Replacing stove pipes on a VAZ 2114 - installing stove pipes

Replacing the tap

To replace the faulty faucet of the VAZ-2114 stove, we will need 10/13 wrenches (socket ones will work much more conveniently), rags, a Phillips-head screwdriver, and a container for draining the coolant. Dismantling algorithm:

• we drive the car onto an overpass/inspection hole, place a prepared container with a capacity of about 5 liters under the drain hole, unscrew the plug and wait until all the antifreeze is drained;

We look in the engine compartment for the pipes connecting the power unit to the tap, use a screwdriver to loosen the fastenings in the form of clamps, and remove the pipes;

• go to the interior, unscrew the screws that secure the left panel cover;

• on the right side under the panel we find the heater tap, to which the pipes from the engine compartment are connected, put a rag under them and use a screwdriver to remove both pipes;
• go back to the engine compartment, find the studs on which the faucet is attached to the car body, unscrew the bolts with a 10mm wrench;
• now nothing is holding the crane, we go into the interior and pull it out, disconnecting the drive fastening cable;

• We attach the cable to the new tap, install it in its original place and reassemble it in the reverse order.

Stove tap repair

VAZ heater valve

The heater tap (see photo above) is designed to regulate the flow of coolant through the heater radiator. On VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 models the same heater faucet is installed. The main failures of the stove tap are oxidation, jamming, leakage, which results in a puddle of coolant appearing under your feet.

Why is the faucet leaking?

• With the onset of spring, we close the heater tap and move the regulator to the extreme position.
• From spring to autumn, we don’t use it, so the faucet turns sour.
• In winter, we open the tap again, turn on the stove, and as a result the tap flows.
• In this case, it must be replaced.
• In addition to replacing the faucet itself, it is recommended to replace the cabin filter in the fall because... it becomes clogged with leaves and the air flow weakens.

Which faucet to choose

In the spare parts store you can see three heater taps:

• Ceramic
• Factory (standard)
• Ball

• The body of a ceramic faucet is ordinary plastic, but the locking mechanism consists of two ceramic plates.
• Factory cost from 80 to 100 rubles. The operating principle of which is based on a rubber membrane. As practice shows, it is not reliable, subject to acidification and is installed only if there is nothing better at hand.
• Let's move on - ball valve. Its operating principle is based on a ball with holes instead of a membrane, as in the second option. This specimen is subject to oxidation, but is much more reliable than a factory faucet.
• The ceramic faucet is the most reliable of all of the above; we recommend installing it to avoid unnecessary problems.
• The only drawback is the reduced throughput of the ceramic faucet, which reduces heat transfer. It turns out: the most reliable faucet is a ceramic one, but the heating weakens when using it.

Where is the stove valve located?

The heater valve is located under the console (in the center). Remove the side panel near the passenger's feet. Two pipes lead to it. To change the heater tap you do not need to drain the antifreeze or remove the dashboard. But in this case, you have to lie head down and do some of the work by touch.. To change the heater tap you will need:

• New heater tap
• Crosshead screwdriver
• Clamp 16x23mm
• Capacity 5L or more
• Coolant
• Key to "10"
• Rags

Replacing pipes

As a rule, when replacing a faucet or heater radiator, all pipes are replaced, especially if they have been in place for a very long time and have not been replaced before. The operation of replacing the pipes of the VAZ-2114 stove will also be required if one of the pipes is damaged. Unfortunately, in the latter case, you will have to complete all steps from 1 to 25 described in the instructions for replacing the heating radiator. After access to the radiator and tap has been opened, loosen all the clamps and carefully remove all four pipes. They can stick to the seats, so you need to work very carefully so as not to damage nearby nodes or injure your hands.

Installing new pipes, as a rule, does not cause much difficulty, but you should not immediately tighten the clamps to working condition. First, we reassemble in the reverse order, fill in fresh antifreeze, start the engine and let it run for 15–20 minutes to check for coolant leaks. After the engine is turned off and cools down a little, you can tighten the clamps until they are fully tightened.

Necessary tool

Difficulties that may arise when performing work are associated only with the inconvenient location of the faucet. Otherwise, the replacement process will not cause problems. Before starting work, prepare the following tools and materials:

• Pliers for removing stuck pipes;
• Flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• New heater valve for VAZ 2114;
• A rag for cleaning up smudges and a small container for draining antifreeze;
• Canister with new antifreeze for topping up;
• A set of wrenches (wrenches 10 and 13 are useful).

