Now you can, so to speak, see with your own eyes why the door on the VAZ-2110 did not open from the inside. We replace the old worn plastic tip with a new one. At the end of the rod there is a thread onto which it is screwed. So we just twist it and screw on a new one. We check how everything works by opening and closing the door several times. Then all that remains is to simply put it in the handle and assemble the entire structure.
Adjusting the VAZ-2110 door lock
It is difficult to imagine a modern car without doors. It is through them that the driver and passengers gain access to the cabin. At the same time, the path to the vehicle must be closed to unauthorized persons. This function is assigned to one of the door elements - the lock.
Long-term operation in different temperature conditions and frequent operation can lead to premature failure or disruption of the adjustment of some elements. In this case, the car locks may not fully cope with their functions or may even refuse to work at all. In such a situation, the car owner must take timely measures to configure and adjust the door lock. Otherwise, one day he himself may not get into his car.
Features of doors and locks
The operating principle and design of most locking devices installed on cars are practically the same. Of all the car locks, only the ignition switch is the most reliable. It is he who is the last to protect the car from theft after an attacker has entered the cabin. In turn, the doors have to withstand various mechanical impacts day after day, which inevitably lead to wear. At the same time, rarely do any car enthusiasts take proper care of their doors and locking devices.
What functions do car doors perform? There are two of them - protective (preventing unauthorized persons from entering the cabin) and insulating (creating a tightness of the car to prevent rain, wind, snow, cold, and so on from entering it).
Door device
The design is a metal sheet with niches and holes for fastenings. The internal cavities are designed for soundproofing pads, electrical wires, speakers, window lift system, lock and handle. The door is attached to cast hinges, the rim is lined with a rubber seal. Glass is inserted into the niche. The diameter of the gaps is checked at the factory: no more than 1–2 cm. A standard car is produced without an additional upgrade. Modification of the machine by inexperienced drivers can lead to door malfunction.
Lada 2112 tazoandru › Logbook › The door is hard to open - Resolved
I already did this work in the summer, as soon as I purchased the car. This time I decided to show the solution to the problem in detail. And I also noticed that it is on the driver’s side that the door starts to open with difficulty, apparently because I open it most often)
For work we need: A wonderful liquid called WD-40, a screwdriver and, of course, straight hands) First, we check that the problem exists and has not disappeared anywhere :)
Yes, to open the door, you need to make some effort. Then we begin to remove the trim.
Unscrew everything that is circled) Remove the plastic cover
and unscrew 2 screws. Then, simply by pulling towards yourself, the casing is removed, it is held on by pistons, which do not really want to be removed
This is what we see when we remove the trim
and this is how some of my pistons came off
Having reached the castle, we see this... this is exactly what we need
we unhook it (which is not so easy), and then we kind of increase it (unscrew it), I did like four turns
and of course we put it in place. I also lubricated the miracle lock with WD-40.
and on this side of the lock, it’s better to lubricate it too
We put everything back together in reverse order. Well, of course, you will have to suffer with the pistons; they will not fall into place so easily :)
Checking the work done)
Now the door opens easily, literally - with one finger
How to determine the reason why the car door does not slam shut and eliminate it
A common problem is a loose bolt on the coupling between the actuator and the lock rod.
If your car door won't close, in most cases you can fix it yourself. To do this, you first need to determine the cause of the malfunction. In the warm season, you should make sure that there is no damage to the door leaf and opening, as well as foreign objects that impede locking, and check the integrity of the visible parts of the lock. When a car door does not close in winter, the reason most likely lies in the formation of ice inside the lock. This problem can be eliminated or eliminated by warming up the lock, or treating its mechanism with alcohol or defroster.
If these simple manipulations do not help, you may have to remove the lock, and to check its electrical components you need a multimeter that supports voltage measurement modes and continuity testing to find out if there is power there.
What to do if the door does not close: how to find a breakdown
To figure out why the car door won’t close, you need to act in this order:
It is necessary to remove the card and determine the functionality of the mechanisms and electrical contacts.
If during troubleshooting it was not possible to detect mechanical faults, and you reached the electrical part (point 7), the complexity of further actions depends on the design of the car. On old and budget cars there are a minimum of components - limit switches, solenoid and wires. On new high-end cars, the locks are complex, connected to the ECU CAN bus, and sometimes the causes of problems with their electronics can only be identified with the help of service diagnostic equipment.
