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You need to know how to set the idle speed of the VAZ 2106 in order to adjust the carburetor. You can perform this procedure quite quickly with your own hands, if, of course, you have an idea of what a carburetor consists of and the functions of its main components. But first things first, let's start with the saddest thing - the case when suddenly there is no idle speed and the engine starts to stall.
It doesn't matter where you are, at what point! It is important that the program for a small car service is always at hand! And wherever you are, information about business processes and spare parts sales is available. Live easier!
You'll be lucky if this happens close to home. But if you’re on the road, it’s not good enough. On my own behalf, I’ll add that several times I had to remove and disassemble the carburetor while standing on a narrow highway, shying away from passing trucks and highlighting it with a flashlight. A good habit is to take a thermos and a flashlight on the road.
Do-it-yourself Ozone carburetor adjustment
The name “Ozone” came into use with the start of production of the VAZ-2105 car; it was for this model that the Dmitrovgrad Automotive Aggregate Plant (DAAZ) developed a new carburetor for an engine with a capacity of 1300 cubic centimeters. For the Zhiguli “Seven”, DAAZ-2107 carburetor units began to be produced, working with 1.5 liter engines, and they were also installed on the VAZ “Six”.
If the car consumes fuel within normal limits, accelerates normally and does not jerk when driving, it is not recommended to make any additional adjustments with your own hands, especially if the driver does not have sufficient experience in this matter. Adjustment is necessary in cases where:
- increased fuel consumption;
- the engine runs unsteadily (jerks) at idle;
- the engine gains momentum with dips;
- The engine stalls at minimum speed.
Also, the internal combustion engine can malfunction if the fuel supply is poor, and it is difficult to start in cold weather due to an unconfigured starting device.
It is generally accepted that a car owner or any person who is an amateur in the automotive business is able to independently perform the following types of work:
- adjust the position of the float in the float chamber;
- configure the launch system;
- adjust the idle speed;
- Replace the strainer located in the carburetor cover.
The most common and popular procedure is debugging the idle speed; both fuel consumption and engine response largely depend on it.
Let's sum it up
There are dozens of types of breakdowns that lead to a sharp or gradual drop in speed on carburetor cars. But the question is that the equipment turns out to be quite demanding in terms of maintenance, so all the reasons have to be eliminated together. If you always encounter such a problem, it means that this is a specific operation of the carburetor installed in your car. Most likely, only replacing the device will help get rid of the troubles. If the problem only occurred a few times, you should try servicing the fuel system, replacing the filter and installing a new carburetor repair kit.
Cars with this type of injection are gradually giving way to injection systems. They are more reliable, more economical, last longer and do not cause such troubles as carburetors. Of course, there are also many subtleties and features in direct injection that should be kept in mind. But changing a carburetor to an injector is too labor-intensive and expensive. It is better to properly maintain your equipment and ensure its normal operation. Even with very good service, after 1-2 years you will have to go to the service again. Have you ever experienced a sharp drop in engine speed when warming up?
The VAZ 2107 is not the best model among cars in its class when compared with foreign equivalents. However, thanks to its low price and accessible service, the car has been popular throughout the post-Soviet territory for many years. The car was produced from 1982 until 2014. That is, the oldest model is more than 30 years old. During such a period of operation, the owner will be able to encounter all types of faults and investigate most of the causes of problems.
After several years of operation, the VAZ 2107, as well as the almost identical model 2105, begins to show a new character with changes not for the better. Malfunctions associated with the power unit and its body kit are of a different nature, but are symptomatic:
- the engine stalls periodically;
- does not maintain stable speed;
- unstable operation at idle;
- hard to start;
- insufficient power;
- increased fuel consumption.
All malfunctions appear for two reasons: violation of adjustments or wear of parts.
Adjusting the idle speed on Ozone carburetors
Before you begin adjustment work, you should warm up the internal combustion engine to operating temperature; it is also important that the carburetor is clean, without clogged channels. Next we proceed as follows:
- start the engine at idle speed (XX);
- using the quantity screw, unscrewing it, we increase the speed by 100 more than the normal norm;
- we begin to tighten the quality screw until the engine begins to work less steadily, then we turn it back a little, achieving stable operation;
- we find the optimal operating mode of the motor at idle with the quality screw tightened as much as possible, while 850 rpm is considered the norm (from 800 to 1000 is allowed).
