Removing, installing, replacing and repairing the clutch on a Lada Granta car


Features of correct adjustment of the unit

Quite often, clutch-related problems are solved by standard adjustments. However, such measures must be carried out based on the recommendations of specialists and experienced car owners. First of all, you need to turn off the engine. After this, just press the pedal several times and listen to the sounds. If no grinding or creaking is heard, then the adjustment continues.

If the Lada-Granta clutch pedal gets stuck or it moves jerkily, then its position needs to be adjusted. First of all, you need to completely squeeze it out with your hand. It is better not to use your foot, as in this case it will be much more difficult to feel minor jamming or, conversely, jerking at the moment when the lever returns to its original position.

If you manage to find out that the pedal twitches a little, then you need to arm yourself with a ruler and determine the distance from the floor to the pedal, or rather, the part that protrudes outward. After this, while continuing to hold the measuring device, the car owner must press the lever and wait until it returns to the same position. If the values ​​on the ruler diverge or the distance is more than 14.5 cm, then in this case you need to make adjustments. It is worth noting that the full pedal travel should not be more than 146 mm. The cable guide cannot move in relation to the fork lever by more than 2.7 cm.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

Manufacturer article numberPrice, rub.)Resource (Thousand km)
Set of wheels LADA 2190-316010001From 310085 — 105
—/— 2190-31601000—/——/—
—/— 302050901—/——/—
—/— 302052223—/——/—
—/— 302052307—/——/—
LADA 21810160118001 clutchFrom 65080
LADA 21090160119000 input shaft guideFrom 75075 — 80
LADA 21010160121500 fork supportFrom 15075 – 95
LADA 21810160120001 plugFrom 80085 – 95
Connecting spring fork and clutch 21010160118800From 35085 — 95

*prices are current as of October 30, 2018.

Recommendations for the selection of parts and components

The vast majority of spare parts are provided by domestic manufacturers. Foreign analogues are 10-17% more expensive. The manufacturing quality of the parts is approximately at the same level.

In order to prevent the purchase of counterfeits, use the services of official representative offices, dealer centers, and authorized service stations.

Lately, ordering parts with their subsequent installation directly in workshops has become popular. The advantages of this choice are professional installation, prompt delivery, and a guarantee.

Lada Granta clutch diagram

List of online stores selling parts (Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kyiv regions)

NameAddress
1."VIN code"VIN-code.rf/
2."Avtopiter"https://www.autopiter.ru/
3."DvizhCom"https://dvizhcom.ru/
4."BaltKam"https://www.baltkam.ru/
5."Elite"https://eshop.elit.ua/
6."Clan"https://klan.com.ua/

Types of faults

All types of clutch malfunctions installed on Grants are divided into the following groups:

  1. The clutch cannot be completely disengaged. The reasons for this type of breakdown lie in incomplete pedal travel, vibrations and possible jamming in the driven disk hub, warpage and distortion in the pressure disk, loose rivets and faulty friction linings. In addition, such a problem is often caused by a malfunction of the drive cable, a breakdown of the compensation mechanism, or disturbances in the mechanism that compensates for the wear of the driven disk linings.
  2. The clutch cannot be fully engaged. This breakdown can occur due to wear of the friction linings or due to their oiling. Other reasons for this malfunction include an oily surface of the flywheel and clutch basket and jamming (or damage) on the clutch drive.
  3. The clutch works with jerks. This violation is caused by oily friction linings, as well as an oily flywheel and clutch basket, a stuck drive and a damaged pressure plate surface.
  4. An increase in noise level when the clutch is engaged is caused by a malfunction of the damper springs.
  5. An increase in noise level during clutch disengagement is caused by a leak from the release bearing, as well as its damage or wear.

As a rule, if the clutch pedal fails and clicking and creaking sounds are detected during its operation, most often you just need to replace the clutch cable. Exactly how this procedure is performed will be discussed below.

Possible faults

Cause of malfunction How to fix
The clutch drives (switching gears is difficult)
Not enough pedal travelAdjust cable tension
Damage (curvature) of the driven diskReplace driven disk
The clutch disc hub is stuck on the input shaftClean the splines; if there is severe wear, replace the input shaft and driven disk
Curvature of the pressure plateReplacing the basket pressure plate
Damage to the friction linings of the driven diskReplace the disc and check for axial runout
Malfunction of the cable tension mechanismReplace the cable
Clutch slipping (the car does not move when the speed increases and the gear is engaged)
Burning or partial (complete) wear of the friction liningsReplace disk
Oily friction liningsClean the linings, replace worn parts, eliminate the cause of oil leakage
Drive jammedReplace faulty elements
Sharp jerks when shifting gears
Disc linings are oilyClean the linings, replace worn parts, eliminate the cause of oil leakage
Drive jammedReplace worn parts
Bent or damaged pressure plateReplacing the basket
Extraneous sounds when turning on speed
Worn or damaged disc damper springsReplacing the drive
Whistle when turning on speed
Worn or damaged release bearingPart replacement

Only the main causes of mechanism malfunction are listed; many indirect factors pointing to the same components and assemblies should also be taken into account.

Replacing the cable

To change the cable, you need to carry out a number of simple operations:

in the car interior (under the panel), the nut that secures the cable to the pedal assembly is unscrewed;

the braid stopper is removed from the pin;

  • use pliers to remove the locking bracket;
  • the pedal axle is removed;
  • the pedal bracket spring is also dismantled;
  • use pliers to pull it towards you and remove the tip stop;
  • the pedal is released from the cable end;
  • the cable sheath seal is removed (in the engine compartment);

  • the tip of the cable connected to the plug must be pulled forward towards you and pulled out of the groove;
  • dismantle the tip driver;
  • remove the guide bushing;
  • pull the Lada Granta clutch cable through the hole between the engine compartment and the car interior.

