Replacing the shank seal of the rear axle Niva Chevrolet ~ autoviber.ru

Attention! We hang and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake pads (see Replacing the rear brake pads).

Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the four nuts on the bolts securing the axle shaft to the beam flange.

Use a slotted screwdriver to bend the locking plates of the axle shaft mounting bolts...

...and remove the bolts.

We fix the wheel with the reverse side on the axle shaft by tightening three nuts several turns.

Holding the wheel, we move it with a jerk...

...and remove the axle shaft assembly with the bearing mounting plate, bearing and locking ring.

We take out the rubber sealing ring of the beam flange.

We insert two bolts into the holes of the brake shield and the rear axle beam so that the shield does not hang on the brake pipe.

We pry off the oil seal using sliding pliers...

Using a tool head of a suitable size with an extension (or a piece of pipe), we press in a new oil seal.

If the axle shaft is deformed, its splines are worn out, or the bearing is worn out, we replace the axle shaft with a new one complete with bearing and locking ring (it is not recommended to replace the bearing or locking ring yourself).

Install the axle shaft in reverse order.

Check the oil level in the rear axle and add if necessary.

Replacing the main gear drive gear oil seal for VAZ Classic, VAZ 2121 Niva

Symptoms: oil leakage from under the rear drive gear shank, traces of oil on the outer surface of the rear axle gearbox.

Possible cause: The main gear drive gear seal is damaged.

Tools: set of wrenches, set of screwdrivers, hammer, two-jaw puller, torque wrench, jack, body supports.

Note. The presence of a slight oil film on the rear axle gear housing is not a reason to replace the oil seal. Visually, the reason looks like oil droplets on the same crankcase.

Do not try to perform the work described below yourself if you are a novice car enthusiast and do not have experience in carrying out such work, since if you replace the drive gear oil seal unqualifiedly, problems with the gearbox may arise, which, in turn, will require considerable costs in paying for the services of a specialized workshop. repair of the rear axle gearbox.

1. Place the car on an overpass or inspection hole.

2. Remove oil from the rear axle.

3. Disconnect the propeller shaft and the reverse drive gear flange.

4. Move the parking brake lever to its highest position.

5. Using a 24mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the shank flange.

Note. It is possible to secure the flange against rotation without activating the parking brake system. For these purposes, insert two bolts into the holes located in the flange of the main gear drive gear. Hold the flange with a suitable tool on these bolts and at the same time unscrew the nut.

6. Using a two-jaw puller, press the gear shank flange off the splines. If there is no removal device, try removing the flange by hand.

7. Remove the washer and flange with the dirt deflector from the shank of the main gear.

8. Using a screwdriver, pry up the oil seal and remove it from the hole in the gear housing.

Note. Before installing a new main gear drive gear oil seal, check the condition of the cylindrical flange surface that contacts the oil seal. Often, rust forms on this surface, and this surface also wears out. These defects should be eliminated by polishing.

If there is a deep groove on the cylindrical surface of the flange, press the oil seal with an offset, that is, so that the oil seal protrudes slightly relative to the end surface of the gearbox neck.

9. Apply grease to the working edge and seating surface of the new oil seal.

10. Press in the new oil seal by hitting it with a hammer through a bushing of a suitable diameter. Do not allow the part to become distorted.

11. Install all parts previously removed from the shank. Replace the shank flange self-locking nut with a new one.

12. Hang up the rear of the car.

13. Disengage the differential axle shaft and gears.

14. Fix the shank flange with the bolts that are screwed into the holes in the flange, then tighten the shank nut with a torque wrench to a torque of 120 N∙m, and then turn the flange by hand. Resistance should be minimal and uniform. The flange should rotate without jamming, clicking or jamming. If these defects are identified, the rear axle gearbox must be repaired using the services of a specialized workshop.

