Fastening the rear beam of a VAZ 2114

It's time to replace the rear beam. I replaced it because it was eating rubber on the inside. When the camber was done, the specialist said that on the left side it was 12 mm, on the right side it was 6.8 mm. He said that it was very crooked.

I thought for a long time about which beam to buy, I took 2170 i.e. Priorovskaya assembled (Silent blocks, handbrake cable, metal hoses). I thought that something would fly off and break when I was filming.

beam 2170

How to shoot in much the same way as on video

When I was filming, there were some swear words that even the neighbors in the garage heard.

Well, how can you install such bolts that you then unscrew the hell out of, and even 6 edges break off. As I write, my nerves take over when I remember. The grinder was covered, I was waiting for a ride, I took a hammer and a chisel and hoped that it would move. So I had to cut off almost all the bolts.

I almost removed the beam, the problem of unscrewing the brake hoses was very hemorrhoidal, they became stuck and rusted. The vodka helped.

The bolts from the rack and the silent blocks are fresh, and there was no difficulty in unscrewing them.

I bought brake fluid, the rear brake cylinders leaked, two pieces at once, two Karl! Also 8 bolts

New. Not a slave cylinder!

I assembled everything much faster and easier. I forgot to change the sorcerer, I don’t want to pump the brakes anymore.

After all these replacements, the problem with the brake pedal beating returned. Again costs in purchasing rear brake drums...

So:

Beam 2170 - 5000 rub.
Rear brake cylinders: 3 pcs - 960 rub.
Brake fluid - 150 rub.
Bolts with hub washer - 180 rub.

How to replace rear silent blocks on a VAZ 2114

Preparatory stage. Initially, the repair site and vehicle are prepared. It is necessary to drive the car onto an overpass or use an inspection hole. It's good to fix it in place and let the car cool down. It is recommended to move away all cables, pipes, and wires passing nearby so as not to damage them during routine repairs of the machine.

It is also important to thoroughly rinse the area where the hinge is located, clean everything from dirt and open access to the fastening system so that nothing interferes and it is possible to replace the rear silent blocks of the VAZ 2114. Fixing stage. The car is installed well, raised on a jack, a place is prepared for repairing the vehicle, wooden blocks are also used to fix some parts of the car

If you are afraid of damaging parts of the brake system and engine, you can dismantle them for a while. Direct replacement of rear silent blocks on a VAZ 2114. Gradually unscrew all the nuts. If necessary, the fasteners that have frozen forever are cut off with a grinder. The metal parts of the hinge are lowered to allow access to the rubber or polyurethane layer. Then, using a chisel and a hammer, the damaged part of the hinge is removed from the niche. A new part is installed in the freed space, which can be clamped in a vice at the time of installation. This is how the replacement of the rear silent blocks of the VAZ 2114 is completed.

It is recommended to carry out a wheel alignment diagnosis at the end of the repair work; this will be more reliable. We observe the behavior of the machine for several days; if the alarming signs disappear, it means that you have discovered the correct location of the problem and fixed it in time. The “stuffing” of a car is complex and consists of small parts, but never discount them. Clearly understand: if it is vital to replace the rear silent blocks on a VAZ 2114, then act, look for opportunities to put the vehicle in order. Transform the powerful “steel horse” into a source of supreme pride! Don't lose sight of a single detail, not a single little thing!

Wheel alignment

Signs of wear on the silent blocks of the rear beam

Operating a car on bad roads leads to the need for suspension repairs. The rear axle of the wheels on the “four” is not endowed with a large number of parts, silent blocks and levers, but it also requires attention over time. Signs of worn bushings on the beam appear as follows:

Reduced “sharpness” of control. Because The main component of the silent is the rubber part; over time it dries out and falls apart. This affects the car's handling;
When the steering wheel is level and when driving on a straight road, the car pulls to the side;
Vibration and the appearance of extraneous metal knocks from the side of the beam;
Problems with wheel alignment and camber;
Rapid wear of rubber on one side.

The simple suspension design of the 2114 allows owners to carry out repair work themselves. Replacing the rear silent blocks of a VAZ 2114 is also carried out at home. Having a minimum set of tools and new parts allows you to carry out the work of replacing silent parts yourself.

Important . If there is one worn silent block in the suspension, two elements should be replaced at once on both sides of the car. It is necessary to remember that all paired suspension parts are changed at the same time.

