VAZ 2114 safety valve

Sometimes a car enthusiast may notice that wet spots of fuel appear near the gas tank flap, and they can occur both when the tank is full and when the level of fuel in it is low. In the vast majority of cases, the VAZ 2114 separator, which has failed, is to blame for this. Today we will talk about what it is, where it is installed and how to replace it with a new one.

Separator VAZ 2114

How to diagnose an adsorber malfunction yourself

As a rule, no serious malfunctions occur with the automobile adsorber, which is due to its simple design and the absence of serious loads. However, over time, the filter layer becomes clogged, which can be judged by a number of indirect signs. The first and fairly obvious signal indicating a malfunction of the adsorber is increased pressure in the gas tank. When it is opened, a strong hiss will be heard, and in some cases the tank cap may simply be knocked off, which can result in injury to the car owner.

Many drivers who do not know why an adsorber is needed in a car and what it is, in the situation described above, do simply - open the tank several times a day, releasing air from it. More “knowledgeable” people can completely exclude the adsorber from the fuel system, not considering it an important element. Both of these actions are fundamentally incorrect, since the absence of an adsorber, as well as its malfunction, significantly reduces engine power, “floating” idle speed appears, and fuel consumption increases noticeably.

It is worth understanding that the presence of an adsorber in a car not only increases its environmental friendliness, but also leads to fuel savings, which without this element would simply evaporate while the car is not in use. This is due to the fact that when the fuel is heated, its vapors “leave” the fuel tank and initially enter the separator, which retains the bulk of them. Condensation occurs in it, and the fuel in liquid form is returned to the tank. The same part of the evaporation that did not have time to condense ends up in the coal filler, where it safely remains, subsequently participating in the process of enriching the mixture.

Separator design

The VAZ 2114 gasoline vapor separator is a small, completely sealed tank made of metal or impact-resistant plastic. It is installed in the right rear part of the car on a special bracket. Using a hose system, it is connected to the gas tank (from where vapors flow through drain pipes) and to a two-way valve. The total volume of this device is 7 liters.

Once in this tank, the vapors accumulate in it and, due to increased concentration and cooling, condense. Drops of condensation settle on the walls and bottom, after which they gradually flow back into the gas tank. The same vapors that did not have time to condense flow towards the two-way valve. From its name it is easy to guess that it works in both directions at once - “for the intake” of atmospheric air into the tank and “for the release” of fuel vapors outside.

Features of adsorber removal

What is ABS in a car and why is ABS needed? How does the anti-lock braking system work
? If you decide to completely remove the adsorber, you will need:

replace the gas tank cap with a leaky one;
replace the firmware of the electrical control unit;
plug the outlet and supply pipes.

As mentioned earlier, before removing the adsorber, you should think about the advisability of such an action, since there are no unnecessary parts in the car.
But even if you decide to delete it, this process should be taken seriously. First of all, you need to take care of the ventilation of the gas tank, which is simply necessary in the absence of an adsorber. Those car owners who convert a carburetor engine to an injection engine have an undeniable advantage. If they do not touch the tank pipes, then they will not be able to disrupt the carburetor ventilation system. In this situation, there is no need for an adsorber in such cars. In the case of the VAZ-2114 car, which has an injection engine, everything is much more complicated. However, there is no need to remove the adsorber either. It should be noted that the only positive aspect of having an adsorber is the reduction in the amount of harmful emissions into the atmosphere of our planet. The undeniable “disadvantages” of this part include the rather high cost, as well as too much space occupied by the adsorber under the hood. It is the last two facts that, as a rule, become the reason for making a decision to remove it.

But most often, car enthusiasts remove the adsorber after it has failed. Its cost is so high that car owners come to the conclusion that they are not really concerned about the state of the Earth's atmosphere. Moreover, removing this part is quite simple. To do this, you need to put a fine filter on the separator hose. Now all gasoline vapors will go directly into the atmosphere. In this case, there is no need to close the hose from the valve. But if the Check Engine bothers you, then you should adjust the ECU control program so that this light stops glowing on the dashboard.

Any car is a fairly serious source of environmental pollution. To minimize this effect, automakers use many technologies that reduce the amount of harmful emissions into the atmosphere. Among the simplest methods for increasing the environmental friendliness of a car are a catalytic converter and a fuel vapor adsorber, which should not be released into the atmosphere. This is required by the Euro-3 standard. In addition to the fuel vapor adsorber, many modern cars are equipped with catalytic converters that reduce exhaust toxicity.

The principle of operation of the fuel vapor adsorber is quite simple - it collects fuel vapor, sending it back for afterburning. This eliminates the possibility of “emission” of gasoline vapors into the atmosphere, and also ensures more stable and sustainable engine operation. Many car owners do not know why an adsorber is needed and do not consider it an important element of the fuel system

In fact, in addition to a purely “ecological” function, it has another important practical significance - it maintains normal pressure in the fuel tank

Excessive pressure in the tank is formed due to active evaporation of fuel, which is observed in two cases:

when atmospheric pressure decreases;
when heating the fuel itself, which is observed in the summer under the influence of sunlight, or when returning fuel heated in the engine, but not used during combustion.

In the absence of an adsorber, many motorists are faced with the problem of difficulty opening the gas tank cap, which occurs when the pressure in it is increased.

Separator design

Despite the obvious simplicity of the fuel ventilation system and the minimum of parts located in it, it still breaks down, leading to rather unpleasant consequences.

So, signs of a vapor separator failure may include:

Having noticed these signs, we can conclude that the VAZ 2114 gas tank separator is cracked or leaky and is no longer doing its job.