To simplify the work, drain the antifreeze from the car radiator in advance. Next, proceed to study the instructions on how to replace the stove tap with your own hands.

Repair/replacement of resistor

A faulty resistor may be indicated by the fan operating in one mode, when manipulations with the switch do not affect its blowing speed. To replace the resistor, you need to prepare a screwdriver with a Phillips head, fine-grain sandpaper and a multimeter. Algorithm of actions:

• disconnect the negative terminal of the battery;
• unscrew the screws that secure the right console cover;
• Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the right cover of the center console;
• you will have access to the resistor, from which you need to disconnect all the wiring and evaluate the contacts for burning. If the contact surface is oxidized, use sandpaper to clean it down to metal;

• It may well be that the resistor has lost its functionality precisely due to burning/oxidation of the contacts, so we assemble everything in the reverse order and check whether the fan will work in all normal modes;
• in case of a negative result, again remove the negative terminal, the panel cover and unscrew the screw that secures the resistor to the body;
• We remove the resistor and use a multimeter to measure the resistance at the resistor inputs and at the inputs of both windings. In the latter case, the indicator indicating the working condition of the additional elements is 0.2 Ohm. For the entire resistor, the standard resistance should be 0.8 ohms. If the multimeter readings do not match the specified values, replace the resistor with a new one, and then reassemble in the reverse order.

Diagnosis of stove malfunctions

The design of the stove is quite simple. It would seem that there is nothing to break here. The heater cannot break down completely, since its design consists of components independent from each other. However, some elements can fail quite often. These include:

• radiator;
• tap;
• pipes;
• resistor;
• mode switch.

Heater radiator malfunctions

The main reasons for the failure of the stove radiator:

• clogging;
• the appearance of a leak (depressurization).

In the first case, deposits accumulate on the inner walls of the radiator tubes. They can form as a result of:

• long-term operation of the radiator;
• use of low-quality coolant;
• getting dirt, friction products, water, etc. into the cooling system.

As a result, the circulation of antifreeze in the heater radiator is disrupted or completely stopped, and the air entering the cabin does not have time to heat up normally. In winter, it will be cold inside the car, and defrosting the windshield will become a real problem.

A leak in the radiator can appear as a result of corrosion and drying out. Coolant leaking from the heater usually forms a puddle on the floor under the panel on the passenger side. In addition, a characteristic odor will appear in the cabin, and an oily coating will form on the windshield due to evaporation of the coolant, reducing the driver’s visibility. The latter is especially true when driving against the sun or at night, when oncoming traffic is moving with its headlights on.

Stove tap leaking

The stove valve may fail for two reasons:

• souring of the locking mechanism;
• drying out of the device casing.

If the stove has not been used for a long time, the tap may become sour. In this case, when trying to open the tap, you should not use much force, as you can damage the tap itself or break the control cable.

When the housing dries out, the leak may not be immediately noticeable. But after some time, signs similar to those of a radiator leak will appear (a puddle of coolant on the floor, a pungent odor in the cabin, an oily coating on the windshield).

If the heater valve is faulty, coolant begins to leak into the cabin.

Wear of pipes

Antifreeze from the heater radiator may begin to leak through the inlet and outlet pipes as a result of their wear under the influence of chemically active substances included in the coolant and high temperature. In addition, the pipes can be damaged if the clamps that ensure the tightness of the connections are over-tightened.

There are a total of four pipes in the heating system of the VAZ 2113–15 - two in the engine compartment, connecting the engine to the tap, and two in the cabin, going from the tap to the heater radiator. Coolant leakage can occur in different ways. In one case, the antifreeze will flow onto the engine protection and onto the street, in the other - into the car interior. In any case, it will appear as:

• drop in coolant level in the expansion tank;
• puddles forming under the car or in the cabin;
• the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the cabin.

If the heater pipes are damaged, coolant may begin to leak into the passenger compartment.

Resistor failure

The stove resistor consists of two windings and serves to change the resistance of the electric current supplied to the fan. The fan motor can operate in three modes, which can be changed using a switch.

In the third mode, the fan is supplied with a voltage equal to the voltage of the on-board network, and it operates at full power. When the second mode is turned on, the voltage decreases due to one of the windings, the resistance of which increases to approximately 0.2 Ohms. The fan begins to rotate noticeably slower. And finally, in the first mode, the resistance of the windings increases to 0.8 Ohms, and the power of the electric motor is reduced to a minimum.

