The steering rack is knocking on the Lada Kalina, what should I do?

Malfunctions of RM Kalina and ways to eliminate them

Even the most reliable mechanisms wear out, especially if they are not protected from dust, dirt, water and aggressive environments. Although the steering rack of the Lada Kalina is located under the hood of the car and is protected from below by a pallet, during operation, especially in off-road conditions, it is exposed to all of the listed factors. The main malfunctions of the PM can be grouped into three groups:

large free play of the steering wheel;
knocking, noise and creaking in the mechanism;
tight steering wheel.

Increased play, squeaks and knocking of the Kalina PM can be caused by:

loosening the tie rod nuts,
wear of their tips and silent blocks,
loosening the PM fastening nuts,
large gap between the rack and the adjusting nut.

These faults are easy to fix: you need to tighten the nuts and pin them where necessary, and replace the silent blocks with new ones.

Difficulty turning the Lada Kalina steering wheel can be caused by more serious reasons:

wear of the bearings of the upper support of the steering column upper universal joint,
damage to the rack support bushing,
failure of the telescopic strut of the front suspension,
faulty electric power steering or low tire pressure.

Many Lada Kalina owners are interested in whether it is possible to replace the standard rack with a mechanism of a different design. It's possible, but not necessary. The manufacturer does not structurally provide for the replacement of the rack and pinion steering mechanism with other types. Worm or screw PMs simply won't do. To facilitate steering wheel rotation, an electric power steering is installed on all Kalina models.

Features of Kalina's suspension

A detailed inspection of Kalina’s suspension reveals hydraulic shock-absorbing struts, which are attached to the steering knuckle in the lower part, being the basis of the entire structure of the unit. The bolt located in the upper part of the steering knuckle allows you to adjust the camber element.

In the assembly, the upper part passes through a hole that is located in the existing bracket. The body part is equipped with a mudguard, to which the top of the rack is fixed using three nuts. Due to the existing elasticity of this unit, high-frequency vibration is excellently damped. In this case, a characteristic swaying of the Kalina suspension strut occurs during the working stroke.

The front suspension of the Lada Kalina is telescopic and has complete independence.

Kalina's suspension, which is characterized by the presence of conical or coil springs, ensures a particularly smooth ride due to the presence of a stabilizer. This allows you to avoid compromising the lateral stability of the car. This function is also performed by levers that relate to transverse braces. The bearing for turning the strut must allow the wheels to turn.

Causes of bearing failure

The main cause of support bearing failure is dust and water, which inevitably penetrate inside. The lack of lubrication does not have the best effect. Sharp blows to the rack will not add to the service life

It is worth taking into account the quality of roads, because they have a direct impact on the natural wear of the support bearing. That is why with us, a part can wear out faster than its manufacturer claims

Dirt and sand are some of the hardest impacts on a bearing. We remember that a journal bearing is a type of rolling bearing, and it does not have any protection mechanisms against harmful factors. Driving at high speeds and harsh brakes, especially on bad roads, also do not add to the service life of the part in question. However, not only the bearing itself suffers from this, but also all other suspension elements as a whole will soon require repair.

Diagnostics of the condition of components and troubleshooting

After carrying out a visual inspection of the suspension of the Lada Kalina, which will allow you to find out the cause of the knocking, you can proceed to dismantling the faulty elements. For example, car shock absorbers. Diagnostics are carried out by placing the car over an inspection hole or using a jack

Particular attention is paid to elements adjacent to the body or car frame

Diagnostics involves a thorough examination of the suspension elements, the presence of various damages, cracks and breaks on them. If a breakthrough is detected in the rubber protection of the steering tip, it must be repaired. Rubber seals are inspected for mechanical damage and those areas where there are breaks and cracks are identified.

As a result of a muffler breakage, a knock will be heard in the suspension. To identify the cause of such sounds, which may lie in the exhaust pipe, the muffler should be rocked in different directions. This is a quick way to diagnose the front suspension. After this is completed, you can proceed to suspension repair.

