After replacing the clutch, gears do not engage: reasons

Owners of cars with a manual transmission often encounter the problem of shifting gears, namely, after starting the internal combustion engine, one or more gears may not engage or engage, but with great effort. Also, when turning on the speeds, extraneous noise, vibrations, etc. may appear.

The problem may appear suddenly or progress gradually. Difficulties when switching gears can occur both on a “cold” and on a “warm” gearbox. In this case, the speed with the engine turned off will be switched on without much effort.

Next, we will look at why such malfunctions and failures occur, for what reason the gears do not engage when the engine is running, after replacing the clutch, first gear does not engage well, etc.

After replacing the clutch, gears do not engage: reasons

if the pedal is pressed at speed, it doesn’t move, you gently release it and it goes.
Added after 2 minutes 41 seconds:

yes, I’m trying now, I write messages during smoke breaks) So far there is no result, the 4th speed has become difficult to engage. the rest doesn't turn on!

Added after 18 minutes 20 seconds:

We adjusted that 3,4,5 turns on quite hard. 1,2 are not included. The disk was installed correctly 99%. What else could it be?

yes, I’m trying now, I write messages during smoke breaks) So far there is no result, the 4th speed has become difficult to engage. the rest doesn't turn on!

Added after 18 minutes 20 seconds:

We adjusted that 3,4,5 turns on quite hard. 1,2 are not included. The disk was installed correctly 99%. What else could it be?

Well, then it could be: 1. The clutch was assembled crookedly and made of “shit”. 2. The transmission gear selection is crooked and not adjusted in any way. 3. Broken clutch fork. 4. The clutch drive is not CORRECTLY adjusted (that is, the cable). 5. Heavenly punishment.

Here's the question: did you do it yourself, or at the station? It’s just that if they are at the station, then there is a reason to spoil their brains. If you do it yourself. then why did you go there?

I would vote for adjusting the gear selector rod. How to adjust: you disconnect it at the bottom, stick it on the rear box with pliers from below, snap the lever in the cabin onto the rear one, and combine it under the car.

What sounds are there from under the gearbox and clutch? Or is it just stupid not to stick the gear in? And all the same, where is such confidence that the driven disk was not turned over then? Clutch pedal position in studio. How does the clutch fork move on the box, and does it move at all? There are no miracles, we changed 3 parts and the machine stopped working. Maybe the basket was bent into a hollow, or maybe it was not from the same car that was installed.

I almost forgot: 6. The input shaft didn’t hit the flywheel

yes, I’m trying now, I write messages during smoke breaks) So far there is no result, the 4th speed has become difficult to engage. the rest doesn't turn on!

Added after 18 minutes 20 seconds:

We adjusted that 3,4,5 turns on quite hard. 1,2 are not included. The disk was installed correctly 99%. What else could it be?

I almost forgot: 6. The input shaft didn’t hit the flywheel

In order: In general, they didn’t climb into the box at all, they changed the disk, basket and release lever, they did this when they overhauled the engine, that is, they removed the engine, installed the disk correctly, in the flywheel papoli, there was a device for this. We did it ourselves. We worked on the engine, as I wrote above, and replaced the clutch in one go; it was a little burnt. There are no sounds. It has become a little better to turn on, now all speeds are turned on, but the rear one wheezes when you stick it in, the first and second ones are a little hard to stick in. All this time the car is running at idle during the run-in. 3 hours with breaks to cool down. The clutch pedal is in line with the brake. You can’t raise it higher, it’s resting, the adjustment is turned all the way down. The fork in the box moves. There are also suggestions that the link was bent when they jacked up the box to remove the engine.

How to save your clutch

In order for the clutch to last as long as possible, you must adhere to the following rules: at traffic lights and in traffic jams, turn off the speed and take your foot off the clutch pedal, when making shifts, release the gas pedal, do not move away abruptly, when the car is coasting, put the variable gear lever in neutral position and remove your foot from the clutch pedal, try not to use the car off-road or as a tow vehicle.

If you neglect these rules, then replacing the driven disc, and possibly the entire clutch, may be required much earlier. To check the wear of the driven disk, it is necessary to sharply press the accelerator in direct gear. If the engine “roars”, and the car is reluctant to accelerate, and a specific burning smell is felt, then this is the first sign that it is time to think about replacing the driven disk. Typically, once a clutch is burned, it will wear out completely within a couple of weeks.

