Priora wheel bearing size

For cars of the following families: LADA Samara, LADA 110, LADA 2101-07, LADA 4x4, LADA Kalina, LADA Priora

delivered to the conveyor of JSC AVTOVAZ;

the use of chromium-containing steels in the production of bearings ensures their high static and dynamic load-carrying capacity;

additional grinding and polishing of the rotating bodies ensures high resistance to cyclic loads and guarantees a service life of up to 60,000 km;

For product packaging, oiled film is used (using anti-corrosion materials), which prevents the ingress of moisture, dust and dirt;

The manufacturer's brand logo is applied to the branded packaging.

Hello guys! Tell me the size of the front wheel bearing for 09 Priora hatch) and which company is better and will last for a long time.

It closed itself on the standard alarm

by Adminrive · Published 05/02/2017

Hi all

by Adminrive · Published 04/21/2017

Good afternoon

by Adminrive · Published 04/11/2017

Comments 10
Pingbacks 0

You go to the store, say wheel bearing, take the most expensive one) I don’t understand why the size...

Alexey, every now and then he went and asked and the answer was to find out the sizes)

Erbol, why size? For front-wheel drive cans they are the same. SKF company standards

Ivan, how much will it cost?

As far as I've heard, if without ABS it's a figure-eight bearing, and if with ABS then it's your own...look on the forums, or you can actually remove it and take it to the store with it)

Bayan, ok thanks)

Not all are the same for front-wheel drive, the rear ones are all the same, but take the front ones from Priorovsk and they still fit from the viburnum

Erbol, ten-wheelers will not fit, the hub size is different

While driving, an unpleasant cracking noise may be heard in the area of the front or rear wheel. It usually disappears when turning. This behavior of the chassis indicates that the wheel bearing requires replacement. A malfunction occurs in almost every car that has already experienced a lot of mileage. The condition of the front or rear wheel bearing is also affected by driving style. The replacement is quite simple, but the driver will have to remove the strut and then take the Priora to a wheel alignment.

Priora wheel bearing size

While driving, an unpleasant cracking noise may be heard in the area of the front or rear wheel.
It usually disappears when turning. This behavior of the chassis indicates that the wheel bearing requires replacement. A malfunction occurs in almost every car that has already experienced a lot of mileage. The condition of the front or rear wheel bearing is also affected by driving style. The replacement is quite simple, but the driver will have to remove the strut and then take the Priora to a wheel alignment. Don't want extra costs? Then read how to replace a wheel bearing without dismantling the strut and subsequent “camber” .

Recommendations

Comments 14

ANY priors have a bearing from Kalina. Of course, exceptions to the rules or alterations by previous owners are not excluded.

I have “tenth” bearings, Priora ’08. www.drive2.ru/l/536633418562142803/

The 10th does not fit on the Priora, they are identical to the Kalina!

When the front one began to hum, I came to the store, they gave me a Priora from Kalina, it was either from Kaldina or from 10K-I xs

All Priora have front step from Kalina

I changed the front hub in the fall. 2008, installed this:

This question also came up recently, 1 Kalinovsky - 68x35x37

2 Eight - 64x34x37. They told me to buy a Kalinovsky from a Yen Prior 2013, I bought it, I thought I would change it, but listening with a stethoscope said not to rush... everything is still going well. Maybe there is an opportunity to agree to take both, and return one based on the results? But I’m inclined that you also have a Kalinovsky, although I never found out which one on mine)), FAG is now in the stash)

And I didn’t encounter vibration at 110 km, I think it was the front hub or hardly

This question also came up recently, 1 Kalinovsky - 68x35x37

Preparing for work

This process is best carried out in the light if we are talking about the street. A bearing is a miniature component. It will be ideal if you drive Priora into the inspection hole. We will disassemble the front hub part, since this is more difficult than carrying out the same operation with the rear hub, especially without removing the strut. And now to the tools:

Spanners for 17, 19.
A bearing puller is the main tool, so without it you will have to dismantle the strut and perform a wheel alignment.
The head is 30, it is desirable that it be equipped with a reliable wrench.
The frame is usually a homemade tool, which is a cut of a pipe of a certain size. With its help we will knock out the hub.
WD-40 lubricant.