Before installing a new cable, it must be lubricated. To do this, a little machine oil is poured between it and its shell. Install the new cable in reverse order

It is impossible not to pay attention to the imperfection of the cable tension mechanism. The reason for its squeaking may be:

  • plastic bushing on the pedal;
  • plastic leash;
  • cable (cable and its sheath);
  • gearbox input shaft.

Most of the reasons can be eliminated very simply - you need to lubricate the rubbing parts, for example, with lithol. The same applies to the input shaft - creaking occurs due to lack of bearing lubrication. To lubricate it, you need to get to the fork boot and, pulling it back, generously pump graphite lubricant inside.

The clutch of the Lada Grant remains the same as before. Exactly the same single-disk mechanisms were installed on previous models - Priora, first-generation Kalina, VAZ 2110, 2109, 2108. The plant only partially modified the design, providing it with higher quality parts. Additionally, an automatic cable tensioner has appeared, which in itself is an additional source of malfunctions. This is a fairly old development, and during its use no measures have been taken to eliminate the most common problems. On the contrary, engineers complicated the design by adding additional elements. On the other hand, the Lada Granta clutch is inexpensive to maintain, and you can buy all the necessary spare parts in every car store. Any car owner can replace the Lada Granta clutch with his own hands. Availability and simplicity of design remain AvtoVAZ’s priorities, although quality is not in first place.

The Lada Granta is a popular domestic car that has been successfully sold throughout the Russian Federation and even abroad for many years. Any car has its weak points, and over time, certain components of a complex design may break down. The operating conditions of the car are important. For example, when driving on bad roads or during periods of active use of reagents, car owners have to face a number of problems.

The clutch on a Lada Grant can fail at the most inconvenient moment. Therefore, it will be useful to find out how you can adjust this unit yourself, and when it needs to be completely replaced. Let's take a closer look.

Reviews

Positive
1.Vladimir: I have been successfully using the machine for two years now, there are no comments on the work. Investments are minimal, consumables, filters, oils.
2.Gennady: I ​​attend every scheduled maintenance according to the schedule. The car is in good condition, the technician is carrying out computer diagnostics. Soon the mileage will be 90,000 km, I hope that repairs will occur after 105,000 km.
3.Vasily: at 60,000 km I replaced the cable, it started to creak, I didn’t lubricate it, I bought a new one. There are no more comments, everything works properly.
4.Ignat: I have no special complaints about the car. Of course, Lada is not ideal, but for the budget segment it is the best solution.
5.Dmitry: at 80,000 km I replaced the repair kit for the bushings on the clutch pedal, it started to creak. Additionally, I lubricated the cable. My recommendations to motorists. All work was carried out independently, without the help of service station workers.
6.Kirill: I replaced the clutch at 95,000 km, I think that this is a very good mileage for a domestic car. The installation process is not complicated, I did the work myself. Special thanks to the store manager for recommending quality spare parts.
7.Georgy: replaced the release bearing at 105,000 km, mileage as in the instructions. There are no problems with the engine, the car runs like a watch.
Negative
1.Victor: my bearing fell apart at 50,000 km, it was replaced at a service station. After 10,000 km the cable creaked and was also replaced with a new one. The Granta model is crude, has many flaws, I do not recommend purchasing it.
2.Vyacheslav: over the past six months it has undergone unscheduled repairs twice. Initially, the basket flew off after a problem with the starter.
3.Kirill: despite the manufacturer’s warranty, the clutch basket has already flown for 60,000 km. Contacted the service for diagnostics and repairs. The manufacturing quality is low, the actual service life of the parts is lower than stated.

How is the clutch adjusted?

So, how to properly adjust the clutch? The clutch of the modern VAZ model family has a clutch cable, along with which there are ratchet mechanisms in the structural unit. These cables do not provide for any clearance, which in theory does not imply the need for adjustment. However, the manufacturer insistently recommends performing periodic adjustment procedures on this mechanism.

To perform the adjustment on these cars, including the Lada Granta, you should stock up on a ruler (a caliper is also suitable) and a screwdriver.

The sequence of manipulations looks like this.

Open the hood of the Lada Grant and install the clutch cable in its original position. To do this, move its lower edge forward until it stops. By moving the cable, you can feel the force created by the return spring. We do not pay due attention to this aspect and continue this manipulation. Taking a ruler or the same caliper, we measure the distance. The photo clearly shows the segment to be measured: between the beginning of the fork and the cable lead. For correct measurements, you will need to keep the cable in a stationary and certain position. The ideal measurement result would be 27 mm. When clutch adjustment is required, the actual parameter will differ from the stated standard. To achieve the required value (27 mm), rotate the cable lead. Having completed this action, insert the cable end into the groove of the fork, and then release the retained element

Please note that there is no gap. This completes the procedure. Now let's move on to pressing the pedal multiple times to make sure the unit is functioning correctly

After completing a set of presses, we once again measure the distance along the cable and, if discrepancies appear, perform repeated adjustments.

The need to adjust the cable on Lada Granta, Kalina or Priora occurs regardless of its condition (new or has already spent a certain amount of service life).

When does the need for adjustment occur?

In such cases:

  • when there are jerks from the start that are permanent;
  • when an attempt to engage a gear is accompanied by a blow;
  • if the pedal is stuck.

These are the most striking symptoms indicating the need for adjustment. Ideally, the level of the pedal should coincide with the brake. In this case, the full pedal travel is 125 - 135 mm. Practice shows that the stroke can be exceeded by up to 160 mm.

To properly adjust the pedal assembly, you will need to stock up on two wrenches with suitable parameters.

  1. Loosen the locknut holding the cable. It is located on the engine compartment side.
  2. Now use a wrench to rotate the second locknut to achieve the correct clearance.
  3. Upon completion of the process, be sure to tighten the first nut to the required torque.