The main sign of resistor failure is the fan operating only in the third mode. The reason for this is the burnout of one or both windings.

If the resistor fails, the stove operates in only one mode

Switch failure

The cause of a non-working interior heater can only be determined after checking each of its elements. Sometimes the stove mode switch itself may fail. This occurs quite rarely as a result of oxidation or destruction of its contacts.

Use the switch to change the fan speed

Switch replacement

If, after repairing or replacing the heater resistor, the fan continues to show signs of life in only one mode, regardless of the position of the switch, it is necessary to check the functionality of the latter. To do this, we again need a screwdriver, as well as scissors (or fairly powerful tweezers). Work order:

• remove the negative terminal from the battery;
• unscrew the 4 screws that secure the right panel cover;
• remove from the slots and pull out the switch by pulling it towards you;
• Using scissors, tweezers or another suitable tool, unscrew the nut that holds the switch;

• on the right side of the console, remove the switch, identifying and disconnecting all connectors from it;
• inspect the contacts for scale, rust or other defects, clean them with fine sandpaper;
• We install the switch in place, connect the terminal and check its operation. If there is no effect, the switch must be replaced with a new one.

If you perform any of these operations for the first time, it may take a lot of time, but you can save on buying extra spare parts and gain invaluable experience in replacing a VAZ-2114 stove. It is worth noting that for VAZ 2112 - 2115 models there are no fundamental differences in the repair or replacement of heating system parts.

Main causes of malfunction

There can be several reasons for such problems, but the most common are:

1. Worn or damaged pipes.
2. Incorrect connection of pipes.
3. Broken stove tap.
4. Radiator failure.

The first of these reasons - wear of pipes - can occur for natural reasons during operation, since the chemicals contained in coolants have a corrosive effect, which is complemented by the influence of high temperature.

In addition, the hoses of the VAZ 2114 stove can be easily damaged by over-tightening the clamps on them. When such damage occurs, fluid leaks from the system.

In total, VAZ 2114 cars have 4 pipes. Two of them are located under the hood and two in the cabin.

Their damage, which led to a coolant leak, can be judged by the following indirect signs:

• there is a constant drop in the liquid level;
• a specific smell appeared in the cabin;
• A puddle of coolant forms under the car or in the passenger compartment while parked.

If at least one of these signs is observed, then urgent diagnostics of the pipes should be carried out and their replacement.

Tightening the clamps on the pipes should be done with medium force. Over-tightening may damage them.

Is it possible to replace the radiator of a VAZ-2114 stove without removing the control panel

With the onset of autumn cold weather, many owners of VAZ cars complain that the interior heating works very poorly and does not provide a comfortable temperature.
There are many reasons for this problem, but the most basic of them is a clogged stove radiator, which gets dust, small stones, poplar fluff, etc. How to determine that this is the case? Diagnostics is quite simple - you just need to put your hand on the supply and discharge pipes of the device for a few seconds. If their temperature is noticeably different (the inlet pipe is hot and the outlet pipe is cold), then you will need to replace the radiator of the VAZ-2114 heater. Otherwise, you should pay attention to such details as the temperature sensor (thermostat), pump impeller and others.

Design and reasons for replacing the stove radiator

The VAZ 2114 stove radiator has a simple but durable design. Its core consists of two rows of aluminum tubes and transverse thin metal plates that form a honeycomb. This ensures heat accumulation in the core. The ends of the tubes are flared in end plates and sealed with special materials. This ensures a tight fit of the mating surfaces. Three plastic tanks are welded to the ends of the core. Two tanks on one side are connected to the cooling system, and the third - on the opposite side - circulates antifreeze in the radiator.

The service life of the heater radiator is noticeably less than the service life of the car. Usually tubes, pipes, tanks begin to leak, or the core becomes clogged. For the VAZ 2114, heater radiators manufactured by DAAZ, Luzar, Pramo, Fenox, etc. are suitable, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

How to remove a stove radiator

The process of dismantling the heater radiator on VAZ-2114 cars can be carried out in two main ways. The first involves removing the entire control panel, as well as other elements surrounding the part being replaced. We recommend carrying out repairs in this way only if you have the appropriate experience and are completely confident that after completion of the work there will be no “extra” components left. No such confidence? Then it is better to contact a car service or carry out repairs in a simpler way, which we will describe below.

