Hi all! Clutch failure does not bode well for the car and its owner. The sooner signs of problems can be detected, the better. A fairly common question on this topic is why the clutch slips or slips. Different terminology is used, but the essence remains the same.
It is important to understand that modern cars use dry and wet, also known as oil, clutches. In the first case, we are talking about simple friction, while in the second, the procedure is carried out in a special oil, which additionally cools the clutch discs and other elements. Most often we encounter the dry type. Wet is used on cars with dual clutch and robotic gearboxes. It is difficult to adjust and repair a wet clutch with your own hands. This requires the help of specialists.
The most common sign of unit malfunction is slipping. Moreover, for some it happens constantly, while for others it sometimes stalls, sometimes not. This can happen both hot and cold, that is, before and after the unit warms up.
How the problem manifests itself
Most often, the cause of clutch slipping is normal mechanical wear of the assembly elements. This allows you to diagnose an impending problem even before serious consequences appear. This is done by simply observing changes in the behavior of the machine.
If you notice one of the following signs on your Niva, passenger car or scooter, be sure to diagnose the clutch or contact a service center.
- Extraneous sounds occur during system operation. They appear in the form of knocking noises when the pedal is depressed or released;
- If the noise disappears when the clutch pedal is depressed, the problem is most likely in the release bearing;
- There are signs of vibration on the pedal;
- In this case, the pedal may sink too much or be pressed too hard;
- A characteristic burning smell emanates from the clutch. The clutch usually burns if the driver operates it incorrectly.
The manufacturer provides each vehicle with instructions that indicate all recommendations for routine maintenance and replacement of clutch assembly elements. Most often, the driven disk needs to be replaced.
Before you try to adjust the system yourself, be sure to familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of the clutch. In our previous article we discussed this issue.
Why does the clutch slip only under certain conditions?
The reasons why the clutch slips at high speeds, when accelerating or after the car has been idle, are different. The most common of them:
Characteristic signs of clutch wear
- incorrect installation or configuration;
- ambient temperature;
- aggressive driving style;
- heavy load (for example, trailer);
- natural wear and tear of parts.
If disc slipping occurs only in certain conditions, for example, when it’s cold, the clutch slips in 3rd and 4th gear, or if you change the clutch and it slips, then identifying a specific malfunction should consider the options that will be discussed below. All the main symptoms and causes of transmission slipping are presented in the table.
| Problem | Cause | What to do |
| Clutch slips when cold or in winter | A cold clutch disc is already hot. When heated, bodies tend to expand, so the heated disk begins to press harder against the also heated basket and flywheel. | If the clutch slips when cold, you can drive it, but you shouldn’t put off repairs too much, as this is usually a sign of large deterioration of the friction surfaces. |
| Water (snow) got into the checkpoint bell. | if the clutch slips in the cold due to water getting in, you just need to let it warm up and dry | |
| Clutch slips when hot | When heated, the friction force decreases, so the hot clutch slips and cannot transmit high torque from the engine to the gearbox. | If the clutch slips at speed after warming up, it must be changed, since due to constant heating the defect will quickly progress. in the case of a “wet” clutch with an oil bath (usually used on DSG “robots” and the like), you first need to check the amount of lubricant; perhaps it’s just a lack of oil. |
| clutch slips after crossing a ford or large puddles | if after fording, driving through mud and puddles or in heavy rain the clutch slips, the friction discs have become wet/contaminated | you need to disassemble and clean the clutch parts. To prevent contamination, do not depress the clutch while in water or mud. |
| Clutch slips after repair | the details didn't fit in | check the adjustment, break in the clutch |
| incorrect drive adjustment | adjust the clutch release mechanism | |
| incorrect assembly | inspect the clutch for correct assembly, check with the instructions, assemble correctly | |
| incompatibility of components or wear of old parts | if the clutch slips after replacing its individual parts (for example, the disc is new, but the basket is old), check whether the parts fit together and whether the old parts are overused | |
| New clutch slips | incorrect adjustment (basket pinched) | check the adjustment, loosen the basket pressure |
| incorrect assembly | check the correctness of assembly, assemble correctly | |
| incompatible parts selected | check new and old parts, their articles, if identified |
If there is clutch slipping caused by improper adjustment or lack of oil (for wet-type systems), it is important to immediately correct this problem. Otherwise, the disks will constantly overheat, wear out quickly and repairs will be much more expensive!
