Any car has its own on-board autonomous electrical network with all the inherent elements, energy source, storage device and consumers. Each of the nodes is functionally complete, they are connected by electrical wiring, and the network parameters are clearly standardized thanks to the accumulated experience in the production of automotive electrical equipment.
The power source for the electronics is a generator, which will be discussed in this article.
Kinds
There are two main types of car generators:
- Direct current, a voltage of a certain polarity is generated directly on the windings;
- Alternating current, since a constant voltage is still required, the generator is equipped with an internal semiconductor rectifier.
Currently, only the second type is used, since it has undeniable advantages, and its windings produce three-phase voltage, which is easier to smooth out ripples and allows more efficient use of the weight and size of the device.
We will look at what is inside this device below.
Purpose
To restore the battery charge after starting the power plant, as well as to provide energy to all other electrical appliances, a generator is used. This electrical element, unlike a battery, generates electricity, and it can do this constantly. But to generate electric current, mechanical work is required - rotation of one of the constituent parts of the generator - the rotor.
Therefore, until the engine is started, the generator is not able to generate energy, and the on-board network is powered only from the battery.
A generator is the same electric motor, but its work is done exactly the opposite. If in email The engine is supplied with energy to obtain a mechanical action - rotation of the rotor, while the generator - rotation ensures the generation of electrical energy.
To put it simply, the principle of operation of the generator is as follows: when the rotor rotates, it forms a magnetic field that acts on the stator winding, which causes an electric current to appear in it, which is used to power the on-board network.
But there are also certain nuances in the operation of this element of the on-board network. A modern car generator is three-phase and provides alternating current at the output, which is not suitable for power supply to the on-board network of a car, since it uses direct current. In addition, the generator must generate electricity with certain indicators so as not to harm consumers. Therefore, this device includes a number of additional equipment.
Device
Externally, all generators are similar at first glance, but those who are familiar with electrical engineering can easily determine which device they are dealing with. The situation is simplified by the fact that DC machines were used only on very relic cars, long out of production.
DC generator
The DC dynamo includes:
- frame;
- field windings on a stator fixedly fixed in the housing;
- power windings on a rotating armature;
- brush assembly with copper-graphite or carbon brushes that remove current from the rotating armature commutator;
- a voltage regulator that stabilizes the output by regulating the excitation current in the stator electromagnet windings;
- drive pulley on the armature shaft;
- bearings in which the armature shaft rotates.
To create acceptable output power, the entire unit had to be massive and metal-intensive, so with the advent of high-quality rectifier semiconductor devices, DC generators were no longer used in cars.
Alternator
In principle, it is designed similarly, but the output power is generated by multiphase stator windings, made of thick wire and not requiring powerful and unreliable current collectors.
The composition of the equipment is also similar:
- housing with mounting brackets and electrical terminals;
- stator windings installed in the housing can be removed when its halves are disconnected;
- rotor with soft electrical iron poles, copper windings and commutator;
- brush assembly, where a pair of carbon brushes is usually installed and an integrated semiconductor voltage regulator is built in, through which excitation power is supplied to the brushes;
- a rectifier block, where a three-phase bridge of six power valves (diodes) and three relatively low-power additional diodes for powering the field winding is located; the number of diodes may differ in specifically designed modern designs;
- bearings on the rotor shaft;
- output connectors, power and control, the second power contact is the metal housing of the generator;
- drive pulley and forced cooling impeller.
The entire structure is attached to the front of the engine for convenient organization of belt drive from the crankshaft pulley. Often, by deflecting the generator to the side, the belt tension is adjusted in cases where the more complex design of the drive of mounted units does not imply the presence of a separate tensioner with a roller.
Replacing the VAZ 2106 Generator with a More Powerful One
Probably wondering which generator is better?
install on VAZ 2106 and 2107. After all, the standard device has some shortcomings that negatively affect the performance.
Standard generators were developed quite a long time ago, and they were not designed for significant volumes of energy consumers. The office one used a couple of light bulbs and a starter.
It is clear that with a larger number of devices, the generator cannot cope with its obligations.
We have to find a suitable replacement for him. For this purpose, it is important to take into account what remains for our client to do about the electronic circuits of the machine. The new device must fit this list one hundred percent.
Which generator is better to install on VAZ 2106 and 2107?
The question is quite difficult. It is necessary to consider it, starting with the development of the most ordinary option. Any manufacturer will say that a specific standard version must be installed on the car. Let's look at the features of the standard version G221.
Here, in the type of relay generators, the regulator is installed separately from the brush assembly. This, within certain limits, simplifies the work to eliminate certain defects.
The advantage is the ease of installation; there is no need to adjust the wiring for connection; our client can only do it according to the standard scheme.
However, such a generator is low-power, it produces a maximum charge of 42, which is not enough for the majority of modern batteries.
Replacing the VAZ 2106 generator with a more powerful one
From all this, they conclude that the standard generator is naturally excellent. However, if you have additional devices, it is not entirely profitable to use it. It is best to choose a more powerful option.
