Ignition relay for VAZ 2114 - where is it located, how to change it

Operating principle

The VAZ 2114 ignition relay is structurally similar in design to other electronic relays.

Its main purpose is to start the starter and, as a result, initiate the start of the engine itself. At the same time, the relay is responsible for other equally important tasks, for example, for protecting the starter from too high voltage or, on the contrary, for starting the engine when the battery is dead (thus, it corrects the voltage in the power circuit going to the starter) .

In addition, by breaking the electrical circuit after starting the engine, the main relay thereby protects the ignition switch contacts from burning or even melting.

Location of the ignition relay VAZ 2114

Mechanism of action

Where is the starter relay located in a Lada Priora car?

When the car's ignition is turned off, the armature is extended thanks to a spring. In this case, the bendix is ​​not engaged with the flywheel. When the ignition key is turned to a different position, voltage is transferred to the relay contacts. With the help of the magnetic field created by the retractor coil, the armature is driven. He moves back and compresses the spring. The contacts close and the voltage passes through them to the starter. During this period, the pull-in winding is turned off, and the holding winding is connected.

As the armature moves, the fork moves. It moves along the rotor (shaft). At the same time, the bendix moves and the flywheel engages with the gear. When the ignition key is released, no voltage is supplied to the holding coil. The spring returns to its place. The anchor rises in its original position. The Bendix gear with the flywheel crown is disconnected under the influence of the fork.

Interpretation of fuses and relays of injection models

The main electrical fuse module 2114-3722010-60 is located under the front engine compartment. This arrangement allows for quick access to all electrical systems of the car.

Block location

Please note that the location of the electrical fuse module may depend on the type of equipment and year of manufacture of the vehicle. As a rule, this is the upper right part of the engine compartment, under the front windshield. The mounting block is made of plastic in the form of a rectangular box. To protect against accidental opening, the box is equipped with special latches. To open the module, you need to snap off the two protective brackets and lift the top plastic protection. Under the cover are all the main control relays and electrical fuses of the vehicle.

To quickly remove the fuse, special plastic pliers are located on the plastic protection cover. With their help, you can very easily get any element. You need to grab the top edge of the plastic case with pliers and carefully lift the element.

For the convenience of the user, on the top plastic cover there is a complete diagram, made in the form of a schematic image, which shows all the electrical fuses and relays indicating the current strength (A).

Fuse and relay diagram for injection models

Table 1. Explanation of fuses and relays 2114-3722010-60

Signs of malfunction of the main relay and electric fuel pump relay circuits of the UAZ Hunter, their error codes.

In the previous material, we examined in detail where the main relay, the electric fuel pump relay and the fuses of the power circuits of the electronic engine control unit (ECU) in the UAZ Hunter are located, and also justified the need for their protection and periodic inspection with maintenance.

Now let’s look at why and for what reasons the UAZ Hunter engine may not start related to these relays or fuses, as well as signs of malfunction of the main relay and electric fuel pump relay circuits. At the end of the materials, analogues and options for replacing the main ECU relay and the electric fuel pump relay will be given.

If you have an on-board computer installed in your car with the ability to voice or digital error notification, then if there is a malfunction in the electrical circuits of the main computer relay or the electric fuel pump relay, it may display the following:

Error code 167 - short circuit in the electric fuel pump relay circuit. Error code 168 - open circuit in the electric fuel pump. Error code 169 - short circuit to ground in the electric fuel pump relay circuit. Error code 177 - short circuit of the main relay circuit. Error code 178 - main relay target open. Error code 179 - short circuit to ground in the main relay circuit.

These errors indicate malfunctions in the electrical control circuits of the electric fuel pump or main relay, including blown fuses, disconnection of the wiring harness from the terminals of the corresponding relay, malfunction of the relays themselves, or a short circuit in their wiring.

If there is no on-board computer, then in the field you can put the controller (ECU) into self-diagnosis mode and determine the digital error code by the number of lights (flashes) of the Check Engine warning lamp.

After turning on the ignition, the Check Engine warning light does not light up and the electric fuel pump does not work.

The turning on of the Check Engine lamp is noticeable visually, and the operation of the electric fuel pump after turning on the ignition is clearly audible. If none of this is present, then you need to check the serviceability of the main relay and the yellow 20-amp fuse, and replace if necessary. If after replacement the fault does not disappear, then most likely the problem is in the electronic engine control unit itself.

After turning on the ignition, the Check Engine indicator light is on, but the electric fuel pump does not work.