How to disassemble the rear suspension?

This work is also best done on a viewing hole or overpass. Sequencing:

Remove the trim that is located in the trunk.
Loosen the nuts that hold the posts in place.
After this, you need to loosen the wheel bolts.
Be sure to remove the handbrake cable, drums, tubes and hoses. Otherwise, you will damage them when removing the rear beam.
To remove the struts, you need to install a puller on the spring.
After this, you need to unscrew the lower bolt securing the shock absorber strut to the rear beam.
The top of the stand is secured with one nut.

After removing both struts, you can begin disassembling the rear beam mounting elements. To do this, you need to dismantle the brackets that secure it to the body. There is nothing complicated in the design of the rear suspension. All work on dismantling and replacing worn elements is carried out independently without any problems. Assembly of the unit must be carried out in reverse order. Try to carry out repairs and maintenance of the rear suspension of the VAZ-2114 in a timely manner.

Necessary tools and spare parts

Before starting self-repair, you should prepare a set of tools for the job. The procedure for replacing worn silent blocks of a beam is impossible without the following set of tools:

New silent blocks;
Fastening bolts for new parts (old fasteners often become unusable, since the suspension on the rear axle is rarely repaired);
Jack and bars for fixing the car in a stationary state;
Puller for pressing a new silent block into the seat;
A set of open-end and socket wrenches for unscrewing fastening nuts;
Hammer and lubricant for processing soured fasteners.

Let us immediately note that the presence of pullers and devices for pressing new parts will greatly simplify the work. Soured fastening nuts should be treated several hours before starting work. If you have the specified list of tools, replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of the VAZ 2114 with your own hands becomes easy.

Useful : Replacing rear struts on a VAZ 2114

Rear suspension

Sometimes it is also necessary to replace the silent blocks on the rear suspension of a VAZ 2114 car. They are not as susceptible to wear as in the case of the front control arms, but the fact remains.

The sequence of your work in this situation will be as follows:

If there is no lift, slightly loosen the bolts on the wheels, install a jack, raise the car and completely remove the wheel. It is advisable to place some supports under the beam. Both simple bricks and a second jack will do. It all depends on what you have at your disposal. Now you need to remove the bolts that are attached to the shock absorber and the car body. Proceed carefully to avoid damaging the threads. The bolts are knocked out, the beam moves down or slightly back. This will allow you to get to the desired silent blocks. They are dismantled with a puller. New suspension elements are installed in a similar way to the front control arm silent blocks.

To help them sit in their nests better, use a soapy solution. Reassemble the entire disassembled structure in reverse order. During the disassembly and assembly process, pay attention to the remaining components to which you gain full or partial access. As practice shows, performing certain repairs allows you to study the condition of related components, assemblies and parts of the car, identify emerging problems in a timely manner and eliminate these breakdowns or what may lead to this.

Should you try it if you have no experience at all? Most likely not. But this experience must come from somewhere, right?!

Car rear suspension

It is much simpler than the front one. The suspension is of a dependent type, the left and right sides are connected using a cross beam. It is continuous, made by welding several elements. The front edges of the rear beam are connected to brackets on the side members. To ensure the mobility of the mechanism, hinges with silent blocks are used.

At the rear of the beam there are mounts for the wheel hubs. They are fixed with bolts on the flanges. All brake components are also located here. A double-row bearing is installed inside the hub to facilitate wheel rotation. A shock-absorbing strut and spring are attached to the reverse side of the rear beam. The shock absorber is installed on top in the body cup.

Checking the rear suspension of VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 2113

rear suspension, design and maintenance

Before checking, wash all parts thoroughly. When washing, protect rubber parts from solvents. Suspension arms. Check the condition of the VAZ 2114 suspension arms, connector and suspension beam reinforcements. If cracks or deformations are found in these beam elements, replace the suspension arms assemblies. Welding and straightening work is not permitted, as this may lead to a violation of the wheel alignment angles. Use tool 67.7824.9519 to check whether the suspension arms are deformed. Make sure that the threaded holes in the arm flanges are not damaged and are in good condition. Otherwise, straighten the threads, and if impossible, replace the suspension arms.

