How does the stop signal work on the VAZ 2114 spoiler?

The topic of this article is the step-by-step repair of the VAZ 2110 steering rack. Often the cause of such a malfunction is driving on a not very smooth road with bumps and holes. And not a single bump that the car encounters passes without leaving a trace.

The driver may hear knocking sounds from the front of the vehicle. The sounds may become more strange, intrusive and constant. An inexperienced motorist will find it difficult to come up with a verdict as to what is the cause of such knocking noises, but a person with experience in such matters will confidently say that the problem is in the design of the VAZ 2110 steering rack.

But you shouldn’t immediately rush to the service station. Experts will most likely recommend that you immediately completely replace the steering rack. And this, in turn, will be very good for your pocket. There is a very real opportunity to cope with this problem on your own. The material provided below will help you fully diagnose and eliminate the problem of a faulty VAZ 2110 steering rack.

Repair

The first thing you will need to carry out your own repairs is a repair kit. They are available at almost any auto parts store. However, we strongly recommend that you buy only high-quality kits so that the result of your DIY repair lasts as long as possible.

What you need for work

The proposed kits are incomplete and complete. You will definitely need the following kit components:

• Needle bearing;
• A pair of rubber seals for the bushing;
• Support sleeve made of plastic;
• Set of gaskets;
• Spring;
• Retaining rings;
• Support bearing;
• Drive gear;
• Boot cover;
• Rail;
• Set of ties for the boot.

Repair kit Now that the kit is ready, the tools are available, and there is enough free time, you can get to work.

1. First, remove the boot, end caps and stops. As you disassemble elements, even the smallest and insignificant at first glance, be sure to evaluate their current condition. If necessary, all worn-out elements will be replaced with new ones taken from the repair kit.
2. Using an octagon, unscrew the screw plugs, which will allow you to remove the springs, retaining rings, and thrust bushings.
3. Remove the bearing and check if it has any play. The repair kit includes a new bearing, so if the old component is in satisfactory condition, it is better to replace it immediately. It’s not for nothing that you took on such a complex process to get everything done 50%.
4. Remove and inspect the drive gear. Next, you can completely remove the rail itself.
5. Be sure to replace the support shaft bushing, not forgetting about the rubber bands. They are also included in the kit.
6. Take your time to remove the rubber bands from the sleeve. First, insert the element into the crankcase, after which you can cut off the elastic with scissors or a sharp knife.
7. The most difficult step is replacing the needle bearing. To remove it, you will need a special key. But you can do without it. In this case, arm yourself with a 1.5 mm drill bit and a drill. Using a drill, make a hole in such a way as to loosen the end of the bearing. Use a punch to knock out the old bearing from the crankcase.
8. Before installing the new needle bearing, be sure to thoroughly clean the steering rack housing of accumulated debris and steel shavings from drilling.
9. The hole made cannot be left. To eliminate it, you can mix metal filings with superglue. This mixture will harden quickly and give an excellent result.
10. Lubricate literally everything that can be lubricated in the steering rack assembly. Experts advise using Litol 24 or other lubricants of similar quality. It wouldn't hurt to lubricate the CV joints.
11. Reassemble the unit by following the reverse sequence of dismantling.

If you don’t have a key to remove the needle, repairing the steering rack yourself allows you to significantly save on replacement, plus gain a lot of experience in performing far from the simplest work related to your VAZ 2109. But you can do it easier, without taking any risks, by contacting a trusted car service center.

Unit in a vice

Checking status

Having completed the repair, you should not think that now the steering rack will serve tens of thousands of kilometers and will no longer cause you trouble. Like many other components, the condition of the rack must be periodically monitored.

What to look for

Your actions

Mounting nuts and bolts

These fasteners are subject to vibration after repair as they are used. Therefore, it is recommended to check and tighten them every 250-300 kilometers.

You can check it a little less often, approximately every 500-1000 kilometers, depending on the operating conditions of your car. Due to different quality, some anthers can last quite a long time, while others will require replacement after 10 thousand kilometers. The choice is yours which parts to use

The rack itself should be constantly monitored

Listen to the behavior of the steering mechanism, pay attention to the above signs of malfunction. As part of a scheduled technical inspection, be sure to include a check of the steering racks in the list of activities.

