We change the timing belt on a VAZ-2112 16 valves with our own hands (+ video)

Former flagship of the Russian automobile industry VAZ 2110 with a 1.5 16 valve engine, replacement of the timing belt, rollers and pumps. The recommended replacement interval is from 40 to 60 thousand kilometers. The mileage on this strap is 80 thousand and, as the autopsy showed, if they hadn’t changed it today, then tomorrow it would have been more work for our mechanic. In general, we recommend that all customers check the condition of the belt at least once every 5 thousand kilometers, or once a year. But knowing the quality of our spare parts, more often is better.

Attention! On this engine, when the timing belt drive breaks, almost all the valves bend.

Consequence of exceeding the replacement interval. We look, remember and don’t let it get to that point. A little more and the meeting of the valves with the pistons would have been ensured.

The patient became five millimeters narrower and generally looked very bad. We send him to the honor board.

Replacing the timing belt for a VAZ with a 16 valve engine

We put the car on a flat surface, raise the handbrake and put it in first gear. Remove the decorative engine cover and the protective cover of the timing belt. Using a 19 mm spanner or a wrench, turn the generator pulley until the mark on the camshaft pulley aligns with the “tendril” of the protective casing mounting bracket on its left side. We move to the right and remove the rubber plug in the clutch housing to make sure that the marks on the flywheel match the triangular cutout on the scale, which is located there.

After all the marks match, loosen the tension on the generator drive belt and unscrew the bolt securing the pulley to the crankshaft gear.

We remove the gear and check the alignment of the marks on the oil pump cover and the crankshaft gear. The generator pulley mounting bolt must be installed back in order to subsequently rotate the crankshaft to check the correct valve timing. Next, you need to loosen the bolt securing the tensioner (tension roller) and use a special wrench to turn it clockwise until the timing belt tension is released. Now you can remove the old belt.

We put a new belt on the crankshaft gear, then on the camshaft gear, tension roller and pump. Once again we make sure that the marks match. Let's move on to belt tension.

Attention! Due to inexperience, you may encounter the following problem: when trying to tension, the mark may “run away” from the crankshaft pulley and flywheel. This happens due to the fact that you do not tension the drive belt branch (the one that “enters” the camshaft gear) loosely.

Tension it as much as possible and, while turning the tension roller, guide the belt teeth with your fingers into the teeth of the camshaft pulley so that torque is transmitted to the crankshaft. There is another option - make an allowance of half a tooth - a tooth on the camshaft pulley. After putting on the belt, turn it until the mark coincides with the “tendril” on the bracket, and carefully tighten the loose branch of the belt (from the side of the tension roller and pump) by turning the roller counterclockwise

This happens due to the fact that you do not tension the drive belt branch (the one that “enters” the camshaft gear) loosely. Tension it as much as possible and, while turning the tension roller, guide the belt teeth with your fingers into the teeth of the camshaft pulley so that torque is transmitted to the crankshaft. There is another option - make an allowance of half a tooth - a tooth on the camshaft pulley. After putting the belt on, turn it until the mark coincides with the “tendril” on the bracket, and carefully tighten the loose branch of the belt (from the side of the tension roller and pump) by turning the roller counterclockwise.

How to change it yourself?

Before changing the timing belt yourself, you need to study the diagram of the gas distribution mechanism, stock up on the necessary tools, and also imagine the order of work in the form of a sequence of actions.

Before replacing, study the timing diagram

There are differences between modifications of the VAZ 2112, but the basic algorithm is approximately the same for all modifications. This algorithm can also be used on VAZ cars of other modifications, for example, 2110. It is necessary to have a good manual that explains the progress of work step by step. And if you have at least a little experience in car maintenance and minor repairs, we can calmly carry out timing belt maintenance ourselves and change the necessary parts.

Tools and materials

The set of basic tools is small:

• socket heads for 10, 15 and 17;
• spanner or open-end wrench 17;
• large flat screwdriver;
• key for the tensioner pulley (if power steering is installed on the car).

