Getting warm or how to install heated seats on a Grant and connect it

Selecting heated seats

In order to choose heated seats, you need to decide what kind of heating you need. There are several types of seat heating for Lada Priora: Cover, Standard heating, Emelya heating

Heated seats from the cigarette lighter (cape)

This type of heating has a wide area of ​​application and is quite easy to install. To install heated seats from the cigarette lighter, you do not need any auto electrician skills. To install such heating, you just need to insert the heating plug into the cigarette lighter and select the heating position. It should be noted that the reliability of such heating leaves much to be desired. Filaments are used as a heating element, but since the cape is poorly attached to the seat and is often subject to creases, which leads to the breakage of the filament and, consequently, failure of the entire heating.

Heated seats standard

The standard heating for Lada Priora is a very reliable device that can be bought at any auto parts store at a price of 1000 rubles. Standard heating has only one heating position and does not regulate the heating temperature, i.e. The seat will heat up until you turn it off. This is its only drawback. The advantage of this heating is that there is no need to use additional intermediate relays to unload the contacts. Since the relay itself is already built into the button. The standard heating has heating elements for the seat and lower back.

Heated seats Emelya

Emelya's heated seats have proven themselves quite well on the market. The cost of such a heating kit is not cheap, starting from 2000 rubles. This heating is installed in the same way as standard heating. However, a significant difference from standard heating is the ability to regulate seat heating. But it is also worth noting that installing the seat heating button in the standard place will be difficult; you will have to cut out and trim the standard place. This type of heating has heating elements for the seat and lower back.

Fuse layout diagram for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

The photo shows fuses for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

As you can see, each fuse is numbered with a corresponding index. In the above illustration, the unit is located on the left side of the steering column and is integrated into the instrument panel. Below are the values ​​of the specific fuse in this mounting block.

Table of fuse values ​​for VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112.

Types of heating elements

The domestic market today offers a huge selection of various devices and devices to increase the comfort of machine control. And seat heating in this case is no exception. First, let's look at the types of systems.

Cases and capes

The heated seat cover can be made in the form of a cover. It should be noted that this version of heating systems is characterized by ease of installation, as well as an affordable price. Installing heated seats in this case comes down to installing a cape and connecting it to the cigarette lighter.

It should be noted that a heated cape for a car is an option that has many disadvantages:

• wires that will constantly get tangled;
• too low level of electrical protection and fire safety;
• heating of the entire area of ​​the cape will be uneven;
• car covers do not always fit successfully into the interior of the car;
• heated rear seats will not be possible.

It should also be noted that installing seat heating in this case requires a free cigarette lighter socket. And since today this socket is universal, since DVRs, radar detectors, GPS navigators and other devices can be powered from it, installing the system will be problematic. You can use a splitter, but due to the large number of consumers, the safety elements may also fail.

Built-in models

If you decide to install heated seats in your car and want to use a built-in type, then you need to take into account that this method is difficult to install. However, you can still install an embedded system yourself.

It should also be noted that built-in heated front seats have certain advantages:

• you can equip not only the front but also the rear seats with a heater;
• such a system should be installed under the seat trim, and the wiring should be laid under the interior upholstery;
• to activate the system, use the seat heating button, and the system itself is connected to the on-board network, accordingly, the cigarette lighter socket will be free;
• the use of such a system will not affect the interior of the cabin.

Health issue

Today, medical professionals are still actively arguing about the harm of heating seats inside cars. Some believe that heating is harmful to men's health. Others, on the contrary, consider this a normal and even useful addition to the car.

The decision is yours in any case. But we recommend not to get carried away with high temperatures. Just warm up the seat a little before you hit the road. And then turn off the system.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Everyone wants to make the interior of their car comfortable , and comfortable first of all when the fifth point is warm

Fire protection for heating

Since heated seats are a rather dangerous thing, it must be equipped with overheating protection. The standard heating and the Emel heating have such protection. The protective function is performed by a thermostat, which automatically turns off if the thermoelement heats up above 25 degrees. This feature allows you to safely use heated seats.

This is what can happen if you use heated seats without protection.

Preparation for installation of heating elements

Before connecting the heated seats on the Grant, you need to secure the heaters under the upholstery of the seats. Of course, it is more convenient to do this on dismantled “seats”, previously disassembled into two parts: the back and the support. Creating acceptable conditions for installing heating elements is the goal of the preparatory stage. By the way, when determining the reasons for the knocking of hydraulic compensators, there is a slightly different logic.

Preliminary activities are carried out according to the following scenario:

• Disconnect the power supply to the seat belt sensor located under the seat. In many trim levels, this option is available only to the driver.
• Using an E10 head mounted on the knob, unscrew the four bolts connecting the base of the seat frame to the body and remove the seat. For ease of access to fastening elements, move the seat to the farthest or closest position. Similarly, remove and pull out the second front “seat” from the passenger compartment.