Also make sure that there is no or no axial play in the shank bearings. Even minimal play is not allowed. If play is detected, increase the tightening torque of the shank nut by 20–30 N∙m, and then again check the play and smooth rotation of the flange. However, remember that the total tightening torque should not exceed 225 N∙m, since with a greater force there is a possibility of damage to the spacer sleeve. If the play cannot be eliminated, contact a workshop to repair the rear axle gearbox.

If, with additional tightening of the nut, the torque does not increase, and also remains less than the required value (120 N∙m), then the spacer sleeve has “sagged.” In this case, it must be replaced by disassembling the gearbox in a specialized workshop.

When to change the seal

Replacing the axle seal is not tied to a specific mileage, but is done in connection with the following defects:

Transmission oil leakage from the rear axle of a Chevrolet Niva. It is characterized by the appearance of oil stains on the brake casing and the “stocking” on the side where the axle shaft seal has lost its seal.
In case of accidental damage to the seal when replacing the axle bearing. Happens when a part is pulled out of its socket.

A distinction should be made between transmission oil leakage from the axle seal on either side of the rear beam and from the gearbox shank where the driveshaft is secured. In the second case, greasy stains and dirt cover the rear axle gear housing, located in the middle.

If for various reasons you need to replace the axle bearing, then you should also change the oil seal at the same time. This will save you from having to disassemble the unit again due to leakage of the old part. The part costs mere pennies, its catalog number for the Chevrolet Niva is 2110-2301034 (right) and 2110-2301035 (left), and the overall dimensions are as follows:

outer diameter - 57 mm;

width - 9 mm;

The diameter of the hole along the protruding rubber (or silicone) edge is 35 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for DIY replacement

After installing the vehicle on the inspection hole, it is secured using anti-recoil devices. It is recommended to disable the handbrake first. To remove the old seal, you must first disassemble the rear hub assembly and remove the axle shaft.

The unit must be disassembled in strict accordance with the instructions:

The wheel nuts are loosening. After this, jack up the car and remove the wheel.
There may be rust on the rear axle shoulder that extends past the brake drum that needs to be removed. The part is additionally treated with lubricant.
There are two fastening bolts on the drum, to unscrew them you will need a 12 mm wrench. The drum is gently tapped with a hammer, which allows it to move.
You can use 2 methods to remove the drum. It is squeezed out using bolts that are provided for fastening. The drum is knocked down with a hammer. The procedure is performed as carefully as possible to avoid damage to the edges.
The axle shaft seat is cleaned, which will ensure easy removal of the drum in the future.

The next step is to remove the axle shaft. The Chevrolet Niva has 4 bolts designed to secure the axle. The shock absorber is held in place by a bracket located on the other side of the axle shaft. Once all the bolts are removed, the shock absorber will not hold the rear axle, which is pushed down by the spring.

If oil leaks, you need to jack up the vehicle higher and place a container to collect the fluid under the work area. If the rear axle stocking rests in an inclined position in the other direction, this will eliminate the oil leak.

If the shock absorber is attached to the spring cup, there is no need to unscrew it. In this case, do not use a stand. To unscrew the 4 bolts that secure the rear axle shaft, you must use a 17 mm wrench

When performing the procedure, pay attention to the growers, which should not be in the rear mechanism. If the old groover gets lost and the mechanic installs a new part, it will get caught in the space between the drum and the shoe, causing the wheel to jam in the vehicle. After unscrewing the bolts, the axle shaft is removed with a sharp movement along with the bearing

If you can’t pull it out of the holder, it is recommended to secure the wheel to the stud with three nuts and pull it firmly. At home, you can tie the wheel to the garage door with a rope. They knock on the gate with a hammer and the axle shaft comes out of the cage

After unscrewing the bolts, the axle shaft is removed with a sharp movement along with the bearing. If you can’t pull it out of the holder, it is recommended to secure the wheel to the stud with three nuts and pull it firmly. At home, you can tie the wheel to the garage door with a rope. They knock on the gate with a hammer and the axle shaft comes out of the cage.