This means the ECU is working properly and you need to look at the electric fuel pump relay, plus the same yellow 20 amp fuse. If after replacing the relay and fuse the fault does not disappear, then you need to deal with the electric fuel pump itself and its serviceability.

Analogues and options for replacing the main relay and electric fuel pump relay of the UAZ Hunter.

The main relay and the electric fuel pump relay are completely of the same type and interchangeable, so in order to avoid wasting time and unnecessary hassle, it is advisable to always have one or two 90.3747-10 relays in stock, but always four-pin ones. Instead of relay 90.3747-10, you can install relay 90.3747-11, their only difference is that the latter does not have a mounting bracket on the body. Direct analogs of these relays are 75.3777-10 and 75.3777-11, respectively.

If it suddenly happens that there is no relay in stock at all to replace the faulty one, then there is no need to be upset. In the UAZ Hunter, three of the same type of relay 90.3747-10 (11) or 75.3777-10 (11) are located on the bottom left side of the front panel on the driver’s side and are responsible for turning on the front fog lights, low and high beams. Remove one of them, for example the high beam, and change the faulty main relay or electric fuel pump relay.

Signs of a relay malfunction

Sure signs that the relay has failed may include:

• interruptions in the operation of the stove fan;
• problems with turning on the windshield wipers and heated windows;
• failures to start the engine.

All these factors, and especially their combination, directly indicate that the device is broken and should be replaced. But before you begin the repair, you should find out where the ignition relay is located on the VAZ 2114? You should look for this electronic element under the decorative trim-casing, to the left of the steering wheel. In order to gain access to the relay, this casing must be removed.

In some cases, you can try to remove the relay without removing the casing. This can be done by carefully placing your hand underneath the casing. True, this method requires a certain skill and an accurate understanding of the location and method of attaching the relay. For this reason, when replacing the device for the first time, it is recommended to dismantle the casing.

Ignition relay VAZ 2114 under a protective cover

Another, although less rare, but still common problem is overheating of the ignition relay. So, if after a long trip (during which many consumers were turned on, the operation of which is controlled by this relay - windshield wipers, glass heaters) it became very hot, then you should immediately begin searching for the cause, without waiting for the device to burn out or other problems in the on-board network.

As a rule, the high heating of the main relay is due to its low amperage in combination with a large number of consumers (the standard model 14 ignition relay is designed for a current of 70 Amps). In order to check this, it is enough to disconnect a number of devices from the relay (with the exception of the starter, of course) and check its condition after the trip.

If the relay remains cold, then the reason for overheating lies precisely in its low power. To solve this problem, you should install a new relay of a similar design, but designed for a higher current.

Ignition relay contacts

Step-by-step replacement of the ignition relay

If during the inspection it turns out that the ignition switch relay has failed, then experts do not recommend repairing this element, as was previously said. To buy a new relay, minimal cash costs will be required, and every car enthusiast can make a replacement if all operations are carried out in stages:

1. The most important thing to do first is to disconnect the battery from the power supply; to do this, simply disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. When using a screwdriver, it is best to use a slotted tool. You need to unscrew the 4 fasteners from the steering column casing to simplify the process of removing the “relay”.
3. The latch holding the lower part of the casing is most conveniently unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver.
4. The casing, loosened from the fasteners, is carefully removed from its place.
5. The ignition relay is connected to wires that are located at the bottom of the block. To replace an element that has become unusable, you simply disconnect the wires from the block and install a new one in place of the old relay.

After this, you need to check the result of your own work by starting the engine of your car. If the fault does not show itself, it means that the replacement process was completed correctly, and the car owner can be proud of his next, albeit small, but still achievement.

After reading this article, everyone should understand that the process of replacing this device is simple and straightforward. And since the “relay” rarely fails, VAZ-2114 owners do not constantly have to perform such an operation. But if difficulties arise when replacing the ignition switch relay, you should never despair, because you can find the answer to any question in a training video on the Internet resource, which you can watch both day and night.

The training video lesson was prepared and conducted by true professionals who thoroughly understand all stages of car repair. Therefore, everyone will be able to obtain additional information on replacing the relay and determine its exact location from the photo. Well, after watching the training video, the replacement process will become even simpler and you can be sure that every car enthusiast can handle this task.

Where is the VAZ-2114 ignition relay located: photo diagram and video

Even before buying a car, I heard about problems with electrical systems in Samara. So I had to face this myself.