Possible consequences
A slipping clutch is a fairly common occurrence. This is especially true for domestic cars, motorcycles and cars with high mileage.
Practice and experience clearly show that slipping is usually associated with wear and damage to elements. This can happen on any car or other vehicle. Judging by the requests of fans of self-repair, most often the problem of a slipping clutch is solved on the following vehicles:
- VAZ 2107;
- VAZ 2114;
- IZ Planet;
- UAZ Bukhanka;
- Jupiter;
- KAMAZ;
- Minsk;
- VAZ 2110;
- Renault Logan;
- Kia Rio;
- Lada Priora;
- GAZelle, etc.
Despite the obvious cause of such problems, many car owners stubbornly continue to ignore all recommendations for maintenance and timely repair of the unit.
If you feel characteristic signs of problems, you should take prompt action.
When buying a used car or getting behind the wheel for the first time, some people think that they are simply driving the vehicle incorrectly, are not yet fluent in manual shifting techniques and are making some mistakes. In reality, it may turn out that the clutch is failing.
It is important to pay attention to the characteristic signs. Namely:
Causes of clutch slipping
Clutch wear occurs directly at the moments of closing and opening the discs, when there is their mutual slipping, that is, it is always associated with starting off and changing gears.
If the car continuously moves along a country road without interference, populated areas and traffic lights, then the clutch will turn from a consumable into an eternal unit that will last longer than the engine or car body.
On topic: How to bleed a car’s clutch yourself
Slipping can be considered normal when it stops when the pedal or rod is completely released, and also a sign of complete wear if the discs continue to slip when engine torque increases, despite the complete removal of force from the release bearing.
Abuse of incomplete squeezing
In addition to its main function, that is, breaking the connection between the engine flywheel and the gearbox input shaft, the clutch is capable of transforming the gear ratio within certain limits.
For example, when starting off, the wheels, and therefore the input shaft of the box, are motionless. It is impossible to apply engine torque to them without slipping, since an internal combustion engine is not an electric motor, and its torque at zero speed is also zero.
The crankshaft must be untwisted until an acceptable torque value is obtained, it must be applied to the clutch driven disc, after which the clutch will slip until a certain speed is reached.
This mode is completely normal, but it can be abused, that is, it can unreasonably prolong the slipping time:
- when trying to start as smoothly as possible and lacking experience;
- when starting from second or higher gear instead of the intended first;
- compensating for the lack of traction capabilities of the car by incomplete engagement of the clutch;
- just keeping your foot on the pedal without thinking about the consequences.
In this case, the clutch overheats, wears out quickly and begins to slip during normal driving, especially in higher gears, when the torque on it is maximum.
Contamination of friction discs
Dirt on the driven disk linings can appear for various reasons:
- burning of the linings after a long slip;
- driving with deep immersion in water and mud;
- ingress of lubricant during replacement of parts due to negligence;
- leaking engine and gearbox seals.
The clutch is rarely made with a large margin of force of the working spring, so the slightest contamination of the discs and flywheel, which leads to a drop in the coefficient of friction, will certainly lead to a slippage when trying to transmit the maximum engine torque.
Severe wear on the linings
The driven disc linings are made of a special material that has a high coefficient of friction against steel, but is also quite soft.
It wears out due to slipping, the thickness of the disk decreases, and the working stroke of the pressure disk is no longer enough for reliable pressure. As a result, slipping occurs, causing the linings to wear out even faster.
