How to change the clutch of a VAZ 21099 carburetor

Clutch disc assembly

The clutch is one of the components of a car's transmission. When this system breaks down, further movement becomes difficult, sometimes the car stalls, and sometimes it simply does not move when you press the accelerator pedal. Let's look at how to diagnose and replace clutch elements of a VAZ 21099 car with your own hands.

Clutch system failures are felt instantly, here is a list of the main symptoms.

When driving uphill, when you press the gas pedal, the car does not move, despite the ever-increasing engine speed.
When driving in a straight line, acceleration time increases significantly, the engine often overheats, and fuel consumption increases.
When stopping, pressing the brake and clutch pedals simultaneously will stall the engine.
It is difficult and crunching to switch gears on and off when the car is moving. When the engine is off, they switch without difficulty.
In the morning, when you try to start the car, the starter has difficulty turning the flywheel, despite the clutch pedal being depressed, and after starting, the engine runs hard and stalls after a while.
There is a noise when you press the pedal.
When changing gears, the car makes a jerk, and sometimes the engine stalls after it.
The clutch release pedal is difficult to press.
Full pedal travel exceeds 16 cm.

Adjusting and replacing the clutch on a VAZ 21099 car

When driving uphill, when you press the gas pedal, the car does not move, despite the ever-increasing engine speed.
When driving in a straight line, acceleration time increases significantly, the engine often overheats, and fuel consumption increases.
When stopping, pressing the brake and clutch pedals simultaneously will stall the engine.
It is difficult and crunching to switch gears on and off when the car is moving. When the engine is off, they switch without difficulty.
In the morning, when you try to start the car, the starter has difficulty turning the flywheel, despite the clutch pedal being depressed, and after starting, the engine runs hard and stalls after a while.
There is a noise when you press the pedal.
When changing gears, the car makes a jerk, and sometimes the engine stalls after it.
The clutch release pedal is difficult to press.
Full pedal travel exceeds 16 cm.

Why do you need clutch adjustment?

If you do not adjust the pedal travel in a timely manner, this can ultimately cause serious damage. At best, expensive repairs will be required, and at worst, the main unit will have to be replaced. Increased pedal travel is accompanied by partial activation of the system. In this case, the disk remains in contact with the surface of the engine flywheel. Insufficient stroke does not ensure full engagement of the driven disk. Therefore, the so-called slipping occurs. In other words, a certain part of the torque is lost.

Diagnostics of the clutch system operation

To perform self-diagnosis, you will need a ruler. The main signs of the need to adjust the system may be characteristic jerks or impacts when the car starts to move, the pedal sinking, or the presence of noise when the pedal is pressed and the clutch is activated. It is very easy to check the functionality of the system. To do this, perform the following operations:

Turn on the engine. After warming up, slowly release the pedal and start driving. If the car starts moving immediately when the pedal is released, this may indicate that there is not enough free play between the elements of the clutch system.

In the case when the car starts to move only when the pedal is fully released, this means that its travel exceeds the norm. When the movement occurs with a lag after the pedal returns to its original position, this means that the stroke is below normal.

Now you can start measuring. The exact standards for a specific car model are indicated in the technical documentation. For domestic cars, the norm is the distance from the floor to the edge of the pedal within 160 mm. If the value does not match, an urgent adjustment must be made.

Causes and troubleshooting

Installing the disk on the machine

Symptoms 1 and 2 indicate critical wear of the clutch driven disc or contamination of it with engine oil that has leaked from the cylinder block or gearbox due to leaky seals of these units. To more accurately determine the cause, just look into the engine compartment and look through the window on the clutch housing cover. If there are traces of oil on the flywheel teeth, then the seals will have to be replaced. If there are no traces of oil, the clutch driven disc needs to be replaced.

Symptoms 3, 4 and 5 indicate incomplete shutdown of the mechanism. This occurs when drive parts break, driven and pressure disks are deformed, the cable breaks and the VAZ clutch drive is incorrectly adjusted.

Symptom 6 indicates a breakdown of the damper springs or wear of the release bearing. Symptom 7 indicates that the wheel hubs are jammed on the gearbox shaft splines. They just need to be removed, cleaned and lubricated. Symptoms 8 and 9 indicate that the cable needs to be replaced and the drive adjusted. Replacing the clutch assembly is also carried out after purchasing a used car.

Adjusting the VAZ 21099 clutch drive is a very simple procedure, it is done like this.