Breakdowns due to clutch replacement

The clutch is designed to transmit the torque of the internal combustion engine to the transmission. This mechanism also opens the transmission and engine to change speed. If switching speed when the engine is running becomes impossible, then most likely the problem lies in incorrect replacement of this unit.

Brake fluid leak

In many car models, brake fluid acts as a working fluid for the clutch. Very often, after replacing the clutch, first gear does not engage well, and the problem may lie in the insufficient amount of fluid poured into the hydraulic drive system. In such cases, the transmission is not only difficult to engage, it may not work at all. Therefore, first of all, it is worth looking at how much brake fluid is filled. If it is not enough, then you need to check the tank for leaks and remove all faults. After this, the clutch must be bled. The pumping technique is quite simple. You need to connect the hose and fitting, and then press the pedal and drain the liquid so that all the air comes out.

Release bearing problems

The reason why the gear is difficult to engage is most often due to damage to the clutch basket. Sometimes the reason lies in the release bearing. If the bearing moves on the input shaft with difficulty, this part must be replaced.

It is also worth adding that a marker of a faulty release bearing is rustling and humming noises when the car is running. The noise occurs when the pedal is pressed to the floor. This sound appears both in a warm car and in a cold one. After the driver releases the pedal, the noise should disappear.

Engine Chery Amulet / Chery Qiyun. Manual transmission Chery Amulet

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Problems with engaging first gear and troubleshooting methods

Below is a list of breakdowns that can cause the gear lever to shift gears poorly:

Operating principle of gearbox synchronizers

New synchronizer for the gearbox You can find out how to do this below: Replacing gearbox elements is carried out in several stages. We will not describe them in detail, since all actions are individual for each individual car. Moreover, if you have never encountered such a procedure, you are unlikely to be able to perform it yourself: Recommendations on what to do if it is impossible to engage first gear were given by a Ukrainian driving instructor.

What to pay attention to

There are certain signs that the clutch on the Lada Grant has failed and action needs to be taken

It is worth paying attention that if the car has just been purchased, the pedal will be pressed quite easily. If this requires great effort, then this is the first indication that the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced.

It is also worth paying attention to the appearance of extraneous squeaks at the moment when the driver presses the pedal. In addition, it should not twitch when the car owner does not touch it.

Most often, car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that the pedal travel becomes too tight. It is worth considering in more detail the reasons for this problem.

I'm asking for advice about the clutch (the gears won't engage) - GAZ Volga Community on DRIVE2

Good time everyone. It turned out that yesterday I had to drive about 10 seconds in first gear before the cutoff (I think that this is the root of the problem). The following happened: getting ready to go to work in the morning, I got into the car, took it out of gear, started it, and began to reverse. The rear one didn’t want to stick into anything. Same problem with first and second gear. Third, fourth and fifth gears shift perfectly, as always. By some miracle, I was able to get to work, forcibly sticking the gears into gear, at lunch I was able to go to the store, but after work the gears finally stopped turning on. I noticed that with the engine off they turn on, as they always did, no force needed to be applied. I tried to put it in gear and start it by squeezing the clutch, but when ignited, the car immediately began to move off, after which it stalled. I tried to press the clutch + gear + brake = the car immediately stalled, and the clock on the radio was reset. Bottom line: I was driving home by bus :(I tried double squeezing and re-engaging! Previously, I had a problem with gears that were hard to engage, mainly 1 and 2, double squeezing helped. Then this problem disappeared by itself, except perhaps if I didn’t push it in all the way 3rd and 4th gears, then it was knocked out. Everything was fine until this moment. I don’t understand anything about gearboxes, so I’m asking for advice on what to change. After quickly studying the search in forums and books, I concluded that there may be a problem with the clutch disc. Really Is it possible to change it according to the instructions, if I have never changed it and have not climbed into it? Will I definitely have to drive the car onto a lift and pull out the box?

Sorry for the long text)

iMarker › Blog › Symptoms of a faulty clutch

When the vehicle is used intensively, various clutch malfunctions may occur. There are malfunctions of the clutch itself and malfunctions of the clutch drive. Clutch malfunctions include:

wear and damage to the driven disk linings; deformation of the driven disk; oiling of the driven disk linings; wear of the splines of the driven disk; wear or breakage of damper springs; broken or weakened diaphragm spring; wear or breakage of the clutch release bearing; flywheel surface wear; wear of the pressure plate surface; jamming of the clutch release fork.

