The breather “SMOKES”...Or the effect of breather ON IDLE STABILITY!
When was the last time you cleaned the crankcase ventilation? If it’s been too long, clean the system; it won’t take long! To understand whether it’s time to clean the system or not, you will have to remove the breather and if everything is dirty, then clean the system, and go inside the hoses with a rag to remove all the dirt! .Guys...Strong breathing damages idle speed...swimming, stalling and its absence... ˜ Dear subscribers! We recommend that you visit the website - https://minibk.ru. Here you will find information about a multifunctional device that allows you to measure fuel consumption, including gas, if the car is equipped with an LPG system, measures temperature and on-board voltage, and can answer the question - “What time is it now?” The developer of the device is our friend Alexey Tretyakov, an excellent specialist in the field of microelectronics and just a good person.
Engine knock
If at one point you begin to hear extraneous knocks and noise when the engine is running, you need to pay serious attention to this.
It is best to stop immediately and try to find out the reasons. Because in some cases, continuing to operate the engine can be very dangerous. Let's look at the most common problems associated with knocking.
The main bearings are knocking. This is very dangerous, so you need to turn off the engine immediately. You will have to tow the car to the repair site. The problem can be easily recognized: the sound has a low pitch. It comes from the bottom of the crankcase and increases when you press the gas pedal. The oil pressure sensor turns on. The connecting rod bearings are knocking. You need to turn off the engine immediately. His further work is very dangerous. You will have to go to the repair site in tow. The sound is resonant, has a metallic tint, a medium tone and a certain rhythm. Intensifies with increasing load. Piston pins are knocking
You must continue to operate the engine very carefully. It’s better to slowly go straight to the place of repair
The sound has a high metallic tone with sharp tones and is rhythmic. If you disconnect the spark plug, it goes away immediately. Cylinders or pistons are knocking due to wear. You can continue driving, but without putting too much load on the engine. It is better to immediately go to the repair site. The sound is very similar to the knocking of clay dishes. It sounds more clearly until the engine has warmed up to operating temperature. As the engine warms up, it gradually quiets down. Valves are knocking. You can continue to move carefully, but it is better to head straight to the repair site. There is a dull noise with metallic knocks. Knocks are especially audible at low and medium speeds. It comes from the side where the valves are located. Engine detonation. You should immediately go carefully to the repair site. Sounds occur during acceleration. The problem is resolved by installing a later ignition. The problem may arise due to poor ignition control, due to the use of low octane fuel, or due to engine overload as a result of early engagement of a high gear. You also need to check if there is carbon deposits in the combustion chambers.
Oil in the air filter and bellows, cause and solution.
No, this is not normal, the oil flies because the breather is too dirty and all the emulsion and this oil flies into the engine when it is running, after cleaning the crankcase ventilation, the oil will stop flying and if you constantly keep this system clean, it will not harm the engine! The Auto_Repair channel will help you troubleshoot your car yourself. We do not waste your time, but try to make our videos as informative and short as possible to save your time. No water, just the essence. On our channel you will find various information on car repair and operation. No water, just the essence. There are also many more interesting experiments in the plans, subscribe to the channel, write comments, like, we are always happy to have live communication. Our peculiarity is that the material is presented in an accessible way, even a child can understand it, but if we miss something, feel free to ask, we are always happy to help.
Necessary tool
To clean the breather on a VAZ engine, check and replace the hoses, you don’t need any special skills or specialized equipment; a standard kit is enough. To complete the work you will need:
- set of keys No. 7-13;
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- washing liquid, kerosene will do;
- container where washing will take place;
- rags;
- breather gasket;
- heat-resistant silicone-based sealant;
- if necessary, a set of new hoses will be required - separately for the carburetor and injector.
This tool can be found in any garage, so there are no problems with its selection. It is better to take rags that do not separate into individual elements, since during washing they can get into the engine.
Crankcase ventilation - system modification.
The stock engine produced in '71 is equipped with an additional (narrow) tube for crankcase gases and is connected to the air housing. I disconnected it from the body and plugged it, and directed the main hose from the breather into the beam. In general, anyone who more or less understands engine design knows that the so-called “crankcase gases” are removed from it through vacuum in the intake system. Naturally, not only “gases” get there, but also oil vapors, which is extremely undesirable, since the throttle valve becomes dirty and the combustion of the fuel-air mixture worsens. So I decided to improve the ventilation system.
Engine knock
If at one point you begin to hear extraneous knocks and noise when the engine is running, you need to pay serious attention to this. It is best to stop right away and try to find out the reasons. Indeed, in some cases, continuing to operate the engine can be very dangerous.
Let's look at the most common problems associated with knocking
Indeed, in some cases, continuing to operate the engine can be very dangerous. Let's look at the most common problems associated with knocking.
The main bearings are knocking. This is very dangerous, so you need to turn off the engine immediately. You will have to tow the car to the repair site. The problem can be easily recognized: the sound has a low pitch. It comes from the bottom of the crankcase and increases when you press the gas pedal. The oil pressure sensor turns on.
