Instructions for replacing the alternator belt on a LADA Kalina car

Author: Victor

When operating the machine, the alternator drive belt wears out quickly. It is necessary to constantly monitor its condition, since the functioning of the entire car depends on the proper operation of this mechanism. The procedure for replacing the alternator belt on Kalina is not a labor-intensive operation and can be done with your own hands.

[Hide]

When to change?

VAZ Lada Kalina vehicles use a belt drive for auxiliary units. On cars with air conditioning, the service life of such a belt is no more than 30 thousand km. On simple versions of cars, the strap can last longer, but most owners try to change it after the same 30 thousand kilometers traveled. For various reasons, the belt may fail earlier, so it must be checked periodically during vehicle operation. There should be no cracks on the working track, and delamination on the outer part of the belt is unacceptable. If such defects are present, we immediately change the strap. Another signal to replace this element is a whistle or other noise when the unit is operating.

The process of replacing the belt on a Kalina with air conditioning (sixteen valves) is presented in a video from the user Alexander.

Determination of malfunction and replacement time

Determining a faulty alternator belt is quite simple. Let's look at the main indicators:

• Whistle in under engine space. It appears when you increase the speed of the gas pedal, and the current in the bot network increases.
• Tightening the belt had no effect and the whistle remained.
• Cracks or elasticity in the belt.

  Bad alternator belt, bad - teeth torn (torn off)

• Frame deformation, eversion.

  The crack on the alternator belt is clearly visible

All these malfunctions indicate that it is time to replace the alternator belt on Kalina. Otherwise, it may break at the most inopportune moment.

Torn belt on one of the Kalinas

Belt and roller selection

Several types of belts are used on Lada Kalina cars.

The type of element depends on the engine model and its equipment:

1. The motor version without air conditioning and tensioner has a belt length of 823 mm. Gates (number 6PK823) is standardly used, but such a part is not supplied as spare parts. To replace it, a slightly different strap is used - Gates 6PK823SF.
2. The version of the unit with a belt tensioner, but without air conditioning is 882-884 mm. Standard part manufactured by Gates (article 6PK882). In addition to it, straps are often used - Finwhale BP6883, Dayco 6PK888 or the cheapest Balakovo belt BRT882.
3. Engine with air conditioning and belt tensioner (motor 11183) - 1018 mm. Standard element manufactured by Gates (number 6PK1018). Alternative options are Dayco 6PK1018 or Continental 6PK1015.
4. The 21127 16-valve engine with air conditioning and tensioner uses a 995 mm belt. The Gates part (6PK995) is supplied from the factory, and it is also used as a spare.

Sometimes when replacing a belt it becomes necessary to install a new tensioner. It is the same for all motors, its article number is 2123–1041056.

Adjustment methods

Currently, there are three main methods of tensioning the alternator belt in cars:

1. Using a special arc-shaped strip. In this case, the generator has two mounting points. One of them is an axis around which it can move within small limits. The other is the nut on the adjustment bar. If you release it, you can move the pulley to the required distance. This method is now considered obsolete. It is mainly used on VAZ classics.
2. The generator is moved by rotating the adjusting bolt. This system has become widespread in cars of the tenth family.
3. Using a tensioner. This is a special movable roller that rests on the belt between the generator and crankshaft pulleys. It is equipped with a screw mechanism. By rotating it, you can adjust the pressing force. This is exactly the kind of alternator belt tensioner on the Lada Kalina.

How to change it yourself?

The complexity of replacing the alternator belt on Kalina does not depend on the number of valves or additional units on the engine.

Replacement on 8 valve engines without tensioner

Replacing the belt on such an engine is the simplest; the only tools you need are a 13 mm wrench and a short flat-blade screwdriver. Since the tension in such a drive scheme is quite strong, when changing it is necessary to use only a Gates 6PK823SF or Dayco 825 six-V belt with the additional marking POLY-V. The remaining straps are too rigid, quickly collapse and damage the bearing on the generator shaft.