With proper adjustment, gasoline consumption in urban areas averages 8.5-9.5 l/100 km, but the engine must be in good working order and the ignition must be set correctly. Even on Ozone carburetors, the solenoid valve jet often becomes clogged; before adjusting the idle mixture, it should be checked and, if necessary, cleaned.
Setting the gasoline level in the float chamber
To adjust the float in the DAAZ carburetor, the entire assembly itself does not need to be removed, but partial disassembly is necessary. To carry out adjustment work, perform the following steps:
- turn off the engine, open the hood;
- dismantle the air filter cover (unscrew three nuts);
- remove the filter housing itself (four more nuts);
- disconnect the choke cable;
- remove the telescopic rod of the starting device;
- unscrew the five screws securing the carburetor cover (they need to be carefully removed and reassembled, it is important not to drop the fasteners into the manifold);
- for ease of operation, disconnect the fuel supply hose;
- turn the lid over and determine the gap between the float and the cardboard spacer, it should be within 6-6.5 mm;
- if the gap differs from the required value, we make the adjustment by bending the tongue;
- It will also be necessary to align the float itself on a plane; it may be beveled relative to the surface of the cover.
When adjusted correctly, immediately after removing the cap, the gasoline in the float chamber is approximately at the level of the middle of the beveled surface of the carburetor body, and the float stroke is about 14 mm.
Setting the Ozone carburetor trigger
A situation often arises when a VAZ-2106 car has difficulty starting in cold weather; the main reasons for this problem are an unregulated starting system or a broken diaphragm. Here you need to know that when the choke is extended, the air damper is completely closed, but when starting, under the influence of vacuum, it opens slightly to a certain angle.
On DAAZ carburetors of models 2105, 2107, for cold starting, a pneumatic valve is installed, which provides a starting gap for the air damper, and this valve has an adjusting screw closed with a special plug. If the throttle angle of the screw is set incorrectly, the proportion of the fuel mixture of a cold engine will be disrupted and starting problems will arise.
There are several ways to adjust; it can be done with the carburetor removed by closing the damper and simulating the vacuum force by pressing your finger. In this case, the gap between the housing wall and the lower edge of the “air” should be within 5-5.5 mm; for measurement, you can use probes, drills or other objects of certain diameters. Also, the starting gap is set between the throttle valve (lower part) and the carburetor body, its recommended value is 0.7-0.9 mm, and the adjusting screw is located at the bottom.
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The secret to easy starting of a cold engine lies in two components: a working car and the correct actions of the motorist. In this article we will look at how to properly start a carburetor engine on choke.
The above shows how not to do it :).
First, a little theory. The main component of the “suction” is the air damper. It is located in the first chamber of the carburetor and is controlled by a cable from inside the car. Its function is to control the flow of air passing through the carburetor. If you close this damper (by pulling the cable handle in the cabin) and start the engine, a vacuum will be created in the first chamber of the carburetor. Due to this vacuum, additional gasoline will begin to be sucked into the carburetor chamber - hence the name “Suction” was born. The fact is that a cold engine needs a fuel mixture rich in gasoline to start. After all, if the engine is cold, gasoline will not evaporate well, which means the content of gasoline vapor in the air will be minimal and the mixture will not ignite. To avoid this, engineers came up with a “suction” (“cold start device” or “cold start system”) - a forced enrichment of the fuel mixture, which compensates for the insufficient evaporation of fuel at low ambient temperatures and, accordingly, a cold engine.
That's all for the theory. Let's move on to action!
Starting a cold engine at sub-zero temperatures: instructions
The following procedure assumes that the car and carburetor are in good technical condition.
- Pull out the handle of the “choke” cable until it stops.
- We press the gas pedal twice and don’t touch it again!
- Depress the clutch pedal.
- Turn the key and turn the engine with the starter.
