Do-it-yourself replacement of rear beam silent blocks on a VAZ 2109: fault diagnosis, selection of a new element

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Silent blocks produced by AvtoVAZ can safely be called one of the highest quality parts. It is not surprising that other foreign manufacturers also use them for their cars.

Element appearance

The durability of almost any part, including the silent block, directly depends on the driving style of the motorist. The service life of the element is more than 30 thousand kilometers.

Features of elements

The main function of silents is to eliminate vibrations and deformations that occur during vehicle operation.

When choosing new silent blocks for the rear beam of a VAZ 2109, pay attention to the markings. It should be 2109-2914054. For VAZ 2114-15 models, the markings are different, but the elements themselves are very similar.

In principle, it is possible to install a silent block from a dozen on a VAZ 2109, but you will have to work hard with pressing in the rubber bushing due to the difference in size. The reverse procedure is not possible.

Rear beam

Also check out

You can begin installing new front suspension silent blocks. You need to treat the seat with soapy water and press it into the hole with a screwdriver (if you lubricate the hole with undiluted liquid soap, the resistance will also decrease). When everything is ready, you can start replacing the front suspension silent blocks with new ones.

After the silent block enters 50%, remove the tube and press everything to the end. There is no need to rush so that the part is not installed crookedly. You can add soap to make the process easier.

Check the protrusions of the silent block on all sides (should look like in the photo).

Replace the silent block of the "daisy" lever. The old ones need to be cut down with a chisel, and new ones installed in this place. Using a vice, press them into the mounting hole. Finish with a hammer and a pointer.

Reassemble everything in reverse order.
The actions on the other side are similar.
You need to tighten the nuts when the car is already on the ground.

Worth checking out:

Symptoms of a problem

There are several main signs of failure of the rear beam silent blocks, including:

Unstable behavior of the car on the roads;
Tires wear unevenly, which is not difficult to notice from the tread pattern;
When driving on a bad road (that is, 95% of all our roads), unpleasant squeaks and impacts on the car body are observed.

These signs are indirect, since they may be associated with other failures of the vehicle’s chassis. For example, dull knocks are also a sign of a faulty rear pillar. Therefore, in order to make sure that there is a particular problem, you will need to fully diagnose the chassis.

Malfunctions

Often, replacing the rear beam bushings is due to the fact that defects arise in the design of the element. They are like this:

The elasticity of the rubber element deteriorates;
The rubber breaks;
The central bushing is displaced;
Rotations occur in the seat.

If problems are detected with the silent block of the rear beam, you will need to drive the car into the garage in the near future and replace the damaged components. Unlike foreign cars, changing the silent seal on a VAZ 2109 is quite simple and without outside help. Plus it costs almost pennies.

How is the replacement carried out?

Before starting work, place the car over a hole or drive it onto an overpass. Be sure to secure the wheels with chocks. Next, follow the instructions:

Remove the rear wheel. It will be much easier to work without it.
To replace the silent block you will not need to remove the rear beam, so do not rush to dismantle it.
When working on the left side, you will need to remove the linkage associated with the pressure regulator at the rear of the brake system. To do this, you will need to remove the handbrake cable from the mount located on the right side and the rod fixing bracket.
Using a 12mm wrench, unscrew the nut located on the rear beam mount. Here you may need to create additional leverage using a socket wrench that fits over the knob. After you remove this bolt, jack up the side of the car you are working on.
Carefully push the beam down until it comes out of the eyelet. Watch your actions, as you risk breaking the brake hose.
Prepare a wooden block in advance, which at this stage will need to be placed between the body and the eye. In this case, the beam should be below the eye.
Further work can be done with a special tool, but we will tell you how to dismantle the silent block without a puller. Take a metal tube and a hammer and use them to knock out the old bushings.
Clean the seat.
To make crimping easier, lubricate the seats with soapy water or dishwashing liquid. In this case, it is forbidden to lubricate the seats with oil or grease, since these chemical compounds will corrode the rubber part of the part over time.
Using a hammer or special tool, press the silent blocks into place. Reassemble the vehicle.

