Replacing the fuel pump motor for a VAZ 2114

The frequency of replacing the fuel pump on Samara 2 (VAZ 2113,14,15) cars is not regulated. Change it only if necessary.

It is quite easy to understand that the fuel pump is faulty. If the car does not start, or starts and immediately stalls, in this case, the first thing you can do is listen and understand whether the pump is pumping or not. Usually the sound of a running fuel pump is heard in a car.

If there is no sound, then you must first check the fuse and relay (it is located at the bottom right of the center console), and then only climb into the tank. It's another matter when the pump is still running, but pumping little fuel. In this case, you will not be able to check the pump yourself without special tools.

When the car begins to pick up speed poorly, drops in speed when you sharply press the gas pedal, or simply has unstable engine operation, you need to check the pressure in the fuel rail. If the pressure is less than 2 bar, the pump must be replaced.

The normal pressure of this fuel pump is 2.5 - 3.5 bar.

Models of fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115 cars

VAZ 2114/2115 cars are equipped with 1.5 cm 3 and 1.6 cm 3 gasoline engines with a distributed injection system. A submersible electric fuel pump is used to supply fuel. It is part of the fuel module installed at the top of the gas tank (under the rear seat). In addition to the pump, the module includes a fuel accumulator (cup), a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor with a float.

The VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump is a conventional DC electric motor in a sealed housing with a one-way valve at the outlet. An impeller of a special shape is located on the electric motor shaft. Its rotation ensures the fuel supply.

The fuel pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The electrical circuit of the pump, protected by a fuse, is closed using a separate relay.

Electric fuel pumps for VAZ cars are produced by both domestic (Utes, SAAZ, Pekar) and foreign companies. The latest modifications of the VAZ 2114/2115 are equipped with BOSH pumps, which are distinguished by their high reliability, long service life and relatively low price.

Catalog numbers of standard fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115:

2112–1139009–12 - for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm 3;
2112–1139009–01 - for engines with a volume of 1.6 cm 3;
580453453 (BOSH) - for engines with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 cm 3.

These models differ in operating pressure. The former are capable of creating a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa in the fuel system, the latter - 3.7–3.9 kPa. BOSH fuel pumps are rated at 3.5 kPa.

Article: 21082-1101138, additional articles: 21082-1101138Р

Order code: 023299

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Symptoms of a problem

A malfunction of the fuel pump of VAZ 2114/2115 cars can be diagnosed by the following symptoms:

when the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running;
the engine does not start or starts with difficulty;
the power unit is unstable at idle, the speed “floats”;
“dips” appeared during acceleration;
the motor has lost power.

The same signs also appear when other elements of the fuel system malfunction.

Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the fuel pump, you should make sure that:

the fine fuel filter is not clogged (it is changed every 7 thousand kilometers);
the injectors and fuel pressure regulator are operating normally;
The sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, and oxygen quantity are working properly.

If the detected malfunction is accompanied by the lighting of the “CHECK” lamp on the dashboard, you should set the error code and decipher it.

Wiring

If the fuel pump fails, first of all, you need to make sure that the circuit was installed correctly. Three wires lead to its electric drive:

one - to the fuel sensor;
two - to the contacts of the motor itself.

A regular 12 volt light bulb will help you figure this out. It is connected to the power wires. When you turn on the ignition, it will light up - this means that the electrics are supplied correctly.

The lamp also checks the performance of the motor itself. In this case, it is connected to the protruding terminals of the drive, and its short-term flashing will indicate in this case a malfunction of this element.

Diagnostics

A malfunction of the VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump can be caused by:

malfunctions in the device’s power supply circuit;
failure of starting and protection elements (relay and fuse);
wear of electric motor parts.

Checking the electrical circuit

At the beginning of the diagnosis, you should check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. To do this you will need:

car tester (multimeter);
crosshead screwdriver;
two pieces of wire about 2 m long.

Checking the electrical circuit is carried out in the following order:

Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. When the key is in the first position, a click should be heard, characteristic of turning on the relay, followed by a slight whirring of the pump electric motor. If there is no click, the relay is faulty or is not receiving power. If there is a click, but no buzzing, the wiring coming from the relay or the pump motor itself is faulty.
Under the glove compartment, find an additional mounting block consisting of three relays and three fuses. The pump relay is located in the middle, and the fuse is located to the left of it. Remove the fuse from its socket, test it with a multimeter, and if the result is negative, replace it. When replacing the fuse, please note that it is rated for a maximum of 15 A.

The relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114/2115 are located in the mounting block under the glove compartment.