The materials required are a new timing belt.

Step-by-step instruction

1. The work begins by removing the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the six bolts and remove the gas distribution mechanism cover.
3. The crankshaft sensor chip is disconnected.
4. The crankshaft sensor mount is unscrewed. Then you need to remove the sensor.
5. The sensor hole must be aligned with the part of the pulley where there are no teeth. This is done so that the crankshaft sensor can detect TDC (top dead center). In addition, the area without teeth is used to block the pulley. After alignment, you need to put a 12mm hexagon in the hole of the sensor and fix the pulley.
6. When the pulley is blocked, the generator nut is unscrewed.
7. The belt tension roller bolt is loosened. After this, the belt is removed. Often during this operation the tension and support rollers and the pump are also changed.
8. Installing a new timing belt. There are two ways to correctly install this part. First: put on the belt with the tension roller removed. The tension is adjusted after installing the roller. Second: install the belt by turning the exhaust camshaft pulley using a 17mm wrench.
9. Next, you need to tighten the timing belt using the adjusting bolt. It rotates using a 10 key. Rotation clockwise increases the tension, counter-clockwise weakens it.

Replacing a belt on a car with power steering

If your car has power steering. then the procedure for replacing the timing belt has some differences. Before starting work, it is necessary to remove the power steering reservoir, since it blocks access to the timing belt.

In addition, cars with power steering do not have an adjusting bolt. The belt is tensioned using a tension roller and a special key. If such a key is not available, you can use a homemade device consisting of two nails and a screwdriver. During operation, it is necessary to check the degree of belt tension and, if necessary, tighten it. Finally, you need to tighten the tension roller nut.

Features of labeling

Before tensioning the belt and tightening the bolts, you need to check the position of the marks. If the marks are set incorrectly, this will, at best, manifest itself in a decrease in engine power and traction characteristics. In the worst case, in those engines where valve bending is possible, it can occur even with a fully functional timing belt.

In order to avoid these problems, it is necessary to follow the order of placing labels:

1. After installing the timing belt, but before tensioning it, the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump housing are aligned.
2. Marks are placed on the intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys.
3. The belt is tensioned, the tension roller nut is tightened.
4. The crankshaft rotates two revolutions. If after this check the position of the marks remains the same, you can replace the crankshaft sensor, connect the power connector and replace the timing cover. Replacement of the VAZ 2112 timing belt is completed.

The stages of replacing the timing belt can be seen in the photo below.

Blocking the crankshaft pulley

Placing marks on the crankshaft

Marking valve pulleys

Replacing the timing belt of a VAZ 2112 with a hanging wheel

If you are changing a belt with a wheel hanging out, then while tensioning the belt, install the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Engage first gear. This will also prevent the crankshaft mark from running away. Having ensured that the tension is correct, the car will still have to be raised so that it is possible to rotate the timing drive to check the marks. But there is a way out! Ask a neighbor or assistant to simply depress the clutch pedal.

Checking the timing belt tension

A well-tensioned belt should bend 90 degrees from the force of your fingers. If you overtighten, there will be problems with the tensioner and pump bearings. If you don’t tighten it enough, the belt will either jump (which will disrupt the valve timing) or fall off altogether.

So, the belt is tight. We turn the crankshaft twice to make sure that the marks match. If the marks match, then return the generator pulley to its place, tighten its drive belt and install the protective and decorative elements of the engine back. After 2 - 3 thousand kilometers of the car, check the belt tension and its condition again. The optimal service life of the timing belt before it is replaced again is 40 - 60 thousand kilometers. The frequency of checking its tension is 15 thousand kilometers.

Dear friends, today we will tell you the basics of setting timing marks using the example of a VAZ 16 valve engine. It's no secret that correctly set timing marks are the key to proper engine operation. If the marks are set incorrectly, then normal engine operation is impossible.

