Granta won't start, relay clicks

Lada Granta is a popular and reliable car of the Russian concern AvtoVAZ, which was developed on the basis of the Lada Kalina model.

This is an inexpensive “people’s” car with front-wheel drive, which has firmly won its niche in the market. Its factory marking is VAZ 2190, serial production began in October 2011.

Technical characteristics : in terms of body type, the Lada Granta is a five-seater four-door sedan or liftback (hatchback) with an engine capacity of 1.6 liters. Manual 5 or automatic 4-speed gearbox, depending on the model.

The car is equipped with front-wheel drive, independent front and semi-independent rear suspension. Available in “standard”, “norm” and “luxury” trim levels.

The “luxury” package includes electric power steering, an ABS system, power windows, air conditioning and a modern audio system.

The disadvantage of this car is flaws in the design, not always high-quality assembly and frequent problems with starting the engine.

Battery, wiring, terminals

As a rule, relay clicks indicate that the device is working. When the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, the car does not start most often due to the fact that the starter does not have enough electric current to spin the crankshaft. If there was no power supplied to the starter at all, we would not hear any clicks.

Most often, this situation arises due to a banal battery discharge (or simply a low charge level). It is not difficult to identify this problem; if, when you turn the ignition key, the solenoid relay clicks and the lights on the instrument panel go out, then the problem is in the battery.

Remember that sometimes you won’t be able to solve the problem by simply charging the battery. First of all, it is worth finding out the reason for the battery discharge, so as not to encounter this problem in the future. It’s good if the cause of the discharge was a light that was not turned off or another source of consumption, but if the problem is, for example, in the generator or the battery itself, then no amount of recharging will help you.

We also recommend reading the material on the topic: how to extend the life of a car battery. After reading this article, you will also learn about the reasons for battery discharge and signs that the battery will soon fail.

The next most common cause of starter inoperability is damage to the ground wire going to the engine or poor contact. If there is not just one click, but a whole series, this is probably the problem.

And if only one click is heard, then the problem should be looked for in the contacts of the starter, or rather its relay. The starter is powered by a current of approximately 200 amperes, but due to poor contact in any place, the current can reach much lower values. It may be enough to trigger the retractor relay, but this current strength will not be enough to ensure the rotation of the crankshaft.

In some cases, the contacts of the starter relay may burn out, as a result, there is no spark necessary to ensure correct operation of the starter. Actually, a click is not a characteristic sign of serviceability of the starter relay, it only indicates that the relay core is retracted, but the holding winding sometimes cannot fix it.

If multiple clicks occur

Only experienced motorists can determine the presence of a malfunction and its cause by the nature of the clicks that occur when starting the engine. If several clicks appear when starting the starter, then the breakdown should be looked for in:

contact violations;
traction relay malfunction;
poor fit of other contacts.

Why does the starter click but not turn over?

Each component of the engine starting system affects its full operation, therefore, when the first signs of improper operation of the starter appear, you must immediately take appropriate measures (checking all electrical connections, diagnosing the wiring for breakdowns, etc.). As a rule, these measures should be enough to start the engine so that you can get to the nearest service station.

Starter malfunction

Sometimes, when the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn, the car does not start because the starter itself has failed. It is quite possible that the wire that connects the starter winding and its relay has burned out or broken, or that the starter winding has broken.

It is quite possible that a short circuit has occurred in the armature or stator windings, as well as in the brush holder. For example, you can determine a short circuit by looking at the headlights; when you try to start the engine, they dim greatly, and sometimes even go out completely even when the battery is fully charged.

If the car has been used for a long time, the starter brushes may have worn out too much or the starter bushings may have worn out. As a rule, it is impossible to diagnose such problems in the shortest possible time, but if you have enough time, you can find out the cause of the starter failure.

Be sure to watch another video on how the starter works:

If problems arise with starting the engine, you should also not “drive” the starter for too long. The fact is that the starter is essentially a small electric motor, which, however, ensures the rotation of the crankshaft. To do this, it requires a very high current strength, so it is not recommended to operate the starter for a long time within one starting attempt - you run a high risk of damaging it (the contacts may simply burn out). It is recommended to make three short attempts to start the engine, and if they are unsuccessful, proceed to troubleshooting.

