Lada Kalina comfort block repair

03/04/2022 7,750 VAZ Kalina

Author: Ivan Baranov

Auto manufacturers today use many technological solutions to ensure more comfortable driving. One of such devices is CBKE. What is the central unit of body electronics Kalina 2 needed for, what functions does it perform and what malfunctions are typical for it - read in this article.

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Where is the Priora comfort block located?

To gain access to the product, you will need to unscrew the protective plastic walls of the car's center console. They are located on the left side of the front passenger seat and on the right of the gas pedal, on the driver's side. The device itself is located above the control unit. In order to remove the device you will need a 10 mm wrench and a Phillips screwdriver.

Pinout of the Priora comfort block

The main, important elements of the device are:

The so-called control drivers. Each driver is responsible for a set of specific functions.
Transponder receiver.
Relay control.
Transceiver. Communicates with the module installed in the door.
2 connectors. The first is responsible for supplying power, the second for transmitting the necessary technical information.

Click to enlarge
To ensure proper operation of all elements connected to the comfort unit connectors, it is necessary to study the correct pinout (numbered diagram for connecting wires to contacts). The design of the comfort block for the Priora, when studied in detail, is not particularly difficult.

Lada Kalina wagon 2009, engine Gasoline 1.4 liter., 89 hp, Front drive, Manual — electronics

Comments 6

It was similar, on the right side the station lifts did not work (even the buttons in the doors did not respond) if from the driver's door, there was a clicking sound in the block. The floor of the cabin was dismantled, they couldn’t find it, then an electrician connected the nubuck to a diagnostician and showed a short circuit on the right side, some wire under the rear seat was rotten

in coil motors - they should show a short circuit when checking

When I was digging towards the electronics control unit (the windows on the starboard side also moved jerkily and I had to wait until the unit either cooled down or rebooted) I came across records of people whose contacts in the driver's door connector or in the harness near the driver's left foot were green . Everything there was in new condition, and only replacing the comfort unit helped.

Describe what you did to the car before? Have you touched the immobilizer before? What additional electrical components are installed in the car (alarm, auto start, etc.) This is important in order to understand the problem.

On Kalina, the luxury electrical package consists of an immobilizer (the master unit for data exchange via the bus), a control unit in the driver's door and an electrical package control unit under the left rear seat. They communicate via a line bus. There are no relays in the fuse box that control the system. Only fuses. If I'm not mistaken, then there are 2 of them. One is responsible for the entire electrical package, the second for the immobilizer (namely the car starting function). The immobilizer in LC1 also performs the functions of turning on both front and rear foglights, controlling heated mirrors (signal transmission via the line bus) and interior lighting.

There is a problem that in the central left pillar the wires going to the left rear door begin to short out. Then the electrical system literally starts going crazy, rolling down all the windows, setting the alarm against its will, etc. Check this moment.

Overall the system is quite reliable.

The immobilizer was not touched at all. There is an additional alarm with auto start. There were symptoms - the rear window failed, then the driver's window began to move jerkily, a couple of cm at a time. I threw in a used window control unit and the comfort unit died completely. There was a strong burning smell; upon opening, 2 burnt mics were found. Then, by ringing, I discovered that both rear motors were closed. I disconnected the chips from them so as not to burn the new block. And for glass and locks to malfunction, this did not happen.

There is a 99% probability - a short circuit in the central pillar. This is exactly what happened to me.

Replacement instructions

First you need to remove the instrument panel on the center console, then remove the lower part of the dashboard trim under the steering wheel. Now you need to unscrew the fuse box and turn it so that it takes a horizontal position. You need to stick your hand into the freed space until it comes into contact with the shelf on which the TsBKE is installed.

By unscrewing the fixing bolt, you can pull up the control unit and, after disconnecting the two electrical connectors, carefully pull it out. After dismantling the device, it is repaired or replaced with a new one. Installation of the device is carried out strictly in reverse order.

