How to replace a rear brake cylinder yourself

Rear brake cylinder VAZ 2114

It’s not uncommon for many car enthusiasts, including the domestic auto industry, to have a problem with their brakes. This type of car malfunction is the most dangerous and there are many reasons for this.

According to their principle of operation, brakes can be:

  • foot hydraulic;
  • manual, mechanical locking.

VAZ 2114 cars are equipped with drum brakes in the wheels in which the rear brake cylinders are installed. But, in other respects, as on all manufactured cars. The only differences can be in the type of blocking element: disk and drum. But also according to the manufacturing technology of the brake cylinders themselves.

Where is the brake cylinder located? The rear cylinder is located at the rear on the inside of the metal casing. In order to find it, just look under the car and above the bridge you will immediately see tubes through which it is simply difficult not to find it.

Location of the rear brake cylinder on a VAZ 2114

What is a brake cylinder and what is its working principle?

The brake cylinder is one of the main elements of the brake system. The rear brake cylinder body is made of alloy. Do not confuse the rear brake cylinder with the master cylinder. The main brake cylinder is designed to convert brake fluid pressure into fluid pressure, and the rear brake cylinder on the wheel is designed to convert brake fluid pressure into brake pressure on the pad. In other words, the rear brake cylinder presses on the pads, thereby stopping the car.

Some tips

  • If you start having problems with the brakes, first of all you need to carry out an external inspection of the vehicle: check the fluid level in the reservoir, make sure that the front/rear cylinders are not leaking. There should not even be stains of brake fluid in the brake hydraulics.
  • “Brake fluid” must be filled with the same brand; it is recommended to completely replace the brake fluid at least once every two years.
  • If faults are identified in the gas turbine engine, and it has already served for at least a year, it is more advisable to replace it completely than to repair it. The same can be said about the rear working cylinders.
  • Before changing the turbocharger, the brake fluid should be removed from it; this operation is usually done using a syringe.
  • Usually a leak in the master cylinder is not visible, but if there is any suspicion that this part is faulty, you should remove the main cylinder - there will be traces of leaks at the rear, and this indicates its faulty condition.
  • If, during an external inspection, cracks were found on the brake hoses, it is better not to take risks and immediately replace the defective parts.

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Which brake brake should I choose?

The modern market is full of different types of rear brake cylinders, so when buying this element, it is not easy to make a choice. Numerous reviews on the Internet will help us with this. Having studied the content on this topic, we came to the following conclusion: By and large, all brake cylinders in the same price category have the same quality, but the rear brake cylinder from ATE turned out to be the highest quality and most desirable. Our Basalt, which is one of the best domestic manufacturers of these products, does not lag behind.

It’s only recently that I started making quality products. The Belarusian company fenox, whose products are, to put it mildly, “unreliable,” even wanted to buy it, but they couldn’t buy it. The products also perform well.

Leveling up

After replacing any cylinder in the vehicle, it is necessary to bleed the brakes. Bleeding on any car always begins with the furthest wheel from the GTZ. On all VAZ cars, first of all, they start pumping the brakes from the rear right wheel, then move to the rear left, right front, and the front left wheel is pumped last. If the brake pedal takes at the very end or is hard, bleeding should be repeated, the work should be done according to the same scheme again.

Signs of a bad rear brake cylinder.

The first and most important sign of a brake cylinder malfunction is a brake fluid leak. But as a rule, the condition of the rear brake cylinder can be fully assessed when removing the drum, so most often it is changed along with replacing the rear pads (How to replace rear brake pads?) and replacing the handbrake cable, which is not good and is fraught with consequences.

Most often, the pistons in the rear brake cylinders become sour, rubber bands break, and the like. In principle, the brake cylinder can be repaired, but it is better to simply replace it with a new one and not waste a lot of time and effort, since the price for them is not outrageous.