First you need to take a ruler and measure the distance the pedal moves when pressed. If it is less than 12.5 or more than 13.5 cm, we proceed to adjustment.
We look into the engine compartment, remove the battery, find the place where the cable passes through the gearbox bracket (next to the ignition coil). It is secured with adjusting nuts on both sides of the bracket.
If we need to increase the pedal travel, turn the nut located clockwise, located closer to the car interior. If, on the contrary, it is necessary to reduce the stroke, turn clockwise the nut that is closer to the front bumper.
Again, measure the distance with a ruler: if it is within the recommended limits, the adjustment is complete.

Replacing the cable is also not a very difficult task.

Open the hood and unscrew the adjusting nuts.
Remove the cable from the gearbox bracket.
Remove it from the clutch fork.
We move into the interior, knock the lock washer off the pedal pin and remove the cable end.
We take out the rubber gasket from the front panel from the side of the engine compartment and take the tip out.

The cable has been removed, now we install the new one in the reverse order. After installation, adjustment is required again.

Clutch malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Replacing the release bearing on a VAZ 2109

A car is a whole system, but it is fully studied by man and each symptom of a malfunction corresponds to the rules for elimination. Below are almost all the causes of clutch malfunctions and how to eliminate them.

Increased noise when turned on

If there is increased noise when the clutch engages, this indicates wear or damage to the release bearing. There may also be a grease leak from the release bearing. The solution is to replace the bearing (step-by-step instructions for the process are given below).
Increased noise when the clutch is engaged can also be caused by a breakdown of the damper springs that make up the clutch driven disc. In this case, you will have to replace the driven disk itself.

Jerks

If jerking is observed when shifting the clutch, then the friction linings may have become oiled. Remedy: Thoroughly rinse the surfaces of the linings with a special liquid and be sure to replace worn gearbox and engine seals.
Jerking can be caused by jamming in the clutch release drive. To eliminate this problem, you first need to find the reasons that contribute to the jamming. Then replace these same parts.

Clutch slipping

If the clutch does not engage fully, then we may be talking about increased wear or burning of the friction linings. The solution is to replace the linings.
This can also be caused by oiling of the same linings. The elimination method is the same as for regular oiling - rinsing with white alcohol and replacing the seals.
The clutch may slip due to damage or jamming of the drive. In this case, you will need to again find the parts that contribute to the jamming and replace them.

Clutch leads

If the clutch does not slip, but moves, this may indicate insufficient pedal travel. By adjusting the clutch release drive, the malfunction can be eliminated.
The clutch can also jam if the driven disc is warped. In this case, the disk is either replaced or straightened.
A stuck HP hub can also cause the clutch to slip. You just need to clean the splines and rinse them with alcohol. If the splines themselves are very worn, the input shaft should be replaced.
If the pressure plate is skewed or warped, replace the clutch housing.
If the rivets are loosened or the friction lining is broken, the clutch will again not engage completely. In this case, the linings are replaced or the runout is checked.
The performance and functioning of the clutch cable may be impaired. The cable is replaced and everything starts working as before.

How to change the clutch on a VAZ 21099?

The clutch is one of the most important parts of a car. Without it, the car will not be able to move. That is why replacing the clutch on your vehicle is a procedure that needs to be taken very seriously.

This article is intended for those who prefer to repair their car themselves. Fortunately, the VAZ 21099 has a simple design and any car owner can replace the clutch on their own if they have the necessary tools and detailed instructions. In this article we will figure out how to change the clutch disc on a VAZ 21099 even without using a pit.

Symptoms of malfunction

The clutch release bearing itself will tell you that its life is already at its limit or it has completely failed. Therefore, your task is to monitor the behavior of the car and promptly respond to emerging problems.

Sign of breakdown

Peculiarities

The clutch pedal becomes hard to press

Initially, this only causes a certain discomfort, since you have to apply more force to change gears. But this phenomenon should not be ignored. Bearing needs to be replaced

Difficulty engaging first and reverse gears

This indicates that the bearing's life is gradually ending, and you urgently need to take action. If you don't do this, you will soon be unable to engage any of the gears in your transmission.

The car doesn't pull

There is a loss of efficiency and performance of the box. Consequently, it is not possible to change gears correctly and quickly. This makes maneuvers, overtaking and a banal increase in speed more difficult.

This happens occasionally at first, and therefore almost every time you change gears. This symptom clearly indicates that it is time to send the car to a service station or garage for repairs.

Old and new VP

If the release bearing is not replaced in a timely manner, the gearbox will soon fail, the clutch will not work, and this will lead to dire consequences.

