Repair and replacement of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110—2112 car

Home » Domestic auto industry

Reading time: 13 minutes. Updated 08/04/2019

Domestic cars suffer from minor defects and frequent breakdowns. The ignition system in this situation is no exception. Most car owners are accustomed to restoring their “tens” on their own, so many car owners fix any malfunctions of the VAZ-2110 ignition switch in a garage.

To correctly determine the breakdown, you need to properly diagnose it. In this case, sometimes you will need a multimeter set to ohmmeter mode.

Diagnostic measures

Checking the condition of electrical components and mechanisms can be effective only after disassembling the decor that hides the insides. Plastic elements are located around the steering column, capturing parts and components partially located on it.

After opening access to the electrical part, you will need an ohmmeter to test the operation of the unit and the absence of failures when supplying current from the battery. Checks are carried out in different key positions. This is due to the fact that for each position certain contact closures are provided.

It is important to know that the resistance at the contacts of a working system must be zero.

The driver can start the car independently even if the lock is faulty. A similar situation happens on the road, when it is still far from the garage or the nearest car service station. The launch method is described in the presented video.

Motorists need to know exactly the basic steps of all operations. We carry out dismantling work according to the following scheme:

• First, we de-energize the on-board electrical network. To do this, simply disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. At the next stage, you will need to fold down the steering column switches, which poses some difficulties. The lock mounting bolts are structurally protected by car manufacturing engineers to minimize the possibility of theft. To screw them together you will have to use a chisel and a hammer. This is inconvenient in limited cabin space conditions. We turn the heads with a chisel, and carry out further screwing with pliers.
• The removed assembly will show obvious damage or defects. The backlight often burns out. We tilt it away from the connector and remove it from the socket. We insert the new one into the vacated slot.
• When the functionality of a unit is lost due to poor performance of its duties by the contact group, we repair it, for example, soldering contacts or completely replacing the unit. It is necessary to decide what to do based on economic feasibility, because the group is not so expensive that much attention should be paid to it. If you need to replace it, just use a flat-head screwdriver to press the lock to release the part for repair or replacement. Assembly or installation is carried out in the reverse order, using the latch.
• When replacing the key controller switch, you will need a Phillips head screwdriver, with which we unscrew three bolts. Next, remove the axial rod and hold the latch. This will allow you to release the switch and install a new one in its place.
• Installation operations must be carried out sequentially, returning each part to its place. Before starting work, you must insert the key into the well and turn it to the first position. This will unlock the steering wheel rotation and remove the mechanical anti-theft protection. The special pin will come out of its holding position. Only after it is completely hidden in the nest will it be possible to begin work.

After completing the work, we recommend testing for blocking. Only when performing the algorithm is it worth covering the steering wheel axis with plastic decor.

The VAZ 2110 ignition switch cannot be called a reliable part, especially when you compare its service life with the same devices on cars of foreign origin. Therefore, owners of the tenth - twelfth model, who use the car for a long time, sooner or later encounter problems with the lock and its repair. On the other hand, the element can be easily removed from the car and every skilled motorist can replace it. But first you should figure out whether the entire part needs to be replaced, since in most cases it can be repaired.

Basic principles

Regardless of the type of engine used, the basis of the wiring used in the VAZ 2110 car is the same. It's easy to find a diagram, but not so easy to understand.

Let's look at the basic principles of wiring.

1. All equipment and devices powered by electricity in the VAZ 2110 are based on a single-wire connection. VAZ designers specially provided for wires of certain colors to each be responsible for their own functions. Therefore, certain equipment is connected using wires of their own color. This allows you to independently understand the wiring, make it easier to carry out repair work and not spend money on car repair services.
2. The downside to the VAZ 2110 is that the mass is the car body itself.
3. The positive wire of the batteries on the top ten always comes only in red. Therefore, when making repairs, try not to change the color of the wire, so as not to confuse yourself.
4. For each system that is connected to the electrical system, it is equipped with its own separate wiring harness.
5. The VAZ 2110 is designed in such a way that when the battery is turned on, all electrics and electrical equipment are energized. This is related to the most common recommendation, which you have seen more than once in our materials, where we described the repair or replacement of certain components - disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
6. Do not forget about the existence of the so-called contactless system. This system is required to create a high-quality spark, which is simply necessary to ensure combustion of the air-fuel mixture. In order for a contactless system to function, high voltages are indispensable.

