We independently check the voltage regulator relay on the VAZ 2106

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Checking the generator voltage regulator may be necessary when problems with the battery begin to occur. In particular, it began to undercharge or overcharge. When such a malfunction occurs, it’s time to check the generator voltage regulator relay.

The relay should turn off at 14.2-14.5V

The task of this simple device is to regulate the voltage of the electric current that is supplied from the generator to the battery. When it fails, the battery is either not charged enough or, on the contrary, overcharged, which is also dangerous, since this significantly reduces the battery life.

Agree that such a prospect is not very good because of one small detail. This is why it is so important to monitor the operating condition of the voltage regulator (it can also be called a pill or a chocolate bar). But in order to properly check the voltage regulator, you need to know its type and several important features.

Types of Voltage Regulators

Having understood what types of these devices there are, what their features and properties are, a complete understanding of the procedures carried out during testing will come. This will also give the answer to what scheme, in what way and how to check the generator voltage regulator. There are two types of regulators:

In the first case, it is meant that the regulator housing is combined with the brush assembly directly in the generator housing. In the second case, the regulator is a separate unit, which is located on the car body, in the engine compartment, and wires from the generator go to it, and wires from it go to the battery.

A special feature of the regulators is that their housings are non-separable. They are usually filled with sealant or special resin. And there is no particular point in repairing them, since the device is inexpensive. Therefore, the main problem in this regard is to check the generator voltage regulator relay. Regardless of the type of regulator, the voltage symptoms will be the same.

Connecting the unit

Before discarding the device, you should make sure that other parts are in good condition. The belt, alternator, battery, and wires are subject to inspection. The lack of charging of the VAZ 2106 may be caused by a loose belt. If the unit was removed before checking, you should make sure that the wires are connected correctly.

Replacing the voltage regulator is done in a garage. Even an inexperienced driver can do this. You will need a tool, skillful hands and a little knowledge.

Open the hood to find the remote relay. In the Zhiguli, the box is attached with lugs to the left wing. We find the object near the brake fluid reservoir. Some relays are built into the generator housing. People call them integrals.

Do not rush to remove the wiring from the terminals. Experienced car enthusiasts are advised to first mark the wires with a marker. There are 2 gray and orange wires suitable for the VAZ voltage regulator. They are attached to terminals numbered 67 and 15. Do not mix up the wires. The gray color corresponds to the number 67, and the orange color corresponds to 15.

At the end, a re-check is carried out. Diagnosing and replacing the voltage regulator does not require much effort. It is not necessary to go to a service station. Save yourself the expense of material costs and repair the car yourself.

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

The generator in cars is designed to generate electricity and charge the battery. If the normal operation of a car electric generator is disrupted, the battery begins to discharge and soon the car will stop starting completely - there is not enough battery charge. This device consists of a three-phase diode bridge, which, in turn, has 6 silicon diodes. Electrical voltage is created by the excitation of the rectifier at the moment when the rotor poles change under the stator windings. When the rotor rotates inside the machine stator, the poles of the rotor change. To increase the value of magnetic fluxes, the stator contains an electromagnetic exciting winding in the area of ​​the magnetic cores. Marking and designation of wires:

  • P - pink.
  • F - purple.
  • O - orange.
  • B&W - black and white.
  • KB - brown and white.
  • CHG - black and blue.
  • K - brown.
  • H - black.
  • B - white.

Symptoms of a problem

So, in case of low voltage, the battery simply will not charge. That is, in the morning you will not be able to start the car, the lights on the dashboard may not even light up, or troubles will arise while driving. For example, dim headlights at night, unstable operation of the electrical system (problems with electrical appliances - wipers, heaters, radio, etc.).

In case of increased voltage, there is a high probability of a decrease in the electrolyte level in the battery banks, or its boiling. A white coating may also appear on the battery case. When overcharging, the battery may behave inappropriately.

Signs, malfunctions and repair of the generator and voltage regulator

In addition, you can also identify the following signs of a faulty voltage regulator (in some cases, some of them may or may not be present, it all depends on the specific situation):

  • the control light on the dashboard (although this may be a sign of other malfunctions, for example, that it has burned out, the contact has fallen out, and so on);
  • after starting, the battery indicator on the dashboard does not go out, that is, there are obvious malfunctions in charging the battery;
  • the brightness of the headlights becomes dependent on the engine speed (you can check this somewhere in a deserted place by placing the car against a wall and accelerating - if the glow changes, then most likely the voltage regulator is faulty);
  • the car stopped starting normally the first time;
  • The battery is constantly ;
  • when the engine speed exceeds 2000 rpm, the indicators on the dashboard turn off ;
  • the dynamic characteristics of the car decrease , this is especially noticeable at high engine speeds;
  • In some cases, the battery may boil .