The repair cannot be called complicated, but it takes a lot of time

Plus, it is extremely important to perform all operations as carefully and efficiently as possible. Otherwise, the result will not last long and you will soon have to interfere with the design of the VAZ 2109 steering unit again

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Signs of breakdown

By means of steering racks, rotational movements from the steering wheel through a rack and pinion mechanism are transmitted to the rotary levers, which turn the front wheels with rods.

If you find one of the symptoms listed below on your car, be sure to conduct a full diagnosis of the condition of the unit, and then repair it.

Signs of a faulty steering rack include:

• A grinding noise is observed in the rack area when the steering wheel is rotated;
• The steering wheel periodically sticks;
• Lubricant begins to leak from the seals;
• The steering wheel has noticeable play.

These symptoms may also indicate problems in other components of the steering mechanism, but first you must check the condition of the rack, disassemble it and decide whether to replace or repair it.

Node diagram

Diagnosing the malfunction

Like any other mechanism, the steering rack fails sooner or later.

A similar mechanism is present in any car, both equipped with electric and hydraulic booster and without it.

Muffled sounds and impacts can be felt when driving over uneven surfaces, and can also be transmitted to the steering wheel.

The malfunction manifests itself in a similar way when the car is stationary and the steering wheel is turned.

When turning the steering wheel, a significantly increased force may still be observed.

These main symptoms indicate that the steering rack needs to be repaired, no matter what brand of car they appeared on: VAZ 2110 or another model.

To determine the state of this node, we do the following.

Grasp the steering shaft where it meets the rack.

Jiggle it up and down. If a knocking noise occurs, this is evidence that either repair of the steering rack housing will be necessary, or a possible cause of the knocking may be a lack of lubrication in the so-called needle bearing.

Lubricate the bearing or replace this part.

The next step is to check the bushing for play and the contact of the rack with the steering gear.

To do this, grab the joint of the steering rods in the engine compartment and try to move the steering shaft.

This may result in insufficient tightening of the knots, which is not a big problem.

If knocking noises are definitely heard from the rack, then this particular mechanism is faulty and the steering rack will have to be repaired or replaced with a new one.

Now you must make a decision about which path to take next.

Of course, buying a new rack will be the best option, but also the most expensive.

Repairing the slats from specialists allows you to get by with a smaller, but still impressive amount.

There is also no guarantee how long the rake will last after restoration.

The most cost-effective solution will definitely be to do the repairs yourself.

Replacing the steering column of a VAZ 2107

Replacing a steering column is a rather difficult task, but it can be done independently if you have some experience in car repair. You will need the following tools:

• Wrenches 17 (socket and open-end).
• Socket heads for 17 and 30.
• Handle with ratchet.
• Mount.
• Hammer.
• Collar.

The column is removed in the following order:

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel.
3. Remove the steering shaft housing.
4. Remove the wire block from the ignition switch.
5. Remove the ignition switch.
6. Remove the steering column switches.
7. Remove the steering shaft clamped in the column.
8. Using a 30mm socket and a powerful wrench, unscrew the steering column mounting nut. The tightening force here is significant, so the knob must be a fairly long lever. If you can’t unscrew it, you can lengthen the knob by putting a piece of pipe on it.
9. Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the column to the body. The procedure is not easy - the distance between the parts and the body is too small, the bolts are difficult to keep from turning. A handle with a ratchet will come in handy here, which will speed up the process.
10. Remove the column from the shaft. To do this, you need to knock the column off the tie rod splines using a pry bar. This must be done in jerks, resting your feet on the body.
11. Unscrew and remove the shaft seal installed at the bottom of the column.

After dismantling the old column, it is necessary to clean the seat from dirt. Before installing a new column, you should check the condition of its hinge joints and needle bearings. If everything is in order, you can begin installation, which is done in the reverse order of removal.

When installing a new VAZ 2107 steering column, you must pay special attention to ensure that all fastening bolts and nuts are well tightened. Considering how important this unit is for driving a car, play, and even more so, slippage of the steering column splines can lead to tragic consequences

When installing the steering wheel, pay attention to the position of its spokes. After completing the installation of parts and connecting the wire block to the ignition switch, you can connect the battery

Column replacement completed

After completing the installation of parts and connecting the wire block to the ignition switch, you can connect the battery. Column replacement is complete.