Lada Priora, like other passenger models of this brand, is a front-wheel drive vehicle. There are many more parts in the front, hence the more complex process of removing the bearing. The rear support component of the hub is removed in the same way; you will need less time to do it, so the instructions describe the rear support bearing.

Bearing replacement

The process begins with flaring the hub nut, after which you can pull off the fastener. We will have to disassemble almost the entire hub, so each fastener that needs to be unscrewed should be lubricated with WD-40;

What are the best bearings to install on Priora?

You have already figured out how the replacement takes place without dismantling the rack. But some owners of Lada Priora have a question: what is better to choose - a standard part or an alternative one. The most important thing is that it is a ball component; roller ones are not as durable. If there is no option for Lada Priora in the store, then it is better to take a part for Kalina. Some motorists recommend buying cheaper bearings for the “ten”, but it is better to look for more modern options.

Video on replacing the wheel bearing on a Priora is below.

The wheel bearing is a small but quite important part of the car - one of those that directly affects the safety of the driver and passengers. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the bearings and periodically check their condition. If, when rocking a wheel that has been hung, play is felt, or noise appears during movement, it is better to replace the wheel bearing.

However, if the play is increased, you can try to loosen the nut and check the tightening torque. If it is less than permissible, then you can tighten and lock the nut again. So the wheel bearing on the Priora will probably last for some time.

To press the bearing in, you just need to use the appropriately sized mandrels that are included in the kit. If you don’t have mandrels, you can use the rings of the old bearing.

The rear wheel bearing of the Priora is not a scarce part at all. Priora rear hubs are available for sale from a variety of manufacturers - both domestic and foreign. In any case, the price is relatively small. If you are in doubt whether the wheel bearing is suitable for Lada Priora cars, the dimensions are indicated on the product itself.

Replacing the rear wheel bearing on a Priora can be done at a car service center, or independently. Let's carefully consider the second option.

First, let's prepare everything you need. We will need a 30mm socket wrench, a thin chisel, pliers for removing the retaining rings and two pullers - a universal one and one for pressing out the bearing.

Remove the decorative cap and hub. This is done like this: first we unlock the hub nut. Then loosen the tightening of this nut and the wheel bolts. We engage first gear and install reliable stops under the wheels of the front axle. We lift the back part and install it on the stops. Remove the wheel, brake drum and brake pads. Finally unscrew the hub nut and remove the thrust washer.

Next, using the prepared puller, we press the hub from its axis, clamp it in a vice and remove the retaining ring.

We also use a puller to press the old bearing out of the hub. We clean it and press in a new bearing for the Priora front hub. Reinstall the previously removed retaining ring.

Using a suitable mandrel, press the hub onto the axle and install the brake drum and wheel in place. We lower the jack and finally tighten the hub nut (it’s better to buy a new one). Then we lock it and install the removed cap on the hub. Congratulations, you have replaced the wheel bearing on a Priora yourself.

Good day everyone, I was concerned about replacing the front wheel bearings on the Lada Priora, having carefully studied the information on the Internet, it was established: 1. dimensions of the front wheel bearing are 35x68x37 (Kalina/Priora); 2. Thus we have the following options: FAG: 713 6140 30 (set + nut); FAG: 713 6900 50 (set + nut); FAG: 713 8045 10 (2 bearings included); SKF VKBA 3441 (set + nut); SKF VKBA 1414 (set + nut); SKF VKBA 1315 (set + nut); SKF BAH-0031 D (bare bearing). Anyone who has real operating experience, please share your impressions, thank you!

Lada Priora Hatchback Pisdets › Logbook › Fag in my hubs!

They sentenced me to 3 wheel bearings, 2 front and 1 rear. I started googling the Internet to find the best option; I really didn’t want to install the original LADA. I needed the best possible ones, so I decided to try FAG.

Some information about FAG:

The concern's production facilities have the most extensive geography: the USA, Great Britain, the Czech Republic, China, Brazil, Korea and other countries. The company is the official supplier of auto components for Mercedes, VW, Volvo, Nissan, Honda and other automakers. At the end of 2001, a large German bearing manufacturer, the INA group, bought more than 90 percent of the company's shares. Once united, the new company Schaeffler KG became the second largest in the world.