The introduction of modern technologies in the field of control of electronic equipment of a car makes the driver’s work easier, frees him from unnecessary loads and reduces the likelihood of road accidents. Along with the positive aspects of the implementation of CBKE, there are also a number of disadvantages associated with the unreliability of some nodes. Factory engineers are working hard on this problem. According to recent reviews from car enthusiasts, the number of malfunctions of the central unit of body electronics and the frequency of their occurrence are decreasing.

The electrical package control unit (pictured below) Kalina Lux does not work. Or rather, it does not respond to my presses. It is illuminated, when I press the buttons, click, I hear a single short sound in the area of the speedometer/heater (you can hear it in the video below). This thing appeared in the morning, I walked away for an hour, everything worked. By evening everything stopped responding again and it’s been like this for the whole day. Neither the central locking, nor the mirrors, nor the power windows respond to my presses.. What's the matter? I disconnected the terminal for 15 minutes, it didn’t help, the alarm was starline.

Megapolis-Auto provides warranty and post-warranty support for professional anti-theft and security systems and AlarmTrade.

The company was awarded the status of "Industry Leader 2014"

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A modern car is a means of transportation that includes all the functions for a comfortable and safe ride. And the more expensive your car, the more and more various functions it has. And all these functions are controlled by blocks called control units.

There are a lot of control units in a VAZ car, starting from the heater control unit and ending with the control of the window lifters. Control units can be either mechanical, that is, a particular function is controlled by the driver himself, or electronic. Let's look at the VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 heater control unit using an example.

The name of the block speaks for itself; this block controls the temperature inside the car. On the front side of the block, depending on the year of manufacture of the car, there are two or three regulators. Older models have a temperature controller and a motor speed controller. And on newer models, units are installed under the Euro panel; they also have an air flow direction regulator.

But absolutely all blocks have a scale with a choice of temperature, which starts from 16 and ends at 28 degrees; if necessary, you can select the highest or lowest degrees by switching the regulator to a circle with a blue or red designation. It is also possible to select an automatic mode to maintain the set temperature in the cabin. That is, data on the temperature in the cabin will be taken from the temperature sensor, which is located on the ceiling, near the interior lamp. The second regulator is responsible for the speed of the electric motor, the scale starts from 0 and ends with 3 (depending on the model, there are also regulators with 4 positions).

And the third regulator that is installed on new models is the air flow direction position regulator. There are three options for directing the flow: to the windshield, to the central air ducts, and the last one to the feet of the driver and passenger.

It is also possible to install an electronic heater control unit on the car. The electronic control unit does not have round knobs, but instead there is a screen with the necessary parameters configured. It often happens that the heater control unit fails. Therefore, now we will look at its replacement.

Replacing the heater control unit on a VAZ 2110-12:

Remove the (-) from the battery.
Use two screwdrivers to pry the control unit from different sides.
Use your fingers to gently pull the control unit towards you.
Disconnect two plugs from the control unit

Replace in the reverse order.

Replacing the heater control unit on Lada Kalina:

Remove the (-) from the battery.
Remove the 2 plugs on the right and left of the emergency stop button.
Unscrew the 2 bolts.
Remove the 2 round regulators from the air temperature and from the direction of incoming air.
Pull the instrument console trim towards you and set it aside.
Take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the 4 bolts securing the heater control unit.
Remove the control unit.

Replace in the reverse order.

Replacing the heater control unit on a Lada Priora:

Remove the (-) from the battery.
Remove the audio block.
Remove the unit with heated glass and hazard warning button
Unscrew the bolts holding the console.
Remove the plastic plug.
Unscrew the bolts located under the plug, as well as the bolts at the bottom of the lining.
Pull the trim slightly towards you and unplug the plugs going to the heater control unit.
Remove the round regulators from the control unit.
Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the heater control unit.

Replace in the reverse order.

With the heater control units, we think everything is clear; let’s move on to the window regulator control unit. The power window control unit may include either two or four control buttons, depending on the vehicle configuration. The control unit may be located differently in different car models.

For example, on a VAZ 2110 the control unit is located to the right of the driver’s hand near the handbrake, and in the Lada Kalina and Priora the control unit is located to the left of the driver on the driver’s door trim. Also in the housing of the power window control unit there may be a joystick for adjusting the side mirrors.