Why do you need to adjust the front wheel alignment yourself on a Lada 2107?

Violations in wheel alignment create a whole bunch of negative consequences that directly affect the level of car controllability:

1. Inadequate reaction of the car to steering wheel turns - wheels leaving the chosen trajectory, skidding and loss of directional stability.
2. Wear of front suspension components: bearings in hubs and articulated joints.
3. Increased tire wear.

An untimely do-it -yourself alignment on a VAZ 2107 may entail replacing the supports or their bearings, which means significant financial expenses. The factor of damaged tires, which, at incorrect angles, lose their quality in just a few months, will not add to optimism. We must not forget about the procedure for adjusting caster in the event of body repairs after an accident or replacement of front suspension parts.

Manufacturer's recommendations

Modern car enthusiasts have already forgotten the standards for carrying out maintenance on the “Seven”, but in vain. According to the manufacturer’s recommendations, adjustments to wheel alignment values ​​are carried out after 10,000 km , and the angle values ​​must correspond to the following indicators:

• The camber angle is 4°30'+20′ or 0°5'+20′ when the vehicle is unloaded.
• Wheel toe - for a loaded car 2-4 mm or 3-5 mm for an unloaded car.
• Castor – 4°±30′ for a loaded car or 3°±30′ for an empty car.

Eliminating backlash

Of course, major repairs are not necessary in every case, and replacement of component parts is also not always necessary, because:

• On the VAZ 2109, the steering rack is adjustable, and if you know how to tighten the steering rack mechanism, then you can remove steering knocks without any financial investment at all
• This is possible, of course, if the knocking is caused by operational or factory control play
• To adjust, you should use a trestle or inspection hole, find the adjusting nut under a layer of dirt, then use a special wrench “17” to tighten it

We disassemble the rack

When you have eliminated the play, but the knocking has not disappeared, then the steering rack on the VAZ 2109 must be disassembled and repaired:

• Repairing the rack yourself will not be difficult, of course, if you know in what sequence the operations need to be performed
• First, we remove the steering rack, and if everything is in order with the rods, then it is not necessary to remove them, just unscrew them from the unit and that’s it
• Then we clamp it in a vice or in a special device for repair.
• And then remove the clamps securing the protective cap, boot, right support and spacer ring
• Subsequently, all other parts are removed (photo with diagram below), including complete pressing out of the bearings
• Then the parts should be cleaned of dirt as thoroughly as possible, followed by washing them in kerosene
• And after cleaning all the parts, they should be very carefully inspected for signs of tears or other damage.
• If small scuffs can be easily removed with sandpaper, all heavily worn parts, and especially damaged ones, must be replaced
• The same approach applies to bearing troubleshooting.
• In their particular case, if there is the slightest doubt about the performance of these devices, parts should be replaced immediately
• You should also understand that tightening the steering rack itself, the procedure, in principle, is not a difficult operation to perform with your own hands
• But disassembling the steering wheel, and even more so replacing it, may require special skills from you; in addition, you will need competent instructions
• When you have absolutely no time or desire to carry out such operations yourself, or you do not want to delve into all the intricacies of this process, then the best option for you would be to perform all repair work in a specialized automobile workshop
• You, of course, understand that the price of specialist services will cost more than self-repair
• Moreover, the amount of the invoice that you will receive may vary greatly.
• For example, carrying out troubleshooting is one cost, but a complete repair is a completely different one.

Schematic structure of the steering rack, it clearly shows what is removed and then put back on

• It is worth noting that the steering rack is not the cheapest component of a car, so few people dare to replace the whole thing right away.
• Everyone starts by trying to repair the existing device.
• It happens that it is enough to simply adjust it so that the malfunction disappears, or perform a partial repair by replacing the bearings
• Of course, the diagnostic procedure, as well as subsequent repairs, is impossible without disassembling
• Only by disassembling the steering rack will you get a complete picture of the condition of its parts, which parts require improvement (grinding, for example), and which should definitely be replaced
• Repair in almost any case will be much cheaper than a complete replacement
• And if you repair the rack yourself, you will also save on the cost of auto mechanic services
• To carry out independent repairs, as has been mentioned more than once, you will need a repair kit, specific keys, as well as a set of bearings and grease.
• Not a lot of money is spent on purchasing components
• However, if you have replaced all the bearings, as well as seals and lubrication, and still have problems with the operation of the machine, then you will still need the services of specialists to determine the exact cause of the failure or replace the “serious” (major) components
• The most remarkable thing is that in the conditions of the modern total “deficit” of finance, a complete replacement of the entire unit is resorted to only in extreme cases, when there is nothing left to repair in the old one

Applicability

Where else is the spare part used?