We remind you that efforts should be made to achieve a uniform level in the pedal assembly (the author of the video is Time R).

What will happen to the car if you don't adjust the clutch?

If you do not adjust the clutch on the Grant with a cable box in a timely manner, the following problems may arise:

  • Clutch slipping. A similar malfunction occurs due to the lack of free play in the pedal. The transmission of torque from the flywheel and crankshaft to the gearbox and drive axle will be incomplete. The car may not move or drive slowly with the pedal fully lowered. There may be a burning smell.
  • Late response to the pedal. Triggering can be either early or late. When early, the car starts moving as soon as the pedal begins to be released (there is no free play). When it’s late, the car starts moving when the pedal is almost completely released.
  • The clutch does not disengage completely, the friction disc does not separate from the flywheel. The gears will shift with force, and the sound of synchronizer teeth hitting the gearbox gears will sound. Gears may lose teeth.

Gearbox 2181 turned out to be quite good. Engineers have eliminated many of the shortcomings of the previous model. Repairing a gearbox on a Lada Granta is expectedly cheaper than on other cars. Despite the fact that the shortcomings were eliminated in subsequent cars, car enthusiasts had an unpleasant impression of the new box. Other drivers are pleased with the clarity of gear shifting and the reduction in vibrations.

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Replacing the clutch on a Lada Granta takes from 3 to 8 hours. Replacing the Lada Granta clutch is done only with the removal/installation of the gearbox. On some models, to remove the box you need to remove the subframe. It is best to determine what exactly to change: the disk, basket or release bearing after the box is removed.

The decision to replace the clutch on a Lada Granta must be made after diagnostics at a car service center. Some symptoms may be similar to a faulty transmission or gearshift mechanism. On robotic gearboxes (robot, isitronic, etc.), after replacing the clutch, you will need to adapt the grip point. This can be done at our stations.

Cost of replacing a clutch on a Lada Granta:

Replacement optionsPrice
Replacement of clutch Lada Granta, manual transmission, gasolinefrom 4500 rub.
Replacement of clutch Lada Granta, manual transmission, dieselfrom 5000 rub.
Lada Granta clutch replacement, DSG, robotfrom 8000 rub.
Clutch adaptation of Lada Grantafrom 2500 rub.
Removal/installation of Lada Granta subframefrom 3000 rub.

If you notice that the clutch begins to behave differently than before, we recommend that you immediately contact a car service for diagnostics. If you start this moment, then subsequently, in addition to replacing the clutch on the Lada Granta, you will also have to replace the flywheel. And the cost of a flywheel is several times higher than the cost of a clutch kit.

When replacing the clutch, we also recommend replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal and replacing the axle shaft seals

When replacing a clutch, a good mechanic will always pay attention to the condition of the gear selector rod seal. The cost of seals is minimal and it is better to do everything at once without overpaying for the same work in the future

ROPE DRIVE

Despite the simplicity and low price, almost all manufacturers abandoned the rod drive, like on the old box. Today, designs of several rods with complex scenes are used to dampen vibrations on the lever, or a more expensive and convenient cable drive. AVTOVAZ experimented with the latter back at Samara, purchasing parts from. But with the switching mechanism located at the bottom, the performance of such a circuit is problematic, and the price of components was scary at that time. Work on the cable-driven gearbox continued as part of other projects, but the production model could only be realized now.

How to choose a clutch for a VAZ according to your driving style

When choosing a clutch, you need to take into account your driving style.

Calm driving style - low revs, smooth shifts, not harsh acceleration. Suitable kits from manufacturers:

  1. Luk - gears shift smoothly, no jerking.
  2. Valeo - soft clutch for a comfortable ride.

Most motorists drive at medium speeds, occasionally accelerating in traffic. The style is standard. Suitable mechanism from manufacturers:

  1. KraftTech - a coupling for comfortable movement.
  2. Sachs - a tighter device than previous options, suitable for many drivers.
  3. “VIS” is a domestically produced system, manufactured with high quality, and does not tolerate sudden movements.

With a dynamic driving style, sharp shifts and “throwing” of the clutch pedal are possible. The coupling experiences heavy loads, the following kits are suitable:

  1. Pilenga - recommended without metal ceramics. The clutch is hard, to avoid jerking you need to pick up high speeds and shift quickly.
  2. Sachs - suitable for many.

Some motorists prefer a sporty driving style when the mechanism is under stress. The same kits are suitable as for the dynamic style. The clutch will have to be changed more often.

When choosing a coupling, you need to take into account factors: cost, compatibility of the kit with the vehicle model, and operating features of the machine.

Among owners of VAZ cars, it is common to install the entire Sachs kit, except for the release bearing, which is replaced with a factory one.

Hydraulic clutch

Judging by the name of this type of clutch, I think it has become clear to you that in a hydraulic drive all forces, starting from the clutch pedal and ending with the mechanism itself, are transported using such a fluid. It, in turn, is placed in hydraulic cylinders and tubes that connect all the elements necessary in the mechanism. The construction mechanism of a hydraulic clutch is not very similar to a mechanical clutch.

One fairly large disk is located at the sharp end of the drive shaft and a steel casing. The casing is attached to the flywheel. Inside the casing there is a spring with radial petals. They are, let's say, release levers. The control pedal is located on the axis. It is raised to the body, namely to the bracket. The master cylinder pushrod is attached to the clutch pedal via a hinge. The pedal is released when the clutch is disengaged and the gear is changed.

Clutch selection | Topic author: Fumo

I apologize for creating such a topic, I want to know what is better to put? I drive fast, sharply)

Alexey (Bishamon) I change the clutch every year and a half.

Alexey (Bishamon) Alexey, don’t forget to buy a release spring. It is not included in the kit. Price 5 rub. And this is a completely normal clutch. I have two years and the flight is normal.

