Fuse diagram gas 31105 with chrysler euro engine panel

GAZ 31105, popularly called Volga , is an updated version of the GAZ 3110 model. It was produced in 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, mainly with injection engines. Since 2006, Chrysler engines have even been installed. In this article we will show the location of the blocks and a description of fuses and relays Gas 31105 Chrysler, with diagrams and photo examples of execution. Note the fuse responsible for the cigarette lighter. The GAZ-3102
“Volga Zero Second”
model is made on a common platform with 31105, so the purpose of the blocks is largely the same.

Depending on the year of manufacture, different designs of blocks and the purpose of their elements are possible.

GAZ 31105 / 3102 fuses and relays

GAZ 31105, popularly called Volga , is an updated version of the GAZ 3110 model. It was produced in 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009, mainly with injection engines. Since 2006, Chrysler engines have even been installed. In this article we will show the location of the blocks and a description of fuses and relays Gas 31105 Chrysler, with diagrams and photo examples of execution. Note the fuse responsible for the cigarette lighter. The GAZ-3102 “Volga Zero Second”
model is made on a common platform with 31105, so the purpose of the blocks is largely the same.

Depending on the year of manufacture, different designs of blocks and the purpose of their elements are possible.

Original parts and their analogues: which is better

Today on the market all parts, including starters, are divided into two main categories:

The former have an undeniable advantage - the likelihood of purchasing unsuitable equipment is reduced to a minimum. But their cost is 30-100% higher than their analogues. The latter sometimes have a resource of slightly worse quality than the original ones. But the price is much lower. Original starter:

There are a large number of analogues on the market. All of them differ in quality, both for the better and for the worse, from the original Chrysler part. The following have proven themselves to be good:

Blocks in the cabin

Fuse box

Option 1

It is located in the cabin, above the glove compartment and consists of two parts. To access, you need to slide the protective strip.

Photo - diagram

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Fuse number 8 at 20A is responsible for the cigarette lighter.

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Blocks under the hood

Under the hood there are some additional elements of fuses and relays Gas 31105 Chrysler.

Fuse box

It is mounted on the left mudguard and consists of fusible links, closed with a protective cover.

Scheme

Purpose

1. 60 A protects the anti-lock brake system (ABS) circuit;
2. 60 A for almost all power supply circuits of vehicle consumers, except for the starter circuit and those protected by the remaining fuses of the unit;
3. 40 A power supply circuit for vehicle lighting and light signaling;
4. 90 A circuit of the battery, generator, electric headlight washer (if equipped) and the power circuit of the electric radiator fan of the engine cooling system.

On vehicles not equipped with ABS brakes and manufactured before July 2006, fuse No. 1 was not used.

Since July 2006, through this fuse, terminal “A29” of the engine control unit has been connected to the generator, through which the function of controlling the excitation current of the generator is carried out (voltage adjustment in the vehicle’s on-board network).

Starter relay gas 31105 where are they located?

The starter relay is located in the passenger compartment, on the driver's side. You need to remove the plastic cover near the left leg, the relay block will open. The starter relay is located just below the light switch relay. To put it simply, there are 7 relays, 4 small, 3 large, the ground is connected to one of the small ones with a wire that has a male-female connector in the middle, so it is the starter relay. If I’m not mistaken, then the marking on it should be 711.3747 or 711.3747-01 . Not to be confused with PC711, this is a light switching relay, it is larger and has more wires going to it.

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Wipers do not work on the Volga

True, there are cases when the thermal fuse plate, as a result of overheating, becomes deformed, which is why, after it cools down, the contacts do not automatically close, which leads to a break in the power supply circuit of the wiper motor, and they stop working. This fault is very similar to a blown fuse protecting this electronic circuit.

When the wipers refuse to work in intermittent mode, the cause of the malfunction may be the failure of the relay, through which, exclusively in this mode, power is supplied to the terminals of the windshield wiper motor. On the Volga GAZ-3110 you can find it in the relay block, which is located behind a plastic cover in the area of ​​the driver’s left foot. It is located in the first row (if the countdown is from the engine), 2nd from the bottom.

