Chevrolet Niva ignition module signs of malfunction

The ignition module (IM) of the Niva-Chevrolet car is highly reliable and, most often, provides sparking over many tens of thousands of kilometers. However, if it fails, it is difficult to diagnose due to the lack of obvious signs. The decent cost of a module does not always allow it to be replaced with a new one, which is called “blindly”. First you need to reliably verify that the old one is faulty. Read the article about how to check the ignition module of a Niva-Chevrolet.

Briefly about the design

The main purpose of any MZ is to convert a low-voltage signal into a high voltage sufficient for normal sparking in the cylinders. Therefore, structurally, the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module is a pulse transformer. A signal from the electronic control unit (ECU) is supplied to its input, and a voltage of about 20 - 30 kV is removed from the output. The module has a connector for connecting the low-voltage part and four sockets into which the so-called armored wires are inserted.

High voltage is supplied to two cylinders at once. In this case, 90% of the energy is spent on the formation of a spark where the compression stroke ends. The working mixture in it is under high pressure, which means it has high conductivity. Thus, the module consists of two independent ignition coils.

Description of the camshaft sensor on Niva Chevrolet

Where is it located: in engines with a gasoline power system, the DPRV is installed on the camshaft pulley. In an engine with a diesel power system, the control system is somewhat different. Where the upper and lower position of the piston in each cylinder is fixed.

On engines with a carburetor fuel system, the role of the DPRV is played by the distributor. The design of the injector is different, the system was parallelized, injection and ignition were done in pairs.

During systematic operation, the household equipment wears out and becomes unusable. The process of self-replacement is not at all difficult. The task is feasible for a car enthusiast without technical equipment maintenance skills.

Repeated restart of the engine is the first sign of a malfunction of the DH (DPRV).

To determine which cylinder is on stroke, the electronic engine control unit controls the position of the camshaft using DPRV (SMR)

Data from the sensor is extremely important for setting and dosing fuel, sparks in the combustion chamber, and injectors. The camshaft sensor directly affects fuel consumption, acceleration dynamics, and the amount of emissions in the exhaust gases.

In cars, including Niva Chevrolet, magnetic and Hall effect sensors are preinstalled. Both types are designed to read and transmit data to the electronic engine control unit.

Where is the Ministry of Health located?

The location of the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module was not chosen very well. It is attached to the bottom of the cylinder block. Thus, the module is exposed to two negative factors at once:

Corrosion. This is facilitated by the low location. During operation, moisture often gets into the MH.
High temperature. Mounting the module on the cylinder block forces it to operate at temperatures close to 100 degrees.

The second factor is the most critical for MH. The manufacturer guarantees normal operation of the device up to 120 C°. This kind of temperature under the hood is rare. But constant exposure, even to lower values, significantly reduces the service life of the MH. Therefore, conscientious owners move the module to a place with more benign conditions. Most often, on the partition of the engine compartment.

Transferring a part

When the car is frequently used off-road, some car owners try to move the module as high as possible so that as little moisture gets on it as possible. Also, changing the location allows you to avoid overheating, which shortens the service life of the device. This is especially true when operating in difficult conditions, when the engine operates at high speeds, while the travel speed is low and, as a result, the interior ventilation is insufficient.

Varieties

During its production, Shniva was equipped with two types of modules.

MZ from a VAZ 2112 car. Installed until 2006. It includes a spark control system.
The module is from a VAZ 2111. It is controlled by signals from the ECU, therefore, in essence, it is a regular ignition coil.

Please note that the modules are not interchangeable. This is due to their different designs. You can determine which ignition module on a Niva-Chevrolet by its appearance. The old one has large dimensions and weight, and most importantly, unlike the new one, there are not three, but four contacts on the primary winding connector. At the same time, the process of checking the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module will be considered using the example of a new module.

Spark plug.

On the Niva Chevrolet, the spark plugs are closely related to the previous device. And if they malfunction, all the same problems as described above are possible. Spark plugs fail especially often in winter. This is due to the fact that the car is not used so often and mainly for short trips. Due to the low ambient temperature, the candles do not warm up to the maximum temperature at which they self-clean from carbon deposits.

If problems occur, it is necessary to replace the spark plugs in a timely manner so that this does not affect the performance of other system components. Spark plugs for the Chevrolet Niva must be purchased specially for eight-valve injection engines. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the gap between the electrodes. It should be no more than 1.5 mm. If this distance is greater, this will affect the duration of the candle.