Depending on the type, the clutch drive may have the following malfunctions:

a) mechanical drive

jamming, elongation or damage to the cable; damage to the lever system; b) hydraulic drive

clogging of the hydraulic drive; violation of the tightness of the system (leakage of working fluid, presence of air in the system); malfunction of the working cylinder (damage to the cuff).

Wear and breakdown of clutch structural elements occur mainly due to violation of vehicle operating rules: starting at high speeds, foot on the clutch pedal while driving.

One of the reasons for breakdown or wear may be the limiting service life of the clutch elements. This applies to a greater extent to the clutch driven disc, which has a limited resource. If the operating rules are followed, this element will serve regularly for over 100 thousand kilometers. For “racers” the clutch rarely lasts up to 50 thousand km.

The cause of clutch failure can also be poor quality components. When purchasing spare parts, preference should be given to original parts.

Why are gears shifting poorly?

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And finally, the third is excessive wear of the gearbox synchronizers. There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears shift poorly: For those who do not know what double clutch is.

To shift to a higher gear: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage the gear. Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for unclear gear shifting. If gears shift poorly when the car is standing still with the engine off, the fault may only be in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox.

Look for damage or check that it is adjusted correctly.

Don't even think about the clutch and synchronizers. If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your automatic transmission can operate: A faulty automatic transmission is much more complicated than those encountered with a manual transmission, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are slim.

But despite this, you still need to know something about it, if only in order not to harm it through improper use. The oil level in the machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

Select a flat horizontal area for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake. If the level is insufficient, you can add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted.

Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so add only clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth from which the threads do not fall out.

The car does not move forward or reverse normally. Possible reasons: wear of the forward clutch clutches, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
There is no reverse speed, forward there are only 1 and 2. Probable causes: wear of the reverse clutch clutches, a malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline joint in the drum body, another defect of this drum.
There is no rear, everything works forward. Reasons: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
There is no movement either forward or backward when you turn on any mode, there is a shift push, but the car stands still. Causes: torque converter malfunction, lack of oil, clogged filter.
Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are engaged. Reasons: valve jamming in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and clutch clutches that do not engage.

How to properly adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2114

Modern domestically produced cars have moved away from the classics. Standard clutch adjustment of the VAZ 2114 and other vehicles of the family is performed by tightening the cable rather than by adjusting the hydraulic mechanism, which increases the reliability of the unit.

This mechanism requires periodic adjustment - the steel cable tends to stretch under load, which disrupts the original characteristics.

The drive must be tightened in such cases.

Violation of the accuracy of gear shifting - squeaks, crackles or other extraneous sounds emanating during manipulations with the gearbox.
There is a dissonance between the increase in engine speed and the acceleration of the car. This is a clear sign that the clutch disc is slipping under load. A secondary symptom is a burning smell after sudden acceleration or dynamic acceleration.
The pedal fails or spontaneously rises or falls relative to the reference value.
The clutch engages early or late, which leads to the car jerking while shifting into gear.

Instructions for adjusting the clutch with your own hands on a VAZ 2114

Phillips screwdriver or No. 8 head;
set of open-end wrenches for 13 and 17;
WD 40 or similar product;
ruler/construction tape measure/other measuring instrument.

The principle of adjustment is to tighten the cable drive. There are no hydraulics or complex mechanics here - everything is changed and repaired literally “on the knee”. You can see how this is done in the video:

How to adjust the clutch cable

To properly tighten the cable, it is necessary to carry out this procedure.

Drive the car onto a level surface and put the handbrake on.
For safety's sake, disconnect the terminals from the battery.
In the cabin, near the corresponding pedal, place a ruler parallel to its movement. Ideally, the lever pad should be within 13 cm. An error of up to 5 mm is allowed. In case of large deviation, adjustment is required.

The hood opens. There is an air filter near the battery. You can remove it by releasing the air duct clamp (with a screwdriver or a No. 8 socket).

Under the dismantled can you need to find the clutch cable itself. The part is located near the gearbox housing. There is a tensioner lock on it (it looks like several nuts threaded onto the casing and pressing the mounting plate on both sides).

Use wrench No. 17 to loosen the locknuts. If necessary, you can treat the mount with WD-40 or its equivalent. Then, using a 13mm horn, loosen the thrust nuts (1 and 2). Next, the tension of the shirt is adjusted. Nuts No. 1, 2 rotate counterclockwise. Thus, the pedal settles closer to the floor; to raise the lever, you need to do the opposite.