Rear suspension device for VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 2113

rear suspension, design and maintenance

Rear suspension parts: 1 – rubber-metal hinge; 2 – suspension arm mounting bracket; 3 – shock absorber casing; 4 – compression stroke buffer; 5 – casing cover; 6 – support washer; 7 – shock absorber cushion; 8 – spacer sleeve; 9 – shock absorber; 10 – insulating gasket; 11 – rear suspension spring; 12 – lever connector; 13 – lever of the rear suspension beam; 14 – shock absorber mounting bracket; 15 – flange; 16 – lever bushing

The rear suspension beam of the Lada Samara 2 consists of two trailing arms 13 and a connector 12, which are welded together through amplifiers.

Suspension of the right rear wheel: 1 – suspension arm; 2 – rubber-metal hinge; 3 – suspension arm mounting bracket; 4 – lever connector; 5 – shock absorber

In the rear part, brackets 14 with eyes are welded to the suspension arms for attaching shock absorbers of VAZ 2113, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, as well as flanges 15, to which the rear wheel axles are bolted together with the wheel brake shields. At the front, the suspension arms have welded bushings 16 into which rubber-metal hinges 1 are pressed. Bolts pass through the hinges connecting the suspension arms to stamped-welded brackets 3, which are attached to the body side members with welded bolts.

Rear suspension beam

GENERAL INFORMATION

Rear suspension elements

1 – support; 2 – rubber spring support; 3 – rear suspension beam; 4 – cylindrical spring; 5 – shock absorber;

6 – rod for compensation of lateral movement of the rear suspension beam; 7 – front mounting bracket for the rear suspension beam.

Removal

EXECUTION ORDER

1. Raise the rear of the car and secure it to supports.

2. Remove the wheel. 3. Place a jack under the rear suspension beam and lift the beam slightly.

4. Remove the bolt from the lower shock absorber mounting.

5. Lower the jack and remove the coil spring.

6. Unscrew the connecting nut and disconnect the rear brake hose from the tube, then release it from the bracket.

Warning To prevent dirt from entering and to prevent brake fluid from escaping, close the brake hose and pipe with suitable plugs.

7. Remove the brake hose clamp.

8. Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the rear suspension beam.

9. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the rear suspension beam.

10. Unscrew four nuts on each side and remove the axles with brake mechanisms from the rear suspension beam.

11. Remove the bolt securing the lateral movement compensation rod of the rear suspension beam to the beam.

12. Unscrew the nuts and remove the bolts securing the front parts of the trailing arms of the rear suspension beam to the brackets. Remove the bolts securing the brackets to the body.

13. Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt securing the lateral movement compensation rod of the rear suspension beam to the bracket.

Unscrew the bolt securing the rear suspension beam lateral movement compensation rod to the beam and remove the rod.

Warning Be careful not to damage the parking brake cable.

15. Remove the rear suspension beam

16. Remove the bolt from the upper shock absorber mounting.

How to disassemble the rear suspension?

This work is also best done on a viewing hole or overpass. Sequencing:

Remove the trim that is located in the trunk.
Loosen the nuts that hold the posts in place.
After this, you need to loosen the wheel bolts.
Be sure to remove the handbrake cable, drums, tubes and hoses. Otherwise, you will damage them when removing the rear beam.
To remove the struts, you need to install a puller on the spring.
After this, you need to unscrew the lower bolt securing the shock absorber strut to the rear beam.
The top of the stand is secured with one nut.

Rear beam for VAZ 2112, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2110 from Priora

Today, the production of the domestic car VAZ-2110 has already been completed, and this model has been perfectly replaced by the modern LadaPriora car model. It is worth noting that as a result of this, for many owners of old “ten” cars, the spare parts of the new car are ideal for each other. Now we will try to figure out how to replace the rear beam. In addition, do not forget that along with replacing the beam, you can begin work on painting the entire body of your car. First, you need to understand what are the main distinguishing features of one rear beam from another. The beam of the Priora car is distinguished by the fact that it has a torsion bar, thanks to which it receives additional reinforcement during its movement.

But as for the replacement process, you need to prepare all the tools that may be needed to simplify the whole job. First, this is a wrench set.

Secondly, these are ring wrenches, it is also better if it is a whole set of them. Thirdly, wrenches for unscrewing brake pipes are very useful. In addition, you will need a spare part of a piece of pipe, but only for attaching keys to it.

To make it more convenient to unscrew the rear beam mount itself, you need to use a 19mm wrench, then unscrew the nuts and brake pipes. Do not forget that you need to remove the rod, at the end of which you can easily find a trim nut, which serves as a clamp.