• Remove the backrest angle adjustment knob by prying it off with two flat-head screwdrivers.
• At the junction of the backrest and seat, remove the plastic covers on the left and right sides by unscrewing one screw each.
• Unscrew 2 bolts on each side securing the backrest frame to the metal base.
• Detach the backrest from the seat.
• Repeat steps 3-6 for the second chair.

Factory covers are attached to the frame with four clips. On the reverse side, the fixing elements are clamped with wires. Having untwisted the latter, we tighten the fabric. Before removing the backrest cover, disconnect the plastic lock at the bottom of the structure. When assembling, it is advisable to replace the wire with plastic clamps.

Installation of heaters

The purpose of preliminary positioning is to achieve such an arrangement of the heaters that the wires exit into the joint of the backrest and seat. You won't be able to play with the longitudinal base - the standard kit is designed strictly according to the dimensions of the depressions. After removing the protective tape, glue the element to the frame. If necessary, the foam is trimmed to allow the wire to exit unnoticed.

Summary

The technology for installing heated front seats on the Lada Granta consists of two stages: installing heating elements under the factory seat covers and connecting them to the on-board electrical network. The proposed electrical circuit organization scheme raises doubts.

The manufacturer of the branded kit suggests connecting the heaters directly to the buttons, and powering them from the alarm control button. Since the circuit is quite loaded, it is better to organize the heating power through two relays with a separate fuse. It is also advisable to replace the buttons - they do not indicate the operating mode.

Power supply or how to connect the heated front seats on the Lada Granta correctly

The cost of installation work at an unofficial service station is at least 2,500 rubles. For this money, already purchased heating elements will be installed in the car seat and the circuit will be connected according to the manual. All that remains is to make an anti-freeze product according to a home recipe and hit the road. This is for the quick ones. Painful owners will probably not like the electrical part of the integration.

Disadvantages of the standard kit

The instructions indicate how to install heated seats on the Grant and connect it to the on-board network. According to what is written, the electrics connect and function like this:

• The permanent plus is taken from the hazard warning button.
• The ground is connected to the bracket for fastening the standard wires of the negative pole.
• The standard fuse is replaced with a more powerful one.
• The heating is turned on/off using the buttons directly.

Only one function is correctly implemented - turning off the heating when the ignition is turned off. Otherwise, the connection scheme is not entirely successful:

1. The positive wire that goes to the emergency light is thin and will probably work at the limit.
2. The contact group of buttons operates in a dangerous mode, since it is not intended for power loads.

For your information. The kit offers simplified buttons for installation - they do not have a power indicator in the form of a yellow lamp (as on the rear window heating control).

Competent connection diagram

An unfortunate result of the standard connection algorithm is a melted fuse. Such a reaction indicates that the circuit is operating at its limit. An alternative scheme for connecting heated seats will help to avoid this. It involves the use of two four-pin relays and powering them from switch K4, which supplies the output “+” after turning on the ignition.

Additional items

It is advisable to carry out installation work after purchasing an additional mounting block of reduced size. You will also need regular contacts for connecting two relays and two Lyra contact elements linking a 10A fuse. We also add additional wires with a cross-section of 4 and 1.5 mm2 to the shopping list.

Search "+"

So, in order to connect the heated front seats on the Grant, you need to find out the number of the output plus of relay K4, which appears after turning on the ignition. This can be either the 87th or the 30th contact.

Usually this is contact element No. 30, but it doesn’t hurt to make sure once again. We remove the relay and diagnose. The test is carried out by connecting a 12V lamp to the 30th contact of the mounting block and ground. After activating the ignition, the lamp should light up.

Connecting elements

It is convenient to disassemble the connection map of the key components of the circuit in the figure. The sequence of actions when assembling the chain is as follows:

• Pull out the “+” terminal, found during the K4 relay test, and connect two wires to it: one (4 mm2) - to the fuse and then to the 87th contact, the second - the control plus from the heating button (pin No. 1). Make a jumper and integrate it back.
• On the “+” route to the seat heating relay, install a 10A fuse by integrating the “Lira” contacts.
• At the second end of the received “+”, make branches for the second switch and control button, connect them to the 87th and 1st contacts.
• Make two ground wires with jumpers that will be attached to the 85th, A and C terminals.
• Route the control wiring and the backlight wire from the buttons to the mounting block. Connect 2nd contacts to 86th; B – with fuse fastening element F9 or F10.
• Connect your “+” heating elements to the 30th contacts of each relay.

It is convenient to make jumpers or branches using male-female contact pairs. It is better to avoid “twists” by connecting the wires directly in the block and making bends.