If everything is in order, the engine should start. If the carburetor starting device is faulty or not adjusted, problems with starting the engine are possible:
Possible difficulties
The engine starts and immediately stalls
In this case, the procedure will be as follows:
- Pull out the handle of the “choke” cable until it stops.
- Press the gas pedal three times and on the last press leave the gas pedal pressed 1/3 of the way.
- Depress the clutch pedal.
- Turn the key and turn the engine with the starter.
- If the engine stalls again, repeat steps from step 2 to step 4. However, with each repeated cycle we add 2 gas pedal presses to step 2. That is, the number of gas pedal presses should be as follows: 3, 5, 7 , 9, 11, 13, 15. When 15 gas pedal presses are reached, further increasing the number of presses is inappropriate.
The engine starts, but starts to stall and the speed drops
We fix it as follows:
- With the engine running, press the “choke” handle into the panel a few millimeters.
Engine won't start
- Pull out the handle of the “choke” cable until it stops.
- We remove the handle of the “choke” cable a few millimeters inside the panel.
- Press the gas pedal three times and on the last press leave the gas pedal pressed 1/3 of the way.
- Depress the clutch pedal.
- Turn the key and turn the engine with the starter.
- If the engine does not “grab”, remove the “choke” handle a few more millimeters and repeat steps from step 3 to step 5.
- If the engine starts and stalls, we repeat the steps from step 2 to step 4. However, with each repeated cycle we add 2 gas pedal presses to step 2. That is, the number of gas pedal presses should be: 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15. When 15 gas pedal presses are reached, further increasing the number of presses is inappropriate.
Instructions for adjusting the starting device on Solex
is
here
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If the recommendations described above did not help, then your car probably has technical problems not related to the carburetor starting device. These may include:
- The needle valve is leaking or the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber is not adjusted.
- Problems with fuel supply.
- Strong air leak.
- Ignition system malfunction. Including: poor or no spark, faulty spark plugs, faulty high voltage wires.
- Engine malfunction: low compression, timing mechanism is out of order.
Features of Solex carburetors for VAZ-2106 cars
Often, car owners, in order to save fuel and improve dynamic characteristics, install Solex VAZ-21083 or 21073 carburetors on their cars, but these units do not always live up to expectations. As an alternative, the Dmitrovgrad Automotive Aggregate Plant specially developed model 21053-1107010-20, designed to work with 1.5 and 1.6 liter engines; today this carburetor is considered one of the best for VAZ classics. The main advantages that should be noted when installing a 21053-20 carburetor instead of the standard “Ozone”:
- vehicle dynamics are improved;
- it takes less time to warm up the internal combustion engine;
- ensures smooth running of the machine;
- When driving slowly, fuel is saved.
Also, Solex is easy to set up and not capricious, although it also has its drawbacks: you have to buy some spare parts (rods that fit from the Niva, an air filter housing, a thick gasket), and spend additional time on fitting and modification.
What do we have after proper adjustment of the carburetor unit of the “six”?
Checking the adjustments of the fuel mixture preparation unit is the same important maintenance step as monitoring the condition of the car battery . An integrated approach to setting up the carburetor guarantees not only a comfortable mode of movement, but also a lot of useful points:
- An increase in power and a confident increase in speed.
- No failures in the operation of the internal combustion engine in the low and medium speed sector.
- Improved dynamic characteristics - the car picks up speed faster and accelerates in a short time.
- Optimal engine response, which is expressed in the responsiveness of the gas pedal.
The listed qualities make it possible to effectively use the combustible mixture, which is necessary both in urban traffic jams and on country roads. Therefore, proper adjustment of the carburetor unit will help the car gain speed in a timely manner and complete the planned maneuver.
How to adjust idle speed on a Solex carburetor
Just as in the case of “Ozone”, before adjusting the idle speed, the car’s internal combustion engine must be warmed up to operating condition, and both the engine itself and the spark plugs, fuel pump, high-voltage wires must be in good working order, and the air and fuel filters must not be dirty. The air damper should be opened all the way (recess the choke handle all the way), then proceed to adjust the XX using the quantity and quality screws:
- using a large screw (quantity), turning it in, we increase the speed;
- We tighten the quality screw until the engine starts to slow down and work intermittently, then we unscrew it until the engine starts to operate stable;
- Using both screws, we achieve the most optimal mode by setting the idle speed to 850-950 rpm.