Lada Granta is a popular and reliable car of the Russian concern AvtoVAZ, which was developed on the basis of the Lada Kalina model.

This is an inexpensive “people’s” car with front-wheel drive, which has firmly won its niche in the market. Its factory marking is VAZ 2190, serial production began in October 2011.

The car is equipped with front-wheel drive, independent front and semi-independent rear suspension. Available in “standard”, “norm” and “luxury” trim levels.

The “luxury” package includes electric power steering, an ABS system, power windows, air conditioning and a modern audio system.

The disadvantage of this car is flaws in the design, not always high-quality assembly and frequent problems with starting the engine.

The starter clicks but does not crank due to a faulty engine

If, when you try to start the internal combustion engine, you hear a strong click, but the crankshaft does not turn, it is likely that the engine itself is jammed. It must be said that this is one of the most unpleasant things that can happen to a car, but there are many different options here too, and not all of them are very sad. How do we diagnose in this case:

set the gear to neutral, remove the starter;
Using a large flat screwdriver, we try to turn the crankshaft by the teeth of the flywheel in one direction or the other;
look carefully to see if there are any foreign objects or pieces of metal between the teeth and the flywheel housing.

In practice, various defects occur, for example, the aluminum Bendix housing may crack and get between the flywheel and the crankcase. It also happens that some bolt or other metal object flies into the intake manifold, then gets stuck between the cylinder head and the piston. If the bolt gets into the cylinder head, the crankshaft will easily scroll backwards, against rotation, and jam as the crankshaft moves. If a foreign object gets into the cylinder, you cannot start the engine, as there will be a strong knock in the engine, and the piston heads and combustion chambers may be damaged!

A bad option for engine jamming is turning the crankshaft liners; here, when you try to turn it manually, the shaft moves tightly, springs back, but still turns with difficulty. Melting of the liners always leads to a major overhaul of the internal combustion engine; there is no other way out; in the worst case, the cylinder block may be punctured.

Problems with the immobilizer (APS)

Often the Lada Granta does not start due to improper operation of the APS. If it is activated, the key is read and the engine starts. The immobilizer (APS) identifies the “native” key by reading the code from it.

If it is incorrect, then the APS blocks the operation of all vehicle systems. Here it is necessary to immediately clarify that APS is not activated upon sale in all trim levels. Lada Granta sedan is equipped with an anti-theft alarm in models 023, 024 and 050.

Lada Granta liftback in the 711, 713, 750 and 751 configurations. Many car dealers cheat when selling and say that the immobilizer cannot be activated. But by law they must do this at the request of the car owner.

If the key is not registered, the indicator lights up continuously for about 20 seconds. without blinking, and then goes out. During training, blinking occurs at a frequency of 5 Hz, at the end of training at a frequency of 10 Hz. When problems arise in the system, a sound alert is added to the light indication; it appears at the 10th and 20th second.

Decoding signals:

1 signal + flashing indicator – the code from the key cannot be read, possible reasons:

problems in the communication coil circuit. In this case, you need to check the resistance and inspect the circuit;
There is no transponder in the key. To eliminate the problem in the training key, you should check the presence of the transponder and its markings; if it is missing, then use a “clean” key and the CSUD to retrain the entire system;
The transponder (located in the red key, you need to remove the red head) may be broken. In this case, for a training key, you need to retrain the system with a clean key, and for a working key with a remote control, you need to replace the remote control with a new one and train the system again;

2 beeps + flashing indicator – the relationship between the APS and the ICS is broken, possible malfunctions:

There was a communication failure on the w line. In this case, it is necessary to eliminate violations in the chain between the APS and the ICS;
violation in the APS and KSUD chain. It is necessary to replace them one by one to identify where the malfunction occurred;
there is no voltage on the APS and KSUD power supply. In this case, you need to check and restore the voltage.

3 beeps + intermittent indication - “foreign” key or APS. In this case, it is necessary to carry out training using a “clean” key and a “clean” KSUD. For APS, you need to configure the system using a training key native to the ICS.

4 signals + flashing indicator – the controller does not provide confirmation to start the engine. This suggests that the KSUD has already been trained with another system; it needs to be changed to a clean one and retrained.