After dismantling the axle shaft, the technician will have access to the metal shield intended for attaching the brake pads. It is fixed with two upper bolts, which are inserted into the holes. The remaining actions are performed in accordance with the instructions:

There is a thick rubber lining on the rear axle flange, which is recommended to be removed.
The old oil seal is pryed off with pliers or a screwdriver and removed from its installation location, which must be cleaned and wiped with a rag.
Apply a small amount of transmission oil to the new seal. It is installed in a seat in a level position.
The oil seal is pressed with a round attachment, which is made from a pipe. To avoid damage to the rubber gasket, it is recommended to use the old oil seal during pressing.

After replacing the oil seal, all parts are cleaned of oil - pads, brake cylinder, metal shield and drum. Before assembling the axle shaft, it is recommended to inspect its bearing. If there is no lubrication, the part is processed. If signs of bearing wear are observed, it is replaced with a new part. The need for replacement is determined by sticking or slight noise or difficulty rotating. If malfunctions are observed, then the axle shaft should be taken to a service center, since the bearing can only be replaced with special equipment.

Upon completion of the oil seal replacement work, the oil in the rear axle gearbox is checked. To do this, unscrew the filler plug from the gearbox casing and visually determine the amount of fluid. If there is not enough oil, it is added through a hose that is inserted into the filler neck.

Preparing to replace the oil seal

Before carrying out work, the technician is recommended to wear gloves that protect his hands from injury from accidental impacts. To ensure correct and convenient replacement of the oil seal, it is recommended to install the vehicle on an inspection hole . If this is not possible, a lift is used. Its height should be sufficient when supporting the rear axle after removing the wheel and unscrewing the shock absorber. Otherwise, oil will leak from it.

Important nuances

The dynamometer readings were mentioned above, and this is no coincidence. Tightening the flange is a very responsible process, and it can only be done using a torque wrench. This allows you to avoid excessive squeezing of the oil seal, which leads to a violation of the tightness of the entire gearbox. This is done like this: if at the first measurement the force on the dynamometer was 2.8 - 3 kg, then the force on the torque wrench when tightening should not exceed 6.3 kg. If the dynamometer showed 4.3 kg, then when tightening the key there should be no more than 9 kg, etc. If the dynamometer showed 2.7 kg, and the key when tightened shows 9 kg or more, it means that the gearbox adjusting sleeve is completely worn out and needs for urgent replacement.

After removal, the flange should be carefully inspected for severe abrasions and cracks. If there are any, the flange must be replaced. If this is not done, the new oil seal will very quickly become unusable.

Before driving the oil seal with a tube, it is recommended to lubricate it with lithol. This makes it much easier to fit the new oil seal into its original place. When striking a pipe with a hammer, there is no need to be too zealous: with a strong blow, the pipe easily cuts the seal.

Replacing the oil seal on the drive gear drive, main steps

it is necessary to unscrew the bolts holding the flange, remove the cardan shaft from the gearbox
disconnect the CV joint housing from the drive.
you need to connect a dynamometer and determine at what moment the rotation begins. To do this, rotate the flange mount until the gears begin to move.
bolts are screwed into adjacent holes
Between the bolts there is a pry bar, with the help of which the flange is kept from turning.
After this, you can remove the flange along with the washer using a universal puller.
The oil seal from the bridge gear is replaced with a new original spare part. The sealing ring must be lubricated with grease or lithol.
After this, it is necessary to press the ring using a pipe of a suitable diameter.
The flange fits onto the spline connection.
The cardan shaft is installed in place.

Video about the difference between RPM Shniva and VAZ 2121:

Knowing the reason for the gearbox wedge and knowing how to fix it, I went to a hardware store and bought 6 liters of kerosene. Kerosene turned out to be very expensive, 2 bottles of 3 liters cost me 700 rubles... I also went to Automaton in search of new bolts for the planetary gear, but found only ordinary ones, with a strength of 8.8... I bought a thread locker, sealant, a new spacer sleeve, oil seal and CV joint lube . Then I remembered that at my dacha I had the offal from a new factory gearbox, and from them I took the necessary bolts. I came home and started repairs. Using a Grover, I removed the roughness and burrs from the gearbox that arose from loose bolts. I took out the drive gear and washed its bearings in kerosene. I washed the pads on the self-block and the self-block itself, the main pair and also the gearbox housing itself. I put the spare parts under the battery to dry.

