Replacing the ignition switch Lada Kalina: how to remove and replace, cylinder

Egnition lock

The ignition switch is a complex device designed to control the power supply to the vehicle systems, prevent the battery from discharging and ensure that the engine starts from the starter system. The castle includes two components:

• mechanical, represented by a lock cylinder;
• electrical, which is a set of contacts that close electrical impulses when the key is turned in one way or another.

The ignition switch on the Lada Kalina has three modes:

1. Mode "0". In this position, the key can be easily removed, and the lighting, emergency lights, and audio system work.
2. Mode "1", fixed. It is no longer possible to remove the key from this position; when it turns on, the ignition system is turned on and power is supplied to all systems except the starter. But it is worth considering that keeping the key in mode “1” for a long time can lead to battery discharge. This position is used when turning on the starter, so that the running fuel pump pumps up the required pressure to ensure further ideal operation of the starter.
3. Mode “2”—activation of the starter system.

The Lada Kalina ignition switch kit contains a key for the lock, which serves not only in its straight profile, but also as a key for the doors and trunk.

Ignition switch malfunctions

Like any electronic device, the ignition switch of the Lada Kalina is subject to frequent breakdowns. Malfunctions can occur for a variety of reasons, the most common of which are the following.

• Oxidation of contacts always leads to serious damage (usually due to moisture and dampness in the machine)
• Contact burnout , which occurs due to sudden voltage surges. Voltage drops usually occur when the power unit is started, during which the temperature inside the system rises sharply, causing the insulation to simply burn out. This is why it is so important to approach the launch issue wisely.
• Mechanical damage . If, when you are about to turn the key, you notice that it has become more difficult to do so than usual, it means that something happened to the lock cylinder, perhaps it was simply clogged with dirt or dust, or maybe there was a defect at the factory that came to light only now.

If the problem lies in burnout or oxidation, then when you turn the key in the lock, you will not see any reaction from the ignition system. In this case, you just need to replace the contacts without changing the entire lock; if the defect in the wires is not severe, then you can get by with cleaning the contacts.

Damage to the lock cylinder also occurs when someone tries to steal a car. In any case, the lock needs to be changed completely. But how to do it yourself?

Resynchronization of remote control codes

In cases where the remote control buttons are pressed outside the range of the radio channel, the “floating” code counter in the remote control goes out of synchronization with the counter in the system control unit. If the number of button presses outside the signal reception area of ​​the system exceeds 1000, the system stops responding to remote control commands. In this case, the remote control training procedure should be repeated.

Updated August 01, 2013

Due to the increasing number of cases of lost training (master) keys for car owners of Kalina, Priora, Grant, Niva-Chevrolet, we are introducing a new type of service: registration of working keys in these cars, without a master key!

Usually in such cases, it is necessary to change a set of blocks: ECU (electronic engine control unit), APS unit, glass control unit, ignition switch complete with door cylinders and new keys, etc.

Now in our company you can register a working key with buttons without a training key, and for an additional fee you can receive a new training (red) key for your car. For this procedure, you need to come by car and leave it while the work is being carried out. The work includes dismantling the necessary units (ECU, APS, etc.) from the car, programmatically changing the data, installing the units on the car and registering the keys. We emphasize that a key registered in this way will cost more than registering the remote control yourself if you have a training key, but naturally cheaper than buying and replacing a set of blocks with new ones.

Update January 05, 2014

Attention! It is now possible to make a duplicate chip for autostart using a working key with remote control buttons! A master or training key is not required. The chip obtained in this way can be used both for installation in the immobilizer bypass unit to implement autostart, and for everyday use, starting the engine of Lada Kalina, Priora, Niva-Chevrolet cars

Such a duplicate is more expensive than a regular chip, which can be registered using a master key, but this is a real solution in cases where the master (training) key is lost

To create a duplicate, you need a car, a working key with remote control buttons (and it doesn’t even matter if it is partially faulty, for example, the buttons don’t work, etc., the main thing is that the ignition key starts the engine). The entire copying procedure takes 10-15 minutes.

Contact us by phone in contacts.

Replacing the ignition switch yourself

Shear bolts

Unfortunately, the Lada Kalina cannot please you with its reliability and durability; many systems, including the ignition switch, fail within a couple of years, so in order to save on repairs at expensive car repair shops, it is better to find out how to do it yourself. So, having come to the conclusion that the lock needs to be changed, we buy a new lock, which costs around a thousand rubles. In the kit we will receive three cylinders (on the doors and trunk) and 2 keys. You also need to purchase four shear bolts , since the old ones will no longer be suitable after dismantling.

In addition to the product itself, we will need the following tools:

• chisel;
• two screwdrivers, a flat one for removing the clamps and a cross for the bolts;
• 10mm wrench or 10mm ratchet;
• key to 8.

