Oil receiver 2108-1010010-01 2108-2109-2114-2115-2110-2112-1118

Replacing the engine sump gasket for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The pan gasket on the engines of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars and their modifications has to be changed in case of damage (oil leakage under the gasket), during engine repairs (replacing pistons, rings, etc.). Necessary tools, accessories and spare parts

"10" wrench (socket or socket wrench)

New engine pan gasket

Solvent (gasoline, diesel fuel, etc.), rags

We install the car on a viewing hole, overpass or lift

Removing the engine compartment protection sheet

Removing engine mudguards

Removing the lower clutch housing cover

Drain the engine oil from the sump

Features of replacing the engine pan gasket VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

Unscrew the pallet mounting bolts

We use the key to “10”. There are 16 bolts in total.

Removing the engine sump

We move it forward a little to free it from engagement with the oil pump intake and remove it down.

Removing the old pan gasket

Cleaning the tray from dirt

We clean the pallet itself and its mating surface under the gasket with a rag soaked in solvent.

Clean the mating surface of the block for the gasket

We use rags and solvent. The main condition for installing a new pan gasket is that the parts in contact with it are clean and dry.

Installing a new gasket

Place a new gasket on the mating surface of the pallet.

Installing the sump on the engine

Carefully press the pan against the engine so as not to displace the gasket. First, we engage it with the oil intake, moving it slightly forward. Place several bolts along the edges of the pallet. Screw in the remaining bolts. Lightly tighten them first. We make the final tightening of the bolts in several passes from the middle to the edges of the pallet so that the gasket lies evenly. The final tightening torque is within 10 N.m.

Notes and additions

For installation, it is better to use a silicone gasket rather than a cork gasket, as it is more reliable and has a longer service life.

Special pressure shaped washers are installed under the heads of the pallet bolts.

More articles on engines of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Main causes of low oil pressure

The main reasons for low oil pressure on classic VAZ models are as follows:

1. Using low quality oil or the wrong type of engine.
2. Oil filter clogged.
3. Malfunction of the pressure sensor (you can check it by measuring the pressure with a mechanical pressure gauge).
4. Clogged oil receiver or failure of the oil pump.
5. Damage to the oil receiver as a result of mechanical deformation of the oil pan.

One of the reasons why the oil pressure light comes on is a faulty sensor.

All these reasons can lead to failure of the oil pump and its replacement. When purchasing a new pump, preference should be given to original products and trusted manufacturers. Otherwise, the result may be unpredictable.

The actual life of an oil pump is determined both by the quality of the product itself and the quality of the oil and oil filter used. Its failure in most cases is associated with wear of the gears and drive axis. At the same time, the repair is quite simple. On a pump removed from the car, you only need to replace the worn elements with new ones.

How to restore the integrity of the bottom

When a difficult situation arises, car owners need an answer to the question: the engine sump has broken, what should I do? The first reaction should be to stop and turn off the engine. If the engine is not turned off, a rapid decrease in the engine oil level will occur, which will lead to oil starvation with subsequent serious damage to the elements of the power unit.

Repair of steel pallets is carried out by welding or gluing with a special sealant or cold welding. Aluminum parts are restored by welding in an argon environment.

How to seal an aluminum engine sump? In order to independently repair the underbody, eliminate oil leaks and repair existing cracks in the body without removing the part from the car, you must perform the following operations:

• clean the surface from dirt using a wire brush;
• blot the leaking oil around the resulting hole;
• cut off a piece of cold welding and knead it thoroughly, like plasticine;
• remove any oil leaks again using a rag;
• apply the first layer of cold welding in the form of putty:
• After the applied layer has hardened, treat it with emery cloth;
• Apply a second layer of cold seal until the leaks are completely eliminated.

To reliably eliminate the resulting defects of this unit, you must contact the service center for qualified assistance. In a service station, the lubricant is completely drained, diagnostics, dismantling and high-quality restoration of the tightness of the part is carried out using welding operations, followed by checking and installing the bottom in its original place.

Good day everyone!