The stench from kerosene was all over the house, but there was nowhere to go... The next day, in order not to rush to the dacha, my friend and I moved the table with a vice to the house and we began assembling the gearbox. The old oil deflector washer was somehow all mangled, so I replaced it with a new one, and also installed a new oil seal, since the old one was torn.

Before screwing them into the GP driven gear, I lubricated all the bolts with blue thread locker.

Chevy Niva front axle structure:

1 – mud deflector; 2 – lower cover of the gearbox housing; 3 – drive gear bearings; 4 – differential housing; 5 – drain plug; 6 – filler and control hole plug; 7 – bearing of the internal hinge housing; 8 – oil seal; 9 – housing of the internal wheel drive hinge; 10 – spring washer; 11 – retaining ring; 12 – bearing cover; 13 – adjusting nut; 14 – differential box bearing; 15 – bearing cover; 16 – cover fastening bolt; 17 – support washer; 18 – satellite; 19 – axle gear; 20 – gearbox housing; 21 – breather; 22 – bearing cover of the internal hinge; 23 – satellite axis; 24 – adjusting ring; 25 – drive gear; 26 – bearing spacer; 27 – drive gear oil seal; 28 – flange.

The front axle of the Niva Chevrolet consists of a main gear and a differential installed in one housing. The differential, final drive gears and gearbox bearings of the front and rear axles are the same. The front axle gear housing is cast, covered with covers at the front and bottom. The crankcase covers are sealed with gaskets.

Useful video

Replacing the rear axle shaft seal of Niva 2121 will not take you more than 1 hour if you follow the suggested instructions.
1. NIVA gearbox seals :

-Oil seal for the input shaft of the gearbox (gearbox) NIVA-2121, -21213, -21214, -2131, -2123:

Catalogue number: 2101-1701043

oil seal dimensions: 28x47x8mm

- Seal of the secondary shaft of the gearbox (shank) VAZ-2121, -21213, -21214, -2131, -2123:

Catalogue number: 2101-1701210

oil seal dimensions: 32x56x11mm

2. NIVA front axle oil seals:

-Oil seal for the front axle gearbox NIVA- 2121,-21213,-21214,- 2123,-2120

catalog number: 2121-2302052

Dimensions: 35.8 x 68 x 11mm

-Drive seal -2121,-21213,-21214,-2131,-2123, universal (without direction)

Catalog number: 2123-2303120 / 121 2 pcs.

seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm

But it is better to install seals with a notch (left, right):

Left drive oil seal -2121,-21213,-21214,- 2123

Catalog number: 21213-2301035 1 piece.

Oil seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm

Right drive oil seal -2121,-21213,-21214,-2123

Catalog number: 21213-2301034 1 piece.

Oil seal dimensions: 57.15 x 40 x 9mm

3. Transfer Case Seals 3pcs:

2 identical oil seals are installed on the valve:

catalog number: 2101-2402052-01 (this is the rear axle gearbox seal on the VAZ-2101 and NIVA-2121 of right rotation),

one is installed on the drive shaft of the RK:

(in the lower diagram), the second is on the front shaft of the RK differential (see the upper diagram - highlighted in red)

Dimensions of these seals in mm: 35.8 x 68 x 10(12) 2 pcs.

An oil seal is installed on the rear shaft of the RK differential - this is the 3rd oil seal (highlighted in blue in the top diagram)

with catalog number: 2121-2302052 left rotation 1 pc.

Dimensions in mm: 35.8 x 68 x 11(12)

4. Rear axle gear oil seal :

catalog number: 2101-2402052-01 (rear axle gearbox VAZ-2101) 1 pc.

dimensions: 35.8x68x10

5. Axle shaft seals for Chevy NIVA-2123:

catalog numbers of oil seals: 2110-2301034 right - 1 piece

2110-2301035 left - 1 piece.

gland dimensions in mm: 57 x 35 x 9

In the photo: VAZ-2123 axle seals (BRT) red-left, black-right.