Connected and tested, the result is obvious))

I also connected the steering column from the gazelle, the relay remains original, the pause works, there is nothing complicated with the connection, all contacts are numbered, cut and connect))

In general, everything worked out, let's move on.

Fundamental differences in the design of the fuse box depending on the Gazelle model

This is what the new fuse box looks like

The design differences of the modification of the Gazelle class, based on various electrical equipment protection systems, can be divided into the following main groups and their features can be highlighted. Watch the video on how to install a new fuse box.

Cars with carburetor-type gasoline engines

1. Cars produced before 2003:
   equipped with old-style electrical fuse modules with cylindrical type fuses with a nominal value of 8 and 16A;
2. control relays are installed separately from the mounting block;
3. the engine compartment block (BPR-2) has power fuses of 40A for the light circuit and 60A for the general plus.

4. Models 2003-2010:
   new-style units with plastic fuses with protection thresholds of 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25A were installed, depending on the equipment;
5. control relays are also located independently of the unit;
6. the power protection module can be different: BPR-2 with protection of 90A for the light and generator circuits and 60A for the general plus.

7. BPR-4 for cars with a pre-installed anti-lock braking system and additional 25 and 40 A electrical fuses.

Cars with gasoline injection engines

1. The main fuses of plastic type 25, 10, 15, 20 and 5A for various circuits are combined into a single mounting module located in the cab.
2. The main control relays are included in the unit.

This is what control relays look like for a Gazelle car

Installation process of protective relays

Unloading wipers — GAZ 31, 2.3 l., 2006 on DRIVE2

For those who are too lazy to read, and also for those who want to see the work of the wipers before and after the alteration, there is a small

For some reason I’ve been making frequent notes, but damn, you’ll be floundering in the middle of the sea in a tin can, and then in a short stop there’s so much I’d ​​like to do and I’ll tell you that now in the rain, fortunately it’s summer and warm, I decided to slightly treat the windshield wipers)

So, problems with wipers have been haunting me since my first trip to Moscow, since then the problem with them has gotten very worse, but I was too lazy to get into it.

With great difficulty I found an old wiper relay in the garage and returned it to its place.

For a couple of days everything was amazing - the wipers worked, did not hover among the glass and seemed to be waving more or less cheerfully, but then glitches suddenly began - they might not turn on, they might not turn off, they might freeze, in short, nope.

Apparently, lying in the garage did not add life to the relay

I bought a new relay, it has a slightly different shape and with a different number, but it works correctly

ideas for unloading wipers. part — GAZ 31, 2.4 l., 2007 on DRIVE2

there was time and a donor to experiment with unloading the wipers on the 3110 1998 model year. (a friend’s car, he currently drives mine). The wipers barely crawled across the glass. I googled the diagram for the windshield wiper relay from a gazelle n/o:

At the same time I was going to unload the wipers. I know 3 types of them. 1) power the common positive wire directly from the battery:

This circuit supplies voltage from the battery directly to the standard wiring circuit, bypassing unnecessary meters of wire. It didn't seem very effective to me. The load on the controls remains, although lower than standard, but still large. put it aside for storage. but in vain. why in vain you, dear readers, will find out a little later.

2) “ the janitor is a booster of the Kuvaldych-Romanov) this method was eliminated by a friend. motivating this by the lack of 1st (or 2nd, depending on which way you look at it) speed. I'm not going to implement it yet. This is what the diagram looks like:

www.drive2.ru/l/1914674/ - diagram and description taken from the user SledgeHammer. I hope I didn't offend him with this.

3) this scheme greatly relieves all windshield wiper control elements. With its help, the windshield wiper motor is powered from the battery:

as if this is the most effective scheme. I practiced it on my own Italian (there seem to be Lancias in the BZ). I did not get proper work from it. The wipers did not stop after turning off. there is no pause at all. Then I was happy for the most powerful motor (as I had planned) and returned to the initial version. Now I’ve concocted one for the Volga - we connect it - the situation repeats itself. I warned my friend about possible trouble. on the standard circuit, his wipers barely moved on the glass at 1st speed. relay increases speed to 1st galactic