front wheel bearing on grant which is better

When a wheel (wheel) bearing breaks, it must be replaced. This detail, small in size, is very important; it ensures freedom of rotation of the hub mechanisms. Continuing to use a broken one is dangerous: it will jam, and then a major accident cannot be avoided. The range offered at car markets is quite wide. To decide which wheel bearing is better, it is useful to study its characteristics and the features of bearings offered by different companies. Of course, your choice will be influenced by what exactly you want: to qualitatively repair your favorite car, sparing no expense, or simply to make inexpensive repairs and put the car up for sale.

Structure and types of bearings

The product consists of the following parts:

  • pairs of rings (external and internal), between which the rolling elements are located;
  • rotating elements (balls, conical or cylindrical rollers);
  • a separator (made of steel, non-ferrous metal or plastic) separating or holding the rolling elements at a given distance;
  • protective washers that hold the lubricant inside the structure (they are not always used, they are present in ball bearings for a number of automobile hubs);
  • rings holding the product in the unit body (found on units intended for installing shafts in the gearbox of VAZ or foreign cars).

Bearings are divided into 2 types:

  • sliding (for example, used in crankshaft bearings of car engines);
  • rolling (divided into conical, ball or needle).

Wheel bearing selection criteria

To select a wheel bearing, focus on the following criteria:

Bearing type

Depending on the design, there are single-row ball and roller, HUB type. When replacing, you must choose a part with a similar design that is installed in the car at the factory.

Material of manufacture

Wheel bearings are made from a variety of materials. Many manufacturers use steel. This is a practical and time-tested material with an optimal price-performance ratio.

There are ceramic bearings for sports cars. These are high-strength, elastic parts that are resistant to adverse environmental factors and weigh less than steel parts. Russian manufacturers of wheel bearings do not use this material in the manufacture of spare parts.

Design

Wheel bearings come in open or closed types. The first is considered cheaper and structurally simpler, but requires lubrication. The lubricant is filled to 70-90%, otherwise the lubricant will squeeze out during installation.

The closed type spare part is considered more reliable. The core of the part is reliably protected from moisture, dust, and dirt. This bearing does not need to be lubricated.

Equipment

To successfully install a wheel bearing, additional components are required: nuts, bolts, pins, seals, etc. The package must include all required fasteners without external damage (chips, scratches, cracks).

When dismantling a heavily worn or damaged bearing, old bolts stretch. Therefore, when installing spare parts, use new fasteners.

Vehicle operation period

One of the additional criteria for choosing a spare part is the period of operation of the machine. If the car will be used frequently and for a long time (another 3-4 years), then buy expensive spare parts from well-known manufacturers. The service life of such parts is about 100-120 thousand km.

If the car often sits idle in the garage or will be sold, then buy Chinese wheel bearings. These parts are of lower quality, but cheaper. Such spare parts are not much inferior in performance characteristics to foreign analogues, but they are inferior in terms of service life. Chinese bearings are enough for 20-30 thousand km.

Purpose

The products are designed for the correct positioning of rotating shafts (for example, in gearboxes or front wheel drives).

Due to the introduction of balls or rollers, the units are able to absorb shock loads; when installing protective rings, operation in water or liquid mud is allowed.

The products are capable of operating at temperatures up to +150…200°C without reducing service life or risk of jamming (for example, in wheel hub units of passenger or commercial vehicles).

The type or design of bearings depends on which hub is used on the machine. For example, in Zhiguli cars with rear drive axles, conical joints are used with tension adjustment using a nut (which is then fixed in a tightened position). On vehicles with front-wheel drive, 2-row ball units are used that do not require periodic adjustments during operation of the machine.

Causes of drive failure

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Replacing a vehicle's drivetrain is an infrequent occurrence, since the axle shafts are designed to withstand severe loads: factors such as gravity, tangential reaction associated with the start of the vehicle, lateral force, and even loads associated with strong crosswinds are taken into account.

Thus, the main reasons for failure and subsequent possible replacement of shafts are the following:

  • an accident in which the wheel axle was thrown over an obstacle of appreciable height;
  • daily long-term use of the car without proper attention paid to maintenance;
  • leakage of the drive shaft boot.