Since I’m not much of an electrician or mechanic, I still started digging for information on the Internet. At the beginning of winter, as always happens, the heater fan and the rear window heating stopped working when the ignition was on (everything worked when the ignition was off). In winter, it’s simply not possible to drive without a heater, or you can, but like in a tank, with a scraper in your hand. I started digging for information on this part. I didn’t find anything intelligible, but even then I began to blame the contact group of the ignition switch or something connected with it, since the F7 20 A fuse was in order, the mounting block also became in order after removing it, cleaning and drying it in the fall (gifts from The previous owner removed the fire pit by covering it with half a 5 liter plastic bottle) and visually did not find any jambs in the wiring.

I removed and connected the black box, again not without swearing. Well, why couldn’t AvtoVAZ engineers make the wiring with chips 5 cm longer? Did you spare the wires or what?

I had no experience in replacing or reassembling the lock, it was winter, so in short I didn’t go there.

I drove in the winter, you won’t believe it!)) On the handbrake. Since the alarm is on autostart, the handbrake is not tightened, and the car does not stall when the ignition is off, but the heater was working)))

I could have driven like this for another month until it warmed up, but then this heater shut down completely (if it weren’t okay, as my great-grandmother said), even with the handbrake, taking with it the windshield washers, the rear wiper, and the rear heating. glass, and lighting for the junk drawer, in short, it looks like everything that hung on the F7. The wipers continued to work. I looked at fuse F7, which is intact. I started digging for information again.

Most of the advice focused on the ignition switch unloading relay at best and on the wiring, mounting block and short circuit at worst. I decided to start with the easiest one. It turned out that the ignition switch had nothing to do with it at all. Some electricians advised, like buy a new one and don’t worry about rebuilding the old one. Moreover, it would still have to be removed in order to buy a similar one from the 10... But I show promise as an inquisitive car owner and decided not to spend money on it until I find out everything and look at the condition of its contact group.

Anyway, I bought a relay, it costs 38 rubles. He crawled under the steering wheel with a flashlight in his teeth, legs up. Again, not without swearing and strong language. Some advice was to move it first, wake up the relay without replacing it after identification, throw it off - put on the chip and tighten the nut on the stud. (well, it’s very uncomfortable there because). The one with it also has the rear fog light relay attached. Tightened it, moved it, everything worked. And you no longer need to drive with a handbrake. No replacement needed!

Actually, why did I write all this down? In principle, there is information on the Internet and on the website, but in some places there are no photos, or it is not clear where the relay is, in others there are no symptoms of the disease. I decided to have everything in one place.

I would be glad and grateful if someone read to the end and this material will be useful to someone.

Comments 11

Explain, as someone who has already figured it out, to someone starting to figure it out: does this relay generally remove the load from the lock? That is, if it fails, can any part that is powered by the lock fail, or just the part that failed in yours? It’s just that the symptoms are similar to yours, but my fuel pump still refuses to pump today...

Look on the net for what this feature is responsible for, what hangs on it, I saw it somewhere on the drive. As far as I know, there isn't much hanging on it. What exactly is your problem, please elaborate?

Even if I didn’t get it, why would I turn off the ignition? Start it and drive) Well, what are the problems with the stove? Naturally, when the engine is turned off, it will not heat up, since the coolant heats up as it passes through the system... I’m still at a loss)))

I answer, the stove stopped working when the ignition was on and the car was running, so that I wouldn’t freeze in the winter, I drove with the ignition off))) the car has an alarm with autostart Starline A91, you start it, lift the handbrake, turn off the ignition - the car won’t stall until there’s a button on the key fob press. That's how it's set up. I myself did not immediately guess about this, at first glance, stupid solution to the problem)) You have to drive the right way))

• Editing history

no, well, I know this feature, I saw it once on one 14k))) on mine, I pressed the button, the locks closed and that’s it)) everything is simple and disgraceful))) but I don’t even understand about the stove, I just didn’t get into it in its deep technical part, but there doesn’t seem to be anything electronic there, you move the regulator and a faucet opens a flow of hot coolant through the heater radiator) recently, by the way, I had to change this faucet, the passenger side was filled with antifreeze up to the tomatoes! I was cursing when my dad and I were changing this miracle mechanism, they remembered all the AvtoVAZ engineers))))

Yes, there is no special electronics on the stove, the resistor is only for the regulator, ala AvtoVAZ climate control, either it blows in the face or in the legs, there is no third option)) the relay somehow influenced the entire circuit of fuse F7. (heater, washer, rear wiper , heated rear window).

well, a fan, I think)))

Idiot question, how did you manage to drive with the handbrake?