Consequences of wear

If you have encountered such a phenomenon as wear of the clutch release bearing, then you probably often drive your own VAZ 2109. It is time and the many kilometers traveled that lead to such breakdowns.

If the bearing is not replaced in time, this will result in the following consequences:

Any subsequent trip may be the last for the car;
The clutch disc will overheat, which will lead to destruction of the lining;
In addition to replacing the bearing, you will have to replace the entire clutch disc;
It is not uncommon for the clutch to fail. If you hear an incomprehensible noise coming from the clutch system, then there is a problem with it.

Signs of a malfunctioning clutch system

When a car is driven on a road with an incline, the car does not climb up the road, despite the car's engine speed constantly rising.
Increased speed when driving in a straight line, increased fuel consumption, engine overheating, increased fuel consumption.
If you press the clutch and brake pedal, the engine will stall.
If the engine is running, it is quite difficult to change gears. Such problems do not arise with the engine turned off.
During a cold start, it is difficult for the starter to turn the flywheel, although the clutch is intact. It is also difficult for the engine to run and stalls.
When you press the clutch pedal, extraneous sounds may occur.
When changing gears, the car may jerk or the engine may stall.
Depressing the clutch pedal may be difficult.
The clutch pedal travel exceeds normal (14 centimeters).

These causes indicate too much wear on the clutch disc or contamination of the working surface with oil. Inspect the disc as well as the flywheel. If they have traces of oil, the seals need to be replaced. If you do not see any traces of oil, be sure to replace the clutch driven disc with a new one.

Signs of a faulty clutch

Indicates a malfunction of the clutch or its drive:

Difficulty shifting gears;
large force required to depress the pedal;
clutch slipping. It is expressed in the fact that as the engine speed increases, the speed does not increase;
pressing the pedal is accompanied by noise from the gearbox;
moving away is accompanied by strong shaking of the car.

It is impossible to predict the breakage of the clutch cable tip, but, as a last resort, you can move off simply by starting the engine with the starter while first gear is engaged, and you can switch from speed to speed without disengaging the clutch.

How to change a clutch disc

The clutch replacement process is quite lengthy, so you need to stock up on time and patience.

To replace the clutch, you must first remove the gearbox.

First of all, remove the crankcase protection and unscrew the gearbox mounting bolts.
Remove the negative wire from the clutch housing.
Using two wrenches, remove the clutch cable from its bracket.
Disconnect the block from the wire from the starter contact.
Remove the starter from the gearbox by unscrewing the three nuts.
Remove the gear shift system drive end.
Disconnect the speedometer and gearbox drive cables.
Remove the contact with a wire from the reverse indicator switch block.
Loosen the nut securing the arm to the suspension.
Unscrew the three bolts that secure the braces to the body.
Remove the ball joint nut cotter pin.
Remove the ball joint.
Remove the CV joints. Pull them aside.
Unscrew the bolts that secure the clutch shield and also dismantle it.
Unscrew the three bolts and the crankcase mounting nuts.
Install suitable wooden beams on the fenders and place a block on top to hang the engine.
The block should rest on the bars and nothing else.
Attach the engine to a block that has a bolt with a hook. For this procedure, it is allowed to use rope or wire.
Unscrew a couple of nuts securing the rear engine support to the body.
Unscrew the nuts securing the engine to the gearbox.
When removing the gearbox, first move the gearbox horizontally, otherwise the input shaft may be damaged.

Please note that this method is the most convenient, since it can be used to remove the gearbox without a hoist or hoist. This may only require a couple of jacks.

A dirty box will need to be cleaned of contaminants that appeared during operation.

Now that you have clear access to the clutch mechanism, you can remove it.

Replacing the disk yourself

How to adjust a hydraulic clutch

It should be noted right away that on front-wheel drive cars, replacing a disc is a little more difficult than on classic models. In addition, different brands and models of cars have their own nuances for removing and installing the clutch. First you need to read the instructions and recommendations for changing the clutch yourself. It would be a good idea to consult with experts.

When replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2109, there is no need to completely dismantle the gearbox, drain the oil, remove it completely, etc.