After calibration, the mechanism is assembled in the reverse order. Next, you need to press the corresponding pedal 5-6 times all the way and repeat the procedure with the ruler. If there is no position failure, everything is fine.

Adjusting the clutch pedal free play

Adjusting the free play of the clutch pedal correctly is an important measure to prevent wear of the release bearing and unforeseen situations on the road.

The pedal position is set using the same clutch cable. It is considered ideal when the mechanism operates in the middle of the lever stroke. If engagement is observed closer to the floor, it is necessary to tighten the cable.

Correct clutch setting

An important factor in correct tuning is the safe, correct operation of the mechanism. You can check the accuracy of the calibrations in this way.

Put the car on the handbrake.
Start the engine in neutral gear.
Turn on the first one and try to move off without removing the car from the handbrake. If the internal combustion engine jerks and stalls, everything is done correctly. If the movement does not start, but the engine is running, the clutch disc slips, you need to loosen the cable tension.

You also need to drive the car, sequentially engaging all gears. During manipulations, the presence of extraneous sounds, vibrations or dissonance between the set of engine speeds and the acceleration of the machine is strictly unacceptable.

How to adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2114 after replacement

After installing a new drive, it must be additionally calibrated. The fact is that the new cable tends to stretch to normal working length. Therefore, experienced mechanics recommend checking the stretching of the line after 400-500 km of the car. This is justified by the fact that even in the case of ideal initial calibration, it will be necessary to remove shrinkage of new spare parts.

Troubleshooting methods

Once the source of the problem has been found, you can begin to eliminate the causes of the malfunction.

If the problem is in the engine

The simplest cause of problems when shifting gears can be a leak of brake fluid, which is the working fluid for the clutch. If there is insufficient lubrication in the clutch hydraulic system, it will not engage fully. Therefore, first check the fluid level in the car's tank. If the level is low, check for leaks, repair defects and bleed the clutch. When the fluid level is at the normal level, the clutch elements should be inspected.

Clutch problems

The clutch consists of three main components:

disk;
release bearing;
baskets (pressure disk).

Malfunctions of these units can lead to problems with gear shifting when the engine is running.

The fact that the bearing is failing may be indicated by the appearance of a rustling or distinct hum when the engine is running and the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor. When you release the pedal, the noise should stop. When the bearing completely jams, it will no longer be possible to operate the gear shift mechanism. In this case, the unit will need to be replaced.

A faulty basket can also cause the problem. This often results from critical wear of the petals. In this case, the basket stops performing its functions when heated, and it is not possible to completely remove the pressure disk. Therefore, after removing the box, it is necessary to carefully inspect the basket for deformations and other defects. If the condition of the unit is not satisfactory, it should be replaced with a new one.

Finally, the last reason for problematic gear shifting associated with the clutch is wear or deformation of the disc and the friction linings on it.

Important! After the failed elements are replaced, during assembly you should center the box and also bleed the clutch

The problem is at the checkpoint

The most common cause of a gearbox malfunction is wear of the synchronizers. You may have previously been warned about this by a characteristic crunch when changing gears. Synchronizers that smooth out the angular speeds of the shafts are usually made of copper and are therefore subject to wear.

Much less often, the gearbox shafts themselves can fail. In this case, a separate transmission may not be included. The degree of wear and the need for replacement is also determined after dismantling and disassembling the transmission.

Important! To eliminate faults that have arisen in the box, a major overhaul may be required, which is not cheap and does not happen quickly. Therefore, you need to be prepared for the fact that your car will be delayed in service

However, you should not immediately think about the bad. Sometimes a problem with gear shifting can be caused by a lack of oil in the gearbox. Loud noise while driving or a metallic grinding sound in the box may indicate insufficient oil level. If there is a complete lack of oil, you will not be able to change gears at all: the synchronizers will not function properly. Changing the gearbox oil is recommended every 60-80 kilometers.

In addition to checking the oil level in the gearbox, you will also need to inspect the unit body for damage and the absence of lubricant leaks through the gaskets and seals.

What's the result?

As you can see, if such a problem arose when the owner replaced the clutch and the gears do not engage, it is necessary to determine the cause. First of all, you shouldn’t immediately rush to change the clutch again.

The fact is that there are many reasons why the gears do not turn on or are not turned on completely. In any case, to identify faults, it is first necessary to conduct a complete diagnosis of the gearbox. As part of the checks, it is necessary to separately take into account which clutch elements were changed, whether adjustments were made, adjustments to the rocker, etc.