Now let's move on to replacing the power window control unit on different car models.

Replacing the power window control unit on a VAZ 2110-12:

Remove the (-) from the battery.
Using a screwdriver, pry off the window regulator control unit.
Disconnect the plug from the buttons.

Replace in the reverse order.

Replacing the heater control unit for Lada Kalina and Priora:

Remove the (-) from the battery.
Remove the rubber mat from the pocket.
Unscrew the two bolts holding the plastic pocket.
Disconnect the plug from the buttons.

Replace in the reverse order.

As you can see, replacing the power window control unit is not very difficult. The most important thing is not to forget that any car has the ability to break down. And there is nothing unusual about this.

And by reading our tips, you will always be able to easily repair your car. But if you still have any doubts about the selection of auto parts for your car, then our highly qualified consultants will help you make the right choice!

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Purpose and characteristics of TsBKE

The central unit of body electronics Kalina 2 controls:

alarm system;
windshield wipers;
heated windshield and rear windows;
heated side mirrors;
lighting system;
direction indicators;
central locking;
trunk opening drive;
electric windows;
heated front seats;
electric side mirrors.

When the alarm is turned on, an automatic check occurs, accompanied by a short flashing of the direction indicators. In security mode, the immobilizer light on the instrument cluster blinks. The security mode is disarmed by pressing the remote control button.

The central electronic unit automatically turns on the windshield wipers if:

a signal was received from the rain sensor;
sensitivity regulator in position from 1 to 4;
The wiper switch is in the intermittent position.

When the voltage drops to 9.6 V, the central unit limits the operation of the rear window and side mirror heaters. This prevents the engine from going into emergency mode. When the voltage is restored to a level of 10.8 Volts, the heaters turn on automatically.

The driver is also assisted by body electronics when working with the lighting system. When the engine starts, the daytime running lights turn on, and when the engine stops, they turn off automatically. The low beam headlights and side lights turn on when a signal is received from the light and rain sensor. At the same time, the daytime running lights turn off. If during automatic diagnostics a malfunction is detected, the absence of a signal from the light sensor, then the TsBKE turns on the low beam and dimensions.

Personalize existing features

The manufacturer has provided for the timing of regular technical inspections, which are mandatory. For non-compliance, the company reserves the opportunity to deprive the car owner of the right to free service.

The most vulnerable is the comfort block, which includes many logical circuits. Its purpose boils down to the following functions:

activation of interior lighting;
adjusting the operation of car alarms;
turning on the heated rear window;
automatic mirror adjustment;
control of electric windows;
remote control of locks.

The manufacturer has provided the ability to personalize each element. To do this, the electrical package control unit must be recoded at an authorized automotive center. Using official software, the wizard will add or remove certain features. If everything is done correctly, 20 minutes after requesting the appropriate service, you can safely use the “iron horse”.

Basket

Double-glazed window control unit “Norma” 1118 – 6512010 for VAZ 11183 “Kalina”

Aktuator On cars of the Kalina family, 2 types of non-interchangeable (by wiring) glass unit control controller 1118 - 6512010 and 11180 - 3763040 can be installed. 1118 – 6512010 has one 25-pin connection connector, 1118 – 3763040 (1118 – 3763040 – 10) – two connectors.

Remote control system for double-glazed windows “norm” on a VAZ 11183, Kalina. Controls power windows and central door locking. When the connector is removed, the engine does not start; the device performs some of the anti-theft functions.