Reasons for failure of the relay regulator

The reasons for the failure of the voltage regulator may be:

  • short circuit in the circuit, including interturn short circuit of the excitation winding;
  • failure of the rectifier bridge (diode breakdown);
  • reverse polarity or incorrect connection to the battery terminals;
  • penetration of moisture into the housing of the regulator and/or generator (for example, when washing a car or driving in heavy rain);
  • mechanical damage to the unit;
  • natural wear and tear of the unit, including brushes;
  • poor quality of the device being directly tested.

There are a number of simple methods for checking the regulator, regardless of whether the unit is removable or not.

The simplest way to check the generator voltage regulator

The simplest method of checking the regulator is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. However, it is worth immediately making a reservation that the algorithm given below does not give a 100% probability of failure of the regulator. Perhaps the generator itself has failed. But the advantage of this method is that it is simple and there is no need to dismantle the device from the car. So, the algorithm for checking the generator voltage regulator with a multimeter is as follows:

  • Set the tester to DC voltage measurement mode at a limit of about 20 V (depending on the specific model, the main thing is that it displays values ​​up to 20 V as accurately as possible).
  • Start the engine.
  • Measure the voltage at the battery terminals in idle mode (1000. 1500 rpm). If the regulator and generator are working properly, the value should be within 13.2. 14 V.
  • Increase the speed to 2000. 2500 rpm. In the normal state of the electrical circuit, the corresponding voltage will increase to 13.6. 14.2 V.
  • When the speed increases to 3500 rpm and above, the voltage should not exceed 14.5 V.

If during the test the voltage values ​​are very different from those given, then most likely the machine’s voltage regulator is faulty. Remember that the voltage should not fall below 12V and should not rise above 14.5V.

How to check the generator relay regulator with your own hands

Having examined the device and principle of operation, you can proceed to testing. It is noteworthy that it is quite possible to check the relay regulator in an ordinary garage. To do this, you need to have a regular multimeter with a scale of up to 35 volts, a set of wrenches and screwdrivers.

  • A simple method for checking the generator regulator on a VAZ 2106 assumes the following: a well-charged battery is needed for testing. To perform diagnostics, you need to start the internal combustion engine, turn on the headlights and leave the engine running for 10-15 minutes, while the engine speed does not increase above 2 thousand rpm. Next, you need to use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the battery terminals. The norm is no higher than 14 Volts and no lower than 12 Volts.

If the voltage deviates from the norm, this indicates problems with the relay regulator. Considering that this device cannot be repaired, it needs to be replaced. Replacement involves removing (you need to unscrew a couple of bolts) and installing a new regulator.

  • The second test method should be used when the problem is “floating” (the voltage at the battery terminals is slightly less than 12 Volts or slightly higher than 14 Volts). In such a situation, the regulator must be checked separately by removing it. To check, use a multimeter and a 12 volt light bulb.

Having examined the regulator of the VAZ 2106 generator, you can find a pair of outputs (on the diagrams often marked with the letters B and C). The indicated contacts must be supplied with power from the battery. Two more relay contacts go to the generator brushes. A lamp is connected to the indicated contacts.

If the voltage at the outputs when power is supplied from the battery is not higher than 14 volts, the light will light brightly. If you use a multimeter to increase the voltage at the power supply outputs to 15 volts or higher, the light should go out. If this does not happen, then the regulator has failed. If the light does not light up initially, both in the first and second cases, then the relay needs to be changed.

  • Replacing the VAZ 2106 generator regulator involves selecting a suitable device. It is important to immediately determine what type of device is on the generator (external regulator, internal regulator). The external regulator is located on the front left arch (in the area of ​​the front wheel). The internal regulator is removed after removing the air filter, since the filter blocks access to the generator.

The external regulator can be easily removed (just unscrew the two 10mm bolts holding the relay with an open-end wrench), after which the wires are disconnected. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. The internal regulator is a little more complicated, since you first need to unscrew three 12 nuts. The internal regulator itself is located on the front cover of the generator, secured with two bolts. The bolts are unscrewed with a screwdriver.

Then the relay is carefully pulled out of the generator cover, after which the wires and contact block are removed. When removing the block, special care must be taken, since the contacts are fragile. Next, a new regulator is installed and reassembled.