So last time the current pan showed itself, and I thought about a solution to the problem. I went online and everyone unanimously shouted to remove the pan, which is logical and understandable. For the test, I decided to test the method with cold welding, drained the oil, left it for a day, wiped it with sandpaper and degreased it. Cold welding was Manol

. 2 syringes, squeeze out and mix. We are waiting for the result as written for 15 minutes, I waited a lot longer... I filled in the oil and started running! Well, it’s clear that it’s not normal to degrease without removing it, even with the oil drained, droplets still seep through the crack.

Well, I think there is another cold welding, Hi-gear “Cold Steel”

It comes in a bottle as an almost homogeneous mass; you also need to knead it and stick it on like plasticine.
I’ll say right away that there’s a big difference, High Gear sticks much better. As much as I could degrease, I also degreased it without removing it. I covered it up... and lo and behold, it didn’t run, I went once on the road, the second time on the second day I saw it was dripping underneath!
Much less than with Manol, or even a bare crack, but there is! Apparently he couldn’t withstand the temperature or went soft...

Next is the most reliable method. Welding! To do this, of course, you need to remove the pan, so cooking is not an option. The Subaru manual describes the action as terrible, and they also write on the internet. Remove the manifold, jack up the car, jack up the engine and gearbox until it stops, and so on and so on.

I thought what the hell, I put the driveshaft and 2 extensions on a small ratchet, and removing the pan took 10 minutes, including pulling it off the sealant and twisting it to remove it from the oil receiver.

Still, it seems to me that this will only work on the atmosphere beam, which makes me very glad that I left it like that)

In general, I took it off and went to the nearest welder, I say drop or spit, there is a small crack here) There was a diesel Nissan in the box with the engine running, there was a column of smoke, it hurt my eyes. I went out. The pan comes out in 2 minutes, I didn’t even have time to see what he was cooking, unfortunately...

Well, okay, the problem is solved, that’s the main thing, installation is coming soon. I would have installed it right away, but winter came, it was -15 degrees windy outside and there was a lot of snow falling. Weather, are you aware that the month of spring is already behind us?!

stuck on a frozen track

I have a steel crankcase (there are also light alloy ones)

A photo would be nice. We had to boil both the pipes and hydraulic oil tanks. If it's a gap. I would cook it directly with butter. I even had to plug large holes with wooden caps (so that the oil would not interfere with the arc too much) and scald them. Of course it would be better to remove it. is it really that long and difficult?

If you are not afraid that the oil vapors in your crankcase may explode (and will definitely explode), then cook... Who can stop you?

You will not be able to completely remove the remaining oil from the crankcase... And those 30-50 grams that remain in the form of a film on the walls of the pan are quite enough for an explosion after evaporation. Have you ever seen a volumetric explosion of petroleum vapors? As an engine specialist, I will tell you that the spectacle is enchanting..

After the antifreeze, you still have to remove the pan and wash the antifreeze.. You won’t pour oil into the antifreeze, will you?

But I tell you again, no one can stop you...

Replacing the pump on the "nine"

In order to make a replacement, you need “13” and “10” keys, socket heads, extensions and cardans. You may also need screwdrivers, and be sure to have a wheelbrace, jack, supports and wheel chocks. To drain the oil, you need a container of at least 5 liters in volume.

Sequence of work:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Loosen the tension on the generator drive belt and remove it. Drain the oil into a container. If present, remove the protection. Remove the pallet. At this stage, you need to inspect the oil receiver grid. If it is clogged, then most likely there will be no need for further dismantling. You'll just have to install a new receiver or clean the old one. There is no point in installing a new pump, since the breakdown is clearly not in it. Loosen and remove the timing belt. Remove the oil pan. Remove all 6 bolts that secure the pump housing to the engine block

Please note that there are washers underneath them. Don't lose them. Now you can completely remove the VAZ-2109 oil pump.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. It is recommended to check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft. Now you know how to change the oil pump on a VAZ-2109 (injector). On carburetor modifications of cars, all work is carried out in the same exact way.

Replacing the oil pump

Replacing the oil pump of a VAZ 2110 is done quite quickly and does not require significant special knowledge, and therefore is feasible for most drivers:

If necessary, replacing the VAZ 2110 oil pump is done quickly enough and does not require significant special knowledge, and therefore is feasible for most drivers:

1. 1. Drain the oil - it is more practical to perform this procedure on a warm engine. Place a container (of sufficient volume), unscrew the drain neck and wait until it drains completely;
2. 2. Unscrew the 3 bolts of the protection that covers the flywheel near the crankcase. Remove protection;
3. 3. Unscrew the crankcase bolts and remove it. After this, the pump becomes visually visible;
4. 4. Unscrew the oil intake (3 bolts) from the oil pump.

