A car is a whole complex of complex systems, components and mechanisms. An integral part of any vehicle is the braking system. On VAZ cars of the “tenth” family, disc and drum mechanisms are installed on the front and rear axles, respectively. The pads are compressed by a hydraulic drive.
Over time, these elements wear out and require replacement. In today's article we will find out how to replace the rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110. See photos and instructions below.
Main features
There are several symptoms by which you can determine the wear of these elements:
- Increased brake pedal travel. It becomes softer and only grips at the end. This reduces the braking efficiency of the vehicle. This significantly affects traffic safety. Similar symptoms can occur with brake fluid leaks. But if its level is in order, and there are no drips on the tubes and connections, then the rear brake pads on the VAZ-2110 need to be replaced.
- Increased travel of the parking brake lever. If the pedal can be soft even if the front pads are worn out, then a weak handbrake indicates wear on the rear ones. How to determine whether the lever stroke in a car is normal? To do this, place the car on an inclined surface (at least ten degrees) and tighten the handbrake. If the car rolls down, it means the cable is loose or the rear pads are worn out. You can also count the number of clicks on the lever. In normal condition there should be 3-4. If there are 5 or more of them, then you need to replace the rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110.
- Characteristic creaking noise when braking. Subsequently, it can develop into vibration. In this case, the friction material is completely worn out, and the lining is in contact with the drum mechanism with bare metal. Driving with such a symptom is extremely dangerous. At one point, the pads can simply jam, not to mention the crazy wear caused by metal-to-metal friction.
- Minimum thickness of friction material. Unlike previous cases, this can only be found out by removing the drum cover. Experts note that the thickness of the friction material on the rear drum mechanisms of the “tens” should be at least one and a half millimeters.
Symptoms of the problem
Most car enthusiasts do not know when VAZ 2110 brake pads should be replaced.
In fact, there are several obvious symptoms:
- -firstly, the effectiveness of the braking system has decreased (the braking distance has increased);
- secondly, a strong grinding noise appeared when the brake pedal was pressed;
- thirdly, chips and damage on the disks became visually noticeable;
- fourthly, during braking, unnecessary noise, vibration, and jerking appeared;
- fifthly, the brakes are blocked when the pedal is pressed;
- sixthly, there is a large free movement.
Let's get started
So, how do you replace the rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110 with your own hands? First we need to place the car on a flat and hard surface. The presence of a hole is not necessary.
We remove the car from the handbrake and put it in gear. For greater stability, we install anti-roll bars in front. Then we remove the wheel bolts from the rear and lift the wheel. Next, we take it completely out and start working with the drum. We need to unscrew its guide pins. Please note that they may be difficult to remove. Use liquid key lubricant. As a last resort, unscrew the rear hub nut using a 30mm wrench with a long lever (on a dressed wheel). Next, take out the drum cover and, using long-nose pliers, remove the cotter pin from the left side. Using pliers, disconnect the lower spring that tightens the pads.
How do you then replace the rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110? After that, we move on to the springs located on the sides. They hold the brake pads for greater stability. We also remove them out using pliers. At the next stage, we push the lining from above. To do this you need to make every effort. When the pads are stretched, the plate will fall down. Next, the pads can be safely removed out.
But replacing rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110 does not end there. Below we highlight some points that should be taken into account when installing new pads on a car.
How to remove the pads
In order to remove defective rear pads from a VAZ-2110, you need to prepare the following arsenal of a car mechanic:
- a jack is needed to raise the rear of the car
- key 12, it will become the main tool in our business
- pliers are useful for removing parts
- hammer, yes, you will have to make physical efforts to knock out old parts
- a screwdriver, a good helper in removing old pads
- the block is an excellent stand.
Work begins
- The very first thing you need to do is put the car on a jack.
- Remove the rear wheel and disc. We can see the drum ( 6 ), which is attached to the entire structure with two bolts (cotter pins ( 7 )). These need to be removed. Here you will need a 12mm wrench (you can also use a 12mm wrench , it is just suitable for working with tens pads.
- Remove the brake drum ( 6 ). This is probably the most difficult thing in the process of replacing the rear pads, because over the years of the car’s service the drum “sticks” almost tightly, and in order to remove it without damaging it, you will have to work hard. A hammer will help here by tapping the drum, but before doing this, it is important to place a previously prepared block to prevent deformation of the drum, otherwise it won’t take long and break into pieces, which we, of course, don’t need.
- Carefully and slowly remove the spring securing the rear pads of the car. The spring is removed using pliers or a simple screwdriver( 9).
- Now you should disconnect the spring ( 8 ) fixing the block on the shield ( 1 ).
- Loosen the upper spring ( 3 ), which secures the unit. In order to weaken the spring, you need to turn the block a little to the side, about 50-60 degrees .
