The signal on the VAZ-2110 does not work: reasons, what to do?

04.03.2022 17 195 VAZ 2110

Author: Ivan Baranov

Every car must have a working horn. Thanks to the horn, the driver can prevent an emergency situation on the road and avoid a possible collision. But it often happens that the horn refuses to work. For what reasons does the sound signal on the VAZ 2110 not work and how to fix this problem - read below.

[Hide]

Speed ​​sensor

There is another sensor that is not related to the power plant - this is the speed sensor. It is located on the gearbox.

He is responsible for the speedometer and odometer readings. The reliability of this sensor is low, and the malfunction is manifested by incorrect speedometer readings.

As for the electrical part of the car, the weakest parts of the VAZ 2110 - 2112 are the generator and window lifting mechanisms.

The generator in these cars rarely lasts more than 60 thousand km. Generator malfunctions manifest themselves in the cessation of power supply to the vehicle’s on-board network.

They are often eliminated only by replacing it, although some elements of the latter can still be repaired.

What else to pay attention to

Very often, the appearance of such malfunctions occurs due to the fault of the rear lights, or more precisely, in the places where the connectors with wires and lamp sockets are connected. Using a measuring device or a test lamp, check the presence of power at the rear light connectors with the brake pedal pressed or the wires on the switch connected to each other. If it is missing, you should carefully check the condition of the wiring harness.

Oxidation of contacts in connectors or sockets of electric lamps can be removed using available means. It is not advisable to use sandpaper for this, even very fine sandpaper. Alcohol-containing liquids are best suited for this, as they remove the resulting oxidation.

Replacing the horn

The work is carried out in this way:

• remove the protective cover of the button;
• unscrew the three bolts securing the movable plate;
• inspect the contacts, clean them and test them;
• if it doesn’t help, then use a 24 mm wrench to slightly loosen the nut and pull the steering wheel towards you;
• when it gives in, finally unscrew the fasteners and remove the steering wheel;
• inspect the slip ring.

Next, look deep into it - there are two round bronze plaques. Close them - a sound is heard, which means the buzzer is ok and the problem is in the button. If nothing happens, then the signal is broken.

The horn itself, as previously noted, is hidden behind the radiator grille. A single 13mm nut holds it in place. It is more convenient to unscrew it with an open-end wrench. Next, disconnect the signal connector and remove the device.

It is advisable to check the functionality of the new horn. If everything is in order, then put the part back in place.

Afterwards, assemble the steering wheel and make sure that the unit works.

Methods for troubleshooting

If the horn circuit is broken and the horn stops working, then there are several options for solving the problem:

1. First you need to diagnose the safety device. If this part is burnt out, then you just need to replace it with a new one; the device is located in the mounting block. The replacement process will not take much time; any car enthusiast can cope with this task. If replacing the fuse gave results, but after some time the horn stopped working again, then most likely the reason lies in voltage surges in the on-board network. Overload contributes to accelerated burnout of the fuse element, so you will have to look for the source of the load and solve the problem. To do this, use a multimeter or seek help from an electrician.
2. If the horn itself malfunctions, the device must be replaced. If diagnostics by direct connection to the battery do not produce results, then most likely the reason lies in the device itself, which needs to be changed.
3. Short circuit. To diagnose, you will need a multimeter and a little experience. Using a tester, you can find a short circuit, but if you have never encountered such a problem before, it is better to seek help from specialists.
4. If the clamping contacts or slip ring are worn out, then the failed elements must be replaced. It is not a fact that you will be able to buy new contacts or a ring, so most likely you will have to change the horn assembly.
5. Another reason why the horn does not work is oxidation of the internal contacts. Over time, as mentioned above, dirt and deposits accumulate on them, which leads to the obstruction of sound. You can try to disassemble the steering wheel of the car, then clean the internal contacts and assemble the steering wheel (the author of the video is the channel Alexander Amochkin Kolomna AAK).