Set your multimeter to voltmeter mode. Connect one probe of the device to the relay terminal to which the pink wire fits, and the second to the car body. Turn on the ignition. The device should show the on-board network voltage in the range of 11.7–12.4 V. If there is no voltage, the problem may be a broken wiring or a malfunction of the ignition contact group. In this case, it is better to contact an auto electrician. If power is supplied, check that the relay is working. With the ignition on, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to close the contacts to which the pink and gray wires go. This closes the circuit bypassing the relay. If the fuel pump works, replace the relay.

Pressure check

If the pump is working properly, but the engine begins to operate intermittently, you should check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:

pressure gauge (can be a tire gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 kPa);
petrol-resistant hose with a diameter of 10–12 mm and a length of 50–80 cm;
two clamps for a hose of the appropriate diameter;
Phillips screwdriver;
nipple cap;
dry rag.

In addition, the presence of an assistant is desirable.

The verification procedure is as follows:

In the engine compartment on the engine fuel rail, locate the pressure measuring fitting (on the right side).
Remove the plastic cap (plug) from the fitting.

Motor

We checked the pressure and wiring, everything works like clockwork, but the engine stalls. The fuel pump may not pump due to a breakdown of the motor - the main element that drives fuel. We check its functionality with the same light bulb: attach its wires to any terminal of the motor, turn the ignition. The lamp blinked - it was time to throw out the motor. And again, run to the store for a brand new motor.

The terminals may oxidize and not make contact, as a result of which the fuel pump will not pump. The motor in this case may be normal. And the terminals just need cleaning (possibly re-soldering). There is an opinion that the terminals are oxidized due to low-quality fuel (the octane number does not match the declared one).

Selecting and replacing the fuel pump

Russian car owners prefer BOSH fuel pumps. You should only buy a new pump in specialized stores. The original product must be packaged in thick plastic film filled with special preservative oil. At the same time, a branded BOSH pump cannot cost less than 2 thousand rubles.

Video: how to distinguish an original from a fake

To replace the electric fuel pump on a VAZ 2114/2115 you will need:

screwdriver with Phillips bit;
thin slotted screwdriver;
key or head 7;
key to 10;
key to 17.

Video: dismantling the fuel pump

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Using a 10mm wrench, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
Open the gas tank cap to reduce the pressure in it.
Remove the rear seat cushion and peel back the carpet and sound insulation.

Video: disassembling the fuel module

If, when disassembling the fuel module, it is discovered that the coarse filter is clogged, it should be replaced. The fuel level sensor with a float must also be replaced if the readings on the front panel do not correspond to reality.

Thus, diagnosing and replacing the fuel pump of a VAZ 2114/2115 car is quite simple. And in order for the pump to serve for a long time, always refuel only with high-quality gasoline.

It's no secret that you can't get far in a car without gasoline. Therefore, for the engine to operate, it is simply necessary that the entire fuel system functions in optimal mode.

In many ways, the fuel pump is responsible for supplying fuel to the engine, which the VAZ 2114 model is not without, of course. To solve a problem with a faulty fuel pump, you need to make sure it is at fault.

Relay

In the same place as the fixed mass of the fuel pump, under the dashboard, its relay is located.

Ideally, when ignited, the relay creates the required pressure in the system in a couple of moments and turns off. If this does not happen, the pressure is normal, but the process does not proceed, we completely lift the front facing panel that covers the contacts of the music and air conditioner and look from the passenger side: there are three switches, the lowest one is from the fuel pump. When you turn the key, the relay makes a characteristic click and works. If there is no click, the relay or its contacts are closed.

As they say, there is no need to waste time on trifles, if the motor terminals can be reanimated, then it is better to replace the relay and its contacts. The pleasure is inexpensive, the location for replacing spare parts is very convenient.

Signs of breakdown

There are several situations in which the pump or its components can be at fault. This will definitely have to be checked. Otherwise, you can spend a lot of money buying and installing a new fuel pump, but in the end it turns out that the problem is completely different.

The engine will not start. This is not a clear sign of problems with the pump, but still. Therefore, first check the condition of the spark plugs, the presence of a spark, and the absence of traces of oil on them. Also check the electronic control unit.
Pressure inside the fuel system. If the pump is operating normally, it will create a pressure of 3.2 bar. Depending on the type of engine in your VAZ 2114, the characteristics may differ slightly: For a 1.5-liter engine, the optimal values are 285-325 kPa;
For a 1.6-liter engine, these characteristics in optimal operating mode will range from 375 to 390 kPa.

There is no signal that is not sent to the pump. This happens when you turn the ignition key. During normal operation, the pump begins to vibrate slightly when turning the key. If this does not happen, be sure to check the wiring.