Symptoms of a problem

As already mentioned, symptoms of a faulty ignition module are also typical for many other components of the car. There are almost no signs that directly indicate MH. This significantly complicates repairs. However, with experience, conclusions about a malfunction of the Chevrolet Niva ignition module can be drawn from the following symptoms.

Two cylinders are not firing at once. This is the only sign that, although not always, indicates MH. The likelihood of this increases if cylinders 1 and 4 or cylinders 2 and 3 are not working at the same time.
Idle speed “floats”.
Diagnostics shows misfires in all cylinders.
As the engine warms up, its power drops and interruptions appear.
The CHECK ENGIN alarm comes on.

It should be noted that a complete failure of the motor, in which the engine does not start at all, happens very rarely. Basically, this symptom of a malfunction of the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module indicates damage to the low-voltage part of the wiring.

General tips for connecting high-voltage wires.

Ignition module VAZ 21214 signs of malfunction
First, let's decide which of the four cylinders is first?

The first cylinder in front-wheel drive VAZs is located closer to the timing belt. If you look at the engine from the front, the first cylinder is the leftmost). And then everything is simple - from left to right - 1, 2, 3, 4.

In rear-wheel drive VAZ Classic and Niva, the first cylinder is located closer to the front bumper of the car.

Laying wires. Do not try to connect the wires in a bundle. Disassemble the wiring harnesses, release the wires from the plastic holders. Connect the high-voltage leads to the corresponding cylinder spark plugs. Lay the wires so that they do not rub against each other, engine parts, or hoses. Avoid sharp bends and tension on the wires. After connecting all the wires, secure them into the bundle with special comb holders included in the delivery kit.

The procedure for connecting I/O wires to a VAZ carburetor (2108, 2109, 21099)

The central wire from the distributor cover always goes to the ignition coil (bobbin).

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking down, is connected to the third cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking rearward, is connected to the fourth cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking up, is connected to the second cylinder.

Central wire from the ignition coil (bobbin)

1 cylinder - above the vacuum corrector. Next, clockwise, the order is 1-3-4-2.

Actually, on the module body it is already indicated which cylinder the pins correspond to - but we duplicated them in red in case the module gets completely dirty, and you might not be able to see it in the photo.

Injection VAZ produced after 2004 with a new ignition coil (3-pin low-voltage connector)

As with the old-style ignition modules, the new coils are also marked with pins corresponding to the cylinders. But the connection order is different from the order on the old-style ignition module. Be careful.

The arrow shows the direction of rotation of the ignition distributor.

For normal engine rotation, the working mixture in the cylinders is not ignited in the usual order of 1-2-3-4. The high voltage wires are inserted into the ignition distributor according to the firing order. To avoid confusion, new high voltage wires are numbered. The ignition order for all types of engines is the same: 1—3—4—2.

Causes of damage

Most often, the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module fails due to overheating caused by its poor location in the engine compartment. This simply leads to a break in the secondary winding of the pulse transformer. However, this can happen for other reasons, namely:

use of faulty high-voltage wires;
use of spark plugs other than those recommended by the manufacturer;
checking the spark by shorting the armored wire to the car body;
manufacturing defects.

Procedure for checking the ignition module

First of all, you will have to get a multimeter. There is no need to look for any high-precision and expensive instruments. The usual Chinese one will suffice. The main thing is that it has a digital display, this will greatly simplify the measurement. The optimal multimeter in terms of price and functionality is the DT 830 and its numerous modifications. This is one of the most common and easy to use devices. The verification process will be discussed using his example.

First of all, you need to make sure that the primary winding of the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module is intact. For this:

the switch on the front panel of the device is set to the 200 Ohm position;
disconnect the connector from the module, remove the high voltage wires;
sequentially measure the resistance between the middle and extreme contacts of the terminal block;
The device readings should be within 0.5 Ohm.

The accuracy of a multimeter, of course, is not enough to measure such small quantities, but to check the primary winding for an open circuit, this is quite enough.

The next step is to measure the resistance of the secondary. Sequencing:

set the range switch DT-830 to position 20 K;
The probes of the device must first be placed between the high-voltage terminals of cylinders 1 and 4, then 2 and 3;
the device display should display 5.4 kOhm.

It should be said that it is possible to diagnose a malfunction of the Niva-Chevrolet ignition module only if the readings differ significantly from the norm, or, more often, if “1” lights up on the device indicator. This means an infinitely large resistance, in other words, a winding break.