Choice

Before you start replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam, you need to decide what exactly you will replace the old, worn bushings with.

We figured out the markings and realized that for the VAZ 2109 you need to take only those that are suitable in size and diameter for the rear beam of the nine.

Today, for the VAZ 2109 they offer two types of silents, differing in the material of manufacture.

Silent block type	Peculiarities
Rubber silent block	They are not as durable, but provide greater softness when operating the car's suspension.
Polyurethane silent block	A more rigid modification, in which the increased rigidity is the main disadvantage. At the same time, these products are more resistant to temperature changes, do not deform so quickly, and remain operational longer.

The choice should be made based on the available budget. Rubber elements cost several hundred rubles less. As for manufacturers, we recommend paying attention to the companies SEVI, BelMag, Boge and SS20.

Size difference

Changing the silent blocks of the front suspension of a VAZ 2109

From this article we will learn how to change the silent blocks on a VAZ 2109, or rather the lower arm of the front suspension. It can be immediately noted that replacing silent blocks is not a pleasant task and belongs to the category of increased complexity. But if you get used to it and understand how it’s done, then there shouldn’t be any problems.

REPLACING FRONT BUSHING BLOCKS VAZ 2109 , we will need the following tool:

New silent blocks for VAZ 2109.

Soapy water (detergent or liquid soap).

Gas burner or other fire source.

A piece of pipe of such diameter that the silent block fits freely into it.

Chisel and hammer.

It is best to carry out the work on an inspection pit or a lift.

So, let's go. Replacing silent blocks on a VAZ 2109 begins, like any other work, with disassembly and dismantling.

Unscrew the lower arm. To do this, unscrew using a socket with an extension: the extension nut, the nut attaching to the body, as well as the stabilizer link and two ball joint bolts. It will take a lot of effort to remove stuck and rusted nuts; if that doesn’t work, use WD-400 or heat the connection. If the extension nut does not unscrew even after all the methods suggested above, unscrew the crab, then clamp it in a vice and try again.

Next, clamp the removed lever in a vice and, using a lamp or torch, try to burn the old silent block out of the seat. If this method does not suit you, then you will have to press out the silent block using a special puller or the same vice, but using fire it is easier and faster to do this.

After the silent block has burned out a little, remove it with a screwdriver or chisel; it should come out easily.

Now you have a place ready for installing a new silent block, which must be thoroughly blown and cleaned of dirt, dust and rust before installation.

When everything is ready, you can begin replacing the front suspension silent blocks with new ones. To do this, you will need soapy water, thoroughly treat the seat with a soapy solution, then install a new silent block as shown in the photo and lightly, using a screwdriver, begin to press it into the hole. You can also apply undiluted liquid soap directly into the hole, then the resistance will be much less. It may not work out the first time, but don’t rush to despair, look at what is “not letting in” and where, tuck it in using a spatula, add soap and get to work again.

When the silent block goes in halfway, remove the pipe and press everything to the end. Be careful, do not rush, so as not to “bite” the rubber silent block, or install it awry. Don't forget about soap, add more of it.

When you have pushed it to the limit, check whether the silent block protrudes equally on each side. Your result should look something like what is shown in the picture.

Now it's time to replace the silent block of the "daisy" lever. Everything is much simpler here, cut off the old ones using a chisel, and then install the new ones in place. Using the same vice, press them into the mounting hole. Finish with milk and setting.

When the lever is ready, you can begin assembly.

On the other hand, everything is done in the same way.

Do the final tightening of the nuts when the car is “on the ground”

FakeHeader

Comments 44

on the right side, how did you replace it? did you unscrew the brake pipes?

Does anyone know if Kalinas have 2110 silent blocks?

