Brake pressure regulator, or how the sorcerer works on VAZ cars
A brake force regulator, or sorcerer in common parlance, is a mechanical device designed to relieve excess pressure in the rear drum brakes.
On VAZ-2109, VAZ-2108, VAZ-2114 and other front-wheel drive models produced in Togliatti, it was installed in the rear left part of the body, under the bottom, in front of the rear suspension beam. The brake pressure regulator on the VAZ-2107 model and other “classics” is located on the right in the direction of travel of the car.
New vehicles equipped with ABS and EBD do not use the sorcerer.
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The VAZ brake system of the tenth family is hydraulic, dual-circuit (with diagonal separation of the circuits). The rear brake pressure regulator (sorcerer) is responsible for the operation of the rear brakes, which, after adjustment, quickly ceases to fulfill its duties. The article talks about how to convert the braking system from a dual-circuit diagonal to a dual-circuit axial one, and also get rid of the “sorcerer”.
The main purpose of the brake pressure regulator is to create the necessary braking force in the rear brakes of the car, depending on the load of the car and the severity of braking. With standard suspension and brakes, through long manipulations, the “sorcerer” can be adjusted many times for a specific load. However, when loading the car, changing the suspension height or braking mechanisms, you can forget about the proper operation of the “sorcerer”. As a result, in practice, every second old VAZ car has problems with the rear brakes.
It is possible to modify the rear brakes in two stages:
- convert the brake system from dual-circuit diagonal to dual-circuit axial (optional).
- replace the sorcerer with a brake force distributor from Chevrolet Lanos with different characteristics 3/40.
Why do you need a brake force regulator?
The function of the regulator is to temporarily reduce the braking force during heavy braking. The fact is that force evenly distributed on the rear and front axles can lead to a skid of the car. If the rear brakes start working a little later and weaker than the front ones, this does not happen.
Based on the above, we can conclude that the sorcerer is an element of the car’s safety system, partly preserving its stability on the road when the brake pedal is pressed in an emergency. On modern models, this function is performed by ABS. That is why there is no need today to use a technically outdated device in production.
Useful tips
In addition to the sorcerer, the braking efficiency of the rear axle is influenced by:
- Drum wear;
- Condition and quality of the pads;
- Adjusting the handbrake cable;
- Faulty brake hoses.
Therefore, it is necessary to check all elements.
On the Internet there are tips for improving the brake system of VAZs: replacing the sorcerer with a simple tee, selecting the thickness of the sealing washers in the regulator, converting from a diagonal system to a dual-circuit front-rear axle.
But according to the Traffic Rules, it is prohibited to make any design changes to vehicle components on which safety directly depends. The best option is qualified technical service, timely identification and elimination of faults.
How does a sorcerer work?
The regulator itself consists of a cylinder, valve, spring and rod. The latter is connected to the rear beam, which ensures the operation of the VAZ-2109 sorcerer. Also, brake fluid circuits pass through the rear brake pressure regulator. For their mounting on the device there are 4 threaded entries. » alt=»»> How does the sorcerer regulator work on a VAZ? During emergency braking, the front of the car is pressed to the ground, and the rear is raised. This causes the regulator rod to move, which blocks the flow of fluid to the rear cylinders. A spring located under the valve prevents it from closing completely. Therefore, the rear mechanisms still work, but later and weaker than the front ones.
FakeHeader
Comments 28
And what tubes should be connected to each other? Can I have a diagram?
Honestly, I can’t answer you exactly, since I already bought one, and just when I changed the hoses for iron, I connected them as they were, who knows how it is, because they have circuits arranged on the GTZ, where is the back where is the front, I got it right now, not cross to cross, as in stock, but the front, rear, and GTZ will be changed in the same way as it was, I’ll connect everything, I want from the new Niva, VUT and GTZ) in general it will be superb, I’m waiting for my system to run out)
This means that the tubes on the GTZ have been swapped as well.
maybe x.z. I can’t say anything, but I think it certainly won’t get worse)
The sorcerer threw it out. When pressed smoothly, the butt grips faster. I read on the drive that it is also necessary to swap the circuits on the GTZ.