Some gasoline engines that are installed on modern domestic and imported cars are equipped with ignition modules, which are a pulsed high-voltage current source. There are situations when these devices fail, leading to a complete or partial loss of performance of the car engine. Ways to check for a malfunction in the ignition module in a garage are covered in this article.

How to check and identify faults in the ignition coil of a Niva Chevrolet

Let’s try to figure out how to diagnose and identify faults further:

First of all, you need to disconnect the battery, then remove the plastic casing of the power device from under the hood of the car.
Having previously studied the order of the wires (if necessary), we turn off the high-voltage ones, disconnecting them from the spark plugs.
To fully perform the diagnostics, you will need a multimeter (first we measure the resistance of the secondary winding); To do this, the device is connected to high-voltage wires. If the indicators exceed the permissible standards, the coil must be replaced.
In a similar way, you can check the resistance of the primary winding. The readings should be around 1-2 ohms. When the indicators differ, the coil can be replaced.

When the need arises to change the ignition coil, it is not necessary to immediately go to a service station and pay money for it. You can do this kind of work yourself in your garage without spending too much time on it.

Disconnect the battery and remove the protection from the motor.
Having disconnected the high-voltage wires and the block from the output of the coil itself, we unscrew the fixing nuts and dismantle the mechanism.
Next, you should pay attention to the brand of the reel. When buying a new one, you need to buy a similar brand.
For more convenient installation, you can try removing the holder, which is secured with three screws. The entire installation procedure is performed in reverse order.

You can also view the procedure for connecting and replacing the coil on the Internet. Many videos allow you to figure out this work yourself and do it yourself.

Design and principle of operation of the ignition module

Some old-school motorists call the modules double-spark coils, which makes sense. After all, the coil is the predecessor of the ignition module in the technical evolutionary chain. The module is a paired design consisting of two pairs of windings (primary and secondary) and a switch that alternately switches low-voltage current from one coil to another. In some models of double-spark coils, the commutator is structurally located outside the block .

The operation of the module is controlled from an electronic unit that collects and analyzes information from various working components of the engine. The block, unlike the classic coil, has 4 sockets for connecting high voltage wires going to the spark plugs. The pulse occurs in pairs, first at terminals 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. That is, each of the built-in coils is responsible for the operation of two cylinders. A spark occurs simultaneously, as a pair.

This is what one of the ignition module models looks like. The connector for connecting incoming wires is visible at the top.

At the input, the ignition module has a connector with four terminals. Usually most models have markings opposite them. Pulses from the Hall sensor alternately arrive at contacts A and B, serving as a signal to switch the commutator from one primary winding to another. C and D – ground and power supply (12 V), respectively.

Operating principles of the ignition module on a Niva Chevrolet

The ignition module in modern cars is responsible for generating high voltage pulses. Like all vehicle components, these devices are prone to failure and may require repair or replacement of the device. Before you begin these steps, you need to accurately diagnose the problem.

The ignition module structurally consists of two coils, in which the current is alternately redirected from one to the other. The electronic control unit system is responsible for the operation of the module. In addition, the ECU is responsible for collecting and analyzing data from its operation.

The pulse generated by the Niva Chevrolet ignition module comes out of four sockets, to each of which high-voltage wires are connected to transmit current to the spark plugs.

The pulses are generated in pairs, providing current simultaneously to the 1st and 4th terminals, then to the 2nd and 3rd. This is done specifically to match the specific cylinder operation.

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Possible causes of failure

The weak point of the ignition coils and modules is the secondary winding, which generates a high voltage pulse. A coil break or breakdown may occur in it. The following factors lead to this phenomenon:

use of low-quality or unsuitable candles;
operation with non-functioning high voltage wires;
frequent attempts to check the spark.

The high-voltage pulse arising in the secondary winding must be realized (spent). If this does not happen (if the integrity of a high voltage wire is broken, for example), a high-energy electrical pulse seeks an outlet. He will find it, with a high degree of probability, in the thin secondary winding.

Often, a module malfunction occurs when the integrity of poor-quality factory soldering of wires going to the switch elements is violated. This happens from vibration. Also, the cause of non-working coils can be a banal contact failure in the incoming connector. Another factor leading to a malfunction of the ignition unit is often moisture that gets on the device during washing or driving in unusual conditions.