How to distinguish an original from a fake

Before buying bearings, you need to find out the characteristics of the original product. For example, special coded markings can be applied to rings, and a holographic label can be applied to cardboard packaging. Some manufacturers include mounting elements (for example, fastening nuts or seals) in the kit, allowing assembly of the unit without purchasing additional spare parts.

Information about the labeling or composition of the kit is available on the websites or in the official catalogs of manufacturers.

In mid-2022, the JTECT concern, which owns the Japanese manufacturer Koyo, together with the WBA (World Bearing Association, an international association of bearing manufacturers), introduced a program to verify the authenticity of products using a QR code printed on the packaging. After comparing the information with the database, a green or red indicator is displayed on the smartphone screen, indicating the original origin or counterfeit. As of mid-2022, the labeling program is in the development stage, and mass application of labels on packaging has not begun.

Signs of a low-quality spare part

The main signs of counterfeit products:

  • packaging made of low quality material;
  • grammatical or punctuation errors in the description (on the box or insert);
  • absence of protective holographic stickers (subject to installation of elements on original products);
  • scratches or other mechanical damage to the rings, separator or protective washers;
  • lack of information or erroneous information about the manufacturer or catalog number;
  • noise when the rings rotate or a palpable beating of parts.

Packaging companies

These companies do not produce the parts themselves, but pack them in branded boxes, and often the parts are of low quality.

It is better not to buy products offered by these companies, even if they are much cheaper. The quality will be low, the parts will not last long.

TOP 10 manufacturers

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SKF

Swedish supplier SKF has been in business since 1907. Engaged in the production of bearings, seals, mechatronics, lubrication systems, etc. Prices for hubs start from 1500 rubles.

The company supplies various types of spare parts to the conveyors of automobile concerns. Visitors to car enthusiast forums note selection of material, long service life, and durability among the advantages. Among the negative reviews, most are the opinions of people who bought a fake.

SNR

Manufacturer SNR is a French company operating since 1916. The firm's portfolio is widely represented in 120 countries. It produces components and mechatronics for cars and other equipment. Price tags vary based on placement (front or rear hub), size or purpose (car brand).

Minimum prices start from 500 rubles. Feedback from consumers regarding the parts confirms their strength and uninterrupted operation. There is feedback indicating that the front type of wheel bearing does not always withstand heavy loads.

F.A.G.

FAG is a leading European manufacturer that has entered the German aftermarket since 1883. Today, the number of its factories has gone far beyond the borders of its country of origin. The company produces affordable bearings with high functional performance.

Repairing the hub of Niva-21213 starcom68

How to Lubricate a Wheel Bearing Without Removing the Hub
Hub type 1. Manufacturer: VAZ JSC. Price 707 rubles in a store selling factory (?) spare parts. Rosstandart stamp.

Pay attention to how the place that comes into contact with the steering knuckle is designed. Here we see grooves of varying depths

Hub type 2. Purchased at the car market for 550 rubles. Manufacturer unknown. I purchased a hub of a similar design in Pskov several more times, since the loss of the original one. The difference is a slightly rougher surface treatment and the presence of an unfortunate yellowish ring at the point of contact with the end of the steering knuckle, where the factory hub has just a groove. Photographed after assembly with the brake disc.

Look - a hollow (U-shaped in cross-section) ring in the place where there should be a notch. When I first bought such a hub I asked what the hell it was

I was told that this was a “better” hub, so I continued to use this type of hub until today without paying attention to the ring and without being puzzled by its absence or presence

So today, after turning two different types of new hubs in my hands, I decided to see what the old ones looked like. They looked different. On the left is the left one, factory type 1, without ring. On the right is the right one with a ring - type 2.

Hub Type 1. Without ring, factory (?) Used for at least 4 years. The inner bearing has been removed. The outer one came out of place tightly, but its inner ring moves freely along the seat of the inner bearing and even spins merrily on it. The knurled collar prevents it from being completely removed. The oxidation layer (?) at the site of the outer bearing is preserved, but absent at the site of the internal one.