After the adjustment operation, you should check the dynamics and stability of the engine while driving: the engine should not stall when the gas is suddenly released, and there should be no dips, jerks or jolts when driving.
If not the valve, then what?
Dirt, low-quality fuel, malfunction of the ignition system - all this separately and in the compartment can affect the idle speed disappearing or becoming unstable. If you have already decided to carry out a full diagnosis, then start with the filters - air and fuel.
If they are heavily clogged, then gasoline or air (these are the main components of the air-fuel mixture) will not enter the carburetor normally. To be more precise, they will hit, but only after overcoming great resistance. And don't forget about the thimble-shaped filter that is installed at the inlet of the carburetor.
The solution is to replace all the filters and not have to worry anymore. But if this does not help, then you have many more faulty nodes. This means it’s time to look at the spark plugs (at the same time, remember how long ago you changed them). Unfortunately, a rare spark plug will last more than 30 thousand km.
And this is about a year and a half of operating the car in average mode. Unscrew the spark plugs, look at the carbon deposits, whether there is any and what color it is. With a long service life, the central electrode of the spark plug wears out and the gap increases as a result. Replace the spark plugs and check if the idle speed is stable.
Does it still stall at idle and not hold the revs? Then the ignition system remains. If you have a contact one, then check the gap in the breaker and set the optimal advance angle. If contactless, then diagnose the switch and Hall sensor.
Nuances and main malfunctions of Solex carburetors
Despite all the positive aspects and advantages, Solex carburetors have their disadvantages and characteristic “diseases”; one of the main disadvantages is problems with idling due to clogging or airing of the channel. Air enters the XX system mainly due to the tight fit of the cover to the body, since over time the metal is deformed, and such a defect can be corrected by replacing the gasket and grinding the adjacent surfaces.
Another common problem with idle speed is a clogged channel, which can only be cleared if you remove the quality adjustment screw. But the whole difficulty lies in dismantling this screw, since it is located deep in the “body” of the carburetor and is held in place by a rubber seal.
Even a completely unscrewed screw does not simply come out of the channel; it can be dismantled using a piece of hollow tube, for example, taken from an old radio. To use the tube as a puller, we make two cuts at the end, then insert the device into the channel, and remove the part we need by twisting it out.
Another typical drawback of Solexes is failure while driving when accelerating the car, which occurs due to the accelerator pump. To correct this defect, car owners most often upgrade the accelerator pump nozzle (“spout” or “elephant” in common parlance), transferring the injection of both tubes to the primary chamber. Solex practically does not cause any other troubles; it serves for a long time and reliably.
Idling is a mode of engine operation when it does not transfer the resulting kinetic energy to the driving units. In other words, the power unit works, but the car stands still.
Self-replacement of DZH
Before changing the device, you should first check that the light bulbs may have burned out, bad contacts, a blown fuse, or damaged wiring. If the reason is a malfunction of the device, then it needs to be replaced. Checking the bulbs and wiring is done with a multimeter.
Tools and materials
To replace the idle speed sensor on a VAZ, you should prepare the tools and necessary materials:
- key on “22” and a key on “24” may be required;
- multimeter;
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- container for oil;
- knife;
- electrical tape;
- chisel;
- hammer.
Stages
Before the replacement procedure, you need to find where the device is located. It should be located on the VAZ 2107 carburetor and injector to the right of the gearbox.
Replacing the VAZ 2107 reverse sensor consists of the following steps:
- First you need to disconnect the wires going to the device.
- Next, you should spin the device. To do this, it is better to use a wrench, since over time the fasteners stick to the crankcase. If the wrench does not help, you can resort to using a chisel and a hammer.
- Then, using a knife, you need to clean the seat from dirt.
- When removing dirt, remove the metal washer and install a new part.
- Having installed the DZH in place, tighten it with the fastening key.
