Cooling system VAZ 2107 injector and carburetor: repair and replacement of pipe with photo and video

Cooling design of car drive

The hydraulic cooling system of a car is a group of devices and pipelines connecting them, as well as channels in the internal combustion engine block, which allow the heat received from the parts to be removed from the parts during the operation of the mechanisms.

Structure of the cooling system in the VAZ-2107:

• radiator;
• expansion tank;
• water pump;
• thermostat;
• fan.

You may also be interested in an article by our specialist, which describes in detail how to adjust the carburetor on a VAZ-2107.

The main task of the cooling structure is to maintain the optimal temperature when the engine is running, regardless of operating conditions, by removing part of the heat produced in it through the coolant. Cars use an intermediate cooling layout:

• heat from the engine;
• coolant;
• heat exchanger, such as a radiator.

Consequently, the cooling design prevents overheating of the engine and a decrease in temperature below the optimal value, which ensures stable operation of the motor, good lubrication of rubbing parts, and reduction of gaps when parts come into contact. In the 2107 car model with an injector, a heated throttle body is installed.

The heat received from the engine can be used to heat the car. This task is implemented by a second heat exchanger of similar design, in which the process opposite to the cooling radiator occurs. Heated air from the heat exchanger is supplied to the vehicle interior.

The structure of the VAZ-2107 carburetor engine cooling system consists of two circuits:

• circulation of coolant in a small circle inside the engine;
• the contour of a large circle, which includes the radiator and expansion tank.

Thermal comfort of a modern engine requires cooling consisting of two independent circuits - for the block and the cylinder head. This allows the cylinders to reach high temperatures to improve their lubrication, since the oil viscosity is lower and frictional resistance is also reduced. The temperature of the block head also decreases, which protects the engine from detonation combustion of fuel.

A modern view of regulating the temperature conditions of the engine using the so-called smart cooling system 21074 with an injector includes:

• electronic control of the pump regardless of engine operation;
• fan with adjustable variable speed;
• coolant temperature sensors placed in the cylinder head gasket to monitor engine operating conditions;
• multifunctional valve instead of a traditional thermostat.

Such a device quickly and flexibly regulates the fluid temperature in the current operating mode of the engine. Its maintenance consists of the following operations:

• control and periodic replenishment of the amount of refrigerant;
• checking the tightness of the hydraulic system;
• coolant suitability test;
• periodic replacement of antifreeze;
• monitoring the operation of sensors and indicators.

Replacing the water pump

The pump (water pump) of the VAZ 21014 ensures the circulation of fluid throughout the system, and it is this that most often fails. A faulty water pump is indicated by traces of coolant leakage, as well as a characteristic hum when the engine is running. If the unit is faulty, it will need to be replaced.

Replacing the pump on a VAZ 21074 yourself will require the following tools:

• ratchet, large and small;
• open-end wrench 13;
• extension;
• socket heads for 10 and 13;
• container for draining liquid;
• flat screwdriver.

The procedure for replacing the pump in the VAZ 2107 injector engine cooling system will be as follows:

1. The plug on the left side of the engine block is unscrewed and the coolant is drained into a specially prepared container. If you need to completely replace the coolant, then the drain plug is unscrewed on the cooling radiator too.
2. The generator belt is removed by unscrewing the tension nut.
3. Using a screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp that fits the pump. After this, the pipe is removed with little effort.
4. Next, use a ratchet handle with a 10mm socket to unscrew and remove the thin coolant supply tube. You should act carefully so as not to accidentally damage the tube.
5. The longest bolt securing the pump body, located on top, is unscrewed. After unscrewing, the bolt must be removed, sometimes you have to use penetrating lubricant to do this.
6. The two remaining bolts at the bottom are unscrewed. An open-end wrench is best suited for this.
7. The pump along with the housing is carefully removed and pulled out. The seat needs to be thoroughly cleaned.
8. The new pump is put into place in the reverse order. In this case, it is advisable to replace all gaskets. After the pump has been successfully replaced, coolant is poured into the system.
9. At the end of the work, you will need to bleed the system. To do this, disconnect the hose from the intake manifold.

Replacing a pump on a VAZ 2107 injector usually takes no more than an hour.

Movement is life, but movement is warmth. Try rubbing your palms together and see for yourself. Heat is the final transformation of all energies into each other. In the human body, mutual transformations of proteins, fats, and carbohydrates occur, which as a result decompose through multi-stage enzymatic oxidation with the release of heat. In the heart of a car engine, chemical transformations of fuel into exhaust gases and water also occur, releasing a large amount of energy, which is converted into mechanical energy, and some is dissipated as heat. Moreover, this heat must be purposefully collected and removed, no matter how much of it is generated. This is precisely what the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 serves for.

If we remember that the efficiency of a gasoline engine is ideally 25%, and in city traffic jams - about 7%, this means that out of a 40 liters of a fully filled VAZ 2107 tank in city conditions, you spent only three liters on moving the car! How many? We repeat, three liters, we were not mistaken. Where did the other thirty-seven go? That's right, they burned in a useless fire, polluting the air and wearing out the car. The carburetor and injector improve efficiency, but not much. The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is responsible for removing this heat.

The engine cooling system diagram is as follows:

Structure of the main parts of the system: (in the picture there is a VAZ 2106 engine on which a carburetor is installed).

• The actual jacket of the engine cooling system (7), passages and holes in the cylinder block, with its exhaust pipe (4).
• The cooling system pump, or pump (16), during the operation of which coolant (antifreeze, antifreeze) circulates. Its structure is similar to an impeller. It is in a single connection with the generator, a single belt (15).
• Thermostat (18) separates the small (when the engine is cold) and large (when the engine is hot) fluid circulation circles. The thermostat device is simple; its task is to open or close the liquid bypass valve.
• Cooling system hoses (discharging cooled liquid from the radiator and supplying hot liquid to the radiator, thermostat hoses, hoses to the pump, etc.).
• The radiator is the main heat exchanger with a cooling function. The design of the radiator can be different; now aluminum is used, but a copper radiator is much more efficient, but less resistant.
• Radiator fan, commonly known as “Carlson” (11), which turns on if necessary when the engine temperature rises.
• Expansion tank available for visual control of fluid quality and topping up. A durable hose runs from the expansion tank to the radiator neck. Some people think it's a coolant hose, but that's wrong. Its function is simply to keep the radiator filled.

Read also: Mini gas filling station at home
The complete cooling system circuit includes additional parts such as drain plugs, fan switch, fan fuse and others. Let us remind you that on the VAZ 2107 the electrical circuit is such that the fan and sound signal fuse are one common, 10 A. This means that if you beep too much when the fan is running (and this can be easily noticed by the slight noise and increased charge consumption) , then you risk being left with an overheated engine.

The total volume of the cooling system on the VAZ 2107 is 9.85 liters. Inexperienced drivers sometimes find it impossible to fill more than 3-5 liters; this is hampered by air pockets that need to be removed. The volume of plugs can be half the volume of the entire system! The container is designed for a completely filled jacket, hoses, radiator, and expansion tank.

In the cooling system, the freezing point of antifreeze should not be higher than -40 degrees Celsius.

People often ask: injector and carburetor - is there a difference in the cooling system? Yes, there is, but it is insignificant.