Troubles the power unit. This is also not an ideal sign of a fuel pump failure. But you still have to check. It is likely that the culprit in this situation will be the pump.

The engine jerks. Moreover, this happens at low speeds or even at start. There are two possible reasons for the situation - a breakdown of the pump itself or a problem with the fuel pump grid, which will have to be replaced.

New and old coarse filter
Many people purchase the entire fuel module assembly at once, which includes a filter, sensor, float, intake chamber and the pump itself. Such a purchase will cost approximately 3,000 rubles. It is much more profitable and practical to buy a separate pump, which costs up to 1000 rubles. This is due to the fact that when the pump fails, the remaining elements almost always remain intact and are fully suitable for further use.

Pressure

First of all, you will need to measure the pressure in the fuel supply system. If the pump works as it should, it is about seven atmospheres. To check, the pressure gauge is connected to the ramp through the fitting there. Remove the cap from it and screw on the measuring device.

If everything is in order, then the readings will be as follows:

2.5 kPa (idle);
3 (ignition on);
7 (if you pinch the fuel outflow hose);
2.5-3 (increase in speed).

In the same situation, if after the ignition is triggered the pressure gauge does not show anything, then most likely the pressure regulator has failed.

When no changes occur even after gaining speed, then the issue here is clearly in the fuel pump. A slow change in readings indicates a clogged filter mesh.

Popular breakdowns

Problems with the fuel pump can occur for several reasons. Therefore, your first priority is to determine the source of the problem. These may be:

Fuel pump fuse;
Fuel pump relay;
Pump weight;
Motor;
Contacts;
The pump itself.

If one of these elements fails, it can stop the normal functionality of the entire module.

Let us consider the situations with each of the specified elements of the fuel module in more detail.

Pressure

What exactly is a fuel pump? This is an element of the fuel system that allows fuel to pass through due to pressure. Therefore, if you take pressure measurements, you can get answers to many questions.

Let's give an example of normal pressure readings when checking in certain modes.

Check mode

Normal indicator

At idle

Without pressure regulator tube

When the drain is pinched

When you press the gas pedal

We recommend measuring with a small range of atmospheres on a pressure gauge (up to 7 atm). This will reduce errors to a minimum. Having a pressure gauge at hand will allow you to significantly save on professional diagnostics.

Contacts

The fuel pump includes three wiring:

Plus (positive);
Minus (negative);
Fuel level indicator.

So, failure of the pump may occur due to a simple violation of the integrity of the wires. So if the pressure check shows normal, then we definitely examine the condition of the wiring.

To check, you will need a 12V lamp, which is attached to the external connectors of the pump with positive and negative contacts. Turn the ignition key. If the lamp blinks, contact is present. In this case, you will have to check the condition of the internal contacts.

Checking contacts

Motor

If the pressure and wiring are normal, let's try to check the serviceability of the motor. It is this element that is responsible for moving fuel through the system.

To check it, you will need the same 12V lamp;
Attach it to any motor terminal;
Turn the ignition key;
If the lamp blinks, you will have to get rid of the motor and buy a new one.

Motor
Don't make hasty conclusions. Before checking, look at the condition of the terminals and motor wiring.

Fuel pump weight

The contacts are fine, but the fuel level sensor may provide incorrect information. In this case, you definitely need to check the weight of the pump responsible for dispersing the fuel.

It often turns out that after prolonged use or driving on difficult road sections, the mass simply loses its fastening strength. Accordingly, if the mass falls off, the pump will not be able to work.

The mass is attached to the pump under the dashboard in the area of the hand brake. Therefore, when the driver turns on the handbrake, there is a possibility of hitting the ground contact, which is why it will fall off.

Putting the mass back in place is not that difficult. The problem is caused by the path to it. You'll have to:

Get to the bottom through the interior;
Remove the plastic under the handbrake;
Remove the floor covering;
Remove the grounding contacts;
Clean;
Secure it to the fuel pump as firmly as possible.

The fuel pump relay is located exactly where the ground is. Therefore, there should be no problems with the search.

With an ideally working fuel supply system, when the ignition is turned on, the relay instantly creates pressure inside the system, and then turns off.

If this process is disrupted, you will have to:

Lift the front facing panel, which covers the contacts of the audio system and air conditioning;
Take a look from the front passenger side;
Find three relays;
The lowest one is our desired pump relay;
Turn the ignition key;
If you hear a characteristic click from the relay, it is working properly;
If there is no click, check the contacts. The reason is either them or a failed relay.

Fuse

All that remains is to check the condition of the fuse. This stage will make sure who the real culprit of the problems is - the pump itself or its fuse.