Symptoms of a problem

It is extremely rare for two built-in coils to fail at once, so it is more likely to be possible to start the engine with a faulty unit. However, even an inexperienced driver will immediately suspect something is wrong. The malfunction will appear as follows:

unstable (floating) idle speed;
the engine has difficulty picking up speed;
characteristic sound of the engine (triple);
jerking when accelerating (while moving).

Operating a car with such a breakdown is possible (you can drive to a garage or car service station), but it is not advisable unless absolutely necessary.

Similar signs of unstable engine operation are possible with a number of other ignition or fuel supply faults. To differentiate possible breakdowns, the performance of the ignition unit should be determined. It would be useful to check the contacts of the wires coming to the device, as well as their integrity.

Symptoms of a faulty ignition coil

Signs of a malfunction of the ignition coil are that the engine periodically “trips” (triggering is especially important in rainy weather, and when starting the engine “in cold weather”), “failures” occur when accelerating the car, when visually inspecting the coil, “paths” of electrical breakdown are observed, burning of contacts, signs of thermal overheating, the presence of a large amount of dirt and debris in the coil body and other, smaller faults. The most common cause of coil malfunction is a break in its primary or secondary windings. In some cases, their insulation is simply damaged. At the initial stage, the coil will work more or less normally, but over time the problems will worsen and the symptoms described above will appear to a greater extent.

There are several typical signs of an ignition coil breakdown. It’s worth mentioning right away that the malfunctions listed below can be caused by other reasons, so diagnostics should still be carried out comprehensively, including checking the condition of the ignition coils. Thus, symptoms of breakdown can be divided into two types - behavioral and visual. Behavioral ones include:

The engine begins to "trouble". And over time, the situation gets worse, that is, the “tweaking” is expressed more and more clearly, the power and dynamics of the engine are lost.
When trying to accelerate quickly, a “failure” occurs, and when idling, the engine speed does not increase sharply. There is also a loss of power under load (when transporting heavy loads, driving uphill, and so on).
“Tripping” of the engine more often occurs in rainy (humid) weather and when starting the engine “cold” (especially typical for low ambient temperatures).
In some cases (on older cars), the smell of unburned gasoline may appear in the cabin. On newer cars, a similar situation may occur when, instead of more or less clean exhaust gases, the smell of unburned gasoline is added to them.

When dismantling the ignition coil if it malfunctions, you can observe visual signs that it has completely or partially failed. So, these include:

The presence of “breakdown tracks” on the coil body. That is, characteristic dark stripes along which electricity “strikes”. In some particularly “neglected” cases, scale occurs on the tracks.
Change (turbidity, blackening) in the color of the dielectric on the ignition coil body.
Darkening of electrical contacts and connectors resulting from their burning.
Traces of overheating on the coil body. Usually they are expressed in some kind of “drips” or changes in the geometry of the body in some places. In “severe” cases, they may have a burning smell.
High contamination on the coil body. Especially near electrical contacts. The fact is that electrical breakdown can occur precisely on the surface of dust or dirt. Therefore, it is advisable to prevent such a state.

The main sign of a coil malfunction is the lack of ignition of the fuel mixture. However, this situation does not always arise, since in certain cases part of the electrical energy still goes to the candle, and not just to the body. In this case, it is necessary to conduct additional diagnostics.

Well, on modern cars, in the event of a breakdown of the ignition coil, the electronic engine control unit (ECU) will notify the driver about this by activating the Check Engine lamp on the dashboard (and a misfire diagnostic code). However, it can also light up due to other faults, so this requires additional diagnostics using software and hardware.

The symptoms of malfunction described above are relevant if the engine has individual ignition coils. If the design provides for the installation of one coil, common to all cylinders, then the engine will stall completely (this, in fact, is one of the reasons why several individual modules are installed on modern cars).

Checking module power

Before testing the performance of the coils, you should make sure that a possible breakdown is not caused by a loss of power to the device . First, you need to try to simply restore contact by moving it several times or disconnecting/connecting the block of wires included in the connector. If such manipulation does not lead to improved engine performance, a tester (multimeter) is used to determine the quality of incoming pulses.

The block of wires is removed from the connector. On the block, each terminal (A, B, C, D) has a corresponding socket. Testing with the engine running is done as follows.

The first contact of the tester is in socket D, the second is to ground. The multimeter switch position is 20 volts. If there is power, the tester shows 12 volts.
The first contact is in socket C, the second is ground. Switch on ohmmeter (20 Ohm). Normally it shows less than 1 ohm, that is, the mass is normal.
The first contact is in socket B, the second is ground. 20 volt switch. The norm is not less than 0.3 volts. If this is so, it means that a normal pulse is coming from the Hall sensor to position B.
Contact A is checked similarly to the previous one.

