Self-replacement of brake hoses on a VAZ 2107

Brake hoses in the VAZ 2107 are made of rubber, and they need to be changed periodically. Over time, they become brittle, the rubber wears out, and the brake fluid begins to leave the reservoir. If you don’t monitor its level, one day you may end up in a situation where the brakes simply fail, and it’s good if this happens on a deserted street. To avoid this problem, monitoring the condition of rubber parts and brake fluid levels should be carried out regularly, regardless of service life.

Replacing brake pipes in a VAZ is a process that you can easily do yourself in the garage, using the advice of professionals.

Replacing main brake pipes in a classic VAZ 2107 2106 2105, video

We do-it-yourself replacement of main brake pipes in classic Lada cars, such as VAZ 2107 2106 2105 2104. The work will be performed on the “six” we all know.
The replacement is being carried out due to the fact that during a previous body repair, one of the main brake pipes was incorrectly secured, as a result of which it constantly rubbed against the cardan. There are no visible leaks, but you yourself understand that the brakes are the most important thing in a car, so such parts require priority replacement, especially since it is not so expensive. To work, you will need an inspection hole or a lift, for ease of work, a standard set of keys, and, if desired, self-made plugs from rubber hoses so that the brake fluid does not leak out. Video of replacing main brake pipes in the classic VAZ 2107 2106 2105 2104:

After replacement, do not forget to bleed the brake system; for this you will need an assistant.

How to change front brake hoses on a VAZ 2107

Good afternoon dear friends. The brake system of any car includes brake lines and rubber hoses. The latter have the ability to “crack” during operation, losing their tightness. If there is no tightness in the system, brake fluid leaks out, which means there will be no effective brakes, resulting in an accident or expensive body repairs.

To avoid this, you need to monitor the condition of the brake hoses. If cracks and breaks are observed on their surface, replace them urgently. Today we will learn how to independently change the front brake hoses on a VAZ 2107 , and a specialist will show on video how to do it correctly, reveal all the secrets and nuances of replacing them using the example of a Lada 2106.

When to change hoses

By regularly diagnosing the system, it is easy to understand when it is time to change spare parts:

1. The appearance of cracks in the braid.

   
   Cracks in the braid
   To see them, just bend it a little. The size of the crack does not matter; even the smallest tear length can quickly lead to serious wear.

2. The appearance of liquid near the tips.
3. Violation of the integrity of the part, the appearance of frayed areas.

   
   Integrity violation

4. If the brake fluid starts leaving the reservoir too quickly.
5. If the car has just been purchased secondhand.

Any of these reasons is a good reason to replace old spare parts with new ones.

Brake hoses

Video diagnostics of flexible brake pipes

Required Tools

1. Special split wrench “8/10” for unscrewing brake pipes
2. Open-end wrench "17"
3. Socket wrenches for “14” and “10” or heads for the same bolts
4. Pliers or round nose pliers

To replace the front brake hoses on a classic, you will need a narrow metal brush to clean the bolted joints from dirt and a rubber cap to “plug” the metal tube. This cap can be taken from the bleeder fitting of the working brake cylinder. We'll talk about how to use it below. I advise you to buy new copper sealing washers in the amount of 4 pieces.

Rules mandatory for compliance with the installation of a new VUT

When installing a new vacuum mechanism, consider the following rules:

• the VUT rod is connected to the brake pedal after placing the device on the fixing pins;
• to perfect the sealing components, lubricate the space between the brake cylinder and the vacuum device with sealant;
• the VUT rod in the VAZ-2109, which affects the main brake cylinder located on the front side of the frame, can move during transportation or installation. Therefore, to check the condition of the product, press it all the way.

How to unscrew an old brake hose

1. Carefully clean with a metal brush all the bolted connections that we will unscrew: the fastening of the brake hose clamp to the working cylinder, the bolt connecting it to the cylinder, the joint between the hose and the brake pipe and their fixing plate. These places are located in the wheel area and serve as an excellent storage area for road dirt and rust. This must be done so that there are no problems when dismantling all these parts.

2. Unscrew the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and instead put on a plastic bag and screw the cap onto the clutch reservoir. This is necessary to seal the brake system. Having done this “trick”, you will not lose much “brake fluid” when replacing the front brake hoses on a classic.

3. Using pliers or round nose pliers, remove the fixing bracket from the junction of the tube and hose. It is needed to prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the fitting.