The top picture is the carburetor, the bottom picture is the engine on which the injector is installed. The difference is in the installation of the coolant temperature control system sensor (5) if an injector is installed, as well as the presence of a throttle body heating unit (4), in the figure on the right (injector). The engine on which the carburetor is installed has a simpler cooling system.

Flushing the cooling system is recommended with special liquids, but you can prepare them yourself using the example of a mixture for the YaMZ 236 engine (the YaMZ 236 diesel engine is installed on domestic KAMAZ and Ural trucks).

It contains technical hydrochloric acid 30%, PB-5 inhibitor, technical methenamine, defoamer, water. Since the YaMZ 236 engine is a diesel engine that works well at low speeds, these components flush the system well.

Simplified flushing of the cooling system includes clean water with the addition of phosphoric acid, which effectively removes scale both in YaMZ 236 and in “classic” engines.

On a Zhiguli you can buy 10 liters of Coca-Cola and clean the cooling system until the engine is completely warmed up, the main thing is to release the gas from the drink. Since the volume of the YaMZ-236 cooling system is much larger, a lot of Coca-Cola will also be consumed

The operation of the internal combustion engine of any car is associated with high temperatures. The internal combustion engine heats up during the combustion of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders and as a result of friction of its elements. The cooling system helps to avoid overheating of the power unit.

Liquid pump

It is installed in the front of the car. This is a fairly convenient location, unlike later models. The most important thing is that the drive is carried out from the generator belt, which is not covered with covers. But this is where the advantages end, and the disadvantages begin. So, a liquid pump has inlets and outlets to which pipes are connected. And each joint is a theoretical place for fluid flow. The tightness of the connection can be broken at any time.

The bearing installed in the pump housing does not inspire confidence either. It often breaks, causing an unpleasant whistle. As with replacing the thermostat, it is necessary to completely drain the fluid from the system when removing the pump. The cooling system of the VAZ-2107 engine, as mentioned, has two circuits. And the liquid pump allows for the movement of antifreeze through the pipes. At the same time, cooling occurs much more efficiently, because the liquid does not stand still.

Which pump to choose

Unlike the standard VAZ and GAZ pump, which has a mechanical belt or chain drive, an electric pump is used as an additional driving force. Most often, motorists use an electric pump, which is standard equipment on the Gazelle car.

The unit has high performance, but the quality of its manufacture leaves much to be desired. Therefore, before installing such a pump, it is recommended to disassemble it, coat all seals with automotive sealant, reassemble it and let it dry for 24 hours.

An alternative to GAZ products is to install an additional pump manufactured by Bosh. These units have high build quality and a different operating principle. The blade rotates under the action of a magnetic coupling, and not an electric motor, as in the first case. » alt=»»> By using such a scheme, the manufacturer was able to abandon sealing connections and almost completely eliminate the possibility of leakage. The disadvantages of the imported unit include its high cost and relatively low productivity (700 liters versus 1200 liters per hour for the GAZ unit).

Electric fan

We are talking about the fan that is installed on the cooling radiator. It works quite rarely. It turns on only when the temperature at the radiator outlet is exceeded. A sensor is installed in this place, or, to be more precise, a thermal switch. It consists of a bimetal plate, which at a certain temperature is deformed, changing its geometry. In this case, the contacts connected to this plate mechanically are closed.

It is worth noting that the cooling system of the VAZ-2107, malfunctions of which can be eliminated fairly quickly, is still not very perfect. The sensor, according to the manufacturer, is capable of switching large currents and has an impressive service life. But it is better to have a degree of protection - switching on should be done using an electromagnetic relay, which is controlled by a sensor. This way you can increase the resource many times. In addition, it is necessary to have a button in the cabin connected parallel to the sensor. With its help, you can force the fan to turn on.

VAZ 2107 fan sensor malfunctions and performance check

It is easy to find out whether the VAZ 2107 fan switch sensor is working properly. The fan motor is quite noisy; you can hear it turning on even from inside the cabin. If the temperature gauge shows more than 90 degrees, but the fan does not turn on, you should check the sensor.

First you need to localize the source of the problem. If the antifreeze is hotter than 90 degrees, but the bottom of the radiator remains cold, the problem is the thermostat, not the fan. It is not possible to replace the thermostat on the road. To get out of the situation, you can increase the cooling by fully opening the heater damper and turning on its fan. Of course, such a solution will be extremely uncomfortable in the warm season, but, if you’re lucky, it will make it possible to get to the repair site without stopping. If this is not enough, you will have to make stops along the way to allow the engine to cool.

Another reason for overheating is low coolant level. In this case, it is necessary to quickly find and eliminate the leak and add antifreeze to the system. If it is not there, you can add water to the system. But then, as soon as possible, it is necessary to drain the liquid from the cooling system and add antifreeze.

If the radiator is hot and the fan does not start, you need to try to start the fan by short-circuiting the two wires going to the sensor contacts. If the cause of the breakdown is the latter, the fan should start working.

If the sensor is not installed on the car, you can check it using a thermometer and ohmmeter. You need to place the part of the sensor that is inserted into the radiator into water and heat it to about 90 degrees. The sensor should turn on when the water heats up to no more than 92 degrees. The switching on (closure of the sensor contacts) is indicated by the absence of resistance between the sensor terminals.

Design and principle of operation of the cooling system

The cooling system on the VAZ 2107 car is liquid injector, closed type, with forced circulation. The system consists of the following parts:

• pump;
• radiator;
• expansion tank;
• non-separable thermostat;
• four-blade electric fan;
• cylinder block cooling jacket;
• pipelines and hoses;
• drain plugs.

The coolant in the cooling jackets picks up heat from the heating engine parts, then, under the influence of pressure created by the pump, begins to circulate through the system, thereby carrying out heat exchange.

If the liquid does not have time to cool down to the required level, the fan automatically turns on and will run until the liquid cools down.

How to properly flush the radiator of a VAZ-2107 stove

During operation, the stove radiator becomes dirty, as a result of which its heat transfer deteriorates. You can restore normal operation of the stove by flushing the heat exchanger. You can wash a dismantled radiator with maximum quality, but in some cases you can achieve the desired result without removing the heat exchanger. A simplified flushing scheme involves disconnecting the inlet and outlet pipes in the engine compartment and supplying tap water to one of them. From the second pipe the water drains out. After rinsing with water, the radiator can be filled with a cleaning solution using a watering can and the scale allowed to dissolve for 2–3 hours, after which the solution can be drained. If the radiator is not very “running”, then such a measure may well improve its performance. It should be remembered that an aluminum radiator cannot be washed with alkaline solutions, and a copper radiator cannot be washed with acidic solutions. For washing, you can use special products such as “Mole”, “Comet”, “Tiret”, “Kalgon”, etc.

How to remove a radiator

In most cases, you still have to remove the heater radiator for cleaning. To dismantle the heat exchanger you will need:

• keys for 7, 10 and 17;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• spare gaskets;
• rags.

After completion of work, a certain amount of coolant will be required to fill the system.