Carburetor models

The first versions of the VAZ 2110 model, which the domestic plant began to produce, were equipped exclusively with carburetor engines. Only after some time more modern injection versions appeared. They are objectively better. But this does not take away the fact that many have dozens of them under the hood with a carburetor.

Are there any significant differences in terms of electrical circuitry between a carburetor and an injector? We can say no. The carburetor systems used are almost entirely the same as on the more modern version.

Part of interior wiring

Also, you will not encounter serious problems in the form of electrical wiring if you suddenly want to replace a carburetor engine with an injection engine or equip the car with additional electrical equipment. You will even find identical plugs in the engine compartment.

The only nuance of switching from a carurator to an injector is the need to install additional wiring from the fuel pump to the on-board computer.

Injector

In addition to the wiring, which is identical for the carburetor and injector, the latter is additionally equipped with fuses and sensors.

In practice, due to the large number of regulators that ensure the operation of an electronic engine control unit of an injection type with 8 or 16 valves (there is none on the carburetor), the system turns out to be more complex. To repair it, you need to carefully understand all the components and their location.

Reasons for replacing the ignition switch

There are 3 main reasons leading to breakdowns of this device:

• mechanical wear as a result of long-term use;
• problems with the electrical part of the lock;
• damage due to attempted break-ins and car theft.

Reference. The first troubles associated with turning on the ignition and starting the engine may appear after three years of operation of the VAZ 2110-2112.

Appearance of the ignition switch VAZ 2110—2112

Not every one of the listed reasons leads to a complete replacement of the element; sometimes you can get by with “little loss” by changing one of its parts. To determine this issue, you need to diagnose the signs of a malfunction:

1. Contacts are burnt or oxidized. In this case, the mechanical part works, but the electrical part does not. The problem is solved by cleaning or replacing the contact group.
2. The key gets stuck in the slot, after starting the engine it is not thrown back and you have to turn it by hand. These are malfunctions of the core (larvae) and the ejection spring, which can be completely repaired.
3. Obvious mechanical failures of the locking tongue (the steering wheel is very difficult to rotate), jamming or cracks in the housing are a reason to replace the entire ignition switch.

In the event of a mechanical failure, the key may not turn or may not be released by the spring.

A separate issue is the loss of all keys by the owners. It can be solved in two ways - by replacing the entire device or the key turning mechanism - the cylinder. For obvious reasons, the second option will be cheaper, especially if you do the work yourself.

Reference. As practice shows, the mechanical insides of an element can be broken by an ignorant driver who has lost his keys and is trying to unlock the steering wheel in order to start the engine by shorting the wires. There is a more elegant way - to remove the lock, and only then connect the wires of certain colors, as described below.

Checking the lock contact group with a multimeter

A faulty contact group can be easily diagnosed if you have a multimeter or other device with a resistance measurement function in your household. To do this, you need to get to the connector located under the plastic frame of the steering column and disconnect it. Then use a multimeter to measure the resistance between all contacts in the block, turning the key to different positions. Depending on the result, the following conclusions are drawn:

• the device shows infinity - the contact group is out of order and needs to be replaced;
• some resistance value indicates burnt or oxidized contacts, try to clean them;
• zero readings on the device indicate that the electrical part is fully operational.

VAZ 2110 ignition switch diagram

Important! You need to measure the resistance in the block whose wires come from the ignition switch (male connector), do not confuse it with other contacts connected to the car’s on-board network.

Starter malfunctions and reasons for their occurrence

The unit does not spin the flywheel due to many factors. Below we will discuss defects in the immobilizer, pull-out relay, injector, as well as in the car wiring. Sometimes repairs are not enough, in which case the device needs to be replaced.

Faulty injector

The standard version of the VAZ 2110 is not equipped with injectors, but they can be supplied separately. Drivers choose these devices for many reasons: reduced fuel consumption, no need to warm up the engine in cold weather, increased power characteristics.

The arrow points to the starter relay

If the starter is not working well, then you need to check the injector, which may be acting up due to bad gasoline. This is the only drawback of the injector - it requires high-quality fuel. It is also worth checking whether the connection diagram is followed.

