Why doesn't the driver's door open on the Lada Priora?


Currently, many car enthusiasts are asking the question: why doesn’t the driver’s door open (despite efforts) on a new or not so Priora? It is worth noting in this regard that all problems mainly arise from the fault of the central locking. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the owners simply do not find the necessary information.

The main signs of a malfunction in the locking system installed by the manufacturer on Priora are as follows:

  • the door does not close;
  • does not open;
  • unlocks on its own.

Moreover, car enthusiasts often complain that it is impossible to open the lock with a key, from a key fob or from the inside.

In reality, in about 90 cases out of a hundred, the culprit of the malfunction is the lock installed directly inside the driver's door.

Device

The weakest point of the Priora locking system is the microswitch. The electrical package itself, used on the model in question, is a rather complex device. It is his responsibility to receive the owner’s command to unlock or lock the door. Having received a certain signal, it activates certain electrical networks that supply the drive. In this case, the electrical package can perceive orders in two ways at once:

  • from the key fob;
  • from microswitch.

Operating principle of the central lock

The system of this device consists of the following elements:

  • main electronic control unit;
  • push-button door switches;
  • door electronic control devices;
  • window lift drives;
  • limit switches for closing windows and doors. When closing, the central locking sends signals here to prevent arming of a car with open windows. Therefore, often failures when closing doors are associated with violations of the window control.

For example, the domestic one installs a central locking system on all versions of the Kalina model, which works with a remote control. Inside the cabin, on the driver's door handle there is a central locking button. It can be controlled from the driver's seat.

In addition, the ignition key can be used as a remote control. One press will open the driver's door, two will open the other locks. To lock the car, you need to hold the button once for a long time.

Trunk control is not available on all models. In addition, there is also a rear door locking feature designed to protect children.

The door does not open in cold weather


Most often this happens after washing a car or driving in the rain, when dampness gives way to negative temperatures. Usually the larva freezes completely in the lock. Sometimes the lubricant in the drive or rod also hardens.

Knowledgeable car owners advise warming up the constipation (for example, with a hairdryer) and then lubricating it with WD-40. Moreover, the procedure must be repeated after each significant wetness of the car.

In addition, it will also help:

  • turning on autostart with constant heating of the interior;
  • disassembling the door and adjusting the lock components;
  • use any silicone-based lubricant.

Repair of electric central locking

Central locking systems with solenoids are factory installed on domestic cars. Such systems begin to malfunction after a year or two, for example, the passenger door does not close from the central lock, or the central lock closes and opens immediately. The reason for this is the sensitivity of the system to humidity and temperature changes. The solenoids begin to “stick,” which subsequently leads to their complete failure. The way out of the situation is to disassemble each of them, clean and apply new lubricant. It is better to immediately replace the solenoids with drives with motors.

If the central locking does not close the rear doors, or other incomplete operation is noted, the reasons can be sought in the following:

  • broken contact in the supply circuit;
  • relay problems;
  • poor contact on the motor/solenoid;
  • wear of gears or other moving elements of the activator;
  • burnt motor/coil winding.

In this case, it is optimal to start repairs by testing the power supply to the drive that does not operate. When you turn on the “close” mode on the remote control, power should flow to the first wire - this moment is recorded with a multimeter. When you try to open the central locking system, the voltage disappears on this wire and appears on another. If the test results are exactly like this, then the problem is in the drive itself, which is easier to replace with a new one, since not every malfunction can be eliminated, especially on your own.

If the problem is in the wiring, you will have to test the entire circuit up to the activator separately. The most common problem is a break in the wire running between the door and the body. Despite its placement in additional corrugated insulation, a break or break in this place is commonplace. Therefore, checking the wiring can be started from here, but if after restoring the wiring the power is not restored, the problem may lie in the relay or the wiring after it. Possible problems with central locking are described in the video:

If the door does not open with the key fob

First of all, you should make sure that the button itself is working. The battery often runs out.

Further, if the indication goes off after using the key fob, then most likely the wires leading to the lock installed directly in the door have simply frayed.

This, in particular, is also indicated by non-working window regulators.

In such a situation, you will have to disassemble the door (that is, remove the trim from it) and check the integrity of the chains. It will also be necessary to inspect the fuses - they usually blow out from the slightest overload, and their damage leads to failure of the locking system.

Another common factor is a poorly charged battery, because it is from it that all systems installed on the car are powered. In cold weather, as you know, the battery discharges the most. Moreover, if the battery is disconnected for a while, then the immobilizer often starts to work incorrectly.

Sometimes mechanical problems can interfere with opening, but in this case the door cannot be unlocked with anything.

Electronics

In addition to the reasons described above, the problem may lie in small electronics. The check should begin with the key fob. First of all, the battery and the condition of the buttons are checked. Perhaps they stick and do not work at the right time. If the board itself is faulty, the key fob simply will not respond to external stimuli. The LED on its body will not light up. It's good if you have a spare key fob. Otherwise, you will have to change the alarm, or find exactly the same key fob.