Types of clutch drive. If the clutch pedal falls, the clutch has become soft, problems have arisen with the clutch: causes and repair of major faults.

How to adjust the clutch pedal, what adjustment is needed for: clutch functions, clutch pedal adjustment (free play and total travel).

Clutch disc: purpose and device. How to replace a clutch disc, replace this element yourself. Recommendations.

Car clutch: purpose, types, design, principle of operation. Frequent clutch malfunctions in the vehicle transmission system, signs of problems.

Clutch master cylinder (MCC): how it works and works. Signs of malfunctions of the clutch hydraulic master cylinder, diagnostics, repair, replacement.

How is the clutch implemented in the transmission device on cars with automatic transmission compared to a manual or robotic transmission. Features and differences.

Source

Problems with switching to automatic transmission

Shifting problems with automatic transmissions are not uncommon. Problems with the automatic machine arise for several reasons.

backstage malfunction. This mechanism is the most problematic in old-type automatic transmissions. To eliminate the malfunction, the unit will need to be replaced. In most cases, it will be necessary to dismantle the gearbox for these purposes;
insufficient oil level. The presence of lubricant leaks on the automatic transmission housing may indicate wear of the sealing gaskets, which are not difficult to replace yourself. After this, you need to change the oil in the box. Also, owners of cars with an automatic transmission are recommended to visually inspect the gearbox for oil leaks at least once every 2000 km;
problems with the transmission control unit can ultimately cause the automatic transmission to completely lock up. To fix the problem, you will need to replace the failed mechanism and thoroughly inspect the electrical part of the gearbox.

Important! To solve problems with automatic transmission, it is recommended to conduct computer diagnostics of transmission faults.

Lack of oil

When the problem lies in a lack of oil, the gears will still engage, and a metallic grinding sound will be felt. When there is not enough lubrication in the box, it is accordingly more difficult to make shifts. The gears simply cannot cling to each other. The same applies to the operation of synchronizers.

It is important that the oil in the box is at a sufficient level and that there are no leaks. If it is necessary to change the oil, it would be better to also replace the seals in the shank. It should be remembered that products from different manufacturers should not be mixed.

Changed the clutch, gears don't engage well

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The basket does not move enough or there are marks on the flywheel and the disc sticks to them. It was necessary to change the kit + the flywheel if there are grooves

Added after 1 minute 19 seconds:

I read it again and it looks like my cart is dead.

There is also my stupidity (although our guys did this, but I could have gone too far), that I fell for it. There was no shaft for centering, so I placed the disc on the basket and grabbed it with a super cray (in three drops, from the sides). I blame this misunderstanding.

A week later, while moving, when starting off, the pedal became like oak (it was pressed tightly and the speed did not turn on)

My basket died like that. The glue will be torn off by the starter if I didn’t pour out the glass

Added after 3 minutes 16 seconds:

everything is very simple on a bald thin disk, the basket worked at half strength, the springs in it worked with light pressure, as soon as you stuck the thick disk in, the springs charged stronger and when squeezing, the difference between the force of their shift became greater, some spring presses harder, some weaker the basket releases the slab is uneven, the disc does not relax

Clutch Wire Adjustment

Car enthusiasts often encounter a problem when the VAZ 2114 clutch slips, what to do in such cases? This type of problem can be successfully resolved on your own, without the involvement of technical service. However, first you need to get a clear idea of what clutch adjustment is in the VAZ 2114 and similar car models. This mechanism is briefly presented in the following diagram.

Adjustment procedure

First of all, we install the vehicle on a flat surface. Having engaged first gear, we try to initiate movement by releasing the clutch of the VAZ 2114 as smoothly as possible. Our main task is to accurately find the pedal position at which the car begins to move.

If the car begins to react only when the pedal is almost sunk to the floor, you will have to carry out a full tune-up. Before adjusting the clutch on a VAZ 2114, you need to open the hood and find two fastening nuts that are responsible for fixing the cable to the bracket. They can be found in the part of the cable on which the thread is applied. Setting the full stroke of the pedal mechanism is quite simple: to reduce it, loosen the nut inside the bracket, and tighten the external one, on the contrary.

Useful tips

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the answers to frequently asked questions about how to adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2115 in the fastest and most reliable way: 1. If rust is found on the fastening nuts during the adjustment process, you can use a special fluid to lubricate the threads - for example, WD-40 or treat the part with engine oil, brake fluid, etc. 2. To make sure that the adjustment was carried out efficiently, we re-test the car, as we have done before. The result is considered satisfactory if the pedal stroke is 125-135 mm. 3. As a more visual example, you can watch one of the many videos on how to adjust the clutch on a VAZ 2114 available on the Internet.

