The supply of electricity to all consumers of the VAZ 2101 is carried out using two sources. The battery supplies the car with electricity when the engine is not running, and the VAZ 2101 generator provides power to instruments and devices when the engine is running, as well as charging the battery.
The electrical system of the VAZ 2101 is designed according to a single-wire circuit. This means that only one wire goes to each on-board consumer, coming from the positive contact of the battery. The connection to the negative contact is made through ground, that is, the body of the VAZ 2101 car. The connection diagram for the VAZ 2101 generator is also single-wire.
Features of the VAZ 2101 generator
VAZ 2101 has two sources of electricity - a battery and a generator. The first is used when the engine is off, and the second while driving. The operating principle of the VAZ 2101 generator is based on the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction. It produces only alternating current, which is converted into direct current by a special device.
VAZ 2101 is considered one of the longest-living models, largely due to the performance of the generator
The main task of the generator is to uninterruptedly generate electric current to maintain the functionality of all electronic devices in the car, including recharging the battery.
Technical characteristics of the VAZ 2101 generator
The generator is connected to a crankshaft pulley that drives the water pump. Therefore, in the VAZ 2101 it is installed in the engine compartment to the right of the engine. The generator has the following technical characteristics:
- rated voltage - 12 V;
- maximum current - 52 A;
- the direction of rotation of the rotor is to the right (relative to the motor housing);
- weight (without adjustment unit) - 4.28 kg.
The manufacturer installed G-221 generators on the VAZ 2101
Scheme of the “penny” brake system
1 – front brake protective housing; 2, 18 – pipelines connecting two cylinders of the front brake caliper; 3 – caliper; 4 – hydraulic drive reservoir; 5 – brake light switch; 6 – parking brake lever; 7 – adjusting eccentrics of the right rear brake; 8 – fitting for bleeding the hydraulic drive of the rear brakes; 9 – pressure regulator; 10 – stop signal; 11 – rear brake wheel cylinder; 12 – lever for manual drive of the pads and expansion bar; 13 – adjusting eccentric of the left rear brake; 14 – brake pad; 15 – rear cable guide; 16 – guide roller; 17 – brake pedal; 19 – fitting for bleeding the hydraulic drive of the front brakes; 20 – brake disc; 21 – main cylinder
The 2101 brake system has two circuits that provide independent drive of the front and rear wheel brakes. Both circuits are driven by a single pedal, which is attached to the front panel of the body using a bracket along with the clutch pedal.
Selecting a generator for VAZ 2101
The manufacturer equipped the VAZ 2101 with generators of the G-221 model. The maximum current of 52 A was enough to operate all standard electrical appliances. However, the installation of additional equipment by car owners (powerful acoustics, navigator, additional headlights, etc.) led to the fact that the G-221 could no longer cope with increased loads. There was a need to replace the generator with a more powerful one.
Without any problems, you can install the following devices on the VAZ 2101:
- A generator from a VAZ 2105 with a maximum current of 55 A. The power is enough to operate a conventional speaker system and, for example, an additional LED strip for lighting. It is installed on standard mounts for the VAZ 2101 generator. The only differences are that the regulator relay is built into the generator housing, while on the G-221 it is located separately.
- Generator from VAZ 2106 with a maximum current of 55 A. Withstands slight overloads. Installed on standard G-221 mounts.
- Generator from VAZ 21074 with a maximum current of 73 A. Its power is sufficient to operate any additional electrical equipment. It is installed on standard VAZ 2101 mounts, but the connection diagram is slightly different.
- Generator from VAZ 2121 Niva with a maximum current of 80 A. The most powerful among its analogues. However, its installation on the VAZ 2101 will require significant modifications.
- Generators from foreign cars. The best option is generators from Fiat. Installing such a device on a VAZ 2101 will require noticeable changes in the design of the generator mounting and its connection diagram without guarantees of high-quality operation.
Photo gallery: generators for VAZ 2101
The generator from the VAZ 2105 is installed on the standard mounts of the VAZ 2101
The generator from the VAZ 2106 can withstand slight overloads and is installed on standard G-221 mounts
The generator power from the VAZ 21074 is sufficient to operate any additional electrical equipment
It is quite difficult to install a Niva generator on a VAZ 2101
In fact, it will be enough for the driver of a VAZ 2101 to install a generator from a “six” or “seven” to satisfy all his electricity needs. Even with complex tuning, a power of 60–70 amperes is enough to maintain the operation of all devices.