To remove the heater radiator of a VAZ-2107 car, you must:

1. Free the system from coolant by unscrewing the drain hole on the cylinder block with a 17 key, as well as the caps of the expansion tank and the cooling radiator.
2. Open the hood and use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the clamps that secure the hoses of the inlet and outlet pipes.
3. Remove the hoses from the fittings.
4. Using a 7 key, unscrew the two bolts securing the pipes.
5. Remove the seal.
6. Move into the interior and unscrew the screws holding the radio shelf.
7. Remove the shelf and use a 7 key to unscrew the fastening of the radiator valve drive cable.
8. Disengage the steel brackets that secure the two halves of the heater body together.
9. Remove the lower half of the stove body.
10. Remove the heat exchanger along with the tap.
11. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the valve to the radiator.
12. If necessary, replace the gasket.
13. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the inlet pipe from the tap and also replace the gasket if the old one has become unusable.

How to install a radiator

You can wash the dismantled radiator:

• water directed into the product using a Karcher installation under a pressure of 5.5 atmospheres;
• caustic soda solution poured into the radiator for 1 hour;
• by complete disassembly method. In this case, you should unsolder the radiator tanks with a torch or soldering iron, clean the internal cavity of the product using mechanical and chemical means, dry and solder the structure.

Before installing a new or repaired stove radiator in place, you should check the functionality of the faucet. If there are any problems with the old faucet, it is better to immediately replace it with a new one. In addition, for high-quality assembly you will need a sealant.

If there are any problems with the old faucet, it is better to immediately replace it with a new one

To install the heat exchanger you need:

• screw the inlet pipe to the tap, placing a new gasket lubricated with sealant between them;
• screw the tap to the radiator body, also placing a gasket treated with sealant between them;
• place the radiator in place;
• put the hoses on the pipes and clamp them with clamps;
• fill the system with coolant;
• tighten the caps of the cooling radiator and expansion tank and start the engine;
• with the engine turned on, check the connections for leaks;
• if everything is in order, attach the crane cable;
• Reinstall the lower part of the heater housing, securing it with brackets;
• Replace the radio shelf, securing it with self-tapping screws.

The radiator used in the VAZ-2107 heater is integrated into the cooling system of the power unit and, despite its simple design, plays a primary role in creating a favorable microclimate inside the car. Like any other vehicle component, the radiator may require revision or replacement after some time of operation. The VAZ-2107 can be equipped with heater radiators made of various materials (most often copper, brass or aluminum) and with different tube configurations (round or square). Any driver can replace the heat exchanger independently, following a certain sequence of steps. To flush the radiator, you should use safe products that will not damage the body of the product.

General characteristics of the VAZ 2107 cooling system

The VAZ 2107 engine of all models has a sealed liquid cooling system with forced circulation of coolant (coolant).

Purpose of the cooling system

The cooling system is designed to maintain the optimal temperature of the power unit during its operation and timely, controlled removal of excess heat from heating components. Individual elements of the system are used to heat the interior during the cold season.

Cooling system parameters

The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 has a number of parameters that affect the operation and performance of the power unit, the main of which are:

• amount of coolant - regardless of the fuel supply method (carburetor or injection) and engine size, all VAZ 2107 use the same cooling system. According to the manufacturer's requirements, its operation (including interior heating) requires 9.85 liters of refrigerant. Therefore, when replacing antifreeze, you should immediately purchase a ten-liter container;
• engine operating temperature - The operating temperature of the engine depends on its type and volume, the type of fuel used, the number of crankshaft revolutions, etc. For the VAZ 2107 it is usually 80–950C. The engine heats up to operating condition, depending on the ambient temperature, within 4–7 minutes. If there is a deviation from these values, it is recommended to immediately diagnose the cooling system;
• coolant operating pressure - Since the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is sealed, and antifreeze expands when heated, a pressure exceeding atmospheric pressure is created inside the system. This is necessary to increase the boiling point of the coolant. So, if under normal conditions water boils at 1000C, then when the pressure increases to 2 atm, the boiling point rises to 1200C. In the VAZ 2107 engine, the operating pressure is 1.2–1.5 atm. Thus, if the boiling point of modern coolants at atmospheric pressure is 120–1300C, then under operating conditions it will increase to 140–1450C.

Purpose of the thermostat on the VAZ 2106

The thermostat must control the degree of heating of the coolant and react in a timely manner when the antifreeze temperature becomes too high or, conversely, too low.

The thermostat maintains the temperature of the coolant in the engine cooling system in the desired range

The device can direct coolant through either a small or large cooling circle, thereby preventing the engine from overheating, or, conversely, helping it quickly warm up after a long period of inactivity. All this makes the thermostat the most important element of the VAZ 2106 cooling system.

Thermostat location

The thermostat in the VAZ 2106 is located to the right of the engine, where the pipes for discharging coolant from the main radiator are located. To see the thermostat, simply open the hood of the car. The convenient location of this part is a big plus when it becomes necessary to replace it.

To gain access to the VAZ 2106 thermostat, simply open the hood

Principle of operation

As mentioned above, the main task of the thermostat is to maintain the engine temperature within specified limits. When the engine needs to warm up, the thermostat blocks the main radiator until the engine reaches the optimal temperature. This simple measure can significantly extend the life of the engine and reduce wear on its components. The thermostat has a master valve. When the coolant reaches a temperature of 70 °C, the valve opens (it should be noted here that the opening temperature of the main valve can be higher - up to 90 °C, and this depends both on the design of the thermostat and on the thermal filler that is in it used).

Essentially, a thermostat is a regular valve that responds to changes in antifreeze temperature

The second important element of the thermostat is a special compression cylinder made of brass, inside of which there is a small piece of technical wax. When the antifreeze in the system reaches 80 °C, the wax in the cylinder melts. As it expands, it presses on the long rod connected to the main thermostat valve. The rod extends from the cylinder and opens the valve. And when the antifreeze cools, the wax in the cylinder begins to harden, and its expansion coefficient decreases. As a result, the pressure on the rod weakens and the thermostatic valve closes.

By opening the valve here we mean moving its leaf by only 0.1 mm. This is the initial opening value, which consistently increases by 0.1 mm as the antifreeze temperature rises by two to three degrees. When the coolant temperature rises by 20 °C, the thermostat valve opens fully. The full opening temperature can vary from 90 to 102 °C depending on the manufacturer and design of the thermostat.

Malfunctions

Under normal temperature conditions, the indicator needle does not reach the red field, which means the temperature is within 80-100 degrees. But if the needle still crosses the red zone, it means that the engine’s thermal conditions are increased, and the following problems may be present in the cooling system of the VAZ 21074:

• loosening of the pump drive belt;
• Leaking or insufficient coolant;
• thermostat malfunction;
• electric fan malfunction;
• pump malfunction;
• difficult road conditions.

Diagnostics

Before trying to determine why cooling system fans may turn on when the engine is cold in cars, it is recommended that you understand the operation of this unit.

The fan is turned on due to the operation of a special sensor, which activates the rotation of the blades. This controller is located at the bottom of the cooling radiator.

There are some modern cars where the engine control unit is responsible for starting, although this is rather a rarity and the exception and the rule.

When the cooling liquid (coolant) reaches the required temperature, which is usually in the range of 100-105 degrees Celsius, the sensor closes the electrical circuit, and this allows the fan to turn on. It starts blowing on the radiator. This achieves a better cooling effect, since the air and liquid systems are combined.