To find out exactly the cause, it is necessary to make a diagnosis. If the controller is broken, it must be replaced and re-learned.

If there is an APS, then you need to replace it and train it along with all the working keys, since structurally in the Lada Granta the APS is located in the instrument cluster.

Simple and fast

The easiest way to deal with the power source is the battery. Sometimes it tends to run out of charge, and if it started to run out recently, you might not have noticed it yet. If you have a voltmeter tester, checking is a matter of seconds. If it is not there, you can use the old-fashioned method (although it is not very approved by firefighters): remove the wires from the terminals and rub them against each other.

There is a spark (which is why the firefighters are protesting) - the battery is working. If you don’t want to violate safety rules, just listen to the car’s reaction: a slight jolt at the first stage directly indicates a low battery.

The second reason, equally common and easy to eliminate, is oxidation of the terminals or their contamination. Clean them with a wire brush (probably lying in the trunk) - and the car will start.

The next thing to check is the fuses

. They often burn out, and most more or less modern cars have an ignition control. The circuit is removed from the glove compartment and it becomes clear which one needs to be checked; if it burns out, replace it, and that’s the end of it.

The starter does not turn

If you are sure that the problem is not in the APS, then most likely the starter is not working. The Lada Granta is equipped with a cable-driven gearbox and the starter often acts up, especially with a new gearbox.

It is very easy to find out that the starter is not turning: when you turn the ignition key, you do not hear the specific sound of its operation.

Sometimes a car with a robot does not turn the starter, this is due to a weak battery, we recommend charging it and trying again, although sometimes it helps to simply remove and put on the terminals.

The main causes of starter failure are the battery, the starter itself, or problems in the switching circuit.

The main causes and troubleshooting of the starter:

The battery is low or damaged. It is not difficult to check its condition: you will immediately notice this by the fact that the light bulbs and panel sensors do not light up, and when you start the engine, you hear a specific crackling noise under the hood. But if they light up normally, then to be sure, you need to turn on the headlights to high beam and evaluate their brightness; if the light is dim, then the battery is not completely discharged, but its power is not enough to start the starter. To resolve the problem, you need to charge or replace the battery.
Problems with battery terminals, faulty wiring, insufficient contact with ground. The terminals may be loose, poorly seated, or oxidized. To fix this problem, you need to clean it, thoroughly coat it with machine Vaseline and tighten the bolt on the starter and the ground on the thermostat stud. Using a multi-meter you need to check the ground for breakdowns. To do this, you need to switch it to voltmeter mode and connect one wire to the starter “ground” on the thermostat pin, and the other to the engine; there should be no voltage.
Read also: Laser headlights: operating principle and advantages and disadvantages
If everything is normal in the circuit, you need to remove the starter itself and look at the operation of the traction relay. If you turn the key to the second position, the relay does not work and you cannot hear a click. This can be checked by applying voltage to the contact of the traction relay. The relay, wiring or ignition switch needs to be replaced. If there is current, but the starter still does not turn, then the problem is in itself.
Faults in the starter itself. It is necessary to inspect, there may be damage to the flywheel teeth or starter gear, repair or replace if necessary.
The commutator on the starter was burnt, the brushes were severely worn, and there was a break in the armature winding. How to determine this? The armature does not rotate at all or too slowly. Inspect the traction relay and supply current from the battery to the starter contact directly. To fix the problem, it is necessary to repair or replace the armature or the starter itself.
Poor performance and clutch slipping. This happens when the starter spins but the flywheel does not. In this case, change the clutch or the starter itself.

If the starter turns, but the car does not start, you need to look further.

Emergency engine starting methods

When the starter does not click or make any sounds at all, the engine can be started if it is closed “directly”. This is not the best solution, but in cases where you need to go urgently and there is no other option, you can use it.

Let's consider the situation of how to start the engine directly using the example of a VAZ-2110 car. So, the sequence of actions will be as follows:

engage neutral gear and set the car to the handbrake;
turn on the ignition by turning the key in the lock and open the hood, since we will carry out further actions in the engine compartment;
remove the air filter from its seat and move it to the side in order to get to the starter contacts;
disconnect the chip going to the contact group;
use a metal object (for example, a screwdriver with a wide flat blade or a piece of wire) to short-circuit the starter terminals;
as a result of this, provided that the other components listed above are in good working order and the battery is charged, the car will start.