It is also important to tension the belt correctly, this greatly affects its durability. So, when do we have to deal with the procedure for setting timing marks? When, according to the regulations, we need to replace the timing belt at the next maintenance, by the way, the rollers are also necessarily changed along with the belt in this case

Diagnostics

The belt must be checked every 20,000 km to prevent it from breaking. The essence of belt diagnostics is to prematurely detect aging and wear of timing components.

When checking, you need to pay attention to the operation of the belt, special attention should be paid to its alignment, that is, it should run exactly in the center of the gears, there should be no creaks or lifts.

Timing belt slipping to the outside

The following diagnostics must be carried out when replacing it. With the belt removed, you need to check the play in the tension and idler rollers, as well as in the coolant pump. If play, squeaks, leaks or snags are noticed in the rollers or pump, they need to be replaced.

Replacing the timing belt Priora 16 valves

Replacing the timing belt on a 16-valve Priora is a little more difficult than on 8-valve engines, however, this procedure is accessible to almost every car enthusiast.

A belt in a car engine is one of the main parts for transmitting torque from one mechanism to another. But it is worth remembering that everything has an expiration date. We will outline the nuances of working and replacing the belt in the article below.

Tools and spare parts

Let's start with the fact that to replace the timing belt on a Priora 16 valves you will have to stock up on a very specific set of tools.

This is definitely a set of hexagons, a set of torx bits, and a set with a small 1/4-inch ratchet will not work, we’ll tell you why later.

In addition, you will need a device for tensioning the roller, but the usual one from 2114 will not work, you need a slightly wider one. If you have enough strength, you can tighten the roller simply by leaning against it with a mounting tool; many people do this.

The fact is that initially the 16-valve 21127 was designed without air conditioning. Everything was simple. The pump is driven by the timing belt, the alternator belt is no longer responsible for anything. In general, it couldn’t be simpler.

Crankshaft and generator with tensioner, without rollers.

The designers were faced with an almost unimaginable task - to install an air conditioning compressor, which they accomplished. Yes, not perfect, but we did it. And therefore, two additional pulleys appeared here - a compressor and a tension roller.

By the way, many car owners later began installing these same brackets with a tensioner in order to dismantle this circuit.

Replacing the timing belt on a Priora 16 valves

Let's get to work. First, unscrew the oil filler neck, then pull off the plastic casing. Then there are two development options. We will look at a more complex one, with air conditioning. Its difference is in the additional video, this has already been said. The whole point is that it also needs to be unscrewed, because it simply interferes with removing the protective cover.

Here you need a 15mm head. Unscrew the roller and remove the alternator belt. On the way, we listen to the video so that it doesn’t buzz, otherwise we need to replace it. Next, the timing belt casing opens before us. Remove the front upper and lower parts of the casing. To do this, unscrew the 8 Torx bolts.

There is also a surprise here if you use a ratchet. One of the bolts, the one closest to the passenger compartment, will have to be unscrewed using a simple Torx wrench, because the head with a tip and a ratchet will not fit between the engine and the spar.

So, we removed the casing, in front of us is the timing belt and all the rollers.

It is best to rotate by the camshaft - it is easier than by the crankshaft. It is not advisable to rotate the camshafts separately from the crankshaft. A maximum of 10 degrees to correct the marks if they misalign by a tooth or two.

Then we turn the wheel all the way to the right, someone removes it, which is not necessary. We unscrew the 4 bolts securing the mudguard using a Torx and one using a Phillips screwdriver to gain access to the crankshaft pulley.

About timing marks and their displacement — Lada 2111, 1.6 l., 2005 on DRIVE2

I have been looking for information about the valve timing of 124 internal combustion engines for a long time, and now I came across this material completely by accident. In general, I understand what is being said here. But it would be nice if someone thoroughly chewed on what exactly a change in one or another direction of pulsations, the angle of inclination of the first peak, passing through zero and the maximum value of the vacuum vacuum mean.