At the same time, there are situations when the engine is still absolutely cold, it does not require any additional cooling, but the fan still turns on. This is not a normal condition. It is necessary to look for the reason for this behavior of the cooling system and eliminate any malfunctions that have arisen.

If you continue to ignore the constantly running fan, the initially simple discomfort will give way to more serious problems.

But here it is important to note that the constant operation of the blades is not as dangerous as a complete failure of the device. Although this fact is absolutely not a reason to do nothing

It all starts with diagnosis. The simplest and most convenient in this regard are injection engines. To detect a malfunction, it is enough to conduct computer diagnostics. This is done both in a car service center and in the garage with your own hands.

Connecting to an electronic control unit makes it possible to obtain error codes that are not difficult to decipher and understand the true reasons for this behavior of the cooling system fan.

There are situations when the ECU detects a malfunction in the cooling system and causes the fan to spin constantly, even when the engine is cold. This is a kind of protective function aimed at preventing possible overheating of the internal combustion engine. Therefore, when errors are detected and after troubleshooting, a reset is required. To erase errors, you should look at the owner's manual for your car. On some cars, it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery, and the errors will be erased. On other cars, errors are erased using connected diagnostic equipment.

If the option of computer diagnostics does not suit you or it cannot be used for one reason or another, you will have to use the method of elimination to check all potential sources of trouble.

Expansion tank

Installed on the body in the engine compartment. It is necessary to maintain the fluid level in the engine cooling system. When antifreeze heats up, it expands and increases in volume. When cooling, the reverse process occurs. With all this, it is necessary that the liquid always, regardless of temperature, be kept at the same level. This is what the tank is for.

Its functions are the same as those used in heating structures of houses for the operation of boilers. Without it, the cooling system of the VAZ-2107 will not be able to work. The carburetor also needs to be heated, so the height of the reservoir is the same as that of the fuel injection device. Please note that there are marks on the expansion tank indicating the minimum and maximum liquid levels. It is necessary to adhere to the golden mean.

Tank design

RB is a plastic sealed container with a lid. To maintain close to atmospheric pressure in the tank, a rubber valve is installed in the lid. At the bottom of the RB there is a fitting to which a hose is connected from the neck of the main radiator.

To maintain pressure, a rubber valve is installed in the tank lid

On one of the walls of the tank there is a special scale for assessing the level of coolant in the system.

Operating principle of the tank

When the coolant heats up and expands, excess pressure is created in the radiator. When it rises by 0.5 atm, the neck valve opens and excess antifreeze begins to flow into the tank. There the pressure is stabilized using a rubber valve in the lid.

Tank malfunctions

All RB malfunctions are associated with mechanical damage and subsequent depressurization or failure of the lid valve. In the first case, the entire tank is replaced, and in the second, you can get by by replacing the lid.

System leakage

An even more popular problem among motorists is lack of pressure. This may happen due to:

1. stuck air valve;
2. presence of leaks in the cooling system.

Accordingly, identifying the problem will not be difficult. The first thing you can do is look at the antifreeze level on a cold engine. If it does not change from trip to trip, then there are no leaks in the system. The second step is to replace the air valve with a new one. After this, the pressure should normalize and the antifreeze will not overheat. Very often, increased pressure in the engine cooling system causes it to then drop. This is partly due to the wedging valve. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. As a result, pressure builds up, which can cause a leak to form in a weak spot, and then the seal disappears.

Cooling system thermostat

You could even say that this is the main element, since it allows you to switch fluid flows between small and large circles. To put it roughly, the large circle differs from the small one only in that a radiator is involved in the work. When the engine is started, the liquid circulates in a small circle. This way it will warm up faster and reach operating temperature (82-87 degrees). A stove is also included in this circuit so that the car interior can be warmed up faster in winter.

It is worth considering that the VAZ-2107 cooling system is also connected to the throttle valve. The injector must warm up to prevent condensation from forming. It is this distribution along the channels that is produced by the thermostat, which is made of a bimetallic plate. It has several disadvantages - if it breaks down, circulation occurs in a small circle (the engine boils), it is impossible to repair it, and replacement requires draining the antifreeze from the system.

Thermostat design

The thermostat consists of:

• housings;
• thermoelement;
• main valve;
• bypass valve.
• The thermostat is used to maintain optimal temperature conditions for engine operation.

The thermoelement is a sealed metal cylinder filled with special paraffin. Inside this cylinder there is a rod that actuates the main thermostat valve. The body of the device has three fittings to which the underwater hose from the pump, the bypass and outlet pipes are connected.

Thermostat operating principle

When the coolant temperature is below 800C, the main thermostat valve is closed and the bypass valve is open. In this case, the coolant moves in a small circle, bypassing the main radiator. Antifreeze flows from the engine cooling jacket through the thermostat to the pump, and then returns to the engine. This is necessary so that the engine warms up faster.

When the coolant temperature is below 80 degrees, it bypasses the main radiator

When the coolant heats up to 80–820C, the main thermostat valve begins to open. When the antifreeze heats up to 940C, this valve opens completely, and the bypass valve, on the contrary, closes. In this case, the coolant moves from the engine to the cooling radiator, then to the pump and back to the cooling jacket.

Thermostat malfunctions

If the thermostat fails, the engine may either overheat or be slower to reach operating temperature. This is the result of stuck valves. It is easy to check the functionality of the thermostat. To do this, you need to start a cold engine, let it run for two or three minutes and touch the pipe going from the thermostat to the radiator with your hand. It should be cold. If the pipe is warm, then the main valve is constantly in the open position, which, in turn, will lead to slow warming up of the engine. Conversely, when the main valve blocks the flow of coolant to the radiator, the lower hose will be hot and the upper hose will be cold. As a result, the engine will overheat and the antifreeze will boil.

Checking the tightness of the system

When inspecting pipelines, it is necessary to check whether the hoses fit tightly on the radiator and engine components. You should also inspect the thin hoses for the interior heating and throttle body to make sure they are not cracked.

Replace hard ones immediately. It is necessary to make sure that the ends of the hoses are deeply stretched onto the pipes, otherwise they may become disconnected. Also check that the clamp bolts are tightened well.

Rusty clamps can loosen the fastening while driving; this is dangerous at full operating pressure in the hydraulic system. If there is corrosion, they need to be replaced. Cracks along the hose are the result of aging. Damage to the inner surface impedes fluid flow.

Preliminary visual inspection

It is necessary to check the condition of the radiator and expansion tank. Any stains, smudges, or traces of liquid indicate a leak in the system. Mechanical damage, dents, cracks, loosening of connections are not allowed. Check the tension of the water pump and fan belts, as well as the tightness of the electrical connections of the fan motor.

Air bubbles in the expansion tank indicate airing of the system. Oil stains in antifreeze indicate damage to the water pump gasket or cylinder head.

Simple thermostat test

You should start the engine and check the section of the upper pipes and hoses connecting the engine to the upper part of the radiator, directly behind the thermostat. If the hose does not heat up when the engine is running for three minutes, this means that the thermostat is locked in the closed position. If it starts to heat up immediately, the thermostat is locked open. If the hose warms up gradually after about 3 minutes, the thermostat is working correctly.