Hub Type 2. Used for a little over a year. The ring is heavily dented during use and shows signs of rotation and friction. The oil seal has not been removed, there are nicks on the seat from the chisel used to knock down the bearing

The seat for the inner bearing is worn, but less than that of the left hub; there is a fillet along the edge. It is because of this that the inner ring of the outer bearing cannot be removed, and in general the hub cannot be removed from the steering knuckle as required by the instructions.

Let's take a look at the steering knuckles. The left steering knuckle that worked with the factory hub. The condition of the contacting surfaces is almost perfect. O-ring (?) is in place and in good condition

The right steering knuckle, which worked with a hub with a ring. The condition is not very good. The sealing ring is crushed “to a cone” and has traces of friction during rotation against the ring on the hub. The oil seal is not pressed in completely, I realized this later, it is still recessed by 3 millimeters.

Now the actual questions: 1. How to achieve correct mating of the steering knuckle with the hub and ring (Type 2). Remove the ring from the hub or the knuckle? If both rings remain intact, they rub against each other and become deformed. Moreover, as I understand it, the correct (completely) seating of the bearings is not ensured.2. How far should you drive the oil seal in the photo above? Enough or all the way?3. Why do hubs fail so quickly and first of all the seats for internal bearings wear out, forming a shoulder? The bearings, most likely, would still be working if it were not for the need to disassemble the hub with a sledgehammer.4. How necessary is it to install spacer rings between the bearing and the seal? I only have one left, but I can’t buy it. And how is it installed correctly? Cone to the bearing or oil seal. I had a cone facing the oil seal, but I’m not sure it’s correct.5. Is it necessary to stuff lithol into the seals? Indications vary.

Well, as an epilogue, the machine is in progress. New steering rods made by Trek were installed, a front beam with a new pressed-in bushing, which turned out to be 1.8 mm shorter than the original one and also with chamfers removed from the inside, as a result of which the area of ​​​​the pressing surface to the washers decreased by about 1.5 times . There is a risk that the washers will, if not rotate, then be pressed inward.

Best rear wheel bearings

Finding good wheel bearings for the rear axle is a little easier, since they take on less load. Because of this, there were many contenders for the leading position. But only three products from Bavarian manufacturers passed the selection based on price/quality ratio.

NK 763924

Bavarian manufacturer of spare parts for cars in the budget segment. This brand produces: ball joints, levers, silent blocks, stabilizers and hub rollers. The last element is divided into 2,000 models that are suitable for all brands of passenger vehicles.

Replacement with the rack not removed

Design and operation Wheel bearing. What are bearings for?

This method will allow you to avoid subsequent collapse. Here you need to remove:

  • wheel together with disk;
  • caliper and the hub itself.

Replacement is carried out directly on the car, without removing the rack. Here you will have to work with a puller. The procedure is performed like this:

  • unscrew the bolts from the brake drum and remove it;
  • remove the ball joints;
  • pull out the CV joint from the front hub, and then remove it itself using a chisel;
  • the retaining ring is pulled out from the steering knuckle (it contains the outer part of the damaged bearing);
  • the puller is installed directly on the fist;
  • by tightening the bolt of the device, the part is pressed out;

When it completely leaves the axle, the protection is dismantled, then the hub is removed, from which the inner race is removed.

You can also remove the latter without a puller, but you will need a chisel for this. It’s also quite easy to score with a grinder and then split with a heavy hammer.

The best front wheel bearings

The budget price segment includes about 10 models of car front wheel bearings from French, Russian, Japanese, Swedish and Chinese manufacturers. Competing products differ from each other in size, appearance, rated load and established warranty period. But, as we wrote above, it was Japanese manufacturers who received the most positive reviews. They turned out to be the most reliable and high-quality in their group of products.

NSK ZA-34BWD04 BCA70

A Japanese company specializing in the production of automobile rollers. Factories producing products under the NSK brand are located in Germany, Poland and the UK. The manufacturer's entire model range includes more than 100,000 types of front and rear wheel bearings, as well as belt rollers and tensioners.

The sales leader, as of 2022, is the ZA-34BWD04 BCA70 universal type hub roller. Its dimensions are: 34x64x37 mm (internal diameter/external diameter/width). This part is compatible with the front axles of the following brands: Chevrolet, Daewoo, Lada, Volkswagen, Opel, Vauzhall and VAZ (models 2108-2112).