Removing the oil intake

1. 5. All further work is performed in the engine compartment. Why does it need to be opened?
2. 6. Remove the plastic timing belt protection.
3. 7. Remove the right wheel, unscrew the washer securing the pulley. Remove the pulley itself;
4. 8. Remove the timing belt. Next, unscrew the 6 bolts (using a wrench to secure the oil pump.

Removing the oil intake

Oil pump VAZ 2110, another model removed.

What happens if the pallet is not repaired or replaced?

So, if an element is damaged, this will clearly affect the operation of the power unit. Let's look at a few damages. If there is a deep deformation of one of the planes without a hole on a motor with an oil pickup, and the pan itself is made of aluminum alloy or plastic, then in this situation there is a risk that the oil pickup tube will be higher than the level of the lubricant. Often, with such damage, these parts break off completely.

If the oil does not leak out, but the deformation is quite deep, you need to add the required amount of oil and try to start the engine. In the case of minor deformations and no breakdown, the oil pickup device may not break off, but the gap between the tube and the bottom of the pan will greatly decrease - this may be enough to operate the engine under low loads

It is important to consider that if the pan is damaged, at any moment the engine may experience “oil starvation” during sudden acceleration and increased speed. All this will not have the best effect on all nodes

The most common consequences of oil starvation is the seizure of the upper connecting rod bearing, which entails jamming of the entire engine. Also, the liner may turn during operation. In extreme cases, the connecting rod will break, which will damage the cylinder block.

Selecting a new element

There are two ways to get a new engine protection element.

1. Purchase a finished product. An easy method that requires you to visit a hardware store, buy a plate, and then install it according to the existing fasteners. In rare cases, fasteners have to be adapted to your car.
2. Make your own plate. The task is not easy, but it allows you to save a lot. You will need certain skills, a sheet of quality metal, a grinder and some time.

Tangible effect of the new protection
Taking into account the features of the presented options, we recommend choosing the first one. However, self-production is a complex process that requires a careful approach.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=-EneK5UplPw

There are several main criteria by which it is recommended to choose a protective plate for the underbody of a VAZ 2109 car.

Design from Sheriff
An important aspect of protection from the Sheriff company is the holes provided in the plate, through which you can change the oil filter, drain the oil, and other consumables without removing the element.

Purpose of the part

The oil pan plays the role of a tank in the engine design. Although the part is not structurally complex, it is assigned a number of the following tasks:

1. Storing oil that is poured into the engine to lubricate internal parts. Oil accumulates in the sump, and when the internal combustion engine is operating, it is sucked in by the oil pump through the oil receiver and supplied through channels to the working parts of the engine.
2. Preventing lubricant from splashing when the vehicle is moving.
3. Protecting oil from negative environmental influences.
4. Cooling the lubricant, which is heated by the engine.
5. Collection of products produced by CVS, such as fine metal dust and larger particles.
6. Engine cooling. The pan located below cools down when the car moves, and thereby takes heat from the engine, reducing its temperature.

Various materials are used to make engine pans. This can be stamping or casting, as well as combined options. Looking ahead, it must be said that Lanos cars use engine oil crankcases made of aluminum and metal alloy. Why this is so, and what is best for the car, we will find out further.