Cost and interchangeability
Built-in relay voltage regulator 71.3702 for generator G-222
The average price for a voltage regulator, both built into the brushes and remote, is about 100 rubles.
Models of generators G-221 and G-222 are interchangeable, that is, you can easily install a new generator from the “seven” for a “penny”, but you should pay attention to the correct charge of the battery. To do this, it is necessary to modify the electrical wiring according to the standard connection diagram.
Depending on the situation, either install an external voltage regulator relay, or, conversely, remove the external one and leave one built into the generator.
The normal voltage in the car's on-board network is considered to be in the range of 13.5-14.5 Volts.
Any car, including the VAZ 2101, has two sources of power supply - a battery and a generator. The generator ensures the operation of all electrical appliances while driving. Its failure can cause a lot of trouble for the car owner. However, diagnosing a malfunction and repairing a VAZ 2101 generator with your own hands is quite simple.
Connection diagram for the VAZ 2101 generator
The VAZ 2101 generator is connected using a single-wire circuit - one wire from the generator is connected to each device. This makes it easy to connect the generator yourself.
The VAZ 2101 generator is connected using a single-wire circuit
Features of connecting the VAZ 2101 generator
Several multi-colored wires are connected to the VAZ 2101 generator:
- the yellow wire comes from the warning light on the dashboard;
- a thick gray wire goes from the regulator relay to the brushes;
- a thin gray wire goes to the relay;
- The orange wire acts as an additional connector and is usually connected to a thin gray wire during installation.
Incorrect connection of wires can cause a short circuit or voltage surges in the electrical circuit of the VAZ 2101.
For ease of installation, the wires for connecting the VAZ 2101 generator are painted in different colors
The device of the VAZ 2101 generator
For its time, the design of the G-221 generator turned out to be quite successful. It was installed without modifications on subsequent models of the plant - VAZ 2102 and VAZ 2103. With proper maintenance and timely replacement of failed elements, it could be used for many years.
Structurally, the G-221 generator consists of the following main elements:
- rotor;
- stator;
- regulator relay;
- semiconductor bridge;
- brushes;
- pulley.
The G-221 generator is attached to the engine on a special bracket. This allows you to firmly fix the device and at the same time protect it from high temperatures.
The bracket firmly fixes the generator even when driving on uneven roads
Rotor
The rotor is the moving part of the generator. It consists of a shaft, onto the corrugated surface of which a steel sleeve and beak-shaped poles are pressed. This design serves as the core of an electromagnet rotating in two ball bearings. Bearings must be closed type. Otherwise, due to lack of lubrication, they will quickly fail.
The rotor (armature) is the moving part of the generator
Pulley
The pulley can be considered either part of the generator or a separate element. It is installed on the rotor shaft and can be easily removed if necessary. When the engine is running, the pulley rotates by the crankshaft through the belt and transmits torque to the rotor. To prevent the pulley from overheating, there are special blades on its surface that provide natural ventilation.
The generator pulley is driven by the crankshaft through a belt.
Stator with windings
The stator consists of a number of special plates made of electrical steel. To increase resistance to loads in four places on the outer surface, these plates are connected by welding. A winding of copper wire is laid on them in special grooves. In total, the stator contains three windings, each of which consists of two coils. Thus, six coils are used to generate electricity by the generator.
The stator consists of plates made of electrical steel, on which a winding of copper wire is laid
Regulator relay
The regulator relay is a small plate with an electrical circuit inside, designed to control the voltage at the output of the generator. On the VAZ 2101, the relay is located outside the generator and is mounted on the rear cover from the outside.
The regulator relay is designed to control the voltage at the generator output
Brushes
Generating electricity from a generator is impossible without brushes. They are located in the brush holder and attached to the stator.
Only two brushes are fixed in the brush holder of the G-221 generator
Diode bridge
The rectifier (or diode bridge) is a horseshoe-shaped plate with built-in six diodes that converts alternating current to direct current. It is important that all diodes are in good working order - otherwise the generator will not be able to provide power to all electrical appliances.
The diode bridge is a horseshoe-shaped plate
Possibility of modification of the device and methods used
The standard generator of your VAZ 2101 does not require modification. Changing its design does not lead to an increase in maximum speed, increase in torque, or increase in efficiency. But this doesn’t stop true auto-tuning fans. In their quest to disassemble and remake everything in the car that is possible and most of what is not, they get to the VAZ 2101 generator.