On modern models, you can determine why a car door won’t close using an OBD-2 scanner. Errors B0545-B0553, common to all brands, indicate problems with ajar door limit switches. Most manufacturers use their own codes. Errors such as 00928, 00929, 02115, 00138, 00096 and other codes indicate specific problem lock components on VAG vehicles (Volkswagen, Skoda, Audi, SEAT and others).
Reassembly
Assembly is done in reverse order, but with one caveat. The perimeter trim is secured with plastic rivets, which are very fragile and often break when removed. Before installation, you must replace all of them with new ones. Otherwise, due to a loose fit, the casing will rattle when driving.
To replace, you only need a flathead screwdriver. It is necessary to remove the dowel from the door hole and insert a rivet into the trim. It is not recommended to leave old kits, they are disposable. When the door trim is ready for installation, first carefully press it against the door, trying to align all the rivets with the dowels. Next, apply light pressure along the perimeter to press it tightly. That's it, you can tighten the screws and put the speaker in place.
Now you know what to do if the door on a VAZ-2110 does not open from the inside. The repair budget will be about 200-300 rubles, the time cost will be no more than half an hour. Minimum effort will be required to fix this problem. The work is completely simple. This procedure is suitable if any front door on a VAZ-2110 cannot be opened from the inside. The actions in all cases are similar and do not require additional description.
To open the door of a VAZ 2112 from the passenger compartment, when you pull the opening handle, you need to pull the door towards yourself for it to open. Otherwise, if you don’t pull the door towards you, it won’t open, why?
- The front door does not close in cold weather on 2112 - 2 answers
- The passenger door of the VAZ 2112 does not open well - 2 answers
- The pneumatic-hydraulic struts of the fifth door of the VAZ 2112 work poorly - 2 answers
- The door does not close well on the VAZ 2112 - 2 answers
- Do I need to use sealant when replacing door seals? – 2 answers
Because the lock needs to be adjusted. The latch clamps, you need to move it a little. Just don’t close the door with loose screws, move it a little, tighten it, try it. And so on until you adjust it as needed. There the lock itself moves a little and the counter part is on the stand.
This is because the mechanism is worn out, there is a little wear here, a little there, but in the end we have what we have.
Even more useful tips in a convenient format
Guys, help, in general, the rear right door does not open, not from the outside or from the inside. It's as if it's jammed. How and what to do? maybe someone knows? There were frosts, the door froze, well, somehow I opened it, and then it completely closed and that’s it SO THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED I’ll try to do everything with pictures and explanations, since I’m not the only one, I hope the post won’t be deleted, as it might be useful to someone So, I removed the door card, naturally it was cramped and uncomfortable.
I had to unscrew the rear window guide (it looks like velvet glass seals) and the view became better. In order to understand what was working wrong, I opened and removed the same thing from the second door, closed it and began to study the result of what kind of thrust the lock has, we can say the total, or rather there are two thrusts (external and internal handle), then one of the locks are combined (it turns out like knee) when you open it from the street, one part of the knee moves, and when from the inside, the knee is assembled. I switch to the jammed door and observe that when opening the rod from the street, part of the knee moves like everything else (but this is just a part), I open it from the passenger compartment, the second part does not move and therefore the knee assembly also does not produce any action. Yeah, I see. I look at the working side.
When the door is closed, the center of the knee is at the top, but on my door it is at the bottom when closed, and thereby jammed and blocked this draft. Somehow I crawled up, and trying to lift this knee up, it worked, but not the first time. - I open it from the salon and the door comes loose, and says get out of here, I close the tongue on the open door, check the knee, everything is as it should be, I open it, everything works. Until I thought of this option, I tried as the guys here advised, namely, I tried to heat the castle with my mother’s hairdryer, it took a long time, it was terribly hot. If the tongue were frozen, it would thaw anyway IT DID NOT WORK FOR ME There is another option, as I understand it: we remove the back of the seat, pull out the seal, and a decent gap opens, in which you can see part of the lock and part of the bolt; if you try really hard, you can crawl there with something thin, and get into the lower part of the tongue on the lock and the door will open, I tried it on a working door, IT WORKS, but I didn’t have enough patience on a broken one, so this option DID NOT HELP me. So I think it will be useful for someone, but what if the moderators delete it? I’ll try to create an entry in the forum, only without pictures Thanks to everyone who gave advice, perhaps they will be the solution to the problem for others, but I had a slightly different problem PS leave an entry, it may be useful.
