Installation and connection diagram of BSZ, electronic contactless ignition module VAZ 2107 injector and carburetor, instructions with photos and videos

The VAZ 2107 ignition module (injector) is a unit whose malfunctions are quite difficult to diagnose. Problems with the module's operation are noticed only after serious engine malfunctions occur. If the engine does not start, you should try adjusting the ignition. If the engine is running unevenly, a serious check of the functionality of the VAZ 2107 ignition module may be required.

Ignition is an electronic system for converting the low voltage of the vehicle's on-board network into high voltage and supplying the latter to the electrodes of the spark plugs.

Design and principle of operation of the ignition module

Some old-school motorists call the modules double-spark coils, which makes sense. After all, the coil is the predecessor of the ignition module in the technical evolutionary chain. The module is a paired design consisting of two pairs of windings (primary and secondary) and a switch that alternately switches low-voltage current from one coil to another. In some models of double-spark coils, the commutator is structurally located outside the block .

The operation of the module is controlled from an electronic unit that collects and analyzes information from various working components of the engine. The block, unlike the classic coil, has 4 sockets for connecting high voltage wires going to the spark plugs. The pulse occurs in pairs, first at terminals 1 and 4, then 2 and 3. That is, each of the built-in coils is responsible for the operation of two cylinders. A spark occurs simultaneously, as a pair.

This is what one of the ignition module models looks like. The connector for connecting incoming wires is visible at the top.

At the input, the ignition module has a connector with four terminals. Usually most models have markings opposite them. Pulses from the Hall sensor alternately arrive at contacts A and B, serving as a signal to switch the commutator from one primary winding to another. C and D – ground and power supply (12 V), respectively.

Location of the ignition module VAZ 2107

The ignition module is located on the front side of the cylinder block above the oil filter. It is secured to a specially designed metal bracket using four screws. It can be identified by the high-voltage wires coming out of the housing.

The ignition module is located on the front of the cylinder block above the oil filter

About the drive mechanism

To transmit torque to the distributor shaft on the “six”, a helical gear is used, rotated by a timing chain (in common parlance – “hog”). Since the element is located horizontally and the distributor roller is vertical, there is an intermediary between them - the so-called fungus with oblique teeth and internal slots. This gear simultaneously turns 2 shafts - the oil pump and the distributor.

The distributor drive consists of two transmission gears with oblique teeth

Both transmission links - the “hog” and the “fungus” - are designed for a long service life and are replaced during engine overhauls. The first part is removed after disassembling the timing chain drive, the second is pulled out through the upper hole in the cylinder block.

The VAZ 2106 distributor, equipped with a contact breaker, is a rather complex unit consisting of many small parts. Hence the unreliability of operation and constant failures of the spark generation system. The non-contact version of the distributor creates problems much less frequently, but in terms of performance characteristics it still falls short of modern ignition modules, which have no moving parts.

When should you turn on the ignition?

The first thing you should know is that there are no regulations for this operation, since the ignition timing is set or adjusted only if necessary. It may be caused by the following reasons:

• You recently purchased a “Seven” on the secondary market and are trying to “bring it to mind.”
• After engine repair, accompanied by its disassembly.
• After unscrewing or removing the main ignition distributor (distributor), regardless of the reason why this was done.
• When switching from high-octane fuel to gasoline with a lower octane number and vice versa.
• After replacing the contact group or bearing in the distributor (in cars with an old ignition system).

Note. On VAZ 2107 vehicles equipped with an electronically controlled injector, the reason for checking the spark generation system may be the flashing of the Check Engine display on the instrument panel. True, it behaves in a similar way when a dozen more malfunctions occur. So ignition problems must first be diagnosed by contacting a service station.

In the vast majority of cases, the sparking moment is set as a result of a violation of the settings after disassembling or repairing the engine. A separate issue is the transition to high-octane gasoline, which requires ignition with greater advance, for which adjustments are being made.

It is advisable to check the timely formation of a discharge on the electrodes of the spark plugs in cases where unstable engine operation is observed, popping noises are heard in the carburetor and exhaust pipe, accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption. If you have not yet discovered the “gluttony” of the car, then pay attention to the color of the smoke; with high gasoline consumption, it is black, as is the carbon deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs.

