Features of the Lada Priora ignition switch, replacement and repair

Lada Priora cars are equipped with an ignition lock (switch) version 11180-3704010 with a built-in anti-theft lock, coil connection with the immobilizer and a function to prevent the starter from restarting without turning off the ignition.

The electrical diagram of the Lada Priora ignition switch given below allows you to more accurately understand the causes of possible malfunctions of the switch and to monitor its performance, first of all, check the reliability of contact closure in all key positions, the ease of closing and opening the anti-theft device, as well as the presence of a stable connection with the standard immobilizer .

The main voltage to the lock is supplied through contact “30” directly from the car’s power supply sources (battery or generator), and the unloading of the contacts most often involved in operation is carried out through the participation of relay K4, located in the mounting block.

Removing the ignition switch (switch) of VAZ 2170 (2171, 2172)

To perform this technological operation, you must have a flat and Phillips screwdriver on hand, as well as a chisel and a hammer.

Removing the ignition switch of a Lada Priora begins with disconnecting the power wire from the negative terminal of the battery, thereby protecting ourselves from possible troubles associated with unintentional short circuits. Next, by unscrewing seven bolts, the protective cover of the steering column is removed, after which access to the ignition switch mount (four bolts with cut-off heads) is opened.

The easiest way to unscrew such screws is to use a hammer and chisel; as a rule, such a tool is needed only to “break” the screws and then they can be easily unscrewed simply by hand. If you don't have a chisel, a drill can help you remove these screws.

At the final stage of dismantling the lock, the immobilizer coil is removed from it and the connecting blocks are disconnected, after which it is easy to pull it out of the mounting socket.

Preventative and repair work

If it is necessary to perform preventive and repair operations, further disassembly of the switch is performed, for which three screws are unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver and the mounting bracket is disconnected from the lock.

Please note that the removal of the locking device drive is prevented by a special cylinder stop. To successfully carry out this procedure, you do not need to completely remove the cylinder - you just need to pull out the locking ball, which is pressed by the spring. By the way, it is this spring that often causes the lock to jam, and if it fails, it can be replaced with a similar spring from the VAZ 2108 lock of the latest modifications.

To gain access to the contact block, it is necessary to remove the switch body, and this procedure is performed by pressing the side plastic latches. On the terminal block, it is necessary to check the condition of the contacts and then remove all detected damage. If traces of scorch are found, it is removed using fine-grain sandpaper. In the event of severe, irreparable melting of the contacts, the contact group is replaced as an assembly. In this case, you will have to spend some time and solder three wires.

One of the most critical in terms of malfunctions is the terminal block. Its disassembly is also not particularly difficult - you just need to bend the latch and fold back the protective cover. Before pulling the wires out of the block, do not forget to first write down their original location. All wires and terminals are inspected for mechanical damage and oxidation that could lead to malfunctions of the lock.

The lock is assembled in the reverse order. When installing the lock, do not forget to recess the rod of the anti-theft device (otherwise installation will be impossible). To do this, you need to insert the key into the lock cylinder and move it from the neutral position “0” to any other position.

In case of a complete replacement of the lock, you should additionally replace the code elements located in the heads of the new keys with the code elements removed from the key heads of the removed ignition lock. In this case, the immobilizer training procedure will not be required.

Click to enlarge the diagram

A – to the (+) “plus” terminal of the battery B1 and B2 – grounding points of the ignition system wiring harness C1 – grounding point of the wiring harness from the ignition coils

1. – M7.9.7 controller 2. – connector for connecting the ignition system harness to the instrument panel harness connector 3. – block with the main 30A fuse 4. – speed sensor 5. – electric idle speed control 6. – air flow sensor 7. – instrument sensor engine coolant temperature readings 8. – engine coolant temperature sensor 9. – throttle position sensor 10. – oil pressure warning lamp sensor 11. – rough road sensor 12. – electric fuel pump relay 13. – fuse (15 A) in the circuit electric fuel pump power supply 14. – ignition relay 15. – fuse (15 A) power supply to the ignition relay 16. – fuse (7.5 A) in the power supply circuit of the vehicle controller 17. – crankshaft position detection sensor 18. – oxygen flow sensor 19. – phase sensor 20. – knock detection sensor 21. – solenoid valve for canister purge 22. – diagnostic oxygen sensor 23. – spark plug coils 24. – spark plugs 25. – injectors 26. 26-27 – connector blocks connecting the ignition coil wiring harnesses to the harness ignition system wires 27. 28-29 – blocks connecting the ignition system wire harnesses with the injector control wire harness