We also recommend reading the article about why the battery icon on the instrument panel is lit. In this article, you will learn about the main reasons why the battery lights up on the dashboard, as well as how to detect and fix the problem.

  • Please note that external regulators for the VAZ 2106 are almost impossible to find new for sale. We have to pay for used devices. So, the real condition of such a regulator is difficult to visually determine, that is, a check is necessary before purchasing (you can use the methods discussed above).

Regarding internal regulators, the main problem is the wires connected to the relay from the generator. Very often, when replacing, they break in the area of ​​the contact block. If this happens, you will need to cut the block, resolder the wires, make high-quality insulation, and then glue the block back together.

To avoid such problems, when replacing the internal regulator of the VAZ 2106 generator, you need to be extremely careful, do not repair the car in the cold, since the wires break more easily in such conditions, etc.

Checking the combined relay-regulator

Checking the VAZ 2110 voltage regulator

To perform the corresponding check, it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. To do this, use a charger or power supply with an adjustable load (it is important that it be used to regulate the voltage value in the circuit), a 12 V light bulb (for example, from a turn signal or headlight, with a power of 3.4 W), a multimeter, and the regulator itself voltage (this can be from a Bosch, Valeo or other generator). It is advisable to have the wires used for switching with “crocodiles”.

Checking the voltage regulator of the generator 37.3701: 1 - battery; 2 — ground terminal of the voltage regulator; 3 - voltage regulator; 4 – terminal “Ш” of the regulator; 5 — output “B” of the regulator; 6 — control lamp; 7 — terminal “B” of the voltage regulator.

If you assemble a circuit in which the voltage is at a standard value of 12.7 V, then the light bulb will simply glow. But if you use a voltage regulator to raise its value to 14.14.5 V, then if the relay is working, the light should go out. Otherwise the regulator is faulty. That is, when the voltage reaches 14.14.5 V (depending on the model of the machine and, accordingly, the regulator) and above, the light goes out, and when it drops to the same level, it lights up again.

Checking the VAZ 2107 voltage regulator

Checking the voltage regulator on VAZ 2108/2109 cars

Until 1996, a VAZ 2107 with a 37.3701 generator was equipped with an old-style voltage regulator (17.3702). The verification procedure is given above. After 1996, a more modern generator of the G-222 brand was used (integrated regulator RN Ya112V (V1).

As you can see, the verification algorithm for all regulators is almost the same. The only difference is the cutoff values ​​when the relay is activated.

Voltage regulator VAZ 2107 - purpose and first signs of malfunction

The voltage regulator is designed to automatically maintain the current strength so that the voltage generated by the generator is within specified limits, regardless of the rotation speed of the generator shaft (from the engine speed) and the current consumption of the car's electrical network. In VAZ 2107 cars, as a rule, an electronic voltage regulator is installed on the generator.

It is extremely rare that some models may come across an old-style device - a relay regulator. They were installed on generators 37.3701, produced before 1996, and on G-222. First, the device is tested on a running car. To do this, you need a voltmeter with the ability to measure DC voltage. The device must be equipped with a scale for values ​​up to 15–30 V and have an accuracy class of at least 1.0. After starting the VAZ 2107 engine, it is allowed to run with the headlights on for 15 minutes at medium speed.

Then the voltage at the generator output is measured. To do this, the positive probe of the device touches terminal “30” on the generator, and the negative probe touches the ground (generator or car - it doesn’t matter, it’s the same thing). The voltmeter should show a voltage in the range of 13.6–14.6 V. If the measurement result is higher or lower than specified, and the vehicle is experiencing systematic overcharging or undercharging of the battery, then most likely the regulator is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Checking an Individual Regulator

Checking the voltage regulator of the G-222 generator: 1 - battery; 2 - voltage regulator; 3 - control lamp.

As a rule, separate voltage regulators were installed on old cars, including domestic VAZs. But some manufacturers continue to do this to this day. The verification process is similar. To do this, you need to have a power supply with a voltage regulator, a 12 V light bulb, a multimeter and a directly tested regulator.

To check, you need to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The process itself is similar to the one above. In normal condition (at a voltage of 12 V), the light bulb lights up. When the voltage value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out, and when it decreases, it lights up again. If during the process the lamp lights up or goes out at other values, it means that the regulator has failed.

Checking relay type 591.3702-01

Relay test diagram type 591.3702-01

You can also still find a voltage regulator of type 591.3702-01, which was installed on rear-wheel drive VAZs (from VAZ 2101 to VAZ 2107), GAZ and Moskvich. The device is mounted separately and installed on the body. In general, the test is similar to that described above, but the differences are in the contacts used.