Typically the unit is modified to improve one or both of the following parameters:
- maximum current;
- maximum voltage.
An increase in these indicators does not lead to an improvement in the functioning of the car. Moreover, operation of the VAZ-2101 electrical system at increased current and voltage carries certain risks. Overloaded wiring can heat up, melt and even catch fire. At increased voltage, the battery, which is not designed for such a load, will fail. But that doesn't stop real fans. And they begin to improve it. To be fair, it must be said that increasing the parameters of the VAZ 2101 generator by 10–15% usually gets away with it.
To increase the output of the generator, it is necessary to change the four-diode control unit to an eight-diode one, which has increased parameters. The difficulty is that the eight-diode bridge provides three connection points, while the standard unit has two. This means that you have to organize an additional connection point.
The sequence of work on a generator removed from the vehicle and disassembled is as follows.
- In the place where the output contact is soldered to the stator winding, remove the insulation section.
- Solder an additional contact. Make sure that the thickness of the wire of the new contact matches the diameter of the old wire.
- Insulate the soldering area with heat-shrinkable polymer tube of a suitable diameter.
After assembling the VAZ 2101 generator, connect the new eight-diode bridge through three contacts of the modernized configuration. Reinstall the unit. If you don’t want to do this, but want to increase productivity, you can simply replace the standard generator of your VAZ 2101 with a version from the VAZ 2107 or VAZ 2110 model. The unit from the “seven” fits into the standard mounting location, but for the “ten” you will have to purchase or make it yourself a special spacer for its fastening, because the standard unit is fixed on one bracket, and the VAZ 2110 generator uses two. The maximum current of the original unit is 55 amperes, and that of the VAZ 2110 generator is 80 amperes. Feel the difference.
On the “classic” you can find 2 types of voltage regulator relays: built into the generator and external. The difference lies in the model of the generator that is installed on the car.
On older Zhiguli models (VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2106, 2121 with carburetor engines) a G-221 generator is installed, and the external voltage regulator is a small “box”, which is secured with two nuts on the left mudguard of the body. It is precisely the replacement of such a regulator that will be discussed in this article.
On later VAZ models (2104, 2105 and 2107) there is a G-222 generator, and the voltage regulator is already built into the generator housing and is a small black “tablet”.
Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the VAZ 2101 generator
There are a number of signs and signals by which you can determine that the generator is faulty.
The charging indicator light comes on
On the dashboard of the VAZ 2101 there is a battery charging indicator. It lights up if the battery charge is close to zero. This usually happens when the generator is faulty, when electrical appliances are powered from the battery. Most often the light comes on for the following reasons:
- Slipping of the V-belt on the generator pulley. It is recommended to check the belt tension, and if there is severe wear, replace it with a new one.
- Failure of the battery charging indicator relay. You should check the serviceability of the relay using a multimeter.
- Break in the stator winding. It is necessary to disassemble the generator and clean all its elements.
- Severe brush wear. All brushes in the holder will need to be replaced, even if only one of them is worn out.
- Short circuit in the diode bridge circuit. The burned out diode or the entire bridge should be replaced.
The battery indicator lights up if the battery charge is close to zero.
Battery won't charge
One of the tasks of the generator is to recharge the battery while driving. If this does not happen, you should pay attention to the following points.
- Sagging V-belt. It is necessary to adjust its tension or replace it.
- Loosening of the wire ends connecting the generator to the battery. All contacts should be cleaned or damaged tips should be replaced.
- Battery failure. This can be checked and fixed by installing a new battery.
- Damage to the voltage regulator. It is recommended to clean all contacts of the regulator and check the integrity of the wires.
The problem with the battery not charging is most often associated with a malfunction of the battery itself.
The battery is boiling over
If the battery begins to boil away, then, as a rule, its service life is coming to an end. In order not to risk the new battery, it is recommended to accurately identify the cause of boiling. It could be:
- Lack of permanent contact between the generator voltage regulator housing and ground. It is recommended to clean the contacts and replace them if necessary.
- Short circuit in the regulator. The voltage regulator needs to be replaced.
- Battery failure. A new battery must be installed.
If the battery begins to boil away, it will need to be replaced in the near future.
Loud noise while driving
The VAZ 2101 generator usually operates quite noisily. The cause of the noise is the presence of contacting and rubbing elements in the generator design. If this noise has become unusually loud, knocking, whistling and rumbles have appeared, it is necessary to identify the cause of this situation. This is usually due to the following problems.