4. Using a special split wrench set to “10”, unscrew the metal tube from the hose fitting, fixing it with the wrench set to “17”.

Important! When unscrewing the tube fitting, make sure that it does not rotate with the fitting. There is a chance to break it. To prevent this, you need to “soak” the contact area with WD-40 and develop it by slightly swinging the key in the direction of opening and closing. If this does not help, then remove the opposite end of the front brake hose, fix the fitting, and use a key to “17” to unscrew the hose.

Having removed the hose from the metal tube, close its fitting with the cap mentioned above. This will prevent loss of brake fluid.

5. To unscrew the brake hose from the working cylinder, you need to use a “10” key to unscrew the bolt securing the hose clamp from the wheel hub. Remove the fixing bracket.

6. Using a spanner wrench or a 14mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the hose from the brake cylinder.

It is recommended to replace the old copper sealing washers with new ones. You will see them when you remove the fastening bolt from the hose fitting and the working cylinder seat. They seal the joint, so there should be two of them - one on top under the bolt head, the second on the bottom, between the cylinder and the fitting.

Removal is complete; reassembly is done in reverse order. After this, it is recommended to bleed the brake system; how to do this was described in detail in the previous article. We check the connection points for leaks and tighten them if necessary.

Video, replacing the front brake hoses of VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107:

Disassembly and assembly of wheel cylinders

Install the piston assembly with the automatic device on a special device so that the protrusions of the device cover the head of the thrust screw 3 (Fig. 7–17). Using a special screwdriver, turning piston 9, unscrew the stop screw 3 from the piston. Remove seal 8 with support cup 7 and crackers 5 from the screw. Separate thrust ring 4 and thrust screw 3.

How to replace the rear brake hose of a VAZ.

Assemble the automatic device for adjusting the gap between the shoes and the drum and the wheel cylinder itself in the reverse order, taking into account the following:

— tighten the piston thrust screws with a torque of 3.9–6.9 N·m (0.4–0.7 kgf·m); Slot A (see Fig. 7–16) on the rings should be directed vertically upward; deviation from the vertical is allowed no more than 30°. This arrangement of the slot ensures more complete removal of air from the wheel brake drive when bleeding the brake;

— to pre-compress the thrust rings, press the pistons into the cylinder body using a special device shaped like a cylinder with a conical internal hole;

— the force of pressing the piston into the cylinder must be at least 343 N (35 kgf); if the force is less than 343 N (35 kgf), replace the thrust ring;

— when pressing the piston into the cylinder, it is necessary to maintain dimensions of 4.5–4.8 mm and 67 mm (maximum) (see Fig. 7–16) for a free fit of the brake drum;

— before installing parts into the cylinder body, lubricate them generously with brake fluid.

After assembly, check the movement of each piston in the cylinder body. They should move easily within 1.25–1.65 mm. Replace the protective caps 2 last.

Repair of VAZ rear brake cylinder. Budget renovation.

Replacement of rear brake cylinder cuffs of VAZ 2102

How to replace cuffs on a rear brake cylinder

Checking wheel cylinder parts

Pads

• Carefully check the pads for damage or deformation.
• Check the elasticity of the tension springs, both upper and lower; if necessary, replace them with new ones.
• The springs must not have residual deformations when stretched with a force of 343 N (35 kgf) for the lower springs and 411 N (42 kgf) for the upper ones.

Check the cleanliness of the linings, if dirt or traces of grease are found, thoroughly clean the linings with a wire brush and rinse with white spirit, in addition, check for any leakage of grease or oil inside the drum; eliminate the faults. Replace the pads with new ones if the thickness of the linings is less than 1.5–2 mm.

LADA Kalina engine cooling system diagram

Rice. Rear brake working cylinder: 1 — piston assembly; 2 — fitting for removing air; 3 - cylinder body; 4 - thrust screw; 5 - thrust (split) ring; 6 - crackers; 7 - spring; 8 — support cup; 9 — seal (rubber cuff); 10 - piston; 11.protective cap (“boot”)

On the VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106 (since 1986), VAZ-2107 and their modifications, automatic adjustment of the gap in the rear brakes is carried out using split thrust rings 5 ​​(Fig.), pressed into the cylinder.

Therefore, when disassembling, first remove the anthers 11, and then apply light blows with a hammer through a soft metal drift to the piston 10 so that another piston, complete with ring, cuff and other parts 1, comes out from the opposite side.