Similar products from other companies

• Oil purification filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-3105-m for GAZ 3102 Volga engine injection, for GAZ 2705 GAZelle, Sobol 117 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2405-b for foreign cars Chevrolet Aveo (Chevrolet Aveo), Daewoo Kalos (Daewoo Kalos) engine 1.4/1.4l 16v/1.6 98 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-402-v 103/1 for GAZ carburetor engine 111 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2110-v (EKO-102 for VAZ injection engine, LADA Kalina (Lada Kalina), LADA Priora (Lada Priora), for foreign car Audi (Audi) 94 b
• Air filter Sintec SNF-1266-b for foreign cars Opel Astra g/h, Zafira |/||, Saab 9-3, for VAZ, Niva Chevrolet 1.8 i 16v 84 b
• Air filter Sintec SNF-1015-b for foreign cars Ford Tourneo, Transit 92/95, Volvo 440/460/480 98 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-3466-b for foreign car Hyundai (Hyundai) County/hd65/72 engine Euro-3 433 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-lr003-b trapezoid for foreign car Renault Logan (Renault Logan) 165 b
• Sintec oil filter SNF-5540-m for foreign car Hyundai County/hd65/72/78 d4al/db/dd 211 b
• Oil purification filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-75/3-m for VAZ LADA Largus (LADA Largus), for foreign car Renault Logan (Renault Logan) 112 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-lr002/1-b panel original for foreign car Renault Logan (Renault Logan) 162 b
• Oil purification filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2101-NF-01-m for VAZ, for Moskvich, for UAZ 107 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2101-v (EKO-101/1) for VAZ, for Moskvich, for ZAZ Tavria carburetor engine 62 b
• Oil purification filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2105-NF-05-m for VAZ 2110-2115 injection engine 104 b
• Air filter Sintec SNF-1019-b for foreign cars KIA Carens 2/3, Cerato, Shuma 1/2, Sorento 2.4 83 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-lr001-b round for foreign car Renault Logan (Renault Logan) 148 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2413-b for foreign cars Hyundai (Hyundai) i40/ix35, KIA Sportage (KIA Sportage) 3 121 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-2409-b for foreign cars Hyundai (Hyundai) i-30, KIA Ceed (KIA Sid) 98 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-luxtr105p-b for GAZ low 183 b
• Air filter Sintec (Sintek) SNF-luxtr104р-b for GAZ high engine ZMZ 406, Steyr (Steyer) 560 209 b

The description and image of goods on the website are for informational purposes only and may differ from the actual description, technical documentation from the manufacturer and the actual appearance of the goods. We recommend checking the availability of the desired functions and characteristics of the goods with the seller.

If you did not find what you were looking for on the page or want to find additional information on your request, try using the search form or follow the links to the following sections:

• Spare parts for passenger cars, auto parts
• Oil receivers for passenger cars

Causes of malfunction of VAZ 2108/2109 oil pumps

Before deciding to repair or replace the oil pump, it is worth understanding the reasons that may indicate problems. By the way, problems are possible not only with the mechanism itself, but also with other elements of the lubrication system:

• decrease in pressure in the crankcase;
• problems with pressure sensors;
• use of low quality motor oil;
• using oil that is not suitable for this vehicle;
• problems with the lubrication or safety valve;
• oil filter clogged;
• contamination of the oil receiver or pump housing.

Contamination of the oil receiver leads to a decrease in pressure in the system and the light comes on.

The blockage may occur due to contamination of the engine crankcase itself. The problem is solved by removing and cleaning the pan. The operation of the oil pump can be disrupted by other problems that are identified during the diagnostic process. These include:

• gasket damage;
• unreliable filter fastening;
• high wear of mechanism parts;
• reduction valve failure.

Purpose of the oil pump on the VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115

The main task of the oil pump is to create excess pressure in the engine lubrication system and ensure continuous circulation of oil in the lubrication channels.

Only rotary oil pumps are installed on the VAZ 2114

Any breakdown of the oil pump leads to a drop in lubricant pressure, after which the friction between the moving parts of the engine increases sharply. As a result, almost all engine components are damaged, and they can only be restored after an expensive overhaul.

Types of oil pumps for VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115

The design of the VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 engines is the same. Therefore, the oil pumps on these machines are also exactly the same. These are adjustable rotary pumps equipped with a pressure reducing valve.

Main design elements of the rotary adjustable oil pump VAZ 2114

On earlier VAZ models, gear oil pumps were installed, but VAZ engineers gradually abandoned these devices, since the rotary oil pump has important advantages:

• rotary oil pumps, unlike gear pumps, almost never foam the engine oil in the system;
• if an adjustable rotary oil pump is installed on the car, then the car owner will not have to change the engine oil too often (since the foaming problem has been solved, the working life of the lubricant increases on average by 2.5 times);
• Due to the design features, the oil rotary pump significantly facilitates engine operation. When using oil pumps of this type, engine power increases by 35%.