- To remove the unit, carefully remove the part from the support and brake cylinder ( 2 )). To do this, you need to grab the block ( 4 ), which is not connected to the handbrake (a sorcerer in common parlance). We pull the part as if we are trying to move the pads apart from each other. You will have to loosen the part several times until it is disconnected and pulled out.
- In order to remove the second block, we disconnect the handbrake rod (sorcerer) from the cable. Now the block is easy to pull out
The process of removing the units is completed, now you can begin replacing the old pads with new ones.
We recommend: Replacing the thermostat on the Lada Priora (16 valves)
Installation
Now we take a set of new friction linings out of the box and put them in place. We will need to install the cotter pin and drive arm pin support washer. The upper ends of the pads must fit exactly into the grooves of the piston. The slightest distortions are excluded. To bring the pads together, you need to move the piston to the center of the cylinder. To do this, you can use a mount. To finally bring the pads to the drum, press the brake pedal two or three times. Further assembly is carried out in reverse order. If the pads are difficult to get in, your handbrake cable may be too tight. It needs to be loosened and then adjusted. How to do it? We will talk about this below.
Replacement
In principle, assembly occurs in the reverse order, although there are some peculiarities:
- To achieve normal brake fluid pressure, in the future, it is necessary to drive the piston of the brake cylinder inside;
- Connect the handbrake rod and the block, be sure to insert the cotter pin;
- Connect the guide spring to the brake pad;
- Connect the cable to the handbrake rod;
- Connect the upper spring to the installed new block;
- You need to rest the second shoe on the heel of the brake cylinder and pull its lower edge. The spring is tensioned, the bar can be inserted;
- All that remains is to insert the second block and place it in the slot of the bar;
- Using pliers, engage the spring with the second block;
- After making sure that the cable does not get affected by the movement of the parts that make up the brake mechanism, it is necessary to install the brake drum in place;
- All that remains is to tighten the guide bolts, then install the wheel.
We do the same with the other wheel.
note
When replacing rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110, other difficulties may arise (for example, dirty cylinders in the drum). Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other mineral solvents to clean them. Use only specialized products that are sold in spray form. The product is called “Brake Cleaner”. Judging by the reviews, products from TRW have proven themselves well.
Also note that the pads are replaced in pairs on both wheels. This way you will eliminate problems with the effectiveness of the handbrake and the operation of the system as a whole. In total, you will need 4 pads to replace (two on each side). Their cost for the “ten” is small - about 500-700 rubles per set. As for manufacturers, many motorists recommend installing pads from NIPPON (Japan).
When to change the rear brake pads on a VAZ-2110
According to technical regulations, replacement of the rear pads should be carried out when the thickness of the friction linings approaches the critical level of 1.5–2 mm.
It is impossible to measure the thickness of the linings without disassembling the brake mechanism, but in this case the handbrake will help. If, when tightening the handbrake, the equalizer nut rests against the end of the rod, but the wheels are still far from being completely locked, and the wheels are not blocked when the handbrake is fully tightened, most likely the pads have worn out to the limit.
Knocks and squeaks
In addition, knocking in the rear brake mechanisms, squeaking when braking, contact with brake fluid or oil on the lining, chips and cracks on the surface, as well as jamming of one of the wheels due to a torn lining will force us to replace the pads.
Tuning and repair of VAZ 2110
The pads should be replaced with a remaining friction lining thickness of 1.5 millimeters. How often to change them depending on the mileage is very difficult to say, since it depends on your driving style. The instructions, of course, say that replacement needs to be done every 10 thousand km, but... The rear pads wear out more slowly than the front ones. And there are cases that they begin to require replacement only after 60 thousand km.
Therefore, if the friction linings have a thickness of more than 1.5 millimeters and are not chipped, damaged, or oily, then do not rush to change them, they can still serve you.
Tool
For work, it is most convenient to use a lift or inspection hole, since some operations must be (or more convenient) performed from under the machine.
For our work we will need the following set of tools:
- plumber's hammer;
- rubber straightening hammer or wooden spacer;
- steel rod with a hook at the end for removing and installing springs;
- mount;
- standard set of tools and penetrating lubricant.
Essential tool for replacing pads.
Work algorithm
If you have all this at hand, including new pads, let's get to work:
- We put the car on a lift or inspection hole and remove the wheel bolts.
- We hang one side on a jack if we are working in a pit.
- We remove the wheel.
Jack up part of the body and remove the wheel.
Using a 12mm wrench, unscrew the two guide pins and remove the drum.
But if it doesn’t give in, we go down under the car and tap the perimeter of the drum with a rubber or wooden hammer. If it doesn’t work, generously apply penetrating lubricant to the place where the drum fits on the hub, wait 5–10 minutes and repeat the procedure. You can take a heavier hammer, but you can’t hit it directly on the drum, it will crack. We hit it through a wooden spacer, turning it evenly.
