Each of us is always concerned about how long this or that part or car system will last. It `s naturally. Especially considering the quality of some products, the “skills” of workers, etc.
This issue fully concerns the car’s clutch. Very often on motorist forums there is a serious question about when to change the clutch, and how to know when the time has come to replace it. So let’s try to figure out together what the actual service life of the clutch is, and whether it exists at all.
Is there a certain clutch resource?
How to replace the clutch in a VAZ-2110
Whether or not you will be upset when you find out that the manufacturer does not indicate specific figures for clutch service life. If, for example, in the brake system, it is clearly stated that the thickness of the brake disc should be such and such, then why is this not applicable to the clutch?
The fact is that clutch wear depends on many reasons, and first of all, of course, on how the driver changes gears and in what mode the clutch is used.
And while clutch disc thickness cannot be measured the same way brake disc thickness can be measured with a caliper, there are ways to measure it. There are two of them.
- The first way to measure the thickness of the clutch disc is with a special measuring gauge. This method does not require dismantling the clutch; it is performed on a lift. But you are unlikely to use it.
- the second method is simpler to implement and allows you to determine the wear of the clutch disc in order to replace it. Replacing the driven disk is a procedure provided by the manufacturer, because The driven disk is a consumable part. The check is carried out as follows: with the engine running, you need to put it in high gear, accelerate it, and if the car does not stall, this means that the driven disk is worn out and requires replacement. It must be remembered that such a check of the thickness of the clutch disc is not technologically correct, but it is effective and allows you to determine the condition of the disc extremely accurately.
As already mentioned, the life of any clutch is determined by its operating conditions. Without going into technical details of the interaction of clutch parts, you should understand that basically the life of the clutch and the wear rate of the discs depend only on the driver.
A clutch of the same quality and manufacturer can last 5,000 km for one driver, and 100,000 for another. Participation in drag racing, frequent slipping, abrupt starting at high speeds, ingress of foreign liquids and objects, unqualified installation and adjustment clutch - all this reduces the life of the clutch.
How to check the clutch?
The clutch is checked using already proven and reliable folk methods, and only by them. Naturally, in addition to disassembling the clutch. We are talking about how you can check the clutch of your car yourself, and then decide whether you need a more in-depth diagnostic with dismantling the clutch mechanism.
So, let's start checking the clutch on the main points.
Clutch slippage. Those. again we are talking about wear on the driven disk when it is not fully pressed against the flywheel, which means there is no full clutch.
- We put the car on the handbrake and start the engine;
- engage a higher gear: 3rd or 4th;
- slowly depress the clutch and “give” the gas;
- When the handbrake is adjusted, the car engine should stall. If this does not happen, then it is time to think about replacing the clutch disc.
The clutch “drives” , i.e. it doesn't turn off completely. This malfunction is accompanied by difficult gear shifting, or extraneous noises and sounds when changing gears. And the gearbox is hardly to blame here. Checking the clutch.
- the engine is idling;
- Depress the clutch pedal completely and engage first or reverse gear;
- If the gear is engaged with uncharacteristic effort, and at the same time you hear extraneous sounds, then the driven disk does not completely move away from the flywheel, i.e. the clutch “drives”;
- you need to pump the hydraulics and adjust the free play of the clutch pedal;
- check again, if nothing has changed, then it’s time to go to a car service for a more in-depth diagnosis of the clutch.
Using these simple methods, you can independently check the clutch before it fails at the most inopportune moment. Timely diagnostics, and even better - correct operation, will increase the life of the clutch, or take timely measures to eliminate malfunctions.
Good luck on your journey.
Clutch replacement
When replacing a basket or disk, you cannot do without removing the gearbox. That is, the box itself can remain almost in the same place; it will only need to be moved a distance sufficient for the gearbox input shaft to exit the clutch basket. However, for more convenient work, and for the purpose of visual inspection and possible replacement of elements such as the clutch housing, gearbox input shaft oil seal and rear crankshaft oil seal, it is better to remove the gearbox.