This generator is intended for use on Niva cars. It is capable of delivering 50 A of current, which is enough for real electrical work.
Its difference from a standard “six” generator is the range of built-in regulator relays. Here it is assembled into one unit with brushes. For installation on VAZ 2106
, it is very important to make small improvements.
This electronic machine is installed on 2107 without any special interference or modifications.
VAZ Generator Replacement
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There are several methods for modifying such a generator. The most common would be to install brushes from generator . They are perfectly installed in the area of the relay assembled with the brush assembly.
No modifications are needed, this allows you to install such a generator, even for people without special abilities.
It is possible to install the G222 with a standard regulator, but for this purpose you will have to redo the generator connection diagram. Otherwise, nothing is possible.
Replacing a VAZ 2106 generator with a VAZ 2107
The myth device is quite often installed on 2106, 2107. This is all due to its greater efficiency; it produces a charging current of 55 A, which is quite enough for the majority of motorists. If your car has more than just equipment, then it is better to choose something more powerful.
These generators are similar in terms of mounting, so there will be no problems with the installation itself. This is if you remember to remove the terminal from the battery. The fun starts when you connect. What remains for our client to do, what exists, that 4 wires are connected to the native device. Only 3 goes to the figure eight.
This is all connected to the integrated voltage relay. To obtain the usual result, you need to insulate the dark wire, and connect the others as usual. While the generator is operating, the light indicating the discharge will glow. This is a common occurrence with this connection.
Accordingly, it should fade away in the absence of charging.
By and large, this is already an option to drive, but if you want to do everything possible, as expected, you will have to make some more modifications. We remove the old relay and replace it with an ordinary power relay. Now the light will glow only when the engine starts, and at low speeds, which is completely acceptable.
To install on a VAZ 2107 you will only need to add a power relay.
Fans of various additional equipment require an even stronger “gene”. Of course, they should be advised to install a device from a VAZ 2107i.
Myth unit produces 80 And this is quite enough to perform the work of all electronic systems added by the owner. In purchasing such a generator
, please note that there are a number of their varieties.
For installation on a VAZ 2106, only model 2107-3701010 is suitable; on carburetor “sevens” there is an option to install any generators of this series.
Replacing the VAZ 2101 generator with a more powerful one
It is better to modify the device for installation on the “six”. For this purpose, the relay regulator is replaced with a similar one from G222. The connection is quite similar to working with a figure-of-eight generator.
Conclusion
. Initially, rather weak generators were installed on the “sixes” and “sevens”.
But, in the process of technology development, their power was no longer enough to provide adequate power to the car. So the question arose, which generator is better to install on the VAZ 2106 and 2107.
Luckily there is plenty to choose from. The next generations of devices are perfect for old Zhiguli cars after a little modification.
Source: https://vivauto.ru/zamena-generatora-vaz-2106-na-bolee-moshhnyj/
Connection diagram
The circuit is divided into power and control circuits. The powerful output of the generator is connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery through a power connector made of a large cross-section wire secured with a nut on a stud.
The thin control wire is most often simply connected to the ignition circuit through a control light. There are also other schemes when the light bulb has its own control from a specially designed contact on the body.
Principle of operation
Before starting work, the ignition is turned on in the car, and voltage is supplied to the control contact of the generator through the light bulb. Since the generator is not generating energy at this moment, there is no voltage at the contact, and the light bulb is at battery potential. The indicator lights up and the initial current flows through the field winding.
After the motor starts, the rotating field of the excitation winding on the rotor creates a response induction in the stator windings and the generator begins to generate electricity. Additional diodes raise the voltage at the contact of the light bulb, there is no drop across it, and it stops lighting, signaling that everything is in order, the generator is working.
An electronic circuit in the brush assembly relay-regulator monitors the output voltage, increasing or decreasing the excitation current, thus maintaining the output at a given level, usually 14-15 volts, depending on the type of battery used and its temperature.
The battery at this voltage stops delivering current and goes into charge or hold mode, acting as an additional filter element, since the generator voltage pulsates with the frequency of a three-phase rectifier.
If many consumers are turned on and the engine speed is low, the device is not able to deliver the required power, the voltage decreases, and some consumers begin to be powered by the battery.
When you add speed, the generator increases power, powers consumers, and the excess goes to charge the battery. If the battery is charged and there is excess power, the relay-regulator reduces the excitation current to prevent a dangerous increase in voltage in the network.
Why do you need a generator in a car?
First of all, let’s take a closer look at the functions of a car generator.
All modern machines are equipped with an extensive list of electrical equipment that requires a power source. It is also needed for models that do not have any additional peripherals; electricity is required, at a minimum, to start the engine with the starter, create a spark on the candles to ignite the air-fuel mixture, etc. To supply all these consumers, the car uses 2 sources - the battery and the generator. The battery stores energy and can release it to consuming devices when needed. While the generator produces energy, powers devices and recharges the battery. Thus, if you remove the generator from the structure of the car, it will be able to start and even drive for some time, but after the battery charge is exhausted, the car will stall. It will not be possible to start it again without “lighting it” from another car.
Thus, the main functions of a car generator are:
- battery recharging;
- power supply for electrical equipment installed in the vehicle.
Basic faults
The manifestation of malfunctions is the voltage in the network leaving the specified limits, as well as extraneous sounds from the operating generator.
The reasons may be different:
- wear of the brush assembly, it is replaced together with the integral relay;
- deep wear of the commutator with brushes, if it can no longer be eliminated by grinding, replace the slip rings or the armature assembly;
- failure of the armature bearings; they can be easily replaced after complete or partial disassembly of the generator;
- burnout of rectifier diodes, currently they are not replaced individually, the entire diode bridge must be replaced;
- short interturn short circuits or breaks in the armature or stator, the corresponding parts are changed;
- burnt or corroded contacts, they can also be replaced or cleaned.
Not directly related to the generator, but a common malfunction is a strong whistle when adding engine speed. This indicates that the belt is slipping on the drive pulleys; the tension can be adjusted, but it is better to replace the belt.
When removing the generator for repair, it is advisable to immediately change the diode bridge, bearings and relay regulator with brushes. This way, the repaired device will gain the highest possible reliability, although only a new generator from a reputable manufacturer can provide a full guarantee.
Replacing the generator yourself
Typically, the VAZ 2106 generator must be replaced only in the most exceptional cases, and in case of most malfunctions it is simply repaired.
But if this device on your car has completely failed and cannot be repaired, then it is necessary to replace it.
To make this repair procedure as simple as possible, below is a list of necessary tools that will help make this operation easier:
- Keys for 17 and 19
- Heads for 10, 17 and 19
- Ratchet handles and knobs
- Extension with universal joint
The procedure for removing and installing the generator on a VAZ 2106
Before attempting this repair, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then you need to disconnect all power wires from the generator itself. First you need to unscrew the terminal securing nut:
Now you can pull out all the other wires and plugs, just pull them to the side with a little effort:
Loosen and completely remove the alternator belt.
Then we tear off the upper mount of the generator with an ordinary open-end wrench 17, and after that we throw on the head with an extension and a cardan joint to unscrew this nut quickly and without unnecessary effort:
Next, you need to crawl under the car from below and tear off the nut with a spanner wrench and unscrew it completely using the ratchet handle:
After the nut is completely unscrewed, you need to knock the bolt out. To do this, you can use a wooden block, pointing it at the bolt and hitting it several times with a hammer. The photo shows it without a block, but keep in mind that the backing must be present so as not to damage the thread:
After which the bolt can be pulled out by hand. If it is difficult to move, you can resort to penetrating lubricant, spraying it a little in the right place.
Then you can remove the generator from below, as this is more convenient. If it doesn’t give in right away, you can turn it a little in the right direction so that nothing gets in the way when removing it. This is roughly what it looks like in practice, as shown in the photo below:
The price of a new generator for a VAZ 2106 varies from 2,500 rubles and above, it all depends on your wallet. The replacement process is not complicated and installation occurs in the reverse order of removal.
Source: https://vaz2106-remont.ru/zamena-generatora-svoimi-silami/
How to check a car alternator
Ideally, the generator should be checked on a stand, where it will be spun up to rated speed and loaded to maximum, with the power output in this mode checked.
But you can approximately check it without removing it from the car.
- A digital voltmeter (for example, as part of a multimeter) is connected to the output terminal of the generator.
- The engine starts. The voltmeter readings should increase to the nominal 14 - 14.5 volts. The exception will be the case when the battery is very discharged, then the voltage will increase gradually as it charges.
- The engine is brought to medium or high speed, and the car's headlights and other powerful consumers are turned on, the total demand not exceeding the full power of the generator. The voltage should remain stable, which means the generator is delivering its required power.
- The generator should not emit the characteristic howling sounds of worn bearings. If in doubt, simply remove the belt and turn the pulley by hand. The rotor must rotate absolutely smoothly, without vibrations or backlash.
The new generator is very reliable and the first problems may arise only after a run of 100-150 thousand kilometers. But often these devices last much longer, especially with intermediate replacement of the brush assembly.
What kind of charging should go to the battery from the generator?
It is traditionally believed that 13.5-14.5V should be supplied by the generator to the battery and this is absolutely enough to replenish the battery costs.
It is worth considering that using a battery with a higher power in a car than the manufacturer recommends also requires the installation of a more productive generating device.
It is necessary to take into account the load that the generator must withstand - it is calculated based on the maximum indicators of all electrical appliances and car systems.
Do not forget that the charging current from the energy-generating device will allow you to start the car in the cold season. In order to avoid problems with starting the car, we recommend purchasing generating equipment, the charge current of which will be approximately 10% of the capacity of the power source. That is, a battery of 100 A/h requires a generator that can produce 10A. Please note that for many cars, 100 amp equipment will operate at its maximum capacity, because the power consumption of the automotive system is in the region of 80 amps. Therefore, the choice of a source generating energy must take into account both the battery capacity and network consumption.