Overrunning clutch failure

If the overrunning clutch breaks, the engine starts and runs perfectly. But when the car stops, the engine cannot be restarted; it clicks but does not start. In this case, you need to wait until the power plant has cooled down, and only then try to start it.

Also in this case, it is worth inspecting the wiring that comes from the coupling. Sometimes replacing damaged wires can solve a problem where the engine clicks but won't start. Another sign of a faulty clutch is the radio turning on spontaneously.

Solenoid relay

Once behind the wheel, the driver inserts the key and turns it, the fuel pump starts working, the dashboard lights up, but when turning further, the pump and the panel turn off, and the starter does not turn. In such a situation, the solenoid relay is most likely to blame.

Removing the solenoid relay

First of all, you need to check whether there is voltage going to it. If it does, then it’s worth checking the lock itself or the alarm system, which may close the circuit. If all the elements work separately and do not start together, then the starter does not turn due to the solenoid relay.

Poor contact

In this case, the starter starts after several attempts, but it still clicks. This problem occurs due to damaged contacts. The inspection should begin with the battery. If the terminals are oxidized, you need to clean them.

If this does not help, then you should check the starter contacts, because when they are oxidized, the device turns poorly or does not start the crankshaft at all. If the starter refuses to work, but the immobilizer is running, then there is a malfunction in it. Here you won’t be able to remove the defect yourself - you need to go to a car service center. Now readers know how much it costs and why the starter does not work; it is worth doing the work yourself only if you have experience working with wiring.

Instructions for removing the element

For disassembly you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• 10 mm head and ratchet drive;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• narrow chisel (width 5-8 mm);
• hammer;
• round nose pliers with tapered, curved ends.

Ignition switch replacement tool

To successfully install a new or repaired lock in place, it is advisable to purchase 4 special fastening bolts with M6 threads with a head size of 10 mm and a length of 20 mm. Their feature is the heads that come off with a key at a certain tightening torque. After tearing off the heads, semicircular caps remain on the surface, which are much more difficult to unscrew for an untrained person. But you will have to do this during disassembly.

The battery must be disconnected before starting work.

Like any event related to tampering with the electrical part of the car, dismantling the ignition switch begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Then proceed in this order:

1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the two halves of the plastic frame of the steering column together.
2. Lower the handle that fixes the position of the steering wheel during adjustment all the way down and remove the plastic panels. Disconnect the ignition switch block and carefully cut the tape connecting your bundle of wires to the common harness. In order not to cling to the steering column switch during operation, it can also be pulled out of the connector.
3. On the metal casing of the steering column you will see a lock mount consisting of two clamps. They are held together by 4 bolts with the heads torn off (visible on the left side). Pointing the chisel at the semicircular caps, use a hammer to loosen the tightening of these bolts one by one.
4. Using pliers and then your hands, unscrew all 4 bolts and remove the ignition switch.

Unscrewing the plastic steering column cover

Note. There are “dozens” in which not all the bolt heads are torn off during assembly. This simplifies the matter; the fasteners can be easily unscrewed with a 10 mm socket.

Bolts with intact heads can be unscrewed with a wrench

At the stage of disconnecting the connectors, it becomes possible to check the functionality of the contact group by measuring resistance, as described in the previous section. If you remove the lock due to the loss of the keys and want to move on, then after dismantling you need to do the following:

1. On the “mother” block, which remains hanging after the lock is turned off, find contacts with thick wires of purple and blue color (the latter with a black stripe).
2. Connect these terminals with any conductor, after which the ignition will turn on.
3. The thick red wire leads to the starter. To start, its contact must be temporarily connected to the installed jumper. When the engine starts, the red wire must be disconnected.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:

1. comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
2. the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
3. +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
4. +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
5. +12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
6. comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. not used.

Replacing the contact group

In the event that, as a result of diagnostics, a malfunction of the contact group is detected, you will still have to remove the ignition switch, since it will not be possible to get to it in any other way. After removing the element, disassemble it using the following algorithm:

1. Disconnect the connectors with the backlight power wires.
2. Remove the decorative plastic cover by releasing the 4 latches. Work carefully because these clips are easy to break off, and buying a cover separately is quite a task. It is not advisable to change the entire lock because of it.
3. By bending the 2 clamps holding the contact group, remove it from the ignition switch.

The plastic cover can be removed using a screwdriver

Note. You will additionally need a small flat-head screwdriver as a tool to bend the latches.