How to check the adsorber

Static ignition systems. How the system works

Now let’s move directly to the algorithm for checking the adsorber (its other name is the fuel vapor accumulator). The main task in this case is to determine how sealed its body is and whether it allows fuel vapors to escape into the atmosphere. So, the check must be performed according to the following algorithm:

Adsorber housing

Disconnect the negative terminal from the vehicle battery.
First, disconnect all hoses and contacts going to it from the adsorber, and then remove the fuel vapor accumulator directly. This procedure will look different for different machines, depending on the location of the assembly, as well as the mounting means with which it was secured.
It is necessary to plug (seal) the two fittings tightly. The first one goes directly to atmospheric air, the second one goes to the solenoid purge valve.
After this, use a compressor or pump to apply a slight air pressure to the fitting going to the fuel tank. Don't overdo it with pressure! A working adsorber should not leak from the housing, that is, be sealed. If such leaks are detected, then most likely the unit needs to be replaced, since it is not always possible to repair it. In particular, this is especially true if the adsorber is made of plastic.

It is also necessary to perform a visual inspection of the adsorber. This is especially true for its body, in particular, for rust spots on it. If they occur, then it is advisable to dismantle the adsorber, get rid of the mentioned spots and paint the body. It is imperative to check whether coal from the fuel evaporation accumulator is leaking into the EVAP system pipelines. This can be done by inspecting the condition of the adsorber valve. If it contains the mentioned carbon, then you need to change the foam separator in the adsorber. However, as practice shows, it is still better to replace the adsorber completely than to engage in amateur repairs that do not lead to success in the long term.

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Gasoline vapor recovery system operating principle.

The engine is switched off.

Car gas tank device and principle of operation

When the car engine is turned off, pressure is created in the fuel tank due to the evaporation of fuel. Fuel vapor enters the separator. Fuel can also get there under pressure when the tank is fully filled. If gasoline enters the two-way valve pipeline due to excessive pressure, the blocking and safety valves will operate. In this case, an emergency release of pressure to the outside occurs.

The separator is used to separate vapors from gasoline. Under the influence of pressure, a two-way valve opens and vapors enter the adsorber through the pipeline, where they are absorbed by activated carbon.

Work after starting the engine.

After starting and idling the engine, due to fuel consumption and a decrease in its volume, the pressure in the gas tank decreases and the two-way valve closes. This leads to disconnection of the adsorber and the gas tank. Subsequently, when the engine is idling for a long time, an even greater vacuum is created in the tank and, under the influence of vapor pressure from the adsorber, the two-way valve opens and the adsorber is partially purged, that is, part of the vapor is returned to the tank. When the car speed is above 20 km/h, the engine temperature is not lower than 80 degrees. C, the calculation of the fuel supply to the cylinders will be carried out in a closed cycle, that is, with the participation of the oxygen sensor readings and the engine will not operate at idle speed (the throttle valve is open more than 2%), the process of purging the adsorber will begin. In this case, the controller will briefly begin to supply power to the adsorber purge valve.

The pulse frequency depends on the engine operating mode and is within 16 Hz. When the purge valve is activated, the adsorber filter element communicates with the atmosphere, from where outside air comes, and with the intake manifold, where gasoline vapors evaporated from the filter element enter. When the vehicle speed decreases below 2 km/h or the throttle valve is opened more than 98%, the controller stops supplying power to the canister purge valve.

admin02/10/2011

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Spare parts catalog VAZ Lada 2109, 21093, 21099 – Separator

AVTOVAZ - 21099-1101079-00 - air tube hose of the fuel tank and separator Fora-Invest LLC Tolyatti

Plastic — 1-45700-80 — Electrical bracket. wiring d-18mm (1/45700/80)

AVTOVAZ - 00001-0025990-71 - Washer 6

AVTOVAZ — 21080340122800 — Steering gear cover clamp

DAAZ - 2108-3401228 - Steering rack clamp for VAZ 2108, OKA,

DAAZ — 2108.3401228-00 — Rack cover clamp, plastic, unified tooth. auto.- B

DAAZ - 21080340122800 - Steering rack boot clamp for VAZ-2108-2115, 2121, 2131, 2123 (pack of 20 pcs.)

Plastic — 2108-3401228 — VAZ-2108 steering rack clamp

AVTOVAZ - 21080 1164050 01 - Gasoline vapor separator assembly

DAAZ - 2108-1164050-01 - Separator 2108 (DZS)

OAT - 2108-1164050 01 - Separator (DZS LLC) VAZ 21080

AVTOVAZ - 00001-0001685-90 - Clamp 12

TM — 10902021 — BOLT М6Х1.0Х12 VAZ-2101 HOOD HINGES TTM

AVTOVAZ - 00001-0009020-21 - Bolt m 6x12

BelZAN - 1/09020/21 - Bolt for fastening the rear brake cylinder VAZ-2101 M 6*12

AVTOVAZ — 00001-0007259-11 — Nut M 6

AVTOVAZ — 21080116405000 — Separator

DAAZ - 2108-1164050 - Separator VAZ-2108-099 (DZS)

DAAZ — 21080116405000 — Gasoline vapor separator VAZ-2108, 2115

DZS - 2108-1164050 - Gasoline vapor separator 2108-99, 2113-15

BRT - 2108-1101085 - VAZ-2108 gasoline vapor separator sealing ring BRT

From which Euro standards is it installed?

According to international requirements, the installation of an adsorber is mandatory on cars with Euro-2 standards and higher. As for the standard known in Russia (Russia-83), there is no installation of an adsorber here.

So, in VAZ-2108 cars there is no adsorber. Here the separator and the fuel tank are connected to each other using a drain tube.

During operation, condensation occurs and returns to the fuel tank.

In addition, the separator interacts with the atmosphere using a 2-way valve, which does not allow the pressure in the tank to increase or decrease.

The connection between the tank and the neck occurs using a gasoline-resistant tube, fixed with clamps. It turns out that when the pressure in the tank decreases (increases), fuel vapors escape into the atmosphere.