From my own experience, I can say that shifting the entrance 1 tooth to the right adds elasticity. And also the intake and exhaust are shifted to the right. And shifting the descent to the left gives a noticeable jerk (acceleration) somewhere around 3500 rpm.

Timing PHASES on a VAZ 2112. The belt is specially moved to one tooth, forward and backward. Engine 21124 (1.6 16kl.) Gearboxes:

Gear 2112

.

Norm

• ХХ = 840 rpm (engine is warm, measured after turning off the fan, t = 97 degrees) • the difference between DR and DPKV is 0.32 degrees; First, auto-tuning is performed according to DPKV, then an indicator (1 or 2) is set at the beginning of the line (i.e., the value of the marker displayed on the line will be equal to 0). Auto-tuning is then performed based on DR and the marker value (on the ruler) previously set at the beginning of the ruler. The displayed value will be considered the difference. 2) the difference between DPKV and DR is calculated as in point 1, but vice versa. First, auto-tuning is performed using DR, then using DPKV 3) Real UOZ - UOZ according to the scanner 4) As a result of all experiments, the ECU did not generate a direction finding error (phase sensor

Release the norm of tooth 0; 1 posterior tooth entry

Release the norm of tooth 0; 1 posterior tooth entry

Signs: • ХХ = 840 rpm (t = 92 degrees) • The angle of inclination of the 1st peak has increased, it has become softer • Pulsations have decreased • The maximum values ​​of vacuum and vacuum have decreased • Extra transitions from 0 to appeared) Automatic adjustment by DR • the difference between the DR and DPKV is -8.44 degrees • SOP 25 degrees (real 15 degrees) • the closing degrees of the exhaust valves have shifted slightly to the right • the phase overlap has shifted slightly to the right side b) Auto-tuning for DPKV • the difference between DPKV and DR is +8, 27 degrees • SOP 16 degrees (actual 15 degrees) • Exhaust valves close late and intake valves open later • Overlap phase shifted to the right

Release the norm of tooth 0; Input 1 tooth forward

Release the norm of tooth 0; Input 1 tooth forward

• ХХ = 850 rpm (t = 92 degrees) • The angle of inclination of the 1st peak has decreased, it has become steeper • The pulsations have become larger • The maximum values ​​of vacuum and vacuum have become much larger • There are extra transitions through 0 a) Auto-tuning in accordance with DR • difference between DR and DPKV is +15 degrees • UOZ 3 degrees (15 real degrees), missing in DR waveform b) Auto-tuning according to DPKV • difference between DPKV and DP – 15 degrees • UOZ 16 degrees (15 real degrees) , missed within the DR waveform • Exhaust valves close earlier and intake valves open earlier • Overlap phase shifted to the left Release 1 tooth forward; Normal input 0 tooth • XX = 840 rpm (t = 92 degrees) • The inclination angle of the 1st vertex has remained virtually unchanged • Pulsations have decreased • The maximum values ​​of vacuum and vacuum have decreased slightly DPKV to + 3 degrees • SOP according to DR 12 degrees ( real 15 degrees) b) Auto-tuning by DPKV • difference between DPKV and DR is -3.47 degrees • UOZ by DPKV 15 degrees (real 15 degrees) • Drain valves close a little earlier and inlet valves open a little earlier • The overlap phase is shifted to the left

Release 1 tooth forward; Standard input 0 teeth

Release 1 tooth forward; Standard input 0 teeth

Causes of belt breakage

One of the common problems with the model is the failure of the timing belt. The reasons for this may be different:

• Simple wear and tear caused by a long period of use of the vehicle;
• Regular increased loads under which the engine has to work intensively;
• Mechanical damage as a result of improper operation or received during the repair of other components;
• Manufacturing defect.

Regardless of the causes of the problem, it must be eliminated.

Over time, it stretches so much that the gear teeth jump by 1-2 links. This disrupts the valve timing and causes interruptions in engine operation. But this is the best-case scenario for such a situation. The worst is when the strap breaks and the valves bend.