The contact group is located immediately under the cover

First of all, examine the status of the contacts. If they have darkened (oxidized), then clean the current-carrying surfaces with fine sandpaper P1000. Then put the group in place and, without installing the lock, connect it to the vehicle's on-board electrical system to check its functionality. If unsuccessful, the part must be replaced. The same will have to be done if the contacts are burnt or the group does not work without any external signs of malfunction.

The part is removed after bending two latches

Device Features

Let's start with some basic things you should be aware of before embarking on a replacement or repair.

1. The ignition switch (IZ) is the main element of the car's starting system. You will not be able to start the engine without it.
2. The lock has a built-in anti-theft system. Therefore, if the protection does not work, the risk of becoming a victim of car thieves increases significantly.
3. The ZZ is capable of blocking the starter from being turned on again, but without initially turning off the ignition.
4. For tens, the key can be removed from the lock when it is in the “zero” position. By taking it out, you will thereby extend a special rod, which is responsible for the anti-theft functions.
5. If the key moves from position zero to “one”, then the locking rod goes away and the ignition contacts close.
6. When the car is started, all electrical equipment receives power and is energized. This applies to the dashboard, headlights, generator, windshield wipers, power windows, heater, turn signals, etc.
7. By turning the key to position “two”, you thereby close another group of contacts, which makes it possible to apply voltage to the starter relay. This will start the engine and you can drive.

Installation of a new larva

To replace the lock core due to mechanical failure, remove it from the vehicle as described above. Then follow this algorithm:

1. Insert the key into the slot and use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 halves of the lock body together.
2. Separate the housing while holding it with the key facing up. If you hold the lock in a different position during disassembly and do not insert the key, the insides will spill out and you will not understand how to put them back together. In this case, the ball with springs may get lost.
3. Remove the locking mechanism, which consists of two spring-loaded parts, and pull out the spring itself.
4. After removing the key, carefully remove the core so that the ball with the spring (located on the side of the cylinder) is not lost.

To disassemble the case, you need to unscrew 3 screws

Before replacing, it is necessary to remove the return spring from the old cylinder, since it is not sold complete with a new core. The spring is inside the part on the back side in a cocked state; it must be installed in the same form on the new cylinder. Also, do not forget to remove the thin spring from the hole where the ball is inserted.

The locking mechanism tongue peeks out from the bottom of the case

Important point. Remember that if you replace the core because it is broken, the new key will no longer fit the door lock. There are 2 options: use two separate keys or simultaneously change the cylinder in the door. The last method becomes the only applicable one when all the keys are lost.

The larva must be pulled out so as not to lose the details

When installing the core, you need to move the spring for the ball into the hole and insert the part into the body. Then push the larva all the way, while simultaneously inserting the ball into the socket. After that, all that remains is to assemble the locking mechanism and tighten the housing with screws. When finished, check the operation of the ignition switch by turning the key to different positions.

The ejection spring from the old core needs to be moved to the new one

Problems with the ignition module

The ignition module is an electronic analogue of a distributor (see VAZ distributor design: the difference between contact and non-contact ignition systems and ignition timing adjustment) and an ignition coil. A faulty module can fail at the wrong moment, according to the famous law of meanness. Checking it and identifying malfunctions will take no more than an hour, but it will allow you to determine the approach of serious problems in time.

VAZ2110 ignition module

So:

• The main symptom of a module malfunction is the absence of a spark in one or several cylinders at once.
• In this case, the engine stalls or does not start at all.
• The second common phenomenon is a failure in the timing of the ignition cycle, due to which it is impossible to coordinate the interaction of the piston and gas distribution system with the module
• There are several methods for identifying module malfunctions

How the larva changes - video

The video demonstrates how to disassemble the mechanical part of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2170 (Lada Priora), but in design it does not differ from the elements installed on VAZ 2110-2112 cars.

As a rule, there is no need to change the entire ignition switch, although car enthusiasts often resort to this option to save time. The operation will take the technician at the service station no more than 20 minutes. Replacing it yourself will require more time, but you will be able to replace only the broken part (cylinder or contact group), thereby saving personal funds.

Tools you will need for your work

To perform the work you may need the following tools:

• chisel;
• hammer
• socket wrench 10;
• a set of standard screwdrivers and wrenches;
• pliers or round nose pliers;
• sandpaper.

An experienced master will spend about an hour on the job, a beginner will have to tinker twice as long. But this is a completely justified time investment, since it allows you to save money - as of January 10, 2019, the average price for replacing the ignition switch of VAZ 2112, 2110 and 2111 in car services costs 800 rubles. In addition, the car owner will be charged another 500 rubles for adjusting the system. While the complete unit itself costs about 1 thousand rubles. Replacing a contact group will cost the car owner about the same money, when the element itself costs an average of 300 rubles.

Troubleshooting

Before tackling the question of how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110, you need to find out the nature of the malfunctions. How to check the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 is described in the instructions.

1-reserve; 2-minus backlight; 3-starter; 4-plus after the ignition switch; 5-reserve; 6-plus backlight; 7-constant plus; 8 is a constant plus.

Troubleshooting the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 is carried out in the following steps:

1. The battery will be disconnected.
2. The casing is removed from the steering wheel shaft column. To do this, unscrew several screws.
3. The lock connector is removed from the back.
4. Using a multimeter, the voltages in the contact groups are checked. The installed key switches in different positions.
5. Voltage on pins 8 and 30 is present only when the key is in zero position.
6. In position 1, the servicing devices are turned on: turns, headlights and heated glass.
7. In position 2, voltage is supplied to devices related to engine operation.
8. In position 3, the starter is activated. The key then returns to its original position.

If there are interruptions during the verification process, then the ignition switch on the VAZ 2110 requires disassembly and repair.

How does the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 work?

The lock is located on the left of the steering column. The lock body is hidden by a plastic casing, only the key slot is visible, and the wires are located at the bottom.

When the key is turned, the contact disk also turns, which activates the electrical circuits.

The ignition switches have the following positions:

• "Switched off". Marking "0".
• "Ignition". Marking "I".
• "Starter". Marking "II".
• "Blocking". Marking "III"

The key must be inserted and removed from the “I” or “III” position.

From the “Blocked” state to the “Off” marking, the electric field is short-circuited in the structure of the machine (additional devices, light, stove)

The “Starter” position is self-starting and the engine is brought into working condition. When the engine starts, you need to switch to the “Ignition” marking.

To turn off the engine, you need to turn the key to the left, marked “Off”.

Disassembly and replacement procedure

When the source of the malfunction is identified, the question immediately arises: how to disassemble the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110.

To do this, first it is removed. Since the preparatory work has already been done, the following actions remain:

1. The housing mounting bolts are unscrewed.
2. The lid made of plastic material is removed. The lock is removed.

Replacing the larva

Before changing the ignition switch on a VAZ, sometimes it is enough to replace the cylinder.

The process consists of several steps:

1. A small diameter pin holding the cylinder is removed from the side. The work is carried out using a thin screwdriver and a hammer.
2. The old larva is removed and the new one is installed.
3. To check, the steering wheel is turned and the reliability of the jamming is checked.
4. Sometimes the blocking is adjusted.

After replacing the used element, you need to know how to assemble the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110. This process occurs exactly in the reverse order.

Replacing the contact group

Knowing how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, this is not always necessary. Ingod the contact group fails, which, like the larva, changes.

Its replacement is carried out in the following order:

1. All contacts are numbered before they are disconnected.
2. Then they are disconnected.
3. 2 latches are removed.
4. The old group is removed and a new one is installed in its place.
5. Then, in the reverse order, the assembly is assembled.

Complete lock replacement

Craftsmen who know how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with their own hands have long realized that this process is much easier than replacing individual structural parts.

After disconnecting the battery, removing the steering casing and unscrewing the bolts, the plug is disconnected and the lock is removed. This completes the operation to remove the old node. A new product is installed in its place.

If you still have questions about how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, I recommend watching this video:

The engine won't start?

If, as a result of the check, it became clear that the spark hits the spark plugs, but the VAZ 2110 injector engine still does not start, then it is also necessary to diagnose it. The faults that cause this problem can be serious or not very serious.

At the same time, it is sometimes possible to cope with their solution without anyone’s help:

• It is necessary to purchase a spark gap and a Hall Sensor, which is inexpensive, but has an irreplaceable purpose. With their help, you can find out about the presence of a spark in the candles;
• Check the spark plugs to see if they are OK. A spark gap can be used for this purpose. However, you need to remember that the controller will be broken if candles are placed on its body;
• Perform fuel pump diagnostics. When you try to start a VAZ 2110 car, a characteristic sound will appear from under the rear seat. If there is no sound, then you need to check the fuses and the main relay. In a VAZ 2110 car they are located behind the side cover of the driver's seat.

If, after diagnostics, problems were identified with one of these elements, then you can fix them yourself. Usually the spark plugs begin to work after proper wiping, although this does not always happen, so they have to be replaced.

Choosing a new lock

It’s not enough to know how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands; you also need to make the right choice of a new product. Existing fake options that do not survive for a long time.

During the selection process, attention is paid to the following criteria:

• impossibility of tearing off the characteristic holographic sticker;
• the correct shape of the casting of the body;
• the key must enter without visible resistance;
• high density packaging;
• the protruding tongue is distinguished by a light shade.

Existing articles of ignition switches for the VAZ 2110, which are distinguished by their reliability, for example: lock VAZ 2110-3704005-30.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099

Pinout according to the old type

Pinout of the VAZ-2109 ignition switch with unloading relay:

1. comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
2. comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
3. comes +12V in position III (parking)
4. position I, +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
5. position I, +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
6. position I, +12V goes away after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. comes +12V constantly.

New pinout type

Pinout of the new VAZ-2109 ignition switch:

1. comes +12V constantly
2. comes +12V constantly
3. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
4. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
5. position I, +12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
6. +12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
7. +12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
8. comes +12V constantly.

Professional advice

Such advice is as follows:

1. Even having an understanding of the rules for replacing larvae and contact groups, it is better to refrain from this work. The repair process is complex and time-consuming. If you have an idea of ​​how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110, then it is better to replace the entire assembly.
2. Graphite grease is used as a lubricant for the cylinder. It reduces the risk of biting the part.
3. Even knowing how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110, as well as how to change the door lock on a VAZ 2110, in the process of work you should give preference to branded products.

The procedure for replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 is a simple type of repair work. Even a beginner will not experience big problems. The main thing is to have the necessary equipment and tools on hand, and also to read the instructions well.

Checking for a spark

This method is most suitable for testing the module in “field” conditions. However, it requires having at least one new spark plug on hand in your car's inventory:

• One by one, remove the spark plug caps from the cylinder head cover, insert a new spark plug, which we ground to ground or to the body
• We rotate the starter, if there is no spark, then the problem does not lie in the spark plugs, and we should continue to study the ignition system
• Let's try to replace the armor wire on the cap on which there is a lack of spark.
• All wires are numbered on the module cover, so remove the wire from the non-working contact and put it on the working one (let's swap them)
• Thus, we will check the condition of the connecting contacts themselves and the integrity of the core
• If a spark appears after changing a non-working wire to a working one, then the problem was in the wire
• If the problem remains, it means that for the VAZ 2110, repair of the ignition module is inevitable, or replacement if repair is impossible
• If there is a complete absence of spark on all spark plugs, it means failure of the module or its high-voltage coil
• In cars with fuel injection, the electronic system that controls the ignition and fuel distribution may be damaged, signs of such a failure as if the ignition module breaks down
• To repair the module you will need a screwdriver, a soldering iron and spare parts, if you have nowhere to rush, then you can sit at home and calmly disassemble it and re-solder it, after watching a video on this issue
• It is often much faster to replace the ignition module or high-voltage armor wires with similar ones purchased or temporarily removed from a car of the same brand
• Replacement does not take long, the module can be removed easier than a distributor, the cylinder numbers are always marked on it
• This operation allows you to determine general faults of the entire system without unnecessary effort in some cases

That's all, we wish you success in self-repair and troubleshooting.

When the solenoid relay is at fault

You got behind the wheel, turned the key, the instrument panel turned on, and the fuel pump started working. You turn further, but the panel turns off and the starter is silent. You release the key, the panel lights up again and the fuel pump starts working.

First of all, check if there is voltage going to the solenoid relay. Is it coming? Try closing the starter. Refuses to turn? Disconnect the alarm system, it may also be the cause, just like the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110 itself.

Have you discovered that everything works in “independent mode”, but together it fails? This means that the solenoid relay is faulty and should be replaced.