Alexey (Bishamon) Okay, I’ll take that into account. Thank you!

Alexey (Bishamon) And the mileage is 60 thousand, already changed twice

Artem (Deepa) I drive a Kraft. ok...nothing to compare with yet.

Alexey (Bishamon) There are legends on the internet about the toughness of Craft. When you have the opportunity to compare, let me know.))

Artem (Deepa) Alexey, definitely. but I hope not soon.

Aydar (Sisel) Alexey, I installed craft, for the first two days I couldn’t get going) but then I got used to it) so far everything is fine)

Alexey (Bishamon) Aidar, in the summer when it’s hot, if it starts to twitch, change it right away, don’t wait until the release valve falls apart.

Sergey (Giladah) I changed the clutch myself, I even removed and installed the box myself.. Replacing the clutch in our service costs 4000 rubles. It’s free and high quality (when I was changing it I noticed that the bolts securing the box were not tightened). And how nice it is to drive a car that you made yourself!

Alexey (Bishamon) My clutch constantly jerks in the heat. You change it, drive it for a month and it starts jerking again when you start. Could it be the flywheel?

Alexey (Bishamon) Alexey, these are either springs or a basket. As a result, the clutch still dies from this hammering. Install a normal set, don’t buy Craft or anything cheap. and forget it.

Pavel (Hadasa) is it possible to put the clutch disc from the Niva on the seven? please advise?

Alexey (Bishamon) Pavel, what kind of question? https://avtopasker.ru/catalog/index.php? search=? 4?? 4?? ..

Vlad (Sylvia) people, started the car, turned on the clutch, it fell down and the gear does not engage, and when the car is not started, all the gears work, and every other time the clutch pedal returns when turned on, what is this.

Alexey (Bishamon) Vlad, what did the check and adjustment show? https://car-exotic.com/vaz-cars/vaz-lada-2107-auto-rep.. Although if you say that the pedal has fallen, then the GCS needs to be changed. Didn't change it? . Or look where the liquid leaked.

Vlad (Sylvia) Alexey, ok

Nikolay (Cornell) I drove a craft about 4 years ago, it was hard and the release was either defective, or it was really shitty, it whistled and didn’t run a thousand. Since then I have had a negative attitude towards him. Plus, it’s true that everything was there, the right-handed plastic convenient one was included in the kit, well, to center the disk, I still use it)

Why has the clutch pedal become stiff?

If the car is completely new, then the so-called drive wedge may have occurred. This is the easiest fault that you can adjust yourself. But if we are talking about an older car, then perhaps the problems are more serious and affect the entire unit.

Most often, such problems occur due to poor performance of the diaphragm spring. It is possible that the fork is jamming or the bearing being pressed out is jammed. Cable scuffing often occurs. The driven disk itself may also become jammed.

If the car is in use for a long time, then cracks may appear on the drive fork. You also need to understand that over many years of driving a car, a large amount of dirt could simply accumulate in this unit.

"Lada Granta": how manual transmission works and works

In the manual transmission, all mechanical drives for controlling speed selection have been eliminated and replaced with electric ones. This made it possible to get rid of rods and cables, improve the sound insulation of the interior and place all the drive units of the mechanical elements of the transmission on the gearbox. Only the electronic control unit for controlling the operation of the electric motors in the actuators (actuators) is connected to the joystick in the cabin.

Differences from manual transmission

With a manual transmission, gear changes are initiated by the driver through the rocker or using cables. This requires additional mechanical components that are subject to misadjustment and breakdown, and also contribute to increased noise levels in the cabin.

Robotic gearbox design

The robot box is connected to the passenger compartment by electrical wires, which eliminates noise and vibration and simplifies control, providing two modes of operation - automatic and manual.

Clutch diagram of manual transmission "Lada Granta"

The Lada Granta clutch with a robot gearbox differs from a conventional mechanical one by replacing the drive units (clutch pedal in the cabin and the gear selection mechanism) with electromechanical devices (actuators) mounted on the gearbox housing. At the command of the electronic control unit, they turn on/off the corresponding gears and clutch.

Signs of clutch wear

The following clutch elements on a Grant with a robot gearbox are most sensitive to wear: the driven disc and the release bearing.

Signs of wear on the driven disk appear in a weak response to acceleration when going uphill, if the car does not pick up speed when the engine speed increases. This is the result of the natural depletion of the life of the friction linings from long-term use or from increased loads on them during a sudden start.

Other signs of wear in the clutch mechanism may include:

  • lack of smoothness when switching;
  • noise when switching off;
  • odor appears during short movement under load.

If wear is suspected, the clutch should be checked and faulty elements replaced. Replacing the clutch on a Grant with a robot gearbox will require further adaptation of the robot.

Possible clutch malfunctions

The clutch operates under difficult conditions; its elements may become unusable, preventing normal operation, which means they need to be replaced. Common malfunctions include:

  • wear or deformation of the friction disc;
  • breakage of the diaphragm spring petals;
  • destruction of damper springs;
  • wear of the friction disc engagement splines on the shaft;
  • fork deformation;
  • release bearing wear.

Basic clutch malfunctions

Normal operation can be prevented by oil from the gearbox getting onto the friction linings of the driven disk. If signs of malfunction are identified, it may be necessary to replace the clutch on a Lada Granta with a robot gearbox.

What is clutch actuator adaptation and why is it needed?

Adaptation is the updating of the positioning data of the clutch drive units in the electronic command unit. Due to wear and exhaustion of working elements, their linear parameters change, which must be taken into account by the robot program.

Frequency of adaptation

If the transmission mechanism has not been repaired or replaced, then adaptation is carried out as the transmission parts wear out on average after 15,000-20,000 km, preferably at each maintenance. Aggressive driving may require frequent adjustment of the Lada Granta clutch robot.