Fuse location

Getting to the fuse is as easy as getting to the relay - through the hood or from the inside. The first option is preferable.
Raise the hood and look in the area near the windshield.
There is a dark-colored box located directly on the electronic engine control unit.
Open the box and look inside for the topmost fuse.
It has a current strength of 15A, as well as an inscription in English - Fuel Pump, that is, a fuel pump.
Examine its external condition by removing it from the box.
If the contacts are intact, then everything with the fuse is normal.
If burnt contacts are clearly visible, consider purchasing a new device. Its price is affordable, so finding and replacing should not be a problem.

Weight

The fuel pump mass is located under the steering wheel, not far from the handbrake handle. It is its use that most often leads to wire breakage. In this case you will need:

remove the cover;
clean the ground contacts;
attach it to its original place.

There is also a relay that controls the operation of the fuel pump. It is necessary so that when the ignition is turned on, operating pressure is immediately formed in the fuel supply system. It is important not to get confused, because there are three relays, and only one of them is related to the pump.

This element cannot be repaired and is simply replaced with a working one.

Step-by-step instruction

Working with the mesh takes no more than half an hour, since the driver does not need to disassemble half of the VAZ 2114 car to get to this unit. To work, you will need a standard set of screwdrivers and wrenches. As additional materials, you may need WD-40, which will help unscrew stuck bolts, as well as rags for wiping the body of the VAZ 2114. If you plan to completely replace the pump, then you need to completely drain the gasoline from the fuel tank. It is not recommended to work with fuel in the tank. Replacement proceeds as follows:

The negative terminal is removed from the battery. This is done in order to de-energize the car.
Under the rear row of passengers, you need to unscrew the plastic protection, as shown in the photo below.

You need to remove the fuel pump carefully, since the float that determines the fuel level is very fragile.

If desired, you can find a supported pump. To determine whether replacement is needed or not, the unit must be thoroughly inspected. But checking the fuel pump yourself is quite problematic, so before changing it, you can take the car to a car service center and check the pressure in the fuel rail.

Necessary tool

What to do if the pump fails? To dismantle old and install new equipment, you need to prepare the following tools:

Phillips and flat screwdriver;
socket wrench 7;
open-end wrenches sizes 10 and 17.

Before replacing the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114, you need to make sure that it is the problem. To do this you need to do the following:

If when you turn the ignition key you do not hear the noise of the running motor, then use a multimeter to check the power circuit. To do this, remove the fuses from the mounting block (located under the glove compartment) and measure them.

And also “mass”. To do this, remove the lining near the handbrake lever. We find the “minus” of the fuel pump (attached to the car body). Disconnect, clean and put back. And lastly, we check the presence of power directly to the fuel module. It is necessary to dismantle it (located under the rear seat) and connect it directly from the battery.

We check the pressure in the system.

Under the hood of the car we find a special fitting with a cap. We remove it, put a hose on it, and the other end to the pressure gauge. Moreover, both ends must be tightened with clamps. Turn on the ignition and record the instrument readings.

The pressure should be between 2.8 and 3.9 kPa.

If there is no positive result, the fuel pump is replaced with a new one. Let's look at how to replace the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114. We proceed in the following sequence:

Fuse

Fuse 15 A

One of the final stages of checking a malfunctioning fuel pump is its fuse. Like the relay, the fuse can be seen from the inside. Or you can climb in from the outside, through the hood. Under the hood, closer to the windshield, there will be a dark box, right on the electronic control unit. You need to open it and find the topmost fuse with a current of 15 A and the English inscription fuel pump. We take it out and look at the insides: the contact is not damaged - the fuse is alive. The contact is damaged (blown) - you need to install a new fuse. As with the price of the relay issue, buying and replacing a fuse will not be a big waste of money and time.

Not every master's hands grow from the right place. For this reason. The reason that the fuel pump does not pump can be simple stupid shortcomings of simple tuning.

For example, the alarm was installed in such a way that all the contacts were mixed up, and power simply does not go to the fuel pump. Not because the alarm should not be on the car, or the wiring system is acting up, it’s just that the person who installed it didn’t have enough brains and practice. Check all connections carefully if you decide to add some style to your little one.

Or anti-theft. The button is placed in such a way that it interrupts the integrity of the fuel pump ground contact system, and almost always fails. By the way, if you have such a lotion, I don’t think it will be very effective in the absence of a signal. And if there is a signaling system, then anti-theft is not needed at all.

In any case, remember: in any situation where a VAZ breaks down, the point is not that it is a VAZ, and it was made poorly. It’s just that the Russian auto industry is a little more delicate than the foreign one, it requires a little more attention and your ingenuity.