About the bearings themselves:

Front - Fag manufacturer number: 713 6140 30

Installed on cars: SKODA: Favorit Felicia VOLKSWAGEN: Caddy pickup. Bearing dimensions: outerØ [mm] 68 innerØ [mm] 35 Width (mm) 37 The kit includes: Bearing + Retaining ring + hub nut. Produced at a plant in India (You can see it in the photographs) It is a substitute for the original VAG number: 6U0 498 003 Average price per piece: 1250 rubles

Rear – Fag Manufacturer Number: 545312A

Installed on cars: FIAT: MILLE CLIP, UNO. Bearing dimensions: outerØ [mm] 60 innerØ [mm] 30 Width (mm) 37 Includes: Bearing only. Produced at a plant in Germany (You can see it in the photographs) It is a substitute for the original Fiat/Alfa/Lancia number: 7 171 4455 Average price per piece: 500 rubles

Interesting point:

While I was studying catalogs I came across a kit for the front axle! Its original number: FAG 713804510. (I managed to buy it for 1800 rubles)

The difference is that this kit simply packs 2 bearings. Now it is more expensive than buying them separately, but whoever looks for will always find)))

And in conclusion:

Everything worked as if it were original, the car became much quieter, the hum disappeared. Well, only time will tell how long they will last.

Price for work:

Front: The hubs were removed and taken to a service station 350*2=700 rubles Rear: 400 rubles Total: 1100 rubles

The replacement cost

Bearing set 1800 rubles + rear 450 rubles + labor 1100 = 3350 rubles

Thank you

karmanych for removing the hubs and Sanych14 for taking them to the service station.

P/S

I wanted to take photos of the bearings from the garage, but I didn’t have time to take them. These are the only photos left.

Analogue bearings

As an alternative, you can consider the products of two manufacturers:

The products of these companies have proven themselves well. The cost is approximately 1 thousand rubles. The contents are identical to the original delivery.

In practice, it has been revealed that a bearing from a VAZ-2108 may be suitable for the LADA Kalina hub, but it is a few hundredths of a millimeter narrower. Experts do not advise leaning towards this alternative, since there have been cases when the product rotated inside the hub.

Tips, tricks and repair videos from specialists

1. The parts of the front wheels wear out evenly, so when replacing one side, be sure to check or change the other.2. If you do not have a puller, as well as a vice (press), it is recommended to take the assembly to a car workshop for pressing / pressing.3. It is recommended to press-fit using non-impact methods.4. Life hack: heat the steering knuckle before inserting p/w.5. Be sure to lock the hub nut after tightening.6. When assembling, treat threaded connections with graphite lubricant.7. Before installation, check the amount of lubricant inside the unit by carefully opening the rubber seal.8. Buy spare parts from certified stores, ask for documents for original products.9. This video collection presents a detailed replacement process.

The Prior release bearing is an integral element of the clutch system, which is involved in the gear shifting process. The part is involved in the process of pressing the clutch pedal and changing gear, and is responsible for disconnecting the clutch discs.

If we talk about the service life of the bearing, in most cases it is quite long and amounts to at least 100 thousand kilometers of the vehicle. However, during operation in difficult conditions (off-road, constant switching in traffic jams, lack of lubrication), faults are diagnosed even after 15 thousand mileage.

Structure and types of bearings

The product consists of the following parts:

pairs of rings (external and internal), between which the rolling elements are located;
rotating elements (balls, conical or cylindrical rollers);
a separator (made of steel, non-ferrous metal or plastic) separating or holding the rolling elements at a given distance;
protective washers that hold the lubricant inside the structure (they are not always used, they are present in ball bearings for a number of automobile hubs);
rings holding the product in the unit body (found on units intended for installing shafts in the gearbox of VAZ or foreign cars).

Bearings are divided into 2 types:

sliding (for example, used in crankshaft bearings of car engines);
rolling (divided into conical, ball or needle).