The connecting rod bearings are knocking. You need to turn off the engine immediately. His further work is very dangerous. You will have to go to the repair site in tow. The sound is resonant, has a metallic tint, a medium tone and a certain rhythm. Intensifies with increasing load.
Piston pins are knocking
You must continue to operate the engine very carefully. It is better to go slowly and immediately to the place of repair. The sound has a high metallic tone with sharp shades, rhythmic
If you disconnect the spark plug, it disappears immediately
The sound has a high metallic tone with sharp tones and is rhythmic. If you disconnect the spark plug, it goes away immediately.
Cylinders or pistons are knocking due to wear. You can continue driving, but without putting too much load on the engine. It is better to immediately go to the repair site. The sound is very similar to the knocking of clay dishes. It sounds more clearly until the engine has warmed up to operating temperature. As the engine warms up, it gradually quiets down.
Valves knocking
You can continue to move carefully, but it is better to head straight to the repair site. There is a dull noise with metallic knocks
Knocks are especially audible at low and medium speeds. It comes from the side where the valves are located.
Engine knock
You should immediately go carefully to the repair site. Sounds occur during acceleration
The problem is resolved by installing a later ignition. The problem may arise due to poor ignition control, due to the use of low octane fuel, or due to engine overload as a result of early engagement of a high gear. You also need to check if there is carbon deposits in the combustion chambers.
breather!2107
Hello everyone, please don’t delete the topic, what should I do (the breather smokes terribly, it all stinks; the breather has already been brought out under the body closer to the rear axle and it still stinks in the cabin (what should I do for the first time? Then I’ll install another engine, maybe turn off the breather? Just don’t advice like making capital or changing rings for this engine for a while. engine 21011
Tags: breather 2107
Comments 53
don't try to plug it up, it will suppress oil from everywhere
As a temporary option, take it back to where the muffler is or do everything wisely, clean the ventilation channels and return it to the air filter.
I cleaned all the channels today and returned it to the Filter. One horseradish seems to be coming from the filter, causing a smell to appear in the cabin.
The motor means dead. Be patient, since the option is temporary, there will be an incentive to quickly solve the problem with the new engine)
Happiness does not lie in capital. happiness lies in cleaning the engine ventilation duct. Several people have already indicated what exactly needs to be done. If you’re too lazy to put your hands and head to the engine, then I can only wish that I could continue playing around with the hoses and breathing in muck.
I stuck the breather that had been installed under the bottom into the air vent before I did, so it poured oil into it properly. Then I just cleaned the lid and mesh, threw the hose outside again, and that’s it, no problem.
Disassemble the breather separator, clean it, wash it. Buy flame arresters 4 pcs. Place two pipes at the bottom, one after the other, two at the top in front of the pan. Coat the connections of the pipe with sealant, in the places where you tighten them with clamps and on the pan around the place where the pipe is attached. There won't be any smell if you do everything tightly. Check if there is any rubber on the pan or on the lid.
How can it stink in the pan? If only you smell it. I have little idea what condition the engine must be in for it to stink, and even from a pan
Well, I don’t know, there is a smell in the cabin
Leopold Stotch
How can it stink in the pan? If only you smell it. I have little idea what condition the engine must be in for it to stink, and even from a pan
+1 Only an oil sump and only in a regular place.
Why did you even remove it from its original place? Put it back in the pan and it won't stink anywhere.
he stank in the pan and threw oil
Install an oil sump. You can’t turn it off...
There are two options - endure or capitalize. If it were possible to drown it out, they wouldn’t do it at all.
I changed the rings and liners last year, but apparently it needs some capital. The last time there was capital was in 2000. Do you think capital is still needed?
did you look at the CPG and the knee? Well, it depends on what kind of rings you got. there was also a leak from the breather on my brother’s basin. Replaced rings and valve stem seals. Naturally, everything was washed. there are no problems. True, the mileage is only a couple of thousand.
VAZ rings. I changed it last August. There is no blue smoke, but white smoke comes out of the breather, but a little more. I installed a homemade oil catcher. Maybe the oil is of poor quality? I add liquid molly 15 to 40 mineral water. Maybe change to synthetics? Or order oil from Germany. I don’t know what to do anymore.
First, read smart books and forums. synthetics will leak immediately. this time. secondly, the basin will never move like that in its life, even from a mountain, so that the properties of synthetic oils are needed. Enough with the semi-synthetics. that's two. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to pour semi-synthetics into a half-dead engine - most likely it will leak everywhere you can think of. that's three. I don't know what you have there. Only an autopsy will tell, but my brother also had no smoke from the chimney, and the carb was clogged up like crazy. They threw the breather into the atmosphere - the entire engine compartment was covered in oil. analysis showed many minor problems from the oil pump to valve wear. Everything was treated, the ride didn’t get any better, but the smoke from the breather disappeared, plus some minor improvements. The oil was filled with Gazpromneft mineral water.
Thanks for the advice.
drive and smell until you install a working internal combustion engine
Well, throw it away, don’t think about putting it in 07