The system is organized differently in VAZ Priora cars. Here, the fuel vapors that entered the separator from the fuel container condense. The condensate then accumulates and returns to the tank.

A gravity valve is mounted in the upper part of the separator, which prevents the fuel mixture from leaking out of the tank if the machine overturns.

If the engine is started, the vapors of the fuel mixture are mixed with air masses and discharged through the throttle assembly into the intake pipe - to the cylinders of the power unit.

It turns out that fuel vapors in a stationary position of the car accumulate in the adsorber, and if the car is moving, they are purged by the valve and sent to the receiver and to the engine for afterburning.

According to Euro-2 requirements, the fuel tank ventilation must not come into contact with ambient air, and vapors must be collected and directed to the engine (or adsorbed by the device in question).

As for the Russia-83 standards, contact between the atmosphere and ventilation of the fuel bank is not prohibited.

Separator replacement

Due to the fact that the separator is an ordinary tank (most often plastic), it is hardly worth trying to repair it with improvised means - due to the high fluidity of gasoline, the problem may remain, and time for repairs will be wasted. That is why the best option in this situation is replacement (especially since a new vapor separator is very inexpensive).

If possible, it is better to purchase a metal separator - it is more resistant to vibrations and has an increased service life.

To replace this device you will need the following set of tools:

The separator replacement itself is performed in the following order:

The new gas tank vapor separator should be installed in exactly the same order, but in reverse order.

Photo and video instructions for those who plan to independently change the separator on a VAZ 2114, 13, 15 car. To perform this type of work, you will need an overpass or an inspection hole.

Before starting work, make sure that the fuel level in the tank is below the entry point of the filler neck.

Operating principle of the adsorber

Many people mistakenly believe that when the engine starts, voltage is immediately applied to the canister valve and it opens, purging the canister. I even saw “manuals” and “training videos” about this. In fact, the purge valve is controlled by the ECU using special algorithms based on readings from temperature, air flow, etc. sensors.

The greater the engine air consumption, the longer the duration of the ECU control pulses and the more intense the purging.

It is impulses, and not just the supply of voltage! Therefore, there is such a thing as “adsorber purge duty cycle,” which ranges from 0% to 100%. Here is the duty cycle of the canister purge in the Chevrolet Explorer diagnostic program

During the entire trip, this is only the first signal from the ECU to purge, equal to only 6%. So this is a complex and important process in engine operation.

Here is the duty cycle of the canister purge in the Chevrolet Explorer diagnostic program. During the entire trip, this is only the first signal from the ECU to purge, equal to only 6%

So this is a complex and important process in the operation of the engine.

Signs of a malfunctioning canister valve

As it becomes clear, problems arise with the power system:

The revolutions are floating. But not immediately, but after about 5 - 10 minutes on a warm engine
At idle, if the engine is running, you press the gas pedal - it almost stalls. Feels like we're running out of fuel
While driving, the car does not develop the required power, it feels like 10–15% of the engine power has been removed
The fuel tank sensor may go crazy. It shows either “full” or “empty”, etc.
If you open the tank to refuel. A strong whistle is heard, as if a vacuum has been created inside.
Fuel consumption increases
When cold, the absorber sensor can knock loudly and is often confused with engine valves

Now a useful video.

If you experience these malfunctions, then you definitely need to look - check the valve and, if necessary, change it, fortunately it costs a penny. And also the cavity itself with activated carbon.

Comments • 61

You can't really see anything

Good day, Vladislav Chikov, please tell me why the adsorber stinks of gasoline? I installed a new one, and it still stinks, especially when there are 5-7 liters of gasoline left in the tank. Help out!

Nothing is visible or clear, you suck as a blogger.

Just now I noticed from the gasoline drips, almost a year ago one muddle on a Kamaz was driven in with tow hooks and the right brake light needs to be replaced, as well as on the trunk. Today I noticed drips and a crack, I will then change almost the entire set, and removing the bumper is not a difficult process, as well as disassembling everything in principle, some are simply too lazy to do this, so they send it to services, where handymen often work.

Can water get into the tank through it when it rains?

I have a black valve on the absorber

IS IT DANGEROUS TO DRIVE WITH A BURST AS IS? OR WITHOUT IT?

What if there is leakage around the filler cap? (I changed the cap) even when the gas is at least “the light is on”?!

Did you not have a curtain on the neck of the fuel pipe or was it already unscrewed/removed beforehand?

I am very grateful to you for your detailed analysis and comments, it was necessary to change the platform and rubber (gasket) under the neck of the gas tank on a VAZ 2115, no one knew and did this work. In the end, my friend and I, with the help of your video, changed everything, additionally checked the safety valve, clamps and everything else. Thank you

Explained everything perfectly. Apparently VAZ cars have a couple of places with problems with the smell of gasoline. It’s either in the area of the filler neck. The separator bursts at the seam. Or there’s a problem with the fuel pump. It’s located under the back seat. The eternal problem is the small studs. The edges are always licked off. The nuts don’t hold. The studs break .The benz comes out and starts to stink.

Or could there be a large overrun due to a crack?

Bitch. replaced the cracked separator. there are no leaks. There is a hose on the left nipple of the separator, nothing is put on the right nipple. but the slight smell of gasoline can still be felt (((((

Or maybe their separator prevents the car from starting in warm weather? The car is parked in the sun the first time it does not start, I open the gas tank cap and everything starts to start normally

Thank you! There was also a smell of gasoline, I went and looked and the separator actually burst!

Periodically smells of gasoline when driving when the tank is not full. I didn’t even suspect that there was such crap in our nines and fours. I bought a new tank. I thought that it was rusty on top, as usually happens. I was puzzled by this video. I'll have to sort out my whole ass because of this barrel.