If such a check shows the norm, you need to test the module. If not, look for the cause in the electrical circuit to the coil.

Methods for diagnosing device performance

The simplest method that will help determine the performance of the coil is to replace it with a similar working device. This is possible if there is somewhere to get it. Please note that the module must match the parameters of the device under test . If the engine with a working coil works as before the breakdown, the ignition module is definitely faulty.

The main testing method involves using a multimeter. It consists in determining the resistance of the secondary windings of the coils built into the ignition module. The method is simple and does not require additional skills. The device does not need to be removed for testing. The check is done with the engine turned off.

This is how you check the resistance of the secondary winding with a multimeter

High-voltage wires are removed from the module sockets.
The tester switch is set to the 20 kOhm position.
The multimeter rods are placed in turn in the recesses of the corresponding contact pairs (1 and 4, 2 and 3).
With an intact secondary winding, the performance in both cases is the same. Normally, the resistance should be about 5.4 kOhm (in some models the indicators differ, which needs to be clarified). If the resistance is much greater, then there is a winding break. The resistance is much lower - a breakdown. The coil is faulty and cannot be repaired.

Fines for crossing the stop line and speeding will no longer bother you!

Video: How to check the secondary winding with a multimeter

Characteristics and installation of ignition God's spark instead of module 2112 in the Chevrolet Niva (VAZ 2123)

Ignition of "God's spark"

What is Iskra ignition? This is an analogue of the ignition module 2112-3705010.

The main reason for its failure is vibration and poor cooling. These shortcomings are partially compensated for by transferring the motor protection from the engine to the body, but this is only a half-measure. A complete solution to the problem is the use of Iskra switch ignition.

Functional description of Iskra:

replaces the unreliable 2112-3705010 with an assembly of 2 switches and an ignition coil 2111-3705010. works only under the control of January 5.1 and other ECUs that do not contain power switches for controlling the ignition coils. Doesn't work with January 7.2 and its analogues! is not afraid of heat and vibrations, because

The switches are located away from the motor (on the engine shield or elsewhere on the body), and the switches themselves do not have unreliable aluminum soldering. Allows you to obtain a powerful and stable ignition system, which is especially important in turbocharged engines, where interruptions in the standard ignition system often occur when the boost is above 1.5 Atm.

It is also used with no less benefit on naturally aspirated engines.

In the event of a failure, repair comes down to purchasing an inexpensive switch (approximate price 350 rubles) and its simple modification.

In the case of using 2112-3705010, each failure of it leads to a waste of money of the order of 1700-2500 rubles.

Appearance of the ignition coil 2111-3705010 used with Iskra:

A special word about the notorious “volgo-reels”.

In short, their use in our time is ignorance and “money down the drain.” In more detail, the quality of GAZ parts is the lowest that is available from production waste on the market. All tests of GAZ coils, carried out in different years and by different people, clearly show the lowest parameters for these coils.

Moreover, why mount 2 separate coils, instead of one compact coil?

2. What is a bolt-on Spark kit?

The spark cord has the same connector as in 2112-3705010! This is truly a unique offer, because... Such connectors are not available separately and are specially made for Iskra.

No intervention is required in the car's wiring to install Iskra. It connects like a standard 2112-3705010!

3. What are the features of installing the Spark kit? Switches must be “grounded”, i.e. have a connection between its aluminum body and the ground of the machine with a wire with a cross-section of at least 0.75 sq. mm. The connection must be made before turning on the ignition for the first time. Without connections, switches can fail immediately.

Appearance of "Iskra":

Installation of ignition God's spark instead of module 2112 in Chevrolet Niva Old 2112

The module failed once, the new one also acted up once. He didn’t wait until he died and began to look for a solution. It turned out that this was one of the problems with cars before 2006, the ignition module fails. I decided to order it with an additional converted switch, although if I understood correctly, it’s not difficult to modify it yourself.

Wiring, 3 switches 2250 rub. Ignition coil 1350 rub.

A platform for a reel with additional mass (just in case). The new coil is mounted with 4 bolts, versus the standard 3.

We attach the commutators to the brake reservoir bolt.

We remove the coil away from the engine. I installed it under the rear air filter mount. View from the left wing.

View from the engine side.