If you are faced with the problem of a non-working horn, then you will probably be wondering how to replace it:

1. First of all, you need to remove the steering wheel. To do this, remove the trim and unscrew the bolts that secure the steering wheel.
2. After the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks, perhaps this will help solve the problem. Make sure that the wire contacts in the column are as clean as possible .
3. Unscrew the two screws located under the plastic cover. After dismantling the cover, you will be able to see the contact plate; there is a possibility that the problem lies there. Clean the contacts and check the signal functionality. If the horn does not work, then using a 24mm wrench you will need to unscrew the nut, but you do not need to unscrew it all the way.
4. Next, the steering wheel itself must be pulled towards you; this will require some effort. You can try to move the wheel by tapping it from different sides. When you feel that the steering wheel has given way, the nut is unscrewed completely.
5. After dismantling the steering wheel, we proceed to removing the horn. There is a module located under the grille of the radiator unit; it must be removed; to do this, unscrew the nut to 13 and disconnect the connector.
6. Install a new one, replace the steering wheel and check the operation of the horn.

Photo gallery “Removing the steering wheel and replacing the horn”

Wiring diagram for an audio signal via a relay on a VAZ 2110

Installation of sound signals from Volga

Many owners of VAZ 2109, 2108 are not satisfied with the sound of the standard horn of their car. An excellent replacement for the standard nine signal can be the option discussed here for installing a sound signal from the Volga. Many, including the author, have already completed this not at all complicated installation, and do not regret the time and money spent, especially since this modernization is more than compensated by the awareness of the fact that his car has become a little closer to ideal, and is ready for it immediately show it to everyone!

So, for this installation we will need the following materials:

1. signals from the Volga with a “mass” on the body
2. relay type 90.3747 with mounting flange
3. relay socket
4. female terminals wide
5. heat-shrinkable tube (HERE)
6. stranded wire with a cross section of 2.5 mm. sq.
7. blade fuse block
8. 20 A fuse
9. metal corner

First of all, remove the ground terminal from the battery.

To access the standard signal of the VAZ 2109, remove the radiator grille, unscrew the standard signal along with its fastening bar. The signal ground wire is attached nearby, we dismantle it too.

At home, we will first prepare the mounting of signals from the Volga based on a steel angle purchased at any building materials store. We will attach the signals to the standard place where the original signal is attached. We mark the corner at the installation location, saw it off, and drill holes for attaching signals from the Volga. It is also advisable to paint the corner to protect it from corrosion. Next, we attach the signals to the corner. The signal fastening bolt is also a “ground”, so it is necessary to ensure its electrical contact with the angle, for example, by securing the Volgov signals through a castle washer.

We fasten the corner with the signals to the bolt securing the standard Samara signal through a castle washer to ensure contact of the corner with the ground. It is possible that the bolts securing the Volgov signals on the corner will touch the radiator; in this case, we put washers, thereby moving the corner with the signals away from the radiator. Do not forget about the need to preserve the corner with the car body (“ground”). That's it, the mechanical part is over, let's move on to the electrical part.

Signals from the Volga to the VAZ 2109 are connected according to the following scheme:

We crimp the ends of the wires with appropriate terminals. We hide all connections in a heat-shrinkable tube.

The relay can be mounted on the back of the radiator frame, next to the headlight.

We fix the ground wire of the relay (pin 86) under the flange of the relay mounting to the car body through a castle washer to ensure electrical contact, having previously installed a tip with a fastening eye on the wire.

We connect the wire from the fuse (30th contact of the relay) to the positive terminal of the battery.

The final result is how signals from the Volga look on the “nine”:

Reinstall the radiator grille:

That's it, the Volga signals are installed, let's buzz and enjoy the noble sound!

You can adjust the sound of signals from the Volga by rotating a special bolt on their body. Also, don’t forget about anti-corrosion protection; you can simply coat all bolted joints with Litol.

