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Diagnostics
Reasons for failure of crankshaft oil seals
Since oil drips are the first and main sign of wear on the crankshaft seals, they also tell us that the tightness of the engine lubrication system is compromised. Therefore, at the beginning of troubleshooting, we will have to make sure that it is the sealing collars that are causing the oil leak:
- First, we check the oil level in the engine (there is no need to rely entirely on sensors), top up if necessary and check every day until we find out the cause of the leaks;
- We check the crankcase ventilation system in the engine (clogged ventilation contributes to the accumulation of crankcase gases which, in turn, push oil through the sealing cuffs);
- Check the oil pipe hoses for kinks;
- We check the pressure in the lubrication system.
As a rule, replacing the crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2109 is a rather labor-intensive procedure, however, it can be done with your own hands. Therefore, before replacing the crankshaft oil seal of the VAZ 2109, we need to know the reasons why it fails in order to delay this unpleasant moment as long as possible. There are several reasons for the destruction of oil seals:
- First of all, this is, of course, its natural wear and aging (coarsening) of rubber;
- Due to improper installation and, as a rule, internal stresses, cracks appear on the working surface of the cuff;
- Mechanical damage;
- Poor quality tires (fake).
Advice! When purchasing new oil seals, check their working surface, namely the edge, for its sharpness - the sharper it is, the longer the seal will work. In this case, the edge should be smooth and elastic.
Replacing crankshaft oil seals on a VAZ 2109
It should be noted that most often the front radial crankshaft cuff is the first to fail, since it is more exposed to the external environment (dust, sand, dirt) and vibration loads from the car engine. And although the rear oil seal is in more favorable conditions, it is advisable to change the oil seals as a set, since their working life is almost the same.
Signs of wear of the crankshaft seals and its consequences
Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal of a VAZ 2109 is relevant if oil leaks appear on the front cover of the engine block, in the area of the crankshaft pulley, which become more and more progressive as the “disease” develops. Since it is practically impossible to see the beginning of wear of the rear oil seal, replacing the rear crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2109 takes place if, when the car is moving, clutch slipping is observed, which is caused by the leaked oil spraying onto the clutch basket and onto its release plate as well. If you notice at least one of the listed signs on your car, then I would not advise you to delay the repair procedure, since the price of a new repair kit is not comparable to the cost of engine repair. What does the engine have to do with it, you ask? The thing is that leaks of lubricating fluids lead to their uneven distribution to the mating surfaces, which is fraught with possible oil starvation of individual engine parts. In the first category of risk of oil shortage is the engine crankshaft itself, which manifests itself in scuffing on its working surface.
Consequences of oil starvation
Also, a consequence of oil leaks through the crankshaft seals is the passage of solid mechanical particles into the oil seal, which, like an abrasive, wear out the working surface of the oil seal on the crankshaft, which already leads to more complex and costly repairs.
Front cuff workplace
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How to replace piston rings yourself
Of course, replacing rings is a rather labor-intensive procedure. It requires accuracy and certain skills, but by and large there is nothing complicated about it (unless you remove the engine). To do this you need:
- remove the cylinder head, following all the recommendations of the car manufacturer;
- drain the oil, remove the flywheel protection and engine sump;
- remove the oil intake;
- Having turned the crankshaft, set the desired piston to bottom dead center;
- unscrew the connecting rod cover and remove it;
- pull the piston along with the connecting rod out of the cylinder, pushing it upward with a wooden strip;
- clean the piston from carbon deposits. Based on its marking, determine the piston class, purchase a new set of piston rings corresponding to it;
- Before installation, each new ring is first inserted into the cylinder to check the clearance in the lock. The gap must correspond to the value specified in the vehicle's operating manual. If it is less than necessary, then the ends of the lock are carefully filed with a file;
- The pistons are thoroughly cleaned of carbon deposits. The holes intended for draining oil are also cleaned with a suitable wooden stick. The cleaned grooves are lubricated with clean engine oil;
- The rings are put on starting with the oil scraper. On one side of the ring is marked “TOP” (up), which indicates how it should be installed in the piston. The locks must be installed at 120 degrees relative to each other. This will prevent gases from penetrating through them. You cannot put the rings on in a “twist”; such installation may be accompanied by the appearance of microcracks, which will lead to their breakage;
- Reassemble in the reverse order, simultaneously cleaning everything with a clean rag and lubricating it with fresh engine oil. Pistons must be installed exactly in the cylinders from which they were removed. Also, the connecting rod caps with connecting rod bearings must be put on the same connecting rods from which they were removed.
If the wear of the connecting rod bearings allows them to be reused, then there is no need to replace them, since this will require boring the crankshaft journals. You won’t be able to do this kind of work on your own without experience.
Tools required for work
To replace the rings you will need:
- sets of open-end and ring wrenches, as well as wrenches with an extension and heads with a nominal value of 10 – 19;
- torque wrench;
- specialist. crimp (mandrel).
In addition, you will need an oil-resistant sealant. It will come in handy when installing the oil pan and valve cover gaskets.