Stages of work

To complete the task you need to do the following:

1. Unscrew the lower mounting bolt of the generator 2-3 turns.
2. Unscrew the nut of the upper fastening, use a screwdriver to push out the bolt and remove it completely.
3. Lower the generator down. The eye of the mechanism must pass through the gap between the radiator and the TV body.
4. Remove the old belt and replace it with a new one. If the strap does not fit easily onto the pulleys, you can carefully tighten it using a screwdriver.
5. Raise the generator up, ensuring the belt is tensioned.
6. Insert the upper mounting point bolt and tighten the nut.
7. Tighten the lower mounting point bolt.
8. Check the operation of the belt.

The repair process on such an engine is clearly shown in the video filmed by the author Ilgiz Magafurov.

Replacement on 8 valve engines with tensioner

Here, the procedure for installing a new alternator belt is very different from that presented above.

Required Tools

To replace the alternator belt yourself, you will need at least the following tools:

• regular or box wrench for 13, 17 and 19 mm nuts;
• a head with a ratchet for 8 mm nuts; if it is not available, an open-end or regular wrench of the same size will do;
• a screwdriver with a thin flat blade;
• thin needle;
• rags;
• white spirit or gasoline, approximately 0.5 liters;
• container and brush for washing;
• CV joint bearing lubricant.

Stages of work

To adjust the degree of belt tension on Kalina engines, a mechanical tensioner is used, in contrast to the timing drive, which uses a hydraulic tensioner. When changing an element, it is recommended to carry out preventive maintenance of the roller by adding fresh lubricant.

To complete the work you need to do the following:

1. Loosen the roller bolt. The thread on it is reversed.
2. Use a screwdriver to pry up the plastic plug on the roller and carefully remove it.
3. Unscrew the fixing nut on the tensioner rod a few turns.
4. Loosen the belt tension by rotating the rod nut clockwise. The nut must be unscrewed until the rod begins to move freely in the seat.
5. Unscrew the side bolt securing the rod end, located next to the tension roller.
6. Remove the tensioner and set it aside.
7. Proceed to dismantle the strap. The procedure must begin with the generator pulley, while overcoming the slight resistance of the belt.
8. Remove the element from the crankshaft pulley and remove it completely.
9. Unscrew the roller bolt and remove it.
10. Using a needle, carefully pry up and remove the protective caps on the bearing. Wash the bearing with white spirit or gasoline.
11. Refill with fresh grease and install protective rubber caps.
12. Assemble all the parts and mount the roller in place. When assembling, you must remember that the bushing is in the bearing on the side of the bracket.
13. Change the belt by installing it in the reverse order - from the crankshaft pulley to the generator pulley.
14. Install the tensioner and begin tightening the belt by turning the nut counterclockwise. The nut must be tightened until the resistance increases. A well-tensioned strap should be slightly pressed when pressed by hand.
15. Tighten the nut securing the tensioner rod.
16. Check the operation of the mechanism; if a whistle occurs, tighten the strap.

Loosening the 17mm left nut

Removing the cover on the roller

Disassembled tension roller

Bearing with caps removed

Washed roller

Reassembling the unit

Belt tension

Tightening the control nut

Replacement on 16 valve engines

The difficulty of replacing the alternator drive belt on such Kalinas lies in the need to remove the front engine mount.

Required Tools

• head for hexagonal sprockets size 11 mm or TORX E14;
• two jacks;
• 17 mm socket or wrench;
• 8 mm ratchet head.

