Alternator belt VAZ 2110 8 valves size

Welcome! Alternator belt - on cars of the tenth family it goes to only two pulleys, namely the generator pulley and the crankshaft pulley, thanks to it torque is transferred from the crankshaft to the generator, thanks to which when the car is running (When the crankshaft is spinning), the car is charged, the battery is charged, and also the current is supplied to the on-board network of the car (This is a tape recorder, windshield cleaning brushes, etc.), therefore, when the engine is started, the battery no longer makes sense to supply current to the on-board network (It makes sense when the generator can handle it won’t, that is, music plays loudly when the subbuffer is on and similar situations), thanks to which the battery does not run out and the voltage in the network is kept at one constant level.

Note! To replace the alternator belt, you will need a minimum of time and a minimum set of tools, which includes: Wrenches or, even better, if you have ring wrenches, then stock up on them, because they are much easier to use and the likelihood of breaking the nuts will be much less!

Where is the alternator belt located? As we have already said, it is placed on two pulleys, one pulley rotates (This is the crankshaft pulley) and due to this, the belt is also set in motion, thereby the second pulley also begins to rotate (Both pulleys, by the way, are indicated by arrows, the same crankshaft pulley is shown in red, and blue generator pulley), in general, for clarity, in the bottom photo the belt itself can be clearly seen, as well as the generator and the place where it is installed.

When should you change the alternator belt? From time to time it needs to be checked, to do this, of course, you will have to remove it, but it can be removed very easily and you will spend more than 5 minutes on the entire check, so when the belt is removed, begin the inspection, there should be no cracks or marks on it ruptures, in addition, the material of the generator belt itself should be rubber, and not rough (That is, there should be no signs of hardening of the rubber), and if you have a toothed one, then make sure that the teeth are not worn out and are in normal condition.

Alternator belt VAZ 2110 8 valves size

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The alternator belt transmits rotation from the crankshaft to the alternator to produce electrical energy in the network. This part is a consumable item as it cannot be repaired. A break in this belt will immobilize the vehicle.

Attention! This belt is intended for cars of the tenth family, as well as Lada Samara and Samara 2 with an 8-valve engine!

Alternator belt dimensions VAZ 2110-215, Kalina, Priora

There are a lot of sizes of alternator belts, it seems that they made a separate belt for a specific model, but there are several sizes that are most often used and are suitable for all models of the tenth family.

Let's start, perhaps, with the general model of a wide multi-ribbed belt, which was installed on standard VAZ models and the first generators:

• VAZ 2108 – VAZ 2115 size – 698 mm.

Models without power steering and air conditioning:

• VAZ 2110 – VAZ 2112 size – 742 mm.

Next is the Kalina VAZ 1118 option:

• Without power steering and air conditioning Size – 882 mm.

• With air conditioning, size – 1005 mm.

VAZ 2110 – VAZ 2112, as well as VAZ 1118 (Kalina), VAZ 2170 (Priora) with power steering:

VAZ 2110 with air conditioning:

These are the most basic sizes that will definitely fit a particular brand.

Selecting a belt manufacturer

Today, choosing a manufacturer of a particular spare part can be quite difficult due to the fairly wide selection. But if we look at the statistics of many car owners and service stations, we can conclude that the highest quality belts for driving auxiliary units are:

BRT - Balakovo Rubber Equipment, often installed from the assembly line
GATES - often also a factory option
Bosch - has a fairly wide range of products, including belts, and the quality is quite high
LUZAR
ANDYCAR

If we consider the most trouble-free belts, then according to statistics from surveys of motorists and service station technicians, we can conclude that the highest quality ones are produced by GATES and domestic BRT.

Replacement

To change the belt, it is better to remove the front right wheel, hang the front part, remove the crankcase protection (standard or installed independently), then:

Loosen the nuts securing the generator;
Unscrew the adjusting bolt as much as possible;
We move the generator as close to the cylinder block as possible;
We remove the old belt and put on a new one.

Next, we adjust the tension and tighten everything. At this point the repair can be considered complete.

