When releasing the clutch smoothly the car jerks

When starting off, I release the clutch halfway, add gas, the car starts to accelerate smoothly, release the clutch all the way and add gas, the car jerks several times, then it continues to drive normally. When switching to 2-3-4-5 everything is smooth.

On a cold car this effect does not exist at all; it appears after driving fast or pushing in traffic jams.

Filters, spark plugs, wires, etc. Replaced it, the engine runs smoothly, the clutch has been bled.

Do these symptoms fit the diagnosis of a dying clutch?

How else can you make a diagnosis without an autopsy?

What else could it be?

Should I break into service or drive around until the problem comes out clearly?

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Jerks when starting smoothly

Good afternoon Incomprehensible clutch operation. After replacing the disc/basket/release/flywheel set, a problem appeared with jerking when smoothly releasing the clutch pedal (1500 rpm, I calmly released the clutch halfway until the flywheel/disc started to engage, but did not release completely). If you let it idle and very smoothly, then everything is ok. If you give a little more revolutions than usual and quickly release the clutch (for example, 2500 revolutions and quickly and evenly release the pedal), then everything is ok. It feels like the jerking is caused by vibration of the disc in contact with the flywheel. At the same time, it seems to me that the flywheel either slips or clings to the disk. I suspect that I was deceived and supplied with a used (or burnt) flywheel. Otherwise, there are no complaints; it can easily handle loads during a quick start. When switching from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3, etc. There are no unusual vibrations. Z.Y. During active driving, apparently when the clutch warms up, the unpleasant features disappear.

Who thinks about this?

In Pleiades I exchanged for Enthusiasts: Exedy FJD031 - disk; Exedy FJC 530 - basket; SACHS 3151 600 563 - release; flywheel is original (according to Pleiades).

Last edited by zero throttle; 02.09.2014 at 13:26.

Perhaps the flywheel was worn out under the old disc in the same way! crookedly,” but now the disc is straight, so it’s “troubled.”

That's what I suspect. But the flywheel was “changed”. How to prove that it's a scam?

On cars with a manual transmission, problems with the clutch system periodically occur. Necessary repairs have to be made. But after replacing the clutch, the car jerks, or some new defects appear that were not there before the repair (vibration, noise, whistling, knocking appeared). Let's try to talk about all sorts of problems after replacing the clutch and the reasons for the appearance of defects. Let's immediately note that we will talk about passenger cars.

Diagnostics of the engine fuel system

The engine fuel system is a very complex mechanism, consisting of several independent compartments that function harmoniously and a breakdown in one segment entails movement disturbances.

The “symptoms” of problems in this system are as follows:

The vehicle jerks after quickly pressing the accelerator. The engine starts slowly and the vehicle moves jerkily. There are, of course, cases that while driving, the engine’s operation “levels out” and the car begins to move smoothly, but this is temporary - after each stop the situation will be repeated until a more serious breakdown occurs.
Also, a malfunction may appear completely unexpectedly. The car may start to jerk when driving evenly somewhere in the middle of the journey.

Situations can be varied and chaotic engine operation can manifest itself both with rapid pressure on the accelerator and with careful (normal) movement. Sometimes, the basis for jerky driving is a lack of fuel in the fuel tank. As a rule, this becomes noticeable immediately after starting the engine.

In addition to the lack of fuel, there may be breakdowns in other parts of the power system.

Checking the fuel filter

Even if the driver fills the car with the highest quality fuel, this does not in any way protect against common blockages. The presence of dirt and foreign objects in the engine power system makes it difficult to move or start the engine.

The problem can be solved quickly - you need to periodically clean the filters from any contaminants, and sometimes change them.

As a rule, the 3rd filter installed near the gasoline siphon is the most frequently polluted.
Less commonly, the problem concerns filter 2, located in the middle between the pump and the gas tank.
After cleaning all the filter elements, be sure to wipe the mesh located near the radiator.

Throttle check

Failure of chokes can be caused by both normal contamination and the degree of depreciation of important elements. In the second case, you need the help of a car mechanic, because... It is necessary to dismantle the failed elements with complete disassembly of the carburetor.

If the problem arose due to dirt, then you can solve it yourself; you will need to wipe the entire surface of the throttle with a cotton rag and a cleaning agent.

Checking the fuel pump

If the problem is in the fuel pump, you will need to contact technical service. In mild cases, a jerky ride occurs due to the formation of a compacted bandage near the bolt.

