Engine protection for VAZ 2114 - which one to choose, how to install

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As you understand, crankcase protection on the VAZ 2114 is necessary in order not to damage or deform the crankcase itself. What is this crankcase? Essentially, this is a container or pan where the engine oil is located. Now it becomes clear why the condition of the crankcase needs to be monitored with special care. Otherwise, an oil leak will occur, the engine will require crankcase replacement at best, and a major overhaul or complete replacement of the power unit at worst.

With insulation

What is protection

Structurally, engine protection 2114 is a metal casing that protects the engine crankcase (essentially a container with oil) from damage when hitting protruding solid objects (for example, large stones).

The absence of this protection, as well as its being in an unsatisfactory condition, can lead not only to oil leakage (which is the most favorable option), but also to complete destruction of the engine due to its sudden wear.

For this reason, you should always check the condition of the engine protection after hitting obstacles when you return home, and if oil leaks appear on the ground after the collision, then immediately after the accident. If it turns out that the protection is severely deformed, you should stop driving and call a tow truck.

The protective casing is located at the lowest point of the engine compartment (which is why all manipulations with it should be done from the pit for greater convenience), directly under the engine. Externally, as mentioned, it is a steel casing that covers the bottom of the crankcase, and therefore it will not be difficult to find it.

Additional protection

Many motorists believe that conventional protection for the VAZ 2114 engine is not enough. Therefore, they decide to install an additional one. Such solutions allow you to more reliably protect your engine from collisions with stones, for example, or other obstacles on the road.

But there are several important recommendations in this regard.

Do not use low protection, after installation of which the distance from the element to the power unit is less than 3 centimeters. This is due to the fact that the element can sag. Consequently, when hitting a hard object, it will bend and damage the crankcase.
Additional protection effectively copes with impacts under the floor, but poses a potential danger in frontal collisions. If during such an impact the usual protection falls from its mounts and the engine also ends up on the ground, then the additional one helps ensure that the engine remains on it and is directed into the cabin. This could result in serious injury to all people sitting in front.
If there are good roads in your city and if you live there regularly, there is no point in additional protection. It is designed for difficult road conditions.
Additional protection for the engine crankcase is relevant for a city with more or less good roads if you lower the car. Being close to the ground, a simple collision with a stone can lead first to damage to the sump, and then to breakdown of the engine itself.

Crankcase protection is an important component for the VAZ 2114 and any other car that plays a serious role in the functioning and operation of the car. Therefore, it should be given increased attention, monitor its condition and take timely measures to replace it.

The procedure for changing such an element is quite simple and does not require professional skills and knowledge. Therefore, you can completely do everything yourself. You only need an inspection hole and a set of keys to dismantle the fasteners.

When to replace and what protection is better to choose

Replacing the engine protection is required if there is a fairly strong collision with an obstacle and it becomes deformed. You should immediately remember that in this case it loses all its protective qualities and, moreover, becomes dangerous for the crankcase itself. So, if angular places concave inwards appear on the protection, then the next time you hit even a small obstacle they can be pressed into the crankcase and seriously damage it.

Thus, a severely deformed crankcase guard is a good reason to replace it. The presence of oil leaks on the ground does not play any role in this case - it is better to be safe once than to replace the car engine later.

Among the protection versions available in car dealerships, two good replacement options should be given preference:

Sheriff is a domestically produced security device manufactured in St. Petersburg. It is made of high-quality steel 2 mm thick and completely copies the original VAZ protection (while surpassing it in strength and service life). As an additional safety element, it has plastic wings that protect the space around the motor from soil and dirt. In addition, an important advantage of the Sheriff protection (both in comparison with the original protection and with protection from other companies) is the presence of two service hatches - for changing the oil and for changing the oil filter, which allows you to perform these operations without dismantling the protection itself.
Titan is another protection produced in Russia. It is made by stamping from solid sheets of hot-rolled steel 2.5 mm thick, which makes it superior in reliability to welded analogues. Its design also copies the “native” protection 2114.

Preparing to replace the engine mount, tips

In order to ideally carry out the procedure for replacing a VAZ engine mount, it will be necessary to have elements such as an overpass or a regular inspection hole. If you do not have access to any of these tools that allow you to carry out repairs at a more comfortable level, replacing the engine mounts can be done without them, but the work will be significantly more difficult.

In order to competently replace VAZ engine mounts, you will need to purchase a support or, as it is also called, a cushion, a set of keys and wrenches, a rust remover, and a ratchet with a board. After all the necessary materials have been collected, you need to drive the car to the top of the pit and carefully insure the vehicle using high-quality stops. This must be done to ensure that the machine does not move during operation.

After this, in order to safely replace the VAZ engine mount, you will need to remove the terminals on the battery. Next, a jack is installed on the engine under the pallet through a wooden stand, and the removal of the elements protecting the engine begins.