On x, a Lada Priora ignition switch (lock) type 11180-3704010 with an anti-theft locking device is used, blocking the restart of the VAZ 2172 starter without first turning off the ignition and a communication coil of the ignition key transponder with the automobile anti-theft system.

• Ignition switch connection diagram (with key inserted)

At the ignition switch, check the correct closure of the contacts at various key positions (Table 10.4), the operation of the anti-theft device and the presence of communication with the automobile anti-theft system. The voltage from the battery and the Lada Priora generator is supplied to terminal “30”.

To unload the contacts of the ignition switch, relay K4 is installed in the mounting block.

The locking rod of the anti-theft device extends if you set the key to position “0” (off) and remove the VAZ 2171 from the lock. The locking rod is retracted after turning the key from position “0” (off) to position “I” (ignition). The key can only be removed from the lock in position “0”.

The locking device for reactivating the VAZ 2170 starter should not allow the key to be turned again from position “I” (ignition) to position “II” (starter). Turning the ignition key to this position should only be possible after returning the key to the “0” (off) position.

• Switched circuits at different key positions

On Lada Priora cars, an ignition switch (lock) type 11180-3704010 is used with an anti-theft locking device, a blocking for re-starting the starter without first turning off the ignition and a communication coil for the ignition key transponder with the car's anti-theft system.

The ignition switch is checked for correct closure of the contacts at different key positions, operation of the anti-theft device and the presence of communication with the car anti-theft system.

The voltage from the battery and generator is supplied to contact “30” (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Connection diagram of the ignition switch (with the key inserted)

To unload the contacts of the ignition switch, a “K4” relay is installed in the mounting block.

The locking rod of the anti-theft device extends if you set the key to position “0” (off) and remove it from the lock.

The locking rod is recessed after turning the key from position “0” (off) to position “I” (ignition).

The key can only be removed from the lock in position “0”.

The starter restart locking device must not allow the key to be turned again from position “I” (ignition) to position “II” (starter).

Turning the ignition key to this position should only be possible after returning the key to the “0” (off) position.

Features of the ignition switch on Priora

The Priora ignition switch is a unit equipped with an anti-theft device and a restart blocker for the starter mechanism. As can be seen from the diagram, the voltage from the battery is supplied to output 30 of the VAZ ignition device. To ensure protection of the unit circuit, relay K4 is installed in the fuse block. When the ignition key on a Priora is set to position 0, the locking rod of the anti-theft mechanism extends. The key can only be removed in this position.

Different circuits are activated in different key positions:

1. I. In accordance with the connection diagram of the connection wires, in this position the operation of the motor control system, the excitation circuit of the generator unit, optics, and alarm are activated. The instrument panel, windshield cleaning system, and power windows are also included, if included in the package.
2. II. In this position, all components activated in position I work, as well as the starter device (video author: Alexey Wolf).

What is the device?

The ignition switch is a special device that supplies direct current to the starter traction relay. Such impulses come from the battery and are activated when the lock is turned on. Without the correct operation of the device, the car will not function fully.

Design Features

The mechanism includes two main parts. The ignition key is placed in the lock cylinder, which puts the car into operating mode and activates the lock itself. The second part is the contact group. It closes in a certain sequence, depending on the position of the key in the cylinder.

Why the system might break down

The need to replace the lock may arise for a number of the following reasons:

• wear and tear of individual parts. Burnouts or oxidation of the system drives are common;
• incorrect contacts. Violation of such circuits leads to combustion, oxidation and lack of working abilities;
• cylinder wear. The breakdown is manifested by difficulties when using the key;
• Lost car key. A trivial but compelling reason for replacement.