And there seems to be nothing complicated in the steps listed above, if the replacement is made without removing the engine from the car. However, there are nuances without which an engine with new rings will not work for a long time. When the cylinder reaches the extreme stage of wear, a “step” is formed on the surface of its mirror. Having hit it, the new ring will either break immediately or get a crack, which will ultimately lead to its failure. In addition, the grooves of the old piston also have wear, so grinding new rings to the cylinder will be difficult or completely impossible. This means that it is better to entrust the troubleshooting of the piston group and cylinders to professionals.
Boring and honing of cylinders should also be carried out by qualified specialists. In addition, this work cannot be done without removing the engine. Therefore, before getting down to business, you should think carefully and realistically assess your strengths and capabilities. So that the result of the repair would not be the replacement of the piston group as a whole, or even worse, it would not be necessary to submit the engine for a major overhaul.
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How to replace the front cuff
Regardless of whether your VAZ-2109 has a carburetor or is driven by an injector, the work of replacing oil seals follows the same principle. The front oil seal wears out the fastest. It is easier to change, since it does not require dismantling the clutch system.
To carry out the work you will need to have on hand:
- standard sets of keys and screwdrivers;
- clean container;
- rags.
Since the work is carried out on the engine, disconnect it from the power system - remove the negative terminal from the battery. If you are not confident in your abilities, watch the video instructions in advance.
After such preliminary preparation, you can begin work on replacing the front oil seal:
- Loosen the generator mounting bolts.
- Remove the belt drive.
- Drain the engine oil into a prepared container.
- Remove the protective casing from the power unit.
- Remove the oil pan.
- Gently and carefully remove the belt from the camshaft. Make sure that the crankshaft or camshaft does not rotate while removing the belt. Otherwise, the pistons will hit the valves and deform them. This will result in the need to install new valves.
- Using two screwdrivers, remove the crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the key.
- Find the 2 oil pickup bolts, unscrew them and remove this unit.
- The oil pump is held in place by 6 bolts, remove them before removing this unit.
- Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the old seal from the crankshaft. It is important that it has a fairly impressive size and is made of durable metal. Otherwise, the blade of the screwdriver may break off while performing this procedure. Remember that work with the shafts must be carried out carefully, avoiding rotation.
- Clean the oil seal location and lubricate it.
- Place the cuff, tucking its working part inward.
- Crimping is carried out using a frame of the required diameter.
- Wash the oil pump cover with gasoline and return it to its place.
- Starting with the oil pump, reassemble the mechanism in reverse order.
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Replacing the front cuff
As mentioned above, replacing the front crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2109 is the most common and popular procedure, therefore, when carrying out repair work, it is very important to strictly follow all the recommendations of the manufacturer and be extremely careful, since the properties of the rubber from which the oil seal is made are such that it is very easy to damage during installation. There are two ways to replace the front crankshaft cuff: quick - “homemade” and recommended by the manufacturer.
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In what cases is it necessary to change the earbuds?
1. The main reason is simple physical wear and tear.
As the liners wear, free movement of the crankshaft will appear, as well as a reduced degree of lubrication due to a drop in oil pressure. 2. Rotating the liners. The most common causes of this malfunction are the following:
- the lubricant has become extremely viscous, abrasive compounds have entered it, and it may be that it has disappeared altogether;
- the bearing caps are not tensioned sufficiently;
- excessively liquid consistency of the engine oil, as well as operation of the power unit at extreme conditions.
Problems when paying with bank cards
Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:
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- There are not enough funds on the plastic card.
In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.
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Installing a crankshaft on a VAZ
Crankshaft repair
Overhaul of a VAZ 21083 engine usually consists of disassembling the unit, troubleshooting parts, boring the crankshaft and cylinders, and assembling the engine. Disassembling the engine is a simple matter, troubleshooting and boring are also simple procedures. But you need to assemble the motor extremely carefully, carefully following the instructions.
Let's start by installing the crankshaft into the cylinder block. Remember: cylinder and main bearing numbers are counted from right to left as the vehicle moves. That is, 1 cylinder is located near the pump and timing drive, and 4 is located near the clutch and gearbox.
- Turn the block upside down.
- We place the main bearing shells with the locking protrusions into the grooves of the beds. In the 3rd bed (middle) we put the liner without a groove, and in the remaining 4 - with grooves.
- Lubricate the liners with engine oil.
- Lubricate the crankshaft journals with oil and place it in bed, with the flywheel flange facing the 4th cylinder.
- We insert thrust half rings into the grooves of the middle main bearing. Each half-ring has 2 notches on one side. Using these sides we install the half rings to the crankshaft cheeks. We place the white half-ring in front (on the pulley side), and the yellow half-ring in the back (on the flywheel side).
- We rotate the half rings so that their tips are flush with the ends of the bed.
- We place liners without grooves in the main bearing caps, with locking protrusions in the grooves, and lubricate them.
- We place the main bearing caps on their corresponding beds with notches in the direction of mounting the generator. 1 cover is marked with one notch, 2 - two notches and 2 holes, 3 - three, 4 - four, 5 - two.
- We secure the covers with bolts.
- Tighten the cover bolts in the following sequence - first cover bolts 3, then 2 and 4, and finally cover bolts 1 and 5.
- After this, we rotate the shaft; if it jams, we look for the cause and eliminate it. If it doesn’t jam, check the axial clearance of the crankshaft; if it is more than 0.26 mm, replace the half rings with thicker ones. If the gap is normal, we proceed to install the oil seals and oil pump.