How to change a clutch in a garage

So:

First you need to hang the front of the car on tripods.
Next, the front wheels are removed.
It is detached from the gearbox and removed from the bracket.
You also need to disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox.
After this, the mounting bolts that secure the ball joints and steering knuckles are unscrewed.
Next, you need to loosen the rear left trailing arm fixation.
Carefully remove the mounting bolts of the extension bracket on the left, after which the lever rotates 90 degrees.
A “mass” can be attached to the gearbox, which is also dismantled.
The lower flywheel protective cover is unscrewed.
The engine mount on the left side is turned away.
The engine mount located at the rear is removed from the body, this also applies to the gearbox drive clamp.
The drive is removed from the gearbox.
The gearbox mount is unscrewed from the engine.
The gearbox is removed from the engine and will hang on the drives.
The clutch is unscrewed, in some cases it is the clutch basket.
The release bearing is replaced.
Using a convenient mandrel designed for centering such disks, we replace the driven disk.
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

In practice, everything will not happen as quickly as in theory, especially for beginners. Today, thanks to videos and photos, you can replace almost any part with your own hands, and you don’t have to contact a car service center. Detailed instructions will help you easily dismantle and properly secure the clutch disc.

It is important not only to strictly follow the recommendations, but also to the quality of the purchased spare part. Among the wide variety, you must first of all understand that the price must correspond to the quality

How to install the clutch disc correctly

Remove the six bolts from the clutch basket using an eight-millimeter wrench. Be careful not to strip the bolt heads.
Remove the clutch cover along with the driven disc.
Check its condition. The driven disk must be free of cracks and deformations. Otherwise it needs to be replaced.
Check the working part of the flywheel and release mechanism. They must be free of chips, burrs and deep marks. If there are such deformations, then the flywheel and release mechanism need to be replaced.

After inspection, you need to assemble the clutch disc. Pay attention to how to correctly install the clutch disc:

It is installed in the opposite order, but the less protruding part should face the flywheel.

Also, when installing a new clutch disc, it is better to use a centering mandrel. If it is not included in the kit, then purchase it. Fortunately, it is not expensive at all.

Source

Replacing the disk yourself

Clutch disc basket VAZ 2109

When replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2109, there is no need to completely dismantle the gearbox, drain the oil, completely remove the VAZ CV joints, etc.

How to change a clutch in a garage

First you need to hang the front of the car on tripods.
Next, the front wheels are removed.
The clutch cable is detached from the gearbox and removed from the bracket.
You also need to disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox.
After this, the mounting bolts that secure the ball joints and steering knuckles are unscrewed.
Next, you need to loosen the rear left trailing arm fixation.
Carefully remove the mounting bolts of the extension bracket on the left, after which the lever rotates 90 degrees.
A “mass” can be attached to the gearbox, which is also dismantled.
The lower flywheel protective cover is unscrewed.
The engine mount on the left side is turned away.
The engine mount located at the rear is removed from the body, this also applies to the gearbox drive clamp.
The drive is removed from the gearbox.
The gearbox mount is unscrewed from the engine.
The gearbox is removed from the engine and will hang on the drives.
The clutch is unscrewed, in some cases it is the clutch basket.
The release bearing is replaced.
Using a convenient mandrel designed for centering such disks, we replace the driven disk.
Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

Any car sooner or later needs repairs, and if the gearbox becomes difficult to engage, most likely the problem lies in a faulty clutch. Replacing it on VAZ cars is not a difficult job, but quite labor-intensive, and requires certain metalworking skills.

Replacing the VAZ 2109 clutch with your own hands

If, when starting the engine, noises are heard and vibrations appear, “working jerks” are felt, the pedal stroke has increased, the dynamics of the car have changed, the gasoline consumption has increased, most likely the VAZ 2109 clutch needs to be replaced. Most often, the reason for this is violation of the rules for using the vehicle. For example, the driver likes to start with a slip, or he had to get out of a snowdrift. One of the parts of the unit may also fail. For example, a release bearing. When it "flies" a strong "squeal" is heard. The result is clutch failure.

Replacing the clutch at home

Clutch basket VAZ 2109

Before starting to replace the clutch, it is necessary to ensure all conditions for this operation. First you need to raise the car on a jack or lift. This way, you can better see all the damaged parts. After this you need to:

Remove the exhaust pipe clamp. It comes off very easily. However, if it has never been removed before, you will have to lightly hit it with a hammer from the back side.
Disconnect the driveshaft.
Remove the rear flange.
Unhook the starter (see Repairing the VAZ 2109 starter yourself - an opportunity to save a lot of money). This operation will become available only after all the bolts holding it are loosened.
You need to start removing the gearbox handle.
However, first of all, you should disconnect the beard by unscrewing the 3 bolts that hold it in place.
Remove the rubber band and ring.

After this you can remove the handle.
Before you begin removing the clutch, you must unscrew all the bolts that secure it to the engine.

