All cars use a starter to spin the crankshaft when starting the engine. The power of this device allows the crankshaft to overcome compression in the cylinders and frictional forces. If the starter does not turn, then the engine cannot start, as a result, the car stands still. For a motorist, the worst situation occurs when, when turning the key, he hears clicking sounds in the power plant or silence.
By the “silence” of the engine it is impossible to determine what exactly is not working. It’s good if it’s a starter, since repairing or replacing it won’t be as expensive as repairing a VAZ 2110 engine. There can be many problems with this element; this article contains the main faults and ways to solve them. If you want to repair or replace it yourself, then this will require a connection diagram, since the starter is an electrical device.
Timing belt broke
VAZ 2110 does not start, the starter turns - perhaps the reason lies in a broken timing belt?
The undoubted advantages of a belt drive over a chain drive are its simple design, low weight and low noise. However, it is not without its drawbacks, the main one of which is the relatively short resource of the timing belt.
Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.
New timing belt VAZ 2110
Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.
The consequences of a broken timing belt depend entirely on the design of the power unit. To imagine what will happen at this moment, you need to turn to the mechanics of the internal combustion engine.
In a running engine, the pistons continuously move from one dead center to another. During the intake stroke, the piston moves down and the intake valve opens; during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve opens and the piston moves up. At the moment when the piston is at top dead center, all valves must be closed. If the timing belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating and the valves stop in one position. At the same time, the crankshaft continues to rotate by inertia, and the pistons rush towards the open valves.
Timing belt VAZ 2110 OPEN
In some engines, for example, the 8-valve VAZ-2111, the pistons have special recesses to avoid contact with the valves in the event of a break. In this case, there will be no consequences, except that the car will not be able to get to the garage or workshop under its own power.
What to do if the starter clicks but does not turn
When the ignition switch is turned on, the starter does not turn.
Why does the starter not respond to turning the ignition key? It also happens that you turn the key in the ignition, the starter clicks, and in response there is silence. Agree, the situation is very unpleasant, but quite common. There are many reasons for its occurrence, but in this article we will focus on one associated with the starter, or more precisely with one of its elements - the solenoid relay (hereinafter referred to as VR).
The nature of the malfunction described here is quite specific. An attempt to start the car's power unit is accompanied by VR clicks, but the starter armature does not turn. Motorists who do not have sufficient practical experience rush to blame all the “sins” on the VR, without thinking that in a situation where the retractor clicks, the starter does not turn, and the start does not occur, any of the elements of the electrical supply system involved in the process may be to blame .
So why doesn't the starter turn?
The chain of elements, the performance of which directly affects the starting of a car engine, consists of:
- Rechargeable battery.
- Starter relay.
- Ignition switch.
- Starter.
- Solenoid relay.
To avoid errors in the process of diagnosing a malfunction, it is recommended to start searching for defects by checking the functioning of the battery. It includes two main points:
- Checking the battery charge, monitoring the complete contact of the battery terminals with the wire tips, as well as inspecting them (the wires) for the absence of fractures (breaks).
- Lack of contact between the power unit and the car body due to insufficient tightening of the connection, exposure to corrosion processes, etc.
So, let's try to figure out the situation when the retractor clicks, but the starter does not turn. Firstly, the situation is far from critical, since at least some “signs of life” are given by the launch system. And, secondly, before dismantling the starter, which in itself is not so simple and quick, try to eliminate some defects that can negatively affect the engine starting process:
- Damage to the wires of the electrical supply system.
- Insufficient contact at the junctions of wires with system elements.
- Malfunction of the ignition switch.
- Loosening of the BP fastening to the starter housing.
Once you have determined that the starter itself is the culprit of the problem, and have removed it from the engine compartment, you need to establish the degree of performance of it and the VR. This is done like this:
- Take a battery whose serviceability is not in doubt, and connect its “-” terminal to the starter housing, and the “+” terminal to the pin located after the BP.
- The operation of the starter will be evidence of a malfunction of the VR, and “silence” will be an invitation for you to look for the cause inside this unit.
Let's consider the possible causes of a starter malfunction, the symptoms of which we defined as “the retractor clicks, the starter does not turn, but clicks”:
- Unacceptable degree of wear of starter structural elements: bushings, brushes.