Possible malfunctions of the protection system and ways to eliminate them

If the ignition switch fails on a VAZ 2170, many motorists may confuse this problem with a breakdown of the ignition coil or, for example, the ignition module. But as for the 3Z specifically, its repair or replacement is carried out only if the key is not moved to position I or the steering wheel is not blocked after the key is removed. The key must always return to position I after starting the engine. If this does not happen, then you can either repair or replace the ignition switch.

Repair instructions

The location of the 3Z is known to everyone - this unit is located directly under the steering wheel. To properly replace or repair a device, you must follow the instructions:

1. First, disconnect the battery and remove the plastic steering column cover, which is secured with bolts.
2. Next, press out the fastening and disconnect the connector with the 33 wiring from the control panel wiring block. When unplugging, be careful not to damage the plug.
3. Having done this, you will also need to disconnect the plug with the 3Z wires from the connector with the wiring of the immobilizer control system. Using a hammer and chisel or a drill, you need to remove the four breakaway screws and remove the assembly from the steering column. You can't just unscrew these bolts. VAZ engineers decided to use this method of installing the protection in order to protect car owners from possible thefts. This method of fastening, as you can guess, makes it very difficult to dismantle the protection, so at this stage you will have to tinker. In any case, the bolts can be dismantled or drilled out, but instead you will have to purchase new ones in advance.
4. After completing these steps, you can bend the connector mount with wiring from the 3Z. The terminals with wires are removed from this connector. Next, you need to compress the latches again and dismantle the plastic cover of the device itself. If you plan to simply change the node, then this can be done at this stage. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with more detailed information on repairs - it is quite possible that simple steps will restore the unit’s functionality and save money.
5. So, if you decide to repair the mechanism, then at this stage you need to press out two more plastic clips and remove the contact group from the cover.
6. Next, it is necessary to carry out a thorough visual diagnosis of the contacts. If you notice that the contacts have oxidized or burnt, you can restore their functionality by cleaning them using fine-grained sandpaper. Get rid of oxidation and plaque, but do not go too hard so that the contacts do not wear off. If the damage to the contacts is too severe, then cleaning will not solve the problem - you will only need to change either the contactor itself or only the contact group.
7. If everything worked out with the contacts, then you can assemble and install the protection. During assembly, pay attention to the position of the terminals with the wiring in the connector; under no circumstances should they be mixed up.
8. After completing these steps, install the locking device back into place, while pre-sinking the locking rod of the anti-theft unit. To do this correctly, install the key in the 3Z and turn it to any position, the main thing is that it is not in the “0” position. If the key is replaced, then the transponders must also be changed - these are special electronic code components on the head of the key. If you do not do this, then you will also have to carry out the training procedure, as well as change the lock cylinder on the trunk and doors, and this is a rather labor-intensive process. Otherwise, you will have to use the old key to open the doors and trunk and the new one to start the engine. Agree, this is completely inconvenient, but this is only relevant for those car owners who have changed their license plate.

Video “Detailed instructions for replacing the seal”

Visual instructions on how to replace a unit at home are given in the video below (author - channel In Sandro's Garage).

The ignition switch on a Lada Priora car starts the engine. In order for it to start, the machine needs to be given a command. The price of a part for a Priora car is from 1,800 rubles. Replacing the ignition switch is a simple procedure that a beginner can handle.

The driver, turning the key in the lock with the immobilizer in several different positions, gives the command to turn on the ignition or start the engine. Only after this everything starts to work: the starter turns, the crankshaft begins to move, and finally the spark plugs give a spark for the first portion of the air-fuel mixture. But the operation of all these parts may not take place due to a malfunction of the ignition switch on the Priora.

If the car does not start, and you are sure that the components are working properly and the battery is charged, you will have to remove it in any case to inspect and identify the fault. Repairs can be done by anyone; it’s enough to understand all the steps in detail. If it does not help, then the ignition switch needs to be replaced.

How to change and remove it on a Lada Priora car and how many actions need to be performed, you will learn from the article.