The front suspension consists of: 1 — nut for securing the upper strut support; 2 - bolt; 3 — upper support of the front suspension strut; 4 — bearing of the upper support of the strut; 5 — upper insulating gasket of the spring; 6 — front suspension spring; 7 — protective casing; 8 — telescopic stand assembly; 9, 10 — nuts securing the strut to the steering knuckle; 11 — bolt with eccentric; 12 - bolt; 13 — steering knuckle; 14 — front wheel drive shaft; 15 — stabilizer bar; 16 - stretching; 17 — lever; 18 — ball joint; 19 — hub; 20 — hub fastening nut; 21 — brake disc; 22 — front suspension compression buffer; 23 — upper spring cup; 24 — compression stroke limiter of the upper strut support; 25 — travel limiter of the upper strut support; 26 — stabilizer strut mounting nut; N - reference size

It is possible to eliminate various malfunctions that occur in the front suspension of the Lada Kalina car if their cause is known. If there are faulty front suspension struts that can knock, they should be replaced. In some cases, they can be repaired.

If during the diagnosis it was revealed that the bolts that secure the stabilizer bar that provides lateral stability to the car body are loose, then they need to be tightened. Worn rubber or rod pads are replaced.

If the fastening of the upper support of the Lada Kalina suspension strut is loose, then it is necessary to tighten the nuts securing this unit. If the front suspension exhibits destruction of the rubber support of the strut, then it must be replaced. If the rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) are worn out, new ones should be installed.

The presence of a malfunction in the stabilizer bar struts requires replacement. If the front suspension spring settles and the front suspension spring breaks, it should be replaced. If the compression stroke buffer is destroyed, it is dismantled and a new one is installed. If there is increased wheel imbalance, you should contact a tire repair shop so that specialists can eliminate the identified malfunction.

Replacing the ball joint

Tool for work:

wrenches 17, 19;
hammer;
mount;
puller;
head for 12.

The ball joint is being replaced

The car is put on the handbrake, the bolts of the wheel from which the ball joint will be removed are loosened. Using a jack, the front part of the Lada Kalina car is raised, the bolts and wheel are removed. Use a 19 wrench to unscrew the ball pin nut. Insert the puller and twist to release the support pin.

The support fastening bolts are removed using a 12mm socket. The lever is pressed down, the support is released and removed. There is another way to dismantle the ball joint: the brake disc is placed on a rigged brick, the jack is lowered slightly to relieve the lever. At this moment the rack rises up, the ball is released.

A large amount of lubricant must be added to the new support. The pin is put in place, the nut is tightened with a torque of 66-82 Nm. If the holes of the steering knuckle and the support coincide, the bolts are tightened. The procedure requires patience and considerable effort.

Non-standard cases

It may not be the suspension or steering parts that are knocking. Shocks and body pecks lead to the movement of units. If they “sit” loosely and there is metal-to-metal contact, clinking cannot be avoided.

Single dull knock when starting off. See rubber-metal engine or gearbox mounts, transmission driveshaft. For example, when starting, the motor may tilt and hit the spar.
Rattling on small bumps and in turns. Listen to see if there is a knocking sound in the steering wheel when braking; if there is, the brake caliper guides are worn out.
Intermittent impact sound, more common when turning at low speeds. Malfunction in the differential of a front-wheel drive vehicle.

Tighten the key bolts and nuts more often, refuel only at gas stations with high-quality gasoline, and remember: a worn CV joint does not knock, but crunches, and does this with the wheels turned out.

Causes of knocking in the steering column

The steering column does not have a very complex design, however, this does not mean that the system is trouble-free and does not require attention. Regular checking, adjustment and restoration of the functionality of this mechanism will help preserve the life and health of the driver, passengers and pedestrians. The knocking noise may be accompanied by the steering wheel beating when braking. Such manifestations can appear unexpectedly and are caused by:

deformation of system parts;
looseness of fasteners;
leakage of working fluid from the mechanism or lack of lubrication in it;
loosening the ball joint nuts;
increasing the gap between the gear and the rack;
backlash;
weakening the density of connections.

At the same time, there is a kickback on the steering wheel, and this is a problem that needs to be solved. A knocking sound in the column is also possible for other reasons. There are not many of them, as it seems at first glance. Sometimes it is only possible to make an accurate diagnosis when you remove and disassemble the steering wheel. Such sounds appear where the steering parts, instead of fitting tightly to each other, have lost this density.

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

Before removing the amplifier, you need to remove all the steering column switches. Remove the steering rack cover and dismantle the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.