The problem is solved by dismantling the failed shutter and diaphragm.
The main thing is not to forget to seal all gateways and wires through which fuel leakage may occur.
It is also advisable to additionally wipe the mesh installed near the benzosiphon.
For injection engines, fuel pumps should be looked for directly in the tank, because they are electrically driven.

After repairs, be sure to check for fuel leaks in the fuel pump. If everything is fine, then the repair can be considered complete.

Fuel quality

Sometimes the problem is in the fuel itself, especially if the driver notices the car jerking immediately after refueling.

To avoid this problem, it is recommended to use the services of trusted gas stations and strictly adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the type of fuel.
The fact is that fuel differs in octane number and the method of obtaining fuel.
Therefore, it is important to read the instructions for using fuel mixtures.

If the driver realizes that the problem is with the quality of the fuel, then it needs to be quickly drained and refilled with another type of fuel.

Checking the sensors

Since modern vehicles contain a huge amount of electronics, we should not forget about sensors. A standard short circuit can disrupt the ignition process or fuel supply to the engine. Auto electricians solve this problem.

Defects that appeared after replacing the clutch

What does it mean to replace the clutch? This action means changing the driven or driven clutch disc; often both parts are changed at once. In this case, the release bearing must also be replaced. After such an operation, side defects are suddenly revealed that were not there before the repair.

If we think logically, then there are few reasons for the appearance of new malfunctions. Typically this is:

Unqualified repairs;
Defect of new spare parts;
Erroneous diagnostics, as a result of which not all or the wrong parts were replaced, and previously hidden problems manifested themselves in full.

In general, the issue of the appearance of new unpleasant signs is very difficult and is individual in each specific case, but these signs have common characteristic features.

If after replacing the clutch the car jerks

For example, before the repair, the car did not pick up speed well, it was slipping, and the clutch pedal was activated at the very top. All the signs of a worn driven disc were present. After replacing the disk, the car began to jerk. What could happen after the repairs were carried out?

The issue may be a defective part. This is not so rare when it comes to non-original spare parts. In Russian-made cars (VAZ, GAZ, AZLK, IZH), defects also occur in factory parts. That is, the driven disk is simply curved. On the clutch basket (drive disc), the pressure petals may be at different levels, then the release occurs unevenly and the car jerks.
The car may jerk due to clutch adjustment. More precisely, it was not performed after replacing the disk. The linings of the new part are much thicker; in this case, the clutch pedal “takes at the very end”. When starting off, the car moves jerkily, and the gear shifts into gear with a crunch.
The car jerks due to the replacement of not all the parts that needed it. In particular, the cause of jerking is the worn surface of the flywheel under the driven disk. If the flywheel has not been replaced, there may be jerking when driving, and the car may also slip.

Clutch Troubleshooting

If the drive malfunctions, you need to replace its damaged parts: the cable, or, if the clutch release drive is hydraulic, then worn rubber cuffs, springs, hoses, or the master and slave release cylinder assembly.

It is recommended to install the entire master or slave cylinder. Replacing the rubber cuffs will only solve the problem for a short time. After all, the working surface of the liner inside the cylinder is already worn out, and it will only accelerate the wear of the new cuff. After work, be sure to bleed the hydraulic system so that there is no air left in it. Because of it, the clutch release will not work correctly. If the diaphragm spring blades or vibration limiter damper springs break, the entire clutch and basket must be replaced. When installing a new unit, be sure to center the pressure disk.

This is done using a special mandrel or transmission input shaft for that vehicle. The mandrel is inserted into the pressure plate and diaphragm spring, and only then the clutch basket is screwed to the engine flywheel. Then it is tightened well and evenly to prevent the bolts from loosening during operation.

If there is a noise or whistle after replacing the clutch

Many car owners often complain that after replacement, a noise or whistle appears that was not there before. What could be the reasons for the extraneous sound and why does this happen? » alt=»»>