Well done! He sees very useful things; Everything is explained clearly

Most of what was shown on the screen was not clear. Please shoot normally.

explanations on the screen without commas - you won’t understand what you mean!

I just have this hose dangling and gasoline flows from it to the separator, if it is plugged what will happen?

BB, crap store, a lot of substandard and expensive cabbage

I wonder what moronic designer came up with the idea to put it there. Half the car needs to be dismantled because of this moron! Bought. I'll go change it. I'm afraid that there won't be enough supplies of Russian swearing.

@Dmitry Tsykhmistrov You’ll see a cretin in the mirror!

I didn’t notice that the floor of the car can be disassembled, literally, the bumper is held on by 6 bolts, if you remove it completely, it’s even easier in the pit. Look into foreign cars and you will see your idiotic decisions.

Is it plastic or what? I have an iron one and the valve is located on the adsorber under the hood. Do you know how to check the gravity valve for functionality? If so, tell me.

Hi, if there is a big crack on the separator, can water get into the tank through it??

HELLO. WHAT IF YOU THROW OUT THE SEPARATOR AT ALL? WHAT CAN HAPPEN? INSTALL COVER WITH VALVE.

For the Trolls..Have you ever changed the gas tank on a 14K? I advise you to immediately change what is described here, and you will be happy.

Vasily Ivanov, well, the only troll here so far is you.

I was too lazy to remove the bumper...and change the valves and separator, and this is the result! I'll plug the gas tank with a rag and get some damn spare parts... the stupid guy gets fucked twice!

I replaced the gas tank on 14k due to a crack.. a week later the separator died.. I’ll look into it..

Please tell me the VAZ 2110 produced in 2005 has a separator. Thank you

Iskan Sher yes there is, under the left rear fender

My cover is spinning, I bought a new one, the same crap, what should I do?

how to change the safety valve without removing the bumper? on a VAZ 2108 (1988 carburetor)? I have pressure building up in the tank. I recognize it by the smell from the central nozzles of the stove. presses out pressure after the check valve from the carburetor.

I removed the separator but did not see any cracks! created pressure in it and no bubbles under water! but the smell never goes away! Under the hood everything is fine, everything is clamped, everything is dry! what could be wrong please tell me

but there are also times when the VAZ is happy for a long time even without investment - this is also a fact.

Yes, don’t even talk about it, you don’t have time to get to one thing, so other troubles come up. Now the car somehow started to wobble and the traction felt worse, it’s not to the point of sepor now.

I don’t know exactly, maybe change everything, I changed everything, even that didn’t help)))AvtoVAZ))

When you fill in a lot of gasoline, at least 25-30 liters, there is always a terrible stench of gasoline, then when the tank is empty to at least 15-18 liters, everything returns to normal, the stench disappears, Vladislav, do you think it’s the separator?

+Timur Tavkeshev hoses, clamps, valves, adsorber, look at everything. I had everything new, but in the heat with the window open, it still smelled of gasoline, I couldn’t overcome it, I think the seals in the gas tank area when you open the window create a vacuum and through them it pulls into the cabin. - This is nine.

there may be a smell due to the fact that there is no hose from the separator to the valve, which also does not exist, as well as a gravity one)*.

What a great story you say =) The last phrase also sounded good))

PPT on my 4 car there is no valve at all near the neck.

I have such crap on the spot. No valves, no hose.

The same. I looked through everything. There are no valves of any kind.

+Ivan Ivanov and me)) and there is no gravity valve either. and there is no second hose on the separator

why does it (separator) burst in injection

+ Anatoly Kulik because the valve gets clogged, and a vacuum is created in the separator and compresses it

Hi Vlad, I have a couple of questions about the 1.8t engine, help me out! How can I correspond with you?

Vlad, such a thing, it’s worth a new turbine, a flame arrester, a new bypass and the 75th timing marks are all in place. but the trouble is, she doesn’t want to pull from the bottom, not from the top. the boost reaches 0.7 but there is zero pickup and at the peak of the boost the shocks are not strong. It costs HBO-4 and it drives equally badly

@Denis Konovalov hello, here or in contact.

What do i do ? Many smart people advised to remove the separator, now gasoline is thrown out of the Artsorber valve when driving like a volcano. They say they remove it and it drives normally, but I don’t understand what’s wrong

Thanks for the advice, I thought so too, I bought another one and am going to install it the other day using your video. I hope everything works out

@Omarov Ruslan put the separator in place and all the valves, you can buy a metal one, it’s stronger.

When I worked at a service station, we didn’t change the nuts; on foreign cars, the original ones cost a lot of money. We had cans of old grease, like the kind from CV joints that had already served its purpose. Before throwing the CV joint into scrap, we scooped out the grease into a jar and brought unnecessary toothbrushes from home. And lubricating the threads before assembly is a nice thing, it doesn’t stick, doesn’t rust, and then everything can be unscrewed with pistols easily and simply. Any grease and their mixture will work, the main thing is to observe the tightening torque)))

@Vadim Orel yes, that’s true, I also preserve it after assembly, but not the thread, but the entire bolt and nut after tightening, so that they don’t rust, especially under the bottom, with a lubricant that is not afraid of water.

Canister valve. How to check it

The principle of checking on most cars is the same, but we will look at the example of the Chevrolet Lacetti.

Problems with the canister purge valve can be divided into several main points:

impulses do not arrive to the valve
Valve coil failure
valve stuck open
valve jamming in closed position

It is very easy to check the pulses, wiring and valve winding with the Chevrolet Explorer program, in the “mechanism control - canister purge valve test” tab. When you click on the “ON” button in the program diagram, we will see the following signals

This means that the ECU is giving a command to the valve. At the same time, the sound of clicks will emanate from the valve in time with these signals, which, in turn, means that the pulses reach the valve and the winding is intact, since the valve is activated.

