How much oil is in the VAZ 2109 engine - how and when to change it

Print this article Font size 16

In order for the engine to operate reliably, efficiently and for a long time, it is extremely important to monitor the quality and quantity of oil in it.

For the VAZ 2109, the recommended engine oil change interval is 10 thousand kilometers. But you need to focus on your specific situation. Practice shows that replacement is sometimes carried out much more often.

How many liters of oil are in a VAZ 2109 engine

3.5 liters

Engine oil Lada 2108/2109, 1st generation, 1990 - 2004, body 2109

1.1 l, 54 hp, gasoline, manual transmission, front-wheel drive, 1990 - 2004

• Equipment: 1.1 MT Base
• Engine: VAZ-21081

Additional Information

• Oil type: synthetic

1.3 l, 64 hp, gasoline, manual transmission, front-wheel drive, 1990 - 2004

• Options: 1.3 MT Base
• Engine: VAZ-210993

Additional Information

• Oil type: synthetic

1.5 l, 70 hp, gasoline, manual transmission, front-wheel drive, 1990 - 2004

• Options: 1.5 MT Base
• Engine: VAZ-210990

Additional Information

• Oil type: synthetic

1.5 l, 78 hp, gasoline, manual transmission, front-wheel drive, 1994 - 2004

• Trims: 1.5i MT Base
• Engine: VAZ-21099i

Additional Information

• Oil type: synthetic

1.6 l, 81 hp, gasoline, front-wheel drive/all-wheel drive (4WD), manual transmission, 1994 - 2004

• Trims: 1.6i MT Base, 1.6i MT Victory
• Engine: VAZ-210994

Additional Information

• Oil type: synthetic

When to change

According to the instructions for “eight” and “nine” cars, the oil should be changed at least every 10,000 km. However, there are a number of nuances when the mileage for replacement is reduced or the oil needs to be changed:

1. When buying a car second-hand, you need to change the oil. As a rule, the previous owner of the car, trying to “save money,” does not resort to changing the oil. Therefore, changing the oil on a newly purchased car will protect your engine from unpleasant surprises.
2. After the car has been idle for a long time. For example, after winter storage, it is better to change the lubricant to a new one, since when the engine is idle for a long time, condensation accumulates in it. Mixed with engine oil, this suspension will negatively affect engine parts, causing their premature wear.
3. The operating conditions of the vehicle should also be taken into account. An aggressive driving style, as well as driving in urban conditions, contributes to intensive wear of internal parts. As a result, particles of metal shavings get into the engine lubricant, thereby worsening the lubricating properties of the oil.

After how many km should you change the engine oil?

Many car owners do not know how often to change the oil in their car’s engine or doubt the data provided by the manufacturer on the frequency of replacing consumables. And for good reason. Replacement every 10-15 thousand kilometers is often not entirely correct.

It is better to be guided by the number of engine hours worked and the average speed. There are many components to the answer to the question of how often to change engine oil. Among them are the recommendations of the car manufacturer, operating conditions of the car (heavy/light, in the city/on the highway, often/rarely used), mileage before changing the oil and total mileage, technical condition of the car and the oil used.

Also, the frequency of engine oil changes is influenced by additional factors - the number of engine hours, engine power and displacement, time since the last oil change (even without taking into account the operation of the machine). Next, we will tell you in detail about how often to change the engine oil, what it is like, and other things that will probably be useful to you.

For those who do not want to go into details and understand everything in detail, we will immediately give an answer regarding the change interval: in urban conditions, the oil “works” for 8-12 thousand, on the highway/light driving mode without traffic jams it lasts up to 15 thousand km. The most accurate way to find out when to change it can only be obtained from a laboratory analysis of the oil used.

Types of flushes

The procedure for cleaning the engine when changing the oil directly depends on the type of flushing fluid used:

Special flushing oil

This is a technical fluid with a mineral composition, which includes many active additives. Unlike the “five-minute”, it does not wash off the protective layer from the rubbing parts, having a milder effect on the internal combustion engine. But you also need to use it no longer than 5-10 minutes, at idle speed

Manufacturers recommend using it before adding new oil. You need to drive the flushing oil in a gentle mode (as during break-in - low load, speed no higher than 3000 per minute) for 100-200 km, and then fill in new oil and change the filter.