))) I bought a car and needed to tighten the handbrake (I think not on the cable but on the rear pads) but due to the circumstances described, I did not repair it))) How did you drive? Started it up, raised the handbrake, turned off the ignition)

So they write that disc brakes hold the handbrake perfectly, but they don’t work for long.

Materials: https://www.drive2.com/l/3427414/

How to repair the traction relay on a VAZ 2114 car

A starter 5712.3708 is installed on a VAZ 2114 car. It differs significantly from similar devices on other VAZ car models in its smaller size and weight. This design feature is the reason why malfunctions in the device are not uncommon, so it is useful to know how to fix them.

What needs to be done to remove the starter?

This operation will require installing your VAZ 2114 car on an inspection hole or overpass, because all the necessary actions will have to be performed under the car. After the machine is installed, it is necessary to remove the protection from the engine. Then you need to open the hood and disconnect the battery, pull out the block with wires and remove the wire leading to the traction relay. Next, tighten the mounting bolts and remove the starter.

If it is impossible to install the car on the inspection hole, then the device can be removed through the top of the engine compartment. In order to do this, you will need to remove the air intake corrugation, and then the air filter. Before these steps, you must also disconnect the battery. Next, you also need to disconnect the wires of the traction relay, starter, and then remove the starter itself.

To carry out the work you will need 15, 14 and 13 mm wrenches.

The main reasons why the starter may not work

Not every case when the traction relay does not work requires the procedure of removing the starter from a VAZ 2114. If it does not work and the armature does not rotate, it is possible that the following simple manipulations will help:

• The cause may be a faulty or discharged battery, charge or replace it;
• The battery terminals and wire tips are heavily oxidized, clean them and treat them with Vaseline;
• A short circuit has occurred inside the winding turns, in which case it will need to be replaced;
• There has been a break in the power supply, you need to check their integrity;
• The contact part of the switch has broken down and will need to be replaced;
• The armature began to jam, and here repairs will still require dismantling the starter.

see also

Comments 133

Hello, I have a VAZ 2114. The plus on the ignition module has disappeared, where would you recommend dropping the engine control relay? I changed the fuses in order. When I turn the key, the switches click, but there is no plus on the ignition module.

Contact an electrician

Greetings. I have a VAZ 21120. The problem here is that I started the engine, turn it off, but it does not stall, I took out the key, but the engine and the tidy are working, turn it off by paying attention to the main relay. At the same time, I put a new relay on 30a, nothing changes, I put a relay from Ford on 40a, everything works in normal, normal mode, but the engine does not start. What could this be, please tell me

Good day, friends! Greetings from Kazakhstan! The problem is the cooling fan not working. I changed the temperature sensor, removed the fan sensor chip, it was in the way. I assembled everything, and when the highest temperature is reached, I wait for the fan to turn on. It won't turn on. I had to resort to forcibly turning on the fan by disconnecting the sensor chip. The car is a VAZ 2114. If you had such a problem, please share. C/u Timur. I will be immensely grateful.

If there is no signal sent to the engine coolant radiator fan, then it is either the coolant sensor, or the fan relay, or a fuse, or the ECU does not give a turn-on signal. IMHO.

Good day, can you tell me what I might have a VAZ 2114, a week ago the car sat for a day and wouldn’t start, after 2 days I decided to try to start it - it started as if nothing had happened, I drove for a week, the same situation, the car didn’t start for a day again won’t start, the fuel pump is fine It buzzes, the starter turns but there is no spark... I drove it every day. Dampness and rain outside, but what does this affect? ​​Maybe they sent me a relay to see what else it could be?

Good afternoon I have a VAZ 2114. When accelerating sharply, the car accelerates too quickly, then stops, and the traction disappears. I stop, the speed freezes at 2000 rpm, and does not drop. Who had this problem? Please tell me. I will be immensely grateful. Best regards, Timur.

Do they drop when you turn off the ignition?

Yes. The car stalls with a shudder. When restarted it will start.

I would check the timing marks first.

Timing marks? I didn't think so. Thanks Pavel. I'll check and write an answer.

I had something similar on the 2114. It turned out that the generator pulley on the crankshaft had shifted a little, cutting off the pin.

That's it. I'm okay with this. Following your advice, I turned the crankshaft. The belt fell off by two teeth. Thank you very much. The check did not go out, I think there was some kind of error. But the engine began to run smoother.

Do they drop when you turn off the ignition?

The revs fluctuate a little and it stays fine.