Remove the expansion bar.
Having disconnected the guide spring from the rear brake pad, we remove the manual brake pad drive lever from the cable end.
We inspect the pads and brake mechanism for damage, leaks, etc.
After dismantling
After dismantling, we thoroughly clean and check the condition of the brake mechanism, boots and working cylinder.
Pay attention to the condition of the brake cylinder and boots.
- We look at the brake fluid level; if the reservoir is full, we take a small amount with a syringe.
- We remove the handbrake drive lever from the old block and install it on the new one.
Preparation for replacing VAZ rear pads:
- Buy new rear pads. Here, as they say, it’s up to your taste and color. There are a lot of manufacturers. I advise you not to go for the cheapest ones, as they have the same quality. But you don’t even need to go for the most expensive ones, unless you take your car into races where braking is of great importance.
- Pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir under the hood.
- Remove the handbrake
- Shift into first gear
- Remove one of the rear wheels
- Repairs will be made with the following tools: a screwdriver, a 12mm wrench, a rubber hammer, two pry bars and pliers.
Choosing the best pads
Despite the fairly long service life and relatively low loads during operation, you should not waste time when choosing rear pads.
After all, brakes are about safety. The market offers about two dozen different pads, differing in price, country of production and brand status. True, the difference in prices is not so great, as can be judged from the list of the most popular kits:
- The most inexpensive pads can be bought for 480–500 rubles a set. They are produced by the domestic company ARTEX . The catalog number of all ten rear pads is 2108–3502090 . The pads are not remarkable for anything except that they are afraid of overheating - they lose about 40% of their friction properties at 150 degrees.
- VAZINTERSERVICE kit , at a price of about 580–600 rubles, showed itself to be worthy. The only negative is their low resource and they also don’t like high temperatures.
Rear brake pads VAZINTERSERVICE.
Rear brake pads FERODO.
Rear brake pads ALLIED NIPPON.
LUCAS brake pads.
Good luck to everyone, stable brakes and sunny roads!
Video which pads are better
Welcome! Brake pads - they are used to stop the car, and they are also the basis of the braking mechanism; absolutely any car is equipped with them, from budget cars to expensive premium foreign cars; in addition, a lot depends on the quality of the pads, for example, how quickly will the car slow down, will it brake with a squeak and will the pads eat up the brake drum or brake disc (It all depends on what mechanism they are installed on; if there are disc brakes, for example, and poor, low-quality pads, then over time they will wear out the brake brake to such an extent disk, that the car will no longer even be able to be driven), so approach the choice of new pads very carefully and before purchasing them, make sure which part is in front of you, the original or the original (They are very easy to distinguish if you know some of the nuances, more about this described “in this article”).
Note! To replace the brake pads with new ones, stock up on the following tools: Pliers and wrenches, in principle, you don’t need anything else besides these tools, but still, just in case, take WD-40, otherwise you never know what happens, suddenly the bolts securing the brake the drum is stuck!
Summary:
Where are the rear brake pads located? They are located under the brake drum and when braking they press against it and thereby the car stops. We won’t show where exactly this drum is located, because it doesn’t make any sense, since everyone knows its location, but we’ll still say a few words and we will give advice, from time to time we recommend looking at the drum itself and, if possible, removing it, because when everything gets stuck, there is a chance that you will not remove it at all, but you need to look at the brake drum for this purpose, with a strong When it wears out, the walls of the drum become very, very thin, and therefore it can begin to crack and eventually break, which will lead to very bad consequences and may even lead to an accident.
When do you need to change rear brake pads? They need to be replaced when the thickness of the linings has become less than 1.5 mm (Each pad has a lining that slows down the car) and when the lining peels off from the metal body of the pad, they also need to be replaced (We’ll immediately explain why we wrote they and not she , when replacing the pads, if you decide to do this replacement, you definitely need to change all four, that is, if you change in the rear, then four pads in the back must be replaced, if in the front, then all four must also be replaced, otherwise the car will not slow down evenly and it will be pulled to the side during emergency braking) and we wanted to give you one more piece of advice: when you remove the drum, check its internal diameter with a ruler or something else (How to check the internal diameter, see the photo below) but only it check in several places at once, and not in just one, because the brake drum, like the pads themselves, does not wear out evenly and by the way, the internal diameter of the drum should not exceed 201.5 mm, and the drum should not have defects, chips or should not be po kotsan.
What are brake pads for?
But before we start replacing them, let's understand what brake pads are and how they work. So, brake pads are the most important part of a vehicle’s braking system, responsible for stopping it in a timely manner. The pads can be installed on front and rear wheels. Their operating principle is quite simple: the driver presses the brake, the force of which is transmitted to the brake pads; at this moment they fit tightly to the drum (or disc, if the pads are front) and do not allow it to spin, as a result of which the wheel stops spinning and the car slows down.