The leak test is carried out using a special device that creates pressure, such as a hand pump. The pressure on the pressure gauge should be 0.1 MPa (about 1 atmosphere) for at least 2 minutes. When checking for leaks, do not apply excessive fluid pressure, as this may damage the radiator.

The radiator tightness can be checked after its dismantling. To do this, you need to plug the holes, immerse the radiator in water and apply compressed air to it. The presence of bubbles will allow you to find the location of the leak. Repairing a radiator is, as a rule, a low-profit endeavor and mainly concerns connections to the pipe.

In addition to externally visible leaks, internal fluid leakage may occur into the combustion chamber, into the lubrication system, etc. Symptoms of fluid penetration into the combustion chamber:

• a large amount of steam in the exhaust gases;
• gurgling in the expansion tank, associated with the breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system.

The design of the VAZ 2107 cooling system

The main components of the VAZ 2107 cooling system include:

• water pump (pump);
• main radiator;
• main radiator fan;
• interior heater (stove) radiator;
• stove tap;
• thermostat (thermostat);
• expansion tank;
• coolant temperature sensor;
• coolant temperature sensor indicator;
• control temperature sensor (only in injection engines);
• fan switch sensor (only in carburetor engines);
• connecting pipes.

This should also include the engine cooling jacket - a system of special channels in the cylinder block and cylinder head through which coolant circulates.

The VAZ 2107 cooling system is designed quite simply and consists of a number of mechanical and electrical components

Video: design and operation of the engine cooling system

Water pump (pump)

The pump is designed to ensure continuous forced circulation of coolant through the engine cooling jacket during operation. It is a conventional centrifugal pump that pumps antifreeze into the cooling system using an impeller. The pump is located on the front of the cylinder block and is driven by the crankshaft pulley through a V-belt.

Pump design

The pump consists of:

• housings;
• covers;
• shaft with bearing, impeller and drive pulley;
• oil seal.

• 
  The pump is designed for forced circulation of coolant in the cooling system

Pump operating principle

The operating principle of a water pump is quite simple. When the crankshaft rotates, the belt drives the pump pulley, transmitting torque to the impeller. The latter, rotating, creates a certain coolant pressure inside the housing, forcing it to circulate inside the system. The bearing is designed to rotate the shaft evenly and reduce friction, and the oil seal ensures the tightness of the device.

Pump malfunctions

The pump life for the VAZ 2107 regulated by the manufacturer is 50–60 thousand km. However, this resource may decrease in the following situations:

• use of low-quality coolant or water;
• entry of dirt, impurities, and foreign objects into the cooling system;
• excessive tension on the drive belt.

The result of the influence of these factors are:

• impeller wear;
• wear or damage to the oil seal;
• misalignment of the pump shaft with subsequent wear of the bearing and possible jamming of the device.

If such faults are detected, the pump should be replaced.

Radiator fan device

A car fan for an internal combustion engine cooling system has at least four blades, which are mounted on a single common pulley. The blades are located at a certain angle relative to the plane of rotation. This is done for the most efficient intake and subsequent supply of air. There are no strictly established patterns in the design of the fan, although the most common design has become one that includes an impeller with 8 blades.

Drive types

The radiator fan may differ in drive design. Existing types are divided into:

• mechanical;
• hydromechanical;
• electric;

Mechanical drive

Such a drive is a design that is essentially a permanent drive from the crankshaft of the power plant. This drive is the simplest and is implemented using a belt drive. The main disadvantage of a mechanical drive is the power taken from the unit, which is spent to ensure constant rotation of the fan. Today, mechanical drives are practically not used in cooling systems on civilian cars.

Hydromechanical drive

This type of drive is a solution that is implemented by installing a viscous coupling (viscous coupling) or a hydraulic coupling. These couplings are constantly driven by the engine crankshaft. In order to keep the fan blades intact when the internal combustion engine is operating at maximum speed and high crankshaft rotation speed, the fan impeller is connected to the pulley via a hydraulic or viscous coupling. There is also a definition of a thermal coupling, which depends on the design features.

The clutch may become partially or completely blocked due to the increasing temperature of the fluid with which it is filled. Silicone is such a filling fluid. The increase in temperature occurs as a result of increased crankshaft speed and increased load on the engine. The clutch is blocked and the cooling fan begins to rotate. A hydraulic coupling differs in design from a viscous coupling and is blocked depending on the amount of oil in the coupling.

It turns out that the viscous coupling is often filled with silicone gel, which has the ability to change its properties under the influence of temperature. Silicone oil is poured into the coupling in an amount of about 30 or 50 ml. Clutch blocking affects the fan rotation speed regardless of the engine crankshaft speed. If the power unit reaches high speed mode, then the clutch slows down the rotation of the impeller, thereby protecting the fan from destruction at high rotation speeds. The main task of all types of couplings, which differ in operating principles and design features, is to maintain the fan rotation speed within strictly limited limits. The viscous coupling provides the speed range that the impeller needs for the most efficient cooling.

As already mentioned, mechanically driven fans have become rare, but have not completely disappeared. Such a device can still be found on some car models that have a longitudinally located power unit. Another segment of cars in which the installation of a fan with a similar type of drive is widespread and justified is powerful SUVs. Such machines are able to overcome water obstacles and are prepared for operation in conditions of extremely high humidity. The fact is that any electronics fails after contact with water, and viscous couplings are completely sealed devices and are not afraid of moisture.

Electric drive

The active development and implementation of electronic control and monitoring devices for various systems during engine operation has led to the emergence of an electrically driven radiator fan. This drive has a separate electric motor and its own control system. The controller allows you to set the intensity of the impeller operation and flexibly change the speed and duration of fan rotation based on the readings of the temperature sensor. The sensor measures the temperature of the coolant in the internal combustion engine. This solution not only increased efficiency, but also made it possible to achieve improved uniformity of engine cooling compared to systems that are based on the use of a viscous coupling.

Cooling radiator and heaters

Two more elements that make up the cooling system of the VAZ-2107. Injector or carburetor - it doesn’t matter what is in the fuel supply system. The difference between these two radiators is only in size and shape. There is also one small detail - a pipe coming from the expansion tank is connected to the main radiator. Consequently, it has two pipes at the inlet. Both radiators have fans. One helps heat the interior, and the second allows for additional airflow for effective cooling.

From this we can conclude that if the fan on the main radiator fails, you need to open the heater tap and turn on the interior airflow. In the summer, of course, it is not very convenient; the effectiveness of this action is much lower, but it allows you to avoid boiling of the liquid in the system. Therefore, the likelihood of engine damage is extremely low.

Stove radiator design

The stove radiator has the same design as the main heat exchanger. It consists of two tanks and connecting tubes through which the coolant moves. To speed up heat transfer, the tubes have thin lamellas.

The heater radiator serves to heat the air entering the cabin

To stop the supply of warm air to the cabin in the summer, the heater radiator is equipped with a special tap that shuts off the circulation of coolant in the heating system. The faucet is operated by a cable and a lever located on the front panel.

The valve is designed to stop the supply of coolant to the heater radiator

The principle of operation of the stove radiator

When the heater tap is open, hot coolant enters the radiator and heats the tubes with lamellas. The air flows passing through the heater radiator also heat up and enter the cabin through the air duct system. When the tap is closed, no coolant flows into the radiator.