Location of oil pumps on VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115

The oil pump on the VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 is located under the car engine. It is covered by an oil pan, and the pan, in turn, is covered by a crankcase protection. Therefore, in order to get to the oil pump, the car owner will have to remove these parts, having first driven the car onto an overpass or inspection hole.

Preparing for work

Preparation plays a big role in successfully replacing the oil pan gasket. Actually, this event will not be very difficult.

• Drive the car into the pit or lift it using a lift;
• Provide high-quality light so that you can carefully inspect the condition of the pallet;
• Remove the crankcase protection if you previously installed it on your VAZ 2110;
• The oil pan must be cleaned because a large amount of dirt and oil accumulates on it. It is also recommended to clean the areas adjacent to the oil pan;
• The easiest way to detect a leak is when the engine is warm, but only at idle speed. This will increase the pressure in the oil system and will show how serious the problem is with oil leaking through the oil pan gasket.

Oil pump installation

1. 1. Before installing a newly purchased VAZ 2112 or 2110 oil pump, be sure to lubricate its pressure reducing valve and gears. Also, when replacing, use only a new oil seal;
2. 2. Install the oil pump, place the timing belt on the tension rollers, and align it according to the marks. Next, the plastic protection is installed.;
3. 3. Put on the wheel;
4. 4. Install the oil intake on the oil pump VAZ 2112, 2110;
5. 5. Thoroughly degrease the crankcase and apply sealant;
6. 6. Install a new gasket, then apply sealant again;
7. 7. Degrease the block, install the crankcase in its place. The task will be simplified if you first screw a few bolts in different places and then tighten the rest;
8. 8. The flywheel protection is installed, followed by the crankcase protection (if available);
9. 9. Fill with high-quality oil and start the VAZ 2110, 2112 engine.

Repair of pump VAZ 2112, other models

You can also repair the VAZ 2110 oil pump with your own hands, which consists of disassembling this product, visual inspection to identify worn parts, followed by replacement. But it is the best option only if there are spare parts or another serviceable unit. In all other situations, it would be more practical to purchase a new product for the VAZ 2110, 2112.

There are two methods for changing the oil

Changing the oil in a VAZ 2112 with engine flushing

After the old oil is drained, flushing oil is poured into the engine and the car is idled for about 10 minutes, after which the flushing oil is drained and new engine oil is poured in (the disadvantage is that the remains of the flushing oil remain and as a result they can cause engine operation have a negative impact). Since then the remains of the flushing oil will be mixed with the working oil, and the properties and tasks of these oils are different, which will accordingly have a negative effect on the performance characteristics.

Changing the oil in a VAZ 2112 without flushing the engine

After draining the old oil, new engine oil is immediately poured in (the disadvantage is that the remnants of used engine oil with the presence of combustion products will mix with the new engine oil, thereby reducing the working life of the oil).

Symptoms of a faulty oil pump

The main signs of problems in the lubrication system are sounds uncharacteristic of engine operation and the oil pressure light coming on. In this situation, you should stop, turn off the car and after a while check the oil level in the engine with a dipstick (you need to wait a little until the oil drains into the sump). If the level is below the minimum, add oil and check the level again (it should be between the min and max marks). If the light goes out when starting the engine, the reason it came on was precisely the low oil level.

A burning oil pressure light indicates a problem with the lubrication system.

If, after adding oil, the extraneous sounds do not disappear and the light continues to light, you should not continue driving. Most likely, there is a problem with the oil pump and will require replacement or repair. You can get to the garage or car service using a tow truck or tow. However, the light may also be on due to a failure of the oil pressure sensor. Therefore, until an accurate diagnosis is made, you should not rush to repair the oil pump and start disassembling the engine.

Oil pan repair: what you need to know

To begin with, many owners try to repair the hole themselves. Some also try to solve the problem on the spot so that they can get to the service station under their own power. For these purposes (depending on the degree of damage), sealants, liquid welding, conventional welding, metal rivets or even wooden plugs can be used.