I didn’t notice anything like that, I didn’t even know that I didn’t have a sorcerer))) until I decided to check just because I don’t care about making rear brake pipes)) when I press it smoothly, it slows down as usual, when I press it hard, the car, according to passengers, gets stuck, but I still want something better, here and the GT from the new modernized Niva, in my plans, I really want it, but I live in Tatarstan, in a small town, where the evil, despicable garbage ((( will get along with the car
I haven't seen a car yet. And your front discs are perforated and notched. If so, what kind of pads do you use?
Yes, these are the wheels, Alnas, ATE pads, starting from the rear)
And what tubes should be connected to each other? Can I have a diagram?
Nobody suggested a diagram? otherwise I want to throw out the sorcerer, but I can’t find which tube to connect to which anywhere
Nope. But I think so.
Nobody suggested a diagram? otherwise I want to throw out the sorcerer, but I can’t find which tube to connect to which anywhere
Connect the tubes to each other. UAZ would be harmful
Nobody suggested a diagram? otherwise I want to throw out the sorcerer, but I can’t find which tube to connect to which anywhere
The adapters are there. I think I'll throw out the sorcerer in the summer. Just take an adapter so that there are threads on both sides M10×1.25
I understand that you can unscrew all 4 tubes from the sorcerer, of which 2 come from the GTZ and 2 are connected to the left and right rear wheels through the same adapter: GTZ tube - left rear tube, GTZ tube - right rear
essentially the same as in the picture
Yes. There on the sorcerer itself there are arrows for entrances and exits
Damn, here you are))) I didn’t notice)))
How would I notice it? ))) the car brakes better than stock. Eee, but I thought it would come from 14th ventilated, perforated, brake discs and good pads, but it turns out I don’t even have this extra junk) it turns out that now I need to pump both rear brakes first, then both front ones, or vice versa, but not according to the book crisscross)
Haven’t you looked under the car even once in all this time? Have you looked at the condition of the bottom/sills and brake pipes?
Well, I wrote that I regularly climbed under the car, but didn’t look specifically at the place of the sorcerer)) there are some cuts from the factory crap, like anti-corrosion on the bottom, I regularly inspect, lubricate, bitumen mastic with anti-corrosion agent, tightened the handbrake a couple of times, changed the fuel filter, but that’s exactly what I didn’t look closely at this place)) I noticed what I already wrote only because I decided to look at the hoses that go to the beam)), because one of the front ones was completely sad)
Possible malfunctions of the regulator
In general, there are few malfunctions that can occur in the sorcerer. These include:
- Valve jamming;
- Misalignment of position;
- Brake fluid leaks.
A deregulated sorcerer can be adjusted. You can determine the need for adjustment by the behavior of the car when you press the brake. If the regulator is set incorrectly, the car starts to toss to the side.
If the valve jams or fluid leaks, the mechanism must be replaced. Theoretically, it can be repaired. However, the process of such repairs is complex and expensive, which makes it unprofitable.
Replacing the brake pressure regulator
The replacement of the sorcerer on VAZ-2110 cars and other vehicles equipped with an RTD is carried out on an overpass. You need a 13 mm spanner, a powerful screwdriver and a special 10 mm wrench designed for unscrewing brake pipes. Before starting work, the assembly must be cleaned of dirt and rust, doused with WD-40 or another penetrating compound, and then wait half an hour.
Work begins by unscrewing the bolt securing the bracket to the spring. Afterwards, the brake pipes are dismantled, the position of which is recommended to be pre-marked.
You can also unscrew the tube fittings with a regular wrench. However, using a special tool makes the job easier and reduces the likelihood of “licking” the edges. After the fittings, unscrew the two bolts securing the sorcerer to the body and remove the part. » alt=»»> It is necessary to install the new VAZ-2110 sorcerer in strict reverse order. After installing it and before adjusting the RTD, you should bleed the rear brake circuits. Next, the above-described procedure for setting up the sorcerer is performed.