Volga signals on the VAZ 2109 and its modifications can be installed without using a relay, by directly connecting to the power wires of the standard signal; the standard signal is already connected through a relay in the fuse block. But this method has disadvantages. The positive power wire of the standard signal is very thin; the signals will not operate at full power due to the voltage drop in this wire, because The Volgov signal is more powerful than the standard one. The power supply circuit for the standard signal is protected by fuse No. 8 in the fuse block, and the cooling fan power supply circuit is also protected by the same fuse. Due to the fact that Volgov signals consume more current (14 A) than the standard one (5 A), this fuse will burn if the fan and Volgov signal operate simultaneously, and the corresponding tracks on the printed circuit board in the fuse block may also be damaged.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Probable Causes

Based on the nature of the signal malfunction in the VAZ-2110, it can be divided into two groups.

In the first case, the horn does not operate at all, no matter how the driver presses the button located in the center of the steering wheel.

The second option is that the sound is intermittent, that is, the signal begins to work unstable.

Among the most obvious and easily remediable causes, the main one is a blown fuse. A break in the fuse link de-energizes the entire electrical circuit, and, accordingly, the horn does not function at all. To check, just turn on the heater fan. It is connected to the same protective device.

Also, the horn itself often breaks on the 2110 model. This version is accepted as the main one if installing a working fuse does not lead to a positive result. Here you will have to tinker longer:

• the signal is removed (it is located behind the radiator grille);
• connect directly to a battery or other 12-volt power source (the white wire is “plus” and the black wire is “minus”);
• If the device itself is faulty, then it will not produce a characteristic sound.

When everything is in order with the node, then you should suspect a break that occurred somewhere in the circuit.

The next possibility is abrasion of the clamping contacts installed directly in the steering column. This is more likely the older the “ten” is. By the way, it is not difficult to extend their service life - it is enough to regularly treat the contacts with graphite-based lubricant.

Also, sometimes the problem lies in the oxidized terminals of the pads. Inspect the one located in the steering column, and the second one in the engine compartment. At the same time, make sure that all wiring is securely fastened.

The slip ring is less often to blame for the sound signal not working. It is located directly in the steering wheel. This element of the 2110th model also wears out over time and ceases to perform its intended function.

Repair of sound signals on VAZ cars of various modifications

Sound signals, as such, are not among the most complex elements of a car, however, traffic safety and the ability to avoid emergency situations largely depend on their good condition. Be that as it may, even with all its simplicity of design, the sound signal (including on various modifications of the VAZ) may stop working and if such an unpleasant situation arises, you can most often cope with the problem on your own, it is enough to have the appropriate diagram at hand and follow a few simple recommendations. In general, the connection diagrams for the sound signal on the VAZ “classic” series and on subsequent front-wheel drive models are quite similar and the main differences relate to the relay markings, as well as the location of the fuse. Among other things, on the earliest versions of the VAZ (2101, 2102, 2103 and a number of modifications 2106), the electrical circuit of the sound signal or the presence of a unloading relay is not provided at all.

VAZ sound signal circuit without relay

1. Accumulator battery;
2. Fuse (one for two signals), located in the fuse block;
3. Horn switch in the form of a button on the steering wheel;
4. Generator.

VAZ sound signal circuit (2104 – 2107, and also 2121) with relay

1. Accumulator battery;
2. DC generator;
3. A fuse common to the two signals (located in the fuse block);
4. Control relay (usually RS-528).

Sound signal diagram for VAZ Samara (2108, 2109, 21099), as well as for VAZ 2113 - VAZ 2115

Sound signal circuit for VAZ 2110 - VAZ 2112, as well as all existing modifications

1.Universal sound horn;

2. Signal control key located on the steering wheel;

3. Fuse in the mounting block (again, there is no relay).

Wiring diagram for the sound signal on the VAZ Kalina and VAZ Priora

1. Mounting block with fuse and relay (in the documentation it is sometimes called a control and comfort unit);
2. Sound signal control key;
3. Universal sound signal.