Regular motor oil

A technical fluid with reduced quality or viscosity is used. You can flush the engine with the same oil that is planned to replace the previous fluid. To do this, the engine must be operated for 1-2 days and the lubricant must be replaced again.

Chemical compositions of the “five-minute”

These are organic solvents that resemble ordinary water in consistency. To clean the engine, such liquid must be poured into the engine, instead of old oil, and let it run for 5-10 minutes in idle mode. Then the oil is changed to a new one, with the oil filter replaced.

It is strictly forbidden to operate the engine for five minutes, as there is a chance of heating the rubbing surfaces, followed by a wedge of the piston group.

The compositions have an aggressive composition; when mixed with old oil, unwanted chemical reactions can occur. The problem is aggravated by incomplete removal of the composition when adding new oil.

Diesel fuel and kerosene

Flushing with diesel fuel, kerosene in diluted form (add 50% by volume of oil), or without dilution. This is an old method, it has its fans, it captivates with its cheapness.

However, it is strictly not recommended to flush the engine when changing the oil (and in any case) using such means. Fuel can damage the seals. Intensive washing out of deposits can negatively affect the engine lubrication system, clogging its small-diameter channels with lumps of deposits.

The lubricating properties of diesel fuel and kerosene are insufficient; during operation, intensive wear of engine friction pairs occurs.

Also, when changing the oil, you must also change the oil filter. Otherwise, there is a chance that the new technical fluid will react with sediment and lose its beneficial properties.

conclusions

Engine flushes should not be used without compelling reasons.

If flushing is carried out, change the oil again after 2-3 thousand km without using flushing compounds.

The best flushing is a timely change of engine oil. By reducing the interval between oil changes to 7.5 thousand km, you can increase the service life of the engine. Old deposits will be slowly washed away without harming it.

Change the oil after pre-warming the engine. Drain through a special hole at the bottom of the engine crankcase. Take your time and let the remaining old oil drain.

What affects the replacement frequency

Each car manufacturer provides detailed information in the car manual about when to change the engine oil. However, the fact is that this information is not always correct. As a rule, the documentation contains a value of 10...15 thousand kilometers (in each individual case the number may differ). But in reality, several factors influence the mileage between replacements.

10 indicators that affect the timing of engine oil changes

1. Type of fuel (gas, gasoline, diesel) and its quality
2. Engine capacity
3. Brand of previously filled oil (synthetic, Semy-Synt, mineral oil)
4. Classification and type of oils used (API and longlife system)
5. Engine oil condition
6. Replacement method
7. Total engine mileage
8. Technical condition of the car
9. Operating conditions and modes
10. Quality of consumables

The manufacturer's instructions are not included in this list, since for him the service interval is a marketing concept.

Operating modes

First of all, the timing of engine oil changes is affected by the operation of the vehicle. Without delving into the essence of the various transient processes, it is worth mentioning two main modes - on the highway and in the city. The fact is that when a car drives along the highway, firstly, the mileage accumulates much faster, and secondly, normal cooling of the engine occurs. Accordingly, the load on the engine and the oil used in it is not so high. On the contrary, if the car is used in the city, then its mileage will be significantly lower, and the load on the engine will be higher due to the fact that it often stops at traffic lights and traffic jams with the engine running. The cooling will be insufficient.

In this regard, it would be more intelligent to calculate how long it takes to change the engine oil, based on engine hours , as is done in truck, agricultural and water equipment. Let's give an example. The car will travel 10 thousand kilometers in urban conditions (at an average speed of 20...25 km/h) in 400...500 hours. And the same 10 thousand on the highway at a speed of 100 km/h - in only 100 engine hours. Moreover, the operating conditions of the engine and oil on the highway are much milder.

Driving in a metropolitan area is rightly equated to driving on rough off-road conditions in terms of how it destroys oil. This is especially true when its level in the crankcase is below average, and even worse when it is less than the minimum level. Also remember that in hot summer weather the oil is subject to a much greater load due to high temperatures, including from the hot surface of roads in big cities.

Engine size and type

What affects the frequency of oil changes
The more powerful the engine, the easier it is for it to survive load changes, as well as difficult operating conditions. Accordingly, the oil will not have such a strong impact. For a powerful engine, driving along the highway at a speed of 100...130 km/h does not exert a significant load; it will be below average. As the speed increases, the load on the engine, and therefore on the oil, will change smoothly.