In particular, it has two main contacts - “67” and “15”. The first of them is a minus, and the second is a plus. Accordingly, to check it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The verification principle remains the same. In normal condition, at a voltage of 12 V, the light bulb lights up, and when the corresponding value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out. When the value returns to its original value, the light comes on again.

A classic regulator of this type is a device of the PP-380 brand, installed on VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2102 cars. We provide reference data regarding this regulator.

Adjustable voltage at regulator and ambient temperature (50±3)° C, V:
at the first stageno more than 0.7
on the second stage14,2 ± 0,3
Resistance between plug “15” and ground, Ohm17,7 ± 2
Resistance between plug “15” and plug “67” with open contacts, Ohm5,65 ± 0,3
Air gap between armature and core, mm1,4 ± 0,07
Distance between second stage contacts, mm0,45 ± 0,1

Testing a three-level relay

Regulated power supply

Some car owners install on their cars, instead of standard “chocolate bars,” three-level relays, which are technologically more advanced. Their difference is the presence of three voltage levels at which the battery power is cut off (for example, 13.7 V, 14.2 V and 14.7 V). The appropriate level can be set manually using a special regulator.

Such relays are more reliable and allow flexible adjustment of the cutoff voltage level. As for checking such a regulator, it is completely similar to the procedures described above. Just do not forget about the value that is set on the relay, and accordingly, check it with a multimeter.

Generator check

There is one method by which you can check the performance of a car generator equipped with a regulator relay 591.3702-01 with diagnostic elements. It is as follows:

  • disconnect the wires that went to pins 67 and 15 of the voltage regulator;
  • connect a light bulb to it (excluding the regulator from the circuit);
  • Remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery.

If, as a result of these actions, the engine does not stall, then we can say that the car’s generator is in order. Otherwise, it is faulty and needs to be checked and replaced.

Types of structures

There are 2 types of regulators: old and new. They replace each other, although they contain different fillings. The old design is equipped with a mechanical relay. VAZ cars are equipped with a voltage regulator of the PP-380 type. Devices of this series use moving contacts to switch on resistors.

This spare part has been removed from mass production. Nowadays such specimens are rare. The vibration regulator PP-380 also has a number of disadvantages. Let us point out the difficulties in operating the contact option:

  • need for customization;
  • step adjustment;
  • periodic cleaning of the contact group;
  • low reliability;
  • creates radio interference;
  • short service life.

Recommendations for increasing the service life of the regulator

In order to increase the service life of the voltage regulator, it is necessary to adhere to several simple rules aimed at implementing preventive measures. Among them:

  • do not allow excessive contamination of the generator, periodically inspect its condition, and, if necessary, dismantle and clean the unit;
  • check the tension of the alternator belt, tighten it if necessary (either yourself or in a car service);
  • monitor the condition of the generator windings, in particular, do not allow them to darken;
  • check the contact on the control wire of the relay-regulator, both its quality and the presence of oxidation on it;
  • Perform periodic voltage checks on the vehicle battery with the engine running.

Removing and installing the voltage regulator

Replacing the external voltage regulator VAZ 2101-2106

1) Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts and remove the regulator.

2) Disconnect the two wires.

3) Attach the new regulator to the mudguard and connect the wires: orange to terminal “15”, and gray to terminal “67”.

Voltage regulator relay connection diagram

ATTENTION! Before starting the engine, make sure that the contact between the voltage regulator housing and the vehicle ground is reliable, and that the wires to terminals “15” and “67” are connected correctly.

Repair of voltage regulator relay on VAZ 2107

Usually the fact that the VAZ 2107 has a voltage regulator is remembered when a problem arises with charging the battery. To be completely precise in the definitions, the voltage relay comes to mind immediately as soon as it turns out that, despite the presence of charging, the battery is almost completely discharged. Let's take a closer look at why a voltage regulator is needed in a VAZ 2107 car. Without going into the intricacies of electronics, the voltage regulator is designed to regulate the voltage at the generator output depending on the engine operating mode. It is quite natural that as the speed changes, the voltage level also changes. And if it drops to 12 volts or lower, the battery stops charging.