Possible causes of audio signal failure and methods of elimination

The most common reason for the loss of a sound signal lies in the imperfection of its design and poor protection from moisture and dirt. In other words, during operation, oxidation of the contacts occurs, as well as blocking of the sound membrane (as a result of which there are no vibrations and the necessary sound effect). Such failures can often be eliminated by adding a small amount of WD-40 or its equivalent to the signal, but in order to achieve a guaranteed and long-lasting result, it is still recommended to disassemble the signal and the control key in order to perform more thorough cleaning.

Among other things, on cars equipped with two signals (as a rule, they are of different tones), when one of the elements fails, a significant weakening of the output sound power occurs, and here you will have to determine the failed signal and change it. By the way, many signals are equipped with special adjustment controls, and if wheezing, grinding and other extraneous sounds occur, you can improve the sound quality by rotating the adjusting screw. You can also try to rip off the “soured” membrane by rotating it.

Troubleshooting Electrical Circuits

when there is no signal at all:

– We check the presence and condition of the “ground”, as well as the supply voltage directly on the signal (it is necessary to take into account that on early VAZ models the “plus” “hangs” constantly, and control is carried out by closing the “minus”). If there is a stable plus and a minus appears when the key is closed, the signal itself is faulty and should be changed.

– We check the supply voltage in the sections of the circuit with the fuse, the power relay and the mounting block as a whole;

– We evaluate the condition of the contacts and the overall “ground” of the control button and eliminate all traces of oxidation.

The signal periodically disappears, and extraneous sounds can be heard when sounding:

– We carry out debugging using the adjusting screw.

When turning the steering wheel, the signal begins to sound spontaneously:

– Most likely, the steering column switch is installed incorrectly (too close to the steering wheel);

– Alternatively, the ground on the steering column is shorted (via the signal control circuit).

Is a Volga horn good?

Is it possible to use a signal from the Volga in the “ten”, how to install it and how to connect it yourself? In the VAZ 2110 it is allowed to install a Volga horn, and the latter can be either old or new model. There is no particular difference between these details, except that the tonality will be slightly different. And, of course, the cost. But keep in mind that installation by simply replacing the device will not work.

The bottom line is that two cables are connected to the standard device - one with a negative output, which comes from the button on the steering wheel, and the other with a positive one. The latter is permanently connected; it also powers the ventilation device of the radiator unit. But in Volga devices, only one cable is used - positive, since the mass in this case is supplied through the body, that is, from the attachment to the vehicle body. In addition, you must also take into account that both systems use different current consumers - the standard options require no more than 5 amperes, while the Volga ones require 8 amperes each. The result is 16 amperes (video author - Master Bruce).

Accordingly, to correctly connect a product from Volga to a VAZ 2110, you will need a four-pin relay; you have several options for installing it:

• in the vehicle interior, in the mounting block with fuses;
• in the engine compartment, but in this case, please note that the relay should be securely insulated to prevent moisture from entering.

Mounting block fuse block VAZ tenth family

Fuse box diagram

1. headlight high beam relay (K5);
2. low beam headlight relay (K4);
3. relay for monitoring and checking the serviceability of lamps (K1);
4. tweezers for removing fuses;
5. door power window relay;
6. relay for turning on direction indicators and hazard warning lights (K3);
7. starter relay;
8. spare fuses;
9. installation location of the fog lamp relay;
10. relay for switching on windshield wipers and windshield washers (K2);
11. rear window heating relay (K7);
12. additional relay (K6);
13. top row of fuses (F1-F10 are installed in numerical order from left to right);
14. bottom row of fuses (F11-F20 are installed in numerical order from left to right)