Let's get started

1. First you will need to disconnect the battery cable from the negative.

2. Armed with a cross-head screwdriver, unscrew the fasteners on the steering column. To make it more convenient for you, we immediately warn you: there are two bolts on the right and left sides (3), two at the bottom in the middle (2), and two at the very bottom (1). There is also a self-tapping screw located directly under the steering wheel (4).

3. We take out the clamps holding the steering column switches. We dismantle the switches.

4. Now we need the help of a chisel. It is necessary to apply blows of medium power and unscrew the bolts. Bolts, as a rule, become very sticky after several years of use, so you will have to work hard. As soon as you notice that the bolts begin to move out of place, you can pick up pliers and continue to work only with their help.

5. We need to get to the lock connectors, of which there are only two (main power and immobilizer antenna). The connectors are hidden under the console casing. To gain access to the connectors, you need to slightly pull the wiring harness away from the lock and pull them out.

6. Unplug the connectors, and then remove the ignition system switch.

Now we replace the old lock with a new one and reassemble it in the reverse order. But don’t forget that you need to do a little more magic on the doors and trunk, changing the lock cylinders.

Replacing door cylinders

To remove the old cylinders on the doors and trunk, you need to carry out a simple job consisting of several stages.

3. After removing the casing, you need to use a 8mm head to unscrew the iron figured holder (3 bolts).

4. We reach for the rods and, using a screwdriver, remove them.

5. We get to the bolts that secure the handle, the bolt is screwed in from the end, and if you look deep into the door there will be a nut number 8, unscrew that too.

6. Carefully pull out the door handle.

7. We take out the larva, having first found the latch and pressed it with something very thin.

The tailgate lock can be removed a little easier:

1. Remove the door trim and see the lock system.

2. Unscrew the two nuts by 8 and tear off the system in which the larva “sits” from the rod.

3. We disassemble it and take out the cylinder (when disassembling it is better to remember where and how everything is attached, there are many small parts.

Bottom line

Replacing the ignition switch generally takes a little over an hour. To perform this work, you do not need fundamental knowledge or special auto mechanic equipment; you just need a little attention, careful study of simple instructions and a basic set of tools, such as a chisel, screwdrivers and a wrench. We hope that with this article we helped you save money on a car repair shop. We wish you good luck and good performance of the new ignition switch!

The ignition switch is an important component of a car. It controls the power supply and allows the engine to start. In Kalina, this element fails quite often. Replacing it is not difficult.

Causes of breakdowns

Faulty contacts are a common cause of ignition switch failure.

Being an electromechanical device, the ignition switch of the Lada Kalina most often fails for the following reasons:

1. Due to sudden surges in voltage, contacts burn out. At the moment the unit is started, there is a sharp increase in temperature in the system, which leads to burnout of the insulating layer.
2. Oxidation of contacts due to increased dampness in the interior can lead to breakdown.
3. Mechanical damage . Exposure to dust and dirt, manufacturing defects and careless operation lead to increased wear of the unit.

Signs of breakdown

Another common malfunction is a broken return spring (sometimes it just flies off).

In this case, the “symptoms” depend on the cause of the malfunction:

1. In case of mechanical failures, turning the key becomes more difficult . This indicates a malfunction of the lock cylinder.
2. Oxidation or burnout is manifested by a lack of response from the system when the key is turned. In this case, troubleshooting can be reduced to cleaning or replacing contacts .

Replacement process

A new ignition switch can be purchased either separately or in a set with cylinders for doors and trunk.

The procedure for replacing the ignition switch on Kalina involves the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative side .
   You can also remove the positive terminal, but it is better to disconnect the negative terminal.
2. Take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the bolts located on the steering column. 1st and 2nd bolts. 3 fastening bolt. 4 and 5 bolts.
3. We dismantle the steering switch clamps.
   We remove the switches themselves. We remove the plastic covers and gain access to the switches.
4. Unscrew the bolts using a chisel.
   The fact is that after several years of use they get stuck significantly, and therefore you will have to work hard here. As a rule, the ignition switch is fixed with bolts with shear heads - you can’t do without a chisel.
5. As a result, you will have access to the lock connectors.
   There will be only two of them here: the immobilizer antenna and the main power supply. They are located under the console cover. To gain access to the connectors, lightly pull the wiring harness away from the lock and then simply pull them out. Disconnect the terminal blocks.
6. Having opened the connectors, turn off the ignition switch.
7. We install a new lock, and then perform reassembly. We tighten the bolts and check the operation of the ignition switch. We tear off the bolt heads to make sure that the lock works.