The parts data presented on this page is for informational purposes only.

Removing the steering wheel.

Probably one of the most significant elements in the steering circuit is the steering wheel. The steering wheel is usually removed to replace the shaft and contact ring of the horn switch.

Next, we will tell you how to remove the steering wheel and provide explanations with pictures. So, the tools you will need are a 24mm socket with an extension and a screwdriver. Before starting work, set the front wheels straight, and do not change position until the steering wheel is in its original place.

Pry up the decorative trim on the horn switch with your hand.

Take it off

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when removing the lining you should be careful not to break it

The steering wheel hub and steering shaft should be marked so that their relative position can be determined in the future. The exception would be the case of a complete replacement of the steering wheel.

Attach the socket with extension and unscrew the steering wheel fastening nut

Disconnect the electrical wire to avoid damaging the steering wheel when removing it. Using a sharp blow from bottom to top, remove the steering wheel from the splines.

Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the horn contact ring.

Some batches of cars were produced with slight differences, such as a double cavity on the steering wheel hub, and a double spline at the upper end of the shaft. All this is to place the steering wheel in a strictly defined position.

After the steering wheel has been installed in place, you must ensure that it is in the correct position on the shaft. When the car is moving in a straight line, the steering arms must be in a strictly horizontal position. This is necessary for clear automatic switching off of the direction indicator.

When finally installing the steering wheel, tighten the steering wheel mounting nut in this position.

Hello, in this article you will learn how to replace the steering wheel on VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107 cars. Of course, removing the steering wheel is not a common operation, but it still happens that you have to remove the steering wheel to restore the audio signal wiring , or to replace the old steering wheel with a new one when it is very worn out, although now the steering wheel is more often changed to a “sports” one. To replace the steering wheel you will need a 24mm socket and a slotted screwdriver. Before you start replacing the steering wheel, you need to align the wheels and steering wheel straight, this is necessary so that when installing the steering wheel in place, you do not lose its normal position. Now take a slotted screwdriver and remove the plug in the center of the steering wheel

After this, use a 24mm socket to unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft

But you shouldn’t completely unscrew the nut right away; first knock the steering wheel off the steering shaft, and then unscrew the nut completely, otherwise you can get injured when knocking the steering wheel out

Installing the steering wheel is done in the reverse order, the main thing is to make sure that the protrusions on the steering shaft lining align with the slots on the steering wheel

Avtochanel

From this article you will learn how to remove the steering wheel on a VAZ 2101-2107 car, what tools are required for this, and most importantly, how to avoid injury while carrying out this work.

Removing and installing the steering wheel can be done for several reasons:

• replacing a conventional steering wheel with a new or sports version
• After adjusting the wheel alignment angles (wheel alignment), you need to set the steering wheel to the correct position
• it is necessary to remove the steering wheel to gain access to replacing other parts, for example, steering column switches

The procedure for removing the steering wheel:

• Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery so that when working with the steering wheel you do not accidentally turn on the sound signal.
• Use a screwdriver to remove the plug in the center of the steering wheel. (Fig. 1)
• Using a 24mm socket wrench, unscrew the steering wheel mounting nut. (Fig. 2)
• Remove the steering wheel. (Fig. 3)

Completing of the work

Cleaning the breather on the VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107 is carried out during a scheduled engine oil change. Unscheduled cleaning should be done if oil begins to leak through the gaskets or the outlet hoses are cracked, which indicates an increase in gas pressure in the crankcase. The crankcase exhaust hoses are disconnected, one of which goes to the carburetor, and the second to the air filter. Next, the nut holding the breather is unscrewed, for which the dipstick for checking the oil level in the engine is first removed. After removing the cover, sediment formed as a result of engine operation can be seen in the opened space. It can almost completely block the lumen, significantly complicating the movement of crankcase gases, which leads to an increase in pressure in the system.