Then a drift is inserted from the side of the removed piston and the one that was hit first is pressed out. During the operation, the drift should not touch the walls of the cylinder so as not to scratch it. The requirements for cleanliness are the same as when disassembling a VAZ-2101 cylinder (see above).

Then, holding the thrust screw with 4 pliers, using a screwdriver inserted into the slot of the piston 10, we unscrew the parts.

After replacing cuff 9, we assemble the assembly by moistening the parts with fresh brake fluid. The tightening torque of the thrust screw is 0.4-0.7 kgf-M. The pistons are pressed on each side.

When installing in place, ring 5 must be compressed, for which a small clamp is sometimes used.

Remember that the slot on the thrust rings 5 ​​must be directed vertically upward (permissible deviation no more than 30°), otherwise air will not be removed from the cylinder.

After assembling the unit, check the stroke of the pistons. They should move easily by about one and a half millimeters (more precisely 1.4-1.6 mm). If this does not happen, the rear wheels will not release the brakes. Most likely the reason is improper assembly or contamination of parts.

Installation nuances

1. The fitting of the new hose on the caliper side must be screwed on with a special cut-out downwards. Otherwise, it may rest against the brake pipe of the cylinder and break it.
2. If, when dismantling the old front brake hose, the tube fitting was rotated along with the tube, then installation of a new one begins by screwing it to the iron tube. We fix it with a split wrench, and with an open-end wrench we twist the hose and tighten it.
3. We tighten all threaded connections carefully so as not to strip the threads. We clearly get into it and try. They should twist without much effort. If you feel that it is difficult to “go”, then separate them and try to get clearly into the thread again.
4. You need to tighten everything without any hassle, the threads are small, and the metal is fragile, you can tear it off and then nothing will be able to eliminate the brake fluid leak unless you pull the fittings and bolts.

Replacing brake pipes VAZ

The brake system appeared on the first cars. Its presence has become the key to the safety of the driver and passengers. The first brake system did not have a complex mechanism of action and consisted of several mechanical parts that created the necessary friction on the wheel drive for its subsequent stopping.

The second stage in the development of the braking system was the application of the laws of hydraulics. With this method of braking, the interaction between the brake pedal and the working parts of the brake system is carried out using a special fluid called “brake fluid” (or abbreviated as TF). Brake fluid allows you to stop your vehicle more efficiently. In addition, the use of brake fluid softened the pressure on the brake pedal and made driving more comfortable.

For successful circulation of brake fluid from the brake drive system to the working parts, it is carried out through special pipes. Initially, they were made in the form of hoses, but since they were unreliable, they were replaced by another material.

BRAKE PADS PROBLEMS

The parts of the braking system in question have to be changed not only when they wear out, but also when malfunctions occur that are associated with the use of low-quality consumables or too active driving. The following characteristic signs indicate problems with the pads:

• creaking, grinding and other extraneous sounds when braking;
• car skidding when pressing the brake pedal;
• to operate the pedal you have to exert more or less force than usual;
• beating of the pedal when braking;
• after releasing the pedal, it does not return to its original position;
• the presence of black dust on the rims.

EXTERNAL SOUNDS

Modern brake pads are equipped with special indicators that indicate wear of these car parts. The indicator is a metal strip that is attached below the friction lining. When most of the material is worn out, but the pad is still able to decelerate, a characteristic grinding or whistling sound appears when the brake pedal is applied. If the pads are not equipped with such indicators, the presence of extraneous sounds indicates obvious wear of the elements in the brake mechanism and the need to replace them.

Pad wear can manifest itself in different ways, and one of the signs is extraneous sounds when braking.

SKID

If the car skids to one side when braking, then the likely cause is wear on one of the pads. The car can skid until it turns around, even on a dry surface. In addition to the pads, skidding can occur due to scuffing or deformation of the brake discs.

VIDEO: WHY DOES THE CAR PULL TO THE SIDEWAY WHEN BRAKING

Some time ago I was faced with a situation where the car began to pull to the side when braking. It didn't take long to find the reason for this behavior. After a quick inspection of the car's underside, it was discovered that one of the rear brake wheel cylinders was leaking. This caused brake fluid to get on the working surface of the pad and drum, as a result of which the mechanism was unable to perform its function. The problem was resolved by replacing the cylinder and bleeding the brakes. If you encounter a similar situation, I recommend replacing the entire cylinder rather than installing a repair kit, since the quality of rubber products today leaves much to be desired.