Once the ignition switch is turned, the car remains in the ignition even when you remove the key. Unfortunately, Priora is not deprived of this; as the lock wears out, this happens.

How long it will work depends on how you use it. If you use force once, you can break the ignition switch.

Connector to the ignition switch Kalina, Priora, Granta, Chevrolet Niva (4 terminals assembled with wires) “mother”

Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending the connecting connector for connecting to the ignition switch, in the “Comment” line indicate your car model, year of manufacture.

The ignition switch for VAZ-1118, 2170, 2190, 2123 is a complex device designed to control the power supply to the vehicle systems, prevent the battery from being discharged and ensure the engine starts from the starter system.

The castle includes two components:

– mechanical, represented by a lock cylinder;

– electrical, which is a set of contacts that close electrical impulses when the key is turned in one way or another.

Connecting block 1118-3704005АХ with 4 contacts, assembled with female wires, is one of the elements of the ignition system harness, connected to the ignition switch connector of cars of the Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, Chevrolet Niva family. Can be used to make your own cable. The contacts are already crimped onto the wires (wire length 100 mm) and inserted into the connector, you can install them on the car.

The ignition switch on VAZ-1118, 2170, 2190, 2123 has three modes:

– Mode “0”. In this position, the key can be easily removed, and the lighting, emergency lights, and audio system work.

– Mode “1”, fixed. It is no longer possible to remove the key from this position; when it turns on, the ignition system is turned on and power is supplied to all systems except the starter.

note

But it is worth considering that keeping the key in mode “1” for a long time can lead to battery discharge.

This position is used when turning on the starter, so that the running fuel pump pumps up the required pressure to ensure further ideal operation of the starter.

– Mode “2”—activation of the starter system.

Malfunctions of the ignition switch VAZ-1118, 2170, 2190, 2123

– Oxidation of contacts always leads to serious damage (usually due to moisture and dampness in the machine);

– Burnout of contacts, which occurs due to sudden surges in voltage. Voltage drops usually occur when the power unit is started, during which the temperature inside the system rises sharply, causing the insulation to simply burn out

That's why it's so important to approach the launch issue wisely

- Mechanical damage. If, when you are about to turn the key, you notice that it has become more difficult to do so than usual, it means that something happened to the lock cylinder, perhaps it was simply clogged with dirt or dust, or maybe there was a defect at the factory that came to light only now.

If the problem lies in burnout or oxidation, then when you turn the key in the lock, you will not see any reaction from the ignition system. In this case, you just need to replace the contacts without changing the entire lock; if the defect in the wires is not severe, then you can get by with cleaning the contacts.

When the ignition key of the VAZ-1118, 2170, 2190, 2123 is in position O - “off”, all contacts must be open.

In position II - “starter”, contacts 15 and 50 should be closed (the resistance between terminals C and D is close to zero).

Designation of the terminals on the ignition switch (lock) block: A - pin 30; C - contact 15; D - pin 50

Replacing the contact carrier 2190-3704005АХ (4 PIN) assembled with wires, which is an element of the controller harness (ignition system), connecting the ignition switch, through the block in cars of the Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, Chevrolet Niva family can be done independently, without contacting specialized services service.

Important

Other article numbers of the product and its analogues in the catalogues: 111803704005АХ, 219003704005АХ.

VAZ-1117, VAZ – 1118, VAZ – 1119 “Kalina”, VAZ 2170, VAZ -2171, VAZ -2172, LADA GRANTA, VAZ 2123.

Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to independently replace the connector for connecting to the ignition switch on the controller harness in a car of the Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta family.

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Standard ignition switch - article number, price, how it works, device

The module on Priora does not work directly with the components that initiate the engine start. For it to work properly, you need to wait a few seconds before starting until the fuel pump creates the required pressure. On the Priora, only wires are connected to it - the paths along which messages pass from the ignition switch to the electronic control unit.

The ECU of the Priora car just receives data about the position of the key and can crank the starter if this operation is “not blocked”. Due to a breakdown, it can only turn on the ignition, leaving the battery to work.