Clutch basket for VAZ 2109

Unscrew the speedometer cable (see VAZ 2109: how to properly repair the speedometer). Remove two bolts.
Unscrew the traverse. After this, you can easily remove the box.
When all the bolts are unscrewed, you can remove the basket.

You need to unscrew the bell.
It is necessary to clean the gaskets with a knife to remove excess sealant.
Pull out the oil seal. Clean it and put it back in place.

Insert disc.
Clean the entire surface and spray with degreaser. This manipulation is necessary so that the sealant fits well and then holds the gaskets.

Clutch basket for VAZ 2109

Apply sealant and install gaskets.

Put on the bell.
Remove the clutch bearing (you can remove it using pulling movements). Put a new one in its place.

Put the gearbox in place.
Pour in the oil.

Clutch adjustment

You can adjust the clutch as follows:

Loosen the lock nut so that the adjusting nut can move.
Using the tension nut, slightly tighten the cable (the car should move forward).
To control the tightening, you can use the clutch pedal.

If these steps do not fix the clutch, then there is another problem. Perhaps the clutch cable itself needs to be changed.

Tools required for repairs

To replace the VAZ 2109 clutch basket you need to prepare the following tools:

standard set of keys;
jack.

Do-it-yourself repairs are quite advisable, since the price for replacing a VAZ 2109 clutch as of March 3, 2022, on average in car services is 3.2 thousand rubles.

But self-repair is quite accessible even without an assistant, and without completely removing the gearbox. The principle of repair and the sequence of work are identical for models 2108-2115, so we suggest you see how such dismantling is performed on a VAZ 2114:

Clutch pedal adjustment

Periodic adjustment of the VAZ 2109 clutch pedal is carried out for the following reasons:

When driving on a non-adjustable clutch pedal, subsequent repairs are possible, because exaggerated energy costs for incorrect operation of the mechanism will cause malfunctions of other components of the car.
Due to improper functioning, the clutch pedal periodically does not function. This leads to the fact that the pressure plate of the unit is forced into “engagement” with the motor flywheel, as a result of which they are subject to accelerated wear.
If the pedal stroke is insufficient, the vehicle slips, i.e. the required torque of the wheel pair is lost.

To carry out diagnostic work on adjusting the clutch pedal, you need to use an arithmetic ruler to measure the length of the pedal stroke to the floor. If it does not correspond to 16 cm, then adjustments are necessary.

Signs of incorrect operation of the clutch mechanism: there is no possibility of a smooth start from a standstill, movement from a standstill is accompanied by jerks and jolts, when changing gears the transmission makes increased noise, the pedal of the mechanism falls to the lower position. In practice, it turns out this way: if the vehicle began to move from the moment the pedal began to be lowered, then the free play does not correspond to the required value. When the pedal is completely released, the vehicle does not move, which means there is no free movement in the car.

Clutch pedal adjustment:

Unscrew the nut located under the clutch pedal.
Tighten the locknut located below until it stops.
Next, screw in the fasteners located under the clutch pedal.
We tighten the rubber washer to the clutch fork as far as possible.
To increase the pedal stroke, you need to screw the fastener onto the tip. To reduce the pedal stroke, you need to unscrew this fastener. The VAZ 2109 clutch pedal is adjusted until the limit of 12-13 cm is reached.
After completing the pedal adjustment operations, you need to: depress the pedal three times, measure the length of the pedal stroke, adjust the operation until the required stroke length is achieved.

To adjust the hydraulics you need:

1. Remove the spring from the mountings of the working cylinder and the clutch fork. 2. Adjust the fasteners located on the clutch cylinder rod. 3. The recommended free play value is 0.5 cm.

Often, a large pedal stroke depends on the height of its location from the driver's floor, and this creates certain difficulties. To adjust the height, a series of simple plumbing operations and a wrench set to “12” are required:

We find two fasteners on the steering column shaft, one is a thrust screw that limits the height adjustment position, the second is a lock nut that changes the movement of the pedal.
Unscrew the stop screw.
We give it rotation until the pedal movement normalizes.
Screw in the locknut.

If slippage is observed after adjusting the clutch, then the following operations must be performed:

Remove the stem locknut.
Move it until there is no free movement.
Return the rod one full turn.
Determine whether the clutch has free play.
Test the operation of the transmission gears. If there is an incomprehensible noise, you need to perform the above operations again.
Screw in the locknut.