Replacement process

During the work process you need to perform the following actions:

1. Raise the car on a jack and remove the right wheel, as well as the protective wheel arch liner and the support boot.
2. Install a safety support under the bottom of the machine.
3. Remove the protective shield under the engine.
4. Raise the engine under the crankcase with a jack. A wooden stand must be placed between the lifting part of the jack and the engine oil sump.
5. Remove two TORX E14 bolts securing the power unit support to the bracket. If the screws are tight, you need to vary the position of the motor with a jack, achieving easy rotation.
6. Unscrew the three TORX E14 bolts securing the support to the side members of the car body.
7. To loosen the belt tension, to do this you need to unscrew the fixing nut.
8. Rotate the nut 8 mm clockwise until the belt is completely loosened. Then you need to remove the strap and thread a new element through the place where the support was removed.
9. If necessary, you can replace the grease in the tension roller. The scheme is completely identical to that described above.
10. Tension the belt by turning the nut 8 mm counterclockwise. The tension should be controlled by hand - the element should bend when pressed.
11. Secure the tension with a 19 mm nut.
12. Install all removed parts in reverse order.
13. Start the engine and check the operation of the drive. To do this, you need to load the belt as much as possible - turn on all electricity consumers and the air conditioner.
14. If a whistle occurs during operation, you must tighten the strap. To do this, with the engine running, you need to loosen the lock and carefully tighten the tensioner rod until the whistle disappears.
15. Tighten the lock nut.
16. If a whistling noise occurs during operation, the belt must be tightened further.

The engine mount is circled in red.

Loosening the tensioner

Arch locker and support boot

The engine mount is highlighted with a red oval.

Location of five TORX E14 bolts

Engine mounting location

Replacement on 8 valve engines without tensioner

Replacing the belt on such an engine is the simplest; the only tools you need are a 13 mm wrench and a short flat-blade screwdriver. Since the tension in such a drive scheme is quite strong, when changing it is necessary to use only a Gates 6PK823SF or Dayco 825 six-V belt with the additional marking POLY-V. The remaining straps are too rigid, quickly collapse and damage the bearing on the generator shaft.

New Lada: Fog Light Relay Wiring Diagram -

Replacement cost

The cost of changing a belt on a Lada Kalina car depends on the type of engine, range of units and is:

• for a motor without a tensioner - from 300 rubles;
• engines with a tensioner without air conditioning - from 150 to 350 rubles;
• motors with tensioner and air conditioning - from 220 to 400 rubles;
• for unit 21127 - about 600 rubles.

Replacing the roller will require an additional 250 rubles. The total amount required by the car owner to purchase spare parts, in the maximum version, will not exceed 850 rubles.

Useful video tutorials on the topic

A video with a step-by-step operation will help you analyze in detail all the nuances of replacing and adjusting the tension

How to replace the alternator belt on Lada Kalina

How to tighten a belt

The design of the generator mount for Lada Granta and Kalina 2nd generation differs from the usual one that we saw on Lada Priora or Lada Kalina 1st generation. On new Lada cars with 8 valve engines, AvtoVAZ did not provide for belt tension, so replacing the alternator belt is done differently.

Video “Replacing the belt on Lada Kalina”

The author Kalinin talks about the procedure for replacing the belt on his Kalina with a tensioner.

Do you have any questions? Specialists and readers of the AUTODVIG website will help you ask a question

Was this article helpful?

Thank you for your opinion!

The article was useful. Please share the information with your friends.

Yes (85.71%)

No (14.29%)

X

Please write what is wrong and leave recommendations on the article

Cancel reply

Rate this article: ( 7 votes, average: 4.86 out of 5)

Discuss the article:

Generator belt whistling. What to do?

It is very easy to distinguish the whistling of an alternator belt from other extraneous sounds.

This is an ear-piercing sound that will be noticed not only by the driver and passengers, but also by ordinary passers-by. This sound occurs due to slipping of the inner part of the belt. And there are several reasons for this, including: belt wear, poor quality of the belt material, as well as engine oil, fuel and coolants getting on the pulley or belt. Therefore, you first need to visually inspect the surface of the belt for wear, and only then make a decision about replacing it.

First you need to look at the following factors:

• whether the integrity of the belt is broken;
• what degree of tension does the belt have?
• whether there are traces of foreign liquids on the belt or pulley;
• Is there any displacement of the line where the two pulleys are located.