Therefore, if you suspect a malfunction in the VAZ 2107 charging system, you must first check the voltage at the battery terminals. This can be done using a regular voltmeter or multimeter (tester). In normal mode, the voltage should be approximately 13-14 volts

If it drops below 13, you should pay attention to the relay; it may need to be replaced

Depending on the type of generator used in the car, the regulator can be internal three-level and external. The internal one is built into the generator and is usually used in VAZ 2105 and 2107 cars, while the external one is used in earlier classic models and is located in the engine compartment on the left arch.

Depending on the type of regulator, replacing it has its own characteristics. Replacing the external regulator is no problem. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the two fastening nuts and disconnect the wires from terminals 15 and 67. The new relay is installed in the reverse order. After checking that the wires are connected correctly to the terminals of the regulator, and that its body is in reliable contact with ground, you can start the engine and measure the voltage again to ensure that the fault has been eliminated.

The internal three-level one is somewhat more difficult to change due to limited access to the generator. But, despite this, the task is quite doable even without removing it. Replacing the regulator, as in the case of an external one, comes down to disconnecting the wires and unscrewing two mounting screws using a Phillips screwdriver. After this, the relay is removed from the generator housing. Installing a new regulator occurs in the reverse order. After assembly, the voltage level is checked.

It should be noted that the regulator is not always replaced due to its failure. Recently, more and more often, car enthusiasts have resorted to replacing the generator along with the relay from an old model to a new one. This kind of tuning becomes possible thanks to the complete interchangeability of both models. The reason that prompts car owners to take such a step is the high efficiency that distinguishes the three-level regulator from the standard one.

New type relays provide the required voltage level in automatic mode. Plus, it has a wider adjustment range than the standard one, so the battery receives an optimal charge. Under such conditions, the service life of the battery is significantly increased. In the schematic diagram of the electrical circuits of the VAZ 2107 shown below, the relay is indicated by the number 7.

Cost and interchangeability

Built-in relay voltage regulator 71.3702 for generator G-222

The average price for a voltage regulator, both built into the brushes and remote, is about 100 rubles.

Models of generators G-221 and G-222 are interchangeable, that is, you can easily install a new generator from the “seven” for a “penny”, but you should pay attention to the correct charge of the battery. To do this, it is necessary to modify the electrical wiring according to the standard connection diagram.

Depending on the situation, either install an external voltage regulator relay, or, conversely, remove the external one and leave one built into the generator.

The normal voltage in the car's on-board network is considered to be in the range of 13.5-14.5 Volts.

The generator voltage regulator relay is an integral part of the electrical system of any car. It is used to maintain voltage within a certain range of values. In this article you will learn about what designs of regulators currently exist, including mechanisms that have not been used for a long time.

Basic automatic control processes

It doesn't matter what type of generator set is used in the car. In any case, it has a regulator in its design. The automatic voltage regulation system allows you to maintain a certain parameter value, regardless of the frequency at which the generator rotor rotates. The figure shows the generator voltage regulator relay, its diagram and appearance.

By analyzing the physics by which a generator set operates, it can be concluded that the output voltage increases as the rotor speed becomes higher. It can also be concluded that voltage regulation is carried out by reducing the current supplied to the rotor winding as the rotation speed increases.

Let's sum it up

As you can see, the generator relay for a VAZ or any other car is an important and responsible device. Moreover, any malfunctions in its operation will lead to the fact that the car’s battery will not be charged properly. In this case, both low and high battery charge will quickly damage the battery.

We also recommend reading the article about what to do if the electrolyte in the battery freezes. From this article you will learn why the electrolyte in the battery freezes, as well as what to do if the car battery freezes.

If the signs of a generator regulator failure discussed above appear to a greater or lesser extent, it is necessary to check the regulator using one of the methods discussed above. Finally, we note that it is not difficult to replace the generator voltage regulator on a VAZ, but some nuances must be taken into account separately.

What is a generator

Any car generator consists of several parts:

1. A rotor with an excitation winding, around which an electromagnetic field is created during operation.

2. A stator with three windings connected in a star configuration (alternating voltage is removed from them in the range from 12 to 30 Volts).

3. In addition, the design contains a three-phase rectifier consisting of six semiconductor diodes. It is worth noting that the VAZ 2107 generator voltage relay-regulator (injector or carburetor in the injection system) is the same.

But the generator will not be able to operate without a voltage regulation device. The reason for this is the voltage change over a very wide range. Therefore, it is necessary to use an automatic control system. It consists of a comparison device, control, executive, master and special sensor. The main element is the regulatory body. It can be either electrical or mechanical.