Advantages:

  • Withstands dynamic loads up to 3.5 tons;
  • Made from hardened steel;
  • Has a 2 year warranty from the developer;
  • A technical passport is included with the spare part.

Flaws:

  • High cost, as for the budget segment;
  • Suitable for passenger cars only.

If you do not know which wheel bearings to install on your car, then the ZA-34BWD04 BCA70 model will be a good option for you. The part is designed to withstand use on poor road surfaces. She is not afraid of potholes and off-road conditions. And when driving on good surfaces, the bearing can serve you twice as long as stated.

KOYO 2DUF058N5BR

KOYO is a Japanese roller skate manufacturer that works closely with Toyota Motor Corp. There are 33 factories around the world that produce products under this brand. The company's arsenal includes units for passenger cars, trucks, sports and special vehicles.

According to car owners, the highest quality bearing from KOYO bears the index 2DUF058N5BR. This is a universal element for off-road cars, crossovers and SUVs of the following brands: Skoda, Volkswagen, Audi, Toyota and Lexus. Used on the front axle hub.

Advantages:

  • The maximum dynamic load reaches 7.5 tons;
  • Material: high quality steel;
  • There is a 12 month warranty from the developer;
  • There is a technical passport.

Flaws:

  • High price compared to analogues;
  • Suitable for a limited number of vehicles.

Despite the fact that the manufacturer only gives a one-year warranty on its products, in practice they last much longer. According to reviews from car owners, the KOYO2 DUF058N5BR does not hum or wear out even after 2 years of use in difficult conditions. And the actual service life of such a part reaches 36 months.

SKF VKBA3961

SKF is the largest supplier of automotive bearings in Sweden. Factories producing products under the SKF brand are located in: Ukraine, India, China, Mexico, Russia, South Africa and some underdeveloped countries of Europe. The company's arsenal includes elements for ground vehicles, aircraft and even spacecraft.

SKF VKBA3961 – universal bearing for the front hub of a passenger car. Applicable on models: Honda, BMW, VAG, Volvo, Peugeot, Ford, Nissan, Toyota, Suzuki, Chrysler and Renault. The part size is: 48x86x42 mm (inner diameter/outer diameter/width).

Advantages:

  • The product has a QR code from which you can download installation instructions;
  • Availability of ABS;
  • High-quality material;
  • There is an additional o-ring.

Flaws:

  • Weight is twice that of analogues;
  • No warranty from the manufacturer.

The sellers themselves provide a 1-1.5 year guarantee for the SKF VKBA3961 bearing, since the actual service life of this part is at least 2 years. The Swedish manufacturer produces about 600,000 of these units per year.

What to look for when choosing bearings for a hub

When choosing wheel bearings, you should pay attention to the following nuances:

  • period of operation of the machine. If you continue to use the car, you should take high-quality foreign models. To sell a vehicle, inexpensive Chinese analogues will be sufficient;
  • choose those manufacturers who supply their goods to the assembly line (for car assembly). In this case, the quality of spare parts is confirmed by many tests of the automaker;
  • You can’t rely solely on size. Externally identical parts can differ greatly inside (for example, balls with different diameters). An unsuitable element will fail faster and can also lead to unit failure;
  • exposed bearings must be lubricated before installation. Choose high-quality wheel bearing lubricant, the service life of which corresponds to the period of operation of the bearing;
  • It is better to entrust the installation to professionals (especially if you do not have the appropriate experience and equipment). Otherwise, you can only damage the part.

If you don’t know which bearings are better, then you should take a closer look at more famous brands. In this case, you will receive reliable and durable parts that will serve you for a long period.

List of suppliers


These companies own many factories around the world, producing products of similar quality that meet the most stringent requirements.

If you need bearings for agricultural machinery, then it is better to pay attention to FKL, a Russian company located in Voronezh. Parts from this company have been supplied to all European countries for 50 years, are known for their high quality, and have no analogues in the world.