After installing a new lock, do not forget about the doors and trunk, you now have different cylinders.

To avoid having to deal with programming the chip of a new key, you can simply change the key in the key fob body.

Removing and disassembling the ignition switch Lada KalinaVAZ 11173-11183-11193

Communities Lada Priora Lada Priora Club Blog Ignition switch wires

We remove the ignition switch to replace its assembly, as well as to replace the contact group of the switch or the APS coil. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. We remove the steering column switches (see “Removing the steering column switches”). The heads of the ignition switch mounting bolts are cut off. That's why..

...unscrew them using a chisel. Loose bolts can be removed using pliers.

Remove the bracket from the steering column...

...and the ignition switch. Use a slotted screwdriver to pry up the clamp of the APS coil wire block...

...and disconnect the coil wiring block from the APS block wiring block.

By pressing the block latch... ..disconnect the ignition switch contact block from the wiring harness block.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws...

...and remove the ignition switch bracket.

We take out the locking rod of the anti-theft device. Turn the key in the ignition switch...

...and remove the locking rod drive. We remove the rod spring from the drive...

...and a stopper with a spring. We push the cylinder out of the switch body...

...and remove the locking ball.

Remove the cylinder from the switch body.

We remove the locking ball spring from the hole in the cylinder.

Using a screwdriver we pry off the two plastic latches of the wire block cover...

...and open the lid. We mark the wires located in the block.

Using a thin awl or stiff wire, bend the locking tendrils of the wire tips...

...and remove the wires from the block.

Remove the insulating tube from the wires.

Squeezing the three plastic latches with a screwdriver… ..remove the contact group from the body…

...and bring the wires out through the holes in the housing.

Using a screwdriver we pry off the three plastic latches...

...and disconnect the contact group.

Remove the moving part of the contact group.

By pressing the moving contact and turning it counterclockwise...

...remove it from the body.

Remove the contact spring.

Using a screwdriver...

...remove the APS coil. We assemble and install the ignition switch in the reverse order. We install the moving part of the contact group like this...

...so that the wide protrusion of the movable contact is located opposite the protrusion on the cover with the fixed contact... ...and the protrusion on the lock cylinder must fit...

...into the recess on the body of the moving part of the contact group.

..

220

221

223 ..

Training procedure:

Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:

• the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
• the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
• a new system password is written into the training key;
• all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
• The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.

The training procedure is applied in the following cases:

• activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
• erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
• changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
• remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.

Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.

Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place.

Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.

How to train (Retrain) the immobilizer on a VAZ 1117-VAZ 1119?

Note! After you carry out the entire immobilizer training (Retraining) procedure, the following will happen to the car, namely: The anti-theft system will turn on if it was previously disabled, the system will also change the password to a new one, which will be selected randomly and which will be automatically recorded on the training key, and also all previous passwords will be erased from the immobilizer memory and with the old password (with the old training key on which the old password is written) you will not be able to disable the anti-theft system of the car, in addition, those working keys with which you trained the system will be written into memory !

1) Before starting the training, let’s note one fact: in fact, you are not training the immobilizer as such, but simply flashing working keys for it, so that the car can start not only with one key (Over time, keys are lost) but with two, or even if you want from three, but you won’t find exactly the same working keys in car dealerships, they will need to be made to order from the manufacturer, and what series of key you will need, you can find out on the tag (see photo below) on which the serial number will be written and which came with the car (it should hang on the key) when it was purchased.

2) Let's go further and move on to the key learning procedure itself, first, close all the doors of the car and then insert the learning key into the ignition (The learning key must be without a remote control, because the remote control on which the trunk opening and also opening buttons are located and closing doors, only working keys are equipped) there is a red insert on the end of it (Indicated by an arrow in the large photo) so you definitely won’t confuse it, so this is how it will be inserted, turn the key until all the devices light up (This is the ignition position on) and wait at least 6 seconds, then turn off the ignition by turning the key and make sure that the immobilizer warning lamp (Indicated by an arrow in the small photo) begins to blink very quickly (it should blink 5 times per second), while learning the working keys (Key ) it should continue to blink, if it stops, then either something was done incorrectly, or there is some kind of malfunction with the working key (Maybe it has already been trained by another immobilizer), after checking, remove the key from the lock and insert the working one there.

3) Now turn the operating device to the same state (When all the devices light up) and if the operation is carried out correctly, the buzzer (the buzzer is a part that is built into phones and not only, it can emit a signal, in a regular phone this is a beep, for example) will sound three beeps at the moment when the ignition is turned on, then wait another 6 seconds (more is possible, but not less) and after all this time has passed, the buzzer will sound two more beeps and then turn off the ignition by turning the key and removing it .