Generator operation

When the rotor begins to rotate, some voltage appears at the generator output. And it is supplied to the excitation winding through a control element. It is also worth noting that the generator set output is connected directly to the battery. Therefore, voltage is constantly present on the excitation winding. When the rotor speed increases, the voltage at the generator set output begins to change. A voltage regulator relay from a Valeo generator or any other manufacturer is connected to the generator output.

In this case, the sensor detects the change, sends a signal to a comparing device, which analyzes it, comparing it with a given parameter. Next, the signal goes to the control device, from which it is supplied to the actuator. The regulatory body is able to reduce the value of the current that flows to the rotor winding. As a result, the voltage at the generator set output is reduced. In a similar way, the mentioned parameter is increased in the event of a decrease in rotor speed.

Two-level regulators

A two-level automatic control system consists of a generator, a rectifier element, and a battery. It is based on an electric magnet, its winding is connected to the sensor. The driving devices in these types of mechanisms are very simple. These are ordinary springs. A small lever is used as a comparison device. It is mobile and makes switching. The actuator is the contact group. The control element is a constant resistance. Such a generator voltage regulator relay, the diagram of which is given in the article, is very often used in technology, although it is morally outdated.

Operation of a two-level regulator

When the generator operates, a voltage appears at the output, which is supplied to the winding of the electromagnetic relay. In this case, a magnetic field arises, with its help the lever arm is attracted. The latter is acted upon by a spring, which is used as a comparing device. If the voltage becomes higher than expected, the contacts of the electromagnetic relay open. In this case, a constant resistance is included in the circuit. Less current is supplied to the field winding. The voltage regulator relay for the VAZ 21099 generator and other domestic and imported cars operates on a similar principle. If the voltage at the output decreases, then the contacts are closed, and the current strength changes upward.

How does a mechanical voltage regulator work?

Now let's look at the principle of operation of a mechanical type regulator. When you start the engine, the generator rotor begins to rotate. If the rotation speed does not exceed two thousand revolutions per minute, then the voltage at the generator output is stable. It does not exceed 14.8 Volts. When the engine and generator operate in this way, the regulator does not function and passes current to the excitation winding. But as soon as you increase the crankshaft speed, the relay-regulator comes into operation.

In this case, the winding connected to the brushes instantly responds to excess voltage at the output terminal of the generator set. The winding is magnetized by the core and attracts the armature. This opens the contacts. And if, when operating at low speeds, only one resistor was connected to the circuit, then when the speed is exceeded, all three are used. This reduces the voltage supplied to the excitation winding of the VAZ 2106 generator.

Electronic regulator

Two-level mechanical voltage regulators have a big drawback - excessive wear of the elements. For this reason, instead of an electromagnetic relay, semiconductor elements operating in key mode began to be used. The operating principle is similar, only the mechanical elements are replaced by electronic ones. The sensing element is made on a voltage divider, which consists of constant resistors. A zener diode is used as a driving device.

The modern relay-voltage regulator of the VAZ 21099 generator is a more advanced device, reliable and durable. The executive part of the control device operates on transistors. As the voltage at the generator output changes, the electronic switch closes or opens the circuit, and additional resistance is connected if necessary. It is worth noting that two-level regulators are imperfect devices. Instead, it is better to use more modern developments.

Design of contact relays of regulators

Even 20-25 years ago, contact-type relay regulators were installed on VAZ 2106 cars. Today they are outdated. Car generators use exclusively electronic devices. But to understand the principle of operation, you need to consider contact systems. The basis of such a mechanism is the winding, which magnetizes the metal core. The winding contains about 1300 turns of copper wire.

If you are diagnosing this winding, you need to know that its resistance is 17 ohms. If during diagnostics it turns out that this value is much different from the reference value, then there is either an interturn short circuit or a short circuit to the device body. The design also includes contacts made of tungsten. A specially designed magnetic shunt, a plate designed to make adjustments.

Bracket, suspension, small springs, adjusting screws on a plate with terminals. But the most important thing in the design is resistance (fixed resistors). The regulator switches these resistors. Depending on the voltage at the generator output, their connection diagram changes. The maximum resistance value in the circuit is 80 ohms.

Three-level regulation system

The quality of regulation of such structures is much higher than that of those previously discussed. Previously, mechanical designs were used, but today non-contact devices are more common. All elements used in this system are the same as those discussed above. But the operating principle is slightly different. First, voltage is applied through a divider to a special circuit in which information is processed. It is possible to install such a generator voltage regulator relay (Ford Sierra can also be equipped with similar equipment) on any car if you know the device and connection diagram.