Bearings for cars of the Russian automobile industry

The domestic auto industry, which produces passenger cars, still uses old types of bearings in production - single-row roller bearings. Only AvtoVAZ switched to two-row closed hub type HUB-1. HUB-1 means there are no flanges on the body for mounting to the hub. Therefore, owners of Russian car brands have a question about which wheel bearings are better. The most common vehicles on Russian roads today are VAZ 2110, GAZelle, and UAZ Hunter. Of course, you can purchase original parts, but they are often twice as expensive as similar ones from other factories. Let's look at the example of these particular brands of companies that produce the necessary parts.

Bearings for VAZ 2110

For the modern line of VAZ passenger cars (except Niva 4x4, Chevy Niva), three standard sizes of wheel bearings are produced:

  • 256907 - for front-wheel drive VAZ 2108-2112;

  • 256707 - on Granta, Kalina;

  • 256706 - on the rear axle.

All these models belong to HUB-1, double-row, ball, closed, angular contact. Lada Granta and Kalina differ only in height.

Traditional suppliers of bearings for cars from Togliatti are 5 factories:

  • CJSC "LADA Image" - manufactures and sells original Lada wheel bearings through secondary markets;

  • Saratov plant - produces parts under the SPZ brand;

  • Volzhsky Plant - uses the Volzhsky Standard brand;

  • Vologda plant - sells products under the VBF brand;

  • Samara plant SPZ-9.

The price-quality ratio of these factories is optimal. The cheapest products are those from the Samara plant (less than 200 rubles), other companies on average sell parts costing 230-275 rubles.

Bearings for UAZ

UAZ hubs use bearing 127509 - roller, conical, single-row, angular contact. There are additional parts marked: A - reinforced and AK - with minor design changes. The part can withstand large axial loads, so the car can be operated in difficult road conditions.

Parts of this type are produced by the Samara and Saratov plants, already mentioned above, as well as the Moscow GPZ-2 and Lutsk (LPZ) plants.

The most affordable products are from GPZ-2, the cost is 182 rubles.

Bearings for GAZelle

The front hubs of GAZelles are equipped with two tapered bearings, roller, angular contact, single-row. The outer one is marked 7305АШ, the inner one is marked 7307А. Both are designed to handle heavy loads.

Such bearings are manufactured at the Volzhsky and Saratov plants. The kit often consists of two bearings, fasteners, lubricant, stopper, and seals. The cost of such a kit from VPZ is 350 rubles.

In addition to Russian manufacturers, there are foreign companies that produce similar products, but prices are usually higher.

Before purchasing parts for hub repair, carefully study which suppliers offer the highest quality products, and check that the parts have the appropriate engraving. It’s better not to try to buy cheap, low-quality parts, because your safety depends on it, and such “savings” can lead to a major breakdown and a serious accident.

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Tips for choosing

Never select bearings based on size alone. Inside 2 identical bearings there can be balls of different diameters, designed for small or large loads. An incorrectly selected spare part will quickly fail.

1. Buy spare parts at auto stores or service stations

This reduces the risk of error when choosing a part, especially if the car owner is poorly versed in the technical part of the car. Experts will tell you which wheel bearings are suitable for your car.

2. Avoid unlabeled products

High-quality wheel bearings have factory markings at the bottom or top of the part, consisting of numbers and letters. The marking contains information about the manufacturer, country and date of manufacture, size, etc.

3. Use specialized programs

Wheel bearing selection becomes easier when you use different applications. For example, the TecDoc program allows you to select a part from different manufacturers that is similar to the original spare part.

Sources

  • https://AutoTuning.expert/rating/luchshie-stupichnye-podshipniki-dlya-avto.html
  • https://AvtoDesign67.ru/kakoj-podshipnik-stupiczy-luchshe.html
  • https://soloserv.ru/avto/kakie-stupichnye-podshipniki-luchshe
  • https://MarkaKachestva.ru/best-brands/3299-luchshie-proizvoditeli-stupichnyh-podshipnikov.html
  • https://dns-magazin.ru/rejting/stupichnyh-podshipnikov.html
  • https://st-autoimage.ru/avtomobilistu/luchshie-stupichnye-podshipniki-dlya-avto-rejting-nadezhnyh-modelej-po-kachestvu.html
  • https://InvestGazeta.ru/rejting/kakie-stupichnye-podshipniki-luchshe.html
  • https://avtomotoprof.ru/avtoakssesuaryi/luchshiy-stupichnyiy-podshipnik/

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