- Burnout, break in the power wire between the VR and the starter winding.
- Mechanical deformation (complete destruction) of the overrunning clutch drive fork.
- Short circuit between the turns of the armature winding.
- Starter winding broken.
Attention! If an attempt to unsuccessfully start the engine is accompanied by just one click, the reason lies in the lack of “ground” in the power unit housing, lack of contact on the BP terminals or its loose fastening
Video - Do-it-yourself repair of the starter retractor relay
To summarize the above, we note several key points:
- The occurrence of problems with starting the vehicle's power unit requires immediate elimination in order to avoid a situation in which operation of the vehicle will be impossible.
- The problem mentioned in the title of the article can be solved independently, which will significantly save your money and enrich you with invaluable practical repair experience.
No contact
The starter starts with difficulty, before clicking. At first you are only slightly alarmed, but the situation repeats itself again and again: first it clicks, and only then the engine turns.
Have you checked your contacts lately? You need to start with the battery, maybe you are wrong to blame the starter, and the reason is oxidation of the terminals. Have you cleaned them and the starter clicks again? You need to check how your VAZ has ground contact with the body, and then the contacts of the starter itself, because they are also prone to oxidation.
Another test method: ask someone to turn the ignition key, while you yourself knock on the relay, using only a hard object. If it starts, it means that the closing contacts (nickels) are stuck, and it is easier to change the relay than to disassemble and repair it.
We close the starter in the French special cases
Lada Priora Sedan Logbook Preparing for winter. Starter
Access to the starter is always open from under the bottom - you just need to remove the crankcase protection. An example is in the photo below.
Under the bottom of Renault Megane 2
It is difficult to reach the starter from the engine compartment. In the best case, it is closed by a filter (VAZ), in the worst case, by a battery. You can remove the filter, but what about the battery?
Starter installation location (circle)
Everything is done so that the starter can be changed, repaired, but not short-circuited.
What does terminal S look like?
On Renault cars, the terminal looks like a threaded outlet. The nut screwed onto it is “white”, although it itself is made of copper (see photo).
Starter Renault Logan, phase 1
We have already talked about the VAZ - they use a plug. If you remove it, you can see the “petal”.
The starting method using a screwdriver is not the best. The problem is limited access.
50 Amps
We are going to short-circuit the starter with a screwdriver, but at the connection points where the current will flow, it may “stick”. In this case, without unnecessary panic, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
To remove the minus terminal, you need a 10mm open-end wrench. Keep it with you.
How to quickly close the starter with a screwdriver or other means
What to do if the screen on your phone is cracked. What to do if your laptop screen is broken
Many motorists have to deal with problems related to the vehicle starter at least once in their lives. The starter stubbornly refuses to work as before, although it itself is not damaged (the solenoid relay becomes the problem). We will look at what to do in this case and how to revive the starter in our article. There is Murphy’s law, known to all people on earth, as it is also popularly called the law of meanness. The car breaks down at the most inopportune moment, when you urgently need to go somewhere, and time is running out. In this case, there is nothing left to do but close the starter contacts in order to revive this important element of the car.
Where is he located
This question is asked by those who have just become the proud owner of a vehicle. In most cases, people think about its location under the hood when it starts acting up, or by those who like to tinker with the car themselves in the garage.
Regardless of the type of engine and its location under the hood, manual or automatic transmission, the starter is located in close proximity to the box, partially bolted to it.
Remember, when we looked at the principle of operation of the clutch, such a part as the “flywheel” was mentioned. It is connected to the crankshaft of the engine, and through it and the clutch, torque is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox. It is shaped like a large gear and is connected to the starter with its teeth. Therefore, you can always find it near the gearbox, because through the Bendix mechanism (we’ll talk about this “beast” later) rotation is transmitted to the flywheel gear, and from it to the engine crankshaft.
Before talking about the principles of operation, let's look at what it consists of.
We are trying to make a friend without his atrium
TIP - before closing the starter, it is advisable to inspect it and make a diagnosis.
Initially, it would be good to try to find out the reasons for the failure of the starter - what if you are lucky and the problems associated with its failure can be eliminated yourself.
The most common breakdowns are the following:
- Starter relay failure.
- The solenoid relay does not operate fully.
