Attention! We hang and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake pads (see Replacing the rear brake pads).
Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the four nuts on the bolts securing the axle shaft to the beam flange.
Use a slotted screwdriver to bend the locking plates of the axle shaft mounting bolts...
...and remove the bolts.
We fix the wheel with the reverse side on the axle shaft by tightening three nuts several turns.
Holding the wheel, we move it with a jerk...
...and remove the axle shaft assembly with the bearing mounting plate, bearing and locking ring.
We take out the rubber sealing ring of the beam flange.
We insert two bolts into the holes of the brake shield and the rear axle beam so that the shield does not hang on the brake pipe.
We pry off the oil seal using sliding pliers...
Using a tool head of a suitable size with an extension (or a piece of pipe), we press in a new oil seal.
If the axle shaft is deformed, its splines are worn out, or the bearing is worn out, we replace the axle shaft with a new one complete with bearing and locking ring (it is not recommended to replace the bearing or locking ring yourself).
Install the axle shaft in reverse order.
Check the oil level in the rear axle and add if necessary.
When it is necessary to replace the rear axle axle seal of a Niva Chevrolet, the owner does not have to immediately contact a service station. This operation refers to work that does not require high qualifications and special equipment, and if desired, it can be done with your own hands. This also applies to motorists driving regular Nivas - VAZ 21214 and 21213.
Replacing the rear axle oil seal Niva 2121
Reg.: 02/04/2009 Messages: 225 From: planet Norilsk.
Age: 38 Car: 21213 95 Reg.: 04/30/2010 Threads / Messages: 3 / 1802 From: Moscow, TiNAO Age: 31 Car: MMC Pajero Sport 05
Reg.: 07/25/2009 Messages: 15 From: Yakutia Age: 35 Car: VAZ 21214 2008, VAZ 21101 2006
Reg.: 06/27/2007 Messages: 1765 From: Moscow Age: 51 Car: 21213, 1999
Name: Alexey Reg.: 03/05/2005 Threads / Messages: 62 / 4065 From: Moscow, Northern Administrative Okrug Age: 39 Car: Shniva 2016 70 tkm
Sever18
Wash the semi-axial bearing as a preventative measure (you need to remove one of the cheeks) and fill it with new grease. At least lithol. Anybody will be better than it was.
There is no need to buy any additional rings, etc.
Reg.: 06/03/2011 Messages: 68 From: Omsk Age: 62 Car: 2131 2001
Reg.: 06/17/2011 Messages: 95 From: Ukraine, Alchevsk Age: 34 Car: VAZ 2121 1982
But I also decided to change the bearings on the axle shafts and the seals. I bought 2121 for the Niva. I brought it to the garage and started putting the oil seal on the axle shaft, but it reached halfway and that’s it. Next comes the thickening of the axle shaft. The store said that the axle shafts on the VAZ 2101 and 2121 are the same. It turns out I have a VAZ 21213 rear axle? I think the bearing will fit. The numbers match 62208r
Added after 8 minutes 26 seconds:
Also in the store the seller said that the seals are installed on the VAZ 21213, I don’t remember anymore, I think it’s from the VAZ 2110
Name: Nikolay Reg.: 11/12/2008 Threads / Messages: 4 / 1073 From: Ruza.Moscow region. Age: 49 Car: VAZ21214. 2001, MP 7.0
Reg.: 02/27/2011 Messages: 1474 From: Biysk Age: 43 Car: VAZ-2131 1.8 carb 2002 (Was: 2121 84 2121 93 21213 01 2123 2007)
Maintenance of the axle shaft 21213. The bearings on the axle shafts 2121.21213, 2123, 21214 are the same. Only the seals are different: On 2121, the oil seals are 2101. On all other axle shafts, the drive seals are 2108-2110. Locking bushings for 2121 are their own. All the others have their own 21213. etc. The only difference is the presence or absence of ABC on the car. If there is ABC, then the bushing is appropriate. Bottom left 2121. Right 2123 under ABC, top - 2123-21213 (without ABC):
Reg.: 11/07/2010 Messages: 30 From: Bratsk Age: 37 Car: VAZ-21213 '96
Reg.: 12/02/2010 Posts: 37 From: Maloyaroslavets Age: 59 Car: VAZ 21213 1999
I'll write down how I removed the axle shaft. Maybe it will be useful to someone. We begin removing the axle shaft as in the manual, and end by screwing the wheel on with the reverse side. It was not possible to “pull” the axle shaft with manual effort. My weight is too low. Next, I proceeded as follows: 1. Attach a chain (about 2.5 m long) to the holes of the disk (symmetrically). It turned out to be a loop that I was going to hit (emphasis on the “U”) with a sledgehammer. 2. I placed a log at the end of the loop, on which I placed a chain, and placed a heavy piece of iron (a counterweight from a washing machine) into the resulting loop so that the loop would not fall off the log. 3. I was about to take a sledgehammer, but the log fell, and when I picked it up and lightly hit the loop with a piece of iron to tighten the chain, a miracle happened: the AXLE MOVED. No problem further.
Added after 1 minute 24 seconds:
In point No. 1, the emphasis is on the first “U”, otherwise not everyone will understand.