Installation of standard seat heating from VAZ 2115 in Lada Granta

Installation of heated seats on Granta heating elements. Implementation directly into the seats of the Lada Grant. This is a standard heater from a VAZ-2115 (Identified by serial number). It doesn’t quite fit, but I’ll tell you in detail exactly how to fit this kit to the Lada Granta.

To install heated seats we will need: 1. A key or socket with an E10 wrench. (as in the photo) 2. Double-sided fabric tape. Buy in advance so you don't have to go shopping later. 3. Plastic ties (clamps) with a length of at least 250 mm.

Must be prepared in advance

4. Insulating tape (electrical tape). 5. Wiring kit for connecting heating (I had one with heating pads) 6. A Phillips screwdriver and two flathead ones. 7. A key or socket with a 13 mm wrench.

If everything is prepared, you can start.

1. First of all, you need to remove the front seats. Everything is simple here. Just before unscrewing the driver's seat, look under it and pull out the seat belt indicator connector. To do this, press the connector latch and pull it towards you.

Removing the connector

The seats are attached to the body in Grant with four bolts. The head of the bolts is a so-called “euro” head (E10). Unscrew these bolts and remove the seats. For convenience, we bring them home and start working with them.

Unscrew the front bolts

Unscrew the rear bolts

2. We begin to disassemble the seats in the Lada Granta interior. We need to remove the backrest. To do this, turn the chair on its side. Take two flat screwdrivers. We insert them on both sides under the backrest angle adjustment knob and remove it by prying it up.

Removing the backrest angle adjustment knob

Unscrew one self-tapping screw with a Phillips screwdriver.

Unscrew the self-tapping screw

After that, using a flat screwdriver, we separate the two halves of the plastic caps. We do this very carefully, because you can accidentally break the pins.

Pry it off with a flat screwdriver

Take a 13 mm wrench. and unscrew the two M8 mm bolts securing the seat back to the base.

Unscrew two bolts

After this, we do the same on the opposite side. Then we separate the halves of the chairs.

2. Now you need to remove the factory seat covers. Let's start with the lower frame of the chair. We turn it upside down. The cover is attached to the frame with factory fasteners made of rigid wire.

Factory settings

They are easily released with pliers. To unclamp, you need to pinch the edge of the wire with pliers and twist it in a circular motion. The photo shows the places where you need to disconnect these same clamps.

Places for attaching the cover to the frame in the interior of the Lada Granta

After all the latches marked in the photo are released, we move the cover to the side and see the foam casting.

Factory foam casting for Granta fret

2.Now you need to release the seat back cover. There is a plastic lock at the bottom of the backrest. We disconnect it along the perimeter and lift up part of the cover. Turn the back over to the back side up. Under the cover you will see the same latches. It is necessary to remove four pieces, as in the photo.

Fasteners for fastening the cover on the back of the Granta fret chair

3. After the foam casting is exposed, we take our warmers, try them on and fasten them. Let's start from the back. The backrest heating pad has a trapezoidal shape, just like the space on the backrest for heating our chair. But it matches the chair only upside down, with the wire facing up. I had to attach this heating pad with the wire facing down, otherwise there wouldn’t be enough wire. But that’s okay, because it doesn’t interfere with anything. Take fabric tape and tape the heating pad around the perimeter something like this:

Cover the backrest with fabric tape

We tear off the protective layer of tape and glue the heating pad onto the foam casting.

Finished chair back

Now let's try on the bottom part. There are some pitfalls here too. Everything seems to fit, but the wires come out of the edge. And they should be in the middle in the section. Well, there's nothing wrong with that. To prevent the wires from sticking out through the upholstery, they need to be recessed a little. We take a sharp utility knife and make a groove for the wire in the foam, as in the photo:

We embed the wire in the foam casting

Now, just like on the back, we cover the heating pad with tape.

Cover the heating pad on the bottom of the chair

Next, glue the heating pad to the foam casting. There are a few things to note here. At the place where the heating pad is cut, you need to glue it with a fold. If you do not make this reserve, the wire that is in the case will pull on the heating element. And it may break over time due to this. And one more thing, you need to trim the two edges of the heating pad as in the photo.

Fitting the heating pad in place

We do this very carefully. We probe the heating element with our fingers and under no circumstances damage it with scissors. This is necessary in order for the two cover fastening clamps to fit at the edges. We pass the power input wire into the central hole of the foam molding, and pass the connection wire to the back through the back.

4. After gluing the heating, we begin to pull the seat covers back on. To secure the cover to the frame, we use plastic clamps instead of the factory wire fasteners. First we thread the clamp into the case. Then we thread the two ends of the clamp into the foam and close the clamp to the fastener.

We use plastic clamps instead of wire clamps

After securing the covers and connecting the two heating pads, we get approximately the following picture:

Assembled lower part of the chair

Assembled chair back

5. Next, twist everything in the reverse order.

Well, the introduction of heating elements into our chairs can be considered complete.