The new release bearing turned out to be of poor quality or does not contain enough factory lubricant. A whistling or noise appears when you press the clutch pedal. Many people mistakenly believe that the bearing makes noise when the clutch is disengaged. But this is even illogical, in this state the part does not bear the load, and accordingly the noise (whistle) in this state is minimal.
The clutch basket has unevenness and roughness at the tips of the pressure petals. Typically, spare parts from Russian manufacturers have such a defect. It should be noted that as the parts are ground in, the whistle that appeared initially disappears. You can temporarily eliminate the noise by lubricating the petals with lithol. But this can be done without disassembly on GAZ cars; on front-wheel drive cars, to perform a similar procedure it is necessary to dismantle the gearbox.
It is possible that before replacing parts, the car owner did not pay attention to extraneous noises such as whistling, as he was expecting repairs. But after replacing the clutch, extraneous sounds remained, which the owner of the car did not expect. Noises are often caused by the gearbox. If, when the clutch is depressed, the unpleasant sound disappears or noticeably subsides, then most likely this indicates wear on the gearbox input shaft bearing.
The driven disc linings have roughness. A rustling noise occurs when changing gears. There is no need to worry too much ahead of time - the new parts will get used to it, and the defect will disappear during the operation of the car quite quickly.
The input shaft bearing in the crankshaft may also make noise. When disassembling the car, you should do an external inspection of the bearing. If it is very dry, it must be lubricated with lithol or other suitable lubricant. It is better to replace a clearly worn part immediately.

Transmission Troubleshooting

The first difficult task is removing the gearbox from the car. Depending on the drive of the vehicle, the work required to remove the transmission varies. Before starting work, be sure to drain the oil from it. On a rear-wheel drive car, first unscrew the cardan, the gearshift lever, and then the gearbox itself is unscrewed from the engine. In the case of a front-wheel drive car, the constant velocity joints are unscrewed and removed, and the shaft connecting the gearshift lever to the gearbox is dismantled. And only then the transmission is unscrewed from the engine and removed.

After disassembling the gearbox, you need to inspect the gears and synchronizers for signs of wear. Damaged and worn parts should be replaced. Upon completion of the work, everything is assembled and installed in its place in the reverse order. Once the gearbox is in place, the ideal option would be to change the oil in it.

If there is a knocking noise after replacing the clutch

As a rule, the cause of knocking after replacing parts is defective parts. In particular, there are dangling damper springs in the driven disk. Therefore, before installing such a spare part on a car, you need to carefully inspect it. Parts of the disk may also be poorly riveted. » alt=»»> Knocks in the clutch area can occur due to a crack in the release bearing bushing (the bushings are often made of plastic). Even at the site where the bushing fits on the flange of the gearbox input shaft, play may form, which also leads to a knocking sound.

Clutch slipping after replacing all its parts

After replacing all elements, adjustment is required, but many car owners ignore this point. The cause is slipping, the car accelerates slowly, the engine speed does not correspond to the speed of the car. The engine just roars, and the car is driving quite slowly, as they say, slipping.

In cars with a mechanical clutch cable, adjustment is made by the cable itself. In hydraulically driven machines, this process is carried out using a clutch rod. In modern cars, you often come across rods that do not have adjustments. But this does not mean at all that it cannot be produced. In such cases, adjustment of the clutch pedal itself is provided, but not everyone knows about this possibility. » alt=»»>

Driving style

You need to start with the obvious things. If you are an experienced driver, then you yourself understand perfectly well that the car can jerk when starting from a stop if the clutch grabs suddenly. That is, if you release the clutch pedal sharply, then it is quite obvious that the car should move jerkily. In this case there is no malfunction, and this situation is quite normal. All you need to do is change your riding style. At a minimum, you need to release the clutch smoothly and add more gas. It will come with time.

In order for the clutch discs to engage on time, you need to “feel” for the moment of engagement in your car. To do this, you need to engage first gear and try to move away without pressing the gas pedal. This way you can easily feel the moment the clutch discs engage.

This cannot happen in cars with automatic transmissions, because there is no clutch pedal. In such cars, you just need to smoothly press the gas pedal and not “rip” the car from its place.

Vibration that occurs after replacing clutch elements

There are few reasons why vibration occurs after replacing a clutch. Vibration usually appears in two forms:

The pressure plate (clutch basket) is not balanced;
During assembly, the driveshaft was installed in a different position from the original installation (but this only applies to rear-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicles).

By and large, on cars with front-wheel drive, you can inaccurately secure the wheel drive (CV joint), and the movement of the car will be accompanied by vibration and knocking, but this does not happen often.

If the clutch basket creates vibration, you can try moving it to a different position. As a rule, the pressure plate mounts are symmetrical. On many models, the basket is attached to the flywheel with six bolts, and the basket can be placed in three positions. In one position the vibration may disappear completely or be minimal. But it is better to exchange the warranty part immediately for another one. This will be less hassle for the car owner.