Start disassembling the front suspension

All work must be done on an overpass or pit. When replacing the VAZ-2114 suspension, try to use special tools - this will make the work much easier. The sequence is something like this:

You definitely need to press the handbrake.
Secure the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
If decorative caps are installed on the rims, they must be removed.
If the wheel bearing is being replaced, you will need to unlock and slightly unscrew the nut in advance.
The wheel bolts also need to be loosened.
Having lifted my side of the car that is being repaired, it is necessary to completely unscrew the wheel mounting bolts and completely remove it.

You will need to remove the braces from the stabilizer link. After this, using a puller, the ball joint is disconnected from the steering knuckle. It is screwed from below with two bolts; they must be removed using a “17” key. Without this, it will not be possible to dismantle the VAZ-2114 suspension arm.

Auto repair school - Do-it-yourself car repair

Sep 26, 2016 VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2110, VAZ 1117 Kalina, VAZ 2170 Priora by admin

The rear beam silent blocks on VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2112, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115 vehicles must be replaced if: a characteristic knocking or squeaking sound of rubber appears in the rear of the car, during movement (especially when cornering), the car has lost stability of the rear axle, uneven wear of the rear wheels may also indicate a faulty silent block. How to change rear beam silent blocks ? What tool might you need for this? You will find answers to these questions in this article.

But let’s start, perhaps, with the choice of silent blocks . For VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099 it is necessary to buy silent blocks with catalog number - 2108 -2914054, and for VAZ-2110, VAZ-2112, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115 - 2110 -2914054. They differ from each other in outer diameter (the difference can be seen in photograph 1a). And if you try to install the rear silent blocks from the “Ten” on the VAZ-2109 beam (or vice versa), then an unpleasant surprise will await you. So, we try not to confuse anything.

Now about the tool. In addition to the standard set of tools, such as a pair of 19-mm spanners, a hammer and two jacks, you will also need: a wooden block and a device for pressing silent blocks . You can either buy this device or assemble it yourself. If the “buy” option does not suit you for some reason, then look at photo number 1 and remember the dimensions of the main parts: a bolt with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 170 mm, a ring-cage with a diameter of 50 mm and a height of 40 mm. All other parts of the device will be easy to select.

Step-by-step description of replacing rear beam silent blocks on VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2112, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115 :

Work on replacing silent blocks should be carried out on an overpass, inspection pit or lift.
Using wrenches “19”, unscrew the nuts from both bolts securing the rear beam to the bracket (on the left side, remove the fixing bracket and disconnect the rear brake pressure regulator rod from the beam) photo 2.
We take out the bolt and slightly raise the car with a jack, and move the beam eye down. And between the body and the beam we insert a wooden block (photo 3).
Next, using a hammer and drift we knock out the silent block (photo 4).
Before installing a new silent block , the beam eye and the silent block must be lubricated with a soap solution. Then, using the device shown in photo 1, we press in the silent block (see photo 5).
We remove the wooden block, use a second jack to lift the eye of the beam into the bracket and insert the bolt (photo 6).

All! The worst is over. Tighten the bolts securing the beam to the body bracket with the car completely lowered to the ground.

When using an article or photographs, an active direct hyperlink to the website www.avtorem.info is required!

Did you like the article? Share it on your page!

Description of the spare part

The rear beam on the VAZ 2114 is a steel element of the torsion bar suspension that provides connection between the rear part of the car body and the wheels. Gives the car lateral stability. Has a U-shaped section. It has high bending rigidity and low torsional rigidity. The design of the rear beam is simple.

The part consists of two longitudinal-type arms connected by welding. At the stern there are special holders with holes used for mounting shock absorber elements. There are also flanges with holes for fastening the axle of the rear pair of wheels. A malfunction of the rear beam is manifested by the knocking of wheels and abrasions on the body from tires.

Rear beam device

The metal rear beam, a photo of which is presented on our resource, is structurally represented by 2 longitudinal levers and connection elements, which are connected by welding through reinforcement components. At the rear of the product there are special holders with holes for mounting shock-absorbing elements. There are also flanges with holes for fastening the axles of the rear wheel pair together with the casings of the stern brake systems.

In the front part of the rear axle beam of the VAZ 2110 there are levers with welded bushings, in which rubber-metal type hinges are installed by pressing. The rear beam mounts pass through them, which connect the lever part of the stern suspension to stamped-welded type holders. Those, in turn, are mounted with welded bolts to the body side members.