Connecting the heating elements of the wiring to the on-board network in the interior of the Lada Granta.

Many connect heating through one or two relays. I had a small diagram included with the wiring harness for connecting the heating. There were no relays marked on it, just as there were no relays in the wiring itself. And the power was taken from the alarm connector. It was also indicated there that it is necessary to replace the original 5 A fuse of this circuit with a more powerful one - 10 A. Let's check if such a connection is safe: After installing the heaters in the chairs, I connected them to a powerful 12 V power supply to check their functionality . At the same time, I decided to understand the connection in more detail and make sure that this circuit is reliable and correct. I connected an ammeter to the circuit and measured the amperage under load. You can see the results in the photo:

Single seat heating circuit load

As you can see above, with a heating power supply load for one seat, the current consumption is in the range of 2.4-2.5 A. We look at the maximum load current of our heating button - it is equal to 5A (Stamped on the button itself). That is, the current reserve for our button is quite large. The conclusion that follows is that the buttons can be freely used without a relay.

Next, you need to find out the total amperage of heating consumption on two chairs. Turn it on and measure it.

Total heating load for two seats.

We see that the amperage did not go beyond 5 A. It follows that the recommendation in the wiring diagram is correct. That is, you can take the plus (with the ignition on) from the alarm connector and increase the fuse rating of this circuit by 5A. But I decided not to pull the wires so far, and took the plus from the connector for adjusting the heater blowing speed. There is a wire with a thicker cross-section than on the emergency gang, and there is no need to pull it through the entire panel.

Now after the theoretical part, let's get down to business:

It is most convenient to connect the wiring with the seats removed. First of all, we need to remove the plastic floor tunnel. It is secured with five self-tapping screws. To begin, unscrew two screws on the right and left of the tunnel. Their location can be seen from the photographs:

Right side of the tunnel

Left side of the tunnel

Next you need to unscrew the fifth screw. It has a very unfortunate location. To access it you need to remove the handbrake cover. Unscrew the 3 screws, remove it and put it aside.

Handbrake housing

You also need to unscrew the head by 13 mm. one handbrake bracket bolt. And move it to the side.

Unscrew the handbrake bracket bolt

Now there is access to the fifth bolt of the floor tunnel. We unscrew it.

Fifth floor tunnel mounting bolt

Now, after we have unscrewed all five bolts, we need to remove the decorative silver gear selector trim. You can carefully pry it off with a flat screwdriver, push the latches aside, and pull it out. But I didn’t take any risks so as not to accidentally break the latches and scratch the overlay. I simply lifted the tunnel up a little, put my hand under it and unscrewed the latches by feel. To visualize the location of the latches, here is a photo of this socket from the back side:

Location of latches on the automatic transmission gear selection panel

After removing this panel, you need to pull the boot out of it. To do this, carefully bend the four latches on the inside.

Removing the automatic transmission selector panel boot

When you snap off the boot, you need to remove this panel from the lever. Then you need to disconnect the overdrive connector and cut off the plastic clamp holding the wire. Now you can finally put this panel aside.

Overdrive connector

Now, you need to pull the floor tunnel out of its place. To do this, you need to move the gear selector lever to its extreme position “L”. And release the handbrake. Since we unlock the front wheels by moving the selector lever from the “P” position, the car can roll. It is imperative to place wheel chocks or bricks under the wheels. To unlock the lever, you need to turn on the ignition, press the brake, press the button on the selector, and only after that the lever will obediently move to the lower position. And only after all these manipulations can the floor tunnel be pulled out. After removing the tunnel we see this picture:

Automatic transmission selector

Next we take the wiring kit. The connectors that connect to the seats must be inserted under the seat slide into the hole in the body. To do this, we pull out the “mother” from the chip, because with the chip the connector will not fit into the holes.

Taking it out of the chip

Next we insert the wires into the holes. You can clearly see where the wires are laid in the photo:

Holes in the body

Already laid wire ends

Now you need to remove the center console of the instrument panel. Next, we roughly place the heating buttons in their future location in the floor tunnel.

Heating buttons

Connect the ground. I took the most reliable mass from the regular place here:

Ground connection

Next, we lay the rest of the wiring under the panel along with the original harness.

Wiring harness

We carry the wires together with the standard harness. You can tape the wires to the harness with electrical tape. But I used plastic zip ties. This way, in my opinion, it’s more convenient.

We route the power wires along the standard wiring harness

We connect the power wires to the connector of the heater handle. The blue wire in the center is the positive wire from the ignition. The white thin wire is a plus when the dimensions are on. We isolate everything carefully.