FAULTS

  1. The brake fluid leaves the reservoir;
  2. The rear drum is wet, fluid leakage is noticeable;
  3. The braking efficiency has disappeared, the pedal “takes” at the very end of the stroke, sometimes not from the first stroke.
  1. Natural wear and tear;
  2. The cuffs are corroded due to mixing different types of brake fluid;
  3. Poor quality of the part;
  4. The pistons were squeezed out due to severe wear on the pads.

It happens that the pistons inside the housing become jammed. If this happens with the pistons spread apart, the car begins to constantly slow down and the drum overheats. You cannot drive with such a defect; the car must be urgently repaired.

There is one nuance that is worth focusing on. Often, when bleeding the brakes, technicians try to unscrew the bleeder fitting on the cylinder and break off. Even WD-40 doesn't help. This happens due to the fact that over time, the “pumping” begins to boil in the ZTC body. Therefore, before bleeding the brakes, you should have a supply of new replacement parts.

How to replace a brake cylinder?


Removing the Guide Bolts

To replace the brake cylinder we will need a jack, wheel wrench, keys, some brake fluid, wd-40.

  1. First of all, put the car in 1st gear and remove the handbrake.
  2. We use a balloon to loosen the rear wheel and support the front brakes with “shoes” so that the car does not roll away.
  3. Place the jack and remove the wheel.
  4. Unscrew the guide bolts as shown in the figure.
  5. We try to turn the drum by hand. If this doesn’t work, then take a small sledgehammer and a wooden block and apply the block to the surface of the drum and hit the handle with the sledgehammer. We carry out this operation on the entire surface of the “rim” of the drum until we use our hands to move the drum from its place.
  6. After turning it 30-40 degrees, screw the guide bolts back into the drum. The purpose of this procedure is to remove the drum.
  7. After removing the drum, pull the handbrake all the way.
  8. Then remove the cap of the brake cylinder fitting and use an “8” spanner to unscrew the fitting.
  9. We carefully treat the brake pipe fitting with wd-40.
  10. We take the key to “10” and loosen the fitting, after first clamping the tube so that it does not rotate.
  11. We completely turn out the fitting with the key “10”.
  12. Using the same key, we unscrew both brake cylinder fasteners.
  13. We put a rubber cap on the brake fluid pipe.
  14. We take out the cylinder.

The process of replacing the turbocharger and brake fluid

When the tools, new mechanism and fluid are prepared, you can begin dismantling the old VAZ 2114 spare part:

  1. The first step is to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Replacing the master cylinder involves completely removing the old brake fluid - this is best done with a syringe;


    The brake fluid level sensor must be removed

  2. Next you need to unscrew the tubes. It is recommended to support them with a rag to prevent any remaining liquid from getting onto other parts of the car;
  3. In mating, if the thread does not yield, apply lubricant to the master cylinder connection and leave for 2 minutes. After this, you can remove the thread with the 10th key;

Advice! When assembling the system, motorists often confuse brake pipes. To make your work easier, it is recommended to sign them with a marker. This applies to any parts in the VAZ 2114 car.

  1. Once the threads have been removed, dismantling the main unit can begin. Using the “18” socket, you need to remove the nuts that attach the main cylinder to the amplifier;


    Unscrew the marked fasteners

  2. The next step is to replace the cylinder along with the tank (the entire assembly must be replaced). After this, all parts must be returned to their places. Also, do not forget about new fluid, which should be poured into the tank. The replacement takes place quite quickly if two people are involved in installing the tank. The assistant’s task is as follows: he presses the corresponding pedal until the remaining liquid comes out of the system holes.


    By unscrewing the nuts, the cylinder can be removed along with the tank

The vacuum booster may also need to be replaced. In this case, remove the fitting and turn the main unit to the side. After this, you need to unscrew the hose and go into the interior of the VAZ 2114 car, where the pin locking bracket is located. After removing all the fasteners, you can install a new fluid pressure booster.