Fault indicators

If the transmission warning light comes on or the transmission does not shift correctly, adaptations may be required.

Is there a difference between planned adaptation and after replacing or repairing the clutch?

It makes no difference whether the clutch was replaced on a Grant with a robot gearbox, or whether the adjustment was planned, the algorithm of the procedure is the same. It consists of checking and remembering the positions of the gear shift actuators and clutch operation.

Features of a cable gearbox on the Lada Granta

If you compare the 2180 and 2181 gearboxes, they are very different. In the old box, the driver made a lot of effort to shift, especially on previous generation cars. This was due to the fact that the previous manual transmission was based on rigid rods. A strong vibration emanated from them, transmitted into the cabin from the gearbox.

The transition to cables eliminated a number of design flaws. The gearbox now has a short stroke, making gear shifts faster. The gearbox itself consists of cables, a translator, a switching mechanism, jet thrust and a drive control device. The clutch disc has a larger diameter (215 versus 200 mm).

  • The volume of oil poured into the box has been reduced (to 2.2 l).
  • Different synchronizers were installed in first and second gear, making shifts quite easy.
  • Due to the cables, vibrations and noise have been reduced. The switching itself is now clearer and without extraneous sounds. The gearbox gate on the Granta has also become quieter.
  • The gearbox has become better behaved in winter conditions.

Lada Granta car clutch

The clutch is single-disc, dry, with a diaphragm-type central spring. Located in an aluminum crankcase, structurally integrated with the gearbox and attached to the engine cylinder block.

rice. 1

The clutch housing is connected by six bolts to the engine flywheel. The flywheel has three pins, which, when installing the clutch, fit into the corresponding holes in the housing, centering it. The casing is connected to the pressure (drive) disk by three pairs of elastic steel plates. The complete basket is balanced on a stand, so it is replaced entirely. Replacement of the basket is necessary when there is ring wear on the pressure spring petals to a depth of more than 0.8 mm, as well as when there is significant wear on the surface of the pressure disk or “settlement” of the spring.

rice. 2

The driven disk with a spring-loaded torsional vibration damper is located on the splines of the gearbox input shaft between the flywheel and the pressure plate. The driven disk is replaced if it has axial runout in the area of ​​the friction linings, weakening of the rivet joints, and also if the rivet heads are recessed from the surface of the linings by less than 0.2 mm.

rice. 3

The clutch drive is a cable drive, backlash-free with automatic adjustment of the cable length. A plastic leash is screwed onto the threaded end of the cable, which is inserted into the clutch release fork lever. During the operation of the vehicle, the linings of the driven disk wear out, as a result of which the clutch release fork lever moves forward (as the vehicle moves). Since the cable is connected to the fork lever, the length of the cable must be increased when the linings wear out to maintain normal travel of the clutch pedal. The cable length is changed automatically using a regulator located in the upper end of the cable and connected to the clutch pedal. Therefore, during operation, adjustment of the clutch cable is not provided.

rice. 4

The automatic cable length adjustment mechanism consists of a plastic housing into which a toothed cable tip is inserted and held in the housing by two spring-loaded clamps. The mechanism also includes a spacer sleeve placed on a cable, one end of which fits into the mechanism body.

rice. 5

When the pedal is pressed, the spacer sleeve moves away from the cable sheath bracket and does not press on the mechanism clamps. In this case, the mechanism body is rigidly connected to the cable. If the driven disk linings are not worn out, then when the pedal is released, the bushing only touches the bracket and does not release the clamps - the toothed tip of the cable does not move relative to the body. As the linings wear, the clutch release fork lever with the threaded end of the cable moves forward (in the direction of the vehicle), tensioning the cable. In this case, the spacer sleeve, resting against the bracket, releases the spring-loaded clamps, and the toothed tip of the cable moves out of the housing by the amount necessary to compensate for the wear of the linings.

The clutch pedal is mounted on an axle in the pedal assembly bracket. A clutch release bearing with housing assembly is installed between the clutch release fork and the pressure spring petals. The bearing housing is pressed against the fork legs by a spring clip. The bearing moves freely along a guide sleeve mounted on the clutch housing. When you press the clutch pedal, the cable acts on the clutch release fork lever, which moves the bearing. The bearing presses on the clutch pressure spring leaves, causing the pressure plate to move away from the flywheel, allowing the engine crankshaft and transmission input shaft to rotate independently of each other.

Operating principle of the mechanism

The following main parts are involved in the operation of the clutch assembly:

  • a flywheel rigidly mounted on the crankshaft of the power unit;
  • 2 disks - pressure and driven, making up the friction mechanism;
  • casing;
  • compression springs;
  • bearing;
  • diaphragm spring in the form of concentric arms;
  • fork;
  • hydraulic drive working cylinder, activated when the pedal is pressed.

The most primitive mechanism, which was used in the last century, did not include a hydraulic cylinder, which greatly facilitated the driver’s work.
Instead, there was a mechanical cable drive. The drive disk (aka basket) is bolted to the flywheel and rotates with it. The normal state of the clutch when the pedal is in the depressed position is “engaged”. That is, the crankshaft of the motor and the primary gearbox are connected by means of a disk pressed to the plane of the flywheel by a spring. When you press the pedal, the unit works according to the following algorithm:

  1. Through the brake fluid, the force is transmitted to the hydraulic cylinder, which pushes the fork.
  2. The fork presses on the bearing, and it pushes concentric arms, whose ends rest against the pressure plate.
  3. The ends of the levers are pulled back and release the disk, as a result the connection between the shafts is broken, while the rotating crankshaft does not turn the gearbox gears.
  4. When you need to move away, you gradually release the pedal. The bearing releases the levers, which, under the influence of springs, press on the disk. The latter is pressed against the flywheel by the friction surface and the car moves smoothly forward.
  5. The algorithm is repeated with each gear change.