Connecting the heating power wires to the heater connector

That's all. The wires are pulled and connected. Before assembly, be sure to check that the connection is correct. If everything is correct, when the ignition is turned on, when you press the heating button, the orange indicator light in it should light up. And when the dimensions are turned on, the buttons should be illuminated with a greenish backlight.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Heating on

Work on installing heated seats for the Lada Granta has been completed

Installation of heated seats from Astra-N in Lada Granta

In general, after installing the seats from Astra, I wanted to add heating. There is little information on the Internet about connecting wisely... so I did it the old fashioned way. I bought a button from Granta, a regular two-pin relay. Power was supplied to the seat through a relay directly from the battery, and the control wire was from the ignition, so that it would not turn on without the ignition.

the scythe itself, relay + button...

there was only one place... so the second signal will have to be connected to one button

For those who will also install heating... the seat has a heating unit... if you connect it directly not to the standard Astra button, then you need two wires, red + and brown -... that's all...

I’ll say right away that the heating works 500%. Much better than standard heating on basins... it heats up in one fell swoop and bakes so you can fry the pies! In general, it’s a necessary thing.

Installation of heated seats on the Lada Granta with your own hands

Unpacking the kit here - 7% .

Seat heating kit for Lada Granta

Standard seat heating

Granta
car .
The kit is completely ready for installation
, has.

Now you need to release the seat back cover. There is a plastic lock at the bottom of the backrest. We disconnect it along the perimeter and lift up part of the cover. Turn the back over to the back side up. Under the cover you will see the same latches. It is necessary to remove four pieces, as in the photo.

After the foam casting is exposed, we take our warmers, try them on and attach them. Let's start from the back. The backrest heating pad has a trapezoidal shape, just like the space on the backrest for heating our chair. But it matches the chair only upside down, with the wire facing up.

I had to attach this heating pad with the wire facing down, otherwise there wouldn’t be enough wire. The price of the issue is “0” rubles or installing heated seats on installing on heating,. But that’s okay, because it doesn’t interfere with anything. Take some fabric tape and tape the heating pad around the perimeter like this.

• We tear off the protective layer of tape and glue the heating pad onto the foam casting.

Now we try on the lower part, that is, on the seats. There are some pitfalls here too. Everything seems to fit, but the wires come out of the edge.

And they should be in the middle in the section. Well, there's nothing wrong with that. To prevent the wires from sticking out through the upholstery, they need to be recessed a little.

We take a sharp utility knife and make a groove for the wire in the foam, as in the photo.

Now, just like on the back, we cover the heating pad with tape. Next, glue the heating pad to the foam casting. There are a few things to note here.

note

At the place where the heating pad is cut, you need to glue it with a fold. If you do not make this reserve, the wire located in the case will pull on the heating element. And it may break over time due to this.

And one more thing, you need to trim the two edges of the heating pad as in the photo.

We do this very carefully. We probe the heating element with our fingers and under no circumstances damage it with scissors. This is necessary so that the two fasteners for fastening the cover fit at the edges. We thread the power input wire into the central hole of the foam molding, and pass the connection wire to the back through the back.

After gluing the heating, we begin to pull the seat covers back on. To secure the cover to the frame, we use plastic clamps instead of the factory wire fasteners.

Installation algorithm

• Installing heated seats on a Lada Granta may take you at least 3 hours
  , so calculate your schedule. Especially when the weather is frosty outside.
• We drive the car into the garage, if in the summer, then it can be on any flat and clean surface;
• We turn off the engine, squeeze the handbrake, put it in gear or wedge the wheels with shoes;
• We are interested in the central part of the dashboard, called the beard, and the front driver's seat. By analogy, you can install it on all the others or leave it on one;

We took it off, and in front of us is a picture of a tunnel niche. On the sides at the front it is secured with two screws on each side and one at the back. Unscrew them using a screwdriver. Please note right away that the rear screws cannot be unscrewed without lifting the handbrake handle and removing the pressure sensor and casing. Otherwise, you won't be able to access it with a screwdriver.

Let's move on to the seat

. Place it on a clean and flat surface. Use pliers to remove the fasteners from the bottom. We do this carefully, as everything is fragile and delicate. Remove the top part of the casing.

We unpack our heater and check its integrity. On the bottom of the seat you will see a pre-installation in the form of a through hole, and stretch the wires from the pad there. And secure the heater itself to the foam rubber using double-sided tape, which is installed there by default, so that it does not fidget.

After checking the tightness of the fit and the exit of the wires from the hole, we cover the foam rubber with sheathing and fasten the brackets back

. If their further installation is not possible, you can use ordinary wire as a replacement, if it is not important to you.

We're done with the seat, let's return to the interior of our car. We run wiring under the rugs. We connect the ground to the handbrake sensor on the body, and plus the developers clearly indicate the “emergency light”. I don’t know why I went there, they probably know better.

The keys themselves (depending on the configuration) are located in the backstage area and have a greenish LED backlight. If the circuit is correct they will light up.