Source
Door assembly
The door assembly must be done carefully. The plastic rivets that hold the VAZ skin in place are very fragile. They often break during door disassembly. Therefore, it is better to replace them with new ones. Otherwise, the casing will fly off while driving or begin to rattle when listening to music loudly.
To replace the rivets you will need a flathead screwdriver. Pull the dowel out of the door hole. Then insert a new rivet into the panel. There is no need to store the old kit. These parts are disposable.
After collecting the cladding, carefully press it against the door. Don't press too hard. Align all the dowels and rivets. Secure the cladding with light pressure. Tighten the screws and put the speakers in place.
Now you know what to do if the front door of a VAZ 2110 does not open from the inside or outside. The cost of repair will be no more than 300 rubles, excluding new screwdrivers. The work will take 30 minutes. Anyone can remove the door and install the tip, even without specialized skills. At a service station they will charge 500 rubles for such a service.
Unlocking the lock
If the lock is blocked due to water ingress in winter, there are several ways to solve the problem:
- Use a lock defroster. The substance is otherwise called “liquid key”. The product is available in the form of a spray.
- Take matches and a lighter. Heat the key a little in the fire and insert it into the lock. Shake slightly to the sides. The main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to break the VAZ lock.
- Spray the keyhole with alcohol or an alcohol-containing substance. For example, cologne or eau de toilette. Pure alcohol actively generates heat and dissolves ice.
- Make a heating pad from a bottle of warm water or a bag of hot sand. Place the makeshift heater against the lock. Keep the heating pad on for a couple of minutes.
- Pour some windshield washer fluid inside the lock. Remember, the washer contains isopropyl alcohol, which has an aggressive effect on metal.
- Take a cocktail straw and insert it into the lock hole. Breathe inside. Warm air can melt ice.
- Try applying silicone grease around the perimeter of the rubber seal. In some cases, the car door freezes in this very place.
- Direct the hose containing the exhaust gas from the pipe of another vehicle into the lock.
If none of the methods help, all that remains is to drive the VAZ inside a warm garage. There the car will warm up, you can try to open the driver's door.
Never pour boiling water into the lock. This may damage the electrical wiring.
Why the car door does not close from the central locking and alarm key fob
One door does not close with the central lock, using the example of Deu Sens: video
If the car door does not close with the alarm key fob or central locking, but is locked manually, geometry problems can be ruled out. The reason lies in the electrical wiring or the lock wedge. When a car door does not close after washing in winter, most often this indicates freezing of moving parts, for example, a return spring, or shorting of contacts. Below is a table of the main reasons why the door does not close from the central lock or from the key fob.
The car door does not close using the remote control: the main reasons
The door does not close from the alarm or central locking after washing | Moisture entering and freezing in the lock | Defrost (heat or defrost) the lock parts, lubricate them |
Wiring short circuit | Check the wires going into the door to the lock, ring them for short circuit, finding a diagram for your model | |
Broken wire or lock contact | Check the wires going in the corrugation to the door by inspecting and testing with a multimeter, replace, solder or twist (for a temporary solution) the damaged wire | |
Malfunction of the alarm unit or central locking | Diagnose and repair or replace the alarm or central locking unit | |
Car door won't close in cold weather | Frosting of the lock or actuator | If the door does not close after a winter wash or frost, some parts of the lock are frozen, you need to defrost, dry and lubricate the moving parts |
The door closes with an alarm and immediately opens | Problems with central locking electronics | Diagnose the electrical components of the lock, eliminate short circuits or broken contacts, replace failed parts (such as relays or microswitches, limit switches) |
Stuck microswitch or limit switch that determines the central locking position | ||
Solenoid stuck open | If one of the solenoids cannot close completely (partially or completely), the alarm or central locking system “thinks” that the doors need to be opened and opens it. It is necessary to identify a stuck actuator by turning off the door lock drives one by one, identify the defect and repair or replace the drive, after which the problem disappears | |
Central locking does not close the door using the key fob | My battery is almost done | Replace the key fob battery |
Broken wiring | Check the wires to the actuators, restore or replace broken ones | |
Souring of contacts | Check the central locking wiring contacts, wash and clean oxidation from the terminals and pads | |
The doors with central locking do not close from the driver's seat | Failure of the electrical components of the central locking system responsible for determining the position of the lock | Check the limit switches and/or microswitches in the driver's door, identify a jammed or faulty element and replace it |
You can indirectly determine the location of the malfunction if the central locking does not close one door. This is what needs to be examined first.