- Severe wear on the teeth of the Bendix gear, namely, the gear rotates, but does not engage with the teeth of the engine flywheel ring.
- The stator winding in the starter burned out.
So, let’s start the “heart” of the car.
Method 1, or how to start a car from a push, or “from a pusher”?
Everything is quite simple, but at the same time very reliable. Its essence is that the driver needs to find at least a couple of people, let them be, for example, neighbors in a garage cooperative who sympathize with him. And they don’t need to be of strong build, the main thing here is the number of participants: the more, the better. The entire team (company) rests their hands on the trunk, rear pillars, etc., and begins to push the car, accelerating it. The driver, in turn, sitting behind the wheel, already with the ignition on and, better yet, with third gear engaged, as well as with the clutch depressed, after waiting for the car to accelerate, the clutch is already released. After this, the engine “sneezes” and starts. The higher the acceleration speed, the faster the engine will start.
With this method, it is important to remember that after starting the engine, the car will begin to accelerate and you must immediately depress the clutch and turn off the gear, but, of course, do not turn off the engine!
In addition, do not forget to press the brake so as not to hit the car pulling you in the rear and put your car on the handbrake, and after that you can go and unhook the cable.
Method three, or we start the engine by simply closing the starter.
In addition to the above options, the engine can be started without “violent” methods. Just need to have at least a little idea of how to close the starter directly?
Often, drivers close the starter using everything that is at hand in the car. This could be a screwdriver, a spatula, a wrench, etc.
TIP - a screwdriver will be effective if the starter relay is faulty.
This is easily recognized by the characteristic clicks coming from the engine compartment when starting the engine. This sound tells the driver: “Hey, friend, the relay is on, but the Bendix gear is not able to turn the engine crankshaft.” There is only one way out - you bridge the starter, and with this action you apply voltage to the winding.
In this case, you will need a large screwdriver, but you can use any open-end wrench. Any of these items must close the terminals of the solenoid relay and that’s it. But, do not forget, before closing the starter directly, you must:
- The ignition key must be placed in the appropriate position.
- The gear lever must be in neutral.
- The car must be put on the handbrake.
With this method, a screwdriver (wrench) plays the role of a solenoid relay and the engine of your car must start.
Types of starter breakdowns and the reliability of its components
Since the starter is an electromechanical device, all its breakdowns can be divided into two categories:
- mechanical type (wear of rubbing parts, deformation or jamming of one of the starter elements, etc.). Eliminating these breakdowns requires removing the unit from the machine;
- electrical type (problems with battery voltage supply, rupture or short circuit of the stator windings or starter armature, burning of contacts or working surfaces, etc.).
Of course, the easiest thing would be to carry a spare unit with you. But it is quite bulky and massive, and also costs a lot of money. So, for the cheapest starter for a VAZ car you will have to pay at least 3 thousand rubles, and for a foreign car of the same class - 6 thousand rubles.
Moreover, as practice shows, in 90% of cases, starter problems are associated with faulty wiring, brush mechanism, solenoid relay or battery. Eliminating the noted deficiencies will cost much less, although some of them will require a stand.
If we rank the malfunctions of the average passenger car starter, then the frequency of breakdowns of its components and parts decreases in the following order:
- brush commutator;
- front and rear bushings;
- armature shaft;
- planetary mechanism (if any);
- stator winding;
- Bendix with overrunning clutch;
- flywheel crown teeth.
VAZ 2110 won't start, the injector turns the starter
Probably every motorist has encountered a situation in which your car does not start, and there is little pleasure in it, especially if it happens on the road.
To begin with, it is recommended to conduct a general diagnostic of the engine and try to identify the malfunction. In this situation, in order to determine the malfunction of the VAZ 2110 power plant, it is recommended to check all operating systems of the engine, proceeding from general to specific.
The starter turns but the engine does not catch.
The fact that when you turn the key, the engine begins to rotate under the influence of the starter torque is not a bad sign. This indicates, first of all, that the malfunction lies in a malfunction of one of the systems, namely the fuel supply system, air supply system, or ignition system. (Cases of breakdown of the crank and gas distribution mechanisms assemblies are not taken into account, since these breakdowns are extremely rare).
Possible malfunctions of the fuel supply system of the VAZ 2110
One of the major malfunctions of the fuel supply system is: - failure of the fuel pump.