Clutch does not engage after replacing driven disc

Ford Focus II 2005 - 2011

After replacing the driven disc, the clutch stopped disengaging. Everything worked before replacing the disk. Checking all components indicates their serviceability.

7 answers

I placed the disk on the wrong side.

It doesn’t turn off, which means there is no squeezing of the release bearing; on FF2, the bearing and the clutch worker are one unit, which means the clutch is not pumped or is not sealed.

Due to overheating, they may not be able to wring out completely.

Change the cart... You'll have to fork out the cash (There is no way out, since the controls work.

Maybe there's just wear on the flywheel? And the ferido itself does not fit tightly into the seat, because of this, when the clutch is depressed, the disc does not completely move away from the flywheel, but clings with the edges of the disc to the unworn parts of the flywheel. It is necessary to remove the edges on the disk with sandpaper so that it fits tightly to the flywheel. Because of this, the petals on the basket sink deeper, and there is not enough movement to fully spin the basket. You need to remove it carefully, and only the edges that interfere with the flywheel side.

It's not about the company... It's about the flange configuration. The spline should be the same in it so that it can move freely when placed on the shaft spline... The diameter is similar and the thickness of the package/firado...

“If you hear a cracking sound when you engage the gears, and disengagement is difficult, it means that the clutch is not disengaging completely. We bleed the clutch release hydraulic drive. If there is no air in the actuator, the malfunction may be caused by a faulty clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder, or a worn or weakened clutch diaphragm spring.”

Even more useful tips in a convenient format

Synchronizers or clutch?

In the design of a manual transmission, synchronizers are necessary to equalize the rotation speed of the input shaft and the selectable gear mounted on the secondary shaft.

The hub is rigidly connected to the gearbox output shaft, while the helical gear of each gear rotates freely on the shaft. When changing gears, the sliding clutch moves, locking together a pair of hub and helical gear corresponding to the desired gear. Since the speed of rotation of the hub and gear will be different when moving to a higher/lower stage, synchronizers are needed for smooth and silent shifting.

In the design of a synchronized manual transmission, the clutch, when moving, presses the locking ring against the synchronizer cone. Due to the high friction force between the cone and ring, the speed of the output shaft and the helical gear are equalized. The sliding clutch then seamlessly engages the gear with the output shaft hub.

If the synchronizer malfunctions, due to different rotation speeds of the input shaft and gear on the secondary shaft, rigid engagement occurs, accompanied by a characteristic roar/crunch.

You can distinguish a synchronizer malfunction from a clutch failure by the frequency of sounds. If the problem is in the release drive or the clutch basket itself, then the gearbox crunches with every shift. In the case of burnt or worn synchronizers, the sound appears when changing to a specific gear. For example, on front-wheel drive VAZ cars, due to a design flaw in the domestic manual transmission, a characteristic roar most often occurs when switching from 1st to 2nd gear.

It is difficult to engage first gear when the clutch is depressed

help me figure out what's wrong?

The car sat for a very long time, changed clothes and started, but did not make a trip.

Have you checked the oil in the box? If yes, then try rocking with the clutch depressed (if the sound does not change, then the clutch is not disconnecting the engine and gearbox). Maybe someone else can tell me something or remove the box and look at the clutch.

By the way, the Kraft clutch lasts a long time and how is the quality? By the way, the Kraft clutch lasts a long time and how is the quality? It's better to engage 4th gear. My clutch disc is AT.

It's been 1.5 years (45 thousand km), I removed the gearbox and the clutch disc is normal.

But clutch wear is 50% dependent on the driver. Acceleration and braking are strong! All this with the clutch pedal depressed.

After half an hour, it was decided to change the clutch) What's the point of driving the car with the gear engaged and the clutch depressed? So you can drive in neutral. The task was, as far as I understand, to tear off the driving clutch disc from the driven one.

In neutral, the clutch disc has the same speed as the engine's CV. The same thing happens when the speed is on and the clutch is released.

During normal operation of the gearbox and clutch, synchronizers contribute to the inclusion of speeds.