How to replace the alternator belt on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

1) First you need to somehow make the generator move, to do this you need to loosen the upper (Indicated by a red arrow) and lower nut (Indicated by a white arrow) that secure the generator (Just loosen them, there is no need to turn anything out completely), as soon as this is done done, start rotating the adjusting bolt in the direction in which you exactly need (indicated by a blue arrow), that is, if you tighten the adjusting bolt, thereby rotating it clockwise, the belt will be tensioned and the generator itself will move away from the cylinder block, if you decide unscrew the adjusting bolt, the belt will loosen and the generator itself will move closer to the block at this time, so you can remove it (When the generator rests all the way against the cylinder block), so immediately unscrew it, take off the belt and install it in its place new.

2) After installing the new belt, adjust it, it is done using the same adjusting bolt, so once the belt is installed, rotate this bolt clockwise until the belt is tensioned to the required tension, and the required tension is when the belt bends by 10-15 mm (1-1.5 cm) with a force of 100 N (10 kg), if suddenly the tension is greater (Like a string, for example), then after a while the bearings of the generator will become unusable and it will have to be removed and disassembled to change them for new ones, but if, on the contrary, the belt is weakly tensioned, then when the engine is running, due to the weak tension, the belt will simply spin and thus the charging that the generator provides will not be constant, but variable (either it will give current, or not ).

3) After all the operations performed, we recommend turning the crankshaft (This can be done by rolling the car in fourth gear a little forward) and again checking the tension of the generator belt, if necessary, tighten it or, on the contrary, loosen it, and finally tighten the lower and upper nuts until they stop attaching the generator to the brackets.

Motorists Council

As practice shows, many experienced VAZ 2110 drivers, who have been driving this particular model for many years now, carry an additional alternator belt with them in the trunk. This is due to the fact that its breakdown can occur at the most inopportune moment. This node cannot be called the weakest point of the “ten”, but problems may arise with it. And it is better for you to be prepared for such a situation.

Otherwise, you will have to call a tow truck, go to the nearest service station, and pay a lot of money for the services of specialists. Although, if you have a spare alternator belt and a standard set of tools, if it breaks, you would spend literally a couple of tens of minutes and calmly continue driving with a new belt. Because the choice is always yours!

Reasons for whistling

Let's look at the main reasons why the V-belt connection whistles. They boil down to this:

The belt has low tension. At the same time, he slips, which is especially noticeable at night, when he whistles with special “zeal.” This is due to the fact that at night the generator is forced to work in increased mode, providing the car with light;
The destruction has begun. It dries out and literally begins to fall apart. First, cracks appear, then pieces fall off. At the same time, it also whistles due to the fact that the bullies catch the pulley, contributing to slipping. It needs to be changed urgently;
Moisture ingress occurs quite rarely, and it evaporates during operation. But if at the same time the V-belt connection whistles, this indicates that it is necessary to apply tension;
Wedge of the generator itself.

Adjusting belt tension

Incorrect tension of the alternator belt can have an extremely negative impact on the operation of the components and assemblies that depend on it. Thus, too weak a tension will lead to its slipping, leading to unstable operation of the generator (due to poor transmission of torque) and interruptions in the on-board network (including rapid battery discharge).

On the contrary, an excessively tight belt tension can cause excessive stress on the generator bearings, thereby leading to their rapid wear or even destruction. It is for this reason that the tension value is extremely important and should be checked periodically.

In order to correct it and return the belt to normal operating condition, you need to:

loosen the generator fasteners from below and from above;
turn the adjusting bolt and thus tighten the tension (to increase the tension, rotate the bolt to the right, to loosen it, to the left);
Using a wrench, turn the crankshaft several turns and check the tension;
If the tension is OK, tighten the generator fasteners.

The tension check itself can be done by simply pressing the belt with your hand. If it is tensioned correctly, its deflection will be about 8 mm. If the deflection is greater, the tension should be increased; if it is less, it should be weakened.

You can check the correct tension in another way - just put the multimeter in DC voltage measurement mode with a limit of 20 volts and measure the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running. Stable readings will indicate that the belt is tensioned well (which means that rotation is transmitted smoothly to the generator). If the voltmeter readings fluctuate, the belt tension should be adjusted.

Another clear sign of proper belt tension is that it runs silently. If it moves smoothly, without making a whistle, hum or other extraneous sounds, then everything is fine. If any noise is heard during its operation, it means that the tension was performed incorrectly (in some cases, the cause of the noise may be jamming of the generator, as discussed above.

That is why, if after repeated attempts to adjust the belt tension it is not possible to remove the whistle, you should pay attention to the condition of this device).