Connection

№	Wire color	Purpose, addressing
1

External Shock or Volume Sensor Input (Not Used)* 2 Pink/Black To Door Lock Switch in Switch Box

3 Brown/Green K‑Line. To Kl. 71 ECM, Cl. 18 APS‑6

4 Brown Connects to ground when the driver's door is closed

5 Gray To heated rear window element

6 Black Mass

7 Pink/White To door lock switch in switch block

8 Yellow/Blue To the instrument cluster, to the APS‑6 indicator

9 Black/White Connects to ground when the hood is opened. C VK engine compartment lamp

10 Two White/Red Connects to ground when opening the rear doors

11 Brown/Red Connects to ground when opening the right front door

12 Output 12 V power supply for external sensor (Not used)*

Not used

14 Yellow Pulse + 12 V, closing all doors and trunk

15 Red/Blue K class. 14 APS‑6

16 Blue with Black To left direction indicator

17 Red/Blue Pulse + 12 V, opening passenger doors

18 Red/Black Pulse + 12 V, driver door open

19 Pink/Red Impulse + 12 V, opening the trunk lock

20 Yellow/Blue To terminal “15”, via fuse F 9, in the mounting block

21 Grey/Black “-” Horn relay

22 White/Blue Connects to ground when the driver's door is opened

23 Red To permanent plus through fuse F 5, in the mounting block

24 Blue To right turn signal

25 White/Black Connected to ground when opening the trunk

* A regular shock sensor from any alarm system (Alligator, Saturn, Clifford, APS) is suitable.

+ 12 V connect to pin 12; body – on the 6th; We connect the signal wire (a ground appears on it at the moment of activity) to the 1st contact.

During normal arming, Kalina now reacts to an impact on the body (it sounds a horn and blinks turn signals). Similarly, instead of a shock sensor, you can connect a volume sensor (for example, single-level MMS‑1).

You can also connect a pager: + 12 V of the pager transmitter on pin 12, minus on pin 21.

Double-glazed window control unit 1118 – 3763040 (- 10 ) for VAZ 11183 “Kalina”


Controller board
Controller board

The key code is not readable

1 . 1 Malfunction in the VZ communication coil circuit

1 . 2 Malfunction in the circuit from the block to the communication coil to the APS ECU

1 . 3 Transponder missing in OK

1 . 4 The transponder in OK is faulty (detected during pre-production preparation)

1 . 5 The transponder in the Republic of Kazakhstan is faulty (detected during pre-production preparation)

1 . 6 Malfunction of the input transponder circuit in the APS ECU

1 . 8 The communication coil came off from the VZ pad on the inside

1 . 1 - replacement 1118 – 6105006 (set) - rearrange the transponder - rearrange the remote control 1. 2 - replacing the instrument panel harness 1. 3 -replacement of KSUD -replacement of 1118 – 6105006 (set) -replacement of remote control -train the system 1. 4 - rearrange the transponder (if there is a clean one) otherwise: - replace 1118 – 6105006 (set) - retrain the system 1. 5 - replace the remote control - train the system 1. 6 - replace the faulty unit - train the system 1. 7 - replace the remote control with a “clean” one - train the system 1. 8 - replace 1118 – 6105006 (set) - rearrange the transponder - rearrange the remote control 2. 1 W‑Line communication line break

2. 2 Malfunction of W‑Line circuits in the APS or ICS units

2. 3 Lack of supply voltage on the APS or KSUD unit

2. 4 The “Normal” electrical package is faulty (the control driver has burned out)

2. 5 KSUD does not contact

2. 1 - restore the circuit between unit No. 18 of the APS ECU and unit No. 71 of the KSUD 2. 2 - replace the faulty unit - train the system 2. 3 - eliminate the cause 2. 4 - replace the electrical package - retrain the system 2. 5 - eliminate the leak - replace the control valve - retrain the system

The read key code is not in the APS 3 memory. 1 - retrain the system 3. 2 - replace the KSUD - replace 1118 – 6105006 (set) - replace the remote control - train the system

The code of the read key is not in memory Revealed during pre-production preparation 4 beeps IC flashes The ECCS was previously trained with another system - train the system