Let us immediately note that you should not repair the pan yourself using such homemade methods, since the pressure in the crankcase will quickly squeeze out the homemade plug, etc. The only exception can be considered a situation where, in fact, only a microcrack has formed in the pan due to the impact, through which oil leaks are visible, but at the same time quite predictable and occur with low intensity at different engine operating modes (oil flows out slowly, the leak itself is insignificant.)

In this case, you can try to use some suitable external sealant (do not pour “stop-leak” compounds directly into the engine oil), then you should add oil almost to the maximum on the dipstick and drive the car under your own power.

While driving, you should avoid even medium loads on the internal combustion engine and increasing the crankshaft speed by more than 25% of the total available number on the tachometer (the higher the speed, the greater the pressure in the lubrication system, which increases the likelihood of an existing leak becoming worse).

At the same time, during such a ride, you need to carefully monitor the oil pressure light, and also make stops at short intervals, check the oil level in the engine and re-inspect the damaged area of ​​the sump. It should also be understood that this method of delivering a car to a service station under its own power involves traveling only over relatively short distances.

It becomes clear that it is optimal to deliver the car by tow truck or tow truck. In the second case, it is necessary to follow all the rules for towing a vehicle, depending on the type of gearbox installed (manual, automatic, robotic, CVT, etc.). Remember, improper towing is a common cause of serious damage to both the transmission and the engine.

After the car has been delivered to the service, you can immediately replace the part, but you should prepare for certain financial expenses. Moreover, on some engines, the cost of the pan itself and the price of services for replacing it can be quite high, since replacing a part will require a fairly large amount of complex work.

It is for this reason that many take a different route and prefer to repair the oil pan using one of the available methods offered by specialists. Each method is selected individually, depending on the material from which the oil pan itself is made (steel or aluminum). The extent and nature of the damage, the risk of further enlargement of cracks, etc. are also taken into account.

Typically, the repair of steel pallets is carried out by welding, the pallets are also sealed with a special sealant, cold welding, fiberglass, etc. are used. If the part is made of aluminum, argon welding is required for repair.

It is quite obvious that one of the most reliable and proven methods is to weld the oil pan. In this case, the pan must be removed from the engine, since welding without removal directly on the internal combustion engine is strictly prohibited. The fact is that high temperatures can damage other elements and parts inside the unit.

Troubleshooting

Direct connection of the pump to the crankshaft avoids damage associated with its drive. This, however, does not exclude the possibility of other malfunctions.

Pump malfunctions and their symptoms

The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump include:

• clogging of the oil receiver mesh;
• damage to the device body;
• wear of gear seats in the housing and cover;
• wear of the drive or driven gear;
• damage to the pressure reducing valve;
• deformation or damage to the valve spring.

A constantly burning warning light in the form of an oil can indicates a drop in pressure in the lubrication system to a critical level

Signs of oil pump failure may include:

• critical oil pressure warning light on the dashboard;
• engine overheating;
• high-frequency knocking (clattering) at the pump location.

The design of the VAZ 2110–12 engine does not provide for the installation of an oil pressure sensor. Like most modern cars, representatives of the tenth family are equipped only with an emergency (critically low) pressure sensor. When the pressure in the system drops, a warning light in the form of a red oil can lights up on the instrument panel. However, this lamp can also light up in the event of other malfunctions (failure of the sensor, break in its electrical circuit, oil leak, etc.).

Engine overheating also cannot be attributed only to symptoms of a faulty oil pump. It usually occurs due to problems in the cooling system.

As for the knocking coming from the oil pump, not everything is clear here either. Sometimes, when gears or housing elements wear out, the device may produce a high-frequency knocking sound. As a rule, it is associated with the formation of play between the gears and the housing (cover) and is most clearly audible at idle. However, similar sounds can also be produced by worn bearings (tension or guide rollers, pumps, crankshafts).

How to determine that the oil pump is faulty

The process of replacing the oil pump on a VAZ 2110-12 is quite simple and does not involve the use of any special tools. However, to do this you need to buy a new pump and spend some time. Therefore, before replacing the device, you should make sure that it is the one that is faulty. This can be done using the following algorithm.

Oil level measurement

First you need to measure the oil level in the engine and check its consistency. This is done with a special probe. It is advisable to remember when the oil and filter were changed. If the car has traveled more than 10 thousand km since the last replacement, it is better to replace them immediately. Then you should apply a drop of oil to your thumb and rub it with your index finger. If the oil turns out to be too dark, liquid and quickly absorbed, it needs to be replaced.