The price of VAZ 2107 spare parts, which may have to be replaced in this case, is not that high, and the time required to re-disassemble them to replace them will cost much more. The work is carried out on an inspection pit, overpass or lift. In general, first things first.
To dismantle the clutch, it is necessary to perform the following preparatory work:
- Removing the starter.
- Disconnecting the gearshift lever from the gearbox.
- Removing the cardan shaft.
- Disconnecting the clutch slave cylinder and the speedometer drive (flexible shaft) from the gearbox.
- Removing the terminals (chips) from the sensor responsible for turning on the reversing lights.
- Removing the exhaust system mounting from the gearbox.
- Unscrewing the bolts that attach the gearbox to the engine.
- Disconnecting the rear cushion (traverse) securing the gearbox to the body.
Next, you need to move the gearbox away from the engine to a distance sufficient for the input shaft to exit the clutch basket and rest it on the exhaust pipe of the car's exhaust system. To completely remove the gearbox, before unscrewing the bolts attaching the gearbox to the engine, it is necessary to additionally disconnect the exhaust pipe (pants) from the exhaust manifold.
All work on replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch in the same or slightly modified order was filmed long ago and posted on the Internet. So, if you wish, you can always familiarize yourself with it.
Once access to the VAZ 2107 clutch basket is gained, you can remove and replace it. We unscrew the bolts securing the basket to the flywheel and remove the clutch.
When performing the list of works, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- When removing the starter, you don’t have to disconnect the electrical wires from it, but you need to stop the power supply from the battery;
- before dismantling the propeller shaft, it is necessary to mark on it the location of the hinge fork in relation to the flange of the main gear;
- When disconnecting the flexible speedometer drive shaft, do not allow it to bend excessively;
- in the case of installing the same clutch basket, before removing it, it is necessary to note (with chalk, paint, a chisel or a center punch) its position relative to the flywheel in order to install it in the same way;
- To avoid deformation of the clutch casing during dismantling, evenly unscrewing the fastening bolts, 1-2 turns at a time, will help;
- if the flywheel rotates when unscrewing the basket mounting bolts, you can use a pry bar as a lever to hold it in place;
- During subsequent assembly, it is important to correctly install the clutch disc. Its larger protrusion should face the basket.
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The easiest way to remove the gearbox
VAZ 2106
On a classic VAZ, the clutch can fail for various reasons, and the problem may not necessarily be in the basket or disc; often the cause of failure is the clutch of the slave or master cylinder (MCC). Signs of a faulty GCC:
VAZ 2109
On front-wheel drive VAZ 2108-09 cars, the clutch changes in approximately the same way as on a VAZ classic, with the only difference being the removal and installation of the transmission. on the “nine” there is no driveshaft, and you will have to remove the wheel drives (CV joints). There is also a difference. The VAZ 2109 has a cable drive (all “classics” have a hydraulic drive). Replacing the VAZ 2109 clutch is a little more complicated than the 2101-07 model, and therefore the work takes more time.
Is it necessary to remove the gearbox?
Car enthusiasts on the forums warn that it is impossible to replace the basket or disc without dismantling the VAZ-2107 gearbox, but experts immediately correct it - it is not always necessary to remove the gearbox; in most cases, it is enough to slightly pull out the gearbox and do this so that the input shaft comes out unhindered clutch baskets.
This option is the most convenient, but only if you are sure what exactly the problem is. Auto mechanics, when getting to work, prefer to inspect the entire device; there will probably be shortcomings, which will also soon make themselves felt, and therefore the clutch will have to be changed again. A visual inspection should be carried out for the following components:
- clutch housing;
- oil seal suitable for the primary type gearbox shaft;
- crankshaft oil seal located at the rear.
Check the serviceability of the brake system; in the VAZ-2107 it often malfunctions.
When is it necessary to change?