CBKE schemes

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Electrical connection diagram for TsBKE on LADA VESTA: 2 – rechargeable battery; 3 – starter; 4 – rear left outer lamp; 5 – left headlight; 7 – rear window heating relay (K3); 8 – right headlight; 10 – rear outer right lamp; 13 – trunk light; 15 – fuse 60 A (F70); 16 – additional relay (K8); 17 – ignition switch; 26 – alarm switch; 30 – fuse 5 A (F20); 32 – left steering column switch (light alarm switch); 34 – fuse 60 A (F75); 35 – rear window heater; 44 – windshield heating relay 1 (K21); 46 – windshield heater; 47 – lampshade lighting of the glove box; 48 – switch for the glove compartment lamp; 51 – TsBKE (VSM controller); 58 – fuse 30 A (F61); 59 – left threshold lamp (installed on luxury equipment); 60 – right threshold lighting lamp (installed on the “luxury” configuration); 61 – relay of additional consumers (K2); 63 – fuse 10 A (F32); 84 – fuse 3 A (F43); 87 – left outside mirror; 88 – right outside mirror; 120 – additional starter relay (K23); 134 – brake signal switch; 138 – fuse 5 A (F15); 164 – air conditioner control panel (connection diagram for the “comfort” package); 185 – interior lighting unit with ERA-GLONASS interface module; 196 – fuse 5 A (F24); 200 – fuse 15 A (F11); 201 – fuse 15 A (F12); 202 – fuse 10 A (F13); 203 – fuse 10 A (F14); 204 – fuse 5 A (F17); 205 – fuse 5 A (F16); 229 – fuse 3 A (F49); 230 – clutch pedal position signal switch; 231 – windshield heating relay 2 (K22); 233 – fuse 5 A (F80)

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location of fuses F1-F59 and relays K1-K20 in the interior mounting block;

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location of fuses F60-F80 and relays K21-K28 in the motor mounting block

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Electrical connection diagram of the TsBKE on LADA VESTA (Comfort package): 2 – rechargeable battery; 3 – starter; 9 – rear inner left lamp; 15 – fuse 60 A (F70); 16 – additional relay (K8); 17 – ignition switch; 20 – fuse 15 A (F1); 23 – rear inner right lamp; 28 – fuse 5 A (F74); 31 – reverse light switch; 33 – right steering column switch (windshield wiper switch); 51 – TsBKE (VSM controller); 63 – fuse 10 A (F32); 79 – electric motor for windshield wiper; 80 – washer motor; 120 – additional starter relay (K23); 198 – fuse 25 A (F40);

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location of fuses F1-F59 and relays K1-K20 in the interior mounting block;

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location of fuses F60-F80 and relays K21-K28 in the motor mounting block

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After replacing the TsBKE, it is necessary to perform the training procedure (entering parameters) and automatic configuration of the TsBKE using the Grade-X diagnostic device. You can also view error (fault) codes using this device. You can get acquainted with the functionality of the CBKE in more detail, as well as its diagnostics, using the TI (device, fault diagnosis of the CBKE).

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On the one hand, this functional device allows you to more finely tune the operation of the electronics. On the other hand, the unit has a complex structure, which makes independent repairs more problematic. If the TsBKE fails, you will have to contact the dealer, because It is unlikely that the necessary equipment for programming or diagnostics will be at hand.

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Attention! It is impossible to retrain a CBKE taken from another vehicle. _x000D_

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Which implementation do you like best? The presence of a simple circuit, where there are turn relays, ESP, etc., or the presence of a central electronics control unit? Find other materials on repair, maintenance, modifications and tuning of these cars in the contents (XRAY crossover, Lada Vesta sedan).

Categories of products that may be of interest to you based on the article “Central unit of body electronics Lada Vesta and XRAY (description, reviews)”:

Granta and Starline - all options

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From the very beginning of sales of the new Lada Granta family, owners began to experience inconvenience when using the central locking (CL). The fact is that in some car versions, when the engine is running, the central lock only closes the driver's door. Closing all doors is only possible when the ignition is turned off. This algorithm for the operation of the central lock complicates life for owners when installing an additional car alarm with auto start.