How to remove the EUR with your own hands:

After removing the switches, you will need to dismantle the lower cross member of the dashboard. To do this, you need to press the fasteners that secure the connector with wires, and then disconnect the wiring from the control module. Once these steps are completed, you can disconnect the connector from the switches.
The system bracket is secured with nuts; you will need to unscrew them with a wrench.
After this, the steering rack will need to be carefully lowered down. To do this, you will need to find the bolt that secures the driveshaft to the booster shaft. This bolt must be unscrewed, but when unscrewing, you will need to fix the nut, this will prevent it from turning. When the bolt is removed, the fastening will need to be loosened, after which the intermediate shaft will be carefully removed. At this stage, we recommend marking the position of the shaft and gears; you can use a marker for this. This step is very important because doing it will prevent possible installation problems in the future. If the marks on the shafts do not match, this may cause problems with the amplifier. When dismantling, be careful not to damage the wiring, as this will also lead to the inoperability of the ESD.
When the unit is dismantled, it will need to be disassembled and the failed elements replaced. Further editing is done in reverse order (the author of the video is Murzik Bely).

How to remove the steering wheel from a Lada Kalina

When the steering wheel on Kalina sticks, you need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and wait about 10 minutes for the airbag activation capacitor to discharge. The two latches and cushion latches should be released.

There are holes on the sides of the steering wheel. If the steering wheel was not removed, they are sealed. After removing the seal, use a flat tool to find a stop with a spring in the vacated opening. Squeeze the latch with one hand and pull the pillow toward you with the other until it clicks. If the cushion does not return to its place, the latch has become loose. Do the same on the other side.

The released cushion should be moved slightly. A pair of audio signal wires are disconnected by using a flat object, maybe a knife, to pry off the small yellow clip from the orange connector of the airbag. It is moved forward, the connector is removed, the pillow is released and set aside.

Steering wheel mounts

Then you need to find a small arrow on the shaft and make a mark opposite it for the correct orientation of the steering wheel. Loosen the steering wheel nut, but do not twist it all the way, leave about two turns. Using the method of swinging towards yourself, tighten the steering wheel until it stops against the nut. Align the wheels of the car and ensure that the steering wheel is installed straight. Remove the pin, connect the marks and insert it into the switch block under the steering wheel.

Under no circumstances allow the steering wheel to move, otherwise it can be broken off along with the base of the block, unscrew the nut. Pull the wires through the outlet and remove the steering wheel on Kalina.

We now know how to remove the steering wheel. When reassembling, all steps are performed in reverse order. Don't forget about the little things that are so important for proper installation of the steering wheel.

How to tighten the steering rack on a Priora

Lada Priora is a Russian-made car that is highly popular among our compatriots due to its low price and attractive appearance.

However, even despite this, the Lada Priora has one vulnerability associated with the poor quality of the road surface - the steering rack or, in the language of specialists, the “power steering/power steering gearbox”.

Fortunately, you can tighten it with your own hands.

When does the steering rack need to be tightened on a Priora?

The steering rack is a vulnerable point for the Lada Priora. The first sign indicating the need to adjust the rack is the appearance of a knocking sound when driving over small uneven surfaces.
The knocking will be felt especially clearly when driving on country roads. In this case, the driver will feel shocks and vibrations on the steering wheel, which will also be transmitted to the entire car body. In addition, if the steering wheel adjustment nut is loosened when driving on the highway, the car will “float” a little, and additional steering will be required from the driver, which will also immediately become noticeable.

Experts also say that a tightening is necessary if the driver begins to notice the appearance of a clearly audible crunching sound in the area of the steering column, as well as an increase in the amplitude of the steering wheel rotation.

When tightening doesn’t help and the mechanism needs to be changed

It’s worth thinking about replacing the rack when tightening it does not in any way affect the car’s behavior on the road, and also does not help get rid of the unpleasant knocking noise.

A failed steering rack will cause significant play in the steering wheel. Moreover, it may begin to jam (this happens extremely rarely, but similar cases are known).

If the rack begins to jam, then it is better to stop using the car, as this can lead to the most dire consequences.

You cannot do without a replacement even if after tightening it you managed to get rid of knocks and vibrations, but they reappeared later.

What is needed for work and how to tighten the steering

To tighten the steering rack you will need special wrenches. To carry out the tightening you will need the following tools:

To make the work more comfortable and faster, it is recommended to drive the car into a special inspection hole or overpass, and also use an assistant, whose role even a child can handle.