From dual-circuit-diagonal to dual-circuit-axial
The figure shows a diagram of the VAZ 2110 brakes. In the VAZ dual-circuit diagonal diagram, 2 pipes go to the rear brake mechanisms. To make the system a dual-circuit-axial one, one of the tubes going backwards on the master cylinder (GTC) must be plugged (with a ball from the bearing). The “sorcerer” can be left, muting the current circuit, as in the diagram. Or install a tee instead of a “sorcerer”. In both cases we get uniform brakes on the rear axle. Effect: The brakes become sharper because all 4 wheels begin to brake with the same maximum force.
Examination
The operation of the VAZ-2109, 2110 and other AvtoVAZ models is checked on the move, in closed areas. To do this, accelerate the car to a speed of 40 km/h and sharply press the brake. The rear wheels should lock 1/2 second later than the front wheels.
The wheels are monitored by an assistant located outside the car. If wheel locking occurs noticeably later or does not occur at all, and also if the rear axle is locked simultaneously with the front, the sorcerer adjustment procedure is repeated.
To increase the response time of the rear brakes, the gap between the adjuster and the bracket is increased; to shorten it, it is reduced accordingly.
Examination
Symptoms of a sorcerer malfunction on a VAZ 2110 appear when braking:
- Pulling the car to the side;
- Skidding;
- Insufficient brake performance.
The VAZ 2110 has a sorcerer on a bracket under the bottom, slightly to the left, in the area of the rear wheels. It is better to work with it on a lift, overpass or inspection hole. The main defects are easily detected during external inspection. Brake fluid leaks indicate wear or damage to the seals.
Sorcerer (RDT) installed on the bottom
If the sorcerer's piston has turned sour and does not move, then this is also determined visually when the assistant smoothly presses the brake pedal several times. In both cases, repair is impractical and replacement is necessary.
Everything is in order if the regulator is clean, the gap between the drive lever and the plate is 2 mm, the rod moves when the pedal is pressed.
A good sorcerer must provide:
- Uniformity of braking forces on the rear wheels;
- Rear brakes engage later than front brakes;
- Adjustment of this delay, depending on the vehicle load.
Removal and installation
To replace the sorcerer on a VAZ 2110, you need wrenches 13 and 10. Instead of 10, a special wrench for brake fittings is very desirable; it is more gentle than a regular open-end wrench when handling soft copper nuts due to the large contact area.
Replacing a wheel bearing in a garage is not difficult if you have the necessary tools on hand. The work procedure is presented here: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/hodovaya/zamena-stupichnogo-podshipnika.html
This type of wrench is similar to a socket wrench, but has a slot for inserting a tube into it and high jaws. You need about half a liter of brake fluid and 4 rubber plugs for the brake hoses.
RTD (sorcerer) Fenox
AvtoVAZ cast iron and Belarusian aluminum regulators are sold in VAZ spare parts stores. Russian VIS is usually more reliable, Belarusian Fenox is lighter and cheaper.
RDT (sorcerer) VIS assembled
The conditions under the bottom are unfavorable for the sorcerer, so you first need to clean the dirt with a stiff brush and moisten the threaded connections with a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40. The fixing bracket is removed from the rear beam; if necessary, you can use a powerful screwdriver to loosen it.
Adjustment
The work of the sorcerer on VAZ cars depends on the position of the body. Therefore, adjustment must be performed not only during each maintenance, but also when replacing shock absorbers and springs, after repairing the rear beam and, of course, replacing the sorcerer itself.
The car is placed on an overpass or inspection hole, to set the suspension to a balanced position, the trunk is rocked a couple of times by hand. Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the fastening bolts to the bracket; the front bolt is not visible from below, you need to find it by touch.
By moving the regulator, a gap of 2 mm is achieved between the elastic plate (the rod rests against it) and the lever. The spring resistance is high, you need to use a “mounter” or a special device. The bolts are tightened and the gap is checked with a feeler gauge. If you don’t have a probe, you can use a drill with a diameter of 2 mm and even a two-ruble coin.
Further verification is carried out on the fly. When braking from a speed of 40 km/h, on your own or with the help of a partner outside the car, evaluate the moment when the rear mechanisms begin to operate in comparison with the front ones.
If it needs to be done later, then the gap must be increased, and if it is smaller, then, accordingly, reduced.