Correct repair kit for VAZ 2114

Why is it correct, how can a repair kit be wrong? Maybe. Manufacturers of rubber products often assemble sets of gaskets, seals and cuffs according to a principle that only they understand. So, a repair kit for a brake cylinder can contain a dozen plugs, seals and other rubber bands that have nothing to do with the cylinder. And although their price is relatively low, there is still no point in buying a bunch of rubbish for the sake of a few cuffs.

The repair kit for the VAZ 2114 costs about 40 rubles, and includes:

  • three pieces of o-rings with index 2101-350-2051;
  • brake seal 2108 3505033r.

If the working surface of the cylinder is in order and has no corrosion or severe scratches, then the replacement takes place within half an hour along with bleeding the brakes.

Device

The VAZ-2115 uses a brake system in which the operating circuits are divided diagonally. This can significantly increase the degree of reliability and safety of people. In particular, the first of them controls the operation of the front right and rear left brake mechanisms. If it fails, the second circuit is switched on.

In addition, the hydraulic drive operating diagram also includes:

  • vacuum booster;
  • a dual-circuit regulator whose task is to maintain pressure in the brakes located behind.

A sensor is installed on the VAZ-2115 that signals a decrease in brake fluid volumes. It's mechanical. In addition, there is also a parking brake system, which, in turn, has a separate drive that blocks the rear axle if necessary.

As can be understood from the diagram, the system in question is quite complex, and from time to time certain breakdowns occur in it.

To understand what kind of problem arose at one time or another requires quite a lot of experience. However, it is not difficult to make the diagnosis yourself if you use the recommendations below.

Lada 2114 2012 - self-repair

Comments 7

Participate in the discussion can only registered users.

Like brake fluid, tell me =) There is a difference between taking a cheap one and yet one that is more expensive.

This is a very abstract question. You can't feel the difference with your feet. I only took it because of the brand. And her color is not the same as everyone else's. Definitely not a fake.

This is why I asked Mish, the front brake hoses were changed and at that moment we bought the fluid from the common people (turtle-antifreeze synthesis), the fluid was replaced not so long ago, but became dark. It was bought in a hurry without any problems, the main thing is that Dot4, but The manufacturer makes no difference. Now I’m thinking of changing the hoses in a circle and filling in something more solid.

This one doesn't seem to get dark. Most likely your new one is mixed with the old one. Buy Castrol. Bleed the entire system and everything will be ok

Why the wheel mechanisms are not fully released

Most likely, this malfunction will cause the brake pedal to stick. In this case, you will have to adjust it.

In addition, the disappearance of the gap between the piston in the master cylinder and the vacuum booster adjustment bolt may also be the cause. The problem is eliminated by increasing the lumen.

If fuel or oil gets into the brake fluid, the gaskets in the master cylinder sometimes swell. You will need to flush the entire system with new brake fluid and replace seals that have become unusable.

Brake performance is low

The most common reasons for this problem are:

  • brake pads are oily;
  • pistons jam in wheel cylinders;
  • the linings on the blocks have become unusable;
  • the brake system mechanisms overheated;
  • the pressure regulator was set incorrectly;
  • one of the circuits has lost its tightness.

The linings on the brake pads will need to be cleaned using a wire brush, warm water and washing powder.

If the pistons jam, you will have to change the cylinders and bleed the system.

When the linings wear out, they need to be removed and new ones installed.

Overheating of the system is eliminated by immediate shutdown. It will take some time for it to cool completely.

Replacing anthers and caliper guide pins on VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112

First you need to unscrew the front wheel mounting bolts, jack up the car and remove the wheel completely. Then, using a flat-head screwdriver, bend the locking washers of the guide bolts, both from above and from below. Then unscrew the fastening bolt, holding the finger from turning it with a 17 mm wrench.

How to correctly replace the caliper guides of VAZ 2109-2115. How to replace caliper pins

When driving a VAZ

, you can often hear some kind of creaking noise from the front wheels. Where they are.

Inspection of the caliper (guides and boots) on Priora, Kalina, Grant and 2110, 2114

Guide lubrication


caliper
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of pins and boots, video review of repairs. For all cars.

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