The lower rack fastening nut is not easy to unscrew

To get to the rail, you should perform a number of simple steps:

After this, you will have access to the nut responsible for adjusting the thermal gap in the rail.

Next, you need to put your hand under the steering rack and try to put the rack wrench on the nut.

It is necessary to tighten the nut clockwise, but since the rack itself is located upside down, from the outside it may seem that the nut must be tightened counterclockwise.

It is also necessary to listen to the sounds coming from the steering wheel - if there are no knocks when turning the steering wheel, and there are no other noises, then the rack is tightened correctly, and you can put the battery and rubber plug in their place.

The nuances of working on a car with EUR and power steering

According to experienced auto mechanics, the process of tightening the steering rack on cars with electric steering and power steering is practically no different, so this guide can be called universal.

It is worth noting that the complete replacement process is also identical in the case of electric steering and power steering, with the exception of one point - in cars with power steering, before replacing the rack, it is necessary to drain the fluid from the power steering tank, and in cars with electric steering, remove the terminals from the battery.

Tips for use

A complete replacement and repair is a series of actions, for the implementation of which you need to have not only special knowledge, but also a considerable amount of free time, so if the car owner does not have either the first or the second, it is preferable to go to the nearest service station.

It is better to entrust steering rack repair to service station specialists

At the same time, in order not to become their regular guest, you should know some secrets for operating the steering rack, which can significantly extend its service life.

From time to time you need to undergo a full maintenance, which will allow you to eliminate faults in advance, which can cause irreversible consequences, injury to yourself, your loved ones and other road users. And also, if problems are detected in the operation of the car, it is better not to take risks and go to the nearest car service center as quickly as possible.

TOP 5 reasons why the car steering wheel knocks when driving!

1. Knock in the steering wheel on uneven surfaces when driving straight ahead

Sometimes a knocking noise occurs when driving on uneven roads. The cause may be worn-out shaft bearings located inside the steering column. As a result, radial play of the shaft occurs, accompanied by this knocking sound. If the O-ring or retaining ring is worn, this can also lead to end play. This can be partly solved by inexpensive repair of the column due to the provided supply of necessary spare parts.

Along with replacing faulty elements, specialists also replace related elements and parts that may be serviceable, but soon will probably again require repair of the entire assembly due to their failure while driving.

Some car models have a non-removable column that cannot be restored. In this case, the entire column changes.

2. Knock when turning the steering wheel while standing still or in motion

First of all, it is worth checking the tire pressure - differently inflated wheels can also cause knocking noise when the car is moving. Next, inspect the fastening of the plastic fender liners. Probably, one or more mounting screws have broken out, which is why the fender liner touches the wheel when turning and makes a corresponding knock. The problem can be easily fixed. You just need to replace the loose fasteners with new ones.

The greatest danger is caused by malfunctions accompanied by a knocking sound from the steering mechanism itself when turning the steering wheel. The sound may be localized closer to the suspension, wheels or steering wheel. Let's look at the reasons for its occurrence, starting with the most common.

3. Constant velocity joints

A knocking sound when the steering wheel is turned while driving is usually associated with the operation of the outer CV joint, which begins to creak or, in some cases, hit the wheel. Accordingly, when turning left, a crunch or knock will occur in the right CV joint, and when turning right, in the left one.

Internal hinges, as a rule, make a squeaking or knocking sound when moving at high speed over uneven surfaces. They do not react at all to steering wheel turns. Therefore, if turning or sharp acceleration of the car is accompanied by a knocking noise, most likely the outer joint needs to be replaced. But before replacing it, you should carefully inspect it. If there is little or no wear, it is enough to treat the CV joint with appropriate lubricant.

4. Tie rods and tie rods

Both the tips and the rods in the steering system wear out over time, causing play. As a result, squeaks and knocks appear when the car turns while driving.

To check the condition of the parts, jack up the car on the side where the sounds are coming from and remove the wheel. Then try to loosen the rods and tips, thus checking for possible play. Often, dirt and water accumulate inside the tip due to a torn boot, which is why the knocking occurs.

Sometimes a distinct metallic knock when turning the steering wheel in a stationary car or while driving appears due to the fact that the car owner forgot to secure the tie rod with the end after performing a wheel alignment. You can verify this by shaking the wheel left and right with your hands. If the wheel wobbles, making a characteristic sound, the problem is precisely the loose nut.