Performing tension

If there is no wear on the V-belt drive, but there is a whistle, first of all, check the tension level. We will not use complex terminology, but will simply advise you to press with some force on the belt in the middle.

If the tension is done correctly, then the belt will bend no more than 8 millimeters. If the deflection is greater, then the element will have to be tensioned, and if it practically does not deflect, the tension will have to be loosened.

The problem is not the whistling. Due to weak tension, the battery does not charge effectively, and the drive itself begins to wear out faster. Excessive tension can lead to damage to the alternator bearings and stretching of the belt.

Correct tension of the VAZ 2110 generator belt is performed as follows:

Loosen the generator from the bottom and top. A nut is used for this;
Turn the adjusting bolt and adjust the belt;
If you want to increase the tension, the bolt is turned to the right. Thus, you move the generator away from the cylinder block;
To loosen the tension, move in the opposite direction - to the left;
Use a wrench to grab the fastening bolt and turn the crankshaft a couple of turns, then check the tension;
If all is well, the tension is correct, the nut can be tightened back.

How to tension the alternator belt

If you hear a squeaking sound from under the hood when it rains, or simply when there is high humidity, then most likely the problem is in the tension of the alternator belt. The problem is fixed quite simply. You need to tighten the belt more. In this article we will look at how to do it yourself.

You don’t need much of a tool, you just need a ratchet and a couple of 10 and 13 sockets.

This instruction is suitable not only for the VAZ 2110 model, but also for the VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, since the principle and design of the alternator belt tensioner are similar.

First of all, we look for the generator under the hood. It is located on the left side under the hood when looking at the car from the front. I think there shouldn't be any problems with this.
Now you need to loosen the top nut securing the generator.
Now use the adjusting bolt to tighten the belt.

Alternator belt: choice of brand and length

When the alternator belt wears out quite strongly, many owners begin to think about which manufacturer to choose for the next replacement. We often come across reviews from VAZ 2110 owners who installed new belts and did not have time to drive even 5,000 km, after which they broke in half.

This is a clear sign of low-quality or even defective products, if the tension was normal and there were no external influences.

Sources

https://luxvaz.ru/vaz-2110/54-natyazhka-i-zamena-remnya-generatora.html
https://pts.ru/razmery-remnya-generatora-vaz-2112-16-klapanov/
https://venteler.ru/dlina-remnya-generatora-vaz-2110-16-klapanov-s-konditsionerom/

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Alternator belt sizes

#1 BAPE

Users
47 messages
Registration 30-August 12

Tell me where to find the alternator belt, but it’s a couple of centimeters longer, so it turned out that mine broke and I threw it away without checking the size. the gene adjustment bolt was at the very bottom, when I started installing a regular VAZ belt, it didn’t fit. I can’t move it to the maximum, one part of the gene rests against the engine

I remind you that the usual 938, and the Volgovsky 1025 is very long

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#2 Papa

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716 messages

Registration 23-February 12

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#3 WAZ

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5,756 messages

Registration 27-Jan 08

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#4 BAPE

Users

47 messages

Registration 30-August 12

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#5 maxsinner82

Users

581 messages

Registration 06-March 10

I created this topic because I often do modifications to my machine. The installation of the alternator made it clear that the original belt was too long, and the Moskvich belt, on the contrary, was short. I had to take an old belt and run to several stores. I found something, but forgot the size (I'll see when I get to the car). Maybe someone has access to belt catalogs or there is another practice. Let's drop here verified information about the sizes of mono-V belts that are on sale. Information on which car this belt is installed on is also desirable.

Car make |Width|Thickness|Length

Moskvich-412IE", "Moskvich-2140" | 8.5 | 8 | 875 Gazelle | 11 | 10 | 900 2101-1308020 smooth old style | 10 | 8 | 944 2107-1308020 new type gear | 10.7 | 8 | 944

Message modified: maxsinner82, 10 February 2014 - 15:52. The grammar is lame!

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#6 Bucks

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12,555 messages

Registration 23-August 06

From: Chernigov
Auto: 01, 2106-2pcs, 21213, BMW, Audi

Maybe someone has access to belt catalogs or there is another practice.

CAR PARTS VAZ (factory and Europe) and FOREIGN CAR, IN STOCK AND TO ORDER, delivery from the UAE, Europe, USA. A huge assortment of oils: MOTUL, KROON OIL, COMMA, VATOIL, ZIC, LIQUI MOLY, CASTROL and many others DM or CALL 07311nol2000

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Alternator drive belt for VAZ car

Drive belt for alternator, power steering, timing belt and air conditioner...