By the way, if you don’t have a diagnostic adapter yet, then I advise you to definitely read the diagnostics section and purchase an adapter.

The electrical part is OK. We checked this. But to be sure that the valve is not physically jammed, it can be removed and checked. It is very easy to dismantle and it takes me no more than 30 seconds.

Two tubes and a block with two wires are connected to the valve. The valve itself is not even screwed on, but simply inserted into its working place.

In the photo one tube has already been removed.

To remove the valve, just pull off the two tubes marked with a green and a red arrow (the red one has already been removed, and the green one is hard to see from this angle). The tubes are removed simply and easily without any clamps.

Then press the metal lock and unfasten the wire block (shown by the yellow arrow)

After this, press on the fitting shown by the red arrow and the valve will come out of its seat.

The valve is normally closed, that is, without voltage applied it does not allow air to pass through. You need to check this in any available way - with a rubber bulb, an inflatable ball, etc.

I had on hand a syringe and a piece of vacuum tube left over after replacing the absolute pressure sensor tubes.

When moving the syringe piston, resistance should be felt, and the piston itself tends to return to its original position, which means sealing the valve. When removing the tube from the syringe, a characteristic puff should be heard. This means that the adsorber valve is closed hermetically.

All that remains is to check the opening of the valve. To do this, we take two wires with such mini-mothers

And connect it to the adsorber valve connector. You can carefully and simply use a wire without a tip.

Move the syringe plunger and connect the wires to the battery. When connected, you should hear that same zilch sound, which means that the valve has opened and released pressure.

It happens that the valve does not open. Then just replace it with a good one.

That's all the simple methods on how to check the adsorber valve.

Peace and smooth roads to everyone!!!

I like 41+

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How to clean the crankcase ventilation system on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

Preparing for cleaning:

1) First, remove the air filter housing from the car. (Instructions for removing the housing can be found in the article: “Replacing the air filter housing”)

2) Next, move to the hose that is located on the cylinder head cover. Having approached the hose, unclench and then disconnect the plastic wire holder indicated by the blue arrow. Then use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp; the red arrow points to the tightening screw.

3) Now unscrew the central nut that secures the accelerator drive bracket, and then unscrew the two side nuts securing the cylinder head cover itself.

Note! When the nut securing the central bracket is unscrewed, remove the bracket from the block head and, as a result, leave it hanging on the accelerator drive cable!

4) Finally, remove the cylinder head cover.

Cleaning the crankcase ventilation system:

1) First, unscrew two bolts, one of which is short and long (Number 2), and the other is long (Number 1). The bolts are located inside the cover, and they secure the oil separator.

Note! There are washers underneath both bolts, so be careful not to lose them!

2) Then remove the oil separator housing from the inside of the cover.

3) Next, remove the mesh package from the head cover.

Note! When the oil separator housing, the mesh package and the cylinder head itself are removed, rinse them thoroughly with kerosene!

4) When the screens are washed, install them in their place and then turn them so that they are all level in the oil separator cover and so that on one side they rest against the protrusions (Photo under number 1), and on the other side so that space is left for the bolt securing the oil separator housing (Photo number 2).

Note! After the screens are installed as required, install the oil separator housing in place and tighten one short bolt and the other long bolt securing it!

5) And upon completion of the operation, check the condition of the head cover gasket. If the gasket is deformed or severely compressed, then replace it with a new one.

Note! When all cleaning operations are completed, install all previously removed parts in the reverse order of removal!

The principle of operation of the adsorber on the VAZ-2114

First, you need to understand what adsorption is. So, this is a certain process due to which the absorption of liquid and solid gaseous substances is carried out. A striking example of this can be the world’s first gas masks, where Activated Carbon acted as an adsorber. In the VAZ-2114 car, the adsorber is approximately the same device, only its design has become much more complex. A car adsorber today is a plastic case, inside of which there is a special filler that can trap gasoline vapors, thereby protecting the atmosphere from pollution. But this detail on the VAZ-2114 is not limited to this. The fact is that the adsorber also includes various valves and pipes.

The adsorber has no effect on fuel consumption at all, since its main purpose is to improve the environmental friendliness of the car. As the gas tank empties, fuel vapor rises up the neck and then enters the separator. At this point it again acquires a liquid state, as a result of which it returns to the tank. Some of the vapor that failed to condense ends up in the above-mentioned adsorber. The latter, by the way, is filled with the same Activated Carbon, designed to absorb harmful gases. It is quite remarkable that this process occurs with the engine turned off.

Replacing the separator VAZ 2109

#1 Chronos

I was forced to replace the separator by the smell of gasoline in the cabin when driving with the windows open. A wet, cracked separator was found behind the gas tank flap (I had not paid attention to it before):

The separator has a volume of 7 liters, respectively, most of it is located under the wing tin. After a long search, the separator was purchased for 110 rubles, but I could not find a detailed manual anywhere on how to replace it. To replace the separator you need: 1) Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 4 screws securing the bumper to the beam (it is better to do it from a hole). The screws “look” with their heads vertically down.

2) Using an open-end or socket wrench 10, unscrew the two nuts securing the bumper in the area of the rear wheel. To do this, you can remove the wheel and fender liner, or you can simply bend the fender liner and tuck it into the tire sipes:

Here, the nuts for the side fastening of the bumper are already sealed with plasticine: It is very inconvenient to unscrew (it would probably be better to buy a spanner with a ratchet), but removing the wheel in the garage was also not convenient, and I was too lazy to do it.

3) Move the bumper slightly to the side. We do not touch the left bumper mount.