5. Steering rack

A faulty steering rack quite often causes knocking noises when turning the steering wheel, both while driving and when the car is stationary. Why does this knock occur? There are several reasons for this:

The steering gear fasteners are not tightened properly.
The plastic support bushing of the steering wheel was severely worn, creating play.
Play appeared in the steering rack shaft bearings.
The gap between the rack teeth has increased, creating backlash and causing dull knocks when turning the steering wheel on a stationary car.
The anti-friction gasket was completely worn out, as a result of which the clamping “cracker” began to vibrate and knock on the steering rack housing.

Detecting a knock in the steering rack is a rather difficult task. It is best to use the help of a partner by asking him to sit behind the wheel of the car, previously placed on the handbrake, and position himself under the car near the steering rack. Let the assistant rotate the steering wheel, and at this time you note the creaks and crunches coming from the rack, which will signal a malfunction.

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Removing the steering rack from the car

The rear wheels are fixed by rolling back, the front wheels are lifted with a jack. Inside the car, on the driver's seat side, the column spline bolt is unscrewed. The difficulty in disconnecting is that it is located where the pedals are grouped.

After removing the front wheels, the cam nuts are removed and the space under the hood is prepared. The terminals from the battery and the battery itself are removed, along with the mounting plane and the heat reflector. The body mount of the rack is removed with a nut, it is released and placed on a flat surface for further work with it.

Diagnostics for the presence of play is carried out as follows: the rack casing is clamped in a vice and swung with force from side to side. If you feel any play, you should try to tighten the spring nut no more than 10 degrees. Check the play again, and so on until the problem is resolved. Tightening is prohibited, as the steering wheel will become very difficult to rotate, even if an electric booster is installed.

A steering rack repair kit can be purchased at any automotive store. But before you use it, you need to examine the old spare part. If this is not done, the part may need to be removed again.

Electric power steering for Kalina

Some drivers have learned to make adjustments without removing the rack. This method helps save time and effort. To perform this type of work, the car is placed in a pit and the location of the part in the front part is determined. The spare part is pulled clockwise if you can only get to it from below. If you can feel it from above, then the tightening goes counterclockwise. Actions are carried out in the sequence described above.

It must be remembered that replacement does not always solve the problem; the rack continues to make noise and squeak when turning the steering wheel. To double the service life of the steering rack of a power-assisted vehicle, constant oil monitoring, checking the technical condition of the steering rod boots and their timely replacement are important.

Front suspension repair

The cost of the parts themselves when eliminating the described reasons is most often small, but the price of replacing them in car services sometimes causes bewilderment. In such cases, it is better to repair the suspension yourself. This requires special devices and tools.

To remove the tips and ball joints of the steering wheel, pullers are needed that, during dismantling, preserve the integrity of these parts.

Silent blocks are replaced using a long threaded rod or bolt with a corresponding nut and a set of bushings and washers. The bushings should rest on the lever cage, and the washer should match the diameter of the rubber seal. Tightening the nut squeezes the silent blocks out of the lever, and then presses a new one in its place.

Dismantling the shock absorber strut is done with two ties that compress the spring. This makes it possible to unscrew the mounting bolts, remove the support bearing and remove the shock absorber and spring. The new spring is also completely compressed by the ties, then the entire assembly is assembled.

A knock when turning the steering wheel should not make the driver nervous. However, as soon as you have time, you should immediately start troubleshooting the problem. Today on the Internet you can find videos from professional craftsmen and amateurs about repairing suspensions of different car models and for various malfunctions. It is better to spend time studying their experience and then repair everything efficiently and quickly.

The steering, along with the car's braking system, are the most important elements that ensure safe driving at any speed and on any road. Therefore, when knocks, clicks and other extraneous noises begin when turning the steering wheel, in any case, you need to sound the alarm and immediately look for the cause of the problem in order to eliminate it. Now we will tell you why a knocking sound may appear when turning the steering wheel while standing still or in motion, and what problems does it indicate?

First of all, you need to clearly localize the place where the knocking is heard, as well as determine the conditions under which it occurs, this will greatly help you in finding the breakdown, the symptom of which is the knocking. In addition, different steering systems may knock in different situations and such a knock will indicate different breakdowns. We list the main causes of knocking when turning the steering wheel:

wear of the constant velocity joint;
wear of the ball joint;
wear of the support bearing of the stabilizer link;
wear of steering tips;
the appearance of play in the steering rack and leakage of working fluid from it;
loose steering wheel nut;

In principle, these are the most common causes of knocking and other noises when turning the steering wheel. But there are also less common breakdowns that cause similar sounds. But we can talk about such special cases only using the example of a specific car model in which such knocks began.