Originals, analogues, articles and prices

Drive specifications: length 1295 x number of teeth 136 x width 9.5 mm.

Before purchasing spare parts, check the compatibility of the parts with the model of your technical device. Check the catalog numbers against the data specified in the instruction manual.

When we change the belt, do not forget to put marks on the crankshaft and camshaft. Many car enthusiasts neglect this rule, as a result of which the engine does not start, operates unstably, and the ignition angle is lost.

Which belt is better: domestic or foreign manufacturer. Russian analogues are not inferior in quality to imported ones, so it is not rational to overpay for a brand name. The final decision is made by the owner of the technical equipment, but it is necessary to listen to the opinions of experts.

Causes of drive belt wear

• Duration of vehicle operation without intermediate prevention and diagnostics;
• Installation of non-original parts, poor workmanship;
• Mismatch in length, width, number of teeth;
• Aggressive driving style, speed limits;
• Critically high (low) temperature conditions, climatic features.

Signs of belt wear

• Unstable engine starting: excessive wear or weak tension leads to malfunction of the ignition system;
• Copious amounts of smoke from the exhaust pipe due to melting of the catalytic filler;
• The appearance of third-party sounds when the engine is running;
• Presence of oily streaks around the perimeter of the drive mechanism;
• Cracks, fiber breaks on the belt, broken teeth, other signs of wear;
• The power unit does not start, the starter rotates.

Consequences of untimely replacement of the timing drive

• Wear of pistons, crankshaft liners, camshaft, valve mechanism;
• Increased engine oil consumption;
• Deformation of gears, cylinder head (cylinder head).

What can cause a timing belt to break?

In a VAZ-2112 car with 16 valves, rupture of a belt part can occur due to:

1. Strong or, on the contrary, weak tension. To make sure it is tensioned correctly, it is recommended to use a special device called a frequency meter. Measurements should only be taken from a cold engine, the indicator should not exceed 155 Hz +/- 3 Hz.
2. A rupture will be inevitable if the part has been in use for a long time and the replacement was not made in a timely manner. Since there is a constant temperature difference during the working position, the belt element gradually collapses, cracks appear on it, which leads to rupture.
3. Due to improper placement of the bearing, which can jam and tear the timing belt.
4. Due to leakage of the oil seal, which coats the part with oil.
5. Due to a low-quality timing belt, which was installed in the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine by the manufacturer.

These are the most basic reasons that lead to the rupture of the HMS belt. If you carefully monitor the technical condition of the machine and repair it yourself at the slightest sign of breakdown, you can avoid very unpleasant situations that can happen at any time.

If the plate is not made

Everyone knows that on a VAZ-2112 engine, tensioning and replacing the timing belt is done using a key. Its appearance is shown in the photo.

Tension adjustment key

You can make a slot on the handle, and then, installing a dynamometer, adjust the force as shown above.

If the force is 4 kgf, then the distance from the slot to the midpoint between the pins should be 49.5 mm.

The difference between methods “1” and “2” is very simple: in the second case, the plate (key) is not fixed. This means that the key will have to be held at the same level while tightening the nut. Make a choice.

Belt replacement

Replacing the timing belt must be described separately, depending on how many valves your VAZ 2110 has - 8 or 16. Self-repair of the unit on an 8-valve engine is considered easier, although you should not have any serious problems with a 16-valve engine.