4) We twist the metal platform for fastening the neck of the tank. The key nut for 10 is located in the trunk:

The second fastening - a 8mm wrench bolt is located there (unscrewed with a wrench):

5) Lower the platform as low as possible and remove the separator from the niche. Then loosen the tube clamps and disconnect the two tubes from the separator. Next, peel off the shock-absorbing strips from the old separator and glue them to the new one

#2 ABC

Post edited by ABC: August 28, 2011 – 07:35

#3 serii1234

I was forced to replace the separator by the smell of gasoline in the cabin when driving with the windows open. A wet, cracked separator was found behind the gas tank flap (I had not paid attention to it before):

#4 StrayCat

I just want to turn off this pipe..

Post edited by StrayCat: August 28, 2011 – 08:01

#5 serii1234

Only then get ready for the car to suddenly stop and the tank to slightly reduce its volume due to the resolution created in it. This pipe is not made there for beauty. It is needed to connect the tank cavity with the atmosphere to equalize the pressure, and to prevent it from stinking, separators, two-way valves, adsorbers, etc. are made.

#6 StrayCat

Do you think your tank cap is so tight?

#7 Chronos

There are a couple more valves hanging on it, it’s better to buy a bracket for attaching the gravity valve in advance, the very platform from which the separator sticks out

two side fasteners for the rear bumper, which are inserted into the fender liner with nuts - the threads on them are almost completely covered if the car has been driven for 3-4 winters.

answer, one tube comes into it and that’s it? does the vapor go through it to the separator and does the condensate return through it?

Do you think your tank cap is so tight? what could be a discharge? I have a key and it sways quite well on the axle and the axle goes right through to the tank.. well, I’ll make a hole.. like before there were all the plugs in the tanks.. (if I notice a vacuum)

#8 ABC

I could barely find a separator on sale; with a platform it will be much more difficult.

Oh, I just found a separator and a platform. The trouble is that there are several types of them - both platforms (like 2, with different types of fastening) and separators. In order to find the right one, I first had to study online catalogs with pictures. There are differences either by car (14-15), or by the type of generation of Euro-standards used, or by a mishmash of both - I don’t remember. I remember that on my e-2 I had a pressure relief valve mushroom, a gravity valve and some other thing, and during dismantling, the attachment point of the separator platform was tightly stuck to me; I was able to remove it only after dismantling the gravity valve mounting bracket and unscrewing this damn platform. Moreover, the bracket then had to be adjusted and placed on a new platform, because... It is impossible to find it on sale. And such nonsense happened because the area was covered with paint from the factory and that’s it, naturally after 1 year it began to peel off. The new platform and all the attachments, including new clamps (of course, the old ones will almost certainly turn into dust and break off the first time you try to loosen them) were filled with anti-corrosion from a bottle, having previously mercilessly washed everything from the Karcher. Naturally, you need to do everything wisely, without covering the “fungus” of the pressure-relieving valve with anticorrosive.

These nuts unscrewed easily for me, because... The fender liner protects them a little. The car is 4 years old and is used all year round. After replacing, I sealed the nuts with plasticine.

#9 serii1234

There are 2 tubes coming to the separator, you can see them in the penultimate photo (the second one is blue).

The original lid is sealed. The one sold with the lock cylinder is not airtight. By the way, one winter the larva froze, I had to pull out this plug, and pulled it out quite easily with my hands. After that, I secured the hatch with a reed switch. So I don’t see the point in a traffic jam with a key.

How to check the adsorber valve

If after checking it turns out that the adsorber is in more or less working condition, then it makes sense to check its purge solenoid valve. It’s worth mentioning right away that for some machines, due to their design, some actions will differ, some of them will be present or absent, but in general the verification logic will always remain the same. So, to check the adsorber valve, you must perform the following steps:

Canister valve

Visually check the integrity of the rubber hoses included in the fuel vapor recovery system, in particular those directly approaching the valve. They must be intact and ensure the tightness of the system. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. This is done to prevent false alarms of the system diagnostics and to enter information about the corresponding errors into the electronic control unit. Remove the absorber (usually it is located on the right side of the engine, in the area where the air system elements are installed, in particular the air filter). Turn off the electrical power to the valve itself. This is done by removing the electrical connector (the so-called “chip”) from it. Disconnect the inlet and outlet air hoses from the valve. Using a pump or medical bulb, you must try to blow air into the system through the valve (into the holes for the hoses)

It is important to ensure the tightness of the air supply. To do this, you can use clamps or a thick rubber tube. If everything is in order with the valve, it will be closed and air will not be blown through

Otherwise, its mechanical part will fail. You can try to restore it, but this is not always possible. It is necessary to supply electric current from the power supply or battery using wires to the valve contacts. At the moment the circuit closes, you should hear a characteristic click, which signals that the valve has actuated and opened. If this does not happen, then perhaps instead of a mechanical failure there is an electrical failure, in particular, its electromagnetic coil has burned out. With the valve connected to an electric current source, you must try to blow air into it in the manner described above. If it is working properly, and therefore open, then this should work without problems. If it is not possible to pump through air, then the valve has failed. Next, you need to reset the power from the valve, and there will be a click again, indicating that the valve has closed. If this happens, it means the valve is working.

You can also check the adsorber valve using a multifunctional multimeter, switched to ohmmeter mode - a device for measuring the insulation resistance value of the electromagnetic winding of the valve. The probes of the device must be placed at the coil terminals (the places where the wires coming from the electronic control unit are connected to it; there are various design solutions), and the insulation resistance between them must be checked. For a normal, serviceable valve, this value should be within approximately 10...30 Ohms or differ slightly from this range. If the resistance value is small, it means that there is a breakdown of the electromagnetic coil (short interturn circuit). If the resistance value is very large (calculated in kilo- and even mega-ohms), then the electromagnetic coil breaks. In both cases, the coil, and therefore the valve, will be unsuitable for use. If it is sealed into the housing, then the only way out of the situation will be to completely replace the valve with a new one.