I would reset the battery terminal for a few minutes. Then I would check the VUT valve and the VUT hose.

I will definitely do it. But explain what VUT is.

I would reset the battery terminal for a few minutes. Then I would check the VUT valve and the VUT hose.

Isn't this a vacuum cleaner?

I would reset the battery terminal for a few minutes. Then I would check the VUT valve and the VUT hose.

How to change the fuse?

Now that we have figured out the location of the protective devices in the module, let's try to figure out how to troubleshoot a silent signaling device. When the VAZ 2114 signal fuse burns out, a thin copper thread inside melts and breaks, and the electrical circuit is broken. To restore the operation of the electrical device, this miniature part must be replaced. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Find the main module in the engine compartment.
2. Disconnect the block with the bundle of wires from it, and remove the module.
3. The module cover is closed with latches. Remove them and open the lid.
4. In the old and new modules, there is a plastic clothespin. Carefully grab the fuse with a clothespin and remove it from the socket.

Explanation of the additional fuse and relay block

To turn on the main systems of any car, the manufacturer has designed the installation of auxiliary fuses. As a rule, they are located in the center console area. Each auxiliary module consists of several important relays and fuses.

In this particular case, the box is located to the left of the glove compartment, behind the side trim of the center console. To quickly access the box, you need to remove part of the plastic protection. The protection is attached to Phillips bolts, so you need to prepare the appropriate screwdriver.

Location of the additional fuse and relay box 2114, 2115, 2113Additional unit in the passenger compartmentDiagram of the additional unit

Table 3. Explanation of the additional fuse and relay block

How to replace the VAZ-2114 starter solenoid relay

Now let’s move on to the process of dismantling and replacing the “fourteenth” traction relay. Let us immediately note that for this it is better to remove the starter assembly. This way it will be possible to simultaneously check the condition of its brush assembly and bearings. So, the process of replacing the relay is as follows:

1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect the wires from the relay terminals and from the terminal of the starter brush assembly.
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the clutch housing. We remove it from its seat.
4. Unscrew the coupling bolts securing the relay.
5. Disconnect the relay from the starter and install a new one in its place.
6. We carry out installation in reverse order.

Operating principle, design and characteristics of fuses

The principle of operation of fuse links is deciphered by their name. Fuses are made of low-fusible conductors that can withstand a certain amperage. Depending on the purpose and voltage of the circuit being served, fuses are divided according to the current strength they can withstand. Typically, VAZ 2114 uses inserts from 5 to 30 Amperes.

Purpose of fuses

The main purpose of the fuse is to protect devices and equipment from overloads and short circuits. If the maximum limit is exceeded (short circuit inside the wiring circuit), the part is destroyed, which leads to an open line. Consequently, the part remains undamaged.

Common faults

Among the frequent calls to the service station are:

• wiring burnout;
• water entering the contacts and, as a result, closing them;
• damage to wires;
• malfunctions of electronic units.

With rare exceptions, the fuse box itself breaks down.

Checking and replacing fuses and block

To check the fuse for serviceability, remove it from the socket and visually inspect it. If the part is intact, there will be no soot or traces of oxidation on it. Direct replacement is carried out using the pliers included in the kit. It is strictly forbidden to pull out the inserts by loosening them - you can break the legs.

Repairing the block is getting more complicated. Here you will need to perform the following sequence of actions:

• open the mounting panel cover;
• find and unscrew the 4 mounting screws;
• Carefully lift the module and disconnect the terminal blocks.

It is important to exercise extreme caution when performing the procedure - the part can be easily damaged.

This is interesting: How to remove the abs error

How to check the operation of the fuel pump?

First, you should check the fuse. To do this, check the instructions for its location. Next, you should check the voltage at the pump. Before doing this, be sure to check if everything is in order with the battery. The voltage at the fuel pump terminal must be checked using a multimeter or tester. The instruction manual always indicates the required voltage.

Using a tester, check the voltage supply to the fuse. Often this is where the electrical circuit breaks.

If the search does not yield results, then the voltage should be checked on the contacts themselves. All contacts must be in place and connected to ground. A broken contact or its oxidation leads to failure of the fuel pump system. If no broken contacts are detected, but the voltage drops by more than 1 volt, then the problem is in the wiring or oxidation of the contacts. There should be no short circuit in the wiring.

If, after checking the voltage, contacts and fuse, you do not find any problems, then the problem lies in the fuel pump itself. In this case, the fuel pump will most likely require replacement. In practice, it most often turns out that replacement is a last resort. First, you should try to restore and test the fuel pump again.