The box “crunches” when switching

Crunching is the characteristic extraneous sound that occurs when changing gears. Reasons for this phenomenon:

malfunctions of the clutch and its release drive, due to which, when the pedal is depressed, the driven disk remains in engagement with the flywheel (in such cases it is often said that the clutch “drives”). Sounds when changing gears are often accompanied by a tight movement of the rocker, so to change gears you need to apply quite a lot of force;
insufficient amount of oil in the gearbox;
incorrect adjustment of the clutch release cable drive;
wear of synchronizers in the gearbox.

Why is it difficult to engage manual transmission gears?

Problems with manual gear shifting most often occur for the following reasons:

The most common problem is clutch failure. In such a situation, reverse gear turns on with a bang. This happens because the gear overlaps the tooth. Reverse speed is the only gear in the box that does not have synchronizers. For this reason, clutch failure is so obvious on it.
The second reason is a defect in the mechanism responsible for selecting the gear. This breakdown occurs when the car is stationary and you try to shift into gear.
The third is severe wear of the gearbox synchronizers. Mostly, breakdowns occur with those that are most often used. These are first, second and third gear. Severe wear of the synchronizers only appears when switching while driving.

To prevent possible gearbox malfunctions, perform regular maintenance, change the oil on time, and in case of minor failures, rush for diagnostics. This will save you time and money in the future.

Watch the video for what not to do with a manual transmission:

What to do if it is difficult to engage reverse gear?

If you have difficulty engaging reverse gear, do one of the following:

When you feel that the gear has not reached the end, release the clutch slightly, and the gear will be inserted all the way.
Fully depress the clutch and only after a few seconds engage reverse gear.
Depress the clutch, set the gear to neutral and release the clutch. After this, press down and engage reverse gear.
Shift into reverse through another gear. For example, first engage 4th and then shift to reverse.

How to properly engage reverse gear on a Hyundai Solaris, watch the video:

It's hard to engage first gear

Many drivers who encounter this situation try to force the gearbox selector to engage 1st speed. But this is fundamentally wrong and should not be done this way.

In this situation, it is necessary to use the regas method. Its essence is as follows:

While driving in second gear, depress the clutch and set it to neutral and then release the clutch.
After this, you need to press the gas pedal, increasing the speed to 2.5 thousand.
The next step is to engage the clutch again by pressing the pedal all the way and turn on the first gear on the gearbox. If you still have difficulties with this, then you need to repeat it, because... You gave too little gas, there were too few revolutions.
If all the steps are performed correctly, the first speed will turn on without any difficulties or sounds.

However, this method should not be used on an ongoing basis when it is difficult to engage 1st gear. This method is temporary in order to at least get to the service station without any problems. In any case, the box will have to be repaired.

What to do when it’s hard to engage 1st gear on a car, watch the video from a driving instructor:

The procedure for replacing synchronizers requires experience, relevant knowledge and special tools, so it is better to contact professionals. Automotive technicians will perform the replacement quickly and efficiently, and will also advise you on further operation and maintenance of the box.

Recommendations for manual transmission operation and maintenance

The durability and quality of the transmission largely depends on how the gearbox and clutch are operated. Extending the service life of the gearbox, and therefore increasing the comfort, controllability and safety of the car, is not difficult; all you need to do is follow a few simple recommendations.

The main thing in operating a manual transmission is smooth gear shifting with the clutch pedal fully depressed. Under no circumstances should gear shifting be allowed with the clutch not fully disengaged, as this leads to accelerated wear of the gears and increases the likelihood of their failure

It is also very important to move in the gear that best matches the current speed, and, if possible, switch to direct (usually fourth) gear - in this case, the torque transmission uses a minimum number of gears and two shafts (bypassing the intermediate one), therefore, wear of parts is reduced checkpoint

When switching to a lower gear, you should reduce the speed of the car, which is also necessary to reduce the load on the parts of the gearbox and the engine itself. Under no circumstances should you engage reverse gear even when the car is moving forward at a low speed - this will certainly lead to damage to the gearbox. And finally, if the first gear does not engage immediately, then you need to first depress the clutch (you can do it twice), and only then engage first gear again. Next, gear shifting must be done smoothly and with a mandatory pause between shifts.

A manual transmission also has operating features that many people are not even aware of. For example, in the winter season, especially at significant subzero temperatures, it is not recommended to park the car with the gear engaged - in this case, there is a high risk of the synchronizer ring freezing, and the next time you start the engine, even after the gear is turned off, the car may start moving. This is also fraught with some malfunctions.