The spring elements of the suspension rest with one plane on the support of the shock absorber strut, and with the other, through a rubber insulating gasket, into the welded support of the hidden arch of the body tail. The shock absorber strut of the rear suspension beam of the VAZ 2110 is a hydraulic telescopic system of a two-way operating principle.

Through fasteners in the form of a bolted connection, it is articulated with the holder of the longitudinal-type stern suspension arm. The upper fastener of the rack is made in the form of a pin connection, while the fastening of the rod to the upper support is made through rubber pads and a support washer.

The factory “tens” rear beam, the dimensions of which differ from the parameters of similar products, has the item number 2110-2914008, while the “eight” beam has the catalog number 2108-2914008-10.

Chassis of VAZ 2114: description, repair

Fundamentally, the chassis designs of front-wheel drive VAZ cars of various models are similar to each other, however, there are differences. It will be useful for car enthusiasts to understand the question of what the VAZ 2114 suspension consists of, to know the causes and types of malfunctions, and to be able to eliminate them.

Front suspension device

Suspension type: independent, telescopic. Let's take a closer look at the main components and elements that make up the front suspension of the VAZ 2114.

The basis is the main rotating support element - the front pillar. Assembled into a single unit with a cylindrical spring, a swivel bearing, and upper and lower support cups. The strut is attached to the steering knuckle of the hub with the lower bracket, secured to the body with three bolts at the top and rests against the glass with the upper cup. Has a steering knuckle for attaching a tie rod pin.
Front hub assembly with ball joint, double row bearing, brake disc and caliper. The ball joint is fixedly screwed to the lower suspension arm, the support pin is inserted into the seat at the bottom of the hub and screwed with a nut.
The lower suspension arm is attached to a brace, which is attached at both ends to the body side member using two brackets. On one side of the brace there is an attachment point for the anti-roll bar, in which one end is fixed. The second end of the stabilizer is fixed to the suspension extension of the second front wheel, thus connecting them together.

Front suspension diagram for VAZ 2114

The wheel is turned by a steering rod, which pulls the eye on the stand and turns the entire assembly, while at the top it turns on a support bearing, and at the bottom on a ball joint. The anti-roll bar ties the suspension on both sides together and makes it work in sync.

Rear element design

Suspension type: dependent, on a rigid transverse continuous beam. The structural elements of the rear suspension and the methods of their connection in the VAZ 2114 are as follows.

The base is a cross beam. The structure is welded, in the shape of the letter “H”, only with a long cross member. The two front ends of the beam are secured to brackets bolted to the rear side members of the vehicle. The method of connection to the brackets is hinged, on rubber-metal bushings. The rear ends of the beam have mounting flanges for wheel hubs. The hubs are bolted to the flange; a protective casing, brake cylinder and pads are mounted on them. Inside the hub there is a double row radial bearing. The brake drum is mounted on top of the pads and secured to the hub with guide pins.
The lower end of the strut with a cylindrical spring is attached to the rear ends of the beam on the other side of the hubs. The upper end of the shock absorber rests against a glass welded to the body through a rubber spacer.

Rear suspension diagram for VAZ 2114

The rear suspension diagram is shown in Fig. 2. The rear chassis of the VAZ 2114 car operates as follows: the transverse beam works like a swinging pendulum, the attachments to the side members do not allow it to move along the axis of the car. Racks with springs attached to the opposite end of the pendulum limit its up-and-down movement and serve as a shock-absorbing and partially supporting element for the wheels.

Brief description of faults

In most cases, chassis repairs can be done yourself. The main malfunctions, as a rule, are associated with the failure of the shock-absorbing front and rear struts, since they are the most loaded structural element. The racks absorb dynamic loads from the car body, from the wheels when overcoming uneven road surfaces and lateral loads from the influence of steering rods, which increases at low speeds.

Two tools are required to remove and install the stands. The remaining tools are in every car enthusiast's garage:

spring ties;
a puller for pushing the steering rod pin out of the lever; it can also be used to press out the ball joint if necessary.

Smaller suspension malfunctions occur due to wear of the rubber seals and rubber-metal bushings (silent blocks). They are much easier to replace than a stand, although sometimes a device is also needed to press out silent blocks.