After the ECU key has turned, it gives commands to several parts at once. When you turn on the second position, let the fuel pump run for 5 seconds so that it pumps fuel from the tank closer to the engine.

When the starting process itself begins, the starter rotates - the force it creates goes to the crankshaft;

the ignition system element converts the low voltage current coming from the battery into a high one so that the spark plugs are “charged” and give a spark at the right moment;

The injector creates the first batch of air-fuel mixture to put it into the chamber, where everything is ready for it - the pistons “move”, the spark plugs spark.

In the module itself, everything is simple - there is a cylinder with a return spring inside, between the coils there is a locking ball that does not allow it to curl up more than necessary, and a locking rod holds the structure in place. Finally, as a complication of the entire system, there is an “immobilizer” - an anti-theft system that you can install yourself. It just takes a long time to set it up.

A regular kit with a master key and several door cylinders (with an immobilizer) costs from 1,800 - 2,000 rubles, catalog number - 2170-3704005. A set without a master key (without an immobilizer) can be purchased for 1,200 – 1,400 rubles, article number -2170-3704006.

Priora won't start, starter turns

Possible malfunction

Diagram and pinout of the ignition switch on Priora

The diagram looks like this:

Using the diagram, you can track the presence of an immobilizer, as well as a blocker for excessive cranking of the starter. It starts from the battery - the pinout transmits voltage from it to point 30. Here the connection to K4 is a fuse relay. The contact group of the ignition switch of a Priora car will only work if the locking rod is in place and holds the key.

There are two positions in the diagram – I (ignition) and II (engine start). Replace the ignition switch of the Lada Priora in accordance with this diagram.

Basic faults

Usually the module is “sinned” when the battery is dead - nothing will turn on, even the ECU will not receive a signal. You can solve everything by charging the battery or installing a new one. But if you are sure that the key in the ignition switch has turned, but there is no “effect”, then the problem is in the module.

• Firstly, one of the dangerous problems is a faulty locking rod. As was said, it does not allow you to remove the key when it is in position I or II. If you accidentally notice that the key falls out, try to replace the block as soon as possible. It happens that replacement is taken due to an immobilizer error. This can only be done as a last resort, having accurately checked all possible “escape routes”, because reconfiguring the ECU will take a lot of time.
• Secondly, the wiring connected to the unit may become damaged, and it will become “cut off” from the Priora’s electronic control unit. It is necessary to ring all sections of the wiring and change it. In the same group of problems is the fuse relay. If the fuse is blown, the engine will not start.
• Thirdly, the spring may become deformed or break. This manifests itself in the fact that after cranking the starter and starting the engine, the key does not return to position I.

Possible causes of malfunction

If you absolutely require a basic function from your cigarette lighter, but the head does not heat up, it makes sense to try replacing it.
One of the possible problems is lack of heating. In this case, power is supplied to the fuse assembly itself without problems. The head may stop heating after prolonged use.

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If replacing the cartridge does not change anything, then the problem should be looked for in the car's electrical network, which powers the cigarette lighter.

When diagnosing, carefully examine the condition of all contacts and connections.

It is important to eliminate the possibility of some wires burning out.

Particular attention should be paid to some elements. In case of self-assessment of the condition of the cigarette lighter assembly, experienced motorists and specialists in the field of auto electricians are advised to look at:

In case of self-assessment of the condition of the cigarette lighter assembly, experienced motorists and specialists in the field of auto electricians are advised to look at:

By checking all these components, you can determine exactly where the problem is coming from.

Experience shows that most often the fuse blows. Finding it and replacing it will not be difficult. But if the fuse is intact, then check whether the socket itself has blown. This occurs when using a faulty plug from the connected source, as well as when using inappropriate devices.

Removing and installing (replacing) the ignition switch on a Priora

Before removing and replacing the module, have a few tools ready:

1. chisel;
2. hammer;
3. pliers;
4. key "10";
5. Phillips screwdriver.

