Rear wheel bearing on Kalina: design features and typical faults.
Algorithm for replacing the rear wheel bearing on Kalina with photos and videos. The Lada Kalina rear wheel bearing is a resource-intensive part (the bearing remains functional at levels up to 200,000 km and above), however, Russian operational realities reduce the resource potential and the bearing often fails even on relatively new cars. The breakdown is that the bearing cage falls apart and the rollers get knocked to one side.
Signs of a bad wheel bearing
The rear wheel bearing on Kalina wears out gradually. Instant breakdown is possible in the event of a traffic accident. Excessive wear has virtually no effect on the driving performance of the car. You can suspect impending bearing failure by an uncharacteristic hum that appears in the rear wheel area when driving.
In this case, the hum appears only when the spare part is worn out. Moreover, immediately before a breakdown, the hum increases and turns into a permanent crunch; problems with handling begin - the car drives from side to side. In the early stages, a breakdown can only be diagnosed using service equipment.
Hub design
The peculiarity of wheel bearings is that they do not require any maintenance during the operation of the car. In other words, they do not need to be lubricated, repaired or adjusted. When worn, the hub bearing must only be replaced.
On a Lada Kalina car, the rear hub consists of 9 elements, which are assembled in the following sequence.
- Hub rod.
- Dirt protection rim.
- Open retaining ring.
- Wheel bearing.
- Hub.
- Intermediate washer.
- Bolt for securing the hub.
- A rim that acts as a seal.
- Protective cap.
Tools that will be required to replace the wheel bearing on Kalina's rear wheel:
- small chisel;
- socket wrench 30;
- special puller for an open ring;
- puller for displacing the bearing;
- universal type puller.
Before you begin replacing the bearing, you need to make sure that the car is securely in place. It is extremely important to follow safety precautions. There should be supports under the other wheels of the car. It is also worth checking the serviceability of the jack. Once you have ensured that the vehicle is securely positioned, you can begin updating the hub mechanism.
Causes of rear wheel bearing failure on Kalina
There are a number of factors that contribute to wheel bearing failure. The most common:
- a traffic accident or other sudden mechanical impact on this part of the car;
- over-tightening of the tapered bushing;
- systematic overheating of the part;
- factory defects (incorrectly set gap);
- bearing seal failure;
- the use of low quality lubricants or lack of lubrication in the unit.
Troubleshooting
As noted above, a constant hum is the main sign that the wheel bearing has become unusable. Extraneous sounds begin to appear at speeds of 40-60 km/h. Another old-fashioned diagnostic method is tapping the tires with your foot. If the wheel wobbles or there is play, then most likely the hub is faulty.
You can also check the serviceability of the element by hanging the back of the Lada and rotating the wheel. Play, crunching, and vibrations in a suspended wheel will indicate a hub failure.
Buying a new part
The components for the rear wheel hub are unified, so they are suitable not only for Kalina, but also for Granta and Datsun. Depending on the manufacturer, the cost of a set of parts will be in the range of 600-1100 rubles.
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Comments 41
soon this one will be covered too, put the graphite where the friction metal metal goes, well, nevermind, I was also mistaken, on the advice of yonnex001 I filled in the VPM water-repellent Rubin lubricant for 60 rubles, and with pressing in the bearing you are of course rude... although in this car it’s the only way, through everything comes with a sledgehammer)))
Yonnex001 just approved my lubricant, and it turned out to be not graphite. For heavily loaded bearings, 11 tkm have already run, there is no play. A sledgehammer and a huge vice are the main argument for repairs)
Put the sledgehammer aside for the future: everything that needs to be pressed in must be pressed in with a press! Smooth, uniform load, and the shock nature will break your landing!
When choosing the bearing, was Koyo not an option?
I wasn't particularly interested. I went to the store, there were three options for 400-600 rubles, and skf is the most expensive, in my opinion 800, so I took it
soon this one will be covered too, put the graphite where the friction metal metal goes, well, nevermind, I was also mistaken, on the advice of yonnex001 I filled in the VPM water-repellent Rubin lubricant for 60 rubles, and with pressing in the bearing you are of course rude... although in this car it’s the only way, through everything comes with a sledgehammer)))
Rubin is a good lubricant for components that do not exclude contact with water, but does not mean that it is the only suitable and best)
I know that it’s the cheapest, I suggested it as an option)
The new bearing is successfully pressed in a vice, pressed to the end by the old bearing, there is no need to pound anything! To reduce mass, I press only the outer ring. The price for the pads is crazy! I bought 3 sets of 299x for this money)
My vices are a little old for this (they don’t open that much. Pads - yes! I try to slow down less, I save money))
The new bearing is successfully pressed in a vice, pressed to the end by the old bearing, there is no need to pound anything! To reduce mass, I press only the outer ring. The price for the pads is crazy! I bought 3 sets of 299x for this money)
The price of the pads is fire of course!