The clutch system allows the car to move off smoothly, removing the load from the engine, which reduces wear on its parts and extends its service life. Overloads are caused by an inertial moment formed during the rotation of parts of the power unit if the crankshaft speed has sharply decreased.
VAZ 2107 assembly diagram
There is no specific time frame for replacing the unit, since the service life of this device mainly depends on operating conditions and the driver’s driving style. It is recommended to diagnose the device after 80 thousand km.
Signs of a broken clutch
Problems with the clutch mechanism can be easily identified by vibration, noise or other external signs. The most common ones are:
- it is difficult or impossible to switch the gearbox with the car running;
- crackling and noise in the gearbox when changing gears;
- the clutch “drives” - the car moves when the speed is turned on, even if the clutch pedal is fully depressed;
- the clutch slips - when you press the gas, especially at 4-5 speeds when driving uphill, the engine speed increases without increasing the vehicle speed;
- jerking and vibration when the clutch operates;
- noise when releasing the clutch pedal.
To fix the problem, the clutch needs to be repaired or replaced. You can replace the elements of the clutch hydraulic drive and bleed it yourself, without having high qualifications in repair work. The VAZ 2107 clutch basket can also be removed quite easily.
However, before removing the gearbox and disassembling the clutch assembly, you should make sure that this is where the reason lies. You should start by adjusting the clutch, checking for brake fluid leaks from the working and master cylinders and visually checking the functionality of the hydraulic drive.
To replace the cylinders and hydraulic clutch hose, there is no need to disassemble the unit itself. The same applies to bleeding the drive to remove air from the system.
What is a clutch fork?
The clutch fork (hereinafter referred to as BC) is an important component of the transmission system of any vehicle. Scientifically speaking, this element transmits pressure from the slave cylinder or clutch cable to, ensuring the movement of the car. The bearing itself is the transmission component between the clutch and the drive, which is physically located on the release clutch. It is the clutch fork that ensures the movement of the clutch and bearing.
New aircraft for VAZ 2107
In most cases, VAZ 2107 cars are equipped with a single-plate clutch, the operation of which is ensured by a special drive. Double-disc clutches are usually installed on more powerful vehicles and trucks. But this does not mean at all that the VAZ 2107 cannot have a double-disc element.
In any case, when you press the clutch pedal, the drive ensures the movement of the aircraft, which, in turn, acts on the bearing. The latter, as a result of moving the fork, presses on the petals of the spring element of the pressure plate. The spring bends towards the flywheel, simultaneously disconnecting from the pressure plate, thereby freeing it. At this moment, special tangential springs press the pressure plate, as a result of which the transmission of torque from the vehicle engine to the gearbox unit stops.
When the driver releases the clutch pedal, the pressure plate begins to interact with the driven components as well as the flywheel. At this time, torque is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox, which occurs due to friction forces. This process of clutch functioning is in no way possible without a working fork. The BC for the “classics”, which is 2107, is shaped like a slingshot.
New and old forks for VAZ 2107
Clutch kit price
Now, in the era of the development of the Internet, there is no need to run to stores and look for the necessary spare part. It is enough to have access to the World Wide Web and you will have any detail in a couple of clicks. Prices for clutch discs for the VAZ-2107 vary from 470 to 2000 rubles. The cost of replacement work in Moscow and the Moscow region is 2–2.5 thousand rubles.
What advice can you give when choosing a disk? First, rummage through the forums and read reviews. Secondly, when purchasing a disc, do not be lazy to inspect it. Examine the splines especially carefully - there should be no nicks or burrs there, otherwise there is a risk that the disk simply will not fit on the shaft or will not be removed during the next replacement.
Take a look at the friction linings: they should all be uniform in composition and free of cracks. Another point is the quality of the riveting. The key to quality here is the identical dimensions of the flange. Try to swing the damper springs; if there is play, then you should refuse the purchase. And the last thing worth paying attention to is the presence of markings on the damper plate.
What should you pay attention to to clarify the diagnosis of clutch failure?