Small cars are another matter. As a rule, they are equipped with a “short” transmission, that is, the gears are designed for a small speed range and operating speed range. Accordingly, small engines experience greater loads in critical conditions than powerful ones. When the load on the engine increases, the temperature of its pistons also increases, and the amount of crankcase gases also increases. This leads to a general increase in temperature, including oil temperature.

It’s especially hard for small-displacement forced engines (for example, 1.2 TSI and others). In this case, the load is also supplemented by a turbine.

Additional factors

This includes high temperature control (operating temperature), poor ventilation of the engine crankcase (especially when driving in urban conditions), the use of low-quality or unsuitable oil for a given engine, the presence of dirt in the oil channels, a clogged oil filter, and the operating temperature range of the oil.

It is believed that the optimal engine oil change interval is from 200 to 400 operating hours under various operating conditions, with the exception of maximum load, including driving at maximum speed and maximum rpm.

The type of oil used is also of great importance - mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic. You can read about each of the mentioned types separately using the links provided.

Technological stages of replacement

To successfully change the oil in a VAZ 2109 engine, you need to stock up on consumables and tools. It is advisable to prepare in advance:

• filters (oil and air - it is better to change them in pairs);
• high-quality motor oil;
• a set of keys;
• a crab wrench for removing the filter or a thick screwdriver;
• container for collecting used lubricant;
• funnel for filling in new lubricant;
• rags.

5-liter plastic bottles in which water was previously stored are used for drainage. The funnel can be replaced by the cut off top of a plastic bottle. Care should be taken not to allow large amounts of old grease to get onto the open ground.

Old grease is drained

Before this stage, the engine warms up well (up to 80°C). The car is installed on an inspection pit, overpass, or lift. Craftsmen use several jacks to evenly lift the car. In such cases, the raised part of the vehicle must be securely fixed with stops.

The engine oil filler cap is unscrewed. This is recommended to speed up the process of draining the old fluid. The removed cover breaks the vacuum, the oil will flow freely.

Place a container under the drain hole. The plug is first torn off with a key set to “17”, then carefully unscrewed by hand. As soon as the first drops of old oil begin to ooze, the plug is unscrewed completely, pressing it against the thread. Then they sharply pull the hand with the stopper to the side to avoid getting the heated oil on exposed skin.

Changing the oil filter

After waiting for the old lubricant to completely flow out, screw the drain plug back in. After this, the oil filter is unscrewed. As a rule, this is done manually. In cases where the filter has become stuck, use a special removable key. Its absence is compensated by a thick screwdriver, which is used to pierce the filter and unscrew it with a lever movement.

After this, the filter is carefully, without fanatical effort, screwed onto the threaded rod. There is no need to use a key to secure the filter completely. You only need to press with your hands without unnecessary strain.

New engine lubricant is poured

A funnel is inserted into the open oil filler neck. The required amount of new lubricant is poured through it. This is done slowly so that the oil has time to pass through the neck of the funnel.

Wait 3–5 minutes, and then, using a dipstick, check the level of the freshly poured lubricant. It should rise above the minimum level. If there is not enough oil, then you need to add it a little.

The oil filler cap is screwed on. The engine starts. It is allowed to idle for several minutes

It is important to monitor the oil pressure warning light. It should go out after a certain time

Stop the engine and check the oil level again. The best option is for the grease to cover the dipstick just above the middle, stopping between the minimum and maximum marks. There is no need to add oil to the maximum. Excessive pressure places unnecessary stress on engine sealing parts.

Why do you need regular oil changes?

Indication on the dashboard

What can happen to a car if you don’t change the engine oil for a long time? To answer this question, you need to understand what functions it performs. Any oil consists of a so-called “base” and a certain amount of additives. They are the ones who protect engine parts.

During the operation of the machine, and even its parking, continuous chemical destruction of additives occurs. Naturally, this process is faster when driving. In this case, natural deposits form on the engine crankcase, oxidation processes occur with individual components of the oil, its viscosity and even the pH acidity level change. These facts are the answers to the question - why change the oil once a year at least.

Some automakers and motor oil manufacturers indicate how long it takes to change the engine oil not by mileage, but by frequency, usually by month.

And under significant load, the described processes in the oil occur at an even greater speed. Especially at high temperatures. However, modern manufacturers are constantly improving the technologies and chemical compositions of their oils. Therefore, they are able to withstand pollution and high temperatures for a long time.