Replacing the Priora ignition switch is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Put the car on the handbrake, remove the negative from the battery.
2. Remove the steering column covers - to do this, insert a screwdriver into the small technical holes and unscrew the bolts.
3. In front of you will be a steering shaft, to which the ignition module is attached with four bolts. They are twisted very tightly - so that potential hijackers would have to waste time removing the module; to do this, they would have to tear off all the fasteners. Place the chisel under the bolt head and tap the chisel with a hammer until the bolt head begins to rise.
4. By lifting the threaded fasteners, you can unscrew them - but for convenience, it is better to do this not with your hand, but with prepared narrow pliers - there is a lot of space for standard ones.
5. As you unscrew each bolt, try to “catch” the falling module.
6. All that holds it is a block of wires. Disconnect it, then install a new ignition module for the Priora car instead of the old one. Tighten the fasteners just as tightly, but try not to tear them off when tightening.

Removing the ignition switch, replacing the contact group and immobilizer coil

We remove the ignition switch to replace it if its cylinder mechanism fails, to replace the contact group of the switch, and also if it is necessary to replace the immobilizer coil. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. To access the ignition switch, remove the upper and lower steering column casings (see “Removing the steering column switches, switch connector and spiral cable drum device”).

Remove the sealing ring from the ignition switch. Having released the pad lock...

...disconnect the ignition switch contact block from the instrument panel wiring harness block. Use a slotted screwdriver to pry up the edge of the immobilizer coil wire block...

...and disconnect the wiring block of the instrument panel harness from it. The heads of the ignition switch mounting bolts are torn off.

Loosen the bolts using a chisel... ...and unscrew the bolts with pliers

Remove the bracket and ignition switch from the steering column.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws...

...and remove the ignition switch bracket.

We take out the locking rod of the anti-theft device. Turn the key in the ignition switch...

...and remove the locking rod drive and the drive spring.

Remove the stopper with the spring from the drive. We push the cylinder mechanism out of the switch body.

We take out the locking ball and cylinder mechanism.

We remove the locking ball spring from the hole in the mechanism.

Prying it with a screwdriver. ... we disengage the two plastic latches of the cover of the ignition switch wire block and open the cover. We mark the wires located in the block.

Using a thin awl or stiff wire, bend the locking tendrils of the wire tips...

...and remove the wires from the block. Remove the insulating tube from the wires.

Squeeze the three plastic latches with a screwdriver. ...remove the contact group from the switch body and bring the wires out through the holes in the body.

Prying it with a screwdriver. ...we disengage the three plastic latches...

Lock lighting

Illumination of the ignition switch in a Priora car is a convenient modification in the dark. There are ways to tune anything inside your Priora. One of the most practical ways is to help yourself find the ignition switch by highlighting it. But getting a flashlight or phone out takes a long time and is impractical. Instead, you can put a backlight on this part, which will also be aesthetically pleasing to the car owner.

Such an upgrade can be purchased on Chinese websites - preferably only for Priora. To connect, climb under the steering casing, place the LED strip, and the wire soldered to it needs to be “powered.” When connected to contacts No. 8 or No. 9, when the dimensions are turned on, the backlight turns on.

Button instead of ignition switch

As a replacement, the Lada Granta and many foreign car models have a START-STOP button. We can say that the start button is a matter of driver convenience, but if you want to make your car unique, you can use different options:

• removing the standard module - the steering wheel will not be blocked;
• The standard module remains, but the steering wheel lock does not work;
• The standard module remains in place, the steering wheel lock works.

You can supply a pre-formed kit, or assemble it yourself - it will be several times cheaper, but not faster.

The cost of the set will be from 1,300 to 1,800 rubles, individual parts in total from 300 to 500 rubles.

How to put

To place a button instead of a module, perform the following steps:

1. Remove the negative from the battery.
2. Remove the steering casing and the plastic panel to the right of the pedal assembly.
3. In accordance with the instructions that came with the start button, connect the wires to the block.
4. Connect the green cable from the central unit to the brake pedal switch connector.
5. The wire from the button should be connected to the three-pin connector of the central unit.
6. If you need to disable the steering lock, cut off only the part of the key that fits into the cylinder and leave it in the lock in the first or second position.
7. Place the key at the junction of the casing.
8. Test the Start-Stop button with a few presses.