When accelerating or braking the car to change gears in the gearbox, the crankshaft is constantly disconnected and connected to the power transmission. This operation is performed very often and intensively, so over time the signs of a clutch malfunction become more and more obvious. All clutch malfunctions are divided into two general types: incomplete engagement of the clutch (driving) and incomplete disengagement of the clutch (slips).
Any experienced car owner knows how to check the clutch for complete disengagement. To do this, start the engine at low speeds, fully depress the clutch pedal and engage first gear. If it engages easily, then the clutch has completely disengaged the drive - everything is in order.
When you hear the smell of burning while driving, on a steep climb the car suddenly loses speed, and in general, it accelerates poorly - “slipping” of the clutch is obvious. That is, the clutch does not disengage completely - both discs do not close tightly enough.
A very simple and at the same time very reliable way to independently diagnose clutch problems:
First, warm up the engine so that the cold, thick oil does not create additional resistance. Next, the car is put on the handbrake. This should be done on a flat surface, without steep slopes. After this, the engine is accelerated to 1500-1700 rpm, the clutch pedal is depressed, first gear is engaged, and then the pedal is smoothly released.
As a result, the engine should stall. The engine does not stall, or the engine stalls after some time - the clutch definitely requires repair or replacement.
Replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107
Welcome! The clutch is one of the important parts of the car, because with its help we change gears. The main job of this unit is to disconnect it from the flywheel while squeezing the clutch and for further switching the box. This unit looks like two disks on top of one of which there is a clutch housing, and the clutch also includes a release bearing and clutch assembly. But over time, one of the disks or the release bearing itself becomes unusable, which is why they will need to be replaced.
When should you change the clutch? During operation, the clutch of any car wears out over time, and the first signs of a worn clutch that a car will show are:
1. Increased noise which begins to appear very clearly when changing gears in the car.
2. Jerks can also occur when starting off in a car, and they can also occur while driving when you depress the clutch pedal, then engage a gear, and then when you release the pedal, your car jerks forward a little.
Note! This mainly happens due to the damper springs that are installed on the driven disk, and in the photo below they are shown by arrows. These springs are needed so that the clutch disengages smoothly and thus does not cause discomfort when driving, and when these springs become unusable, when the clutch is disengaged, as mentioned earlier, a jerk occurs, which often has a very negative effect on the comfort of driving a car!
3. In addition to all this, if the clutch malfunctions, the effect that the clutch “slips” may occur. This is when you are driving a car and at the same time you press the gas pedal, let’s say to the floor, and your car does not accelerate, but the engine speed increases sharply and even reaches the red zone, this effect is popularly called the clutch “Slipping”.
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4. And in conclusion, let’s note another effect called the “Leads” clutch. The first signs of this effect are as follows: let’s say you engage first gear and at this time the clutch pedal is still fully depressed, but even despite this the car starts to roll. This effect is called the “Leads” clutch.
How to replace the clutch on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?
Note! Before you start replacing, be sure to make sure that the clutch malfunction is not caused by any other reasons, because replacing this unit itself is very labor-intensive and time-consuming compared to replacing the same clutch slave cylinder, due to which the same problem may occur. the effect that the clutch “Drives”! (If you want to take a closer look at the malfunctions of a particular unit of the entire clutch system, then use the “Search” form, which is located in the upper right corner of the site, and enter into the search the malfunction that you specifically need, for example: “Clutch is slipping” and you will get all results in which this combination of words was found)
Removal: 1) First, to get to the clutch itself, you will need to remove the box for this. (For information on how to remove the box, see the article entitled “Replacing the gearbox on a VAZ”)
2) Next, after the box is removed, pick up the purchased mandrel for centering the clutch disc, and then install it in the central hole as shown in the photo.
Note! The mandrel must be installed all the way until it rests on the crankshaft bearing!
3) Then, to prevent the flywheel from turning, screw one thick bolt, which is indicated under the letter “B,” into the lower left side of the block, and then using a screwdriver to secure the flywheel from turning “A,” unscrew all the bolts that secure the housing and the clutch pressure plate itself.