- Loosening the fixing nut on the generator pulley. Tighten the nut and check all fastener joints.
- Bearing failure. You will need to disassemble the generator and replace the bearings.
- Short circuit in the stator winding. The stator assembly needs to be replaced.
- Brushes creaking. It is recommended to clean the contacts and brush surfaces.
Any extraneous noise from the generator is a reason to troubleshoot
Removing and installing the voltage regulator
Replacing the external voltage regulator VAZ 2101-2106
1) Using the “8” socket, unscrew the two nuts and remove the regulator.
2) Disconnect the two wires.
3) Attach the new regulator to the mudguard and connect the wires: orange to terminal “15”, and gray to terminal “67”.
Voltage regulator relay connection diagram
ATTENTION! Before starting the engine, make sure that the contact between the voltage regulator housing and the vehicle ground is reliable, and that the wires to terminals “15” and “67” are connected correctly.
Checking the functionality of the VAZ 2101 generator
The generator going out and breaking down is a rather unpleasant situation. Experts recommend periodically (at least twice a year) assessing its performance to determine the remaining resource.
You cannot check the functionality of the generator on a VAZ 2101 when disconnected from the battery while the engine is running, since there is a high probability of a voltage surge.
This can be done either at a stand in a service station or using an oscilloscope. However, no less accurate results can be obtained in a garage using a conventional multimeter.
Checking the generator with a multimeter
To test the generator, you can use either an analog or digital multimeter.
The specificity of the test does not allow the work to be carried out alone. Therefore, it is necessary to invite a friend in advance, since one person will have to be in the cabin, and the other will have to monitor the readings of the multimeter in the engine compartment of the car.
You can check the performance of the VAZ 2101 generator using a multimeter
The verification algorithm is extremely simple and consists of performing the following steps.
- The multimeter is set to DC current measurement mode.
- The device is connected to the battery terminals. With the engine not running, it should show between 11.9 and 12.6 V.
- The interior assistant starts the engine and leaves it idling.
- When the engine starts, the multimeter readings are recorded. If the voltage drops sharply, the generator's life is insignificant. If the voltage, on the contrary, jumps (to about 14.5 V), then the excess charge will lead to the battery boiling in the near future.
Video: checking the VAZ 2101 generator
The norm is a small voltage drop when the engine starts and a quick recovery of performance characteristics.
Do-it-yourself VAZ 2101 generator repair
Repairing a VAZ 2101 generator with your own hands is quite simple. All work can be divided into five stages:
- Removing the generator from the car.
- Disassembling the generator.
- Troubleshooting.
- Replacement of worn out and faulty elements with new ones.
- Generator assembly.
First stage: dismantling the generator
To dismantle the VAZ 2101 generator you will need:
- open-end wrenches for 10, 17 and 19;
- mounting blade.
Before dismantling the generator, you must disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
To remove the generator you will need to perform the following steps:
- Remove the right front wheel from the vehicle.
- Securely secure the car on a jack and additional supports.
- Climb under the car on the right side and find the generator housing.
- Loosen, but do not completely unscrew the housing fixing nut.
- Loosen, but do not completely unscrew the nut on the bracket stud.
- To loosen the V-belt, slightly move the generator housing.
- Disconnect the power cable going to the generator.
- Disconnect all wires and contact connections.
- Remove the fixing nuts, pull the generator towards you and remove it from the studs.
Video: dismantling the VAZ 2101 generator
Stage two: disassembling the generator
The removed generator should be wiped with a soft cloth, removing the main layer of dirt. To disassemble the device you will need:
- open-end and ring wrenches 19;
- extension;
- heads for 8 and 10;
- hammer.
Before disassembling the generator, it is best to prepare small containers for storing washers, screws and bolts. Because there are a lot of small details in the design of the generator, and in order to understand them later, it is better to classify the elements in advance.
Disassembling the VAZ 2101 generator is quite simple
The disassembly itself is carried out in the following order:
- Unscrew the four nuts on the back cover of the generator.
- The nuts securing the pulley to the body are unscrewed.
- The pulley is removed.
- The housing is divided into two parts (one will contain the stator, the other will contain the rotor).
- The winding is removed from the part with the stator.
- The shaft with bearings will be pulled out from the part with the rotor.
Further disassembly involves pressing out the bearings.