- Then the wires are connected.
This completes the replacement.
Replacing the IAC and IAC are simple operations that can be performed by any car enthusiast. Having learned how to change sensors on the “Seven”, this knowledge can be used when repairing a VAZ 2108.
Setting up XX in the car
Setting the idle speed of the VAZ 2106 serves to perform the following functions:
- Adjustments to the operation of the power plant if the idle speed is lost - to stabilize the engine crankshaft speed.
- Bringing the percentage of carbon monoxide into the environment to normal levels, minimizing the CO content in exhaust gases, because operation of a vehicle with a high level of toxic emissions is prohibited.
This adjustment of the idle speed of the VAZ 2106 will allow you to get rid of excess fuel consumption. If a car enthusiast discovers that the “six” has lost idle speed, then possible malfunctions of the fuel system include the following defects:
- the carburetor idle jet is clogged;
- defective valve system of the electromagnetic idle type;
- The carburetor device was adjusted incorrectly.
The defect is determined in a situation where the VAZ 2106 stalls at idle while driving or due to a sharp press on the foot brake. The defining component in this unit of the product is considered to be the idle jet for passing a jet of fuel, which is optionally equipped with an electromagnetic type valve. There are carburetor models where a plastic plug is installed instead of this element.
In all models, regardless of configuration, cleaning the VAZ “sixth model” idle jet for fuel supply is carried out in the same mode:
- Using a wrench, unscrew either the valve or the plug, having previously disconnected the positive connector.
- We remove the idle fuel jet.
- Using a compressor, we blow through the product line.
- We put it in the landing slot.
- After screwing it in, lightly tighten it with a wrench.
- We connect the positive contact to the valve connector.
- We turn on the ignition, for the convenience of repair work, removing the air mass cleaning filter.
- Before turning on the ignition, disconnect the contact from the solenoid valve, then touch the contact to the socket.
- The sound of a click indicates that current is supplied to the valve input connector, which indicates its serviceability.
- If there is no click upon contact with the connector, then it follows that there is a defect in the valve or its safety device.
The engine does not idle: the main reason
The first thing you need to pay attention to is the solenoid valve. However, it is not installed on all VAZ 2106 carburetors. It is this small device that most often falls into disrepair. Its operating principle is similar to a solenoid relay - there are windings, an armature, and a return spring, but the dimensions are somewhat smaller.
The function of the solenoid valve is to open the path for gasoline to flow (with the throttle valve closed) when the ignition is turned on. And close when disconnected, respectively.
The most common breakdowns of the solenoid valve, as a result of which the idle speed disappears:
- The winding is destroyed, the armature with the needle does not move, fuel is not supplied.
- The fuel nozzle located on the edge of the valve is clogged.
- The valve armature is jammed due to deformation.
You can check this device very quickly; you will need a small piece of wire, stripped from both edges. Connect one end to the positive side of the battery, and connect the other end to the terminal of the solenoid valve. There should be a fairly loud click, but if it doesn’t, then most likely the winding is damaged.
If there is a click, remove the wire connected earlier and turn on the ignition. Place the power connector onto the valve. If there is no click, then the wiring is damaged. In the event of a breakdown, there can be three exits, you can use any:
- If the solenoid valve is completely destroyed, it would be wise to unscrew it and remove the tip (fuel nozzle). And thus get to the nearest store without much difficulty. The price of a new VAZ 2106 solenoid valve is about 100 rubles, so repairs will not be expensive.
- Temporarily connect the output of the solenoid valve to the positive terminal of the battery - if the wiring is damaged. But in this case you will have to remove the wire during each stop.
- It would be much more efficient to run a wire from the solenoid valve output to the “+B” ignition coil contact. The fact is that voltage appears on it only after the ignition is turned on.
Do-it-yourself carburetor idle adjustment
To solve the problem of how to adjust the idle speed on a VAZ 2106, you need to stock up on a set of driver’s tools, although one screwdriver is enough for this technological operation. On the Internet you can watch the “VAZ 2106 idling” video clip about carrying out adjustment work to stabilize the idling speed of the vehicle.