The arrow on the oil seal indicates the direction of rotation of the shaft (when the vehicle is moving forward).

Replacement: step-by-step instructions

First, unscrew the bolts securing the cardan to the flange and hang the cardan shaft under the bottom. After this, you need to measure the torque of the shank using a dynamometer or canter. To do this, wind a cord around the flange, tie its end to the measuring device and pull. Memorize or write down the force at which the shank begins to rotate. This will come in handy when assembling the unit.

Next you need:

Hold the flange with a wrench and unscrew the fastening nut.
Remove the shank from the splines using a puller.
Use pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cuff.
Install a new oil seal and moisten its seal with transmission oil.

Carefully slide the shank onto the slots and insert into place.
Tighten the nut with a torque wrench with a force of 12-15 kgf.
Check the rotation force of the shank with a cord and a canter (dynamometer).
If necessary, tighten the fastening nut.
Screw the cardan to the flange.

The work takes no more than two hours. After replacing the oil seal, especially if it had to be changed due to oil leakage, it is necessary to check the transmission level in the gearbox.

Technical features

The oil seal is located in front of the bridge. Its function is to prevent oil leaks at the junction of the cardan and the axle. Since this part of the car bears a large number of loads, it turns out that this element fails most often. The constant exposure of this part to reagents in winter also has a negative effect.

But, before starting replacement work, you should determine whether it is needed. The diagnosis here is quite simple. First, check the oil level in the gearbox; if it is not enough, add it to the maximum. Then drive the car into a pit or overpass and hang the rear wheels.

Next we proceed to diagnosis

We start the engine and engage 4th gear;
We keep the speed sufficient to maintain the speedometer speed around 100 km/h;
We wait about 10-15 minutes;

Replacing the Chevrolet Niva front axle oil seal.

First you need to remove one or two drives, depending on where replacement is needed.
After this you need to remove the locking ring
Using a hammer, knock out the bearing. If you have problems with removal, you can use WD-40 lubricant
The cover is removed, the old oil seal is knocked out using a pipe.
The installation site is lubricated and a new O-ring is installed.
the unit is reassembled.

Hello! Most Chevy owners service the unpretentious units of this popular car themselves. During intensive use, you often have to change consumables, especially in the chassis. I will tell you about this type of service, such as replacing the front axle oil seal of a NIVA Chevrolet. The replacement operation is carried out when oil leaks from the axle housing. A clogged breather causes lubricant to squeeze out.

If grease drips immediately after stopping (while the gearbox is hot), and then the flow stops, the breather must be cleaned. When it is clogged with dirt, the heated air is not released outside during movement. Under pressure, the working fluid of the gearbox will be squeezed out even through serviceable gaskets and seals.

If the breather is in order, but oil still leaks, you will have to replace damaged cover gaskets or O-rings. There are three of them in the front axle, and they are different:

The oil seal that seals the drive gear axis is located at the rear of the axle, at the location where the front propeller shaft is attached. Oil seals for the right and left drive (inner axle joint).

ATTENTION! The left and right oil seals are not the same; they have a direction of rotation. This must be taken into account when purchasing

The direction of rotation of the wheel when moving forward is indicated by the arrow. If the oil is installed incorrectly, the removable notches will drive the lubricant out.

To understand the device, here is the layout of the front axle:

The oil seal is replaced without removing the front axle. If the work is carried out independently, and it is not possible to use a lift, the car is placed on an inspection hole or overpass. We tighten the hand brake and install supports under the rear wheels. Gearbox and transfer case levers in the “Neutral” position. The front part is lifted with a jack and fixed on stops.

We clean the bridge from dirt and leaks of technical fluids. Unscrew the crankcase drain plug and drain the oil from the gearbox. Screw the plug into place.