A knocking sound, or rather a crunching sound, when turning the steering wheel, as a rule. This indicates that it is time to change the CV joint or constant velocity joint. Although, it is not always necessary to replace this unit. Often, it is enough to replace the boot on the CV joint and replenish the lubricant. By the way, a special lubricant is needed; ordinary grease is not suitable here. CV joints can be external, which is what usually needs to be changed, as well as internal. The inner CV joint fails in serious traffic accidents, or in the event of a sudden failure of other components, for example, the ball joint of the wheel. The constant velocity joint can knock for quite a long time, but still, it is better to replace it as quickly as possible so as not to worry about every trip.

Quick Guide

The main reason for tapping is the formation of a gap in the joints. In the steering system, there may be knocking on the tips, ball joints of the rods, the rack, the “cardan” in the column, the steering wheel on the shaft, or the auto-folding system in case of an accident. The metallic sound is distinct and can be heard in place when rocking the steering wheel.

It is quite possible to mistake problems in the suspension for problems in the steering, since the initial stages of wear of bearings and supports only make themselves felt when cornering at speed. In the suspension part, the cause of the knock should be sought in the wheel bearings, ball joints and “supports”.

What to do if you hear a knocking noise when turning the steering wheel?
Steering problems
Tie Rod Ends
Steering rack
Steering column cardan
Problems with power steering (power steering)
Fluid level, faulty pump, air in system, loose belt
Drive faults
CV joint (grenade)
Front wheel bearing
Front suspension problems
Front strut support bearing
Lower ball joints
Broken strut spring
Leaking shock absorber

Many motorists have encountered a problem when a knock is heard when turning the steering wheel. If you are turning the steering wheel and there is a knocking noise, you should not delay repairing and eliminating the problem. This can happen to any car, both new and old. Many people immediately rush to contact a service station, but if you understand the issue, you can eliminate the cause of the knocking yourself. This will help you save money and not worry about it next time.

The most common causes of knocking can be: problems related to the steering mechanism, drive and suspension, or other problems.

If you hear a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel, you should not hope that it will go away on its own. Be sure to eliminate the cause of the knocking noise, as this affects the operation of the entire car.

Steering problems

Tie Rod Ends

First of all, if you hear a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel in place or while driving, you need to pay attention to the steering tips. Damage often occurs due to sand that gets into the tip through a damaged boot, and then backlash occurs. This is what causes the knocking. To check the serviceability of the tips, you need to loosen the steering rod with a pry bar. If you notice a lot of play and knocking, then the problem is in the tie rod ends. You can replace worn tips yourself, but for this you will need a special puller. It is better to set the wheel alignment angles at the service station.

Steering rack

Another reason for knocking in the suspension when turning the steering wheel can be wear on the steering rack guide bushings. Problems are caused by a gap that has arisen between the gear and rack, which creates a knock when the steering wheel rotates. The malfunction can be eliminated by disassembling the mechanism and replacing worn parts.

Steering column cardan

Damage to the driveshaft can also result in knocking noises. If this is the reason, replacing it will help correct the situation.

Problems with power steering (power steering)

The knocking noise can also be caused by problems with the power steering. Its malfunction is often encountered when identifying the causes of knocking.

Preparatory actions, dismantling unnecessary parts

To remove the crankcase protection, you need to unscrew 4 screws located in one row near the bumper. Also, unscrew two screws having a standard size of M6x16. In some configurations, the protection consists of two parts, but in this case they are attached only with self-tapping screws. These words are illustrated by the following photo:

First, unscrew the “10” screws, and then the two “18” screws. In the second case, there will be more screws (eight).

Now let's look at how to remove the battery. First of all, disconnect its terminals. Then, you need to move the additional fuse box to the side. In general, actions are performed according to the photo:

You also need to remove the mounting platform itself, for which you unscrew 4 screws. You will need a 13mm wrench, as well as a 10mm spanner. We will repeat the entire sequence again:

Unscrew the nuts holding the battery terminals using a 10 mm wrench;
Remove both terminals;
Move the fuse box to the side by unscrewing 2 fastening screws;
Unscrew the nuts with a 10mm wrench and remove the battery;
Unscrew the screws with a 13mm wrench and remove the metal plate.