It does not require dismantling the torpedo, but to perform repairs in this way you will definitely need an assistant. Work is carried out in the following order:

• remove the console and glove compartment;
• unscrew the bolts and screws that hold the front panel so that it moves freely in different directions;
• remove the cables for controlling the operating modes of the stove, which are located on the driver’s and passenger’s sides;
• remove the radiator cap;
• dismantle the rubber radiator pipes. It is advisable to first place a basin or other container under the device so as not to spill antifreeze on the floor;
• We hire an assistant. His task will be to carefully move the torpedo to the side, which will allow the radiator to be removed. In this case, you need to be extremely careful not to break anything or tear out the front panel of the car by the roots.

Purpose, location and design of the VAZ 2113–15 stove

Unlike classic Zhiguli models, the VAZ 2113–15 stove copes with its duties quite well. If it is in good working order, the inside of the car will always be warm. The air flow distribution system is also implemented quite well, so the windshield, even in severe frost, is completely cleared of ice in a few minutes.

Purpose of the heater

The main function of the stove is to heat the interior and windshield. Hot air supplied through the duct system to the windshield prevents it from freezing in winter. In the warm season, the stove is used for forced ventilation of the interior.

Location and design of the stove

The VAZ 2113–15 stove is located in the front part of the cabin under the center console of the dashboard. Only the heater controls and deflectors through which air flows are brought into the cabin.

The interior heater of the VAZ 2113–15 is closed by the center console

The stove consists of the following elements:

• casing;
• radiator;
• tap;
• inlet and outlet pipes;
• electric motor with a cylindrical impeller;
• windshield defroster;
• control valve;
• foot air damper;
• control module (mode switch, resistor, damper control levers).

Operating principle of the stove

The operation of the stove is based on heat exchange between the heated coolant (coolant) and the air entering the cabin. The basis of the design is the radiator. It is a system of tubes within which heated coolant supplied from the power unit circulates. The tubes are equipped with thin lamellas, allowing for more efficient heat transfer to the air.

The radiator is covered by a casing, which is the body of the stove. On one side there is an electric fan that pumps air into the device. By varying the fan rotation speed with a switch that changes the resistance of a special resistor and located on the central panel, you can regulate the intensity of the air flow entering the cabin.

Circulating between the radiator lamellas, the air heats up and enters the passenger compartment through air ducts located in the front part of the heater. The distribution of flows is carried out using three dampers, one of which (control) regulates (opens or closes) the flow of air into the cabin, and the other two (air blowing for the legs and windshield) change its direction.

The basis of the design of the interior heater is the radiator

Features of installing a new radiator

Installation of a new radiator and assembly of the car is carried out in the reverse order. At this stage, it is important not to accidentally lose the panel fasteners, and also to follow the rules listed below:

• It is better to install new clamps on the radiator pipes, which will ensure complete tightness of the heating system;
• It is advisable to lubricate the outlet and inlet fittings of the device with soap or some detergents to simplify the installation of the pipes, as well as improve their fit to the fittings;
• The central pillars of the panel need to be secured especially well, since they are responsible for the main functions of driving the car;
• after the panel is installed and secured, you need to check that the cable settings are correct, and also make sure that the faucet and valves are open to the proper level;
• When filling the system with coolant, you need to make sure that there is no air in it. After the antifreeze level has been restored, be sure to start the engine and make sure that the pipes and their connections to the radiator are tight.

If you follow all these rules, you will be able to ensure the perfect operation of the heater in your car, as well as minimize the risks of its repeated failure due to clogging of the system.

How much does it cost to replace a radiator at a car service? The price for this service is quite high, since specialists usually remove the control panel, which takes much more time and requires considerable effort. Using the method described above, you can replace the part yourself and save money.

Which heater tap to choose?

When an old part wears out, it is logical to purchase a modified version of it to prevent problems in the future. Regulator options with metal and ceramic parts are now available for sale. They are more durable and resistant to temperature. Let's consider several options:

• A modified spare part from AvtoVAZ with article number 21080-810115000 is available in stores at prices ranging from 180 to 250 rubles . Low price, presence of metal elements, average quality;
• A ceramic faucet from Luzar with article number 2108-8101150 is sold at a price of 300 to 500 rubles . High quality, ceramic elements, average price;
• The Tsn-Citron company, with article number 8.5.2, offers a budget option for 170 rubles. Medium quality. There are metal elements.