Please note that some vehicles allow a high insulation resistance value on the valve coil (in particular, up to 10 kOhm). Check this information in the manual for your car. Thus, in order to know how to check whether the adsorber valve is working properly, you need to dismantle it and check it in a garage.

The main thing is to know where its electrical contacts are located, and also to perform a mechanical inspection of the device

Thus, in order to know how to check whether the adsorber valve is working properly, you need to dismantle it and check it in a garage. The main thing is to know where its electrical contacts are located, and also to perform a mechanical inspection of the device.

Separator VAZ 2108, How to replace the separator VAZ 2108

Thread starter Shura, 9/24/2010, 9:17 am

#1 Shura

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Message added 9/24/2010, 9:17 am

I have a crack in the separator of a VAZ 2108 (a car without a catalyst) (in hot weather the cabbage soup is wet and stinks), studying the issue of replacing “2108-1164050” led to the conclusion that replacement is expensive, complicated, dangerous and therefore not advisable (you need to remove the fender liners , fuel filler pipe, etc.) I have an idea to break the original tank and replace it with something smaller that fits into the standard hole,

Questions: 1. What’s inside the original “2108-1164050” (what is the minimum volume) 2. what are the requirements for plastic? As I understand it, liquid gasoline gets into it (would white plastic tanks from a windshield wiper or antifreeze be suitable) 3. In general, what kind of tanks can be solutions .

The car is 8 years old, so don’t suggest unscrewing the fender liners

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#2 Twix

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Message added 9/24/2010, 10:50

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#3 su.ZLOY

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Message added 9/24/2010, 11:45

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#4 ZipeR

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Changing the device yourself

To change the adsorber, it is enough to perform a number of simple manipulations. In this case, there are two solutions - do the work yourself or go to a service station and entrust the problem to specialists.

The advantages of the first option are cost savings and high speed of work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

The work time is 15-20 minutes.

As soon as the faulty unit is dismantled, proceed with the installation of a new device.

Here the sequence is as follows:

Connect a long piece of rubber tube to the hose through which fuel vapors flow into the purge channel.
Connect the short part of the tube to the intake tube from the separator.
Put the adsorber in place.
Connect the vapor supply pipe to the purge channel, which is installed on the motor cover.
Connect the block with wires.
Install a tube between the purge channel and the adsorber. Make sure that the material from which the pipe is made is resistant to oil and gasoline.

Withdrawal procedure

The first step is to remove the rear bumper.
Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp securing the tube to the filler pipe.
Remove the tube from the pipe.
Now you need to loosen the clamp on the filler neck hose.
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 2 nuts securing the filler pipe to the body and cut the clamp securing the plastic tube to the filler pipe.
Remove the hose from the filler pipe.
Unscrew and remove the filler cap.
We take out the filler tube from the shield.
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the separator shield.
We take out the bracket from under the shield.
Then you need to fold back the right luggage compartment trim.
Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut of the stud securing the separator shield.
We take the pin out of the hole and take out the separator from the body niche.
loosen the two clamps and disconnect the two tubes from the separator and remove the separator.
Reinstall the separator in reverse order.

Possible malfunctions in the operation of the device

The VAZ 2114 absorber, due to its intended purpose, is susceptible to clogging and at some point may become faulty. Problems are not easily determined and often only by secondary symptoms, for example, increased pressure in the fuel tank. It’s just that gasoline vapors, due to wear of the separator, remain locked in the space of the tank and begin to put pressure on its walls. An increase in pressure can be detected when the tank cap is unscrewed and a characteristic hissing sound is heard.

Sometimes the gas tank cap simply shoots out of the neck, which means that the pressure has reached a critical level and the adsorber must be urgently changed. If there is a problem with the adsorber, the engine speed begins to jump up and down. Many car owners write on forums that you can remove the VAZ absorber and not suffer. But everything is not so simple, and there are never unnecessary parts in cars.

Removing the absorber alone is not enough; you need to think about what to do with gasoline vapors that have nowhere to be discharged, and that the ECU may also have to be reconfigured. After all, some types of on-board engine processors find a malfunction in the purging of the fuel system and put the engine into emergency mode, in which it will not be possible to drive normally.

As for malfunctions, the problem area of this adsorbent system is the purge valve. You can repair it yourself

All you need is a flathead screwdriver, but be careful when removing it. The point is in the valve fastening, it is often not metal, but plastic, it is not difficult to break it

The mount is located on the engine cover. There are also clamps on the valve itself, which also require a careful approach. We remove them and take out the problematic part.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=RfKNQGlqaEQ

Rare malfunction.

If you blow into the valve and air comes out of it, this means a 100% malfunction. A normal part will not allow air to pass through. If there is a problem with the valve, the car experiences problems when starting the engine hot, and gasoline consumption increases. If the problem is not corrected, there will be a Check Engine and loss of normal driving dynamics. Failure of the adsorber seal and failure of the purge valve can cause unstable engine operation at idle until it stops.

So, let's move on to valve repair. In its upper part there is an adjusting screw fixed with epoxy resin. Screw the screw in until it stops, counting the turns so that if something happens, you can return the canister valve to its original position. You can drop a little carburetor flushing fluid into the valve fittings. Then we blow it in the open position with compressed air. The repairs are done.

The valve can also wear out due to heat near the radiator, and there is nothing you can do to help it. The quality of the material from which the adsorber valve is made is not the best. The only solution can be to replace or change the location to a cooler one, for example, closer to the adsorber itself.

Separator VAZ 2109 injector

#1 Chronos

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The smell of gasoline in the cabin forced me to replace the separator when driving with the windows open. A wet, cracked separator was found behind the gas tank flap (I had not paid attention to it before):

Removal Features

The VAZ absorber is sometimes removed completely. To do this, you need:

replace the gas tank cap with a leaky one;
plug the supply and discharge pipes;
often change the ECU firmware.