To make the coupling of the engine and transmission smoother, the clutch device provides several damper springs inside the driven disk. When the friction linings touch the flywheel surface, they compress and further smooth out the transmission of engine power.

What is this?

By the clutch on a Granta car, motorists and service station technicians understand the mechanism that serves to transmit torque and dampen torsional vibrations. When shifting gears, this unit disconnects the motor from the gearbox and then makes a smooth connection. The spare part is located between the internal combustion engine and the gearbox.

Structurally, the part consists of the following elements:

  • Shutdown plug.
  • Flywheel.
  • Driven disk.
  • Pressure disk.
  • Gearbox input shaft.

Clutch failure cannot go unnoticed. If this car part fails, the driver will observe the following:

  1. Incomplete engagement/disengagement of the clutch.
  2. Vibration when turned on.
  3. Noise when turned off.
  4. Jerks when changing gears.
  5. Increasing pedal free play.

If such signs appear, you should visit a service station. Most likely, the car service technician will offer to replace the car part.

Are problems with gearbox operation always associated with an unadjusted clutch?

Mechanical transmission problems do not always indicate a clutch that needs to be adjusted. If the clutch seems to be at fault, check the list above. We will also look at other problems with the manual transmission. Frequent malfunctions are:

  • Gearbox noise. In neutral, this happens when the oil in the box is reduced or contaminated or the bearings wear out. In transmission, the problem may be in the synchronizer, licked teeth and dead bearings. When changing gears, the problem may be an unadjusted clutch, bearings, synchronizer, misalignment of the clutch housing and crankshaft, as well as deformed clutch forks and gearbox.
  • Vibrations. Typical for internal combustion engines with disrupted operation in neutral or when fastenings are destroyed (including self-unscrewing of bolts).
  • Leaking oil. The reason is most often in oil seals, gaskets, excess oil level or deformation of the transmission itself.
  • The gear shifts with difficulty or does not shift at all. The problem here can also be in the clutch, as well as in other factors - contamination, lack of oil, wear of couplings, springs, gears.
  • The transmission turns off by itself. There are many reasons - synchronizers, grooves, springs, spontaneous loosening of bolts and others.

Removing the clutch

Replacing any part begins with dismantling the old one. When performing this manipulation, the car must be placed on a lift, after which the gearbox is dismantled. Then you should mark the marks on the flywheel, and the bolts securing the clutch should be unscrewed; at this time it is recommended to hold the flywheel with a screwdriver. Next, the clutch basket is removed from the engine flywheel together with the driven disk.

The final stage of work is removing the release bearing. First, pry up the ends of the spring holding it with a flat-head screwdriver, and then remove the part from the guide sleeve. Next, the bearing and coupling itself are removed, then the spring that previously held it should be removed.

REQUIREMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS

The new product, which is installed on the “Norma” and “Lux” versions, is based on the same gearbox that appeared on the VAZ-2108 and, with minor upgrades, has survived to this day. Its weaknesses are well known: difficult activation, large lever strokes, smeared switching pattern, low vibration comfort.

Figuring out what and how we could improve, we agreed on one thing: not to touch the gear part, namely the shafts, gears, and synchronizers. Otherwise, huge financial costs will be required to launch a new gearbox into production - without high-precision equipment, it will not be possible to ensure the proper quality of engagement, operation and synchronization.

Pricing factors

Car repairs are always accompanied by certain financial costs. In addition to purchasing a serviceable part, the car owner will have to pay the technician for the service of installing it. Therefore, today many motorists are trying to save money. To do this, they visit a number of sales locations and analyze the price range.

It is not recommended to take the cheapest spare part: most likely, its quality is low. You need to understand what factors influence cost in addition to quality. The price depends on:

  • States.
  • Varieties.
  • Brenda.
  • Originality.
  • Places of purchase.
  • Delivery prices.

The more famous the manufacturing company, the more its spare parts will be sold at a higher price. The better the condition of the part, the higher its value will be.

According to the control method, the clutch is:

  • With hydraulic.
  • With mechanical.
  • With electric.
  • With a combined drive type.

There are spare parts for the switching mode:

  • Constantly closed.
  • Not permanently closed.

Clutches are classified according to the type of friction:

  • Wet (parts operate in an oil bath).
  • Dry (elements operate in air).

Depending on the number of driven disks, a car part can be:

Based on the location of the pressure springs, spare parts are distinguished:

  1. With a peripheral location.
  2. With central diaphragm spring.

According to the condition, a spare part for a Grant can be:

  • New.
  • Old, restored.
  • Used, unrefurbished.

Various companies produce this part. Therefore, we can highlight the clutch on the Grant:

A non-original device is sold under the following brands:

You can buy a clutch for Granta in different places. For example:

What to look for when choosing a clutch

Before determining which assembly kit to buy, it is worth understanding the key parameters by which a product from a particular manufacturer is selected:

  • Reliability depends on the quality of the materials from which the clutch elements are made. This also includes confidence in purchasing an original product and not a fake.
  • Service life - this includes the resistance of materials to wear, overheating and hypothermia, additional features of production technologies, etc.
  • Comfort – characterized by a smooth and soft ride, as well as the presence of high-quality dampers that dampen vibration and vibrations.
  • Operational features - or rather, ease of installation, diagnosis and other interventions.

This can also include cost, but everyone understands that the better the quality of the product, the higher its price. In addition, when trying to buy the cheapest possible product, you can end up buying a fake or an extremely low quality unit.

Clutch cable adjustment

Adjusting the clutch of the Lada Granta begins by pulling the tip of the cable in the direction of its movement, taking into account the fact that the spring will create force. You should fix the cable in this position and start measuring from the front edge of the plastic leash to the clutch fork lever. It should be no more than 2.7 cm. Since there is not much space under the hood, you should prepare a piece of wire of the required length (27 mm) in advance and measure the distance with it.