- clogged fuel line
- clogged distributed injection nozzles
To diagnose the performance of the fuel supply pump, it is necessary to remove the hose from the fuel rail and check the pressure in the system. If necessary, the pressure is measured with a special pressure gauge. If there is no pressure in the fuel line, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the fuel pump, as well as the correct operation of the electrical circuit.
Clogged fuel injector nozzles can be checked by removing the fuel rail. A working fuel injector should spray fuel into a vapor state. A faulty or clogged nozzle does not spray, gasoline may not flow at all, or may flow in a stream. Failure of all injection nozzles to pass through may also indicate improper operation of the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit.
Typical malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 ignition system
If the fuel supply and distributed injection systems are fully operational, you should check the serviceability of the vehicle’s ignition system.
In this system, malfunctions in the operation of the following components are possible:
1. Faulty spark plug. As a rule, when 1-2 spark plugs come out, the car will start, but it will be difficult or the engine will start to seize.
2. Breakdown of high-voltage wires; if armored wires are not replaced in a timely manner, they may fail. Accordingly, voltage will not be supplied to the spark plugs.
3. Failure of the ignition module. The electric current converter may fail at the moment the spark is applied; in such a situation, it is necessary to check the voltage at the output.
Possible malfunctions in the timing belt
- the timing belt slips through the pulley teeth by 1-2 positions. Because of this, the position of the valve timing changes and the engine may not start at all. -Slipping of the camshaft pulley, or damage to the shaft. - malfunction or incorrect operation of the crankshaft position sensor. In a situation where it is not possible, from a technical point of view, to identify a malfunction using general diagnostics, it is necessary to carry out general computer diagnostics of the engine with connection to the ECU
Failure of spark plugs
The first thing you should think about after checking the presence of power and the ignition switch is the integrity of the spark plugs. Because even if there is a spark, they may not work correctly. Checking them is quite simple:
- the spark plug is unscrewed from its socket using a special key;
- one of the candlesticks is put on it;
- Next you need to “turn” the starter.
The spark between the central and side electrodes must be blue. If it is red or completely absent, the spark plug must be replaced. This part is a consumable item. According to the regulations, regardless of the recommendations of the manufacturer of the spark plugs themselves, they must be replaced every 10 thousand km.
Replacing the VAZ 2112 starter relay if necessary
Problems with the starter itself
So, we have considered the main external causes and ways to eliminate them. Now let's look at possible problems that may arise in the starter itself. First, let's recall some of its features. On the VAZ “tenth” series, the manufacturer installs a starter with a gearbox. The design also provides for the presence of a planetary reduction gear, which, in turn, consists of gears (ring, internal and central) and a carrier connected to the transmission shaft.
If the starter engages, but a rough noise is heard, this may indicate wear on the gearbox gears. The problem can be resolved quite simply. The gearbox should be disassembled and the satellite gears replaced. One point worth noting. Most often, the needle bearings on which the gears rotate wear out.
When the gearbox wears out, the production of other parts accelerates, and significantly, for example, due to vibration, the liners in which the drive shaft rotates fail much faster than expected.
At this point you need to pay special attention. Over time, the liners can become so loose that the starter does not operate due to a jammed shaft.
In addition, as a result of the resulting vibration, the Bendix gear quickly deteriorates. And it doesn’t just end there. The damaged gear begins to gradually destroy the flywheel teeth. To prevent this, the bushings should be replaced as soon as possible.
If the flywheel crown is worn out sufficiently, this will also bring certain problems to the car owner. In this case, the engine will start, as they say, every other time. The starter works, but you will also hear extraneous noise, indicating a malfunction. Sometimes the ring wears out to such a state that the gear simply cannot fit in and connect with it normally. However, if the flywheel turns even a little, the starter will be able to turn it half a turn. In most cases, this is enough for the car to start.
Wear of the starter brushes is another problem in which this unit will fire every once in a while. By the way, sluggish scrolling also indicates the presence of this problem. When compared with other starter components, it must be emphasized that the brushes here wear out quite quickly. As a result, a moment comes when their length is no longer enough to touch the collector. Because of this, the engine will not spin up.