Hello dear readers of the blog RtiIvaz.ru. Let's talk today about the generator drive belt, an auto repair kit that should always be kept in stock. A drive belt is an effectively low-cost means of transmitting rotation, which is created by the movement of an engine shaft, to engine auxiliaries such as a generator.

One rubber drive belt drives several units at once: generator, pump, timing belt, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, radiator fan. When operating a car, it is necessary to regularly check the condition of the tires, as well as the tension. To avoid engine breakdowns, you need to replace rubber repair kits in accordance with the machine's maintenance instructions. Video:

Automotive rubber drive belts, simply put, come in several types - wide, narrow, toothed, smooth, each car has its own size and shape. To reduce wear on the side parts and provide integrity, wrapped ones are used; cotton and nylon are used as the outer covering. Toothed belts apply force through transverse teeth and a drive mechanism, maintaining the specified shaft alignment. When operating a car, it is not recommended to lubricate them with oil; they actually do not stretch or vibrate, and last longer than smooth ones.

With the improvement of technology, various types of repair kits began to be produced. For injection cars, multi-strand wide ones are produced, which consist of several drive belts welded together. Due to this design, the load is evenly distributed between the streams; as a result, repair kits for rubber products have an increased service life of the vehicle. It can simultaneously rotate the pulley of the generator, power steering, and air conditioning compressor.

The V-belt is designed to accurately match the rotation speeds of the unit pulleys. Double-sided V-belts have good driving properties. To transmit high powers, poly-V rubber drives are used, which have teeth at the bottom and are flat at the top.

Before buying Lada car belts or other auto repair kits for rubber products, you need to look at such parameters as profile, width, pitch, number of teeth, good quality, width and length dimensions must correspond to the brand of the mechanism being used.

Photos of VAZ car drive belts and their design numbers...

Let's look at a photo of the drive belts for the generator, fan, radiator and water pump of rear wheel drive cars of the classic VAZ 2101-2107 family.

Design number:

2101-1308020 smooth old style size 10x8-944
2107-1308020 gear new sample 10.7x8-944

Lada 2101-2107 “smooth” old model, size 944

Lada 2101-2107 “geared” new model, size 944
Next are photographs of the new type of gear and the old smooth rubber drive of the generator, pump, radiator fan from VAZ 2108 cars - “eights” to -21099 “ninety-nines” with carburetor engines.

Design number:

2108-3701720 size st/arr. smooth 10x8-715
2108-3701720-01 size new/mod. gear 10.7x8-715

Lada 2108 carburetor “smooth” old model, size 715

Lada 2108 carburetor engine “toothed” of a new type, size 715
Photo of a multi-rod wide rubber drive, for transmitting the rotation of the auxiliary units of the engine of the injection VAZ car from 2108 to 2115.

Design number:

21082-3701720 size - 698

Lada 2108 -2115 size 698 “wide”
Photo of a multi-rod wide rubber drive for transmitting rotation of the engine auxiliary units of a fuel-injected VAZ car from 2110 to 2112 without power steering and air conditioning.

Design number:

2110-3701720 size - 742

Lada 2110 -2112 size 742 “wide”
We see below a photograph of the drive belt for the attachments of the Kalina-1118 vehicle without power steering and air conditioning. With air conditioning is the same as in the picture, but the size is a little larger.

Design number:

1118-1041020Р size - 882 (without power steering and air conditioning)
4091.1308020-01 size from 995 to 1054 (1118 with air conditioning)

Lada Kalina size 882 “wide”
Photo picture of a multi-ribbed wide multi-ribbed belt for transmitting rotation of the auxiliary units of the engine of an injection car from VAZ 2110 “tens” - to 2112 “two”; 1118-Kalina and 2170-Priora with power steering.

Design number:

2110-1041020Р size - 1115

Lada VAZ 2110-12, Priora 2170 with power steering, size - 1115
We finish the partial display of the photo with the rubber drive of the compressor of the Lada VAZ 2110-2112 with air conditioning.

Design number:

2110-8114096Р size - 1125

Lada 2110-12 with air conditioning, size 1125
Good luck to you and see you soon on the pages of the RtiIvaz.ru blog!