Order of Operations

To carry out repair work, you need to place the car on an inspection hole, put it on the handbrake, disconnect the negative terminal to de-energize the on-board network, and remove the engine mudguard. Now you can start disassembling:

Install a jack that will temporarily replace the front pair of wheels. You need to unscrew the nuts on them, remove the chassis and put them aside.
To remove the contact part of the ball joint from the hub, you need to unscrew the bolts.
Instead of the 2 upper conventional bolts, you need to install cylinder head fasteners.

Now you can remove the starter; it is attached to three nuts that need to be unscrewed.

At this stage it is necessary to install a jack under the engine. After this, the side motor support is detached.

After this, you can disconnect the rear engine mount and unscrew the gearshift linkage.

The protective cover must be removed from the clutch.

The box is secured with several bolts; first you need to unscrew the front one.
Now the transmission is accessible, the rear nut is unscrewed first.
The gearbox bolts are located on the left wing side; they need to be unscrewed until they stop and the gearbox should be removed. It is important to ensure that the end of the assembly rests on the lever extension. This will create a gap that will allow you to remove the clutch.
Disassembly is complete. At this point, the guide for the clutch remains. It needs to be thoroughly lubricated. After this, you can put the release bearing on the guide.
Subsequent operations are performed in the reverse order of the above steps. Important! There is no need to rush while completing the work. All operations are performed consistently and calmly. Make sure that after assembly there are no “extra” spare parts left.

Which clutch bearing should I install?

The original clutch bearing number is 2108 1601182.

Pilenga PC-P 2108 — 360 rub.
Luk 500 0439 20 — 1156 rub.
Fenox TP2116C3 — 345 rub.

We remove the “negative” terminal from the battery “4”, remove the connector from the mass air flow sensor (MAF) “2”, loosen the clamp securing the corrugation to the MAF “3”, remove the air filter housing “1” from the car.

Remove the clutch cable from the clutch fork. Loosen the two nuts securing the cable to the bracket on the gearbox.

Remove the clutch protective cover. Disconnect the ground wire and the top dead center sensor from the clutch housing. Disconnect the wires from the reverse light switch. Drain the oil.

Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the bracket to the body. Unscrew the nut securing the arm extension.

We jack up the car. We remove two bolts “1” and disconnect the ball joint of the suspension arm from the steering knuckle. Unscrew the nut “2” securing the brace to the suspension arm, and remove the longitudinal brace together with the lever.

We remove the wheel, unscrew the hub nut and unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the steering knuckle, then remove the CV joint from the bearing hole.

Having rested the pry bar against the gearbox housing, we press the internal drive joint from the side gear, to do this we sharply hit the body of the internal joint with a hammer. We knock out the hinge from the side gear.

Mounting a ball joint without front wheel drive.

Loosen the clamp and disconnect the gear shift rod from the gear selection hinge. It is also necessary to support the engine, otherwise it may drop too low and tear off the interior heater hoses.

Having unscrewed the bolts securing the rear suspension support of the power unit, remove the suspension bracket from the eyes of the body spar.

Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt of the left engine mount. Unscrew the three starter mounting nuts and remove the starter.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the three bolts and one nut securing the clutch housing to the cylinder block, remove the gearbox from the engine and remove it.

Using an 8-mm spanner, unscrew the six bolts securing the clutch housing to the flywheel. To loosen the bolts easily, tap their heads with a copper hammer. You can also use a 8mm socket to loosen the bolts.

Remove the driven and driven clutch discs. We check the degree of wear of the friction linings. If the rivet heads are recessed less than 0.2 mm, the surface of the friction linings is oily or the rivet joints are loose, the disc must be replaced. Cracks or mechanical damage to parts of the driven disk are not allowed.

If a visual inspection reveals loosening of the rivet connections of the clutch basket and drive disc parts, the clutch drive disc assembly should be replaced.

Lubricate the release bearing seat on the shaft, as well as the clutch guide forks, then install the bearing.

When installing the clutch, we orient the driven disk with its protruding part towards the drive disk and insert the centering mandrel.

We insert the mandrel into the hole in the crankshaft and secure the clutch drive disc in this position, tightening the bolts evenly (one turn per pass). We tighten the bolts no more than one turn each, so as not to deform the flange of the clutch drive disc. We assemble everything in reverse order.

Replacing the VAZ-2109 clutch without removing the box

Even if you follow all the instructions that can be found in the car's owner's manual, replacing the clutch is not at all easy. The prerequisite for this is that not every car owner has a pit, an overpass and, even less possible, a lift.