Radiator and heater valve malfunctions

The most common failures of the radiator and heater tap are:

• leakage caused by mechanical damage or corrosion;
• clogged radiator tubes;
• souring of the faucet locking mechanism.

The stove radiator can be repaired using the same methods as the main heat exchanger. If the tap malfunctions, it is replaced with a new one.

Advantages of an aluminum radiator

To find out which heater radiator is better to install on the seven, let’s make a comparative comparison. To do this, you need to find out all the advantages and disadvantages of the two types of stove heat exchangers. First, let's figure out what the pros and cons of aluminum units that are installed on classics from the factory.

The advantages of aluminum devices include the following factors:

1. Cost is one of the main advantages of such devices, since it is precisely because of the low price that many choose models made of aluminum alloy. The price difference between copper (brass) and aluminum devices can be up to two times.
2. Large selection - these models are more popular, despite some of their disadvantages. The reason for this popularity is their price, but you often have to make sure that it is better to buy a copper unit for the stove.

Among the advantages, heat transfer should also be noted, however, practice shows that heat transfer rates are significantly inferior to brass devices. For the seven, manufacturers do not produce three-row heat exchangers made of aluminum, which actually causes low heat transfer. Only two-row ones are produced.

Before buying copper heater radiators for the seven, you need to find out the disadvantages of aluminum units. These include:

1. Thermal conductivity - the heat conductivity indicators of the models under consideration are low, so if the owner does not want to have problems with heating the interior, then heat exchangers made of aluminum alloy are not worth buying.
2. Unsuitable for repair - some craftsmen, if the device is damaged, try to solder it, but soldering aluminum can cost almost the same as a new radiator. Considering the difficulty of replacing it, then if the aluminum heat exchanger of the stove on the seven leaks, it is better to immediately replace it with a new one.
3. Corrosive effects - aluminum alloy is also not resistant to rust formation, so it is possible that the device will not last long if water gets into the system.

The presence of so many shortcomings leads to the fact that owners of sevens are increasingly inclined to switch to brass units. However, there is no need to rush, and first let’s find out all the advantages and disadvantages of our main competitors.

Advantages of copper stove radiators

Now let’s find out why a copper stove radiator is better than an aluminum one. The advantages of these units include:

1. Thermal conductivity - even if we take into account the fact that copper ones are only called such, since they contain much more brass than copper, they have high thermal conductivity. It is this indicator that is fundamental when choosing a heat exchanger from which you can get more heat to heat the interior.
2. Easy to repair - even the slightest mechanical damage can be repaired at home. Moreover, after soldering work, the unit can last a long period of time (which also depends on the quality of the soldering).
3. The entire radiator is made entirely of plastic without the use of plastic. Not only are the plates made of copper, or rather a brass alloy, but the body itself is also made of a similar material. This is a big advantage, because due to this design, operational parameters are increased.
4. Three-row versions of radiators are produced. This brings more heat into the cabin.

With so many advantages, one wonders if these devices have any disadvantages.

What is better to put on a VAZ 2107

Having made a comparative analysis, we can summarize which heater radiator to choose for the interior of a VAZ 2107 car. Practical experience and reviews from car owners indicate that aluminum devices cope with their task perfectly. However, this is appropriate when operating a car in urban conditions. As soon as you leave the city at temperatures below -10 degrees, you immediately realize that the stove is not up to the task. The problem is in the double-row heat exchanger, which does not have time to heat the interior even when the heater fan is switched to maximum speed.

If you install a three-row copper radiator, then it copes with its task much better, as evidenced not only by the reviews of the owners, but also by the advantages of these units. Therefore, if you often have to travel outside the city in winter, then it is better to install a copper three-row radiator instead of an aluminum two-row one, with which you can forget about the discomfort and chilliness in the cabin of the 7 when the heater is running.

Main radiator

The radiator is designed to cool the coolant entering it due to heat exchange with the environment. This is achieved thanks to the features of its design. The radiator is installed in the front part of the engine compartment on two rubber cushions and is attached to the body with two studs and nuts.

Radiator design

The radiator consists of two vertically located tanks and tubes connecting them. On the tubes there are thin plates (lamellas) that accelerate the heat transfer process. One of the tanks is equipped with a filler neck that is closed with a sealed cap. The neck has a valve and is connected to the expansion tank with a thin rubber hose. In carburetor VAZ 2107 engines, the radiator is provided with a mounting socket for the sensor for turning on the cooling system fan. Models with injection engines do not have such a socket.

The radiator consists of two vertically located tanks and tubes connecting them

The principle of operation of the radiator

Cooling can be carried out either naturally or forcefully. In the first case, the coolant temperature is reduced by blowing the radiator with a counter flow of air while driving. In the second case, the air flow is created by a fan attached directly to the radiator.

Radiator malfunctions

Radiator failure is most often associated with loss of tightness as a result of mechanical damage or corrosion of the tubes. In addition, the tubes may become clogged with dirt, deposits and impurities in the antifreeze, and coolant circulation will be disrupted.

If a leak is detected, you can try to solder the damaged area with a powerful soldering iron using special flux and solder. Clogged tubes can be eliminated by flushing with chemically active substances. Solutions of orthophosphoric or citric acid, as well as some household cleaning products for sewerage, are used as such substances.

Method two - electric

If you have a new car, an injector and an electric fan are installed, is it worth spoiling it with a forced impeller? It would be somewhat more reasonable to leave the electric fan, but make a backup way to turn it on using a button. Purchase several items and materials from the store:

1. New sensor (if the old one has become unusable).
2. Electromagnetic relay with normally open contacts.
3. Red wire with a cross section of 0.75 square meters. mm.
4. A button for installation in the dashboard of a VAZ 2107 (preferably backlit).
5. Heat shrink insulation.
6. Female connectors and relay socket.

The connection diagram is shown in the photo. First of all, turn off the fan and change the sensor for turning it on. Then you assemble the circuit.

Please note that newer vehicles use sensors that can handle very high currents. But despite this, they still burn

Sudden loads still quickly damage it. What to do? There is only one way out - to reduce the current at the sensor terminals. To do this, introduce an electromagnetic relay into the circuit. Now the chance of sensor failure is reduced. But the chance of relay failure becomes higher. True, it will be easier to change it.

Install a button to force the fan on in the dashboard and stretch two wires from it - one can be connected directly to ground, and the second to the sensor output. It turns out that your button and sensor contacts are connected in parallel. Therefore, if the sensor fails, you can turn on the electromagnetic relay with a button.

Cooling System Maintenance

In order for the VAZ-2107 cooling system to function normally, it requires timely maintenance, replacement of elements, and flushing. When installing new pipes or other parts, the amount of deposits in the system is reduced, but do not forget that there is a lot of debris in the block jacket and radiators. These are small dust particles that enter the liquid and settle on the walls. It is especially dangerous to use water as a cooling liquid. It leaves a large amount of deposits that are difficult to get rid of.

We independently change the thermostat on a VAZ 2106

Before starting work, you should select tools and consumables. To replace the thermostat we will need:

• new thermostat;
• coolant (5 liters);
• basin for draining old antifreeze;
• flat screwdriver.

It should be noted here that the thermostat cannot be repaired. The reason is simple: inside it has a thermoelement with liquid or solid filler. It is the one that fails most often. But such elements are not sold separately, so the car owner has only one option - replacing the entire thermostat.