Here the actual value is compared with the minimum and maximum. If the voltage deviates from the value that is set, then a certain signal appears. It is called a mismatch signal. It is used to regulate the current flowing to the excitation winding. The difference from a two-level system is that there are several additional resistances.

Modern voltage regulation systems

If the voltage regulator relay for the generator of a Chinese scooter is two-level, then more advanced devices are used on expensive cars. Multilevel control systems can contain 3, 4, 5 or more additional resistances. There are also tracking automatic control systems. In some designs, you can refuse to use additional resistances.

Instead, the frequency of operation of the electronic key increases. It is simply impossible to use circuits with electromagnetic relays in servo control systems. One of the latest developments is a multi-level control system that uses frequency modulation. In such designs, additional resistances are required, which are used to control logic elements.

How to remove the relay regulator

Removing the generator voltage regulator relay ("Lanos" or domestic "nine" - it doesn't matter) is quite simple. It is worth noting that when replacing the voltage regulator, you only need one tool - a flat-head or Phillips screwdriver. There is no need to remove the generator or the belt and its drive. Most of the devices are located on the back cover of the generator, and are combined into a single unit with a brush mechanism. The most common breakdowns occur in several cases.

Firstly, when completely erasing the graphite brushes. Secondly, in case of breakdown of a semiconductor element. How to check the regulator will be discussed below. When removing, you will need to disconnect the battery. Disconnect the wire that connects the voltage regulator to the generator output. By unscrewing both mounting bolts, you can pull out the device body. But the voltage regulator relay of the VAZ 2101 generator has an outdated design - it is mounted in the engine compartment, separately from the brush assembly.

How to test a generator with a multimeter

The diode bridge of the generator can be checked with a multimeter, but you can also use the stand that was used to check the regulator.

But before that, first of all, without removing the rectifier bridge from the generator, connect the red wire of the tester to terminal 30 of the generator, and the black wire to the housing. Set the tester operating mode to dial (diode icon). If it is not there, then set it to 1-2 kOhm. The multimeter should show infinity. If the readings are different, the diode bridge is faulty.

Then check the current rectifiers for breakdown. Leave the positive (red) probe on terminal 30, touch the negative one to the bridge mounting bolts one by one. The multimeter display should show infinity in all cases; any others mean a breakdown.

Next, connect the positive probe to the axle mounting bolts, and the negative probe to the generator housing. In this case, the tester should also output infinity.

But in practice, such verification is most often not enough. In most cases, it is necessary to ring the generator in more detail.

Careful testing

To do this, unscrew the fastening bolts of the rectifier unit, disconnect the copper wires of the stator winding and remove the diode bridge from the generator. Now you can test each semiconductor individually. Before checking, it is advisable to rinse the stabilizer with running water using a medium-hard brush, and then dry thoroughly. For quick drying, a hair dryer is quite suitable.

Attach one of the tester probes to the diode plate, connect the second to the central terminal of each diode fixed to this plate. Then swap the probes. In one case, the multimeter should show infinity, in the other - a nominal resistance of approximately 570-590 Ohms. Rectifiers are considered faulty if:

  • In the first and second measurements (when the polarity was changed), the multimeter readings are the same;
  • Diode resistance is greater or less than nominal values.

Perform the same actions with the second plate of the diode bridge. If a fault is detected in one or more diodes, it will be easier to replace the entire rectifier unit. True, there are craftsmen who replace failed diodes individually, but such work requires a certain skill and dexterity.

Checking the armature and stator windings

Further inspection requires completely disassembling the generator. First of all, visually check the anchor. Brush rings should not show any blackening, chipping or wear on the treadmills. Blackening and slight wear can be smoothed out with zero-grade emery cloth. Rings with deep grooves must be replaced or, if the thickness of the rings allows, turned on a lathe.

The armature winding should not clearly smell like burning. The color of the winding must be uniform and free of damage and breaks. To check the armature winding for a break, you will need a multimeter. Set the operating mode to continuity testing or resistance measurement and connect the probes to the brush rings. The winding resistance should be within 3-5 Ohms. Then leave one probe on the ring, connect the other to the body. The multimeter display should show infinity.

The generator stator is diagnosed after removal from the housing. First of all, carry out a visual inspection. There should be no visible damage to the wire or its insulation. Then connect the tester wire to the stator housing. With the second wire, touch the terminals one by one. There are only three of them. The tester must be in dialing mode. If the display shows infinity, this indicates that the stator is working properly.

Further testing consists of diagnosing the windings. The resistance of all three windings must be the same.