We connect the wires and start it. Works smoothly. From subjective observations, it starts better. Usually it would start from the first turn and then stall immediately. From the second it started and ran smoothly. With the new ignition it starts on the first turn. In terms of consumption, there is about the same amount left. We'll see about reliability, but the standard module is in the trunk. Throw the wires onto it if it takes a couple of minutes.

Replacement of the engine cooling pump for Chevrolet Niva (VAZ 2123)

Something started making noise, or rather, it started making noise about a month ago. But the sound appeared and disappeared, but here there was a constant noise.

Main types of faults.

Often the cause of problems with the Niva Chevrolet ignition module are breaks in the second winding, because it is this that generates the high voltage pulse. This mainly happens due to the fault of car owners:

in case of untimely replacement of failed high-voltage wires
installing spark plugs that do not match the car model.
moisture ingress due to improper washing

Also, the cause of burnout may be delamination of the solder due to increased vibration during frequent use of the engine at high speeds or during frequent temperature exposure - engine overheating.

Also, if the integrity of the winding of high-voltage wires is violated, extinguishing occurs due to the secondary winding. The charge finds the nearest exit point and enters the place where the wires are thinnest, leading to their destruction.

Problems with the ignition module can be determined in advance, since two coils do not fail at the same time, so car owners will still have the engine start, but with some difficulties:

it takes a long time to gain working momentum
floating idle speed
excessive engine vibration
jerking while driving

But these problems may be associated not only with the ignition module, so before replacing it is recommended to check its condition

Main causes of malfunctions.

Mostly, malfunctions occur due to damage to the winding. Since high voltage current is generated in it, over time, when using low-quality materials, damage to the wire sheath, breakage or rupture of turns may occur. This can happen for several reasons:

Use of faulty high-voltage wires.
Spark plugs that do not match the vehicle parameters are used.
Solder failure due to high motor vibration
Moisture getting inside the case
Condensation Formation

So, for example, if there is damage in the armor wires, then the coil impulse is not fully used, and it looks for another output, as a result of which it breaks through the secondary winding, where the wire cross-section is lower.

This problem manifests itself gradually, since the coils begin to fail gradually and one of them will continue to work for some time. Therefore, if the following symptoms appear, you must immediately check the functionality of the module:

the engine has difficulty gaining operating speed
floating idle
the engine is running rough - there is no spark in one of the cylinders
jerking while driving

These reasons may be associated with other breakdowns, but when conducting diagnostics, one should not forget about the Niva Chevrolet ignition module. If you suspect the functionality of a component, you must check the device. Diagnostics begins with checking the power contacts. They may be oxidized or the wiring may be broken. If this does not bring results, then you need to dismantle it to check it using additional instruments.

Check procedure

First you need to check all the contacts, both those suitable for the block and the high-voltage wires going to the spark plugs. To do this, simply disconnect the wires several times and reconnect them. If this does not bring positive results, you need to move on to the next steps.

To do this, they usually use a multimeter connected to contacts D and the second one connected to ground. The device itself is switched to 20 volt mode. In this case, the readings on it should be 12 volts. Then, using the same scheme, check contact C in ohmmeter mode. The reading should be less than 1 ohm.

Contacts A and B are checked in voltmeter mode. Their readings should not exceed 0.3 Volts. If at least one of these indicators is outside the normal range, you need to look for problems in the coil.

If you find damage to the soldering of the contacts, you can try to fix them yourself using a soldering iron. If the coil is damaged, the ignition module must be replaced.

How to check a module

A high-quality and complete check of the coil is performed with a multimeter. Typically the procedure looks like this.

Before removing the device, you should check all contacts for oxidation and damage. In some cases, such manipulation prevents unnecessary repairs.
The subsequent check is performed only on the removed device. All wires are disconnected from the module and the box is removed.
Next, you will need to ring the power terminals with a multimeter. The device is switched to mode up to 20 volts. The negative continuity terminal is connected to ground. The positive pole is against terminal D. If the element is working, the device will read 12 volts.
Next, switch the device to resistance and connect it to terminal C. The device reading should not exceed 1 Ohm.
At terminals A and B, the voltage should not exceed 0.3 Volts.

On 2004 Shniva models, which use 8 valves and classic ignition, the testing scheme will be different.

Due to the modular design, the device is extremely problematic to restore. Low work efficiency also becomes a problem. The damaged element is replaced completely.

If the installed part fails, depressurization of the housing can cause moisture to get inside.

It is not recommended to repair outdated ignition coils. The device is filled with an insulating compound similar to epoxy resin.