Weakening the pressure plate spring
The drive disc in the clutch is made in the form of a housing with a central diaphragm spring. The preload of this leaf spring is created during the installation process, when the housing (basket) is tightened around the circumference with screws to the flywheel.
You need to know this: How the release bearing works, malfunctions and methods of checking
Over time, this force weakens due to metal fatigue and temperature loads. The discs are pressed with reduced force, and the coupling can no longer transmit the calculated torque without slipping.
Flywheel surface wear
The flywheel has a groove for the driven disk, which works together with the drive disk, clamping the linings. If the car has a significant total mileage, during which the clutch has been changed several times, then wear accumulates on the flywheel.
Its thickness decreases, signs of uneven wear, depressions and protrusions appear. All this reduces the clamping force and efficiency of the clutch, leading to slippage.
Incorrect adjustment
The design of the clutch drive can be different, including requiring periodic adjustments. Neglect of the regulations can lead to constant loading of the release bearing, which reduces the force applied to the discs.
The result is still the same - slipping and accelerated wear.
Car fuel consumption: table
- the car loses dynamics;
- cravings drop;
- the car is difficult to climb;
- speed is gained slowly;
- the pedal vibrates;
- there is a smell of burning in the cabin;
- the pedal is too tight;
- the pedal fails;
- gear shifts with a crunch;
- Extraneous uncharacteristic sounds appear when switching.
If you do not pay attention to this in time, the engine flywheel is highly likely to be damaged, not only the coupling unit, but also the gearbox will suffer. The problem mainly affects the gearbox input shaft.
Operating principle of the clutch mechanism:
The car engine transfers its energy to the heavy flywheel. When controlling the accelerator, you can reduce or increase the speed. And in order for the car to move, such movement must be transferred to a “mechanical” gearbox - in our case, to the car’s gearbox. To prevent the car from stalling, the rotation must be transmitted as smoothly as possible. Similar requirements apply to stopping a vehicle. The clutch is precisely that auxiliary element without which this would be impossible to achieve.
The operation of the clutch is not difficult to explain!
The functioning of the car clutch mechanism.
Components of the clutch mechanism.
Independent and quick diagnostics
If this is just the beginning of the emergence and development of a problem associated with clutch slipping, inexperienced drivers may not notice it.
There is a fairly simple diagnostic method that is almost error-free. You can do it yourself after replacing the clutch, when adjustments have been made, or simply when you suspect that the system is not working correctly.
How to check whether the clutch is slipping or not?
To confirm or deny slippage, do the following:
- With the engine running, pull the brake lever all the way.
- Shift into gear, then gently press the gas pedal and slowly release the clutch.
The engine should stall, this will mean that everything is in order, but if not and the engine is still running, your clutch is slipping. In this case, check how easily the clutch pedal moves; if its movement is limited, then try adjusting it and check if the problem has disappeared.
- If the clutch slips due to worn clutches, you need to find out how much wear there is.
- If you are lucky and it is small, slipping can be eliminated by adjusting the pedal free play.
- If the wear of the friction linings is too great (when the distance between the rivets and the working elements is more than 0.2 mm), the driven disk must be replaced along with the linings.
How to make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands
- place the machine on a level surface;
- start the engine;
- turn on the handbrake;
- go into first gear;
- start trying to move away;
- gradually press on the gas;
- release the clutch at the same time;
- watch the result.
If the engine stalls during such manipulations, this is good. That is, the clutch does not slip. But when the engine does not stall, the car begins to move, the unit actually slips.
Appropriate measures should be taken immediately to correct the problem.
Which clutch is better to buy?
The undisputed market leader in the sale of clutch components is VALEO. Every second European-assembled car is equipped with products from this brand. If the clutch slips and the problem can only be solved by replacing the entire mechanism or its individual elements, then there is no better option in terms of price-quality ratio.