After removing the lid, the opened glass must be thoroughly washed; at its bottom, a 13 nut holding the pin will appear, which can be carefully unscrewed with an open-end wrench. If problems arise with this, you can screw two 13mm nuts onto the top of the stud, which need to be counterlocked. Then, using these nuts, carefully, so as not to break them, the pin is unscrewed.

The glass, as a rule, sticks to the place of attachment, so it is better to tear it off with two small pliers, grabbing it by the edges. The removed parts of the breather must be placed in a container of sufficient volume filled with kerosene, gasoline or other washing liquid. A trimmed plastic bottle with a volume of 5-6 liters is perfect.

While the glass is being washed, the place where the breather is attached is thoroughly cleaned with a rag containing cleaning liquid. When working, you need to be very careful so that dirt and rag particles do not get inside the engine. The hole where the pin is screwed in should not be cleaned too thoroughly so that dirt does not get into the engine from it. After cleaning, there should be no soot or other deposits left on the surface of the breather.

Which steering rack to install on a VAZ 2109, when to replace it?

The original number of the steering rack is 21080-3400012-10, the average price is 3462 rubles.

• Trialli CR 108 — 2451 rub.
• Pilenga SR-P 1141 — 2436 rub.
• BM SR 2108 — 2887 rub.

Replacement frequency - check at every scheduled maintenance. The average service life is over 100 thousand km.

First of all, we lift the front of the car to achieve full lift of both front wheels. Anti-slope bars should be placed under the rear wheels.

Remove the front wheels. At the same time, we check the condition of the anthers on the steering fingers.

Now you need to gain access to the steering rack mount. It is necessary to disconnect the gas adsorber, as well as the alarm siren, if available and installed in this particular location. We remove the terminal with the wires from the adsorber, and, as far as the hoses allow, we move them to the side.

After removing these components, access to the steering rack mount is free.

If you install a used steering rack, you should pay attention to the condition of the boot boot and steering rod silent blocks. Now set the steering wheel to a neutral position (when the wheels look straight)

Using a spanner wrench or a head to the universal joint, unscrew the bolt from the splined joint, which is located near the pedal assembly

Now set the steering wheel to a neutral position (when the wheels look straight). Using a spanner wrench or a socket to the universal joint, unscrew the bolt from the splined joint, which is located near the pedal assembly.

We clean the tie rod attachment to the car suspension struts from dirt.

After the fastening units are cleaned, use pliers to remove the locking pin from the joint.

Unscrew the steering tip nut.

Next we install the puller.

Tighten the puller nut and gently tap the puller from underneath with a hammer until the tie rod pins come out of the cone joint.

Now, back under the hood, you need to unscrew the nuts on the steering rack.

Using a screwdriver, pull the steering rack off its mounts.

We pull it out through the window in the wheel well.

Let's start installing the steering rack. In order to catch the required middle position of the steering rack, you must first install the steering pins in the racks, after which we install the shaft on the splines in the cabin. The steering shaft in the cabin has free movement, making it easy to install it in the required position. Be careful, there is a groove in the steering rack for the clamp bolt, and you need to install it so that the clamp is opposite the groove, this will allow you to install the bolt back without any extra effort.

Now we assemble the entire steering unit in reverse order.

Preparatory stage and scheme for adjusting front wheel alignment angles on Lada 2107

Balanced wheels, tires with optimal air pressure and a level surface are not a complete list of necessary conditions when adjusting the wheel alignment yourself will go without errors. No less important are seemingly insignificant factors:

• No excessive play in the front suspension components.
• Normal steering free play.
• Tightening level of chassis connections.
• The depreciation system is in good condition.

In order for the chassis settings to be correct, it is advisable to load the car: put 60-70 kg on each seat, and 40-50 kg in the trunk. Actually, adjustments can be made with an empty car, but it is hardly possible to call it accurate. The geometry established in the manufacturer's documentation is carried out according to the scheme: castor - camber - toe.

Removing the steering rack of VAZ 2109, 2110

The car must be immobilized - to do this, it is placed on the handbrake and stops are placed under the wheels.