If you contact 100, they will change the clutch in almost one hour, but the price will not amuse you, and it will most likely take a whole day, if not two, to complete this task. Everything depends on your knowledge and speed of work. Most of the time is spent on disassembly and assembly, and the installation of the spare parts themselves takes 20-30 minutes. How to do without a pit and a lift?

Let's summarize

If the check shows that the free play is normal, but you doubt your competence in adjusting the unit, contact a service station. Incorrect settings can cause rapid clutch failure. If you want to complete the work yourself, you can find the necessary information on the vehicle manufacturer’s website or in its service book. It is important to complete the work in a timely manner so as not to get into an unpleasant situation on the road. Monitor the service life of clutch parts; for example, the service life of the driven disc is 100 thousand kilometers. But, if a motorist has an aggressive driving style, it can decrease by 2-3 times. How to replace a VAZ 21099 clutch, watch this video:

Source

Clutch selection

When choosing a clutch kit, you should focus not only on your available budget. By saving or buying a fake, you risk getting even more problems in the future.

Valeo kit

Today there are several main manufacturers whose clutches should be purchased for the VAZ 2109.

Manufacturer

Peculiarities

VIS

This is a stock clutch that the VAZ 2109 is equipped with from the factory. If there are laser markings on the discs, this is definitely not a fake. Plus, the company allows you to send an SMS indicating an identification code. If it is a fake, you will be notified accordingly. Good quality, but nothing special to say about them

Valeo

French manufacturer, which is actively counterfeited on the domestic market

To catch fraud, pay attention to the cost and quality of components. Although the brand is from France, Valeo couplings can be produced in Italy, Spain, South Korea

Good quality components ensuring smooth, easy operation. Perfect for female drivers. If you use the clutch correctly, it will last for about 150 thousand kilometers. The flywheel is almost eternal, and the disks are not afraid of overheating within acceptable limits

Luk

A German company that has proven itself well in its homeland and has also earned a lot of praise among Russian motorists. They dampen vibrations perfectly, and real Luk clutches always have an element for damping vibrations of the pressure and driven disks.

Kraft

You can only find negative reviews about Kraft couplings from competitors. An impressive part of the sets under the Kraft brand, presented in Russia, were produced in Turkey, but under a German license. The kit includes a soft release bearing that performs well even under heavy use. The flywheel is very durable. On average, the clutch can withstand 150 thousand kilometers. But if you don’t spare the clutch, the life will be significantly reduced.

Kraft kit

Regardless of the quality of the selected kit, if it is installed incorrectly or due to rough operation of the vehicle, the life of the clutch will not be able to reach those declared by the manufacturer. Therefore, drive your car accordingly.

How to disassemble a VAZ 2109 gearbox

VAZ 2109 - disassembling the box

The process of disassembling the box on a VAZ 2109 car is quite labor-intensive. Disassembly is done in order to perform a short repair of the gearbox and replace failed parts.

Prepare a standard set of tools, remove the box from the car, thoroughly clean it of dirt, blow it with compressed air and place it on a workbench on supports to fix it in a stable state.

The order of work is as follows:

First we need to remove the clutch cable bracket and rear cover. The cover is secured with six nuts, which we unscrew, and then we unscrew the bolt securing the bracket. Tap the cover with a hammer to loosen it and remove it. There is a sealing gasket under the cover; we also remove it and, regardless of its condition, replace it with a new one during assembly.

Next, we engage third or fourth gear, which one does not matter, and use a socket wrench to unscrew the bolt securing the fifth gear fork.

Then we engage fifth gear, moving the synchronizer and fork down so that the coupling splines engage with the gear and, making sure that the shafts do not spin, we unlock the bolts securing the secondary and primary shafts, and then unscrew them.

We take two flat screwdrivers and use them to pry up the fifth speed synchronizer and remove it along with the fork. When removing it, be careful not to let the spring-loaded balls of the clutch fall out.

Now you can remove the locking ring and the fifth gear driven gear from the output shaft. To remove the gear, you need to pry it off with a screwdriver.

Remove the needle bearing thrust washer and the bearing itself.

Remove the fifth gear drive gear from the input shaft.

Nine clutch device

The clutch kit is one of the key components of the Nine transmission. This is a single-disc friction-type mechanism located between the engine and the gearbox (gearbox). The algorithm for its operation is as follows:

Initially, the car is stationary, the engine is started, the pedal is released. The gearshift lever is in the neutral position, that is, the rotation of the input shaft is not transmitted to the secondary shaft.
The driver is preparing to move forward. With his left foot he presses the pedal, and the mechanism disconnects the gearbox input shaft from the engine. The driver moves the lever to the first gear position, the mechanism ensures the engagement of the primary and secondary shafts of the gearbox. The car is stationary because the engine is disconnected from the transmission input shaft.
The driver smoothly but decisively releases the pedal. The engine is connected to the input shaft, the task of which is to transmit power to the drive wheels through the secondary shaft, then the car will start moving.
Switching from first gear to second, from second to third, and so on occurs in the same way.