• F1 5A License plate lighting lamps Instrument lighting lamps Side light warning lamp Trunk lighting lamp Left side side light lamps
• F2 7.5A Left headlight (low beam)
• F3 10A Left headlight (high beam)
• F4 10A Right fog lamp
• F5 30A Electric door window drive
• F6 15A Portable lamp socket Cigarette lighter
• F7 20A Electric cooling fan Sound signal
• F8 20A Rear window heating element. Relay (contacts) for turning on the heated rear window
• F9 20A Cleaners and washers for windshield, rear glass and headlights. Relay (coil) for turning on the heated rear window.
• F10 20A Reserve
• F11 5A Left side marker lamps
• F12 7.5A Right headlight (low beam)
• F13 10A Right headlight (high beam)
• F14 10A Left fog lamp
• F15 20A Electric seat heating Trunk lock lock
• F16 10A Relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in hazard warning mode) Hazard warning lamp
• F17 7.5A Interior lighting lamp. Individual backlight lamp. Ignition switch illumination lamp.
• Brake light bulbs. Clock (or trip computer).
• F18 25A Glove box lighting lamp. Heating and ventilation control unit.
• F19 10A Door locking (central locking) Relay for monitoring the health of brake signal lamps and side lights Turn indicators with warning lamps Reversing lamps Generator excitation winding On-board control system display unit Instrument panel
• F20 7.5A Rear fog lamps

xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai

VAZ sound signal does not work

A non-functioning horn on a car is a very dangerous malfunction. The most unpleasant thing is that they find out about this breakdown just when the signal is needed most - in a dangerous situation on the road. What could cause the signal to fail? There are several reasons why the horn may stop working. Almost all of them are electrical and simply involve no contact where it should be. Let's go through them all:

Horn fuse blown

The very first and easiest check that can be performed when the sound signal is not working is the integrity of the fuse. If it turns out to be burnt out, then there may be a short circuit in the car. Try inserting a whole fuse that matches the rating (How to choose a fuse. Colors and ratings). If it burns out in the same way, it means there is actually a short circuit.

If not, then perhaps the fuse has simply exhausted its resource and you should pay attention to other reasons

The horn button does not work

The signal in most cars is turned on by a button in the center of the steering wheel. There are variations with a button in the steering column switch or a certain position of this switch itself, but this is rare.

There are actually a whole bunch of places inside the steering wheel where contact can be lost, leading to the failure of the horn. To understand exactly where they can be located, you need to understand how the sound signal in the car turns on. Let's look at the diagram.

Diagram for connecting an audio signal via a relay

This circuit assumes the presence of a signal activation relay. This relay is found on all modern cars. On a certain category of cars (for example, VAZ classics), there is no relay. In this case, the signal is connected directly through the button on the steering wheel.

The diagram shows that there are two electrical circuits: control and power. The power circuit feeds the signal and does not come into the car interior; the control circuit, on the contrary, comes to the steering wheel. When you press the signal button, the control contacts of the relay close, connect the power circuit and the signal turns on. What are relays, control and power contacts, read the article: how a relay works in a car .

The control current from the relay is transmitted from the steering column to the steering wheel through a floating contact. There may be one, or maybe two. These contacts rub against a special conductive ring built into the steering wheel at the point where it is attached to the steering shaft. Due to the fact that the contacts are spring-loaded, they are constantly pressed against the ring, ensuring the transmission of current to the steering wheel in any position.

Then the voltage is transmitted through a short wire to the button and when it is pressed, the electrical circuit closes to ground - the signal turns on. Now about malfunctions that can occur in the steering wheel.

ATTENTION!

It is better to entrust all work related to disassembling the steering wheel on cars with airbags to a car service center. Unskilled actions can cause the airbag to deploy, which can lead to life-threatening injuries!

– Worn contacts

The pressure contacts on the steering column rub against the slip ring whenever you move the steering wheel and wear out over time. Sooner or later, a moment may come when they can no longer reach the contact ring on the steering wheel and then pressing the horn button will lead to nothing. To avoid this, when removing the steering wheel for any repairs, it is necessary to lubricate the contacts and the ring on the steering wheel with a conductive lubricant, for example, graphite. Such treatment will reduce the friction of the contacts on the ring and extend their service life.

– Worn slip ring

Exactly the same malfunction can befall the conductive ring in the steering wheel. It can also wear out and lead to signal failure. The method of struggle is the same - lubricant.