Next, the front of the car is jacked up on both sides and the front wheels are removed.

Then the bolts securing the ball joints of the mechanism to the steering knuckles are unscrewed. Next, the supports need to be pulled out of their seats; a puller is used for this.

The next step is to unscrew the bolt securing the steering column to the gear shaft of the mechanism. It is located in the cabin near the floor, where the column shaft enters the floor. The bolt is completely unscrewed and removed.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts of the brackets that secure the mechanism to the rear wall. The staples are also removed. After this, you need to pull the mechanism down and onto the engine to remove the gear shaft from its seat in the column shaft.

Having disconnected the mechanism from the steering column, you can remove it through the technological hole in the fender liners through which the steering rods come out.

After removing the steering mechanism, it is clamped in a vice, then the bolts securing the steering rods are unscrewed and they are removed.

The process of removing the rack

You can begin repairs only after removing this mechanism.

Dismantling can be done either by removing the rack with or without rods.

For the first option, you will need to press out the pins of the outer rod ends.

The second method will require disconnecting the inner tips.

• Unscrew the elastic coupling bolt in the passenger compartment using a 13-mm open-end wrench;

• take a 13 key and in the engine compartment on both sides loosen the nuts securing the steering rack brackets;

• bending the edges of a special plate that prevents the bolts from unwinding themselves, we unscrew the latter from the body;

• To remove the steering rack without any problems, wedge the intermediate shaft mount;

• remove the splined end of the gear from the hole by moving the steering rack forward and remove the latter;

• The steering gear housing should be clamped in a vice with soft jaws, something like this;

• remove the spacer ring and support from the right side of the steering rack housing;

• we find clamps on the protective cover and safely cut them off, since they are disposable;

• the protective cover should be removed from the support;
• on the left side you need to remove the support and the protective cap;
• The rack stop nut will require a special tool in the form of a 17 octagonal head to unscrew.

Adjustment methods

The steering rack can be adjusted in two ways.

Adjustment method

Peculiarities

If the rack is removed and adjusted, we are most often talking about repairing or replacing the unit with a new one. It is recommended to carry out such settings only in these situations

Without dismantling the unit

This method of adjustment is relevant if it is necessary to tighten the rack slightly, remove play, and get rid of knocking noises. Here it is quite possible to do without dismantling work, that is, to set up the mechanism directly on the car

Malfunctions

There are several typical steering rack malfunctions that VAZ 2109 owners encounter. In some situations, simple adjustments can be done, while in others, more detailed intervention in the design of the unit and its components will be required.

Steering rack breakdowns are as follows:

• The steering rack fastenings are loose;
• The rack itself or its gears have worn out;
• Pair engagement is not adjusted properly;
• The bushings at the junction of the rack and steering rods have worn out.

It is not always possible to adjust the rack to eliminate its incorrect operation. This occurs due to the fact that an impressive production of components is formed inside. This can only be determined by dismantling. Therefore, if the adjustment does not bring the expected effect, you will have to remove the rack from the car and check what is wrong with it.

Additional Description

Starter

Accessories:

— drive 426.3708600 — relay 426.3708800 — armature 426.3708200 — drive side cover 426.3708400 — coil side cover 42.3708300 — traverse 426.3708310 — coil 425.3708110-10 — relay cover 63 .3708890 - relay coil 42.3708880

Starter 426.3708 is designed to start the engines of VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109 cars and their modifications operating at ambient temperatures from -40°C to +45°C and humidity up to 90±5% at a temperature of 27±2°C, including including cars supplied for export, as well as spare parts for them.

The starter is a DC electric motor with an electromagnetic relay and a freewheel. Available in a single design and designed for use in temperate and tropical climates. The starter is a restored, serviceable product.

The starter operating mode is short-term, lasting up to 10 s. At subzero temperatures, operating time up to 15 s is allowed. The starter is powered by a 55 Ah battery.

The starter has been tested and approved by AvtoVAZ JSC in Togliatti, which is the main consumer.