Replacing the rear wheel bearing on a Priora

Before we begin the repair, the following preparations must be completed:

Raise the rear of the car with a jack
Remove the rear wheel
Remove the brake drum

Now you can proceed further with the repair. Using a socket and a wrench, unscrew the hub mounting nut, as shown in the photo below.

2. When this is done, you can begin to remove the hub and bearing assembly. To do this, it is most convenient to use a special device - a puller with rotary grips.

3. Now, using a wrench, we turn the puller rod clockwise, thereby pulling the hub off the axle, as it were:

The result of the work done is shown in the photo below.

4. Next comes the most difficult thing - removing the bearing from the hub itself. To do this, turn it over with the inside facing up and clamp it in a vice. Then, using pliers, tighten the locking ring and remove it.

5. And then we turn the hub over to the other side so that the bearing can be “squeezed” out of the hub downwards, or carefully knocked out using a spacer or other available tool. Of course, for good measure, you will need a press, but you must admit that not every car owner has such equipment in the garage.

Personally, in this example, a 30 mm socket was used, and a knob was paired with it to hold it. With small blows of a hammer, the bearing is easily knocked out of the hub.

The result of this procedure is shown clearly below.

6. The inside of the hub must be thoroughly cleaned and a Litol-type lubricant applied to the inside.

7. After which you can replace the bearing - the new one is installed in the reverse order. To press it in, it is convenient to use an old bearing, and carefully use a hammer to install everything in place.

Let's see what it looks like in practice.

Also, instead of a hammer, you can do everything more accurately and correctly by using a vice instead of a press. I think that the meaning of this manipulation is quite clear to everyone. We press the bearing until a groove appears for installing the retaining ring.

Detailed instructions for replacing the product

To begin work, you will need to place the car on a flat surface.

Loosen the wheel bolts. Place chocks under both sides of the wheels. If they are unavailable, you can use ordinary bricks.

Raise the car on a jack.

For insurance, place a stop under the side member, using the spare wheel.

Engage forward gear.

Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel. Next, unscrew the hub nut.

It is necessary to unscrew the nuts on both sides of the brake caliper.

Use a screwdriver to push the brake pads apart.

Using wrench No. 17, unscrew the rear bolts.

Remove the caliper and move it to the side. We tie it with wire for convenience.

The hub nut has been removed. Remove the brake disc.

In order to remove the hub we will use a puller.

Unscrew the nuts securing the casing and dismantle it.

Unscrew the ball joint nuts.

Remove the fasteners that secure the pivot pin to the rack.

Disconnect the steering knuckle.

Using a vice, clamp the steering knuckle. The hub should be located at the bottom.

We install a metal mandrel with a diameter of 32 mm. We hit the mandrel with a hammer and knock out the hub. The inner bearing race will remain on it.

Using a chisel and hammer, we expand the clearance for the puller. Next, use a puller to remove the clip.

It could be easier. Using an angle grinder (grinder), we make a cut across the holder. Next, hit it hard with a hammer. The clip shatters into pieces.

We proceed to remove the other bearing race that remains in the fist.

Using round-nose pliers, remove the retaining ring.

We insert the mandrel and clamp everything together in a vice.

We tighten the vice and at the same time squeeze out the bearing ring.

We clean the bearing seat from dirt and oil. Wash with diesel fuel and wipe with a rag.

Lubricate the surface with lithol.

We insert the bearing into the hole and, using a mandrel, carefully drive it in 10mm. We make sure that there are no distortions.

The retaining ring needs to be installed.

Next, press the hub using a vice.

Then we mount it all on the rack. And we carry out installation in the same sequence as dismantling, but in reverse order.

So you have managed to replace the front wheel bearing for your VAZ 2170.

It's not that difficult.

What front wheel bearing is in Priora: dimensions, number, prices, characteristics

The dimensions of the front wheel bearing, as well as the catalog numbers of recommended manufacturers, are presented in the tables in a similar article on replacing the wheel bearing in a LADA Granta car; look for detailed information there.