Note! When unscrewing the bolts securing the casing and the clutch pressure plate itself, hold this same disc by its casing so that it does not turn! (Please note that you only need to hold the disk by the casing, because if you, for example, grab the thrust flange of the pressure spring with your hand, you can easily damage it, so hold only the casing with your hands)
4) Next, remove the clutch pressure plate together with the casing, but when removing it, hold it with both hands by its casing.
5) After removing the clutch pressure plate along with its casing, proceed to removing the driven disc, to do this, take the installed disc in your hands and then remove it together with the mandrel from the place where it is installed.
Note! By the way! If you didn’t understand where you needed to insert the mandrel earlier, then we indicated this place for you with a blue arrow in the photo just above!
Installation: 1) Installation of a new clutch occurs in the reverse order of removal.
Note! Install a new clutch carefully and be sure to center the position of the drive plate using a mandrel when installing the pressure plate!
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At the request of my friend Misha (silenced), I am publishing brief instructions on how to replace the clutch on a VAZ 2108,09,099,13,14,15. I carried out work on the car from 9.30 to 13.00.
So let's get started: Disconnect the battery. (On injection machines, remove the air filter housing) Remove the left engine fender. Unlocking and unscrewing the hub nuts on both sides. Jack up and unscrew the left wheel. Unscrew the two ball mounting bolts. Remove the drive from the hub.
Any car sooner or later needs repair, and if the gears in the gearbox are tightly engaged, most likely the problem lies in the failure of the clutch. Replacing it with VAZ cars. The task is simple, but quite labor-intensive and requires certain skills of a locksmith.
VAZ 2112
The difference between VAZ 2112 and VAZ 2110 cars is the same as between 2115 and 2114:
It follows that replacing the VAZ 2112 clutch is carried out according to the same principle as on the 2110 model. From the above, we can conclude that on all front-wheel drive vehicles of the VAZ 2108-15 family, the replacement work is practically the same. the same, the difference is only in the details.
Typical clutch faults
Often, a basket malfunction is a curvature or breakage of its petals, or loss of elasticity of the pressure springs. In some cases, the basket can be repaired. The VAZ 2107 clutch disc requires repair or replacement if it is deformed, worn, broken or significantly scuffed the friction linings, weakened or broken damper springs. A failed release bearing is replaced with a new one; it cannot be repaired.
Associated malfunctions that can be detected during repair or replacement of the clutch are oil leakage through the crankshaft seal or gearbox input shaft, wear of the drive fork or clutch slave cylinder. Oil leakage through the seals causes oiling of the driven disk, which can cause it to slip. Signs that the VAZ 2107 clutch is slipping are a decrease in traction and dynamics during acceleration, as well as the appearance of a specific smell.
How to change the clutch of a VAZ 2107
When performing this operation, you cannot do without a lift or inspection hole. Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the ground from the battery to prevent a short circuit.
The procedure is as follows:
- Remove the gearshift lever by pressing on it and using a screwdriver to pry up the plastic locking sleeve. Important: during the work, you should carefully inspect each part and replace it if damaged or worn.
- Disconnect the vehicle exhaust pipe from the resonator.
- Unscrew the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder to the gearbox housing and disconnect it.
If there is a brake fluid leak from the working cylinder, replace it (after replacing the clutch cylinders, it is necessary to bleed the system). The same goes for the clutch master cylinder.
- Unscrew the bolts and nuts securing the cardan to the gearbox and disconnect it.
- Disconnect the ground wire and the reverse lamp wire from the transmission.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the gearbox, uncouple it and move it to the side.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine.
Note: The VAZ 2107 gearbox weighs about 26 kg, so it is better to remove it together with a partner.
- Carefully pull out the gearbox.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the VAZ 2107 clutch baskets and remove it.
- Inspect the basket and disc for damage and wear.
Wear of the basket on the inside and wear of the disk are determined by compliance with the geometric dimensions specified in the instruction manual. If the antennae of the box break, they can be re-riveted rather than changing the basket.