Specifications

Information used: JSC "BATE"

Preparation for repair

Since we are talking about intervention in the steering system, suspension, special attention should be paid to preparation

1. If you have a lift or inspection pit, you will be able to perform operations much faster and easier, which is the most important thing.
2. Be sure to get a set of sockets and spanners. It is extremely difficult to work without them. In addition to the wrenches, you will need wire cutters, pliers, a hammer, a flat head screwdriver, and a tie rod end remover.
3. To remove all fasteners that have been tightened for a long time, a can of WD40 will certainly not hurt. It removes oxidation from nuts and removes rust. In addition to the almighty WD40, buy graphite lubricant or grease. By treating the fasteners with them, you will be able to remove them much easier in the future.
4. The presence of rags, a metal brush, fresh gasoline or solvent is welcome.
5. Ask your friend to help you with your work. It's much easier to change steering wheels with four hands.

Be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery in order to de-energize the car. We don't want short circuits or burned out wiring.

Repair kit

Hanging the axle

To safely and independently change the steering rack in your own garage, it is extremely necessary to correctly and securely hang the front axle of the car.

Sometimes this issue is not given due attention, as a result of which the car falls, this leads, at best, to damage to the elements of the car, and at worst, to injuries to the repairer himself.

In order to do everything in accordance with safety standards, you need to:

• Place your VAZ 2109 on a level surface. Typically, garage floors are fairly level;
• Install wheel chocks, shoes, bars or other similar means under the rear wheels. Block each wheel front and rear;
• Pull the handbrake all the way to stop the wheels. Just make sure first that the handbrake works;
• Set the steering wheel in neutral position;
• Slightly loosen the fasteners on the wheels;
• The front of the car needs to be raised. Here it is better to use two reliable jacks at once;
• Near the jacks, additionally place metal stops that are adjustable. If there are no special devices, an ordinary block of wood, boards or some kind of stump will do. The main thing is that when you make contact with the body, when you pull or push it, the car does not tip over;
• Remove the front wheels completely and begin replacing the steering racks.

Optimal working conditions

Dismantling

Before installing a new steering rack, you need to get rid of the old one. For this:

1. Get to the place where the rack is attached in the engine compartment. To do this, you will probably have to remove the alarm and gas adsorber, at the same time dismantling the hoses.
2. Disconnect the rack from the steering column shaft. Before this, the plastic casing is removed, blocking the path to the spline joints. The rack shaft is released by unscrewing one bolt.
3. Next, remove the steering ends from the levers. Here haste can significantly harm you. Gradually brush the threaded connections, tip pin and mounting nut with a metal brush. Then apply WD40 to these areas. Give the product a little time to react. Then you can use pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cotter pin from the connection. Once the solvent has taken effect, the nuts should come off without much effort.
4. If the tip is in normal condition, it is recommended to remove this element from the strut lever with a puller. A more barbaric method can lead to damage, so you will have to change the tips.
5. Unscrew the rack fasteners using keys. It is better to treat them with WD40 in advance.
6. After unscrewing the nuts, pry the steering rack with a flat screwdriver and remove it from the studs.
7. Call a partner to work together to remove the element through the opening in the wheel arch.

FakeHeader

Comments 26

Please help me with advice. In the spring, the service center condemned the steering rods. I bought ASAM 70530 rods. After replacing the rods, they started doing camber and couldn’t set the steering wheel straight. One of the rods was cut (I don’t know which one), it became better, but the steering wheel did not stand perfectly straight. There was quite a bit of play in the steering wheel and I drove until the summer without even feeling that the steering wheel was a little crooked (this was simply not visible due to the play in the steering wheel). Recently I felt a grinding and clanking noise when turning the steering wheel. On the bumps, too, in the area of ​​​​the river, something rattled. There were knocking noises when the steering wheel was swayed. I bought a bushing for the steering rack from a BMW, rubber rings for it from VAZ wells, an acquaintance gave me his used rack, which did not play or rattle, but its shaft was rusty. With all this, I went to a friend’s service center (they don’t do slats there, but they promised to help with the repairs). They took my rack off. After disassembling it, it was revealed that the needle bearing of the worm shaft had fallen apart and all the needles had spilled into the rack. The worm was all chewed up, but the rack shaft itself remained intact. The upper ball bearing was very loose and the rack bushing turned into a sponge, although it remained intact. In general, we assembled one of two slats, washed everything and coated it well. We set it approximately so that both ends of the rack shaft protruded from the body equally and gave it to the mechanics to install the rack back on the car. After the rail was installed they began to do the camber. The steering wheel did not stand straight at all. It costs about 45% to the left. The mechanic said that the left rod is completely tightened and the right one is screwed in. They say there is nowhere to regulate further. I drove for a day and this time I clearly feel that when the car drives straight, the steering wheel is crooked. All the play in the steering wheel went away after the rack was rebuilt. The car doesn't go anywhere if you let go of the steering wheel. I returned to the service center and told the locksmiths this. They said that you can turn the steering wheel a little on the splines of the steering shaft (if there are double splines, they can be sawed off). But if you turn the steering wheel on the steering shaft, the steering column cable may break (although it can probably break now because the steering wheel turns 1.5 turns in one direction and a quarter turn more in the other direction)? Or they say you can try swapping the rods and suddenly something will change. Or perhaps when assembling the rack we missed one tooth of the rack with a worm