Types of systems

For decades, until the release of the VAZ 2107 (from 1982 to 2012), it was equipped with three types of ignition systems:

• mechanical with contacts. switches;
• contactless;
• controlled by an electronic unit (ECU).

The note. The first 2 grades were placed on the “seven” of the carburetor, the latter is represented by an injector.

In the mechanical embodiment, the contacts opened by the camshaft cam open the low voltage circuit, initiating the formation of a powerful pulse in the secondary coil winding. This discharge is directed to the fuel spark plug electrodes in the cylinder, where the piston rises to top dead center (TDC) and the compression stroke is completed.

The contactless circuit works on the same principle, only the Hall sensor signals an open circuit, and its switch implements this. Therefore, the ignition settings on the “seven” carburetor are almost identical. One more thing. These are nozzle machines that have a new system that not only has the contacts, but also the distributor and any moving parts. Here, the spark torque is determined by the ECU controller by focusing on the signals from different sensors.

The main components of the distributor and a description of its operation

VAZ classic distributor device

Device

The distributor is assembled in a housing. Inside it, a contact group is mounted on a bearing: moving and fixed contacts or a Hall sensor (for contactless ignition). To correct the advance angle, the vacuum regulator can rotate the contact group at a small angle relative to the housing. The capacitor is attached to the bottom of the case with screws. A drive roller is mounted on bushings in the center of the body. Its bottom has splines with which it engages with the drive gear. In the upper part of the roller there are contact drive cams (for contact ignition) or a steel cup with four slots - a screen (for contactless ignition). At the very top, on a steel platform, two weights and two springs of the centrifugal ignition regulator are installed. A plastic housing with a moving contact and noise suppression resistance of the high voltage distributor (slider) is screwed onto the top with two screws. The entire structure is closed with a lid on two spring latches. The body and cover have a tongue and groove so that they fit together in only one position. The cover contains contact terminals for high voltage wires from the spark plugs and from the ignition coil. The distributor is secured to the engine block using a stud, nut and pressure washer. To adjust the ignition timing, the housing can be rotated relative to the block.

Job

The distributor is connected through the drive to the engine crankshaft and rotates with it. For two full revolutions of the crankshaft, the distributor shaft makes one revolution. This is due to the fact that our engine is four-stroke. When installing the distributor in place, the roller is oriented in strict accordance with the operating order of the engine. This is done so that the contacts open and the spark jumps on the spark plug when the piston of each cylinder, compressing the combustible mixture, does not reach top dead center (TDC) by a few millimeters. This is called ignition advance. When the number of revolutions increases, the distance must be increased, and when it decreases, it must be decreased, which is what the centrifugal regulator does. Its weights, under the influence of centrifugal force, which is greater the higher the engine speed, diverge to the sides and move the cams relative to the roller, making ignition “earlier.” When the engine speed decreases, the springs return the weights to their place and the ignition becomes “later”. This is necessary to increase engine power and efficiency. In addition to the centrifugal one, a vacuum ignition timing regulator is also installed on the distributor. Its function is to fire “earlier” at low throttle opening angles and “later” at sharp throttle opening angles. At idle and at full throttle, the vacuum seal does not work. The regulators are adjusted only at the stands, so there is no need to change the settings yourself.

Preparatory stage

To set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 car, no special conditions are required; the operation can be done both in the garage and on the street, including in winter. For work, prepare the following set of tools:

• flat screwdriver;
• metal probe 0.35 mm thick;
• open-end wrench size 13 mm;
• a car light bulb designed for a voltage of 12 V with wires soldered to it;
• a wrench with a long handle designed to turn the crankshaft;
• key for unscrewing spark plugs.

Ignition tuning tool

Note. Instead of a special key to rotate the crankshaft, you can use a regular open-end wrench measuring 36 mm. If you don’t have such a key, then you will have to set the marks in the old proven way: by engaging 4th gear and raising the rear wheel, turn it manually, thereby turning the crankshaft.

Ideally, it is better to have in your arsenal a device for setting the ignition on a running engine - a strobe light. It is equipped with a lamp that flashes simultaneously with the moment of spark formation in the cylinder, which allows you to see the position of the notch on the crankshaft pulley at idle speed and clearly adjust the advance angle.