8 valve

The sequence of work will be as follows:

Disconnect the battery by removing the negative cable; Unscrew the bolts from the belt protective cover; Remove this protective cover; Remove the front wheel on the passenger side, while simultaneously removing the mudguards and engine compartment protection; Turn the generator pulley clockwise so that the marks on the cover and the pulley match; Remove the protective plug from the gearbox and check in the resulting hole to see how much the control marks match; Using a metal screwdriver or other object, you need to block the flywheel; After this, you can unscrew and remove the generator pulley; Make a few turns to loosen the nut that holds your belt tensioner pulley in place; Remove the old belt. You won’t need it anymore, so feel free to send it to the landfill; The space needs to be cleaned and degreased. White spirit is perfect for this; After rinsing, dry everything using a dry and clean cloth; Install a new roller, following the direction arrows

If they are missing, then take the inscription into account. It should be located from left to right, that is, you could read it without any problems; To tighten the belt, move the roller counterclockwise; Check that all marks and the degree of belt tension match correctly; The compression ratio should be checked on a cold engine and at an air temperature within 15-30 degrees Celsius; Turn on the motor and with the unit running, check whether you have installed everything correctly; If the sound is normal, then the installation was completed correctly; Reassemble the removed elements in reverse order.

Troubleshooting methods

Now we list methods for eliminating these causes. Let's go in the same order.

1. Belt tension . First you need to check the tension level and compare it with the one recommended by the car manufacturer (usually indicated in the technical documentation for the car, also can be found on the Internet). If this value is higher than the recommended value, then the tension must be loosened. This is done using a torque wrench. If you don’t have one, then it’s better to contact a car service. As a last resort, you can perform this procedure “by eye,” but use the indicated devices as soon as possible. You can also use a regular dynamometer and a regular wrench for this.
2. Poor quality belt . If the two edges of the belt have different stiffness, then a situation will arise where the timing roller eats the belt from the softer side. You can check this by replacing its right and left sides. If after replacement the second side does not wear out, then the belt is to blame. There is only one way out, and it consists in purchasing and installing a new, higher quality part.
3. Wear of pump bearings . To diagnose this problem, it is necessary to dismantle the belt and check for play on the toothed pulley. If there is play, it means the part needs to be replaced. Bearings cannot be repaired.
4. The pump is installed crookedly . This situation is possible if, during the previous replacement, the adjacent surface was poorly cleaned, and small particles of the old gasket and/or pieces of dirt remained on it, but if this happens, then most likely you will understand this by the leak that appears after filling the antifreeze and starting the engine. When installing a new pump (or even an old one, if it is in good condition), be sure to thoroughly clean both surfaces (including the bolt holes), both on the pump itself and on the motor housing, and install a new gasket. In some cases, instead of a gasket, sealant is placed under the pump.
5. Problems with the video . The video needs to be reviewed. It should have minimal play and a flat working surface. To check, you can use a ruler or other similar object of the required width. It also makes sense to check the presence of grease in the bearing. If its quantity is small, it should be added. If the roller is of poor quality, it must be replaced. It is almost impossible to repair the bearing, much less the roller surface.
6. Damage to stud threads. To correct this situation, there are two options. The simplest is to use a saw with the appropriate diameter for turning internal threads and/or a die for turning similar threads on a stud. Another option is more labor-intensive and involves completely dismantling the block in order to restore the specified thread. This method is used if for some reason it is impossible to use the sword.

   
   Installing washers under the roller

7. Roller pin bend . Mechanically fixing a stud is almost impossible. Sometimes (but not in all cases, and it depends on the degree of curvature of the pin and the location of its bending) you can try to unscrew the pin and screw it back in, but with the other side. If the curvature is small, then such a solution may be successful. However, in most cases, shims are used. Let's consider this point separately, since most car enthusiasts consider this method a real panacea if the timing belt is eaten from the engine side or from the opposite side.

How to check the condition of the VAZ 2110 timing belt

To check the condition of the timing belt you need to:

• remove the front timing belt protective cover plug,
• remove the alternator belt so that it does not interfere,
• unscrew 6 bolts and remove the front protective cover,
• Having gained access to the timing belt, we inspect it.

If during your next inspection you notice:

• cuts on the timing belt, bulges,
• delamination, appearance of broken threads,
• numerous cracks, folds, severe abrasions,
• oil leaks on the belt,

it must be replaced immediately.