How can I fix this now? I would really appreciate your help

Sorry, I didn’t understand, should there be a bushing without cuts? Today I bought this repair kit, but there is a bushing with gaps one to one like from a BMW, but the inside diameter dangles more on the rack shaft, somehow they stuffed it there without rubber bands, and at the end it burst, so I didn’t understand if there was any play, a day remained, how did you stuff it into the rack with rubber bands, and can you be more specific about which bushing from the 10k?

Welcome! Steering rod silent blocks - They consist mostly of rubber, the rubber hardens over time, which is why it cracks later, which is why there is play in the steering wheel (If the silent blocks are in good condition, then take a look at the steering rack, because of it too there may be some play, read the article: “Adjusting the rack on the tenth family”) and by the way, if the rods in your city don’t cost much money, then we recommend that you immediately buy them entirely with silent blocks, because when everything is manufactured at the factory, it will be better.

When is VAZ 2109 rack repair required?

Steering rack repair may be required if certain elements of the mechanism wear out or fail. This can be determined by various symptoms, if identified, it is necessary to stop operating the vehicle and carry out repair work. Problems with the steering rack are indicated by:

• increased steering play;
• noise or knocking in the steering system;
• steering wheel rotation is too tight.

It should be noted that the steering system is connected to some structural elements of the car, so during repairs it is necessary to check the condition of the steering rods, wheels, and also the steering column control unit.

So, if you are sure that your steering rack on a VAZ 2109 requires repair, you will have to first remove and disassemble the rack, and then carry out repair work and install the mechanism in place.

View analogues:

Radiator frame

This body part of the “tens” is called a TV. The element is replaced in the event of a strong front impact, when the “original” part is easier to replace than to repair.

As a rule, in an accident during a frontal impact, the upper frame and the beam, which serves as a reinforcement for the bumper, are most deformed. But the TV is changing completely in any case.

According to experts, replacing a TV on a “ten” is much easier than on a “nine” or other models released by AvtoVAZ earlier. This is explained by the simplicity of the design of the “Desyatovskaya” radiator frame.

Note. In some cases, you can find the upper frame and lower beam separately for sale.

The TV is mounted to the body using welding points. They are located in 4 places - the radiator frame is attached in the places where it connects to the wing reinforcements (“booms”) and to the side members. To dismantle the TV, it will be enough to drill out the points in these places and then cut them off with a sharp chisel.

Advice. In the process of removing the TV, it is possible to dismantle the radiator itself, only in this case you must remember to disconnect the radiator pipes.

After the new radiator frame is put in place, the welding areas will need to be thoroughly cleaned with an emery wheel and puttied. In places where the frame touches the body, sealant must be applied.

Article on the topic: How to connect lg bb5520a soundbar to a TV

Tools and materials for work:

• Socket head for fifteen, nineteen, twenty-four;
• Power driver;
• Two jacks;
• Ratchet driver;
• Wheel bolt wrench;
• Wheel chocks;
• Socket wrench for ten, thirteen;
• Pliers;
• Wire cutters;
• Extension;
• Hammer;
• Five hexagon;
• Steering wheel pin remover;
• Key for adjusting the steering rack;
• Wire brush;
• Rubber hammer;
• Mounting lever;
• Crosshead screwdriver;
• FIOL lubricant;
• Slotted screwdriver;
• Penetrating lubricant.

VAZ 2110 body structure and details

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