In many modern cars, the ECU constantly monitors when to change the engine oil. Naturally, this decision is made on the basis of empirical methodology. It is based on actual data - average engine speed, oil and engine temperature, number of cold starts, speed limit, and so on. In addition, the program takes into account errors and technical tolerances. Therefore, the computer only reports an approximate time when the engine oil needs to be changed.

Unfortunately, on store shelves not only in the Russian Federation, but also in other CIS countries, a large number of low-quality or simply counterfeit motor oils are currently sold. And given that our fuel is often of poor quality, the frequency of oil changes still needs to be adjusted. In particular, if we talk about how many kilometers to change the engine oil, then the recommended amount should be reduced by about a third. That is, instead of the often recommended 10 thousand, change it after 7...7.5 thousand.

Change the oil AT LEAST once a year, regardless of whether you drive the car or not. In any case, the shelf life of engine oil is from six months to 1 year maximum.

We list the causes and consequences of untimely replacement of engine oil:

Engine deposits

• Formation of sediments . The reasons for this phenomenon lie in the process of destruction of additives or contamination of the oil with combustion products in the engine crankcase. The consequences are a significant decrease in engine power, an increase in the content of toxic substances in the exhaust gases, and their blackening.
• Significant engine wear . Reasons: oils lose their properties due to changes in the composition of additives.
• Increasing oil viscosity . This can happen for the same reasons. In particular, due to oxidation or disruption of polymerization of additives due to improper selection of oil. Problems arising from this include difficulties with oil circulation, significant wear of the engine and its individual elements. And the resulting oil starvation of the engine can lead to difficulties starting when cold; in critical cases, even engine failure is possible.
• Rotating the connecting rod bearings . This occurs due to the oil channel becoming clogged with a thickened compound. The smaller its cross-sectional area, the greater the loads the connecting rod bearings are subjected to. Because of this, they overheat and turn over.
• Significant wear of the turbocharger (if equipped). In particular. there is a high risk of damage to the rotor. It occurs because waste oil has a significant impact on the compressor shaft and bearings. As a result, they develop damage and scratches. In addition, dirty oil leads to clogging of the compressor lubrication channels, which can lead to it jamming.

Do not operate the machine with burnt and thickened oil. This exposes the motor to significant wear.

The problems described above are typical for vehicles operating in urban environments. After all, it is considered one of the most difficult for the engine. Below we present interesting factual data that were obtained experimentally. They will help you decide at what mileage to change the engine oil.

Results of experiments with oils

Specialists from the famous automobile magazine “Behind the Wheel” conducted six-month studies of several types of synthetic oils under operating conditions in city traffic jams (at idle speed). To do this, the engines operated for 120 hours (the equivalent of 10 thousand kilometers on the highway) at 800 rpm without cooling. As a result, interesting facts were obtained...

First, the viscosity of all motor oils during prolonged idling up to a certain (critical) moment is significantly less than when driving “on the highway”. This occurs due to the fact that at idle speed, exhaust gases and unburnt fuel leak into the engine crankcase, where it is all mixed with oil. In this case, there may be some (insignificant) amounts of oil in the fuel.

The drop in viscosity of motor oil is about 0.4...0.6 cSt (centistokes). This value is within 5...6% of the average level. That is, the viscosity is within normal limits. However, this only happens up to a certain point.

Clean and used motor oils

At approximately 70...100 engine hours (each oil is different, but the trend is the same for all), the viscosity begins to increase sharply. And much faster than when working in the “track” mode. The reasons for this are as follows. The oil is constantly in contact with the products of incomplete combustion (as discussed above), and reaches its critical saturation. The mentioned products have a certain acidity, which is transferred to the oil. Also affected is the lack of ventilation and low turbulence of the air-fuel mixture due to the fact that the piston moves relatively slowly. Because of this, the rate of fuel combustion is lower than average, and the entry of exhaust gases into the crankcase is maximum.

The widespread belief that a large amount of dirt forms in the engine when idling has not been experimentally confirmed. However, the amount of high-temperature deposits was small, and the amount of low-temperature deposits was large.

As for wear products, their amount is significantly greater in oil used in the “plug” mode than in the one that was used on the “highway”. The reason for this is the low speed of the pistons, as well as the high operating temperature of the oil (lack of ventilation). As for waste, each oil behaves differently. However, it can be argued that due to high operating temperatures and increased density, waste will also increase.