After the electric hoses are laid, we install the seat itself and connect the chips. We test the heating; it should be felt in four squares at once, evenly over the entire area.

We put everything back together in reverse order.

This completes the installation of heated seats on the Lada Granta. Enjoy the warmth while the thermometer outside the window shows minus. Good luck to you.

The best built-in systems

To choose high-quality seat heating, you should pay attention to the following brands:

There are no permanent systems for child seats, since such installation of heated seats will be fraught with many difficulties. However, if necessary, you can make a heater for any type of seat yourself.

Features of electrical equipment

Innovations concerned not only the spelling of the car name, but also the modern “stuffing” of the vehicle. In particular, the car received:

1. Three power units of different power (from 87 hp to 108 hp);
2. Manual and automatic transmission;
3. Driver airbag;
4. Electric power steering.

ECM of the 1.4 liter Lada Kalina engine
These innovations were already available in the basic configuration of the car. In addition, the wiring in Kalina made it possible to connect additional devices (see also the Gazelle Business wiring diagram).

Buyers could also choose options offered by the automaker, most of which were new products for the domestic auto industry:

1. ABS and ESP systems;
2. Heated front seats;
3. Airbag for front passenger;
4. Audio system with touch screen;
5. Air conditioner;
6. Navigation system;
7. Rain and light sensors, etc.

Installation of heated rear seats on LADA cars

The option “Heated rear seats of a car” is no longer uncommon; it can be found in the list of equipment even for budget foreign cars. AvtoVAZ is constantly improving its LADA models, but the turn has not yet come to heating the rear sofa. Let's figure out how to equip your car with this useful function with your own hands.

Installation and connection of heated rear seats for all LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4x4) is carried out in the same way. There are no fundamental differences. In this example, the modification process is shown on a Lada Priora car.

Installation

Required:

• kit “heated front seats”, for example, from a VAZ 2110 or Priora (article 2170-6513010-03);
• seat heating control buttons (for example, those from the VAZ 2110 have article number 2110-3709710);
• relay 4-pin (1119-3747210-10);
• wires.

Installation of heating mats

:

1. Remove the rear sofa and rear seat backs (instructions for XRAY, Vesta, Granta/Kalina).
2. I removed the trim from the seats (held on by rings).
3. Insert heating into the backrest and sofa.
4. Install the seat trim in the reverse order.

Installing buttons for heated rear seats

in a place convenient for you. For example, in a floor tunnel.

Connection

Rear seat heating connection diagram:

It is better to take contact “B” from a protected high-current circuit with a fuse. Contacts “A” and “C” can be found in the ERA-GLONASS lighting lamp, in the ISO radio or cigarette lighter connector. Before starting the connection, do not forget to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Installation and connection of heated rear seats on a Lada Vesta on video in several episodes:

Let us remind you that we previously told you how to connect heated windows/mirrors to an additional alarm channel on Lada Vesta and XRAY, as well as how to turn on the heated windshield through a separate button.

Door pinout for first generation Kalina

In all versions of the first generation Lada Kalina, the cable routing is the same.

Driver's door

1. Output to the rear harness.
2. A bundle of wires for connecting the speaker.
3. Locking device.
4. Driver's door control switch pinout element.
5. Voltage to switch harnesses.
6. Connection of the harness line to the mounting unit.
7. Same as 5.
8. Same as 6.
9. Window regulator.

For front passenger

1. Exit to the stern beam.
2. Output to the appropriate speaker.
3. Door lock drive.
4. Electric window lift key.
5. Power window control unit terminal harness.
6. To the switch key of the corresponding node.
7. Gearbox of the above device.

Rear doors

On the rear doors, the terminals are similar for both sides. Only two terminals are used here, where the first serves to connect to the rear electrical harness. The second is designed to supply an impulse and power to lock the doors.

Homemade engine heater with pump

When making a homemade internal combustion engine heater with a pump, you need to take into account the following nuances:

1. The heater and pump can be installed anywhere in the cooling system. The pump creates the necessary pressure, allowing the consumable to circulate forcibly.
2. To ensure good heating of the soldering area, it is better to use gas or spot welding.

What will be needed for production?

To create such a heater, you will need:

• a piece of thick-walled pipe 80 mm long;
• pump (in the example a pump from Gazelle is used);
• two 20 mm hoses;
• metal plate;
• nichrome thread.