Socket wrenches 13, 17 and 24 Hexagon 12 Mounting blade (mount) Wooden block; Hammer; Flat screwdriver; Universal puller, two or three legs; Retaining ring remover; A piece of pipe according to the diameter of the seals; Flushing fluid (kerosene, Carbcleaner, Vince, Laurel); Brush with stiff bristles; Lint-free rags.

We disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox by unscrewing the bolts securing it to the flange.
We separate the internal CV joint housings from the drive gears.
Using a dynamometer, we determine the moment at which the drive gear begins to rotate freely. To do this, turn the flange mounting nut until the gear begins to rotate. We fix the magnitude of the moment.
We tighten the bolts into two adjacent flange holes (for fixation).
We insert a mounting spade between the bolts, hold the flange from turning and unscrew the fastening nut.
Remove the washer and flange from the spline joint. If it is impossible to remove it by hand, use a universal puller.

7. Remove the oil seal using a flat-head screwdriver. 8. Rinse and thoroughly wipe the replacement area. 9. Replacement of the front axle drive gear oil seal is carried out only with original Chevrolet spare parts. To facilitate pressing, any grease (litol, grease) is applied to the sealing ring. 10. Press in the ring using a pipe of suitable diameter. 11. Place the flange on the spline connection and put on the washer. 12. Tighten the nut to the torque determined when unscrewing. 13. Fasten the cardan shaft.

We remove both drives (or the one that requires replacement)
Remove the retaining ring and spring washer;
Using a hammer, carefully knock down the bearing. If removal is difficult, treat with a penetrating lubricant, such as WD-40.
Remove the bearing cap with the old seal.
Using a pipe, knock the oil seal out of the cover;
Lubricate the new spare part with any grease and press the o-ring into the cover.

7. We assemble the unit. We fill the gearbox with oil in accordance with the maintenance instructions, do a test drive, and check for oil leaks.

Replacing the rear axle axle seal on a Chevrolet Niva. A little easier than it seems"

Replacing the rear axle axle seal on a Chevrolet Niva. A little easier than it seems

Replacing the rear axle axle seal on a Chevrolet Niva

occurs when there is visible transmission fluid leaking from the axle. To do this, after parking, pay attention to the condition of the car’s drums. If there are problems with the seals, small leaks will be noticeable on the wheels. If it is not brake fluid, then most likely the problem is in the oil seal and should be replaced. A transmission fluid leak will cause serious problems with axle components.

To carry out the work you will need a regular set of tools. The only special tool you will need is a puller for the axle shaft, but if you don’t have one, you can do without it.

Before carrying out work, ensure that the machine is as motionless as possible. To do this, wheel chocks are installed under the front wheels. First gear is engaged. The work is carried out in the following order:

The wheel fastening becomes loose. The car is raised on a jack. The wheel is completely removed. Supports are placed under the thresholds in case of problems with the jack; ordinary blocks or several wheels folded in a stack will do;

Before removing the brake drum, make sure the wheel is completely released. In this case, the handbrake lever must be lowered, the wheel rotates freely;

The decorative cap is removed. To do this, disconnect it by prying up the fasteners with a screwdriver;

The gap between the flange and the drum is moistened with penetrating lubricant (liquid wrench, WD-40);

The brake drum is secured with two screws, they must be unscrewed. For this you will need a key “12”;

Gently tap the drum with a hammer so you can move it relative to the axle shaft;

In some cases, the drum can be removed quite easily. But sometimes you have to shoot him down. To do this, it is necessary to strike the rim of the drum with a hammer from the back side. Just do this through a block, otherwise you can damage the drum;

The screws holding the axle shaft and the drum casing are unscrewed;

The bridge rises slightly;

The shock absorber bracket should be removed from the axle bearing plate;

The axle shaft is removed; for this you will need a special puller. If it is not there, then you can do without it. To do this, put the wheel on the axle shaft. Screw on 3 nuts, but so that there is free space between them. We press the wheel against the axle and pull it harder towards us. After several passes, seasoned with strong words, the axle shaft should move. All that remains is to extract it;

Now you can change the oil seal. Remove it using a screwdriver. Just pry the oil seal in a convenient place and pull it out;

To install, the new oil seal is pressed back in, and the removed part is used as a mandrel.