Based on the information provided, we will try to systematize the data and answer the question of how many kilometers to change the engine oil.

Methods for flushing the motor before filling with fresh lubricant

Power units running to the extreme state are subject to disassembly and manual washing. There are flushing liquids for cleaning other starters. Before flushing your engine before changing the oil, there are several methods to consider:

• Diesel fuel. An old method that causes a lot of controversy. After draining the waste, you need to pour 2 liters of diesel fuel into the engine crankcase, wait 5-10 minutes and drain it through the drain hole. After this, it is necessary to prepare a cleaning solution in the ratio of 2 liters of diesel fuel and 2 liters of oil. You can use any inexpensive synthetic oil. The prepared mixture is filled with the engine lubrication system. The engine must be started and allowed to run for 5 minutes.
• Solution for 5 minutes. Sold ready-made. The name of the solution determines the method of its use. The solution is based on fuel diluted with solvents with aggressive additives. Before draining the old lubricant, the solution is poured into the lubrication system. The engine starts and runs for five minutes. According to reviews from car enthusiasts, this method cleans the power plant well, but has a negative effect on the sealing elements.
• Special flushing fluids. They are produced on the basis of mineral lubricants with the addition of cleaning additives. The solution is poured into the lubrication system of the power unit. After filling, you need to drive the car about 100 km and replace the lubricant. The disadvantage of this method is the presence of a residue of the old mixture (about 300 g) in the lubrication system.
• Automotive flushing oil. A special oil solution is used to clean the engine. You can choose any inexpensive brand. It is recommended to clean twice. The first time, you can mix the washing solution with oil in half, pour it into the engine and let it run for 15-20 minutes. Fill the flushing lubricant a second time and drive the car for about 200 km. After this, drain the waste and fill the system with a new oil solution. The advantage of this method is that after draining the waste, lubricant remains in the lubrication system, and not the flushing mass. This preserves the characteristics of the new oil solution.

Recommendations for changing engine oil

Next, we will dwell in more detail on the question of how often to change the engine oil. As stated above, car manufacturers' recommendations should be taken with a grain of salt. Don't completely ignore them, but make your own amendments. If you drive your car only in city conditions (statistically, this is the majority of car owners), this means that the oil is used under heavy duty conditions. Remember that the less oil in the crankcase, the faster it ages. Therefore, its optimal level is slightly below the maximum mark on the indicator dipstick.

We wrote above that it is better to calculate the frequency of oil changes based on engine hours. However, the complexity of this technique lies in the fact that sometimes it is difficult to convert kilometers into engine hours and get an answer based on this information. Let's take a closer look at two methods that allow us to empirically, but quite accurately, calculate how often to change synthetic (and other) engine oil. To do this, your car must have an ECU that shows the average speed and fuel consumption over the last at least one thousand kilometers (the longer the mileage, the more accurate the calculations will be).

So, method one (calculation by speed). To do this, you need to know the average speed of your car over the last few thousand kilometers and the car manufacturer's recommendations at what mileage you need to change the oil. For example, the mileage before an oil change is 15 thousand kilometers, and the average speed in the city is 29.5 km/h.

Accordingly, to calculate the number of engine hours, you need to divide the distance by the speed. In our case it will be 15000 / 29.5 = 508 engine hours. That is, it turns out that in order to change the oil under these conditions, it is necessary to use a composition with a service life of 508 engine hours. However, in reality, such oils simply do not exist today.

We offer you a table showing the types of motor oils and their corresponding engine hour values ​​according to API (American Petroleum Institute):

Let's assume that the car engine is filled with SM/SN class oil, which has a working life of 350 hours. To calculate the mileage, you need to multiply 350 engine hours by the average speed of 29.5 km/h. As a result, we get 10325 km. As you can see, this mileage is very different from what the automaker offers us. And if the average speed is 21.5 km/h (which is more typical for large cities, taking into account traffic jams and downtime), then with the same 350 engine hours we will get 7525 km of mileage! Now it becomes clearly clear why it is necessary to divide the mileage recommended by the car manufacturer by 1.5...2 times.