Video: disassembling the VAZ 2101 generator
Third stage: generator troubleshooting
At the troubleshooting stage, faults of individual generator elements are identified and eliminated. In this case, some of the work can be performed at the disassembly stage. Particular attention should be paid to:
- signs of wear on the surfaces of parts;
- the appearance of carbon deposits on wires and contacts;
- the presence of dirt and working fluids inside the generator housing;
- cracks, nicks and other mechanical damage to parts.
All damaged and worn elements must be replaced with new ones.
When troubleshooting, you do not need to pay attention to the generator housing: after several years of service, it may have an unsightly appearance, but at the same time it will protect the insides of the device well.
Stage four: generator repair
The difficulty of repairing the G-221 generator is that it is difficult to find spare parts for it. If bearings can still be purchased on the Internet, then choosing a suitable winding or rectifier will be very difficult.
Video: repair of VAZ 2101 generator
"Kopeyka" left the factory assembly line in 1970. Mass production ended in 1983. Since Soviet times, AvtoVAZ has not produced spare parts for repairing the rare model.
Therefore, the list of situations for repairing a VAZ 2101 generator is very limited. So, if bearings jam or brushes wear out, replacement elements can be easily found in car dealerships.
Worth checking out:
Next, the generator is assembled in the reverse order. The rotor is reinstalled using hammer blows
At the very end of assembly it is important to lock the bolts
Recommendation: if the capacitor seating surface is sanded, the contact will improve and become more stable.
Car owners who have an outdated version of the diode bridge installed may encounter difficulties with the output of pin 61, because it is difficult to fit into the hole on the back cover. One way to solve the problem is to enlarge the hole with a file.
After all the above steps have been completed, the repair of the VAZ 2101 generator can be considered complete. Next, you need to install it on the vehicle and test it in action.
Alternator belt VAZ 2101
In classic VAZ models, the generator is driven by a V-belt 944 mm long. On a VAZ 2101 you can also install a belt with a length of 930 mm, but other options are no longer suitable.
The factory equipment of the generator involves the use of a belt 2101–1308020 with a smooth surface and dimensions 10x8x944 mm.
The old-style VAZ 2101 generator belt has a smooth surface
The alternator belt is located in the front of the car and connects three pulleys at once:
- generator pulley;
- water pump pulley;
- crankshaft pulley.
How to properly tension the alternator belt
When replacing the alternator belt, it is extremely important to tension it correctly. Any deviation from the norm will affect the operation of VAZ 2101 electrical appliances.
To tighten the VAZ 2101 generator belt, use a crowbar, spatula or thick screwdriver
Reasons for replacing the alternator belt are:
- the appearance of cracks and signs of severe wear on the belt;
- belt break;
- manufacturing defects.
To replace the belt you will need:
- mounting spatula (or metal crowbar);
- wrenches 17 and 19.
The work is performed in the following order:
- Reinstall the generator by tightening the two mounting nuts halfway. The nuts must be tightened until the stroke of the generator housing exceeds 2 cm.
- Insert a pry bar or pry bar between the generator housing and the water pump housing.
- Place the belt on the pulleys.
- Without releasing pressure from the pry bar, tighten the strap.
- Tighten the top nut securing the generator.
- Check the belt tension. It should not be too tight or, conversely, sagging.
- Tighten the bottom nut.
Video: tensioning the VAZ 2101 alternator belt
To make sure that the belt has a working degree of tension, it is necessary to sell its free space with your finger after completing the work. The rubber should yield no more than 1.5 centimeters.
Thus, even an inexperienced car enthusiast can independently diagnose the malfunction, repair and replace the VAZ 2101 generator. This does not require any special skills or exclusive tools. However, you should not overestimate your strength either. It must be remembered that a generator is an electrical device, and in the event of an error, the consequences for the machine can be quite serious.
How to remove the generator
To carry out dismantling you will need the following tools:
- Wrenches for 10, 13 and 17.
- Mounting blade.
- Penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
Initially, disconnect the battery and disconnect the wires from the generator. It is advisable to carry out all work with the front part of the car slightly raised or on an inspection hole or overpass. Before removing the generator, you need to loosen the drive belt. To do this, completely unscrew the nut from the upper stud securing the housing to the engine block using a 17mm wrench. There shouldn't be any problems with it.
The generator housing must be moved towards the block, after which you remove the belt. It will be problematic to loosen the lower mounting bolt. It is close to the ground, dust, dirt, and water often fall on it. Therefore, treat the threaded connection with penetrating lubricant in advance.