The wear of the clamping contacts or slip ring has an insidious property: due to uneven wear, the contact may disappear only at certain steering wheel positions. For example, when driving straight, the signal works, but when turning, it does not. Such symptoms almost always clearly indicate problems in the contact pair “steering column - steering wheel”.

Worn contacts and a ring in the steering wheel, as a rule, cannot be repaired. Therefore, the best solution is to replace these elements with new ones.

– Oxidized contacts inside the steering wheel

Another “steering” problem is the oxidation of internal contacts. Due to the large amount of oxides, a sufficient amount of current cannot pass through the contacts inside the steering wheel and the sound signal is silent. You need to disassemble the steering wheel and clean the contacts.

Possible malfunctions: signs and causes

There are several signs of a malfunctioning sound signal on a VAZ 2110 or 2112:

1. The sound signal has disappeared. The driver presses the steering wheel or the corresponding button located on it, but there is no beep.
2. The beep appears and disappears. When the driver presses the steering wheel, the signal may start to work, but then immediately disappears.

There may be several reasons why the horn refuses to function:

1. One of the most common reasons is the failure of a safety device. In this case, the integrity of the horn itself will not be compromised, which greatly simplifies the repair procedure.
2. Failure of the horn itself. If after replacing the safety device the sound does not appear, you can try to check the functionality of the horn by dismantling it and directly connecting it to the battery. If the device is working, then when connected to the battery it will begin to emit a corresponding signal.
3. The reason may also be a short circuit in the vehicle's on-board network.
4. Another cause of the problem may be worn out clamping contacts located on the steering column. This problem often occurs in the cars of our compatriots. In any case, the clamping contacts wear out over time due to use; this cannot be prevented. As an option, you can try to increase the service life of the contacts; to do this, they need to be treated with graphite lubricant from time to time.
5. Worn slip ring on the steering wheel. As stated above, there is no escape from wear and tear, so sooner or later every car owner will face such a problem. As in the previous case, you can try to increase the service life of the slip ring by applying graphite lubricant to it.
6. Oxidation of contacts on the steering wheel. With prolonged use, deposits will begin to accumulate on the internal contacts, which makes it impossible to transmit the impulse to activate the horn.

Failed horn

If the relay still clicks, check for voltage on the signal itself. Here you will have to work with an assistant: one holds the signal button, and the other checks the voltage. The test can be done with a regular test light or a multimeter, which is more reliable. The multimeter is able to show a weak voltage, which will be a sign of heavily oxidized contacts in the signal power circuit or a short circuit.

If voltage arrives, the “mass” signal wire has no oxides and is securely connected to the body, and the signal is silent, it means it has burned out. In this case, as a rule, the “beep” has to be replaced.

ratings, average:

from 5).

Loading…

The circuit diagram of the sound signal is implemented according to a two-pole circuit where:

• (+) is constantly applied to the signal.
• (-) sends a minus signal when the contact in the steering wheel closes, thereby ensuring its functionality.

1 - sound signal 2 - sound signal switch.

3 - mounting block A - wiring block to the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan B - to power supplies The first place to start looking for the problem is checking the signal fuse, on the VAZ 2110 it is F7. He is also responsible for the operation of the electric fan of the cooling system. If necessary, replace the horn fuse with a new one (20A). Next, we check the horn under the hood; to do this, just connect it directly to the battery. If it does not work, then we replace it with a new one, otherwise we move into the car interior to check the contacts on the steering wheel.

We disassemble the steering wheel and find two horn wires. If you bridge these two wires with a wire:

1. You will hear a beep, which means the problem is in the tips (they are oxidized or poorly connected to the signal body). Sometimes the moving contacts no longer touch the slip ring; to solve the problem, loosen the nuts securing the steering column switches and move them closer to the steering wheel so that the moving contacts begin to touch the slip ring.