The clutch may slip due to oil contamination of the disc. In this case, it needs to be cleaned or replaced.
Oil contamination can also cause jerking and vibration when the clutch is engaged. They can also occur when the splines are worn out, the damper spring or driven disk is bent. In this case, only replacing the faulty part will help.
The VAZ 2107 clutch is installed in the reverse order of removal.
Sometimes it can be difficult to get the gearbox shaft into the splines on the clutch disc. This happens if the clutch disc is installed offset relative to the axis of symmetry. In this case, it is unacceptable to use force to “push” the gearbox shaft.
To install the clutch disc along the axis of symmetry, a special tool should be used when installing it.
We repair it ourselves (VAZ classic)
We replace the DS and KS on a rear-wheel drive VAZ as follows:
- place the car on a car lift or pit;
- turn off the engine, put the car in neutral gear;
- remove the gearbox lever mounting cover (unscrew the screws);
- we dismantle only the upper part of the gearbox lever; there is no need to remove it completely (we disconnect it at the place marked by the arrow in the figure);
- unscrew the propeller shaft bolts, dismantle the shaft itself (make marks on the cardan and rear axle gearbox - this is necessary in order to secure the shaft according to the same marks during installation to avoid unnecessary vibrations);
- disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox, as well as the control center;
- unscrew all the gearbox fasteners (including the traverse), remove the gearbox;
- unscrew the six bolts securing the basket, remove the parts;
- We put new parts in place and put everything back together.
Replacement
So, having purchased a new clutch disc, we proceed to install it. In order to slightly reduce the labor intensity, we will perform the replacement without removing the box. We carry out the work on an overpass or inspection pit.
Getting started with labor feats, we will carry out the preparatory stage:
- Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder.
- We unhook the cardan from the gearbox.
- Unscrew the speedometer cable.
- Disconnect the wires of the reversing lights from the contact group on the gearbox.
- We disconnect the clutch housing from the cylinder block and the cross member of the rear engine mount from the body.
Now we move directly to the main stage of our work - replacing the clutch disc:
- We unscrew the nuts securing the gearbox support, move it back so that the gearshift lever rests against the back of the floor hole. The front part of the box will be held by the muffler, and a reliable support must be placed under the rear part.
- Holding the flywheel with a mounting tool, unscrew the clutch housing mounting bolts, turning the crankshaft to gain access to them.
- We move the clutch basket and remove the used driven disc, replacing it with a new one. Before installation, wipe the new disk and flywheel with a rag soaked in gasoline.
- The installed disk must be adjusted relative to the center of the bearing at the end of the crankshaft.
We carry out further assembly in the reverse order, not forgetting to adjust the free play of the clutch pedal afterwards.
Replacing the clutch disc VAZ 2107
First you need to make the right choice of workplace. This could be an overpass, a lift or an inspection hole. If it is not possible to use these workstations, the car can be jacked up to provide access to the clutch from below. At the same time, do not forget about safety precautions - the wheels must be securely fixed and the car must be put on the hand brake so that the car does not roll during operation.
tools, devices, consumables
Before starting repair work, you must prepare the following tools and materials:
• Set of keys. • Screwdrivers – flat and figured. • Pliers. • Clean rags. • Jack. • Repair kit or new clutch assembly.
When buying a new repair kit, you should not save money - buy original spare parts, preferably in a set.
sequence of repair work, advice from the pros
It should be noted that replacing the clutch means a worn out and failed clutch basket, disc, and release bearing. At the same time or in a separate case, the master and slave cylinders, the fork, or the clutch hose may fail. After replacing the clutch or its individual parts, the clutch will most likely need to be adjusted.
If you have to replace the clutch basket or disc, you will have to partially dismantle the gearbox. The box remains in its place, it is only moved a little to the side. In some cases (for convenience, inspection and replacement of the clutch housing, input shaft oil seal, etc.), the box will still have to be removed completely.