Another calculation method is based on the amount of fuel consumed. As initial data, you need to know how much fuel your car consumes per 100 km according to its passport, as well as this actual value. It can be taken from the same ECU. Let’s assume that according to the passport the car “takes” 8 l/100 km, but in fact – 10.6 l/100 km. The mileage for replacement remains the same - 15,000 km. Let's derive the proportion and find out how much the car should theoretically spend to cover 15,000 km: 15,000 km * 8 liters / 100 km = 1200 liters. Now let's make similar calculations for actual data: 15000 * 10.6 / 100 = 1590 liters.

Now we need to calculate at what distance the actual oil change needs to be done (that is, how long the car will travel on a theoretical 1200 liters of fuel). Let's use a similar proportion: 1200 liters * 15000 km / 1590 liters = 11320 km.

We present for you an electronic calculator that will allow you to calculate the actual mileage before an oil change using the following data: theoretical fuel consumption per 100 km, actual fuel consumption per 100 km, theoretical distance to an oil change in kilometers:

However, the simplest and most effective method of checking is a visual inspection of the condition of the oil. To do this, do not be lazy to periodically open the hood and check whether the oil has thickened or burned. Its condition can be assessed visually. If you see that oil is dripping from the dipstick like water, then this is a sure sign that the oil needs to be changed. Another interesting method of checking is by spreading the composition over a napkin. Very thin oil will form a large and runny stain, which will tell you that it is time to change the fluid. If this is the case, immediately go to a car service center or carry out the procedure yourself.

A little about oil

Before you begin the replacement procedure, you need to find out what and in what quantity should be filled.

In VAZ 2109 cars (1.5L engines) usually fill from 3 to 3.5 liters of oil. At the same time, we recommend buying a standard 4 liter canister so that you have something to add during operation.

Check the oil level periodically with a dipstick. It is optimal for a trace of oil to remain on the dipstick between the maximum and minimum marks. Golden mean. It’s not worth filling above the maximum level, just like driving with a level below the minimum.

We have decided on the volume of oil. What exactly should it be?

The most important thing in disputes about motor oils: we will not name brands or viscosities. Let's just say that the oil must NOT be fake and comply with the car manufacturer's approval. For VAZ it is ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4, or API SJ, SL, SM, SN. Please note that API certification is required only for the USA, but if it is assigned to the oil you have chosen, you can buy with confidence.

Experience shows that VAZ engines run on semi-synthetic for a long time. The initial requirements of the manufacturer are mineral water, because... The motor was developed a very long time ago. Semi-synthetic oils are very suitable, do not leak through oil seals and seals, and are not consumed.

In terms of viscosity, VAZ engines run great all year round on 5w40 oil. If you wish or need to start it in frosts below -35 degrees, you can fill it with 0w40, and in the summer, on the contrary, 10w40.

Do not mix different brands of oil under any circumstances, and when replacing, first flush the system with a flushing compound, and then fill in new fluid.

Suitable accessories:

Original semi-synthetic motor oil Castrol “Vecton 10W-40” (5 l) article number - 15724A. The price of such a canister is about 1,500 rubles. The original oil filter for the Lada engine is 21080101200508. Its estimated cost is 180 rubles. Analogues: BM FO2108 – 140 rubles, JS Asakashi C0065 – 150 rubles.

How often to change the oil in a diesel engine

As for diesel engines, the same calculation logic applies here as for gasoline units. It is only necessary to take into account that the working fluid in them is exposed to greater external influences. As a result, diesel oil needs to be changed a little more often. In addition, domestic diesel fuel has a high sulfur content, which has a detrimental effect on the car engine.

Regarding the readings given by the car manufacturer (this is especially true for Western manufacturers), they, similar to gasoline engines, must be divided by 1.5...2 times. This applies to cars, as well as vans and small trucks.

As a rule, most domestic car owners of cars with diesel engines change the oil every 7...10 thousand kilometers, depending on the car and the oil used.

In theory, oil selection is based on the total base number (TBN). It measures the amount of active anti-corrosion additives in the oil and indicates the tendency of their compositions to form deposits. The higher the number, the greater the oil’s ability to neutralize acidic and aggressive products formed during oxidation. For diesel engines, TBN is in the range of 11...14 units.

The second important number characterizing the oil is the total acid number (TAN). It characterizes the presence of products in the oil that provoke an increase in corrosion and wear rate of various friction pairs in a car engine.