After this, install the chip and air filter back. An interesting fact is that in most cases the engine will continue to be started using the ignition key. However, you should remember that the breakdown still remains, so you need to look for it yourself or go to a car service center for help in order to fix it.

Emergency engine start

We offer you another method that will be useful to you if you need to start the engine in an emergency. It is only suitable for front wheel drive passenger cars with manual transmission! The algorithm of actions is as follows:

it is necessary to jack up the car by hanging any of the front wheels;
turn the hung wheel outwards all the way (if the left wheel - then to the left, if the right wheel - then to the right);
wrap a tow rope or strong rope around the surface of the tire 3-4 times, leaving 1-2 meters free;
engage THIRD gear;
turn the key in the ignition;
pull strongly on the end of the cable, trying to spin the wheel (it is better to do this not in place, but with a slight run-up);
when the car starts, first of all set the gear to neutral (you can do this without pressing the clutch pedal) and wait until the wheel stops completely ;
lower the hanging wheel to the ground.

The described method of spinning the wheel of front-wheel drive cars is reminiscent of the method of starting a crooked starter (using the crank) used in old rear-wheel drive cars (for example, VAZ “classic”). If in the latter case the starter is spun using a handle, then in front-wheel drive cars it is spun from the axle shaft on which the raised wheel is located.

Conclusion

The starter is a simple but extremely important mechanism in a car. Therefore, its failure is critical , as it does not allow the engine to start. In most cases, problems are related to the car's electrical wiring, poor contacts, broken wires, and so on. Therefore, if the starter does not turn over and does not start the engine, the first thing we recommend is that you inspect the contacts (main ground, relay contacts, ignition switch, etc.).

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Computer malfunction

The unit itself is very reliable and rarely fails without external intervention. But water can get on it, and this is the main reason for malfunction.

There are significant flaws in the body design; the drainage holes near the filter are often clogged with dirt and water gets into the block through them.

To do this, you need to check and clean the drainage more often. Also, water can flood the ECU after installing the alarm, when the plugs are not installed tightly or they are completely forgotten to be installed.

You can try to dry the block, but if this does not help, you will have to replace it. This problem can be partially solved by wrapping the block with film or filling it with sealant, but then this is fraught with the appearance of condensation inside the ECU.

It is not difficult to remove the ECU; it is located opposite the front passenger seat, under the glove compartment, behind the soundproofing upholstery, almost on the floor, near the passenger’s feet.

ECU removal sequence:

Disconnect the on-board network.
Remove the screw that secures the upholstery.
Carefully peel back the upholstery and sound insulation layer.
Unscrew the three nuts securing the ECU.
Carefully move the unit to the side and remove the two wire clamps one by one.

After unscrewing the computer, you need to disassemble it and assess the extent of the damage. We remove the board from the case and carefully inspect it. If it is partially burnt out and blackened, then nothing can be done about it; it needs to be replaced.

But if the board has no visible damage or only the output key has burned out, then in this case the key must be replaced, and the board must be washed and dried. First, you need to wipe it with a clean rag, then rinse it with WD-40 and blow it out with a compressor.

After this, rinse with alcohol several times and blow again. Now the most crucial moment is drying. Using a hair dryer set for a maximum of 1.5 hours, we blow through the board on both sides.

Two ignition keys on a Lada Granta car

The first is suitable for everyday use and can be supplemented with a remote control device. This key removes the engine lock. This means it deactivates the immobilizer of the Lada Grant.

The second one is necessary for training the Lada Grant immobilizer. Where is the immobilizer located? Usually marked with a red mark. It is suitable not only for starting the internal combustion engine and making changes to the engine blocker settings, but is also designed to control the blocking of all doors without exception. This key should be used only in extreme cases and kept in a safe place. If the training key is lost, the dealer will not service the anti-theft system under warranty.

Engine and spark plugs

Often candles simply flood, especially in winter. This could be due to a weak battery spark, wiring problems, or unsuitable spark plugs.