The starter may also fail to operate due to a short circuit in the rotor winding or its breakage. This malfunction is very dangerous for all electronics. Moreover, a short circuit is quite possible, which can damage the battery. There are even cases where the battery simply exploded. If the starter winding is shorted, you will hear a distinct burning smell in the engine compartment. There is no point in doing repairs here - it is better to just buy a new one. Otherwise, you risk wasting time and money, but repairs in any case do not provide any guarantee of subsequent long-term operation. It is possible that after some time the problem will appear again. Therefore, in this case, it is better not to save, but to immediately replace the starter, because the stingy, as we know, pays twice.
Reasons for difficulty starting a car in cold weather
Novice drivers are interested in the question of why the car does not start in cold weather. There are plenty of reasons: problems with the battery and starter, an increase in lubricant thickness, disruption of the fuel supply in the system, as well as the use of summer grades of diesel fuel in diesel cars.
Battery problems
The battery is the main culprit for problems with starting a car in cold weather, especially if the battery has been actively used for more than 3 years - at this time its power begins to decrease. In addition, particles of rust and dirt accumulate on the battery terminals over time, and oxidation of the terminals and contacts can be caused by temperature fluctuations: when the motor is turned off, the wires have the same temperature as the environment, and at the moment of starting they begin to heat up. This process leads to a gradual breakdown of the integrity of the connections.
Chemical processes inside the battery slow down at sub-zero temperatures: already at -15...-20°C it operates at only 40% of its potential even when fully charged - this is another reason for problems with starting the engine.
Starter malfunction
It is not uncommon for the starter to break down in winter. This unit is subject to critical loads in cold weather due to:
- thickening of lubricants;
- freezing of moving parts of parts due to condensate freezing on them;
- changes in resistance at the contacts.
All this leads to an increase in the current flowing through the armature, which causes incorrect operation of the unit, and sometimes even destruction of the armature, starter brushes, and commutator lamellas.
Thickened motor oil
At subzero temperatures, lubricants tend to become thicker, which increases resistance in rotating and moving mechanisms. This, in turn, increases the load at the starting moment on the battery, which is also cooled, as a result of which the battery discharges faster. Using special winter brands of oil can partially solve the problem.
The coolant also works only in the temperature range specified by the manufacturer; when this indicator decreases, it freezes. At the same time, the starter will continue to rotate, which often causes breakdown of the entire unit and makes it impossible to operate the car. To avoid this, use coolant designed for the appropriate climate conditions.
Bad gasoline or its supply is interrupted
The use of low-quality fuel also becomes a problem. The drops of moisture contained in it, freezing, form ice plugs that prevent the normal flow of the mixture into the combustion chamber. You can prevent trouble by using high-quality fuel or specialized additives.
In cold weather, the operating parameters of fuel pumps deteriorate, which leads to problems in the functioning of injectors and nozzles. Misfire may occur in some or even all cylinders.
The ignition system is misregulated
The main “winter” enemy of the fuel system, which causes its imbalance, is moisture entering the unit in the form of condensate. It freezes at sub-zero ambient temperatures, preventing the flow of the fuel-air mixture.
Spark plugs flooded
In winter, it is necessary to use proven spark plugs; it would be a good idea to change them in the off-season, before the first cold weather begins, and also have a spare set of spark plugs with you. In addition to the general problems that can arise at any time of the year, there is also a typical “winter” problem - the candles are flooded with fuel.
In the cold, the formation of a combustible mixture requires a change in conditions. In frosty air, the concentration of oxygen is increased, and accordingly, more gasoline will be needed, and the command to increase the fuel supply is sent by the electronic control unit to the injector nozzles. A cold starter produces a weak spark, and meanwhile the injectors continue to supply fuel to the system, which fills the spark plugs.
The use of summer diesel fuel in diesel cars
A diesel car may not start in winter due to the use of the wrong fuel. Summer diesel fuel - a special type of diesel fuel - can only be used at an ambient temperature of at least -5°C, because already at -6°C it becomes cloudy and thick, and at -7... -8°C it begins to solidify.
The crystals formed in this process:
- the fuel filter is clogged;
- accumulate in the heat pipe;
- damage the engine and other components of the mechanism.
If it is not possible to use winter fuel, you should definitely use special additives for diesel fuel.