However, before deciding how many engine hours to change the oil in an engine running on diesel fuel, you need to understand one nuance. In particular, is it possible to use motor oils with a low base number (TBN) in countries with low-quality fuel (in particular, Russian, which contains a large amount of sulfur)? During the operation of the engine, and, accordingly, the oil, the alkaline number drops, and the acid number increases. Therefore it is logical to assume. that the intersection of their graphs at a certain mileage of the car tells us that the oil has completely exhausted its service life, and its further use only destroys the engine. We present to your attention test graphs for four types of oils with different acid and base numbers. For the experiment, four types of oils were taken with conventional names of letters of the English alphabet:

• oil A - 5W30 (TBN 6.5);
• oil B - 5W30 (TBN 9.3);
• oil C - 10W30 (TBN 12);
• oil D - 5W30 (TBN 9.2).

As can be seen from the graph, the test results were as follows:

• oil A - 5W30 (TBN 6.5) - was completely used up after 7000 km;
• oil B - 5W30 (TBN 9.3) - was completely used up after 11,500 km;
• oil C - 10W30 (TBN 12) - was completely used up after 18,000 km;
• oil D - 5W30 (TBN 9.2) - was completely used up after 11,500 km.

That is, the oil for heavily loaded diesel engines turned out to be the most durable. What conclusions can be drawn based on the information provided:

1. A high base number (TBN) is critical for those regions where diesel fuel of poor quality (in particular, with high S impurities) is sold. Using this oil will provide you with longer and safer engine operation.
2. If you are confident in the quality of the fuel you use, then it will be enough for you to use oils with a TBN value in the region of 11...12.
3. Similar reasoning is valid for gasoline engines. It is better to fill in oils with TBN = 8...10. This will give you the opportunity to change the oil less often. If you use oil with TBN = 6...7, then in this case be prepared to change the fluid more often.

For general reasons, it is worth adding that diesel engines need to change oil a little more often than gasoline engines. And it is worth choosing it based on the value of the total acid and alkaline numbers.

conclusions

Thus, each car owner must decide for himself how often to change the engine oil. This must be done taking into account individual circumstances. We recommend that you use the calculation methods for engine hours and gasoline consumption given above (including calculators). In addition, always visually assess the condition of the oil in the engine crankcase. This way you will significantly reduce the wear and tear on your car’s engine, which will save you from the need to carry out expensive repairs. Also, when replacing, buy high-quality oils recommended by the manufacturer.

Stages of replacing lubricant VAZ 2107

On classic Lada cars or the more familiar Zhiguli, a convenient drainage of used oil from the engine is provided. The oil filter is also easily accessible and can be reached from the engine compartment.

During the production of the VAZ 2107, a large number of modifications were produced, which were equipped with various engines. Experienced drivers note good maintainability, unpretentiousness in maintenance, as well as consumables.

Before starting to replace the lubricant, precautions should be taken. Please note that the drained waste will be at a high temperature.

Since the replacement is carried out on a warm engine.

Draining waste fluid

Before starting the draining procedure, you should prepare tools, empty containers, as well as new liquids for subsequent filling. If additional protection is installed under the engine, it can also be removed for convenience.

Next, we perform the procedure for draining the liquid from the VAZ 2107:

1. We lift the hood, under it we find the filler neck on the engine and unscrew the plug (Fig. 1).

To unscrew the filter element, it is advisable to have a special puller. If it is not available, you can try to unscrew the filter using improvised means. In this case, you can use, for example, an old alternator belt, a regular belt, a bicycle chain or a simple screwdriver.

Using this method, you can drain the maximum amount of used oil, after which you can proceed to further actions. The main thing is not to forget, everything that we unscrewed must be put back in place.

Flushing the lubrication system

Flushing the engine on a VAZ 2107 should be carried out only in exceptional cases, which include:

1. Purchasing a used car when you cannot know about the quality, as well as the regularity of lubricant replacements.
2. During operation, the service replacement interval was repeatedly exceeded.
3. Engine operation with constant frequent overheating, which contributes to coking and other deposits.
4. In cases of switching to another type, for example from synthetics to semi-synthetics.