Sequence of work

Before performing any manipulations with the thermostat, you need to drain the coolant. Without this operation, further work is impossible. It is convenient to drain antifreeze by placing the car on an inspection hole and unscrewing the cap of the main radiator.

1. After draining the antifreeze, the car hood opens. The thermostat is located to the right of the engine. Three hoses come to it.
2. The hoses are attached to the thermostat pipes using steel clamps, which are loosened using a flat-head screwdriver.
3. After loosening the clamps, the hoses are removed from the pipes manually, the old thermostat is removed and replaced with a new one. The hoses are returned to their place, the clamps are tightened, and new coolant is poured into the radiator. The thermostat replacement procedure can be considered complete.

Coolant suitability

The refrigerant is checked based on monitoring its freezing point. This temperature increases over time as the glycol content in the liquid decreases, which evaporates faster than water. Control can be carried out by measuring the density of the liquid with a hydrometer.

Measuring the density of antifreeze can also be done using an optical disc tester - a refractometer. This instrument uses the relationship between the concentration of glycol in a liquid and the refractive index of light. A drop of the material under study is applied to the prism of the device, and it is observed where the boundary between the white and blue fields lies. Two scales are used for two grades of glycols.

Periodic replacement of refrigerant

The period for replacing the fluid is indicated by the manufacturer in the operating instructions. In older engines, the replacement interval is usually 2 years or 60 thousand km of the vehicle. In new engines, this period is increased to 5 years or up to 120 thousand kilometers of total mileage.

To replace the cooler, it is necessary to drain the used one. To drain, you need to perform the following operations:

• wait until the engine cools down, otherwise there is a risk of burns;
• open the radiator cap;
• install a wide vessel under the radiator;
• Unscrew the drain plugs in the radiator and engine block.

When replacing coolant, and especially when changing its type, it is necessary to flush the hydraulic system. Flushing involves supplying water with a hose to the radiator filler neck and passing it through the entire hydraulic system. During the procedure, you can start the engine so that the running pump participates in the flushing process.

After emptying and flushing, the drain plug must be tightened. Slowly fill the radiator, block jacket and pump to the maximum level. When the radiator cap is open, you must start the engine to remove air from the pipeline. Only when you are sure that the air has been removed can you tighten the plug tightly.

After filling with antifreeze, you must leave the engine running for another 10 minutes to check the tightness, as well as the time it takes to reach the desired temperature (signaled by turning on the radiator fan).

About antifreeze and antifreeze

It should be said right away that dividing coolants into antifreeze and antifreeze is accepted only in Russia. To understand why this happened, you need to answer the question: what is coolant anyway?

As a rule, the base for the coolant is ethylene glycol (in rare cases, propylene glycol), to which water and a set of special additives are added to prevent corrosion. Different manufacturers have different sets of additives. And all coolants on the market today are classified according to the technologies for producing these additives. There are three technologies:

• traditional. Additives are made from salts of inorganic acids (silicates, nitrites, amines or phosphates);
• carboxylate. Additives in carboxylate fluids are obtained only from organic carbonates;
• hybrid. In this technology, manufacturers add a small percentage of inorganic salts (most often phosphates or silicates) to organic carbonate additives.

Coolant made using traditional technology is called antifreeze, and liquid made using carboxylate technology is called antifreeze. Let's take a closer look at these liquids.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze has several advantages. Let's list them:

• protective film. The inorganic salts contained in antifreeze form a thin chemical film on the surface of the cooled parts, which reliably protects the parts from corrosion. Film thickness can reach 0.5 mm;
• color change. Even if the driver forgot to change the coolant, he will easily understand that it is time to do it simply by looking into the car's expansion tank. The fact is that antifreeze becomes darker as it ages. Very old antifreeze resembles tar in color;
• price; Antifreeze produced using traditional technology is about a third cheaper than antifreeze.

Of course, antifreeze also has disadvantages. Here they are:

• small resource. Antifreeze quickly becomes unusable. It needs to be changed every 40–60 thousand kilometers;
• effect on aluminum parts. The additives contained in antifreeze negatively affect the aluminum surfaces in the main radiator. In addition, antifreeze can form condensation. These factors significantly reduce the service life of aluminum radiators;
• influence on the water pump; The tendency to form condensation can also have a detrimental effect on the VAZ 2107 water pump, leading to premature wear of its impeller.

Antifreeze

Now let's look at the pros and cons of antifreeze. Let's start with the pros:

• long service life. On average, six liters of antifreeze are enough for 150 thousand kilometers;
• temperature selectivity. Thanks to carbonate additives, antifreeze can more actively protect the engine surface that is hottest than others;
• long engine operation. The above temperature selectivity leads to the fact that an engine cooled by antifreeze does not overheat much longer than an engine cooled by antifreeze;
• no condensation. Antifreeze, unlike antifreeze, never forms condensation, and therefore cannot damage the radiator and water pump of the car.

And antifreeze has only one disadvantage: high cost. A canister of high-quality antifreeze can cost two or even three times more than a canister of good antifreeze.

Taking into account all the above advantages, the vast majority of VAZ 2107 owners opt for antifreeze, since saving on coolant has never led to anything good. Almost any antifreeze, both domestic and Western, is suitable for the VAZ 2107. Most often, car owners prefer to use Lukoil G12 RED antifreeze.

Lukoil G12 RED is the most popular brand of antifreeze among VAZ 2107 owners

Other, less well-known brands of antifreeze are Felix, Aral Extra, Glysantin G48, Zerex G, etc.

Units and pipes

For high-quality cooling of vehicle mechanisms, the following units are included in the design of the hydraulic system:

1. Water pump or pump - for circulating coolant. Pumps are used that are driven by a belt together with a fan, a toothed belt, or an electric drive, regardless of the motor.
2. A fan that serves to improve heat exchange and increase the air flow passing through the radiator. Typically, fans of an axial design are used (the air flow flows along the axis of the fan).
3. Connecting pipes. For example, there are four pipes of the VAZ-2107 cooling system (injector), each with its own name and application:

• outflow, or lower;
• leading, also called upper;
• water pump coupling;
• bypass pipe or corner.

DESCRIPTION OF PIPES VAZ 21073

What a set of pipes for a VAZ 2107 with an injection engine looks like is shown in the figure below:

RICE. 1. A set of rubber pipes for the VAZ 21073 “injector”.

1. Outlet pipe
2. Inlet pipe,
3. Water pump coupling,
4. Bypass pipe.

1. Outlet pipe - popularly called the lower radiator pipe. Catalog number 2105-1303010.

The lower pipe is designed to connect the lower part of the cooling radiator to the thermostat. The pipe removes liquid from the radiator and supplies it to the thermostat. It is also used on VAZ “classic” cars with carburetor engines.

2. Inlet pipe – popularly called the upper radiator pipe. Catalog number 2123-1303025. It supplies coolant to the upper part of the radiator of the engine cooling system. It can also be used as an outlet pipe on a Niva - Chevrolet.

3.Water pump coupling - installed between the thermostat and the pump. Its catalog number is 2103 - 1803092. It supplies coolant from the thermostat to the water pump. It is also used in all VAZ “classic” engines. People also call him “shorty”.