What will be needed for repairs
If the outside lock stops opening, go straight to the store. You will need to purchase:
- several new plastic tips suitable for VAZ;
- set of screwdrivers - one flat, Phillips;
- a set of plastic rivets that secure the casing.
All parts are sold at an automotive supply store. It is better to buy spare parts with a reserve, several sets. The parts are inexpensive. They can also come in handy if the door stops opening not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Take the sheathing fasteners just in case, since the sheet may have to be removed.
Design of silent locks
The silent lock works on the latch principle, which allows you to close the car door very quietly and effortlessly. Structurally, the lock consists of the following main parts:
- internal structure;
- outer panel;
- finger.
The control rod from the door handles, the rod from the cylinder, as well as the locking buttons are connected to the inside. During installation, the structure is connected to the outdoor unit using screws. As a result, a single mechanism is formed.
When closing, the outer part engages with a locking bar, which is attached to the car body pillar. As a result, the door is held closed.
The latch pin is a part that is covered with a plastic shell.
In addition to the fact that the door no longer needs to be closed with a slam, an additional advantage of such structures is that their rubbing surfaces are covered with plastic; they do not require additional care in the form of constant cleaning and lubrication.
How to restore car door locks
Many motorists have experienced poor performance of car door limiters. From the very beginning, the device begins to work in a certain position, then it breaks down completely. It is not entirely safe to operate a vehicle with such a malfunction.
To repair door stops, you can use one of several methods that experts offer.
Use metal nails or bushings. Many drivers claim that this is one of the safest and most convenient ways. In addition, he does not spend a lot of time, much less money. However, there are some dangers that can be encountered by 90% of motorists. The fact is that when inserting a nail into a faulty fastener, it is impossible to determine the exact parameters - length, thickness, diameter. As a result, the door will either close poorly or be difficult to open. In addition, the inserted nail or bushing will not be able to wear out due to its physical properties, but the limiter rod itself will wear out very quickly. If you allow such a breakdown, you may end up with more expensive repairs. Many car owners, from their own experience, advise not to resort to this option, since the nail quickly erases the retainer guide.
Buying a door stop. This method is chosen by almost all drivers who encounter a similar problem. Many people purchase an element for a VAZ 2110 car and use it as a donor to restore the door fixation - this is a very big mistake. For example, a limiter for a VAZ 2110 costs about 170 rubles. To repair two doors, you will need to spend 340 rubles. It is much more profitable to buy a repair kit, the cost of which does not exceed 500 rubles. The savings of 160 rubles are questionable. Another reason not to use a limiter from another machine as a donor is that upgrading the element to a special design will take a lot of time. In addition, many drivers remain dissatisfied with the result after completing the work. Let's take again a repair kit that is already designed for a specific model. A non-original element may not last long, and another negative consequence is the erasure of the limiter rod - this leads to additional costs.
How to carry out repairs. Let's look at how to fix a problem using a Lada Vesta as an example. The first step is to remove the door stop. To do this, remove the casing and unscrew the fasteners. After removing the element, you need to evaluate its condition. If there is no external damage or defects on it, you can remove the latches using a screwdriver. After this, we dismantle the plug - inside this element there is a spring and a “fungus”. The last element may wear out after just a year of operation. You can restore the operation of the device if you use a ball from a bearing instead of a “fungus”. After this, it is necessary to lubricate the structure completely, ordinary “Litol” will do for this, and install it in place.
Bottom line. Worn door stops are a problem that every driver faces. Experts do not recommend using parts from other models that are less expensive as donors. It is much easier to buy a repair kit or carry out the repair yourself.