If the lubricant level on the dipstick is below o, add oil and start the engine. Next, you need to see if the warning light on the dashboard comes on. You should also check whether the power unit is overheating. At the same time, the engine is inspected for oil leaks. If you previously heard a knocking sound from the pump, you should listen to see if it disappeared after adding oil.

Work order

Any job requires the right approach and competent execution. And this one is no exception. When performing, you should follow some rules:

It is necessary to change the oil with the engine fully warmed up. It is advisable to carry out work on an inspection ditch or lift. Unscrew the plug from the filler neck. This will prevent vacuum from forming in the upper part of the engine and will ensure excellent oil drainage.

Oil change VAZ 2112

• We unscrew the oil pan plug with a 17 key and pour the oil into a container whose volume should be at least 4 liters. This operation should be performed carefully, as the oil may burn the skin on your hands. It is best to unscrew it using a wrench with a handle (open-end or socket) and allow the unscrewed plug to fall into the container for drained oil and then catch it after cooling. The oil drains for at least 10 minutes; you must wait until the oil has completely drained from the crankcase.
• Unscrew the oil filter using a puller

Replacing the VAZ 2112 oil filter

• If there is no puller for the oil filter, you can use a screwdriver or a large nail. In a convenient place perpendicular to the fitting in the filter, the filter housing is pierced and unscrewed by rotating the resulting handle of the device. We also allow the oil to drain completely from the engine fitting.
• Before installing a new oil filter, you need to fill it with new engine oil approximately half of its volume and lubricate the filter O-ring with engine oil. This will prevent the lubrication system from becoming airy when starting the engine after replacement.
• After this, tighten the drain plug on the engine crankcase with a wrench. The plug has a self-sealing conical thread and does not require the installation of any additional sealing gaskets.
• Then add the rest of the oil. In order to control the oil being poured, you must use a dipstick (oil level indicator). The oil level should be 2/3 of the lower acceptable oil level mark on the dipstick. We slowly fill the oil to prevent overflow; it is necessary to constantly monitor the level, since due to the increased viscosity the level will slowly rise.
• After you fill in the oil, you need to tighten the oil plug and install the dipstick in place.
• We start the engine. And then, as soon as the oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel goes out, we turn off the car. Check the oil level again. If necessary, add more. This completes the oil change in the VAZ 2112; in order to understand this process in more detail, you need to watch the video.

Damage to the engine oil sump and troubleshooting features

In the case of stamped parts, the likelihood of damage to the pallet is extremely low. After all, when hitting hard objects, only dents will appear on the body of the part, which in no way affect the operation of the device. This is appropriate for stamped parts, and in the event of an impact on the aluminum crankcase, there is a high probability that it will not be possible to continue driving the car under its own power.

Features of damage to the aluminum pallet

If the Lanos and Chance 1.5 aluminum crankcase breaks down, all the oil will leak out of the engine. To prevent such situations from occurring, it is recommended to use special protection. It eliminates the possibility that one of the vulnerable engine parts will be damaged. If you still hoped that this situation would not happen to you, but at one point you came across a hard object that caused damage to the pallet body, then you should perform the following steps:

1. After the impact, you need to stop and turn off the engine to assess the scale of the incident. First of all, you should inspect the pan for oil leaks. If there are none, then the damage is not critical. However, it is too early to continue driving under your own power.
2. The next step involves turning on the ignition and starting the engine. If after this the oil pressure indicator on the instrument panel goes out and does not light up, then everything is in order and you can continue driving under your own power. However, at the first opportunity, a more thorough inspection of the part should be made to ensure there are no microcracks.
3. If, after an impact, an oil leak is detected, then an emergency warning should be called. Starting the engine is strictly contraindicated in this case, and to eliminate damage of this kind, the crankcase will need to be replaced or repaired. The possibility of repairing an aluminum pallet is assessed by a specialist. If the damage is minor (small), then you can solder it using argon-arc welding. In case of serious damage, the part must be replaced.