Rear beam replacement procedure

While the car is on the ground, you need to loosen the nuts on the wheels, after which you can raise the car.
Remove the shock absorbers on both sides of the rear suspension.
Disconnect the parking brake cables and remove the cable jackets from the bracket located on the body.
Bend the brackets securing the cable to the body, then pull both cables out of the brackets. This is done to provide convenient access to the beam mounting bolt.
From the bracket, which is located on the rear axle beam, you need to disconnect the earring through which the elastic lever of the pressure regulator drive passes, which is connected to the lever bracket.
Disconnect the brake hoses from the tubes on both sides of the beam. To prevent brake fluid leakage, you must immediately close the holes with something.
On each side, unscrew one nut from the bolts securing the beams to the brackets.
Knock out the bolts (they can “sit” quite tightly, so you can hit them quite hard). After this, the beam can be removed, for which it can simply be rolled out on wheels.

Rear beam on a VAZ 2109 - installation and repair of the rear beam

It is more convenient to remove the rear axle from a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 on a lift. If it is not possible to place the car on a lift, carefully raise the rear of the car by placing a jack under the beam. Then install supports under the jack sockets on the car body.

USEFUL ADVICE When removing the rear axle, it is necessary to have assistants who will hold and lower the rear suspension beam. If, after removing the rear suspension beam, you intend to disassemble the rear beam, first loosen the wheel bolts and hub nuts.

WARNING Loosen and tighten wheel bolts only with the vehicle on the ground. The tightening torque of the bolts is 65-95 Nm (6.5-9.5 kgf-m).

1. Remove the tips of both parking brake cables from the equalizer and remove the cables from the holders on the bottom of the car (see “Parking brake” in section 8 “Brake system”).

2. Disconnect the brake hoses of the rear wheels from the pipelines on both sides of the car and the elastic arm of the pressure regulator from the bracket on the rear axle beam (see “Replacing the pressure regulator” in section 8 “Brake system”)...

3. Unscrew the nuts of the lower fastening of the rear struts, remove the bolts and disconnect the rear struts from the rear axle beam brackets on both sides of the VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099. Helpers should hold the rear beam.

4. Unscrew one nut on both sides of the bolts securing the rear beam to the brackets, knock out the bolts and remove the rear axle beam from the car by rolling the beam out from under the car on wheels.

USEFUL ADVICE The manufacturer recommends removing the rear axle beam along with the brackets from the VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 vehicle by unscrewing three nuts securing them. However, after prolonged use, rusted studs may break. Therefore, it is better to remove the rear axle beam by disconnecting the beam from the brackets that remain on the body.

5. Install the rear suspension beam on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 car in the reverse order of removal. Finally tighten the nuts of the rear beam mounting bolts with the vehicle standing on the ground. After installing the rear axle beam, bleed the brake system on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099 and adjust the parking brake.

Sources

tuningtaza.ru/replacement-beam-rear-suspension-on-car-VAZ-2108-VAZ-2109-VAZ-21099.html
expertvaz.ru/2109/zadnyaya-balka-remont.html
drive2.ru/l/535603451044823455/

Tags: rear beam came off, repair of mounting for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2113, 2114, 2115

Comments 34

It didn't hurt too bad

normal. everyone is alive and well. basin HFCH

The most important thing is that everything is fine)))

electrode MP-3 or some other?

No, esab’s ones are exclusive. MP3s blow God knows where. But these ones are just a fairy tale. The troika cooks almost the entire bodywork in my hands. Occasionally I cook one and a half www.esab.ru/ru/ru/

It's clear. I'll have to promote myself there additionally

our EVERYTHING was pushing!

I don’t know how the chisels work, but on my 12th coupe, no matter how you lift it, the doors close perfectly

into the jack or into the threshold? into the threshold through a meter board? specify...

I always put it in the threshold, I don’t put anything in it. Only a diamond jack with a recess for the threshold

I think that the thresholds have already been changed, and a thick amplifier has been welded in. You shouldn’t exaggerate the capabilities of the Lada

I’m the only owner, only if someone cooked it at night while I was sleeping))) I can, of course, not be lazy and shoot a video tomorrow or the day after tomorrow

come on, jack the end of the door into the threshold, and hang out the whole side.

well, a jack at the end of the door is not a problem, but hanging the side with such a jack simply won’t work

come on, jack the end of the door into the threshold, and hang out the whole side.

counter question, why didn’t they show the whole side on the video?