Here's what Lada Granta FL owners write in one of the VK groups:

The new FL grant has a strange locking mechanism. 1. if you lower the driver's flag when the car is turned off, then all the others will lower and close, everything is fine. 2. If the engine is running, then when the driver's flag is lowered, the rest remain open. Well, God bless him, maybe the thieves won’t get caught in the traffic jam. BUT! When you arm the car with a manual transmission and get out of the car, the engine naturally runs before arming...you arm it and...since the engine is running, one driver's flag goes down. Three passenger doors remain open. Pressing the close button again does nothing. You have to disarm and re-arm, and this already resets the autorun. Indeed, such an algorithm for the operation of the central locking is indicated in the car’s operating manual:

Central locking and unlocking of side doors from the passenger compartment (in a variant). To lock the side door locks from inside the vehicle, press the lock button into the driver's door or (in the optional version) press the lock button in the driver's door module. In versions with a driver's door module, locking the side doors using the button in the driver's door is only possible when the ignition is turned off. At the moment, this information has already been conveyed to AvtoVAZ. It remains to be hoped that this feature of the central locking system will be corrected in the near future.

Finally got around to installing a new power window switch assembly. I started by inserting a new block from Kalina 2 in place of the original one. Using plastic spatulas to remove the trim, I removed the Granta power window switch block.

On the website where I ordered the block (see part 1), there is a template for marking.

I removed the original block and marked the casing for the new one.

I cut out the seat with a utility knife.

Installed a new block.

The next step was to remove the casing and conduct +12V, which I took from the fuse of the factory central locking unit (it seemed logical to me

The entire electrical package of the Kalina-Lux was covered. Let's share our experience.

I’ll briefly describe the essence - we have a failure of all ESP, heating and drive mirrors, and central locking. The car thinks it is open, so there is no auto start. Comfort block was to blame

-it burned out (we’ll omit the reasons for now). In general, I bought a new block (-5K), put it in place of the old one, but nothing happened. Next, the fault was with the ESP control unit (in the driver's door), because I climbed there, picked around, and most likely, with a 100% probability, I broke everything there,).

I bought a new one (-2K), installed it instead of the old one - again no result. When you press the buttons, you hear clicks somewhere inside the dashboard (in the area of the front air ducts). I went to a garage electrician, but they didn’t help.

I ask for advice, before I go to the officials, maybe someone has had the same situation, maybe they somehow solved it?! PS 1. I checked the fuses - all are working, 2. The wiring in the driver’s feet often rots (

Gearbox lever rattling

For LADA Kalina, a typical malfunction is rattling in the area of the gearshift lever, which mainly becomes noticeable when the engine is running at speeds of about 3000. The source of the side sound is the bushing, which is made a little thicker than necessary, and because of this, a gap appears in the mount. To resolve this problem you need to do the following:

remove the handle cover, which is attached with latches;
using two 13mm wrenches, unscrew the nut and bolt;
remove washers and bushings;
to eliminate rattling, the bushing in the middle needs to be slightly sharpened in width or the mount should be lubricated with sealant;
Having done this, mount everything back. The sealant does not help out every time, but if you sharpen the bushing by 0.3 mm, the result is guaranteed.

It’s safe to say that repairing a Lada Kalina car yourself is not so scary. Every car enthusiast has the opportunity to eliminate minor malfunctions of this car. You just need to believe in yourself, follow our advice and everything will work out!

Non-specific types of services

Even if the rules for safe operation of the vehicle are observed, the heater control unit may require servicing or replacement. This happens as a result of sudden switching of the heating knob of the Lada Kalina car. The operating instructions indicate that you must wait until the system warms up to a minimum, otherwise expensive repairs will be required.

From a financial point of view, the stove control unit will not be cheap, so its careful operation will save the family budget.

The heater control unit cannot be replaced independently due to the need to use special equipment. Much less often problems arise at the level of the engine control system.

The need to visit a service station will be caused by driving on a gravel road, an accident, or the result of unprofessional maintenance. The engine management system is responsible for fuel injection, so any deviations in its operation immediately put the car on hold. How long it will take to replace the engine control unit will be decided by the technician after an inspection.

It is cheaper, but repairs take much longer when the body electronics unit comes under attack. The problem can only be diagnosed in a service center. The duration is due to the fact that if the engine control unit can be replaced as a single whole, then part of the wiring must be changed along with the electronics.