The most primitive way to dry them is to press on the gas and crank the engine for 10 seconds using the starter.

But in winter this rarely helps, and the candles need to be dried. To do this, they need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned of dirt. This can be done with a toothbrush. In this case, you need to leave the same gap of 0.7-1 mm .

Mechanical problems

Rarely on cars with high mileage is it possible for the Bendix to simply stick into the crown tooth. Initially, both the flywheel ring gear and the Bendix teeth have lead-in chamfers, allowing the gears to mesh even if the Bendix tooth does not precisely fit into the gap between the flywheel teeth. Wear over time leads to dulling of the lead-in chamfers, and a situation is possible when a Bendix tooth rests against a flywheel tooth, preventing the retractor relay core from reaching the end of the stroke and closing the power contacts.

You can “revive” the car simply: either short-circuit the terminals on the solenoid relay so that the rotor turns to a different position, or, if there is no convenient access to the starter, turn the crankshaft itself by the generator or power steering pulley using a socket and ratchet. But this is an “emergency” method - you should not postpone repairs, since similar problems will continue in the future.

Fuel system

It happens that the tank simply runs out of gas, do not forget to monitor its level. You also need to pay attention to its quality. Due to low-quality gasoline, spark plugs often flood, the filter becomes dirty, and moisture forms.

If you have filled in with low-quality fuel, then in this case you need to remove the gas tank and change the coarse and fine filters, you can try to blow out the fuel pipes.

If the injectors are dirty, they can be cleaned using any available method. When there is a lot of water in gasoline, you can add a little alcohol to the tank.

But if there are a lot of impurities and dirt, then only strong cleaning will help. You see that the starter is spinning, but the engine refuses to work and you can’t hear the fuel pump pumping. It may fail, there is no tightness in the power system or the pressure regulator is malfunctioning.

The first thing you need to do is check the pressure in the rail, the normal value is 3.5-4 atmospheres .

Then you need to remove the hatch and measure the voltage in the connector; the light bulb can be inserted into the two terminals in the middle and cranked with the starter. It should light up and if the voltage reaches, but there is no pressure, you can try to hit it. The brushes could simply be stuck. If they are normal, then the coarse mesh may be clogged, it needs to be cleaned or replaced; in winter it may freeze up.

If electricity is not supplied, you need to check fuse F21 and relay k12. The relays (power coils) need to be removed, tapped on them a little, or simply warmed thoroughly in the palms of your hands.

Probable Causes

When the starter does not turn when trying to activate the engine, this often indicates problems with the battery. Insufficient charge of the latter interferes with the functioning of the device in question, because it consumes a lot of energy.

Also, the Lada does not start due to damage to the starter electrical circuit or individual elements included in it. Inspect all wires leading to the device. Also check the fuse and relay if not already done.

The next obvious problem: oxidation of the battery terminals. Over time, a film of high resistance forms on them, which prevents the supply of current of the required strength. Clean them with fine sandpaper and tighten them with a wrench so that the wires do not dangle.

The ignition switch often prevents the Grant from starting. It is easy to make sure that it is faulty - just short-circuit the wiring leading to it. After this, the power plant should start.

When none of the above helped, and the Grant still does not start, it is permissible to assume the worst - a malfunction of the starter itself. Here, in particular, the following may fail:

It is difficult to perform diagnostics in the field, because the starter will have to be dismantled and disassembled. Failed elements are not repaired, but replaced with serviceable ones. All that can be done on the spot is to inspect the wires going to the device, remove them and clean them. Before doing this, do not forget to disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

As practice shows, the most common reason why the engine refuses to start and the starter does not turn is a weak battery charge, poor contact in the terminals or a breakdown of the Lada ignition switch. Other malfunctions occur much less frequently. Next we will tell you how to check.

Timing belt, valves and damper

The gas distribution mechanism often breaks. The belt breaks only when the car is moving. Unfortunately, no one is immune from rupture, and to prevent this from happening to you, you need to pay attention to its rubbing more often and change it in time.

Sometimes the valves come into contact with the pistons and they bend. To solve this problem, you can install pistons with special grooves. Sometimes the engine does not start due to the damper being turned several teeth, in which case the sensor makes a mistake and shows the wrong phase.