The leash rotates to adjust the tension. After the clutch cable is released, you need to eliminate the gaps between the driver and the fork lever. Next, the friction clutch pedal is depressed several times - this is how the auto-adjustment mechanism takes its working position - the pedal should not be tight or fall through.

Clutch adjustment methods

All diagnostic and adjustment work is carried out only with the engine turned off. To identify the need to adjust the friction clutch, you should perform a few simple steps. You need to press the pedal two or three times - no knocks, squeaks or other extraneous noises should be heard. The pedal should move freely, without sticking. If you suspect that the pedal is sticking, but visually everything is in order, you should perform the following manipulations:

  • press the pedal all the way by hand;
  • release the pedal, but do it in such a way that your hand is on it, thereby you can feel its movement, but not interfere with its progress.

Clutch kit VALEO VAZ Priora, Granta, Kalina-2, Vesta /cable gearbox VAZ 2181/

  • We guarantee fast processing of your order during business hours (we work from 11-00 to 20-00, Saturday and Sunday are days off).
  • We guarantee reliable packaging of your order (when sending it by Russian Post or transport company).
  • We guarantee the fastest possible dispatch of your paid order (within 2-4 business days after receipt of payment).
  • We guarantee a refund or exchange for another product (with recalculation) within 14 days from the date of receipt of the order (the product must be in good condition, without traces of installation, delivery costs are not reimbursed).
  • We guarantee a free exchange of goods (transportation costs at our expense) if the purchased goods turn out to be defective.

Pickup in Moscow

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APPLICABILITY: VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Lada-Priora), VAZ 2190, 2191 (Lada-Granta), VAZ 2192, 2194 (Lada-Kalina 2), LADA Vesta (LADA Vesta) with cable drive manual transmission VAZ 2181.

is one of the suppliers of clutch discs to the main conveyor
of AVTOVAZ
.
CJSC "LADA Image"
is a subsidiary of
OJSC "AVTOVAZ"
and its official distributor for the sale of spare parts for
LADA
on the domestic market, as well as in near and far abroad countries.
The main strategic goal in the work of CJSC "LADA Image"
is to provide consumers - owners of
LADA
with the necessary range of services for organizing the repair and maintenance of vehicles throughout the territory of their operation throughout their entire life cycle, including original spare parts at competitive prices, available in the right moment in time.


Every second car in Europe and every third car in the world is equipped with a Valeo clutch. With 1,100 kits and 700 individual parts (including hydraulic limit stops and sports clutches), Valeo continues to develop and expand its product range for passenger cars, light and heavy duty trucks, and agricultural tractors.

Valeo parts and kits are produced in 12 factories on 4 continents and sold in 80 countries. Valeo has been producing clutches for over 80 years. Vast experience, high quality and constant innovation provide Valeo with a leading position in this market. The Transmission Systems division produces complete clutch systems, replacement clutch kits and individual components.

The main advantages of Valeo:

— high-quality parts used during factory assembly and offered on the spare parts market;

— unique packaging with film that prevents the movement of parts and protects them during transportation.

Includes: clutch pressure plate, driven clutch plate, clutch release clutch.

Which clutch is better to put on a grant?

This product was chosen by 8 customers

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is a world leader in the production of clutches, which are developed in collaboration with vehicle manufacturers to ensure high quality and optimal adaptation to the characteristics of the vehicle. This clutch ensures full transmission of engine power, reliable transmission, smooth gear shifting, as well as maximum comfort and safety of operation. They can withstand even the heaviest loads and have a long service life.

Product delivery options

Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the shipping method. Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.

Parcel by Russian Post

Available payment methods:

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  • QIWI
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Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.

Parcel by Russian Post 1st class

Available payment methods:

  • Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
  • Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
  • Yandex money
  • QIWI
  • ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg

Express Parcel EMS

Available payment methods:

  • Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
  • Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
  • Yandex money
  • QIWI
  • ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.

Transport companies

Available payment methods:

  • Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
  • Yandex money
  • QIWI
  • ROBOKASSA

Delivery is possible to any locality where there is a representative office of the transport company. Delivery time is from 2 to 10 days. Sending large parcels is approximately 50% more profitable than by Russian Post.

Pickup from our warehouse

Available payment methods:

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  • Credit, installments
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Pickup times must coincide with store opening hours.

Clutch installation

Before you begin assembling the clutch, you must wash each removed element in kerosene. Then apply a thin layer of CV joint-4 lubricant to the guide sleeve of the release bearing and to the spline of the input shaft. The installation of parts begins with the release bearing, after which the clutch fork, spring and bushing are installed.

Next, the clutch is centered using a special frame inserted into the hole in the crankshaft end, while the driven disc is placed on the frame so that the protrusion located on the hub faces the gearbox. After this, the clutch basket is installed, and the centering frame is removed. Then you will need to install the gearbox in its proper place.

After installation, check and monitor the gear shifting process; they should turn on clearly, without clearly audible extraneous crunching sounds. In addition, ideally the car will move away without jerking.

How the clutch works

The clutch device on the VAZ-2190 with a cable box is quite simple and understandable for an experienced car enthusiast. As soon as you open the hood, you will probably immediately notice the cable. It is held in place by a bushing. Pay attention to the clutch fork, through which the tip is passed, and on it there is a special plastic leash. This same leash can be screwed onto the tip or, conversely, twisted. Accordingly, the cable tension will be adjusted.

Before starting work, you will definitely need to dismantle the filter. It will interfere with you, so we will temporarily eliminate it. This is done quite simply:

  1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
  2. Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector, the adsorber and the mounting tie. We don't need all these elements now.
  3. To remove the filter, you will need to remove the supports from the special holes. Now the structure can be removed.