Replacement: step-by-step instructions

Hold the flange with a wrench and unscrew the fastening nut.
Remove the shank from the splines using a puller.
Use pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cuff.
Install a new oil seal and moisten its seal with transmission oil.

Carefully slide the shank onto the slots and insert into place.
Tighten the nut with a torque wrench with a force of 12-15 kgf.
Check the rotation force of the shank with a cord and a canter (dynamometer).
If necessary, tighten the fastening nut.
Screw the cardan to the flange.

The work takes no more than two hours. After replacing the oil seal, especially if it had to be changed due to oil leakage, it is necessary to check the transmission level in the gearbox.

Replacement

Unscrew the cardan (4 bolts), drain the oil. Individual bolts may not give in; they will have to be cut off with a grinder, and the rods themselves will have to be drilled out for subsequent assembly. Drain the oil from the bridge.

Further actions should follow the following scheme:

1. Using a 17-mm spanner, unscrew the four nuts of the bolts securing the axle shaft to the beam flange.

2. Using a slotted screwdriver, bend the locking plates of the axle shaft mounting bolts and pull out the bolts.

3. Using the back side of the wheel, fix it on the axle shaft. As a rule, a few turns of three nuts are enough for this, since this is not done for travel.

4. We take the wheel and with a moderate-strong jerk, move it from the seat and remove the axle shaft. At the same time, a plate on which the bearing ring is fixed will come out.

5. Dismantle the beam flange ring.

6. Install the bolts into the holes of the brake system shield and the bridge beam. This is necessary to avoid hanging the shield on the brake pipe.

7. Take the “Goebbels” and use it to hook the oil seal, pull it out.

8. Using a piece of metal pipe of the required diameter, we press the new part and seal it with gasket sealant. The last condition is not mandatory.

9. We carry out the assembly using the proposed diagram from top to bottom.

If you find deformation of the axle shaft, damage to the splines, or bearing failure, then we are no longer talking about replacing the oil seal, but about purchasing a new entire unit.

Important: at the beginning of the article we talked about the need to drain the oil. This condition is also not mandatory and is only met if you planned to replace this consumable. In other situations, you should simply check the oil level upon completion of work and add it if necessary.

Front axle shank oil seal Niva Chevrolet

Tools:

Straight box spanner 13 mm
Driver for 3/4 socket bit
Knob attachment 24 mm
Large flat screwdriver
Small hammer
Torque wrench
Mounting blade
Flange puller

Parts and consumables:

Front axle gearbox drive gear oil seal
Sealant
Litol-24 lubricant
Self-locking nut for flange fastening

Notes:

Replace the oil seal with a new one if an oil leak is detected. We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the front axle gearbox, as described here. We remove the housings of the internal hinges of the front wheel drives from engagement with the gears of the front axle reducer drives, as described here.

2. Using a dynamometer, turn the drive gear clockwise by the flange mounting nut and determine the moment of its resistance to rotation (similar to the operations given in the article “Replacing the drive gear oil seal of the Chevrolet Niva rear axle gearbox”).

Note:

For clarity, we show the work with the clips and pads securing the lower cover of the gearbox housing to the anti-roll bar bar removed.

3. Insert bolts into two adjacent holes in the flange and screw nuts onto them.

4. Using a 24mm socket, unscrew the flange nut, holding it from turning with a mounting blade.

5. Remove the washer.

6. Remove the flange from the drive gear shank.

7. If there is difficulty, press it with a puller.

8. Use a screwdriver to pry off the oil seal.

9. Take it out.

10. After applying Litol-24 lubricant to the working surface of the new oil seal, press it in with a suitable piece of pipe. We install the flange and tighten the flange mounting nut, checking the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear (similar to the operations given in the article “Replacing the drive gear oil seal of the Chevrolet Niva rear axle gearbox”).