As a rule, young drivers perform such repairs in specialized auto repair shops or car repair centers. But, if you decide to replace the old belt with a new one yourself, prepare the tools and materials: heads “10”, “17”, a special wrench used to tension the belt, a screwdriver, a new timing belt, detergent, clean rags.

Injector types

The injector controls fuel injection and can also control the ignition. On all new injection machines, the ignition is set by a computer and adjusted by compiling various firmware. But this was not always the case, and on old cars, the same Japanese ones from the 90s, the ECU only regulates fuel injection, and the ignition timing is set using a distributor and set in the same way as on old models. Lada, but depending on the speed, the ignition timing is adjusted using a more complex vacuum system than the Zhiguli carburetor. Sometimes a pipe breaks during operation and the traction is lost; you will have to look for and correct this defect.

Ignition control

Electronic ignition control

How to set the ignition angle? In systems with electronic ignition control, this can be done using computer diagnostics that are connected to the electronic control unit (ECU) or "brains" of the car. And there you can see how the engine operates in real time: what signals the sensors receive, what engine speed, fuel consumption, injection time, ignition time and other input and output data.

Essentially, you don't need to change anything while running unless you change the firmware. That is, if the machine somehow began to work incorrectly, then most likely there could be several reasons:

1. An incorrect signal is received from the sensors: in this case, you can replace the supposedly faulty sensor with a replacement one that is known to be good, and see if the result changes.
2. The mains voltage is incorrect and as a result the sensors produce an incorrect signal. The input signal to the sensor is 5 V, if this value is different, the ECU will receive incorrect input data and the engine will not be able to operate normally.
3. Faulty ECU. Quite often it happens that, having considered everything possible, it turns out that the brain has flown. But it’s not scary, they are cheap at VAZ.

Therefore, the ignition itself is not installed on injection machines; it is already included in the system, but it is worth checking whether the signs are set correctly.

Adjusting the ignition marks on the VAZ-2110 injector

When the engine is running, some phases must work synchronously, the camshaft must coincide with the crankshaft, and the timing of fuel injection and ignition must be associated with them. Let's look at all this using the VAZ-2110 as an example.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2110 injector

If the car does not start, shoots, sneezes and everything is in the tube, then there are no signs somewhere and this needs to be solved.

On any car, the timing marks must be set perfectly, only then it will work normally. On the VAZ-2110, the crankshaft mark is located on the flywheel. You need to look through the inspection window on the gearbox housing, through which you can see the flywheel. It's better to use a flashlight because it's not that easy to see.

Setting the ignition timing

Required for carburetor models only. To work you will need a tool - a strobe light. It is sold in almost all car dealerships and at a reasonable price. It is also advisable to have a wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the distributor.

When choosing the correct ignition timing, mark 1 on the flywheel should be between the central division (notch) 2 and the previous division 3 of the scale. If not, adjust the ignition timing.

To adjust the ignition timing on a VAZ 2110 you need to:

1. Do minimal work. The crankshaft should rotate at a maximum speed of 820-900 rpm. The tube coming from the carburetor and connecting to the vacuum valve must be disconnected.
2. Take a strobe light and connect the cables to the “-” and “+” terminals of the battery. The tip of the high-voltage wire must be removed from the socket and the wire coming from the strobe inserted.
3. Remove the rubber plug from the slot in the crankcase and point the strobe light at the free space. Next you need to start the car. During its operation, it is necessary to apply a mark to the flywheel. As soon as the engine starts, the strobe light starts. Flashing will indicate a sign. The flashing will be fast and the sign will remain stationary. However, if you move the dispenser, the label will move.
4. To move the label and dispenser, you must loosen the top nut securing the dispenser, as well as the 2 lower nuts. Subsequently, the distributor can be turned slightly. At this time, the mark will also move with the strobe light.

To understand the process of adjusting the ignition in more detail and clearly, it is recommended to watch the corresponding videos. To resolve the issue of how to set the ignition on the VAZ 2110 8 injector, you can also consult with experienced car owners.