There are several types of flushes for the VAZ 2107 engine:

• Five- or seven-minute, capable of cleaning even the most difficult deposits. They must be used very carefully and strictly follow the instructions printed on the packaging. It is recommended to use them only when absolutely necessary. Since there is a high probability of causing premature wear of the sealing seals. And also clog the oil channels with particles of washed away carbon deposits.
• Special compounds that are added to the oil several hundred kilometers before the expected change. They are more gentle, but there is also a possibility of clogging of the oil channels.
• Flushing oil is the most gentle method of cleaning the engine from the inside. This composition is poured after draining the waste, the engine runs for 15-20 minutes, after which the liquid with deposits is drained. The absence of aggressive additives in the wash composition gently cleans the engine, but is not able to remove heavy contaminants.
• Regular oil that you are going to use when changing. This method is not so popular due to its high price.

Installing a filter, filling in new engine fluid

If the VAZ 2107 lubrication system is sealed and does not require repair work to eliminate leaks, you can proceed to adding fresh engine oil. In addition to the oil itself, we may need a new drain plug, its part number 14325301. As well as the original oil filter 2101-1012005.

When everything is ready, let's move on to the bay:

1. Replace the drain plug and replace it with a new one if necessary.
2. We tighten and put the oil filter in place. Pre-lubricate the rubber sealing ring with fresh oil.
3. Pour new oil into the filler neck.
4. We check the level on the dipstick; it should be between the MIN and MAX marks.
5. We start the engine, let it run for 10-15 seconds, then turn it off.
6. After 5 minutes, check the level with a dipstick and top up if necessary.

How much and what kind of oil is needed for the VAZ 2109

To successfully change the oil in all types of VAZ 2109 engines, you will need 3.5 liters of new lubricant, although in practice 3.3 liters is enough.

When answering the question of what kind of oil should be poured into the engine, it should be taken into account that the engine was initially designed for mineral oils, but since their use is limited by the viscosity range, “mineral oil” cannot be used year-round. Fortunately, synthetic and semi-synthetic oils have replaced them. Taking into account the dispersion of seasonal temperatures, the most optimal lubricants for the VAZ 2109 will be those corresponding to the following parameters according to SAE: 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40.

The manufacturer also recommends the following brands of oils, both domestic and foreign: Rexol Universal 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-30, 20W-40, Rexol Super 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-40, Angrol 10W-30, Shell Super Plus 10W-40, 15W-40, Esso Ultra Oil X 10W-40, Esso Super Oil X 15W-40.

Technological stages of replacement

To successfully change the oil in a VAZ 2109 engine, you need to stock up on consumables and tools. It is advisable to prepare in advance:

Old grease is drained

Before this stage, the engine warms up well (up to 80°C). The car is installed on an inspection pit, overpass, or lift. Craftsmen use several jacks to evenly lift the car. In such cases, the raised part of the vehicle must be securely fixed with stops.

The engine oil filler cap is unscrewed. This is recommended to speed up the process of draining the old fluid. The removed cover breaks the vacuum, the oil will flow freely.

Place a container under the drain hole. The plug is first torn off with a key set to “17”, then carefully unscrewed by hand. As soon as the first drops of old oil begin to ooze, the plug is unscrewed completely, pressing it against the thread. Then they sharply pull the hand with the stopper to the side to avoid getting the heated oil on exposed skin.

Changing the oil filter

After waiting for the old lubricant to completely flow out, screw the drain plug back in. After this, the oil filter is unscrewed. As a rule, this is done manually. In cases where the filter has become stuck, use a special removable key. Its absence is compensated by a thick screwdriver, which is used to pierce the filter and unscrew it with a lever movement.

The new filter is filled halfway with fresh lubricant. This will prevent the effect of oil starvation the next time you start the engine. The rubber sealing gasket is lubricated with a new substance.

After this, the filter is carefully, without fanatical effort, screwed onto the threaded rod. There is no need to use a key to secure the filter completely. You only need to press with your hands without unnecessary strain.

New engine lubricant is poured

A funnel is inserted into the open oil filler neck. The required amount of new lubricant is poured through it. This is done slowly so that the oil has time to pass through the neck of the funnel.

Wait 3–5 minutes, and then, using a dipstick, check the level of the freshly poured lubricant. It should rise above the minimum level. If there is not enough oil, then you need to add it a little.

The oil filler cap is screwed on. The engine starts. It is allowed to idle for several minutes

It is important to monitor the oil pressure warning light. It should go out after a certain time

Stop the engine and check the oil level again. The best option is for the grease to cover the dipstick just above the middle, stopping between the minimum and maximum marks. There is no need to add oil to the maximum. Excessive pressure places unnecessary stress on engine sealing parts.