Just in case, here is a look at the fuse box mountings:

Mounting screws are located under the casing

We adjust the Kalina-2 steering rack to eliminate knocking

Cars of the Kalina-2 family are equipped with a steering rack similar in design to the Granta rack. This part transmits force from the steering wheel to the front suspension links. If you feel a knocking sound from the rack while driving, it needs to be adjusted (tightened) correctly. The effect described here can be observed after 10-15 thousand kilometers, and more often it makes itself felt on uneven roads. Next we consider how this problem is solved in practice. And the solution comes down to turning one nut.

A little theory: front suspension design
Lyrical digression
Making adjustments yourself
Preparatory actions, dismantling unnecessary parts
It turns out that the steering rack can be repaired (video example)

A little theory: front suspension design

Before attempting to fix any problem, there is a tendency to look at the blueprints or repair manual. It is known that the VAZ-2192 parts catalog contains the following object:

Whether the knock will remain in the steering rack of Kalina-2 depends on the following: how accurately element “14” is adjusted. The adjusting nut, marked “14”, looks almost invisible here. But first impressions are deceiving. In the catalog, by the way, the element is called “Stop Nut”.

Now let's move on to practice and see what the node in question looks like in reality:

The nut has a non-standard notch, and it can only be rotated with a special tool. By the way, the recess will be closed with a cap. In the catalog it is designated by the number “15”, and now, let’s look at the appearance of the special key:

The thrust nut is turned at small angles. We are talking about values of 10-15 degrees. What happens if you overdo it with tightening the rack? The knocking noise will disappear, but the steering wheel will turn with difficulty. Therefore, if necessary, the nut can be pulled back.

Lyrical digression

In Lada Kalina, the steering rack never makes a knock when we are talking about a new car. This is also true for the break-in period. Let's say in your case this is not done. Then, do not try to repair anything, but go straight to the dealer. According to reviews, the defect in question is covered under warranty, and most car dealers do this: the steering rack assembly is replaced with a new one.

There is a logic here. At the factory, adjustments are made correctly (this is true in 99.9% of cases). If a defect appears, the dealer replaces the assembly without expecting that adjustment will solve the problem. The owner does not need to hope for this either. The choice is yours.

Making adjustments yourself

You can access the adjusting nut from the engine compartment, but to do this you will need to remove the battery, as well as the battery mounting pad. It is better to drive the car into a pit and then remove the crankcase protection (engine mudguard). If you look from under the bottom, the required element is immediately visible:

And when you open the hood, you can feel the nut, but not see it. Its location is marked in the figure:

Before adjustment, remove the rubber cap from the recess. Its appearance is shown in the photo:

If it is not entirely clear what exactly needs to be done, it is better to contact the service. The key is installed in the recess and then rotated 10-15 degrees.

Preparatory actions, dismantling unnecessary parts

First, unscrew the “10” screws, and then the two “18” screws. In the second case, there will be more screws (eight).

You also need to remove the mounting platform itself, for which you unscrew 4 screws. You will need a 13mm wrench, as well as a 10mm spanner. We will repeat the entire sequence again:

Unscrew the nuts holding the battery terminals using a 10 mm wrench;
Remove both terminals;
Move the fuse box to the side by unscrewing 2 fastening screws;
Unscrew the nuts with a 10mm wrench and remove the battery;
Unscrew the screws with a 13mm wrench and remove the metal plate.

Just in case, here is a look at the fuse box mountings:

Steering wheel sticks when turning with ignition on

That is, it does not return back, but remains, as it were, bitten in the extreme left or right position. And this, even at a very low speed! Moreover, if the ignition is turned off, this situation is natural for any car. But when turned on... Agree, this can lead to irreparable consequences.

In this case, the problem of why the steering wheel sticks when turning is to blame for the faulty switch block, the steering column. You may have to deal with the ignition switch itself. Therefore, if you are not an automotive electrician, it is best not to take risks, since it is very difficult to carry out this work yourself without appropriate training. So, we turn on the emergency lights and slowly and carefully crawl to the nearest service station, where there is an appropriate specialist. And be careful when turning: enter them smoothly, without twisting the steering wheel to extreme positions, so as not to bite again.