2. You won’t hear the signal, which means we’re looking for damage to the wiring. By the way, do you know that the standard horn can be replaced with a Volgov signal

Have you encountered a non-functional sound signal? Keywords:

• xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai
• www.vazzz.ru
• russia-avto.ru
• xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai

Stories from our readers

“Fucking basin. "

Hi all! My name is Mikhail, now I’ll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my two-wheeler for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I began to be wildly irritated by the breakdowns of the two-wheeler, it seemed like nothing serious was broken, but damn it, there were so many little things that really started to irritate me. This is where the idea arose that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the melting Camry of the tenth years.

Yes, I had matured morally, but financially I just couldn’t handle it. I’ll say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. My salary is 24k a month, so collecting 600-700 thousand is almost impossible for me. I started looking for different ways to make money on the Internet. You can’t imagine how many scams there are, what I haven’t tried: sports betting, network marketing, and even the volcano casino, where I successfully lost about 10 thousand ((The only direction in which it seemed to me that I could make money was currency trading on the stock exchange, they call it Forex. But when I started delving into it, I realized that it was very difficult for me. I continued to dig further and came across binary options. The essence is the same as in Forex, but it’s much easier to understand. I started reading forums, studying trading strategies. I tried it on a demo account, then opened a real account. To be honest, I didn’t manage to start earning money right away, until I understood all the mechanics of options, I lost about 3,000 rubles, but as it turned out, it was a precious experience. Now I earn 5-7 thousand rubles a day. I managed to get the car buy after half a year, but in my opinion this is a good result, and it’s not about the car, my life has changed, I naturally quit my job, I have more free time for myself and my family. You’ll laugh, but I work directly on the phone)) If If you want to change your life like me, then here’s what I advise you to do right now: 1. Register on the site 2. Practice on a Demo account (it’s free). 3. As soon as you get something on the Demo account, top up your REAL ACCOUNT and go to REAL MONEY! I also advise you to download the application to your phone, it’s much more convenient to work from your phone. Download here.

3 - mounting block

A - wiring block to the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan B - to power supplies

Why the sound signal does not work on the VAZ-2112 photo and video

Lada 2110 Logbook Replacing the thermoelement of the VAZ 2110 thermostat

Operating a car with a faulty sound signal is prohibited. At the same time, on cars of the “tenth” family, the horn may stop working for no apparent reason. Potential “+12” is connected to one of the horn wires. And the second terminal should close to ground when the key is pressed. Let's look at why the signal on the VAZ-2112 does not work, and for this we will check the control points.

Sometimes it is possible to restore contact with ground without removing the steering wheel. An example is shown in the video.

Features of the VAZ-2112 electrical circuit

The owners of cars of the “tenth” family are to some extent lucky: there is no relay in the horn circuit, but only a switch. The proof is given below.

Standard wiring diagram

The first step is to check fuse F7. In the mounting block it is in the top row (seventh from the left).

Voltage “+12” is applied to one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

If the fuse is good, potential “+12” should be at one of the horn terminals. Let's take a look under the hood...

Audio module connector

Disconnect the connector and check both terminals with a tester. We connect the second probe of the voltmeter to the negative of the battery.

The standard reason why the signal does not work on the VAZ-2112 is this: the “positive” voltage is connected, but the contact with the “ground” is broken. Most often the problem lies in the switch.

We diagnose the sound signal

It all starts with the connector pins:

1. Let's say the voltage “+12” is not caused on both contacts. Then look for a short circuit or break point, starting from terminal 6-Ш5 (diagram above).
2. If positive voltage is received, check the second terminal. It will contact ground when you press the horn button. During this check, the battery must be disconnected.
3. If the previous two steps are completed successfully, then voltage is supplied to the horn. It may need to be replaced or the contacts cleaned.

By the way, in “step 2” it is recommended to rotate the steering wheel - contact may be broken at certain angles of rotation.

Removing the steering wheel

If “step 2” is not successful, you need to remove the steering wheel. The two copper strips should “close” when pressed - everything is clear here. The test is carried out with an ohmmeter, and if necessary, the switch is replaced.

Steering wheel after dismantling

When the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks. The wire contacts in the column must also be clean.