Note! If suddenly, after 6 seconds, two signals coming from the buzzer do not ring, and the rapid flashing of the indicator lamp stops, then you either made a mistake somewhere, or the working key has already been trained, or there is some kind of malfunction in the immobilizer, but first of all, try repeating the whole operation again , if this happened to your car!

4) If you take out the working key and the immobilizer warning light continues to flash, then continue working, now you will need to reinsert the training key into the ignition switch and turn it until all the devices light up, then wait for three signals ( They should immediately ring when the key is turned) and wait for two more (After 6 seconds the buzzer will sound them) and finally turn off the ignition (Just do not remove the training key) and wait for 6 seconds for the last signal that the buzzer will give, while the warning lamp should start flashing twice as often, if this is the case for you, then no later than 6 seconds (It is best to do this immediately) after the signal, turn on the ignition again with this key and wait 2-3 seconds, turn it off, within 5 seconds ( No later than) the buzzer should sound three more times and the rapid flashing of the immobilizer warning lamp should stop, after which do not turn on the ignition for at least another 10 seconds and when the time has passed, you can use the working key(s) that were trained again.

Note! It is possible (Not on all cars) after completing all procedures, it will be necessary to re-synchronize the codes, otherwise the controller may not allow the engine to start when the ignition is turned on for the first time. To carry out this procedure, turn on the ignition with one of the trained keys (We are talking about the workers that you trained) and pause for 6 seconds, if the control lamp starts flashing once per second (This indicates that there is an error in the system), then turn off the ignition and wait again for at least 10 seconds, when the time has passed, repeat the operation again and if everything goes well, the lamp will not blink at intervals of 1 time per second (It should be constantly on, not blinking, but after a while it will go out), so if it does not blink, then start the engine and it should start working, but if However, after turning on the ignition and after 3 seconds, the lamp will not go out (And it should go out after a while) and will remain on, this indicates that the anti-theft function of the controller has not been activated and in this case the learning procedure will have to be repeated!

Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.

1. Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
2. Turn off the ignition. The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction. Remove the training key from the ignition switch.
3. Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
4. If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
5. After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.

Kalina car ignition key

The first key, which with the remote control performs the following functions:

• directly working ignition key
• door and trunk lock key
• remote control
• APS-6 immobilizer working key

The second key with a red insert at the end performs the following functions:

• ignition
• key for door and trunk locks
• APS-6 immobilizer training key

The keys have tags (in Figure 1, tags number 2), which indicate the key number. It's better to remove these tags and save them. Using them, it will be possible to produce new keys for the ignition switch of the viburnum by contacting a certified PSSS.

Instructions for learning the second key of the Viburnum fret:

• collect the second key provided when purchasing a new Lada Kalina
• close the doors
• Next, you need to insert the red key into the ignition and turn it on
• Then we wait for 3 sound signals (squeaks), if there are none, then wait 6 seconds and take out the key
• then, immediately within 6 seconds you need to turn on the ignition with the first black key
• after 3 beeps and 2 “pi” signals, remove the key from the ignition
• then, within 6 seconds, turn on the ignition with the second black key
• also, having heard 3 and 2 squeaks, remove the ignition key from the lock
• after which, you need to turn off the ignition, but do not remove the key from the ignition switch of the viburnum
• waiting for 1 squeak
• again, within 6 seconds, turn on the ignition for 5 seconds, and be sure to wait for the signal - the emergency signal should blink and a short beep sound
• turn off the ignition. the red key before the light on the instrument panel goes out.

Correct use of instructions. If the orange icon (car with key) is on or blinking all the time while the second key is learning, then everything is correct. If the icon does not light up or blink, you will have to start all over again.

How to check whether the ignition key has been learned correctly? The correctness of key learning is checked as follows:

1. insert the key into the ignition
2. turn the key to position II of the ignition switch.

In this key position, the car's instrument panels turn on, but the car does not start. If within 7 seconds the orange icon (car with key) does not light up, then the ignition key has been trained correctly. If the first time you slide in a new key, your car does not start, this is not a reason to panic. On its first operational start, the key undergoes final synchronization between the key itself and the controller.

The only way to train the ignition key for a Kalina, or any car in general, is with a completely new key. Those. a key that has never been trained by the immobilizer and has not undergone the learning process with a special training key. You can train working keys only in conjunction with an ECU (electronic control unit), which does not include an anti-theft system, or training can be done with an ECU that has been trained together with the training key used in this type of training.

Warning. The training key should be stored separately from the working key. Use the training key for the Viburnum fret only if you have lost the working key. It is extremely undesirable to lose the training key of the ignition switch; without the training key, learning a new key becomes impossible. Relevant dealer centers do not accept claims in case of malfunction of the control system or if the training key is lost.