GOST: 6-256707А1КЭ12 ISO: 256707А1КЭ12.P6Q6/L2 Factory article: 11180-3103020-00 SKF: VKBA1414 FAG: 713 6140 30

While driving, an unpleasant cracking noise may be heard in the area of the front or rear wheel. It usually disappears when turning. This behavior of the chassis indicates that the wheel bearing requires replacement. A malfunction occurs in almost every car that has already experienced a lot of mileage. The condition of the front or rear wheel bearing is also affected by driving style. The replacement is quite simple, but the motorist will have to remove the strut and then drive the Priora for wheel alignment.

Don't want extra costs? Then read how to replace a wheel bearing without dismantling the strut and subsequent “camber”.

How to diagnose the front wheel bearing on a Priora and the causes of failure

At the beginning of the article, signs of a malfunction were already mentioned, if they occur in the VAZ 2170, it is necessary to check the hub assembly. To diagnose a breakdown, it is enough to do several operations:

Raise the car with a jack;
Check the play of the suspended wheel with your hands;
Rotate the wheel and listen for noise;
Watch several videos on the principle of diagnosing the front wheel bearing of a Priora.

Faulty wheel bearing:

An example of the operation of a failed wheel bearing:

How to check the ball bearing of a wheel hub:

Wheel bearing diagnostics:

Why does the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2170 (Priora) fail:

Expiration of service life;
Incorrect operation of the suspension, aggressive driving style, road quality;
Poor quality ball bearing (defect, counterfeit, manufacturing defect);
Depressurization (dust, moisture, dirt);
Malfunction of adjacent components (brake disc imbalance, etc.);
Road accidents, collisions with deep potholes in the asphalt or holes.

Priora front wheel bearing with abs

Articles:
1. Checking the front wheel bearing on a Priora
2. Design of the unit and methods for replacing the wheel bearing
3. Instructions for removing the old ball bearing
4. Pressing in a new part, assembly and installation of the unit
5. How to choose a replacement bearing: price, number, dimensions
6. Tips, tricks and useful repair videos

The front wheel bearing on the Priora VAZ 2170, as on other VAZ cars, often fails, especially when the mileage exceeds 80,000 km. First there is noise from the wheel, which can increase during acceleration. Vibration also often occurs, wheel play increases, and in some cases the noise turns into a grinding sound - all these signs mean that the front wheel bearing of the LADA Priora requires immediate replacement. If you delay repairs, the consequences can lead to Niva wheels getting stuck, which leads to unsafe situations on the road.

This article will tell in detail about the principles of replacing wheel ball bearings (hereinafter referred to as SP) on cars of the VAZ family, in particular on the LADA Priora. The instructions are accompanied by many photos and videos. The material also provides information on how to choose a front wheel bearing for Priora by number, size, price, and manufacturer.

After reading the article, you will understand that replacing the front wheel bearing is done with your own hands without special skills, experience, or special tools, and the price for repair work of this type in a car repair shop is very high.

How to change the bearing on the front hub of a Priora

Before replacing the front wheel bearing, you should remove dirt and corrosion from the inner surface of the knuckle, as well as from the hub. The parts are wiped with a rag, and the seating surfaces are lubricated with machine oil. Replacement is carried out according to step-by-step instructions.

We insert the new rolling element into the mounting hole, then hammer it through a wooden spacer evenly, without distortions, to a depth of 3-5 mm.
Don't forget to put a retaining ring on the arc side.
We press the ball bearing through a vice with a mandrel (or a piece of pipe), as shown below. Here you can also use a removable cup-type device.
Insert the second locking element.
Now you need to press the hub into the ball bearing hole. It is recommended to use the same mandrels.
The assembled unit is mounted back onto the rack and ball joint. Then the locknut is tightened with a torque wrench (for tightening torque, see the table below).
Further assembly is carried out in reverse order. We recommend watching the video of replacing the front wheel bearing on a Priora at the end of this article.

How to distinguish an original from a fake

Before buying bearings, you need to find out the characteristics of the original product. For example, special coded markings can be applied to rings, and a holographic label can be applied to cardboard packaging. Some manufacturers include mounting elements (for example, fastening nuts or seals) in the kit, allowing assembly of the unit without purchasing additional spare parts.

Information about the labeling or composition of the kit is available on the websites or in the official catalogs of manufacturers.