In order for the VAZ 2114 engine support to be easily removed from the place allocated by the manufacturer, keep in mind that for the front support it is necessary to handle the internal combustion engine from the pallet using a jack. And in order to replace the rear and side mounts of the VAZ engine, it is necessary to work with the gearbox using a jack. Please note that when replacing the front support, all cushions, in most cases, are cracked and replacement must be carried out.

At least so that in conditions of the quality of city roads, replete with a large number of irregularities, the engine does not have to hit the parts. In this case, it would be better to replace everything. Then you will be confident that all VAZ engine mounts will be in full working order. When doing the work yourself, you must be prepared for the fact that the VAZ engine mount is screwed on too tightly.

Because of this, when unscrewing the bolts, the stud may also unscrew along with them. And if it rests against the starter, it will also need to be removed. When performing this operation, keep in mind that it is secured using three bolts and, before you begin unscrewing, you must remove all unnecessary parts from it.

How to make a replacement

If the engine protection is damaged during a collision with an obstacle, it should be replaced.

It is done in the following order:

Raise the car on a lift or place it on a pit (to provide convenient access to the lower part of the engine compartment).
Unscrew all fasteners of the old protection and remove it.
Clean the area between the guard and the crankcase if there are traces of dirt on it (if necessary, you can also replace the oil filter).
Place the new protection in place and secure it with fasteners.

Thus, the entire process will only take a few minutes.

Speaking about replacing the crankcase protection, one cannot fail to mention such an issue that worries many drivers as installing additional protection. It is designed to provide essential protection against damage when driving over very rough terrain and to ensure that even in very severe collisions with obstacles the crankcase will not be deformed.

At the same time, if you decide to install additional protection, you should definitely remember the following:

if you live in a metropolis or just a city with a very good road surface, rarely travel long distances and never travel out of town on dirt roads, then installing an additional casing does not make any sense - it will simply “hang like a dead weight”, bringing no benefit ;
if the additional protection has a height of less than 3 cm (that is, its bottom is 3 cm or less from the crankcase), then it is better not to purchase it, since in a very strong collision it can bend and damage the crankcase;
if the car is lowered and the roads in the city are not of the best quality, then installing additional protection is highly desirable (perhaps this is the only situation when the presence of another casing under the crankcase is necessary when driving in urban conditions).

At the end of the conversation, it is worth recalling once again that the crankcase protection is not just a metal pan, but an element that protects the engine from failure due to oil leakage. That is why its condition should be checked periodically, and if it is severely damaged, it should be replaced immediately.

Crankcase protection

Over the weekend I hardly left the garage; a lot of work was done. So, I’ll start in order: on Saturday morning I went to the car market and bought various parts for my white car: crankcase protection, interior carpets, rear arch linings for the VAZ 2108-09-099, a tray in the trunk, a mechanical steering wheel lock, an alarm system and also chrome bolts in quantity 12 pieces.

Speaking of these bolts, they are for alloy wheels since there are no bolts for chrome stamps, what does this mean? This means that they have a different cone and a longer thread, so if we tighten them, we will not be able to turn the wheel since the bolts will rest against the calipers and brake cylinders with pads. Even before the purchase, we understood that we would have to tinker, and when we came to the seller of alloy wheels, the dialogue was something like this: (me) - Hello (p) - Good morning (me) - We need chrome bolts, how much do they cost? (n) -What kind of wheels? bolts fifty dollars apiece (I) - Stamps (p) - They won’t fit, the cone is different and the thread is long (I) - I know we will shorten (after these words the seller’s eye almost twitched and he wondered how it was and why he handed me the bolts) . Weakling! I thought, took a handful of bolts and went further along the rows. It all arrived at the garage and work began.

First of all, I glued the STP ceiling in the front part, that is, above the driver’s head, and went over the final layer of splen.

Then I pressed it again in all places so that everything would stick together more tightly, and completely installed the ceiling trim along with all the handles, lamps and clips. The ceiling was assembled and the appearance pleased me.

Then we moved on to the technical aspect, I would say, and the car was unscrewed and the fenders were removed, cleared of factory mastic at the junction with the body and prepared for processing. I’ll tell you why I take off the wings at all, because many may wonder. Let me start with the fact that this will be a low pelvis, and therefore the issue of processing arches and wings must be approached with special trepidation this time.

Two, I know that under the mastic at the junctions of the wings with the body there is completely clean, unprimed metal, as it was on my father’s 15, so I have a 14 here, and it was in these places that the metal was exposed to 8, so gentlemen, do not be lazy and pay attention. The removed wings were processed a thick layer of red lead was literally poured into the fold of the wing so that all the cavities were treated.