The popularity of the VALEO brand among car enthusiasts is deserved for the following reasons:
- The metal parts of the clutch do not corrode and have a very long service life.
- Huge assortment. Among VALEO products there is sure to be something that will suit any popular car model.
- The manufacturer has provided a significant reserve of torque transmitted by the clutch disc (up to 30%). This allows it to be installed on cars with forced-type power units.
- Thanks to the soft squeezing, driving comfort is ensured.
- Each clutch kit comes with convenient step-by-step installation instructions.
- The product has a warranty period of 1 year.
VALEO products (as well as other automotive parts and components at reasonable prices) can always be purchased with great convenience at the IXORA store. Polite and competent managers will help you decide on the selection process and answer any questions you may have.
| Manufacturer | Detail number | Part name | Applicability* |
| Valeo | 826317 | CLUTCH KIT AUDI, SKODA, VOLKSWAGEN | AUDI A1 (8X1), A3 (8L1), TT (8N3), TT Roadster (8N9), SKODA Fabia II (5J5), Fabia II (5J2), Octavia (1U2), Octavia (1U5), Praktik (5J), Roomster (5J), VOLKSWAGEN Bora (1J2), Bora (1J6), Golf Cabriolet III (1E7), Golf Cabriolet IV (1E7), Golf III (1H1), Golf IV (1J1), Golf Variant III (1H5), Golf Variant IV (1J5), Passat Variant IV (3A5), Passat sedan IV (3A2), Polo Classic III (6V2), Polo Variant (6V5), Polo IV (9N1, 9N3), Polo V (6R1), Vento (1H2 ) |
| Valeo | 826551 | VOLKSWAGEN CLUTCH KIT | VOLKSWAGEN Lupo (6X1, 6E1),Polo (6N1), Polo III (6N1), Polo III (6N2) |
| Valeo | 835000 | FORD CLUTCH KIT | FORD Transit VI (FM_ _, FN_ _), Transit VI (FD_ _, FB_ _, FS_ _, FZ_ _, FC_ _), Transit VI (FA_ _) |
| Valeo | 835001 | CLUTCH KIT CITROEN, FIAT, PEUGEOT | CITROEN C3 (FC_), C5 Break (DE_), C5 (DC_), C8 (EA_, EB_), Evasion (22, U6), Jumpy (U6U), Jumpy (BU_, BV_, BW_, BX), Jumpy (BS_ , BT_, BY_, BZ_), FIAT Scudo Combinato (220P), Scudo (220L),Ulysse (220), Ulysse II (179AX), PEUGEOT 406 Break (8E/F), 406 (8B), 607 (9D, 9U ), 806 (221), 807, Expert (224), Expert (223), Expert (222) |
| Valeo | 835002 | RENAULT CLUTCH KIT | RENAULT Espace III (JE0_), Laguna Grandtour (K56_), Laguna (B56_, 556_), Safrane II (B54_) |
| Valeo | 835003 | VOLKSWAGEN CLUTCH KIT | VOLKSWAGEN Transporter IV (7DL,7DE,70L,70E,70M,7DM), Transporter bus /Multivan IV (70B,70J,7DB,7DC,70K,7DJ,7DK,70C), Transporter IV (7DH,7DA,70H,70A ,70M,7DM) |
| Valeo | 835004 | BMW CLUTCH KIT | BMW 3 Compact III (E36), 3 Convertible III (E36), 3 Coupe III (E36), 3 Sedan II (E30), 3 Sedan III (E36), 3 Estate II (E30), 3 Estate III (E36), 5 sedan II (E28), 5 sedan III (E34), 5 sedan IV (E39), 5 estate III (E34), 5 estate IV (E39) |
| Valeo | 835005 | CLUTCH KIT AUDI, VOLKSWAGEN | AUDI A4 (8D2, B5), A4 Avant (8D5, B5), A6 (4A, C4), A6 Avant (4A, C4), A6 Avant II (4B, C5), A6 II (4B, C5), Cabriolet ( 8G7, B4), VOLKSWAGEN Passat Variant V (3B5), Passat sedan V (3B2) |