The starter clicks, but does not turn, the reason why we will figure out why the starter does not turn
The starter is a complex electromechanical unit, without which your car is nothing more than a pile of iron. No, of course, you will be able to start the car in some alternative way, but that’s a completely different story. Often the starter, whose task is to start the engine, malfunctions and fails, after which either the starter clicks but does not turn, or the starter does not turn at all, which is even worse.
Reasons why the starter clicks but does not turn
Often the cause is emergency or improper braking, in which the starter, which is engaged with the flywheel, receives a large current. The starter itself is a short-term electrical unit, so if it operates for a long time, it may fail, which in most cases manifests itself in the form when the starter does not turn or the starter clicks but does not turn.
In order to understand why clicks occur and there is no rotation, you need to pay attention to how the starter is designed. The starter contains a so-called traction relay, or as it is also called a retractor relay, which looks like a small cylinder attached to the base of the starter
The starter relay, in turn, is equipped with a pull-in and holding winding. Failure occurs precisely at the moment when a voltage deficiency occurs on the holding winding. The task of the retracting winding is to retract the core, but it returns to its original position because the holding winding cannot hold it. This is exactly what happens when you try to start the car by turning the key in the ignition. And this phenomenon looks to us in the form of clicks, that is, when the starter clicks but does not turn
The starter contains a so-called traction or, as it is also called, retractor relay, which looks like a small cylinder attached to the base of the starter. The starter relay, in turn, is equipped with a pull-in and holding winding. Failure occurs precisely at the moment when a voltage deficiency occurs on the holding winding. The task of the retracting winding is to retract the core, but it returns to its original position because the holding winding cannot hold it. This is exactly what happens when you try to start the car by turning the key in the ignition. And this phenomenon looks to us in the form of clicks, that is, when the starter clicks but does not turn.
As you already know, clicks are produced by the solenoid relay, and there may be several reasons why this happens. Here is a list of the most likely reasons why the starter does not turn, but clicks:
- Rechargeable battery (AB). Most likely, the battery is simply discharged, or is not charged enough, or the terminals have poor contact with the high-voltage wires. Charge the battery and try to start the engine again.
- Poor weight of the body and the engine. In this situation, it is recommended to take another ground wire and try again.
The starter does not turn and one distinct click is heard. In this case, I recommend checking the engine mass, as well as the fastening of the traction relay to the starter housing. The problem may be bad or burnt out contacts on the traction relay. If not, then most likely the breakdown lies in a malfunction of the starter mechanism itself, which cannot be done without completely disassembling or replacing it.
If you are convinced that the reason why the starter clicks but does not turn is the starter itself, here are a few probable reasons why this could happen:
- The power wire connecting the starter winding and the traction relay may burn out.
- Critical wear of starter brushes or bushings.
- Break in the starter winding or short circuit in the armature winding.
- Deformation or destruction of the fork in the Bendix drive.
Let's summarize.
If you notice problems with the starter, do not delay repairs, otherwise at one inopportune moment it will simply stop turning, and according to the “law of meanness” this will happen somewhere far from home or when you are in a hurry... The problem is when the starter clicks but does not turn you can decide on your own. There are an abundance of all kinds of manuals on the Internet for repairing and replacing the starter with your own hands. However, if you are not sure, it is better to trust the professionals, so you can save your time, nerves, and sometimes money.
Bendix and planetary gearbox
By design, the rotor of the electric motor is separated from, consisting of a sun gear, which has the shape of a circle with teeth inside. There are also three more small gears that connect to the internal teeth, as well as the electric motor pulley. However, devices with this design have been installed on cars with VAZ 2110 injectors not so long ago.
Bendix starter mechanism
Older types of mechanisms are made without a planetary element and are characterized by a lower number of revolutions. This parameter can be regarded as the main drawback, although they are more reliable by design.
Bendix is a device consisting of two parts - an overrunning clutch, as well as a gear, which is located directly on it. It should be noted that the overrunning clutch is directly connected to the starter pulley thanks to splines installed in a spiral. The mechanism moves along these slots when the driver tries to start the engine.
If the starter does not click and does not work or works slowly even when hot, the problem may lie in the bendix. In addition, there is another fork on the device, consisting of two metal plates mounted directly on the overrunning clutch. This fork is attached to two opposite points of the element. One of the edges of the plates is made in the form of a rectangle. When the driver is driving, the retractor relay acts on these plates. Next, the gear moves along the pulley using splines until the element engages with the flywheel rim.