To check the damper, you need to unscrew it and check that its marks match the marks on the timing belt cover. If the marks do not match, you need to turn the pulley until they match.

Battery check

In order to find out whether there is enough charge in the battery, you just need to remove the minus terminal and check what voltage is obtained on it. It must be at least 9 V. Otherwise, the problem lies precisely in the low charge. The battery needs to be charged.

Next, if there is sufficient charge in the battery, you need to check whether the contacts connected to the battery are damaged. If everything is in order with the terminal contacts, then the problem is something else. Special attention should be paid to the negative contact going from the battery to the case. It is difficult to monitor him because he has a very unstable signal. To check, you will have to completely remove it, clean the terminals and then install it back.

Crankshaft sensor

If the starter turns normally, the fuel pump works, the spark plugs and the “brains” are normal, you need to check the sensor. You need to look at the tachometer; if there is a failure, the revolutions are not visible.

You need to remove it and connect it to a multi-meter. You need to quickly wave a screwdriver in front of the sensor.

If there are no power surges, then it has “died” and needs to be replaced.

You can check it by testing the resistance; it should be approximately 750 Ohms.

If jumps are still observed and the resistance is normal, you need to look carefully to see if contamination has appeared and, if necessary, cleaning should be done.

VAZ components, as well as imported analogues

At first, KZATE starters were supplied to the VAZ plant. And after 2011, Valeo became the main supplier. Therefore, the list of components looks like this:

21120-3708010-00 (KATEK, KZATE, ZiT) - there is one analogue, Fenox ST32101C3;
21901-3708010-00 (VALEO) – also known as VALEO TS12E901;
21902-3708010-00 (VALEO) – also known as VALEO TS12E902.

It was not possible to find any other imported analogues.

None of the three starters are interchangeable with the other. The last two differ in the number of teeth (11 and 9, respectively), but the VALEO and KZATE starters are not compatible in terms of fastening.

Ignition coils

Custom ignition coil

The Lada Granda has two types of ignition coils: individual and four-terminal, they are controlled by the engine controller.

One of the signs of poor coil performance is poor idling, a drop in power and high gasoline consumption. The car starts poorly or stalls.

If the coils are partially broken, then paired misfires and ignition in the cylinders often occur. To remove the coil, you need to reset the terminals from the AMB and remove the leads from the controller. Then disconnect all high voltage wiring.

After this, the coil must be disconnected from the bracket by unscrewing the mounting screws. If you plan to replace the coil, make a note of its markings.

There are several ways to test the coil for faults:

Testing a short to ground. To do this, using an ohmmeter, you need to connect the wire from the coil to the first end of the ohmmeter, and the body to the second. It should show an infinite value, if you see a specific value then there is a leak.
We check the primary winding for a break. To do this, you need to connect the ends of the device to the contacts; if the device shows an infinite value, then one of the coils is broken and needs to be replaced with a new one.
We check the secondary winding (for a 4-lead coil). To do this, first test the winding on the 1st and 4th cylinders using an ohmmeter. If it shows an infinite value, then the coil is working. Repeat these steps with the winding on the 2nd and 3rd cylinder.
Checking high voltage wiring. The wires are checked one by one. To do this, connect an ohmmeter to the wire, measuring the resistance with a maximum value of 20 kOhm. The normal value is approximately 3 to 8 kΩ. If it shows infinity, then the wire must be replaced. It is advisable to carry out such a check annually.

After installing the coils in their place, you must strictly observe their markings; the cylinder number must match the number on the wire.

If the Lada Granda started and immediately stalled. The most common reasons:

Damage to the ignition coil connections. Needs to be repaired or replaced with new ones.
Low fuel pressure.
Poor sealing in parts of the catalytic manifold or receiver.
Poor performance of the engine control system.

The Lada Granda has many design flaws, but if you know all the weak points of this car, then finding the cause of the breakdown will not be difficult. Carefully monitor your car, undergo regular maintenance, replace parts in a timely manner, and the Lada Granda will serve you for many years.