Let's move on, many have noticed that on old chisels the corner under the windshield just above the fender gets stuck, the metal first swells with bubbles and then completely falls through to holes - a terrible sight for me. The reason for all this is very simple: this place is a cavity into which condensation falls, but there is nowhere for it to go since there is no drain from this cavity, so water stands there both in winter and in summer, which creates an excellent environment for rust.

This is how this issue was resolved: a limiter was put on a 12 mm drill (a silicone hose or something suitable for the diameter of the drill) so that the drilling depth did not exceed 10 mm. This must be done, otherwise without a stopper you can drill through the hole, then you will cry and clutch your head. After all these tricks we get the following two holes on each side (with a knife I visually point out the drainage holes made)

Now the cavity is breathing; moreover, the mixture under pressure will be blown into it by nozzles. After drilling work, the arches inside were also treated with the first layer.

The bottom also took on the first layer.

There is another intimate place on these machines - the plane under the muffler, since during winter there is a greater amount of condensation due to the heating of the muffler cooling plus exhaust gases. On older cars you can easily see rot under the muffler. Therefore, I took off the ten-thousandth muffler and treated this appendicitis

pay attention to this place in your cars.

I reached into the cellar for potatoes just before leaving and was stopped by the sight of the engine, I thought that if the bolts from the crabs were easily unscrewed, then I would use my last strength to install protection. I took the cylinder cross wrench and surprisingly the bolts went easily, well, back and forth and the protection is in its rightful place.

The calipers are painted.

The door cards have been removed in the cabin and we are preparing for alarm installation and processing.

VAZ 2114 engine protection and installation methods

With insulation

Where is it located?

If you open the hood of your car, you will have a hard time seeing the protection. To do this, direct your gaze to the lowest point of the engine compartment.

Location

In order not to torment yourself and your eyesight, approach the car from the other side, that is, from below. It is under the bottom that you have to work with the crankcase protection.

When replacement is required

If the old device no longer copes with its direct responsibility, that is, it has become deformed and is as close as possible to the pallet itself, immediately begin the replacement procedure.

When the position of the protection approaches the sump, the slightest collision with even a small bump can lead to the fact that the element that initially plays the role of protection itself will cause damage to the engine crankcase.

What to choose?

When choosing new protection, it is important to pay attention to the individual characteristics and features of your particular car.

The design of the selected element directly depends on the type of body, the gearbox used, the engine and other parameters. Therefore, when going to an auto parts store, collect all the necessary information.

Sheriff

Based on the experience of VAZ 2114 owners, devices from two brands are excellent for this model.

Sheriff. Despite the foreign name, it is actually a company from the Russian city of St. Petersburg. To make the protection, the manufacturer uses high-strength steel 2 millimeters thick. The design of the element completely replicates the parameters of the factory device, but has higher reliability and durability. Plus, the Sheriff device is offered with auxiliary wings made of plastic or metal. They allow you to additionally cover the engine space from dirt, dust and other “pests”. Another important advantage of Sheriff devices is two hatches. One is for replacing the filter, and the second is for draining the oil. This will allow you to change the oil or oil filter without removing the protection.
Titanium. Also a Russian manufacturer that uses hot-rolled steel to produce protection for the VAZ 2114. The thickness of the element can be up to 2.5 millimeters. The popularity of the company is largely due to the fact that for production they use hot rather than cold rolled products. This has a positive effect on the performance characteristics of the part, which are superior to analogues made from cold-rolled steel. Titanium uses stamping, that is, the protection structure is monolithic and not welded. Consequently, we get a durable, reliable design.

Replacement

Replacing the engine crankcase protection on a VAZ 2114 is not at all difficult. You don't need to be a professional mechanic to handle this task.

First of all, you need to remove the old device. To do this, place the machine over an inspection hole or lift it with a lift. One way or another, you should end up under the car.
Now examine the structure to see what nuts and bolts hold it in place. All found fasteners are dismantled, after which the protection is easily removed from its place.
If you have the desire and opportunity, do a little “cleaning” of the space. Removing the crankcase protection allows you to get to some components - the same oil filter. It is quite possible that the time has come to replace it or change the oil in the crankcase. This is a good time to perform such procedures.
Now take the new piece you purchased and secure it in place with the new fasteners. If the old bolts and nuts are in good condition, clean them and use them for the new element.

DIY installation

At the second stage, when the engine crankcase protection and brackets are made, installation can begin, tightening no more than two bolts. Now you should check the product for excess metal and the presence of gaps in places where they should not be. At the same time, do not forget about the coincidence of the remaining mounting holes.

Depending on the dimensions, the hatch is cut out with a grinder or a crown. If it is left open, dirt will enter the engine compartment. To get rid of this problem, from the top of the sheet, around the perimeter of the hatch, you should drill 4 holes and weld nuts to them, which will be used to tighten the bolts securing the hatch. At the last stage, the protection should be primed and painted. When it dries, the work can be considered completed.