Voltage surges or a simple short circuit can damage a certain sector. The light control unit will be the first to tell you about this.

Incorrectly working turn signals or emergency lights are the first sign indicating a failure in the electronic component of the car. There is no point in delaying a visit to the service center. Otherwise, the ESP unit responsible for dynamic stabilization will come under attack. Even with minor problems, the driver will notice a decrease in the lateral dynamics of the vehicle.

Seats: too dirty upholstery and everything that follows from this

In the configurations of Luxury cars, starting from the 1st generation of cars, fabric was used for seat upholstery, which was too classy. VAZ was supposed to solve this problem in the spring of 2014. The new fabric, oddly enough, ended up not being much better than the old one. Advice from experienced people: you need to put covers on the seats.

Structure of the new upholstery fabric designed for luxury trim levels

By the way, leather cases conduct heat very poorly. In trim levels where heated seats are provided, there is no point in using such a solution - heating will proceed very slowly. The owner should be aware of this so as not to waste a significant amount on an expensive and useless addition.

Let's ask ourselves how much of a brand the fabric of the standard upholstery actually is. If we talk about difficult operating conditions, then, according to reviews, you have to clean the seats once every six months. Make a choice.

Replacement features

Briefly about the procedure for replacing the control module on Kalina 2:

First, the instruments are dismantled from the center console; there is nothing difficult about it. Then the lower part of the center console trim is unscrewed, the trim is removed, and you gain access to the fuse and relay box. The mounting block with safety devices can be unscrewed, but it cannot be removed because it is connected by wires. You can rotate it a little so that it takes a horizontal position. You can stick your hand into the gap formed as a result of turning. Having done this, you will be able to feel the shelf on which the TsBKE is installed. A little to the left there is a bolt with which this module is fixed - you need to unscrew it. After this, through the top, through the instrument panel, you will need to disconnect the two connected connectors

After completing these steps, you can carefully dismantle the CBKE and remove it by slightly moving the fuse box. Please note that you should not pull the device too hard, since on the other side there are two more connectors that will need to be disconnected

When the wires are disconnected, the CBKE can be completely dismantled and repaired or replaced.

What to do if the ECU does not work?

When a source of coolant leakage appears in the designated radiator, it gradually flows onto the electronic module housing. This eventually leads to a short inside the unit and it fails. The intensity of the leak affects the duration of operation of the electronic device until a breakdown occurs.

The owner of the Lada Kalina begins to see an activated indicator, indicating an error in the engine. This can happen for several weeks and at one point the car will stop because the brain has stopped functioning. If the leak intensity is high, then smoke may emanate from under the panel in such an emergency situation. Here, the owner will be required to respond quickly, regardless of the scale of the leak that caused the device to break down.

When it turns out that the brain is filled with liquid, it will need to be examined immediately. The unit is located in the lower compartment of the center console. If the owner is unable to immediately detect the device, we provide a hint in which we localize the search zone: between the interior heating radiator and the floor of the Lada Kalina.

The fastest way to get to the “damaged” module is from the passenger seat. Here we remove the plastic plug on the side surface of the console. It is secured with one screw. After unscrewing, we move this trim to the side (along the direction of the car). Next, we proceed to the direct dismantling of the ECU itself.

The order of manipulations here is as follows.

Remove the terminals from the battery.
We unscrew a couple of screws, one of which is located on the motor side.
Carefully pull the module towards the passenger side.
For convenience, remove the carpet from the interior for a short time.
Remove the supply cable harness. Here we use a gentle pulling action, where we grasp the connector latches.

Replacement features

Briefly about the procedure for replacing the control module on Kalina 2:

When the wires are disconnected, the CBKE can be completely dismantled and repaired or replaced.

Video “Independent repair of the control module”

How to properly dismantle the CBKE and how to subsequently repair it - detailed instructions describing all the nuances are presented in the video below (author - MultiAlexander9).

After restyling, instead of fuses and numerous relays, the Lada Kalina is equipped with a central body electronics control unit (CBEC). The device is available in “Lux” and “Norma” trim levels.