Dismantling from start to finish

First you need to unscrew the two screws under the trim. Having removed the plastic, you can see the contact plate - perhaps that was the problem.

First step in dismantling

Try cleaning the contacts and performing “step 2” again. If there is no result, take a 24mm wrench and unscrew one nut (not all the way).

The steering wheel needs to be knocked off its splines

The steering wheel is pushed towards itself. And then the nut can be unscrewed completely.

When installing, follow one rule. The protrusion on the bracket should fit into the slot made in the plastic ring (see photo).

Steering wheel installation (first step)

How to remove a faulty signal (horn)

There is a single module mounted under the radiator grille. To remove it, unscrew one nut (key “13”). First disconnect the connector.

Dismantling, adjustment before installation

It will be necessary to remove the grille. This action is difficult to perform on both the “Ten” and even on the VAZ-2112, and the signal may not work due to faulty wiring. First achieve what was discussed in “step 3”. And only then, if necessary, proceed with replacement.

One adjusting screw is fixed to the horn body. Set it to the middle position and check.

Removing the radiator grille

1. Taking the “10” key, unscrew the two screws on top (as in the photo). You can't remove the grill right away. Self-tapping screw for radiator grille fastening
2. Using both hands, applying equal force on both sides, pull the grill upward. In this case, the two lower clamps should not break. An important fastening element is the clamp.
3. Installation will be easier - there is no risk of breaking the clamps.

The article number of the new radiator grille is 2110-8401014 (or 8401614, or 8401714).

Methods for troubleshooting

If the horn circuit is broken and the horn stops working, then there are several options for solving the problem:

1. First you need to diagnose the safety device. If this part is burnt out, then you just need to replace it with a new one; the device is located in the mounting block. The replacement process will not take much time; any car enthusiast can cope with this task. If replacing the fuse gave results, but after some time the horn stopped working again, then most likely the reason lies in voltage surges in the on-board network. Overload contributes to accelerated burnout of the fuse element, so you will have to look for the source of the load and solve the problem. To do this, use a multimeter or seek help from an electrician.
2. If the horn itself malfunctions, the device must be replaced. If diagnostics by direct connection to the battery do not produce results, then most likely the reason lies in the device itself, which needs to be changed.
3. Short circuit. To diagnose, you will need a multimeter and a little experience. Using a tester, you can find a short circuit, but if you have never encountered such a problem before, it is better to seek help from specialists.
4. If the clamping contacts or slip ring are worn out, then the failed elements must be replaced. It is not a fact that you will be able to buy new contacts or a ring, so most likely you will have to change the horn assembly.
5. Another reason why the horn does not work is oxidation of the internal contacts. Over time, as mentioned above, dirt and deposits accumulate on them, which leads to the obstruction of sound. You can try to disassemble the steering wheel of the car, then clean the internal contacts and assemble the steering wheel (the author of the video is the channel Alexander Amochkin Kolomna AAK).

If you are faced with the problem of a non-working horn, then you will probably be wondering how to replace it:

1. First of all, you need to remove the steering wheel. To do this, remove the trim and unscrew the bolts that secure the steering wheel.
2. After the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks, perhaps this will help solve the problem. Make sure that the wire contacts in the column are as clean as possible .
3. Unscrew the two screws located under the plastic cover. After dismantling the cover, you will be able to see the contact plate; there is a possibility that the problem lies there. Clean the contacts and check the signal functionality. If the horn does not work, then using a 24mm wrench you will need to unscrew the nut, but you do not need to unscrew it all the way.
4. Next, the steering wheel itself must be pulled towards you; this will require some effort. You can try to move the wheel by tapping it from different sides. When you feel that the steering wheel has given way, the nut is unscrewed completely.
5. After dismantling the steering wheel, we proceed to removing the horn. There is a module located under the grille of the radiator unit; it must be removed; to do this, unscrew the nut to 13 and disconnect the connector.
6. Install a new one, replace the steering wheel and check the operation of the horn.

Photo gallery “Removing the steering wheel and replacing the horn”