Then I’ll try to hang the whole side with a normal jack, I’m even curious)))

from 2 approaches to the front jack - the entire side is hung

Well done, I wasn’t afraid, of course I almost got to this point, the new spar was torn, I also opened it from the interior, reinforced it with plates, since one pin attaching the beam to the spar was torn off (thanks to the stampers for their contact welding of these pins), it was drilled right through hole, and pulled off the pin with engravers, and drove for six months with a torn spar =) the beam also danced and the car was constantly chattering, there is also a blog entry if you’re interested

I've already done everything. Just for fun, I'll take a look at it in my spare time.

meh. . . there is hard work. )) And what did you use to weld the damaged areas, I see that it was electric welding? )

The rear beam of the VAZ 2109 is an unreliable thing, and the owners of this car may have a large number of reasons to remove it. For example, the owner of a vehicle may hear unusual noises: grinding metal, quiet impacts, etc. These “special effects” will be heard in the rear of the VAZ 2109. The sound can be either constant or occur occasionally, for example, when there are bumps on the road.

1 — rubber-metal hinge; 2 — rear suspension arm mounting bracket; 3 — shock absorber casing; 4 — compression stroke buffer; 5 — casing cover; 6 — support washer; 7 — shock absorber cushions; 8 — spacer sleeve; 9 — shock absorber; 10 - insulating gasket; 11 — rear suspension spring; 12 — lever connector; 13 — rear suspension beam arm; 14 — shock absorber mounting bracket; 15 - flange; 16 — lever bushing

Why change silent blocks

Before you begin replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam on the VAZ 2110, you need to figure out why a similar procedure is being carried out in general.

In reality, it is not always silent blocks that cause car problems. But there are situations in which repairs should be performed immediately.

When traveling, the tires begin to squeak. If the silent blocks are out of order, they cannot move at once with the wheels, they are inferior in rotation speed, which is why noise appears.
Knocks are heard from the rear of the car.
The car is difficult to control, the rear end constantly wobbles, and it is difficult to take turns.
There is uneven wear on the rear tires; they lose their quality faster than the front tires.
In some cases, tires are deflated, although there is no damage.

A lightweight method for replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ

2108, 2109, 21099,
2110
, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115.

Replacement of silent blocks of the rear beam of VAZ 2108-2115

Withdrawal procedure

Raise and secure the rear of the car.
Remove the left wheel.
Disconnect the elastic pressure lever from the earring.
Remove the left parking brake cable from the 2 brackets on the left rear suspension arm.
Using 19mm wrenches, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body bracket.
We take out the bolt. Pull the lever down so that the brake hose is not stretched. We install the cup of a special puller on the outside, and a special washer on the inside.
Rotating the nut of the puller bolt, press the silent block into the cup. You need to press the silent block towards the threshold.

Replacement of silent blocks of the rear beam of VAZ 2114

The process of replacing worn suspension elements should begin after reading the following instructions:

Raise the car on a jack and secure it with blocks.
Remove the wheel and disconnect the elastic lever with the earring from the beam.
Remove the handbrake cables from the fasteners (on the left lever).
Using a wrench set to “19”, unscrew the nut securing the lever to the body.
Remove the mounting bolt and bend the beam so that the brake hose is not under tension. Install a special puller for easy removal of the old silent tape.
By rotating the nut securing the special puller, squeeze out the old rubber element into the cup of the device. Pressing is carried out in the direction of the car threshold.

The considered process for removing the old element is applicable if you have a puller. In its absence, the work of pressing out will become more difficult. There are a lot of options online using improvised tools as an alternative to a puller.

The process of installing a new element is as follows:

Treat the surface of the silent tape with soapy water.
Having installed the puller on the inside of the lever, proceed to pressing in the new part.
Install the lever securing bolt, but do not tighten the nut on it.
Return the elastic lever of the pressure regulator to its place and lock it.
Install the handbrake cables in their original place.
Put the wheel in place and remove the car from the jack.
Shake the car body several times. This is necessary to ensure that all suspension parts fall into place.
Tighten the fastening nut.

The procedure for replacing the silencer on the other side is similar. If it is impossible to unscrew the bolt securing the rear beam, you can cut it off with a grinder, and then install new fasteners. Because The rear suspension in the “four” is quite reliable; infrequent maintenance leads to soured fasteners, nuts and bolts. You can do the suspension maintenance work yourself, but you should take into account the time spent that will be needed to disassemble and remove old rusted elements.