Before you check the fuel pump, you need to remember that, as mentioned above, pressure is the most important characteristic of the fuel pump, so it is worth measuring its level.

How to check the pressure in the fuel rail?

You will need a pressure gauge that measures pressure in the range from 7 to 10 atmospheres. If you choose a pressure gauge with a large margin, you risk getting less accurate measurement results. Specialized stores sell a kit for measuring pressure, but you can also design your own device.

If you want to assemble the device yourself, you will also need a hose with an internal diameter of 9 millimeters. You will also need plumbing tow, with which you can seal the connection between the pressure gauge and the tube. All parts are connected and tightened using a clamp. You will also need a car spool. Next you need to perform a series of actions:

1. Place the car on a level surface that is prevented from rolling, turn off the ignition and open the hood.
2. Check that the injection nozzles have access to the fuel rail.
3. Find the fuel pressure plug and remove it. Then you should unscrew the nipple using the spool.
4. Prepare an empty container (a regular bucket will do) and a clean rag. This is necessary to collect residual fuel, which under pressure can splash out in different directions. Therefore, take care of the safety of your skin (especially your face and eyes).
5. Connect the device to the fitting and begin checking the mechanism.

Checking the pressure in the fuel rail should occur in four operating modes of the power unit:

• when the ignition is on;
• at idle engine speed;
• code the fuel pressure regulator tube is reset;
• when the drain tube is compressed.

Fuel rail pressure measurement results

The results may vary slightly for different car models, but in general they should be as follows:

• when the ignition is turned on, the pressure must be at least 3 atmospheres,
• at idle engine speed - at least 2.5 atmospheres,
• when the pressure regulator tube is reset - at least 3.3 atmospheres,
• when squeezing the drain tube - at least 7 atmospheres.

Fuel rail pressure fluctuates slightly during preparation. When you press the pedal, it suddenly takes on a value of 3 atmospheres; when you release the pedal, it drops to 2.5 atmospheres. When fuel enters the fuel system, turn off the ignition and begin observing the pressure gauge. The pressure in this case should drop to 0.7 bar and remain unchanged.

If the pressure drops to zero, there may be a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. In this case, the regulator must be replaced immediately. The cause could also be the fuel pump check valve.

It is necessary to observe the behavior of the pressure gauge even at 3,000 engine speeds. A drop in pressure will indicate a faulty fuel pump. Sometimes the fuel pump cannot reach the required pressure for a long time. In this case, the problem lies in a clogged fuel filter, which needs to be replaced, or in a dirty fuel pump mesh (read more about where the fuel filter is located).

If the above methods do not reveal a malfunction of the fuel pump, you will have to diagnose other units (DPZD, IAC, mass air flow sensor, compression in the engine and some other indicators and parts).

Replacing the block

There are malfunctions in which car enthusiasts have to dismantle the mounting block to check it. These malfunctions are associated with the following reasons:

To remove the power supply, you need to remove its cover (you can read how to do this above), disconnect all the wires from it. Further, if the unit is completely faulty, it can be easily removed and a new one installed by reassembling it in the reverse order.

Advice! When disconnecting, be sure to mark the wires so as not to forget what to connect and where when reassembling.

We have discussed how to diagnose problems with PPs and relays, now let’s see how to identify problems with conductive paths and contacts:

• Even an experienced electrician has a hard time identifying this type of damage. Even if the problem is identified, soldering has to be done with very high precision, which requires high qualifications and a lot of time;
• The main problems associated with contacts in the VAZ 2114 power supply arise due to corrosion and contamination of the contacts. You can usually just clean up the contact with a knife or sandpaper. If it breaks off, you can solder it, but this is very labor-intensive and difficult; one wrong move and replacing the block cannot be avoided.

It’s always better to see once, so look at this review of the VAZ 2114 fuse box:

Starter wiring diagram

To understand the electrical part of the starter, let’s first get acquainted with its circuit and try to figure out how it works, what elements it consists of, what task the individual elements of the circuit perform.

The driver inserts the key into the ignition switch (6) and turns the key to start the process. Electric current from the battery (2) is sent to the generator (3) and to the solenoid relay mounted on the starter (1). When the generator is running, it begins to generate electricity and directs it to the tires of the mounting block (4), from where the current flows to the auxiliary starter relay and ignition switch. The relay closes the circuit and directs current to the coil of the solenoid relay, which in turn causes the starter to rotate using bendix. And he starts the engine.