In order to remove a faulty clutch, it is necessary to perform the following preparatory work:
• Remove the starter. • Disconnect the shift lever from the gearbox. • Disconnect the propeller shaft.
• Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder and the speedometer flexible shaft from the gearbox. • Remove the terminals or chips from the sensor that turns on the lighting when reverse gear is engaged. • Disconnect the exhaust system from the gearbox.
• Remove the bolts that secure the gearbox to the engine. • Disconnect the rear cushion (beam), through which the gearbox is attached to the body.
After carrying out the above manipulations, the gearbox is carefully moved to the side at a distance sufficient for the input shaft to be disconnected from the basket, and carefully rest it on the exhaust pipe of the car.
To remove the gearbox completely, before unscrewing the bolts that secure the gearbox to the engine, disconnect the exhaust pipe (pants) from the engine exhaust manifold.
Once access to the VAZ 2107 clutch basket is opened, it can be replaced or repaired. To do this, unscrew the bolts that attach the basket to the flywheel and remove the clutch.
During the work process, be sure to pay attention to the following points:
• When dismantling the starter, it is not necessary to disconnect the wires from it; you just need to remove the terminals from the battery. • Before disconnecting the universal joint, marks are placed on it regarding the position of the joint fork relative to the flange of the vehicle's final drive gear. • When removing the flexible speedometer drive, do not bend it too much. • If the basket is to be reinstalled after repair, before dismantling it, use paint, chalk, a chisel or a center punch to mark the position of the unit relative to the flywheel. This is necessary in order to install the basket in the same position. • To ensure that the clutch housing does not become deformed during dismantling, the mounting bots must be unscrewed evenly, 1-2 turns. • If, when unscrewing the bolts that secure the clutch basket, the flywheel begins to spin, you can use a pry bar as a lever to fix it.
• When assembling the clutch, it is very important to install the disc without errors. The large lip of the disc should face the basket. As is clear from all of the above, replacing the “seven” clutch is not a very difficult task and can be done on your own.
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- In general, today I was driving and hit the front and filled it with 2105 antifreeze, low.
We share our experience in repairing VAZ cars, summer has come, VAZ-21053 in good condition, 1997. 21053, 2005 mileage 120,000 km, 5-speed manual transmission. In Lada Riva, it was a copy only the steering column was on the right side. quickly why 21099. Too engine injector 2009 release Community discussion model 21074 2006 black truffle; was the engine type. 2114 not working What is the reason?! ? Ignition coil distributor contacts, 2105
Additionally: Selling VAZ 21053, 2006. carburetor Valid insurance until January 17, 2022 Engine, suspension, transmission, interior in O.T.S., there are some bumps on the body, was not involved in an accident. There is an alarm with a central locking system, the trunk can be opened with a key fob, windshields, music, a tow bar, tinting, winter Japanese wipers (new), a new windshield (the old one had a crack when I bought it), 220V boiler, covers, new door upholstery, new rear tires - Bridgestone (Japan), before Henkok (Korea) 1 season, also has summer tires on cast, there is a roof rack. Electronic ignition, gear starter, canister spacer. In the summer, the timing chain, damper, and tensioner were replaced. Adjustment of valves, replacement of all hoses, pump, thermostat, fluid. The internal combustion engine runs smoothly and does not use oil at all. For the transmission, replacement of: rear oil seal CV, bearing CV, clutch disc, release bearing. There are no gear shifts through the gearbox, and the rear axle gearbox does not make noise. Regarding the suspension: replacement of springs, shock absorbers, on the rear there are spacers for springs and extensions for shock absorbers, the ball joint sealing blocks have also been replaced, the exhaust system has been completely replaced. It's hot in the cabin, there's a new stove, the heating system has been sealed. I didn’t delay repairs or accumulate damage, so the car is OTS for its age. There will be no problems with registration (since all seat belts, mudguards and a whole windshield without cracks are present) I’m not in a hurry to sell because I have a second car in the family.