To adjust the idle speed of the “six” carburetor, a number of preparatory conditions must be observed. These include:
- The operation is carried out only on the motor that has reached operating temperature (about 90 degrees Celsius).
- The clearances of the timing valves and ignition contacts (with a contact system) must correspond to the required dimensions.
When adjusting the idle speed of a VAZ 2106 carburetor on a cold engine, the required result cannot be achieved. If there is no idle speed, it will appear only if the correct adjustment conditions are met.
If the VAZ of the “sixth model” stalls at idle, then to find out how to adjust the idle speed, you need to use the following algorithm:
- The process of adjusting the idle speed on a VAZ 2106 car is carried out using two screws for adjustment, the first is the quality screw, the second is the quantity of the mixture.
- In accordance with the factory parameters, the quantitative adjusting screw is locked with a sealed limiter sleeve. To carry out adjustments and when there is no idle speed on the VAZ 2106, the seal is removed and adjustment work is carried out.
- Using a high-quality screw, we achieve a value of 900 rpm, checking the value with the tachometer readings.
- Using the quantity screw, we use a gas meter to set the carbon monoxide value in the range of 0.6-1.3 percent. The circular movement of the adjusting screw changes the number of rotations of the crankshaft of the power unit.
- In this situation, we re-fix the required crankshaft speed parameters with the first screw. If everything is done correctly, then when you sharply press and lower the accelerator pedal, the rotation value should remain stable.
- If all operations are performed correctly, there should be a smooth increase in engine speed and the unit should operate stably.
If the idle speed floats or the VAZ 2106 engine operates spasmodically, that is, jerkily and unevenly, then the unit settings need to be restored. Upon completion of the setup, the power plant should produce stable speed.
VAZ 2106 does not drive without suction | Topic author: Zephira
If I start to release the choke the car stalls.
Denis (Sheba) is a carb))) air jets
Sergey (Fraidun) throw out the carburetor and install an injector. The problems will disappear.
Evgeny (Razelle) what carb costs? I had similar crap, the valves burned out. Try changing the idle speed sensors.
Andrey (Maheshwar) Evgeniy, is this a VAZ 2106, does it have an idle speed sensor? I haven't seen anything before
Evgeny (Razelle) Andrey, I just have a carb with an idle speed sensor
Andrey (Maheshwar) Evgeny, what causes carb?
Andrey (Maheshwar) from 10?
Evgeny (Razelle) Andrey, I won’t lie, roofing felts from 7 or from 5
Andrey (Maheshwar) Evgeniy, that is, do you adjust the speed yourself?
Evgeny (Razelle) Andrey, Carburetors have two versions of the idle speed system: - with an electromagnetic valve (EMV) with an idle jet. Voltage is supplied to the valve when the ignition is on from the fuse box; — with an idle jet installed in a blank holder.
Evgeny (Razelle) Andrey, you set the speed yourself
Ruslan (Roman) you take the carb and clean it. I washed it with all available means and dried it on a radiator. Then you collect it
Raif (Maua) Zhitler magnet. Clean the valves first, then 50 times + - check the magnetic valve by turning it on. If it refuses, throw it away once.
Oleg (Giddonah) Andrey, OPEC there is nothing electronic there, carb is like carb
Stalls when pulling choke
Stalls when pulling choke
Message by Mikhail_Vl. » Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:15 am
Post by Volodya » Wed Apr 11, 2007 1:28 pm
Message by Mikhail_Vl. » Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:29 pm
on a warm engine it works fine at idle and on gas and gasoline. but you pull out the choke and it suddenly stalls.
As I understand it, it is necessary to adjust the moment of turning on/off the microswitch (vacuum valve control), and the opening of the air damper relative to the throttle on the first chamber (by bending the connecting rod).
I don’t have time to try such assumptions. If it works, I’ll write it down myself and send you the instructions I have (from the repair catalogue)
Post by Volodya » Fri Apr 13, 2007 4:40 pm
Post by Propan » Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:38 am
Message by Mikhail_Vl. » Mon Apr 16, 2007 11:03 am
Post by kuwalda4 » Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:12 pm
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