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1 Topic by Kirey 2009-04-26 16:01:22
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Topic: Without the "sorcerer".
The question is: Has anyone gotten rid of the regulator? Instead, they install tees from the classics. The result is equal force on all wheels. Subscribe who did, saw, heard anything!
2 Reply from StreetGlow 2009-04-26 16:52:05
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
I heard they do. I think there will be excessive force on the rear wheels, because... Samara's backside is light. The wheels will be blocked.
3 Reply from Biker22rus 2009-04-26 20:56:49
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
I tried it, it doesn't work out well. Before you throw away this device, just try to press the adjustment plate tightly, it will have the same effect as without it.
4 Reply from ZipeR 2009-04-27 08:32:27
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
It will be worse with standard brakes!
A friend removed it and it began to turn around when braking! it became normal when I put the ventel 15 forward and the stock 13 discs back!
5 Reply from Kirey 2009-05-12 08:40:34
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
I threw this sorcerer out! It seems to be slowing down, I just need to bleed it (I can’t find any help).
6 Reply from kamaz5310 2009-05-12 16:41:13
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
yy, they will fuck you for it)). Because making changes to the brake system is prohibited. Otherwise, it’s better without it; the plate always comes off the rod))
7 Reply from Kirey 2009-05-13 17:25:33
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
yy, they will fuck you for it)). Because making changes to the brake system is prohibited. Otherwise, it’s better without it; the plate always comes off the rod))
They won't fuck! This car will never pass so. 1000 rubles and a piece of paper in your pocket!
8 Reply from hahol_st 2009-05-14 01:08:28
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
I threw this sorcerer out! It seems to be slowing down, I just need to bleed it (I can’t find any help).
I think there’s no need to joke with the brakes, my sorcerer wasn’t working (the rod sat dead in place), one front wheel was braking (it’s very bad to drive), the car spun during emergency braking. I replaced the sorcerer with a new one + converted it to a 2-circuit brake .system (there is a topic here), awesome ideas. So think carefully.
9 Reply from alexeykamf 2009-05-14 03:00:34
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
When he starts to throw his ass, say, at a speed of 100 km/h, he will think about a lot, he will even have time to remember his whole life.
10 Reply from Kirey 2009-05-15 16:39:19
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
When he starts to throw his ass, say, at a speed of 100 km/h, he will think about a lot, he will even have time to remember his whole life.
This morning, specifically after the above words, I accelerated to 100 km/h and braked sharply. Absolutely nothing was thrown anywhere or thrown away! They just braked all 4 wheels at once (by the way, they braked very well). And there is no need to scare people.
11 Reply from AMX 2009-05-15 16:40:58
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
Are you trying to fool physics?
12 Reply from Kirey 2009-05-15 17:43:54
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
Please close this topic! I did what I wanted, but I didn’t find support.
13 Reply from alexeykamf 2009-05-17 05:42:16
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
First you have to grab the front and then grab the back! Suppose you brake even more or less normally on the asphalt, but in winter you will in any case remember that there is such a thing as a “sorcerer”
14 Reply from Kirey 2009-05-17 07:04:50
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
First you have to grab the front and then grab the back! Suppose you brake even more or less normally on the asphalt, but in winter you will in any case remember that there is such a thing as a “sorcerer”
That's what you should have said right away! I know that. It's not winter now. And we’ll install it by winter (maybe). Friends of mine have driven without it in winter, it’s fine, they say, it just takes habit, and caution, of course.
15 Reply from alexeykamf 2009-05-18 06:22:30
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
Wet asphalt will be no problem either! In general, your life is yours to decide. I was just in a bad mood with the sorcerer, when I slowed down on dry asphalt from 120, the rear threw up, I had to release the pedal, without the sorcerer it should be even worse.
16 Reply from Kirey 2009-05-18 14:29:15
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Re: Without "sorcerer".
Yes, he doesn’t throw anything! Yesterday, a friend and I were driving his nine, I asked him to brake sharply, to compare, so to speak, his ass was so crazy, it became scary! Today we removed the drum, and there the cylinder releases one block, but not the other. Oh how! We haven't watched the second one yet. Tomorrow we will change these cylinders. Maybe you had something similar?