We recommend that you do not save on purchasing a new element of the heating system, because... its unexpected failure will bring a lot of problems.

Replacing the heater valve VAZ-2114

We drive onto a pit or overpass. We put the car on the handbrake and first gear. Drain the coolant into the prepared container. To do this, first, with the expansion tank cap closed, unscrew the drain plug on the engine cylinder block (if the tank cap is sealed and tightly screwed, then antifreeze will hardly flow). Then, instead of the drain plug, we screw in a hose (from a mixer works well) and open the reservoir cap - the coolant flows neatly into the container with minimal losses and without getting dirty on the engine.

We loosen the clamps of the pipes going to the valve from the engine. From the engine side, use a metal brush to clean the threads of the 2 bolts securing the faucet to the engine compartment bulkhead. Then we conscientiously treat these threads with WD-40 or brake fluid. This is a mandatory condition, failure to comply with which can lead to serious difficulties when unscrewing the nuts. We leave the dirt and rust on the threads to “acidify” and do not tighten the nuts yet.

We remove the pipes. Let's go to the salon. We dismantle the side trim of the torpedo in the middle at the feet on the passenger side. Loosen the clamps of the pipes at the tap. We prepare a rag to collect a small amount of antifreeze that may leak onto the carpet when removing the pipes. Disconnect the pipes. We return under the car. Using a 10mm wrench (socket or socket), unscrew the nuts of the faucet mounting bolts.

Work order

Replacing the radiator of a VAZ-2114 stove without removing the dashboard allows you to save time, and this does not require any special skills. Let’s immediately make a reservation that part of the torpedo will still have to be disassembled, but the center console will remain in place, and this is the most labor-intensive part of the operation. At the initial stage of work, the side part of the panel on the passenger side is removed; to do this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing it.

To drain the coolant, you need to unscrew the bolts of the front protection, which is located under the engine compartment. The antifreeze is drained through a special plug located in the cylinder block; to unscrew it, you will need a 13 mm spanner. To prevent it from spilling on the ground or the garage floor, a container is placed under the car. To increase the rate at which antifreeze flows out, you can open the cap of the expansion tank.

Using a hexagon on the passenger side, the torpedo mount is unscrewed, after which it can be easily bent.

Next, you need to unscrew another fastener, located on the passenger side under the lower part of the center console. After this, the torpedo can be easily raised so that it remains in the same position, a stop of suitable length can be installed under it; a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and a length of about 40 cm is enough.

In the opened space you can see the heater radiator, which is attached to three self-tapping screws. They must be unscrewed so that it can be safely removed from the socket. In this case, a problem will arise - another self-tapping screw is hidden behind the plastic body of the torpedo, which needs to be unscrewed. To get to it, it is advisable to drill a small hole in the plastic through which you can insert a screwdriver. To do this, you first need to remove the glove compartment. If you try to move the torpedo, you can break the plastic and then removing the heater radiator on a VAZ-2114 will turn into an expensive procedure.

Next, you can proceed directly to dismantling the heater radiator. To do this, remove the clamps and disconnect the pipes, under which it is better to place a small container or rag, since there is still antifreeze in the system, which will spill directly into the cabin. After this, the radiator is removed from the mounting socket without any effort. It is advisable to examine it to see where the damage was and where the antifreeze is leaking from; corrosion damage appears in this place and streaks are visible, which once again confirms that the stove radiator needs to be replaced.

The new heater core fits into place effortlessly and should not cause any problems. It is secured with self-tapping screws, including through a hole previously drilled in the dashboard. In this case, it is advisable to inspect the faucet, since this is another weak point of the heating system. It should be completely dry and the lever should be easy to turn. The glove compartment is installed in place, the dashboard and the removed side panel are screwed to the mounts.

Before adding coolant, you need to check whether the plug on the cylinder block is tightened so that the coolant does not spill out. Fresh antifreeze is poured into the expansion tank to the level; if during operation the level drops, it will have to be topped up.

To carry out the tests, you need to start the engine and, after waiting until it warms up, turn on the heater. It should heat well in different modes, and the interior should remain dry, without stains of spilling antifreeze with a characteristic odor. At first, it is recommended to periodically look at the floor to make sure that all connections are tight and the new radiator is not defective.

Video: Replacing the stove radiator