4. Bypass pipe - connects the top of the thermostat and the exhaust pipe of the engine cooling jacket. Catalog number 2101 – 1303090. It is also called “corner”.

LOCATION OF PIPES VAZ 2107

Next, we will look at where and how all these pipes are located using the example of a fragment of a VAZ 2107 engine:

RICE. 2. VAZ 2107 engine cooling system.

1. Outlet pipe. 2. Supply pipe. 3. Water pump coupling 4. Overflow pipe. 5. Hose for supplying hot fluid to the heater radiator. 6. Expansion tank. 7. Engine cooling jacket. 8. Radiator cap. 9. Engine cooling radiator. 10. Fan casing (diffuser). 11. Radiator cooling fan. 12. Lower radiator support. 13. Water pump pulley. 14. Liquid outlet pipe from the heater radiator. 15. Water pump belt. 16. Water pump. 17. Exhaust pipe, engine cooling jackets. 18. Thermostat. The arrows here indicate the direction of movement of the coolant.

REASONS FOR MALFUNCTION OF RADIATOR PIPES IN VAZ 2107

The cooling system pipes are replaced when it is discovered that the coolant level is decreasing over time. If you find this in your car, then carefully inspect all the pipes. Sometimes it happens that one of the clamps is loose, and simply tightening it is enough. In some cases, the leak appears in the cooling radiator itself.

Then you will have to change it if you have an aluminum radiator, and if you have a copper radiator, then soldering the radiator will save the situation. But, since we have a different topic today, we will consider the case when liquid leaks due to a defect in the rubber pipes of the cooling system.

Most often, cracks appear on the rubber at the places where they are secured with clamps. This can be detected when leaks appear. It is necessary to slightly bend the pipe in this place and then this crack will immediately become visible. As an example, I will give you the photo below:

RICE. 3. A crack in the pipe where it is secured with a clamp.

Sometimes they install pipes that are not quite suitable in shape and bends. Then either stress or deformation occurs in the material. It is in places of deformation that cracks most often form (or even the rubber breaks off completely) and liquid begins to flow out through them.

It also happens that the pipes burst altogether, as shown in the figure below:

RICE. 4. Broken main radiator pipe.

REPLACING RADIATOR PIPES VAZ 21073

Before replacing the VAZ 21073 pipes, you need to remove the plugs from the radiator and expansion tank. Let's prepare a hose of a suitable diameter and some kind of container, maybe an old canister, but not less than 10 liters. According to the passport, the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 contains 9 liters of liquid.

Then we find the engine drain valve. It is located at the bottom of the block. We put one end of the hose on the fitting of this tap. We insert the other end into a container, which we prudently placed below the engine level. If we install it anywhere, it may turn out to be higher than the engine level. In this case, the cooling system fluid will not leak from the engine.

Possibility of tuning the VAZ 2107 cooling system

You can increase the efficiency of the VAZ 2107 cooling system in various ways. Someone installs a fan from a Kalina or Priora on the radiator, someone tries to better heat the interior by adding an electric pump from a Gazelle to the system, and someone installs silicone pipes, believing that with them the engine will warm up faster and cool down. However, the feasibility of such tuning is highly questionable. The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 itself is quite well thought out. If all its elements are in good working order, the engine will never overheat in the summer, and in winter the cabin will be warm even without turning on the heater fan. To do this, you only need to periodically pay attention to system maintenance, namely:

• fill only high-quality coolant into the engine;
• change the coolant every 50 thousand km with a complete drain and flushing of the system;
• monitor the coolant level and add it if necessary;
• When topping up, never mix antifreeze with antifreeze;
• When replacing faulty elements, use only high-quality certified parts.

Thus, the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is quite reliable and simple. However, it also needs periodic maintenance, which even an inexperienced car enthusiast can perform.

Fan motor

The electric motor is the main component of the device. The VAZ 2107 used two types of engines: ME-271 and ME-272. In terms of characteristics, they are almost identical, but as for the design, it is somewhat different. The ME-271 engine has a stamped housing, i.e., non-separable. It does not require periodic maintenance, but in case of malfunction, it can only be replaced.

Design and characteristics of the fan motor

Structurally, the motor consists of:

• housings;
• four permanent magnets glued around the circumference inside the case;
• armatures with winding and collector;
• brush holder with brushes;
• ball bearing;
• support sleeve;
• back cover.

The ME-272 electric motor also does not require maintenance, but unlike the previous model, if necessary, it can be partially disassembled and attempted to be restored. Disassembly is carried out by unscrewing the tightening bolts and removing the back cover.

In practice, repairing an electric fan is impractical. Firstly, you can only buy used spare parts for it, and secondly, a new device complete with impeller costs no more than 1,500 rubles.

Table: main technical characteristics of the ME-272 electric motor

Do-it-yourself repairs

Anyone who has basic knowledge of how the cooling system of the VAZ-2107 works, plumbing tools and is able to determine the cause of the problem can try to fix the breakdown on their own. The driver will be able to cope with replacing a damaged wire or pump belt without any problems. But if you are not sure of the diagnosis or there is a suspicion of a serious breakdown, it is certainly better to put the car in the hands of a specialist.

Improperly carried out repairs can create many serious problems. First of all, the driver should know that a malfunction of the car’s hydraulic system will very quickly lead to complete destruction of the engine.

Flushing the system

Regular cleaning is necessary. It is not difficult to do; you just need to use a special solution designed for this purpose. Pour it into the system, start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. After this, turn off the engine, drain the solution and repeat the procedure 2-3 times, only use clean water. Solutions intended for washing are very aggressive and can destroy rubber and metal with prolonged contact.

Please note that before draining the liquid from the system, you must wait some time for the temperature to drop to a safe value - about 50 degrees. If there is damage, carry out repairs. The cooling system of the VAZ-2107 has two drain holes - on the radiator and the cylinder block. And don’t forget to open the stove tap when flushing so that the solution gets into the radiator. The price of this procedure at service stations ranges from 500-700 rubles. It's not that much compared to renovations.

Sources

• https://motorsguide.ru/system/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-vaz-2107
• https://FB.ru/article/191155/sistema-ohlajdeniya-vaz–instruktsiya-remont
• https://autodont.ru/cooling-system/oxladitelnaya-sistema-na-vaz-21074
• https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/sistema-ohdazhdeniya/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-vaz-2107.html
• https://prometey96.ru/modeli/shema-ohlazhdeniya-vaz-2107.html

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System connections

These are pipes made of durable rubber. There is reinforcement inside, which improves their parameters. They serve to circulate fluid along the circuits. The pipes are fastened using worm-type metal clamps. But this type of fastener has a big drawback. If you tighten it loosely, the liquid will gradually come out of the pipes and a leak will appear. If you tighten too much, the clamp or pipe may break.

Therefore, when tightening, attention should be paid to physical force. And do not forget that the service life of the pipes with a mileage of 30,000 kilometers per year is not very long

There is a need for replacement once every 2-2.5 years. By this time, temperature changes and exposure to moisture and dust lead to the surface of the pipes becoming covered with microcracks and becoming brittle. Rubber, no matter how high quality it is, wears out and breaks down. In addition, a leak may occur and, as a result, insufficient engine cooling.