INCREASING OR DECREASING PEDAL FORCE

If the pedal has to be pressed unusually hard or lightly, the problem may be caused by worn or dirty pads. If everything is in order with them, then you should check the integrity of the entire brake system for fluid leaks.

VIBRATION

If there is vibration when you press the brake pedal, then a possible reason is that dirt has gotten between the brake disc and the pads, or a crack or chips have appeared on the latter. As a result, parts are subject to premature wear. However, you should be aware that a similar phenomenon is also possible due to problems with the hub or hydraulic cylinders of the brake system.

THE PEDAL IS DOWN

Sometimes it happens that the brake pedal does not move back after being pressed. This indicates that the pads are “stuck” to the disc. This phenomenon can be observed at sub-zero temperatures when moisture gets on the pads. In addition, air may enter the braking system, which requires inspection and subsequent repair or bleeding of the brakes.

RAID ON DISCS

Plaque on wheel rims is black dust, which indicates wear on the pads. If the dust contains metal particles, then not only the pads are erased, but also the brake disc itself. If such a situation arises, you should not delay inspecting the brake mechanism, as well as replacing failed parts.

The appearance of black deposits on wheels can be caused by active driving or natural wear of the pads.

One day I noticed that the front wheel rims were covered with black dust, and it was not road dust. It is no longer known what brake pads were installed at that time, but after replacing them with factory ones from AvtoVAZ, the situation remained unchanged

Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the appearance of black dust is a normal phenomenon, indicating natural wear of the pads.

Design and principle of operation of brake pipes

The car is braked by pressing the brake pedal. The pedal lever acts on a vacuum or any other booster, which creates the necessary pressure on the brake fluid. The liquid compresses and goes into a zone where this pressure is minimal. It enters the brake pipes, through which it is directed to the working parts of the brake system. The fluid puts pressure on the brake pads, causing them to compress. When you release pressure on the brake pedal, the pressure in the booster decreases, and the spring drive of the brake pads unclenches them and sends the fluid back to the booster (the area of ​​least pressure).

The passage of liquid is carried out through tubes made of metal. The tubes extend from the vacuum booster and are laid under the car to the working parts of the brake system. The joints of the tubes are made in the form of threaded connections, which makes it possible to achieve maximum reliability when creating high pressure in the system.

To increase the reliability of the braking system, the pipes are connected diagonally, which allows the brakes to be used if one of the lines fails. So, for example, from the vacuum booster, one tube connects the working part of the brakes of the front left and rear right wheels, and the second tube directs the brake fluid to the front right and rear left wheels. At the junction of all four pipes, a special pressure regulator is installed, which filters out excess pressure from the system so that it does not cause a breakthrough in the lines.

Original and counterfeit spare parts, their differences

The main problem when buying new spare parts is not to buy a fake of dubious quality; to do this, you need to know what distinguishes a quality product from a counterfeit one.

1. Manufacturer. A company that produces high-quality parts has the markings cast along with it, and not just painted on the braid.
2. All symbols and instructions on the packaging must be translated into Russian.
3. Brake pipes from trusted manufacturers are not sold individually; the front ones only come in pairs.
4. Quality spare parts are made from high quality materials. To check, you can try stretching the product. A good one will not deform, but one made of unreinforced rubber will stretch.
5. A hose of proper quality has a double press-fit circuit; counterfeit parts cannot boast of this.

How to distinguish original from counterfeit

How to repair brake pipes

This process requires the car enthusiast to have extensive locksmith skills and the ability to use special tools. Repairs are carried out in cases where it is not possible to replace the damaged line; it involves saving money on the purchase of a new pipe system and extends the service life of the old one.

To carry out repairs you must:

1. Unscrew the damaged tube from the cylinder or brake caliper.

2. After disconnecting, it is necessary to cut off the damaged area using a pipe cutter.

3. Clamp the tube 50 millimeters from the edge of the cut and chamfer the edge of the tube using a drill.

4. Remove all that remains of the chips and insert a fitting intended for connecting the tube to the brake operating mechanism into the cut area.

5. Insert the end of the tube into the special equipment and flare it. The main line that has undergone repairs must be purged with compressed air. And only after this is it installed with a working mechanism or another pipeline system using an adapter.

As for the length of the tube, this parameter depends on the car model. On some cars, the brake pipes have a reserve that allows you to shorten the pipe and reconnect it to the working mechanism. The metal from which the brake tube is made is flexible, so there should not be any difficulties with its position.