The tenth silent blocks fit into the eighth beams, I confirm (you only need to use a puller). In order for the silent block to go deeper, you need to slightly deepen it with a puller, then release the puller and see how it stands up. Instead of a puller, it is convenient to use a glass from the front wheel bearing puller and a suitable screw with a diameter of up to 12 mm. There is no need to use a large washer for the screw - on the contrary, it is convenient to press when the inner sleeve goes deeper than the outer surface of the silent block. Moreover, beams are often weakened and there is no point in installing an eighth silent block. ——————– There will be no way to eat rubber on the rear because of these silent blocks. People usually don’t feel any loss of controllability due to wear of these silent blocks. The main sign of broken silent blocks is a hard knock in the rear suspension on bumps, holes, ruts, waves... when braking. ——————— These silent blocks are checked in the pit by rolling the rear wheel between two wheel chocks. If the silent block is broken, it will knock during such a test. ——————- It is also important to tighten the bolt, after replacing the silent blocks, in the working position of the suspension.

Garage or service station

All car owners can be divided into two categories:

Those who carry out most of the repairs themselves in their garage, and only in emergency cases turn to a car service;
Those who prefer not to touch anything with their own hands, but completely entrust repairs and maintenance to the masters of service stations.

Each of them is right in their own way. Therefore, we have no right to reproach those who do not want to carry out repairs themselves. After all, garage and professional repair of silent blocks, like other components, has its advantages.

STO has the following advantages:

A high-quality, responsible car service provides a guarantee for repairs performed;
In the event of a repeated breakdown covered by the warranty, repairs will be carried out free of charge;
Professionals are professionals; they have extensive experience and knowledge, which allows them to competently perform their work.

But first you need to find such a car service, which, alas, is not an easy matter. Many provide a guarantee, but when you re-apply, they do everything possible to prove that the breakdown does not comply with the terms of the guarantee. A banal trick.

Repairing your garage will provide the following advantages:

Significant financial savings, since you only have to spend money on consumables;
The quality of the work performed by a master is always in doubt if you do not know this person personally. So self-repair may be much better than at a service station;
You purchase the silent block, and the master only installs it. Why pay money for work that you can do yourself?!;
Guarantee that a new one will be installed instead of the old silent block. Questionable service stations can easily install an old, more or less usable silent block instead of the one you gave them. You know what the result is.

The third stage of replacing silent blocks: purchasing and preparing the necessary tools

Let us outline a list of materials and tools that should be prepared in order to positively implement all the advice on how to change the rear silent blocks on a VAZ 21099.

A set of new silent blocks for the VAZ 2109 car (purchased at the discretion of the car owner, his views on the quality and price of the product, delivery availability)
A set of socket heads and wrenches, sometimes you have to select them at the work site, so it’s worth stocking up on them for all unforeseen cases.
Set of spanners. They occur during installation work.
Special kit for removing rear silent blocks (industrial standard recommended). On the market, the seller can call it: “Ball joint and joint remover.” It costs on average 500-1200 rubles. But you can use the old-fashioned method - a hammer and chisel.
Wire brush. It will be needed during the period of cleaning parts, seats from dirt, rust and other foreign deposits that interfere with the operation of the suspension system.
Mount. Necessary for performing power work, mainly for the installation of beams and large segments of the rear of the machine.
Jack (2 pieces).
Wrenches for wheel bolts. They will be needed if you plan to remove the tires in order to provide better access to the repair site. Although it is not necessary to remove the wheels, for repairs it is enough to use jacks to protect the car from rocking.
Sledgehammer, hammer, chisel, if you have to forcefully knock out old parts.
Wooden blocks (2 pcs.) or metal stands for the car. Their task is to fix the car body in the desired position.

Useful tips

The brake hose is located on the beam. If the eye is moved, it can be damaged. Pay attention to this point and be careful when working. Most often, damage occurs from contact with the mount. Always look at what it is leaning on.

In most cases, it will not be possible to simply unscrew the fastening nut. In this case, you need to tap it out. Just don’t hit the nut, hit the screw, the vibration will make it much easier to unscrew it. Using a pipe will also make the task easier. It is put on the knob, this way you can increase the lever and, accordingly, the force transmitted to the nut. As a rule, after such exposure, the most rusted connection gives in.

Conclusion

. The suspension of all cars on domestic roads is subjected to serious tests. Therefore, work such as replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam on a VAZ 2109 is not uncommon. In fact, there is nothing complicated here. The main thing is to do everything in a certain order, and there will be no problems during work.