The VAZ 2109 clutch design is such that when the pedal is released, the driven disk is clamped by springs between the flywheel and the pressure plate. In this case, power is transferred to both gearbox shafts and the drive wheels. When you press the pedal, the VAZ 2109 clutch fork rotates through a special rod and presses on the levers that retract the pressure plate. The VAZ 2109 clutch driven disc is disconnected and power transmission stops. The mechanism casing is connected to the pressure plate by three pairs of elastic plates. The unit is driven by a cable, its lower tip is fixed with nuts in a bracket on the engine crankcase.

The clutch cable is connected to the clutch release fork lever.

Important information about the release bearing on the VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Welcome! Release bearing - not all people know what it is, why it is needed in the operation of the engine and how to determine that it has become unusable and some other little things, so today we will answer all these questions regarding the clutch release bearing.

What is a release bearing, why is it needed in engine operation and what does it look like?

In scientific language: The release bearing itself is intended only to retract the clutch pressure plate from the driven disk; in other words, it is activated only when you press the clutch pedal (Indicated by number 17 in the photo) and when you hold it, that is, when you are in the car you press the pedal, and after pressing the pedal, the release bearing (Number 10) presses on the release levers (Number 9), thereby separating the clutch pressure plate (2) from the driven one (3) so that the gears that are in the boxes (One of many gears of the box, indicated by number 12) have stopped rotating, because as we all know, in order to switch gears to the gearbox, its gears must be stationary.

So, after the clutch is pressed and the gearbox gears are stationary, you can safely change the speed without fear that the gearbox will fail, and after switching the speed you will most likely begin to smoothly release the pedal and thereby the release bearing will go back, so after as soon as you remove your foot from the pedal, the release bearing (10) will go back together with the pressure plate (2) and the fork (13), but here the bearing essentially does not play any role, since it simply goes back and this happens due to the fact that the springs that are installed between the clutch basket and the pressure plate (8) are straightened, and because of this the entire clutch drive, so to speak, falls into place, that is, the pressure plate, the release bearing itself, etc.

In simple language: In general, this unit is needed so that when you press the clutch pedal, the entire drive is disconnected, because as we know, in order to change the speed, the clutch must be disconnected from the engine, and after disconnecting the clutch from the engine, you can safely change gear, but in order to change it You need to make sure that someone holds the clutch in a disconnected state from the engine, so who does this, do you think? Of course the release bearing. It disconnects the clutch from the engine, it keeps the clutch in the disconnected state, and you control this unit by pressing the clutch pedal.

When do you need to change the release bearing, or how can you tell if the release bearing has become unusable?

As such, this bearing does not have a specific shelf life, but there are several options that can help you understand that the release bearing has become unusable, namely:

Usually when it fails, it starts to make noise, but this noise only happens when you press the clutch pedal and when you hold it, in other cases there should not be any noise, but if you do not adjust the gap between the working cylinder pusher and with a fork, then in this case the bearing will make noise even when the clutch pedal is off. (For information on how to adjust the clutch pedal, see the article entitled: “Adjusting the clutch on a VAZ.” In this article, following the link, find the section: “When do you need to adjust the clutch?” and there it will be said about this gap, which must be between the working cylinder rod and the fork, and this article will tell you how to set this gap if you don’t have one)

What should I do to make the release bearing last longer? These are the questions we are asked very often, because replacing a release bearing is not an easy job and it also pays well, so most people are surprised when they hear such a price, and after that, most people have this question.

So let's answer it. In order for the bearing to serve a long life, the first and most important thing is that there must be a gap between the current of the working cylinder and the fork (This was mentioned earlier). Therefore, if there is no gap as such, and the fork holds the rod under tension, then the release bearing will not live a very long life, because it will always be under tension.

And one more nuance. In order for the bearing to live a long life, you also do not need to constantly keep the clutch pedal depressed; in general, try to significantly reduce the time when the pedal is in the floor and try to touch it only when switching.

Note! If you have any other questions, then ask them in the comments and we will be happy to answer them!

Additional video clip: You can see how to check the release bearing for serviceability in the video clip located just below: