How to prevent cable failure on a VAZ 2110
A failed clutch pedal that fails at the most inopportune moment is a very unpleasant result of careless and extreme driving. The cable resource is extremely long and does not often require replacement. Its breakdown most likely indicates the age of your iron horse.
Typical driving mistakes that lead to cable failure:
- Do not press the clutch pedal while driving, causing it to slip. This can cause not only cable breakage, but also gearbox failure;
- starting from a standstill with high torque is also the main factor that ultimately leads to cable breakage and requiring its replacement.
Replacing the clutch cable of a VAZ 2110
By the way, failure of the cable is another one of the most benign and simple breakdowns on the VAZ 2110. Replacing the clutch fork (about 10% of the total number of relevant faults) can be a much more unpleasant problem. In this case, repairs will cost several thousand rubles.
Thus, if your clutch pedal has sunk to the floor, there may be several reasons:
- the cable needs to be replaced;
Clutch cable
- the clutch fork is broken;
Clutch fork
- the cable simply flew off its seats and requires re-tightening the bolts.
Causes of wear
The main reason for the breakdown of this element is long-term operation of the VAZ 2110 car in poor conditions. For example, a car is stuck in a snowdrift, the driver has to accelerate frequently, which affects the condition of the part.
Separately, it should be said about the correct operation of the machine. With a sharp start at high speeds or with regular movement, when your foot is on the clutch pedal, which causes slipping, this is also a wear factor. Operational reasons are not the only ones. Cable wear may occur earlier than expected due to the following factors:
- low quality cable installation;
- Carrying out repair work with many mistakes;
- ignoring the first signs indicating a breakdown.
Every factor must be taken into account to avoid unexpected damage and expense.
Shifting gears without clutch
Not every driver of a VAZ 2110 imagines how to not only start, but also drive a car without using the clutch pedal. Of course, this skill is very specific, but it can be vitally important when the clutch cable breaks at the most inopportune moment.
The easiest way is to start the car in first gear, first pressing the gas pedal halfway. After turning the ignition, the car will immediately move off with a very noticeable jerk, so be extremely careful when trying to start it this way. Similarly, we turn on the reverse gear.
Driving for a long time in first gear can cause the engine to overheat. If there is a considerable distance to be covered, it is better to learn how to shift higher gears without using the clutch, for which:
- release the gas pedal and, at the moment of least resistance, switch off the gear, moving the transmission lever to the neutral position;
- then engage the next gear, continuing acceleration.
The proposed algorithm for downshifting in the event of a non-working clutch requiring replacement is somewhat different:
- Having switched to neutral gear, we revise the throttle, thereby increasing the speed of the input shaft;
- and only then switch to a lower gear.
Advice from professionals
A vehicle breakdown causes a lot of inconvenience and requires unexpected cash costs. To prevent such situations, it is recommended to take the advice of professionals.
- Carry out technical inspections of your vehicles regularly. This manipulation will allow us to identify future breakdowns and eliminate malfunctions at an early stage of development.
- Respond promptly to emerging signs. Do not operate a vehicle with worn parts.
- When making repairs, use only new and high-quality spare parts.
- Once again, spend a little and entrust the work to qualified mechanics if you don’t know how to remove the clutch cable of a VAZ 2110.
- To extend the life of the clutch cable, systematically lubricate it with a special substance using a syringe provided for this procedure. This feature will prevent chafing of the element.
Carefully monitor the condition of your car. Timely maintenance will extend the life of the vehicle.
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Replacing the VAZ 2110-2112 clutch cable with your own hands, recommendations
In order to replace the clutch cable, you will need the following set of mechanic tools:
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- a set of open-end wrenches and sockets with a ratchet.
Next, you need to perform a simple algorithm of actions, which involves dismantling the VAZ 2110 windshield wiper and window trim. Of course, it is possible to replace the clutch cable without the above steps, but complete instructions according to standard recommendations will still be more clear.
- 1. First, you need to discard the front facing panel for the wind window frame (jabot), held in place by a set of screws;
- 2. Next, remove the windshield washer tubes, wiper arms (in the case of an old-style frill) and, finally, the casing itself.
Removing windshield washer tubes
- 3. Remove the windshield wiper, having first disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and disconnected the expansion tank, for which:
- the gear motor connector is dismantled;
- unscrew the nuts of the left and right fastening of the trapezoid, as well as the bolt holding the gearmotor to the bracket;
- finally, the wiper base, removed from the studs, can be removed from the air supply box.
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Hi all! We continue to mock the car, and this time we will make the clutch pedal softer and quieter.
I think many owners of tens and other front-wheel drive VAZs have noticed that the clutch pedal becomes tighter over time and a squeak appears. There may be several reasons for this, and I want to talk about the fight against one of them. In search of the cause of the tight pedal and creaking, I took the easy way and first tried to lubricate the cable and boss, which naturally did not bring any effect.
Having eliminated the cable, I moved on. The cause of a tight pedal and squeaking is the friction that occurs between the bushings and the axis of the clutch release fork. This happens because over time the lubricant loses its properties.
The main source of the problem is the lower bushing, since it is metal, and as you know, metal slides without lubrication with great reluctance, with the risk of scuffing, etc.
i.e. with excess friction. The upper bushing is plastic and even without lubrication the axle glides well in it.
This is what these bushings look like.
Thus, the main task is to lubricate the lower bushing. Ideally, you would have to remove the box, replace both bushings with new ones and fill them with fresh grease. But since we have enough more important things to do, throwing away the box in vain was not part of my plans. I decided to implement an improvement that I learned about a long time ago, but as always, I never got around to it.
The essence of the modification is to drill a hole in the plastic bushing of the clutch fork axis, and then lubricate both bushings through this hole.
It all sounds very simple, and in reality the same thing happens. Next in order: We remove the air filter box so that it does not interfere. We find this very bushing. And it is located at the checkpoint, strictly under the thermostat.
We drill a hole in it with a diameter of about three millimeters so that the nose of the syringe can fit through. By the way, in order to reach the bushing, you will need a fairly long drill. You can probably try to drill a short one, but the wiring harness and CO pipes will get in the way. You need to drill until the drill rests on the fork axis.
Then we fill the syringe with oil, I used transmission oil, and slowly pour it into the hole. The oil will not go away quickly, because...
The bushing fits tightly to the axle.
To speed up the process, you can slightly lift the bushing (as far as the latches will allow) by prying it around the perimeter with a screwdriver.
You need quite a lot of oil so that it flows along the axis and properly lubricates the lower bushing. I poured about thirty cubes, there is no need to be afraid of overdoing it, the excess will simply flow out. You can plug the hole using a screw.
If you suddenly need to lubricate the bushings again, this can be done by simply unscrewing the screw.
After the procedure has been completed, we get behind the wheel, squeeze the clutch and almost have time to get upset, because nothing has changed. But We don’t give up, we press the clutch five or ten times again, and on the next press the pedal falls down with less effort and without the nasty squeak.
Conclusions:
After lubrication, I finally got rid of the annoying squeaking noise and the clutch pedal became much softer. The feeling can be compared to replacing the clutch with a new one.
PEACE to everyone, like and share the post with friends
, this is another modification for the VAZ from the
MUST HAVE category!
Issue price: 50 ₽ Mileage: 179,800 km.
Changing the clutch cable, basic algorithm
Replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch cable is extremely simple. Even a novice amateur motorist will be able to do the job, and it’s quite difficult to make a mistake. What we do:
- 1. To start, use two 19 mm open-end wrenches. loosen the nuts of the clutch cable end, tilting it away from the bracket;
VAZ 2110 clutch cable replacement
- 2. Disconnect the cable from the fork that controls the clutch release;
- 3. Now you need to disconnect the cable end from the clutch pedal lever. This can be done through the interior, but if you worry about dismantling in advance, then the task is greatly simplified. First, remove the protective cover of the mechanism.
Clutch cable end for VAZ 2110
- 4. The end of the cable is unscrewed with a nut, additionally secured with a locking bracket. Unscrew the pedal lever nut, thereby releasing the cable;
- 5. To release the upper end of the cable sheath, unscrew the corresponding bolt of the thrust plate in the passenger compartment. Then the thrust plate is removed along with the cable;
- 6. The old cable is removed through the interior. When replacing, the lead of the new cable is lubricated with silicone.
Purpose of the cable and its place in the device
VAZ 2112 cars have a mechanical drive; it is installed on passenger cars of the VAZ family and not only, which are equipped with low-power power units. This type of drive compares favorably with others due to its very simple design and low cost of production. In addition, the mechanical drive is easy to repair and maintain because it contains a minimum number of necessary elements, see photo below:
Schematic design of a mechanical clutch
- As can be seen from the diagram, the main element of the mechanical drive is represented by a flexible cable enclosed in a shell
- The clutch pedal is located inside the car and is connected to the lever (clutch fork) through a flexible cable.
- At the junction of the fork and the cable there is an adjustment device, which is designed to regulate the free play of the pedal
- The operation of the drive is incredibly simple: the driver presses the pedal
- This sets the VAZ 2112 clutch cable in motion, which pulls the lever device
- This device (fork) moves the release bearing along the guide
- The release bearing presses on the legs (petals) of the basket
- Thus, the clutch is disengaged
Adjusting the newly installed cable
After the VAZ 2110 clutch cable has been replaced, all that remains is to make its final adjustment, spending about 30 minutes of your personal time. Thus, we ensure comfortable and reliable operation of the VAZ 2110 clutch mechanism.
Clutch pedal adjustment
The degree of tension is adjusted by changing the position of the lower end of the cable fixed in the gearbox bracket. You can navigate by the position of the adjacent pedal. When the adjustment is completed, we check it using a tape measure or ruler.
The pedal travel from its initial position to its stop on the floor should be within 125 mm with an error of 5 mm up or down. If the pedal position does not correspond to the specified recommendations, adjustment should be continued.
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In the store I ask jokingly that I need a clutch cable for a ten, which will never break! They answer me: change the car. I bought a clutch cable for a VAZ 2110 in Balakovo. Of all, he was the most expensive.
You can replace dozens of clutch cables in various ways:
- Remove the frill and the windshield wiper (to make it easier to get to the attachment of the cable end to the clutch pedal)
- Without removing the frill (method for those who are able to take the lotus position)
The standard instructions for replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch cable involve removing the frill and windshield wiper, but I decided to take the shortcut and not disassemble anything.
Also, after replacing the cable, the clutch needs to be adjusted.
Replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch cable without removing the frill
We unscrew the clutch cable fastening using a 19 key. Next, you need to remove the cable tip from the clutch release fork, but since the cable was torn, there was no need to remove anything
In fact, replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch cable with your own hands is quite simple. I did this procedure for the first time. The replacement was carried out in the winter outside in the evening with a flashlight in hand. I spent 2 hours replacing the clutch cable. I spent most of my time in the pedal area when removing and installing the cable.
Adjusting the clutch pedal VAZ 2110
The clutch pedal travel (all the way to the mat) should be 125mm (+-5mm). The maximum permissible pedal stroke is 160 mm. To adjust the clutch, you need to unscrew or tighten nut No. 2, after completing the adjustment, tighten lock nut No. 1. Tighten the rubber washer as much as possible to the fork.
You can adjust the clutch so that the pedal is lower than the brake pedal, then it will grab almost immediately after the pedal leaves the floor. If you make the clutch pedal high (higher than the brake pedal), then when you lower the clutch it will grab almost at the very end. A pedal that is too high can accelerate wear on the basket.
Replace the clutch cable on the “ten” yourself..
Checking status
Normal PT adjustment ensures that the vehicle is held on a slope. This corresponds to 3-8 clicks of the handle on newer nines or 5-7 clicks on a VAZ 2109 produced before 1995.
To carry out the test, follow a few simple steps:
- Find a slope that has about 25 degrees;
- Turn the handbrake to the required position;
- If the car starts to roll, the handbrake does not hold, adjustment is required;
- If there is no such slope nearby, the check is carried out in a garage;
- Place the car on a flat surface, raise the handbrake handle all the way;
- Approach from behind and try to push the car with maximum force;
- If the car begins to move, the RT requires adjustment;
- Check the operation of the handbrake at 2 clicks on newer versions of the VAZ 2109 and not reaching 5 clicks on versions before 1995. If the handbrake is working at full strength, the cable will be tightened. It will also need to be adjusted.
Operating a car with a tightened PT cable is also dangerous, as this leads to overheating and wear of the rear brake pads.
Adjustment
To adjust the PT cable you will need a pit, overpass or lift. Next we proceed according to the following algorithm.
- Raise the handbrake handle 2-3 clicks from the passenger compartment.
- Get under the car and loosen the locking nut of the parking brake cable equalizer. Before doing this, it is better to treat the nut with a wire brush to remove all dirt.
- Then act according to the circumstances. If the cable is overtightened, it must be loosened by appropriate manipulation of the nut. If the cable holds too weakly, the nut must be tightened more tightly.
- If tensioning the cable does not produce any result, then the element is already at the limit of its capabilities. Therefore, the only solution to this situation is replacement.
- When adjusting the degree of tension, be sure to evaluate the adjustment of the cable along the PT lever. As you remember, normally it is 3-8 clicks for more recent versions of the VAZ 2109, or 5-7 clicks for nines that were produced before 1995.
- Check the freedom of rotation of the rear wheels. If you overtighten the cable, the wheels will spin with difficulty and not as freely as they should.
- After making the adjustment, tighten the locking nut back and check the operation of the handbrake again by driving up a slope or pushing the machine with the PT on.
If the adjustment did not give a positive result, the cable turned out to be worn out, overtightened and does not allow adjusting the operation of the RT, you will have to change it, thereby repairing the handbrake.
Replacement
In some cases, heavy movement of the cable in the sheath is due to lack of lubrication. To eliminate this defect, fill the shell with transmission or engine oil. Pour until grease flows out of the opposite end of the cable casing. Remember to move the cable while adding lubricant.
Let's start replacing
As you know, there are two ways to replace the clutch cable on a VAZ 2112, with and without removing the frill and wiper. Which one is faster is a moot point; without removing it, it seems to be faster, but then when installing the cable in place, a lot of inconvenience arises, so I recommend leaving the method without removing the frill to yoga. The standard instructions included with the car require their removal, therefore:
- Carry out work on a cooled engine.
- Disconnect (just in case) the battery terminals
- Take off the frill, don't be lazy
- Unscrew the wiper so it doesn't interfere
- We unscrew the nuts that secure the clutch cable in the bracket on the VAZ 2112 using two 19mm wrenches (twist one, hold the other)
- After this, remove the cable from the bracket
- Then you need to disconnect the cable end from the fork
- If the cable breaks, there may be nothing left to remove
- After this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the protective cover covering the clutch pedal.
- And remove the casing
- Unhook the bracket that secures the cable end to the pedal
- To make this easier, you need to raise the pedal as much as possible and use a screwdriver to pry out the clip
- Since we removed the frill, it is now much more convenient to remove the bracket from under the hood
- From the interior, using the “8” key, unscrew the bolt that secures the thrust plate of the upper cable tip
- In the image below, the steering column was removed for clarity; in general, replacing the clutch cable on a VAZ 2112 does not require removing the column
- Then we pull out this support plate
- Pull the cable into the cabin
- Now push the new cable under the hood from inside
- After this, replacing the VAZ 2112 clutch cable in the reverse order of disassembly
- You can coat the inside of the cable with engine or transmission oil
- For lubrication in the winter season or closer to it, grease is better, as is used in CV joints
- Just keep in mind that it is most difficult for her to lubricate the cable from the inside.
- As you can see, replacing the clutch cable on a VAZ 2112 is quick and easy, all that remains is adjustment, which you shouldn’t forget about
A few notes
Taking advantage of the fact that you have climbed quite deep into the inside of the car, you can carry out some additional actions so as not to return to this in the near future.
- It is advisable to change the release bearing along with the clutch;
- You also need to check the clutch paddles and the clutch basket itself. If there is significant wear, do not be lazy to replace them, otherwise in the near foreseeable future you will have to climb into the hole again;
- The driven disk must be centered
. It would be good to use a special mandrel for this purpose. If this is not available, you need to at least select a wooden round of the required size. When the basket fasteners are tightened, if the alignment is done correctly, the mandrel (or its substitute) should come out without any effort. But don’t fall out on your own.
Replacement Tools
To work you will need:
- The key is "8".
- Two keys for "14".
- Screwdriver (phillips).
Sequence of work
For comparison, old and new clutch cables
They go in this order:
- Move the air filter housing to the side.
The air filter housing will interfere with us, so we will move it to the side. Moreover, all the housing latches were broken and it was dangling under the hood
Pull the cable out of the bracket
Clutch cable bracket in the cabin - you'll have to tinker with it
Important! Before installing the cable, you need to adjust the clutch pedal so that it is 10-13 centimeters from the floor level. We have already written in more detail about replacing the clutch itself on a VAZ-2112.
Video about replacing the clutch cable
Clutch adjustment on a VAZ-2112
During clutch adjustment
To adjust, you will need to rotate the bolt, which is located on the cable on the gearbox side. When the pedal distance is adjusted, tighten the nut and press the pedal 2-3 times. If all is well, then tighten the locknut on the casing. Next, the car is assembled in the reverse order.
The clutch cable must first be lubricated with LSC-15 or Litol-24.
Malfunctions
Any driver experiences an unpleasant feeling when the clutch pedal sinks to the floor. This can happen if the clutch cable breaks; it is also possible that the release fork breaks (this case is discussed in another article). The cable breaks more often on older cars that are used in extreme conditions or all year round.
The cable may become frayed, which affects the smoothness of the pedal and the operation of the clutch. This cable also requires replacement.
If the clutch cable is broken, you can drive your car to the repair site. You need to start the car in first gear and shift while driving. The following situation is possible: the cable broke while the gear was engaged, and the car stalled.
There is a possibility that it will be difficult to engage the neutral position. Then your car won’t even be able to roll off the roadway. The transmission is disengaged by rocking the car forward and backward and disengaging the transmission at the same time. You can jack up one of the wheels and spin it by hand, this will also help.
Even if the cable is not replaced, gear shifting is possible. It is possible to get to the service station, but such driving has a negative impact on the service life of the gearbox.
The cost of the spare part is low, about 300 rubles. The cost of replacing a cable in a car service is 400 rubles.