Replacement of front brake tubes

To replace the front brake hoses, it is necessary to place the car in a pit and prevent any movement. Then:

1. Unscrew the line fitting. Hold the hose with a wrench to prevent it from turning.

2. Unscrew the brake pipe from the car body. Typically, they are covered with rust, so it is necessary to treat them with WD-40.

3. Unscrew the other end of the fitting from the brake cylinder or pressure regulator.

4. Install a new brake pipe and reassemble all components in the reverse order.

After repair work or replacement, it is necessary to fill in the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Bleeding is mandatory and is needed to squeeze out air bubbles from the car’s brake system.

It is worth noting that in some cars, in order to remove the brake pipes, it is necessary to remove other elements, such as the gas tank. The fact is that the design of many models provides for the passage of brake pipes over these elements and their dismantling is possible only when the latter are removed.

As for the engine compartment, usually everything is quite simple and getting to such elements as the brake pipe is not difficult.

This completes the replacement of the brake pipes. As you guessed, this procedure is not at all complicated and does not require special knowledge and skills from the driver. The only thing that is needed when performing repair work is adherence to a clear sequence of actions and increased responsibility. Because the life and health of passengers and the driver depend on the correct operation of the braking system. Good luck on the roads!

Bleeding the brakes

An important step after replacing parts. If the work was carried out alone, then an assistant will be needed for pumping. He must constantly press and hold the brake while air is removed through the fittings using a transparent hose. On each wheel, the procedure should be carried out until there are no air bubbles left.

Replacing brake hoses on a VAZ 2107 is not difficult; you can do it yourself. It is most convenient to do this on an overpass, or from a garage pit, but it is possible to carry out an emergency replacement on a flat area, although this is very inconvenient. Of course, it is better not to lead to such situations, so you need to regularly check vital spare parts for integrity and performance.

Source

replacing brake pipes on a VAZ 2107 car

Before unscrewing the brake pipe fittings, it is necessary to clean the connections from dirt and apply penetrating lubricant. To unscrew the brake pipe fittings, special wrenches are used that cover the five faces of the fitting and prevent them from being crushed. The operation is illustrated using a brake pipe connecting the brake pressure regulator to the rear brake hose. To perform the work of replacing the brake pipe on a VAZ 2107 car, you will need an assistant, as well as a special 10 mm wrench for brake pipes, a transparent vinyl tube of a suitable diameter, a container for draining brake fluid, fresh brake fluid (see “Operating fluids used on a VAZ car 2107").

Removing the brake pipe from a VAZ 2107 car

1. We prepare the VAZ 2107 car for operations (see “Preparation of the VAZ 2107 car for maintenance and repair”).

2. Using an 8 mm socket wrench, unscrew the screws of the two brackets securing the brake pipe to the underbody of the VAZ 2107 car.

3. Using a special 10 mm wrench, unscrew the connecting fittings securing the brake pipe to the brake pressure regulator (see “Brake pressure regulator of the VAZ 2107 car - check and replacement”) and the tip of the brake hose (see “Rear brake hose of the VAZ 2107 car - replacement” ). 4. Remove the brake pipe.

Installing a tomrose tube on a VAZ 2107 car

1. Install a new brake pipe on a VAZ 2107 car in the reverse order.
2. Fill the brake reservoir with brake fluid and pump the brakes on the VAZ 2107 (see “Hydraulic brakes on the VAZ 2107 - pumping and replacing brake fluid”). 0 0 votes
Article rating

Rear end

There is nothing complicated here, except that the line is longer and it is connected as follows - the longer part of the tube is connected to the GTZ and screwed to the “sorcerer”. Then the “sorcerer” is connected with a short tube to the brake mechanism on the wheel.

Replacement of the rear brake pipe is carried out as follows. If there is an overpass or hole, then you will not need to remove the wheel. First, apply liquid wrench to all threaded connections, then wait a little. After this, use a Phillips screwdriver or other suitable tool to unscrew the screws securing the tubes to the car body. After this, use a suitable wrench to unscrew the two fittings securing the tube to the brake hose and to the regulator. The element is removed and a new one is installed in its place. If the long line to the “sorcerer” is damaged, then the actions are similar, only unscrew the fitting from the GTZ and from the regulator.

After the replacement, you must remember to add brake fluid to the expansion tank to the required level and be sure to bleed the system, since it has taken in air and the braking process will be ineffective. If the front brake pipes on the left were replaced, then there is no need to bleed another line.