| Valeo | 835006 | CLUTCH KIT FORD, SEAT, VOLKSWAGEN | FORD Galaxy (WGR), SEAT Alhambra (7V8, 7V9), VOLKSWAGEN Sharan (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) |
| Valeo | 835007 | PEUGEOT CLUTCH KIT | PEUGEOT 307 Break (3E), 307 SW (3H), 307 hatchback (3A/C) |
| Valeo | 835008 | CLUTCH KIT CITROEN, FIAT, PEUGEOT | CITROEN C5 Break (DE_), C5 hatchback (DC_), C8 (EA_, EB_), FIAT Ulysse II (179AX), PEUGEOT 406 Break (8E/F), 406 coupe (8C), 406 sedan (8B), 607 ( 9D, 9U) |
| Valeo | 835010 | CLUTCH KIT SKODA, VOLKSWAGEN | SKODA Octavia station wagon (1U5), VOLKSWAGEN Bora sedan (1J2), Bora station wagon (1J6), Golf IV (1J1), Golf Variant IV (1J5) |
| Valeo | 835011 | RENAULT CLUTCH KIT | RENAULT Espace IV (JK0/1_), Laguna Grandtour II (KG0/1_), Laguna hatchback II (BG0/1_) |
| Valeo | 835012 | CLUTCH KIT AUDI, SKODA, VOLKSWAGEN | AUDI A4 (8D2, B5), A4 Avant (8D5, B5), A4 Avant II (8E5, B6), A4 II (8E2, B6), A6 Avant II (4B, C5), A6 II (4B, C5), SKODA Superb (3U4), VOLKSWAGEN Passat Variant V (3B5), Passat Variant V (3B6), Passat sedan V (3B2), Passat sedan V (3B3) |
| Valeo | 835013 | MERCEDES CLUTCH KIT | MERCEDES Sprinter 2-tc flatbed (901, 902), Sprinter 2-t bus (901, 902), Sprinter 2-t van (901, 902), Sprinter 3-tc flatbed (903), Sprinter 3-t bus (903), Sprinter 3-t van (903), Sprinter 4-t flatbed (904), Sprinter 4-t bus (904), Sprinter 4-t van (904), V-Class (638/2), Vito bus (638), Vito van (638) |
| Valeo | 835014 | RENAULT CLUTCH KIT | RENAULT Espace III (JE0_), Espace IV (JK0/1_), Laguna Grandtour II (KG0/1_), Vel Satis (BJ0_) |
| Valeo | 835015 | IVECO CLUTCH KIT | IVECO DAILY flatbed, IIIDAILY van/station wagon III |
| Valeo | 835022 | MERCEDES CLUTCH KIT | MERCEDES A (W168), Vaneo (V414) |
* Please check the applicability of parts specifically for your car with our managers by phone (calls within Russia are free).
When it's dangerous to drive
During operation, the clutch driven disc necessarily wears out. The intensity of this phenomenon directly depends on driving style. With careful driving, its service life can be 120,000 kilometers.
While driving, it is important for every driver to perceive the signals that the clutch gives and react to them correctly.
Motorists should be alert to the following phenomena:
- clutch slip;
- jerks during its operation;
- extraneous noise when shifting gears;
- the mechanism cannot be released.
This occurs due to fractures of the support bearing, friction linings, and wear of the synchronizer rings. An unexpected critical breakdown is almost always the result of driver inattention. If you ignore the symptoms described above, this will lead to the need to replace the entire clutch basket.
There are circumstances in which it is simply unacceptable to continue driving a car. This cannot be done in the following situations:
- when “jamming” in reverse or high gear;
- on a steep climb or descent;
- in case of instability at work;
- with strong shaking, vibrations, “crunching” at the moment of gear shifting.