11. We carry out further assembly in the reverse order.

The article is missing:

Photo of the instrument
Photos of parts and consumables
High-quality photos of repairs

Replacing the front axle oil seal on a Chevrolet Niva

Hello! Most Chevy owners service the undemanding units of this popular car without the help of others. During intensive use, it is often necessary to change consumables, especially in the chassis. I will tell you about this type of service, like replacing the front axle seal of a NIVA Chevrolet. A replacement operation is performed when oil leaks from the axle housing. A clogged breather causes lubricant to squeeze out.

If the lubricant drips immediately after stopping (while the gearbox is hot), and then the leak stops, the breather needs to be cleaned. When it is clogged with dirt, the heated air does not bleed out during movement. Under pressure, the working fluid of the gearbox will be squeezed out even through serviceable gaskets and seals.

If the breather is in order, and the oil penetrates indifferently, you will have to change the warped gaskets of the covers, or, in other words, the O-rings. There are three of them in the front bridge, and they are different:

What to do with VAZ

Initially, we will discuss these types of repairs in relation to the “classic” Zhiguli. We will tell you how to replace the gearbox seal of the rear axle of a VAZ 2107.

wrenches;
screwdriver;
mounting blade;
Litol type lubricant;
sandpaper;
mandrel and hammer;
a special key for holding the flange - a tube with two bolts inserted into the holes of the part.

Find out also how to remove the brake drum on a VAZ 2109 and about replacing the coolant on a VAZ 2110.

Begin.

First of all, drain the oil from the assembly unit.
We remove the axle shafts from the beam.
We use a screwdriver to disconnect the cardan flange from the mating part of the tail gear, having previously unscrewed the bolts. We keep the cardan from turning with a mounting blade.
We wrap a strong rope around the neck of the counter element of the drive gear and attach a hand scale to it. The force of uniform rotation of the part (kg s) multiplied by the radius of its neck gives the value of the required moment - we write down this value.
Unscrew the tail gear flange nut, holding the part with a special wrench.
We remove the detached element and the washer.
Using a screwdriver, we remove the reinforced rubber product.
Clean the seat with sandpaper and lubricate it with Litol.
We press in the new spare part with a mandrel using hammer blows until there is a gap of 2 mm from the end of the crankcase to the part embedded inside. Now the reinstallation of the differential assembly cuff can be considered completed.
We install and screw the flange element, holding it with a special key. If the initially measured moment of resistance to rotation was at least 6 kg s x m, then the new moment should be greater by 1 kg s x m. In any case, we tighten until the moment reaches 6 kg s x m, but not higher than up to the moment 12 – 26 kg per x m.
Then we collect everything along the way in reverse.
Add oil.

Replacing the shank oil seal Niva Chevrolet front axle

The crankcase covers are sealed with gaskets. Changing the oil in the front axle gearbox According to the service book, the oil in the front axle gearbox must be replaced every 45 km.

It is recommended to drain the oil immediately after a trip, while the front axle is still warm and the oil has good fluidity. Unscrew the drain plug and fill with fresh oil using a syringe to the level of the lower edge of the filler hole.

Before checking the leakage volume, check that the breather cap can move freely in all directions to ensure that the breather can be seen.

Check the oil level in the axle housing and top it up if necessary. Don't forget to tighten the oil filler plug.

If you are working in an inspection ditch, hang up the rear axle and place it on supports.

If more than 5 drops of oil leak out within 15 minutes, the oil seal must be replaced. Before replacing the oil seal, disengage the gear and stop the engine.

Drain the oil from the front axle housing, see. Do not forget to tighten the oil drain plug. Disconnect the front driveshaft from the drive gear flange of the front axle reducer.

Remove the housings of the internal hinges of the front wheel drives from engagement with the gears of the front axle reducer axle shafts, see. Determine the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear flange nut and replace the oil seal in the same way as replacing the rear axle drive gear oil seal, see. Install the removed components and parts in the reverse order of removal. Fill the gearbox with oil, see