Manufacturing stages

Step-by-step assembly instructions:

1. First, the thick-walled tube is processed. It is necessary to ensure that its appearance and diameter correspond to the required dimensions.
2. Two disks are cut from a metal plate. The dimensions of these components must correspond to the diameters of the pipes.
3. One additional plate is welded or soldered to each disk. This will ensure better heat transfer and efficient heating.
4. To create a heat exchanger, you can process the seams of the device with a soldering iron or welding equipment. At this stage, it is important to make sure there is a good seal and no gaps to prevent liquid leakage in the future. High-quality electrical insulation can be achieved by using asbestos sheets.
5. The nichrome spiral is attached to a sheet of paronite; the fixation is carried out in special holes. To ensure better performance, the resistance of the spiral should be in the range of 2.5-4 Ohms.
6. Heating elements must be laid in spirals downwards. To ensure maximum insulation, the device must be wrapped in thermal insulation material, for example, foam film.

Installing a homemade heater

Installation of the heating system is performed as follows:

1. The lower hose for supplying antifreeze to the stove is cut.
2. A heat exchanger equipped with a water pump is inserted into the gap formed. The pump is necessary to circulate the refrigerant through a small circle of the cooling system.
3. The heating system is connected to the wiring using a separate toggle switch with an executive relay. If the device turns off over time, the circuit must be equipped with an additional relay.
4. All contact components are connected.
5. The heater installed in the car, all hoses and pipes are visually checked for lack of sealing. If any area is suspected, it is recommended to immediately replace the clamps. The initial start-up of the heater is carried out and the operation of the system is checked.

Video: DIY installation of a heater with a pump

The Do-It-Yourself Auto Service channel published a video showing the process of installing an engine heater with a pump yourself.

Fuse and relay box

The fuse and relay box is located on the left, lower part of the instrument panel. It is accessible by pressing the button and folding the lid down. To remove fuses, there are special non-conductive pliers in the upper left part of the mounting block.

1 - K5 - high beam relay . If the high beams in two headlights do not work, check this relay. If one of the high beam headlights does not work, check fuses F3 and F13, as well as the lamps and the high beam switch.

2 - K4 - low beam relay . If the low beam in both headlights does not work, check this relay. If only one low beam headlight does not work, check fuses F2 and F12, as well as the lamps themselves and the light switch.

3 - K1 - lamp health control relay.

4 - non-conductive tweezers for removing fuses.

5 - power window relay . If your power windows stop working, check this relay. It could also be in fuse F5, or in the window lift drive system itself. To get to the mechanism, you need to remove the door trim. Check the electric motor, the appearance of the gears and the absence of binding of the mechanism.

6 - K3 - turn signal and hazard warning relay . If your turn signals or hazard lights do not work, check this relay and fuse F16, as well as the turn signal lamps themselves and their switch.

7 - starter relay . If the car does not start and the starter does not turn, check this relay. It could also be a dead battery, as well as the starter mechanism itself.

8 - backup fuses.

9 - fog lamp relay . If the fog lights do not work, check this relay and fuses F4 and F14. Also check their connection diagram, the serviceability of the wiring and connectors, as well as the lamps in the headlights and the power button.

Instructions for making stationary heating

How to make heated seats with your own hands and how to connect the system you have made? It is quite possible to build such a device at home; for this you will need nichrome wire and fabric. The wire itself can be sewn into a chair or into fabric; we will consider the second option.

1. So, you will need three meters of wire; this piece should be divided into two equal parts. One one and a half meter piece will be needed for the seat itself, and the second for the back.
2. The wire should be sewn to a piece of fabric; any material can be used for this. To make heating more efficient, you need to sew the wire in a zigzag manner.
3. After this, the wire can be connected directly to the battery - it should heat up slowly and after a few minutes the chair will be warm.

The connection diagram for seat heating itself is quite simple, and most importantly, inexpensive to implement. To connect, it is recommended to use special buttons with thermostats, this will allow you to adjust the degree of heating if necessary. Otherwise, overheating may cause the seat to catch fire.

Options

First, it’s worth considering which seat options can be used in the VAZ 2107. Here you need to take into account the mounting features, as well as the dimensions of the seats. After all, this item should not only match the fastenings, but also fit normally in the cabin. There are examples when the seat is too high or interferes with driving. Therefore, you need to make your choice very carefully.

Many drivers claim that seats from a 1996 Mercedes W210 are optimally installed in this model. Such seats can be seen in many “sevens”. Moreover, the owners claim that no modifications were required for installation. Everything fit into the fastenings, as if it had been specially designed.

You can install seats from a 1993 Toyota Corolla in a similar manner. This option also does not need to be modified. We just install it, fasten it in the standard way, and move on. All fasteners fit perfectly.

If desired, you can install almost any seats from Skoda and Fiat. They are completely the same in terms of the size of the sled, as well as the main fastenings. But, there is one caveat. These seats have a slightly shifted center of gravity. Therefore, for greater stability and reliability of the resulting structure, it is recommended to add a couple of additional holes for fastening on each side.

Without modifications, you can install seats from Volkswagen, but this option is practically not used in practice. The reason is that the seat height is too high, making it inconvenient for drivers to operate the car.