Is it possible to drive with such malfunctions?
If such clutch malfunctions are observed, driving such a car every day is prohibited. As a last resort, you can get to a garage or service station. To preserve the unit as much as possible, you should drive carefully, without jerking or revving up the gas, carefully switching gears. Experts recommend using a double squeeze in this situation. Those who have learned to drive ZILs know this technology well.
Its essence is as follows. To shift to a higher gear, you need to depress the pedal and move the gearshift lever to the neutral position. Next, release the pedal, then press it again and turn on the desired speed. Switch to a lower gear in the same way. The only thing is to save the synchronizers, it is recommended to increase the speed a little before turning on by pressing the gas pedal. By the way, this method can be used “everyday”. Experienced motorists say that double squeezing significantly preserves the gearbox and clutch components. The service life of synchronizers, which during such operation operate practically without loads, especially increases.
How to troubleshoot
Every car enthusiast must know what to do if the clutch slips. After all, this problem should be solved as soon as possible, so that during the movement the breakdown does not lead to failure of the motor.
Before removing the gearbox and checking how worn the clutch system components are, it is recommended to make sure that the pedal has sufficient free play. Each manufacturer has a different parameter.
For domestic cars, the free play size is from 20 to 30 millimeters. But it is better to find out exactly the parameter in the operating instructions. When the free play is abnormal, it should be adjusted by tightening or releasing the clutch cable.
If the free play is normal, but the clutch slips, the reason may be disc wear. This is the most common problem. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the gearbox, unscrew the fastenings of the clutch basket, then remove it. Next you can see the driven friction disc. It must be removed and replaced with a new one suitable for the specific car model.
Video “Replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2114”
You can learn more about the process of replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2114 car from the video below.
Has the car's acceleration dynamics become dull, has the car stopped picking up speed vigorously, and sometimes you feel a not-so-pleasant burnt smell inside? Perhaps these are symptoms of the imminent death of one of the most finicky components of a car - the clutch. And what should you do if your car’s clutch starts slipping and a hum starts to appear?
Why does the clutch slip?
Characteristic
The clutch system is a separate design that allows the drive shaft of the motor to be disconnected from the mechanical drive to the drive wheels for a short period of time. This is done to switch to a higher or lower transmission gear. Also, with the help of the clutch, they achieve smoothness when turning on and off the load on the internal combustion engine. This helps prevent damage to the crankshaft of the power unit.
For all vehicles with a manual transmission, the clutch device is standard. So, it consists of a flywheel, a driven disk, a “basket” and a release bearing.
Doesn't turn off completely
This happens when the driver presses the clutch pedal, but the discs do not move completely apart. They continue to touch each other, at least a little, so a complete shutdown does not occur. This is the case when the clutch is said to drive. Experienced motorists know how to check the unit for incomplete shutdown, using signs of clutch failure. This is done quite simply. The engine should be running at low speeds and the clutch pedal should be fully depressed to the floor.
Having provided these conditions, the driver needs to engage first gear. If there are no problems or extraneous sounds when turning on, then there are no signs of clutch wear and we can say that the clutch disengages completely. This means that there are no signs of clutch wear characteristic of incomplete disengagement. If you manage to engage the gear only with some difficulty, as well as extraneous noise, then clutch malfunctions really do exist. Eliminating them will require either replacing the friction linings or the driven disk, or you will have to adjust the drive, as well as clean and lubricate the splines. All this requires certain skills and abilities. The work is responsible, so it is better to trust good specialists.
Spare parts for trucks
Full model range: GAZ-3307, 53, GAZ-3309, GAZ-66, 3308, 33081, 33086, GAZ-33104
Car clutch GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko for diesel engine
The clutch of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko (diesel engine D-245) is permanently closed, single-disk, dry, with a central pressure diaphragm spring and a damper device on the driven disk. Pressure disk 19 (Fig. 1) is connected to casing 10 by three groups of plates.