So, when the filter is removed, it’s time to start the main work. Visually locate the plug and tip. Try to pull the tip out using pliers (don't forget to wrap it with electrical tape).

How to replace the cable in the clutch mechanism?

How to properly replace a clutch cable? Below are detailed aspects of the instructions to successfully replace the cable.

  1. First, we begin to unscrew the cable nut from the bracket, which is located under the dashboard. We perform this action using the key set to “8”, after which access to dismantling the bracket stop appears.
  2. We disconnect the locking bracket, which is located on the “finger”.
  3. Next, remove the body of the compensation device (use a screwdriver).
  4. We remove the fluoroplastic bushing from the pedal pin.
  5. We visually monitor the assembly element for wear. If such “artifacts” are present on the surface of the bushing, then we definitely replace it by pre-treating it with grease.
  6. We dismantle the cable seal, which is mounted in the technological hole of the frontal shield of the body (in the photo it can be seen from the engine compartment).
  7. Pull the cable end as you move until it is removed from the fork groove.
  8. Using the key “17” we “defeat” the nut by means of which the cable tip is held on the corresponding bracket of the transmission unit. To prevent the tip from turning, we use an additional key.
  9. Now we proceed to dismantling the cable end, after which we remove this element from the hole. The cable itself can also be removed.
  10. Having completed the indicated manipulations, we begin the installation of a new unit.
  11. First, we pass the cable into the previously designated hole in the front shield.
  12. We treat the bushing with a special compound and fix the wear compensation element on the corresponding pin.
  13. Now we attach the cable directly to the pedal and return the previously removed seal to its place.
  14. We move on to installing the tip on the LADA Granta transmission bracket. Screw the retaining nut with the required torque (do not overdo it).
  15. We remember the need to tighten the leash.
  16. We continue the installation procedure by moving the lower tip in the forward direction until a feeling of stop occurs.
  17. We hold the tip in the designated position and at the same time measure the distance that was illuminated by us earlier (more specifically: in the “leash-fork” section). If the parameter is incorrect, rotate the leash until the optimal value appears.
  18. We remember the need to lubricate the body of the leash before installing it in the knot. The surface in contact with the fork must be lubricated.
  19. The final action is to press the pedal to its full value multiple times. Then we again make a control measurement in the “fork – leash” sector and, if it deviates from the regulations (27 mm), we make a re-regulation. This completes the clutch cable replacement.

Signs of clutch wear

SignCause and remedy
Incomplete engagement of the clutch (slips)Replacing discs, cleaning clutches
Incomplete shutdown (leading)Prevention of the clutch mechanism
Periodic jerksClutch cable wear, clutch replacement
Vibration, beating when shifting to higher gearsThe flywheel is bent, the gripper teeth are worn out. Replacing the flywheel and related consumables
Noise, creaking, grinding noise when activatedDamper spring wear, replacement with a new one, drive lubrication
Pedal free play is increased, exceeding 2 -3 mmTensioning the cable, replacing with a new one
You can hear the smell of burnt friction liningsDismantling the clutch block, replacing worn elements
Increased fuel consumptionFlywheel worn, teeth damaged
Reduced acceleration dynamicsReplacing clutches

Why is the pedal hard on the new clutch?

If a car owner purchased a new clutch kit for a Lada Granta, then he may encounter such a problem. The fact is that many people prefer to save money and purchase spare parts from Chinese manufacturers. Those, in turn, deliberately increase the stiffness of the leaf spring. Why is this being done? Everything is elementary. Such manipulations are carried out in order to increase the working life of the unit, which itself has worse characteristics compared to factory analogues.

Therefore, when replacing the clutch on a Lada Grant, it is worth purchasing higher quality parts. It is better to buy all elements from the manufacturer.

Friction clutch device

On the Lada Grant, the manufacturer installs the same clutch as on the Lada Kalina. The mechanism consists of a flywheel with a basket attached to it. The latter’s task is to continuously press the disk covered with friction material: this is how torque from the engine is transmitted to the transmission. A clutch cable means that when you press the pedal, the cable connected to the clutch fork is tense, the paddles stop pressing on the disc, and torque from the engine is not transmitted to the gearbox.

The Grant clutch has a disc that rubs against a central spring in the shape of a diaphragm. It is housed in a special aluminum crankcase and is matched to the gearbox in a single housing mounted directly on the cylinder block. For clarity, you can see a detailed drawing of the device.

Lada Granta clutch device

  1. Drive cable.
  2. Outer sheath of the cable.
  3. The lower end of the cable sheath.
  4. Dust jacket.
  5. The leash is metal.
  6. Fork bracket.
  7. Bearing bushing.
  8. Release bearing.
  9. Frame.
  10. Diaphragm spring.
  11. Disk (main).
  12. They are flying.
  13. Friction material bearings on the disc.
  14. Disco (slave).
  15. Shock absorber spring.
  16. Rotating vibration damper.
  17. Disc-hub (driven).
  18. Central source.
  19. End of the cable.
  20. Automatic cable tensioner housing.
  21. Sleeve.
  22. Securing the cable sheath.
  23. Pallet (trolley).
  24. Gearbox input shaft.

On the Lada Grant, the clutch does not require additional adjustments during its entire service life, as written in the car’s operating instructions.

Cable

To make sure that the clutch cable on the Lada Grant requires repair or replacement, it is enough to carry out a simple check. To do this, you need to depress the pedal and quickly release it. The lever should return to its original position quickly and without any vibration. If it jerks and does not go smoothly, then the problem is guaranteed to be in this part of the clutch.

More detailed diagnostics can also be performed. To do this, the cable must be disconnected. It is also a good idea to see how easily it moves across the shirt. Sometimes it is enough to add a little lubricant to it.

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