Maintenance is also of great importance for the reliable operation of the gearbox. Firstly, periodically after long and active trips you need to inspect the gearbox for oil leaks. Typically, drips can appear in the area of the filler and drain plugs, along the perimeter of the junction of the box to the engine, between the crankcase and the gearbox cover, and also (in the case of a two-wheel drive vehicle) on the flange of the driveshaft coming out of the box.

Secondly, you should check the oil level and add it if necessary. Typically, the oil level is checked every 10-15 thousand kilometers, and a complete oil change is carried out every 50-75 thousand kilometers. The service interval depends on the age of the car; in most new cars, oil is not topped up at all in the first two to three years (or even the first five years), but then the oil must be checked and topped up at least every 20 thousand kilometers (then yes, at least once a year).

It is very important to use the transmission oil recommended by the gearbox manufacturer, and oils with different characteristics should not be mixed. Otherwise, intensive wear of the box parts and its failure may occur.

With proper operation and proper maintenance, a manual transmission will work for a long time and reliably, without causing problems to the driver.

Basket

If the gears are engaged with the engine running, but no grinding noise is heard. Most likely the problem is in the shopping cart. In this case, the clutch does not engage completely. In this case, many drivers prefer to completely replace the basket, but this is not always necessary. To clarify the reason, in any case, you will have to remove the box.

First you need to check the release bearing. It should move freely along the input shaft. If it is jammed or moves with difficulty in some places, this is the reason. A faulty bearing prevents the clutch from engaging completely. This problem is solved by replacing the problematic part.

Another reason is high disc wear. To determine its condition, it is necessary to disassemble the basket and assess its condition visually. There should be no visible rivets on the friction linings, and there should be no carbon deposits on them. If there is at least one of these signs, then you should install a new disk. Most likely, the problem with shifting gears will be solved.

It is somewhat more difficult to determine if the basket is faulty. Over time, the level of wear on the petals becomes prohibitive. As a result, they become susceptible to high temperatures. Once heated, such a basket cannot completely retract the pressure disk.

In some cases, it is enough to visually look at the basket. The petals will be slightly bent and will show signs of overheating or damage. Another diagnostic method, available in any garage, is to install a known working part on the car. If the car started to work as it should, the reason was in the basket.

Hydraulic booster. In this case, the problem may appear periodically. Most often on the move. This is due to a lack of fluid in the system and/or the presence of air there. This can be determined visually by simply looking into the tank. If a fluid leak is detected, all drive components should be checked. Be sure to inspect the tubes, hoses, and release cylinder. All identified leaks are eliminated. After which you should bleed the system.

What to do if there is no clutch?

If suddenly this problem overtakes the driver right on the road, then there is no need to panic. You can select the desired gear with the engine off, then start the engine and start driving. The remaining gears can be engaged without a clutch - when the revolutions of the crankshaft and input shaft are the same, the gear will engage. But without experience it can be difficult. It will be especially difficult to engage reverse gear, since it does not have synchronizers.

If the clutch is lost, what should I do? It is better and safer to call a tow truck and drive to the repair site. This will be safer for both the driver and the vehicle’s gearbox, the repair of which can be very expensive.

Methodology for driving a vehicle

Even with reverse gear engaged.

Handle forward and backward - directly under the chair; backrest tilt handle - left; • move the lever to the neutral position (it is impossible to check this - immediately after turning the key you can leave, unexpectedly); • you can release the clutch pedal (or you can [but not necessarily] not release it in order to facilitate the operation of the starter); • turn the key 180° clockwise: in this position, current flows to the spark plugs and ignition occurs while the engine is running; • key - to the starter, that is, turn it another 45 ° clockwise (keep pressed for no more than 2 seconds.)

A little about clutch operation

Difficulties with gear shifting due to a faulty clutch are associated with incomplete disengagement of the flywheel and driven disk. In this case, the synchronizers are not able to ensure smooth meshing of the gears, which is why the gears are difficult to engage and a characteristic crunching sound occurs. The cause of the malfunction can be either in the release drive or in the clutch basket itself. Manual transmissions are equipped with two types of clutch release drive:

Mechanical (cable). The clutch pedal is connected by a cable to the clutch release fork. Moving the cable changes the position of the fork, which moves the release bearing towards the damper pressure plates.

Hydraulic drive. The design is based on the incompressibility property of the fluid, and the operating principle itself is similar to the operation of the brake system. By pressing the brake pedal, we move the pusher of the main hydraulic drive to release the clutch. Inside the hydraulic drive there is brake fluid, which, under pressure from the piston, flows through a pipeline to the working cylinder. As it extends, the piston presses on the clutch release fork.