As mentioned above, you should not approach the adsorber as an unnecessary thing, and if you decide to remove it, remove it correctly so that the gas tank remains ventilated and not tightly sealed, as if there is an adsorber. Those who convert a carburetor engine to an injection engine have an advantage. If they do not touch the tank pipes, they do not disturb the carburetor ventilation system of the tank, so they do not need an adsorber.

Causes of adsorber malfunctions on a VAZ

But in the case of the VAZ 2114, which has an injection engine, everything is more complicated. However, there is no point in removing the absorber. The advantages that the VAZ absorber has are in reducing harmful emissions into the atmosphere, but that’s where they end. And the high cost and the fact that it can interfere with more important parts in the engine compartment become the main reason for removing the device. Why do some drivers make this difficult decision?

Basically, they just don’t like the device, but that’s not an argument. Experienced car enthusiasts remove it when malfunctions occur, so as not to spend money on a new one. It cleans up easily. A fine filter (usually from a VAZ 2108 carburetor) is put on the hose from the separator; in this case, gasoline vapors escape into the atmosphere. The hose from the valve is closed. The engine control program is adjusted so that the ECU does not turn on the Check Engine.

It is better to drill a 2 mm hole in the tank lid to make ventilation, like on a carburetor engine. Otherwise, the tank may not withstand either external or internal pressure. Most often, a vacuum develops in the tank and it crushes like an empty tin can. Many car enthusiasts talk about this for the edification of beginners. What is needed to remove the adsorbent device for replacement?

First you need to free it from its fastenings. We disconnect the block along with the wires, as well as the hose for supplying gasoline to the throttle assembly. We remove the purge valve and remove the fuel vapor outlet hose from the separator. The adsorber bracket is installed on 3 bolts, which must be unscrewed and the bracket carefully removed. The new device is installed on the same special mount, and the fuel vapor supply hose is connected to the purge valve. Remember: when changing the adsorber, you need to change all the pipes from it.

Take care of nature and do not throw away the adsorber. As a last resort, it is better to install a new one, since this is an ordinary filter that works for a very long time and does not require constant monitoring. Environmental standards were not invented to harm, but so that our children and grandchildren could live after us.

Don’t forget that the traffic police inspector and the inspection station personnel may catch you interfering with the design of the car, then you will not be able to pass the technical control. Listen to the advice of experienced car enthusiasts, take care of your car, be polite on the road, then any trip will only bring you a good mood.

Separator replacement

If possible, it is better to purchase a metal separator - it is more resistant to vibrations and has an increased service life.

To replace this device you will need the following set of tools:

The separator replacement itself is performed in the following order:

The new gas tank vapor separator should be installed in exactly the same order, but in reverse order.

Source

Bottom line

An adsorber is one of those devices that does not in any way affect the dynamics of the car and is intended primarily to reduce the level of harm to the atmosphere.

As for , it is too insignificant to concentrate attention on it. At the same time, you shouldn’t throw the product out of the system either - just monitor its serviceability and change it on time

At the same time, you shouldn’t throw the product out of the system either - just monitor its serviceability and change it on time.

If there is a video in the article and it does not play, select any word with the mouse, press Ctrl+Enter, enter any word in the window that appears and click “SEND”. Thank you.

Do you need an adsorber? This question worries many Togliatti car owners. The VAZ 2114 adsorber appeared after the introduction of Euro-3 environmental standards, which required the installation of devices on cars that allow them to retain evaporating fuel so that it does not enter the atmosphere. The black cylinder installed on the VAZ on the right in the corner of the engine compartment near the radiator is the VAZ 2114 absorber, the design of which we will consider.

Cleaning the crankcase ventilation system on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Welcome! Today, cleaning the crankcase ventilation system plays a very important role for your car. Therefore, we have prepared an article especially for you, from which you will learn for yourself how to properly clean the crankcase ventilation system on carburetor cars of the Samara family.

Note! Before starting the replacement, be sure to stock up on kerosene, a clean rag, tools and a container in which to clean the system parts!

Summary:

When should you clean the crankcase ventilation system? Like any other system, the ventilation system has a cleaning frequency, it is as follows:

• The crankcase ventilation system must be cleaned every 60,000 thousand kilometers.

• Or if the system becomes clogged, which will be accompanied by an increase in pressure in the engine crankcase. Due to increased pressure in the system, the car’s engine will become oily, that is, oil will begin to flow through the oil seals and various types of engine gaskets, thereby polluting it.

How to diagnose an adsorber malfunction yourself

Separator design

Features of adsorber removal

Separator design

How to check the adsorber

Welcome to VAZ.EE+ Extended Edition

Gasoline vapor recovery system operating principle.

The engine is switched off.

Work after starting the engine.

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From which Euro standards is it installed?

Separator replacement

Operating principle of the adsorber

Signs of a malfunctioning canister valve

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Canister valve. How to check it

How to clean the crankcase ventilation system on a VAZ 2108-VAZ 21099?

Preparing for cleaning:

Cleaning the crankcase ventilation system:

The principle of operation of the adsorber on the VAZ-2114

Replacing the separator VAZ 2109

#1 Chronos

#2 ABC

#3 serii1234

#4 StrayCat

#5 serii1234

#6 StrayCat

#7 Chronos

#8 ABC

#9 serii1234

How to check the adsorber valve

Separator VAZ 2108, How to replace the separator VAZ 2108

#1 Shura

#2 Twix

#3 su.ZLOY

#4 ZipeR

Changing the device yourself

Withdrawal procedure

Possible malfunctions in the operation of the device

Separator VAZ 2109 injector

#1 Chronos

Removal Features

Separator replacement

Bottom line

Cleaning the crankcase ventilation system on VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099