Oil from the oil pan, through an oil receiver equipped with a filter, enters the oil pump, where it is transported under pressure through all channels in the engine. The body of the part is shaped with a recess in which the oil receiver is located. This is done specifically so that no matter at what angle the car is moving, the oil pump can continuously pump the lubricant. For this purpose, the crankcase design has a special restrictor plate.

Basic data

The VAZ 2110, 2112 oil pump is designed to uninterruptedly supply oil to the engine to lubricate its rubbing parts, which effectively extends their service life. On these cars, this product is connected to the crankshaft and directly receives energy from it for operation (rotation), which is traditional for all front-wheel drive VAZs. The product is located in the engine oil sump.

Oil pump location

Signs of pump failure:

1. 1. Increased or decreased oil pressure at idle speed;
2. 2. There is no oil pressure at idle, under load;
3. 3. Continuous lighting of a red light signal with an image of an oil can, indicating a lack of oil pressure in the system.

You need to know that the burning of a lamp with an image of an oil can, without confirmation, is not grounds for immediate replacement of the unit. First you need to make sure that the wiring of the oil pressure sensor is in good condition; if everything is in order with it, then you definitely need to check the sensor itself. To do this, it is dismantled and inspected - if there are no traces of lubricant on it (no circulation), the pump will need to be replaced; when the sensor is lubricated, the sensor should be replaced.

The most common pump failures include:

1. 1. Oil leakage through the oil seal;
2. 2. Breakdown of the oil reservoir, which most often occurs due to the driver’s fault, namely the use of low-quality oil, too thick, or untimely oil changes. Oil that is too thin simply will not be pumped through the pump, which will be immediately signaled by a lamp with an oiler;
3. 3. Clogged oil receiver grid, which leads to difficulty in oil circulation through the engine. In this case, oil starvation occurs with increased wear of parts and assemblies of the VAZ 212 engine and other models.

Oil pickup failure

Bypass valve failure

1. 4. Damage to the pressure reducing (bypass) valve. It can stop in different positions: if it “hangs” in the open position, the oil pressure will drop, but if it stops in the closed position, then the bypass will not occur, this will be evidenced by oil leakage through the oil seal.

The manufacturer AvtoVAZ recommends changing the oil every 10 thousand km, but operating experience shows that it is better to reduce the mileage between changes. You need to buy oil only from reputable manufacturers, and you also need to be wary of counterfeits.

For what reasons does the pump break?

There are several reasons why the pressure reducing valve and oil pump on a VAZ-2109 fail:

1. Excessively low oil pressure.
2. Pressure sensor faulty.
3. Low quality motor oil.
4. Using a lubricant whose characteristics are not suitable for this vehicle.
5. The safety or lubrication valve is faulty.
6. The oil filter is dirty.
7. Clogged oil receiver mesh.

Please note that it is necessary to remove and clean the pan - this will avoid blockages. Malfunction of the pump can be caused by the following breakdowns:

1. If the rubber gasket is damaged.
2. If the oil filter is not securely fastened.
3. In case of excessive wear of parts of the VAZ-2109 oil pump.
4. If a pressure reducing valve breaks down.

Functions, structure and location of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump

The engine lubrication system is designed to timely supply engine oil to the moving and hottest elements of the power unit. Oil is supplied from the sump and circulates through special channels inside the block and cylinder head. The oil pump ensures forced circulation of the lubricant.

Location of the oil pump on the VAZ 2110–12

On the VAZ 2110–12, the oil pump is located in the lower right corner of the cylinder block under the crankshaft gear, which drives the gas distribution mechanism.

The oil pump is located in the lower right corner of the engine under the crankshaft gear

This applies to both eight and sixteen valve engines. The pump housing is also the side cover of the power unit.

Oil pump device

The design of the oil pump is very simple and includes the following elements:

• housing with lid;
• driving and driven gears;
• pressure reducing valve with spring;
• oil receiver

The oil pump has a simple design based on two gears

Operating principle of the oil pump

The pump is driven by the crankshaft through the drive gear. The latter rotates the driven gear, creating a reduced pressure at the input of the device and increased pressure at the output. Thus, oil from the crankcase flows through the oil receiver tube into the pump, and from it into the engine oil line. When the pressure inside the pump begins to exceed the permissible value, a spring-loaded pressure relief valve drains excess oil back into the sump.