Before assembling the generator, you need to check and, if necessary, replace the bearings. When turning, they should not jam or make a creaking sound. This means that they are very worn out and will soon fail. Therefore, it is better to replace them immediately.

Device check

The relay-regulator of the voltage of the VAZ 2106 generator, “kopecks”, and foreign cars is checked equally. As soon as you remove it, look at the brushes - they should be more than 5 millimeters long. If this parameter is different, the device must be replaced. To carry out diagnostics, you will need a constant voltage source. It would be desirable to be able to change the output characteristic. You can use a battery and a couple of AA batteries as a power source. You also need a lamp, it must run on 12 Volts. You can use a voltmeter instead. Connect the plus from the power supply to the voltage regulator connector.

Accordingly, connect the negative contact to the common plate of the device. Connect a light bulb or voltmeter to the brushes. In this state, voltage should be present between the brushes if 12-13 Volts are supplied to the input. But if you supply more than 15 Volts to the input, there should be no voltage between the brushes. This is a sign that the device is working properly. And it doesn’t matter at all whether the voltage regulator relay of the VAZ 2107 generator or another car is diagnosed. If the control lamp lights up at any voltage value or does not light up at all, it means that there is a malfunction of the unit.

Purpose of the device

The generator voltage depends on the following factors:

  1. Rotor speeds.
  2. Current load.
  3. Magnetic flux values.

A sufficient condition for the generation of electrical energy is the rotation of the rotor of the VAZ 2106 generator in a magnetic field. Magnetic flux crosses the stator windings. AC voltage is generated. The generator diodes rectify the current.

The role of the electromagnet is performed by the excitation winding. It is laid in the grooves of the rotating part. The excitation voltage is supplied to it through the brush assembly. By changing the strength of the current passing through the winding, generation is controlled.

The VAZ 2106 (RR) voltage regulator controls the rotor winding current. The block changes the resistance of the excitation circuit depending on the network voltage level. The generator responds as expected. This way the device returns the generator voltage to normal.

Increased demands are placed on the operation of the control unit. They are determined by working conditions and technical characteristics of consumers. All equipment that is connected to the passenger vehicle network is designed for 12 volts (V). The VAZ voltage regulator must maintain a range from 13.2 to 14.4 V. This gap should not depend on the number of rotor revolutions and ampere load.

The voltage regulator relay should turn on automatically after starting the engine. In addition to its main purpose, the device performs additional functions:

  • protects the generator from overloads;
  • recharges the battery;
  • protects devices from overvoltage.

Proper operation of the PP will protect electrical equipment from overvoltage. Failure to charge will shorten the battery life. Low mains voltage will make it difficult to start a cold engine.

conclusions

In the electrical system of a car, the voltage regulator relay of the Bosch generator (as, indeed, of any other company) plays a very important role. Monitor its condition as often as possible and check for damage and defects. Cases of failure of such a device are not uncommon. In this case, in the best case, the battery will be discharged. And in the worst case, the supply voltage in the on-board network may increase. This will lead to the failure of most electricity consumers. In addition, the generator itself may fail. And its repair will cost a tidy sum, and considering that the battery will fail very quickly, the costs will be astronomical. It is also worth noting that the Bosch generator voltage regulator relay is one of the leaders in sales. It has high reliability and durability, and its characteristics are as stable as possible.

Device diagnostics

A malfunction of the charging circuit elements can be detected while driving. With the engine running, look at the instrument panel. When the voltage drops, the charging relay turns on the light. The alarm indicates a possible failure of the PP.

To check the voltage regulator, you need a voltmeter. The tester can be purchased at a store or borrowed from a familiar electrician. The mode switch is set to the limit of 20 V. The common wire (black) is connected to the ground of the passenger car, and the red probe is placed on the “+” sign of the battery.

You can check the relay regulator with the engine running and the battery fully charged. The sequence of actions to diagnose the device should be as follows:

  1. Use the ignition key to start the engine.
  2. Turn on the load (high beam headlights).
  3. Warm up the engine for 15 minutes.
  4. We set the rotation speed to 2.5 thousand using the tachometer.
  5. We take tester readings at the battery terminals.

After completing all the points, an analysis is carried out. If the needle on the instrument scale is within 14.2 V, then the regulator copes with its task. In this case, the voltage should not significantly depend on the number of revolutions.

Deviation of indicators from the norm indicates a breakdown of the regulator.

Remember that the electronic relay does not allow the terminals to be removed from the battery while the engine is running. This leads to voltage surges and failure of electronic devices.

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