It is also possible to supply options from Peugeot and Nissan. But there are a number of difficulties here. Installation will require a lot of reworking of the fasteners, which will take quite a lot of time. There may also be problems with seat settings.

Convenient alternative: replacing the car seat

The most convenient - but also the most expensive - option for installing a seat heater in a car is to replace the entire seat with an analog one, but with a heating function.

Suitable car seats with heated seats can be purchased at a salvage yard. Depending on the time of year, a set of two seats will cost from 5 to 30, 60 thousand rubles or even more: baza.drom.ru

The following rule also applies here: if the seat is fitted with a side airbag, removal and installation must only be carried out by a specialist. The price is usually negotiable.

Sources

• https://enginehack.ru/ustanovka-podogreva-sidenij/
• https://o-ladagranta.ru/kak-samomu-ustanovit-podogrev-sidenij/
• https://AVSU-pitanie.ru/info/podkljuchenie-podogreva-sidenij-lada-granta/
• https://avto-ritet.ru/remont/ustanovka-podogreva-sidenij-na-lada-granta-3-chasa-na-vse-pro-vse.html
• https://www.spike.su/index.php/%D0%A3%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BA%D0%B0 -%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%B0-%D1%81%D0%B8%D0%B4 %D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B9-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D0%93%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%82%D1%83 .html
• https://prometey96.ru/obsluzhivanie/shema-podklyucheniya-podogreva-sidenij.html

Fuses, list and description

The electrical circuit of the Kalina-2 car can contain up to 38 fuses in total. The block installed under the hood contains 6 fuses designed for significant current. We, in turn, will consider the diagram of the main block:

All fuses in the electrical circuit of Kalina-2

1. F1, 15A: ignition, injectors, power supply to the ECU and radiator fan relay;
2. F2, 25A: power supply to the TsBKE unit and the front left door module;
3. F3, 15A: electric drive of the automatic transmission, also power supply to the automatic transmission ECU;
4. F4, 15A: power supply for airbag assembly;
5. F5, 7.5A: speed sensor, brake pedal sensor, power supply to the instrument panel and ESD, ECM controllers, power supply to the automatic transmission selector, voltage on the windings of the unloading relay and the relay of the glass and seat heaters, power supply to the body electronics unit, washer switch;
6. F6, 7.5A: power supply for automatic transmission electronics and reverse lamp relay;
7. F7, 7.5A: voltage at the canister purge valve, at the phase sensor, mass air flow sensor, DC;
8. F8, 25A: rear window heater and mirror heater circuit;
9. F9, 5A: all “dimensions” on the right;
10. F10, 5A: all “dimensions” on the left, license plate lights, keys;
11. F11, 5A: rear fog lights;
12. F12, 10A: low beam lamp, electric corrector for the right headlight;
13. F13, 10A: low beam lamp, electric corrector for the left headlight;
14. F14, 10A: high beam lamp on the right;
15. F15, 10A: high beam lamp on the left;
16. F16, 10A: “fog light” on the right;
17. F17, 10A: “fog light” on the left;
18. F18, 20A: seat heater circuit and cigarette lighter circuit;
19. F19, 7.5A: ABS controller power supply;
20. F20, 15A: signal;
21. F21, 10A: fuel pump motor;
22. F22, 15A: windshield and rear window washers, rear wiper;
23. F23, 5A: power supply to the diagnostic connector, as well as to the instrument panel;
24. F24, 7.5A: air conditioner motor-compressor clutch circuit, power supply to the air conditioner controller;
25. F25, 7.5A: voltage at the brake pedal sensor;
26. F26, 7.5A: ABS valve drives;
27. F31, 30A: short-term switching on of high beams, power supply to the central bank, gear motor for front wipers;
28. F32, 30A: heater fan circuit, power supply to the air conditioner controller.

Replacement features

Briefly about the procedure for replacing the control module on Kalina 2:

1. First, the instruments are dismantled from the center console; there is nothing difficult about it.
2. Then the lower part of the center console trim is unscrewed, the trim is removed, and you gain access to the fuse and relay box.
3. The mounting block with safety devices can be unscrewed, but it cannot be removed because it is connected by wires. You can rotate it a little so that it takes a horizontal position.
4. You can stick your hand into the gap formed as a result of turning. Having done this, you will be able to feel the shelf on which the TsBKE is installed. A little to the left there is a bolt with which this module is fixed - you need to unscrew it.
5. After this, through the top, through the instrument panel, you will need to disconnect the two connected connectors. After completing these steps, you can carefully dismantle the CBKE and remove it by slightly moving the fuse box. Please note that you should not pull the device too hard, since there are two more connectors on the other side that will need to be disconnected. When the wires are disconnected, the CBKE can be completely dismantled and repaired or replaced.

Photo gallery “Assistance in replacing CBKE”