In mid-2022, the JTECT concern, which owns the Japanese manufacturer Koyo, together with the WBA (World Bearing Association, an international association of bearing manufacturers), introduced a program to verify the authenticity of products using a QR code printed on the packaging. After comparing the information with the database, a green or red indicator is displayed on the smartphone screen, indicating the original origin or counterfeit. As of mid-2022, the labeling program is in the development stage, and mass application of labels on packaging has not begun.

Rear wheel bearing for Priora - part price

A new bearing for the rear hub on a Priora can cost differently, and it all depends on the manufacturer:

QML 636 rub.
SDR 720 rub.
ANDYCAR 690 rub.
VBF 1050 rub.
AvtoVAZ 980 rub.

Of course, you can buy the cheapest bearing for the Priora, but it is not a fact that it will safely last the period you expect.

The appearance of a dull knock in the rear wheel, especially pronounced when driving over rough terrain, indicates wear of the rear wheel hub bearing on a Lada Priora car. In addition to knocking, wear is also indicated by the presence of a howling noise when moving. To finally make sure that the bearing is faulty, you need to hang the rear wheel and try to rock it with both hands; if there is play, you will immediately feel it by characteristic knocking sounds. As a rule, this bearing does not require adjustment, but if play is detected, you can try tightening the hub nut; if this step does not help, then we proceed to repair.

Is it worth buying the original?

It is often advised to buy original bearings. An original is a part selected by a car manufacturer for sale on markets. These are the parts that are delivered to conveyors. When buying an original bearing, you will be absolutely sure that it will suit you. But there are several questions that need to be addressed here.

The original or a fake?

The original bearings are all the same and if you examine it carefully you will find the engraving. It is located on the edge of the upper or lower part. It should contain several information:

manufacturer (logo);
Country of Origin;
designation digital or alphanumeric details, sizes;
Additional information is possible;
The kit must include a hub nut (usually disposable), there may be pins or bolts, seals.

SKF brand
Full bearing designation
Manufacturer country
Production date code
Deviation of the average outer diameter ∆Dm [µm] and the position of the maximum eccentricity of the outer ring
Deviation of the average bore diameter ∆dm [µm] and position of the maximum eccentricity of the inner ring
Marking of thrust end, stamping
Serial number (for bearing sets only)
"V" marking (matched bearing sets only)

If the country of origin is not indicated, it is not an original, but a fake.

Is it worth paying extra for the original?

As a rule, you will find completely similar bearings from different companies on the market. So is it worth paying more for the original if other companies produce the same parts? If you decide to pay attention to any company, then choose well-known, popular manufacturers that supply parts to conveyors. Some people prefer Japanese companies, others prefer European products, for example, they trust only German quality. Our rating of the best manufacturers will help you determine which wheel bearing company is better and who to give preference to. Even if these companies offer products made in China, they will be high-quality products that meet all the requirements. Pay attention not to the country of origin, but rather to the supplier’s brand.

Replacement

The work must be carried out using the necessary tools. There are two options for replacing the wheel bearing - with subsequent wheel geometry and without its need. The replacement is similar for all VAZ cars (front-wheel drive).

Tool you will need:

Ratchet with head "7", "10", "13", "17", "19" or E30;
A key for unscrewing the CV joint or a head at “30”;
Powerful flat head screwdriver;
Gas torch or wheel bearing puller;
Hammer;
Steering wheel end puller (may not be needed);

Replacement with subsequent wheel geometry

You need to start by unscrewing the CV joint nut; the car should be installed on a horizontal plane with the steering wheel turned slightly to the side. Using a wrench, unscrew the grenade nut counterclockwise.

We unscrew the caliper from the steering knuckle and hang it by the wire (under no circumstances hang the caliper by the brake hose).

We dismantle the brake disc by unscrewing the guides.

Unscrew the two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle.

Unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint.

We remove the steering knuckle from the car.

We take out the retaining rings on both sides of the fist.

Next we need to knock out the old bearing; for this you can use a punch of the required diameter or use a puller.

Then, once the bearing is removed, a new one must be installed. Pre-install one retaining ring and press in a new one on the opposite side.

If you have a puller, then carefully press in the new bearing, avoiding distortion.

If you don’t have a puller, you first need to put the new bearing in the freezer for a couple of hours.