The clutch and release mechanism of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko are located in the clutch housing 21, which is attached to the rear sheet of the engine with ten nuts 16 studs and a bolt, under which conical spring washers 15 are installed with the convex side to the nuts and the bolt head.
Centering the clutch housing relative to the axis of the engine crankshaft is carried out using two pins 20 pressed into the clutch housing. On the clutch housing there are 6 brackets for the rear engine mounts, which are secured with 5 bolts.
Rice. 1. Clutch GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko (diesel engine D-245)
1 flywheel; 2, 5 - bolts; 3 - fork; 4 — rear cushion; 6 — rear engine mount bracket; 7 — protective ring; 8 — clutch; 9 — rivet of the friction lining; 10 - casing; 11 — support ring; 12, 20 — pins; 13 - bearing; 14 — gearbox input shaft; 15 — washer; 16 - nut; 17 — driven disk; 18 — disc pressure spring; 19 — pressure disk; 21 — clutch housing
There is no gap between the pressure spring 18 and the clutch bearing 8, so the inner ring of the bearing rotates at the engine crankshaft speed. During operation, the clutch does not require adjustments.
The clutch control drive for GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko is hydraulic. The clutch master cylinder 15 (Fig. 2), mounted on the front panel of the cab, is actuated by the suspended pedal 20.
The master cylinder of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko clutch is connected by a hose 2 to one of the sections of the three-section supply tank 1, equipped with an alarm sensor for an emergency drop in the brake fluid level (the other two sections of the tank supply the hydraulic drive of the dual-circuit service brake system).
Rice. 2. Clutch drive of GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko cars
B - compensation hole; G - bypass hole; 1 - supply tank; 2 - supply hose; 3, 18 — fittings; 4, 23 — protective caps; 5, 24 — pushers; 6.33 — bushings; 7.34 - pistons; 8 — piston valve; 9, 14, 35 — cuffs; 10.32, 37 — springs; 11 - coupling; 12 - nut; 13 — thrust washer; 15 — clutch master cylinder; 16 — clutch master cylinder valve; 17 — thrust ring; 19 - pipeline; 20 - pedal; 21 - hose; 22 — clutch slave cylinder; 25 - cover; 26 — fork ring; 27 — fork support axis; 28, 30 — rollers; 29 - coupling pin; 31 — clutch bearing; 36 — spacer sleeve
The working cylinder 22, mounted on the upper part of the clutch housing, is connected to the main cylinder by a pipeline 19 and a hose 21, and is equipped with a valve to remove air from the hydraulic system. When the pedal is not pressed, the cavity under piston 7 of the main cylinder is connected to the reservoir through compensation hole B, which eliminates an increase in pressure in the hydraulic system and clutch slipping.
The bearing 31 of the GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 clutch release clutch is pressed against the pressure spring with a force of 70-100 N (7-10 kgf) using spring 32 through piston 34, pusher 24, fork 3 (see. Fig. 1) and clutch 8. When the clutch linings wear out under the action of the pressure spring, the system takes a new position, compressing spring 32 (Fig. 2).
Excess fluid from the clutch slave cylinder GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko enters the reservoir through a pipeline into the compensation hole in the master cylinder.
The existing bend in the length of the working cylinder for the movement of the piston provides (without adjustment) the calculated wear of the clutch linings. The position (travel) of the clutch pedal relative to the floor is regulated by changing the length of pusher 5. Repair work on the clutch can be carried out without removing the engine from the car.
Removing the clutch of a GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko car
To remove the clutch, you must remove the gearbox and clutch housing.
To remove the clutch housing GAZ-3309, GAZ-3308, GAZ-33081 Sadko, you must do the following:
— disconnect the exhaust system pipe from the clutch housing; — Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the cover of the clutch slave cylinder; — unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the clutch working cylinder, lift up the working cylinder assembled with the pusher, without disconnecting the hose;