Next, the alarm control unit is checked. The verification method is usually indicated in the instructions. Lastly, they check the microboard located on the central locking drive motor. At the same time, they look at the condition of the drive itself. All failed parts are replaced. The most difficult thing is with the control unit. It is practically beyond repair. Therefore, it is much easier to install a new alarm. Sometimes the key fob loses synchronization with the unit, then it will have to be reprogrammed.

What to do if it doesn’t unlock from the inside


Experts say that, most likely, such a nuisance occurs due to a slipped rod. The thing is that at the end of the cable that unlocks the lock, there is a white plastic lock. This part is very unreliable and often breaks or simply falls off. The problem is easy to fix - just remove the casing and replace the damaged element or put the cable on the rod.

VAZ 2170 | Removing, installing and adjusting doors

Removing, installing and adjusting doors
Car doors have significant weight, so it would be wise to enlist the help of an assistant.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1. Remove the interior trim panel and the film insulating screen (see Section Removing and installing interior door trim panels). Disconnect the contact connectors and push the electrical wiring through the technological holes in the door frame, thereby ensuring the possibility of free dismantling of the latter. 2. Open the door all the way and support it with a jack or wooden blocks. Note: To avoid damage to the paintwork, place a layer of rags between the jack head and the edge of the door.

3. Remove the bolt securing the door opening limiter.

4. Trace the hinge strips with a marker, marking their position on the door.

5. Remove the mounting bolts and, with the help of an assistant, carefully remove the door assembly from the car. Installation is in the reverse order.

1. The correct position of the door in the body opening is critical from the point of view of the proper functioning of the door assembly. First of all, you should evaluate the amount of play of the axial pins of the door hinges. Open the door completely and move it up and down. If the door play exceeds 1.6 mm, the hinges should be replaced. 2. To adjust the door position in the vertical direction, loosen the hinge bolts on the car body (access to some bolts is limited, so a specially shaped wrench may be needed). The door can be considered installed correctly when, in the closed position, its upper edge is parallel to the cut of the car roof, and the lower edge is parallel to the threshold line 3. The door is aligned longitudinally by loosening the bolts securing the hinge strips to the door frame; again, a special key may be needed. The front edge (back near the rear door) of the door should be flush with the surface of the wing. 4. Proper operation of the locking mechanism can be achieved by adjusting the position of the lock striker in the vertical direction. To estimate the amount of displacement, trace the striker base plate with a marker. Loosen the fasteners and make the necessary adjustments - the latch should engage with the central part of the firing pin.

5. Finally, adjust the position of the striker in the horizontal direction - the closed door should be flush with the surface of the rear fender pillar/panel and lock properly.

How to remove the rear trim on a Priora

If the car has a full power package (front and rear electric windows), the procedure is practically no different from dismantling the front panels. If manual window drives are installed on the rear door trims, proceed according to the following scheme:

  1. Prepare a thin flat-head screwdriver. Use it to pry the handle lock and press it away from the round socket (it is located right next to the casing).

Important! Gently apply force with a screwdriver to the plastic elements. They “don’t like” strong pressure.

  1. Move the latch so that it comes out of the socket. Take it off.
  2. Pull the window handle and the base itself out of the mechanism shaft.
  3. Unscrew the screw securing the door opening housing with a Phillips screwdriver.
  4. Slowly pry up and remove the panel.
  5. Using a Torx T20 bit, unscrew the inner panel handle. We remove it from the latches.
  6. We unscrew the cap of the locking mechanism by hand.

The casing is freed from attachments, you can begin to dismantle it from the plastic clips. The procedure is the same as for the front door, except there are no screws at the bottom of the trim.

Notes on implementation of schemes

Let us immediately note: if there are no window lifters, the second diagram will not contain parts K2/K3. Then you only need to cut one wire. Sometimes only the rear windows are missing. This means that relay K3 is excluded. And the diodes connected in parallel with the winding can be absolutely anything.

Now we list the requirements for an element called “relay”:

It is the last requirement that is often violated.

In order for “scheme 2” to work, it is necessary not only to assemble it, but also to program the main unit: you need to enable the “2-step unlocking” option. And be that as it may, control impulses cannot be made too long. Use values ​​of 0.7-1.1 seconds.

Power cables (cord X1-6) can only be connected using twists.

The cross-sectional area of ​​the wire must be sufficient to withstand a current of “10 Amps” (this does not apply to signal circuits). A fuse protecting the power circuits must be installed. And of course, before installation, remove the negative terminal of the battery.

Open the Lada Priora. Price

Finding yourself in a hopeless situation, when access to the car is blocked by a locked door, and the key is left in the car along with a spare pair, only one quick solution comes to mind - break out the window. However, this is not so easy to do, and possible damage and inserting a new one will be expensive. You should not fall into despair and resort to such drastic measures. This is not the only solution to how to open the Lada Priora.

Contact a professional company

. Our price for opening the door of a Priora is low, the exit is carried out promptly

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Our technicians have all the necessary equipment in their arsenal that will allow them to perform auto opening procedures efficiently and without damage
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Before you open the Priora yourself, think about the possible consequences and cost of restoration work. It is best to trust the specialists. We provide our services to residents of Moscow and the region around the clock.

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