The starter clicks but does not turn VAZ 2112
The starter clicks but does not turn VAZ 2112
In a situation where the starter on a VAZ 2112 does not turn, there may be several reasons that led to its malfunction.
The battery is discharged, which is often observed after parking the car on weekends when it is not being used.
Determination of the battery leakage current at rest. After standing for a long time, the starter may not turn, because the entire battery charge was wasted due to leaks.
Here, most likely the culprit is a large current leak in the electrical system, if this is not due to forgotten dimensions. open doors or trunk lid when the battery is drained by a real current consumer. In such cases, you should charge the battery and simultaneously check the amount of charging current supplied by the generator.
When the starter clicks but does not turn the VAZ 2112, there may also be several reasons, which can initially be determined by ear by external signs.
So, if when you turn the ignition key to the “start” position, you hear frequent clicks from the starter, then again the culprit is a discharged battery, poor contact at its terminals, or a bad ground on the starter.
If only one but distinct click is heard, then in this situation the power contacts of the starter solenoid relay are most likely burnt out. which are not able to conduct all suitable voltages. The next reason why the starter on a VAZ 2112 does not turn when the starter clicks once may be a malfunction of the starter electric motor itself or its drive.
In a situation where the starter clicks but does not turn the VAZ 2112 with a single click, it is necessary to remove the starter from the car and carry out a complete troubleshooting. A complete inspection of the starter will allow you to determine why the starter on the VAZ 2112 does not turn and which of its elements require replacement.
So, when troubleshooting the starter solenoid relay, you need to check its contacts and their condition, which can be done indirectly if the relay is rolled and cannot be disassembled. To do this, without removing the starter from the car, you can check with a device how many volts are coming to the power terminal of the relay (direct plus wire from the battery) and how much is transferred to the second bolt, where the output of the starter motor winding is connected. In the case when the same amount of volts is “transferred” as comes from the battery, then the contacts are working properly and the fault needs to be looked for further to find the reason why the starter does not turn on the VAZ 2112. If, say, 12.7 V comes in, but only 4-5 V is transferred, then the contacts are burnt and require replacement, and if the solenoid relay is not removable, it requires replacement.
However, before making a final conclusion about the malfunction of the retractor relay, it is necessary to check the condition of the starter drive, which can be done when the starter is removed from the car.
Photos of various solenoid relays (shown by arrows) of starters of various modifications.
In the drive, there may be a breakdown of the plug connected to the relay core and this may cause insufficient contact, since the core cannot be fully retracted into the relay winding and reliably connect the power contacts.
After inspecting the drive and the solenoid relay, it is necessary to make a complete inspection of the electric motor, which may contain the following malfunctions. Extreme wear of the brushes or commutator plates on the starter armature, inter-turn short circuit of the windings or their breakage, and brush springs may also require replacement, which no longer provide their guaranteed pressure to the lamellas of the armature commutator.
The inspection will not be complete if you do not check the condition of the gears and their teeth in the gearbox, the condition of the overrunning freewheel, as well as the condition of the cermet bushings. in which the starter armature rotates. Often a crack appears on the outer gear ring of the gearbox. which leads to a malfunction of the starter and serves as a failure in its operation. A set of reduction gears is commercially available and replacing it does not require any special knowledge or skills.
From the review you will learn what to do in case of a classic problem, when everything is fine in a VAZ 2111 car, but the starter refuses to work.
Starter brushes VAZ 2110
Everything you need to know about the VAZ 2110 starter brushes, from checking their functionality to replacing them with new ones.
The starter turns poorly on a VAZ 2110
The article discusses the main steps that need to be taken if the starter on the BA 2110 begins to turn poorly.
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Rotor winding faults
The simplest way to check the serviceability of the starter is to apply current from the battery directly to the power contact, bypassing the traction relay. This will allow you to find out how the electric motor behaves and whether it shows any signs of life.
But before checking the functionality of the battery starter, try to use only thick copper stranded wires with good insulation.
If the rotor does not rotate, you will have to check it too. The following malfunctions most often occur:
The easiest way to make repairs is to install a new rotor. Rewinding the winding is problematic, since it is difficult to find a suitable wire.