More severe cases

It’s a little sadder if the ignition switch itself is covered. After the initial check and cleaning, the key is inserted and turned to the first position. At the same time, the warning lights and instruments on the dashboard should light up. If there are no signs of life, electrical enthusiasts can ring this unit themselves, or even replace it without outside help. The rest are looking for someone to attach the cable to and go to the service station: they may have to disassemble the half-torpedo in search of the cause (which could be any frayed wiring. Then at least you won’t have to change the lock).

Another component available for checking is the starter itself. To make sure everything is fine with it (or vice versa), you will need an assistant and, again, a tester. One person turns the key, the second holds the wire of the device on the wire that supplies voltage to the starter. The main thing here is to position yourself so that the rotating part does not catch the controller if the starter is normal. If there is voltage, but the starter does not respond to it, it will have to be repaired.

If the starter spins but there is no feedback, a completely different story begins:

If you have checked all this, found and corrected some shortcomings, and the car still does not respond to the ignition key, you will have to accept the inevitable and drag it to a car service in tow. To do this, you can use a neighbor in the garage or just an acquaintance. Or you can use a tow truck, but this will cost a certain – and considerable – amount. Then a professional electrician at the nearest service center should look for the reason for the stubbornness of your car - an amateur has very little chance of this.

The immobilizer of the Lada Grant and any other car is a special anti-theft device that does not allow the engine to start. Motorists use it very rarely, even if the Lada Granta immobilizer is included, while others simply do not know about the existence of such a device. But safety cannot be neglected, and that is why all owners of Lada Granta, without exception, should be sure to familiarize themselves with the design and operating principle of this module.

The moment the driver inserts the ignition key, the Lada Granta immobilizer is identified using a code. If there is a match, there are no obstacles to starting the engine and you can start moving. Otherwise, the car will be locked until the correct code is received. There is one important disadvantage of using this device - if the Lada Granta immobilizer breaks down, then it will be possible to start the car only after repairing or replacing the module. In such a situation, the old code is deleted from the controller and new code is written. So, if the immobilizer is blinking, you should think about it and pay attention to it.

At the car dealership, the Lada Granta immobilizer is activated during the pre-sale preparation procedure under the supervision of the future owner. If the buyer refuses to use this function, then this is entered into the service documents, where it is certified by the seal of the car dealership and the signature of the buyer.

Other reasons why the Lada Granta does not start

There are many possible breakdowns. To begin with, it’s a good idea to check the battery charge level, since you won’t be able to start without a battery. Also, make sure that the terminals on the battery are tight and have not oxidized. If the car is already three years old, then special attention should be paid to the issues of terminal oxidation.

Keep in mind that after prolonged cold weather, the charge level may drop to one third of its original volume. If necessary, the car can be covered with a special cover, which will save the accumulated heat for a long time.

Malfunctions may also affect the fuel system. Similar reasons are typical for situations when the car starts, but immediately after that it stalls. If so, then most likely the problem is a burnt out fuel pump.

And, of course, do not forget that the spark plugs may simply deteriorate. This happens after prolonged operation of the power unit at high speeds. To prevent them from burning out, you need to periodically clean their contacts, as well as maintain the normal operating parameters of the car.

Among other things, it would be a good idea to inspect the air filter. Before doing this, the air filter must be removed from the car. If it is too clogged, soot can accumulate in the cylinders, which will lead to certain problems in the operation of the machine.

A detailed algorithm for reconfiguring the immobilizer

First of all, you need to close all the interior doors and insert the so-called training “red” key and activate the engine ignition. If the indicator glows steadily, it means that the training procedure should be carried out. Next, you need to turn off the ignition and wait until the immobilizer flashes. Remove the “red” key and immediately insert the regular one, turn on the ignition as usual. At the same time, you will first hear three short beeps in a row, and after a short period of time a couple more. Then turn off the ignition again and reinsert the first training key - three short beeps must sound in the same way and after the same two short beeps. Turn off the ignition and do not remove the learning key. This will be followed by one short signal, and the indicator will quickly and quickly flash. Turn the ignition on and off again, after which 3 beeps will sound and the indicator will turn off completely. Now you can remove the training first “red” key and use the usual one to test start the engine. This is how the immobilizer for Lada Granta works.