This is what a strobe looks like, which is convenient for adjusting ignition timing

Important point. The ignition is set in order to ensure that the spark appears in a timely manner and the engine starts, after which additional adjustments will be required. But the latter will not bring you the desired result when there is no compression in the cylinders or problems with the carburetor make themselves felt. If these faults are not eliminated, the engine operation will remain unstable, no matter how you configure the spark generation system.

Hence the conclusion: you can set the ignition correctly at any time, but to set it well - only on a working engine and carburetor.

Purpose and characteristics

Coil 2111-3705010 is intended for:

• formation of high-voltage pulses;
• distribution of signals between the spark plugs in accordance with the firing order of the cylinders.

Main technical parameters of the unit:

• operating voltage – 12 V;
• current in the primary circuit – 6.4 A;
• voltage in the secondary circuit – 28 kV;
• spark duration – at least 1.5 ms;
• discharge energy – 50 MJ.

Read, it may come in handy: How to check the condition and replace the VAZ-2107 injector speed sensor

Tuning on carburetor modifications of the VAZ 2107

All old textbooks on servicing classic Zhiguli models describe a method for setting the moment of spark formation using a light bulb, although experienced motorists can easily do without it. You will understand why this happens as you read this material, but for beginners it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the old proven technique.

To correctly set the ignition of the “seven”, you need to ensure that the following conditions are met simultaneously:

• the notch on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the long mark on the timing cover;
• in this case, the round mark marked on the camshaft chain drive gear coincides with the boss on its body;
• the piston of the 4th cylinder has completed the compression stroke and is at top dead center;
• the contacts inside the distributor are open;
• The movable contact of the slider faces the fixed contact on the distributor cover, where the wire from the spark plug of the 4th cylinder is connected.

Note. On non-contact systems, at this moment the Hall sensor sends a signal to the switch to break the low voltage electrical circuit, which leads to the appearance of a high voltage pulse on the wire leading to the spark plug of the 4th cylinder.

The diagram shows what happens in the cylinders when the marks are aligned

The light bulb is used to control the ignition timing, for which it must be connected with one wire to the “K” contact of the high-voltage coil, and with the second to the vehicle ground. You should know that at the same moment the piston of the first cylinder is also in the TDC position, only there the air-fuel mixture is not compressed, but exhaust gases are released after its combustion. This is why ignorant car enthusiasts often confuse the first cylinder with the fourth when installing the ignition.

Layout of marks on the timing cover

When the above actions occur simultaneously, a spark discharge occurs on the electrodes of the spark plug of the 4th cylinder, as evidenced by the flash of the connected light bulb. To achieve these conditions and set the ignition correctly, follow the instructions:

The marks must be aligned by turning the crankshaft with a wrench

Note. The instructions imply that before starting work the distributor was removed from the engine without aligning the marks.

The ignition is considered to be set correctly if, after installing the distributor cap and connecting the wires, you manage to start the engine, and then you need to adjust the timing. The non-contact system is installed in the same way, with the exception of checking the gap in the contact group due to its absence.

The mark on the camshaft gear is aligned with the boss on the body

Important point. In most cases, the ignition is set without removing the valve cover, which is why the position of the mark on the gear is not visible. You have done everything according to the instructions, but the engine does not start. This means that a spark is supplied to the 4th cylinder during the exhaust stroke, and compression at this moment occurs in the first cylinder. The problem can be solved simply:

• remove the distributor cover;
• unscrew the nut securing it;
• pull the distributor out of the socket, turn the slider exactly 180° and insert the element back;
• Press the distributor skirt with the nut and install the cover.

Advice. If the engine does not start after these steps, but begins to show signs of life, then the problem lies not in the ignition setting, but in a malfunction of one of the system elements.

Photo instructions for setting up

First of all, the marks on the pulley and timing cover are aligned

The distributor is inserted into the hole so that the slider points to cylinder 4

The distributor skirt is pressed against the block with a 13 mm nut. The gap is checked with a feeler gauge with the contacts open. The gap is corrected by unscrewing the 2 screws securing the contact group.

The light will light up when a spark appears

Instructions for setting the ignition

If you strictly followed the instructions, connected all the wires according to the diagram and did not misalign the marks, then the motor will start without problems. To adjust the ignition, you need to ensure stable engine operation, so first warm it up for a few minutes, without letting it stall by pressing the gas pedal.

Adjustments can be made on a warm engine using two methods:

• without the use of special devices - “by ear”;
• fine adjustment using a strobe light.

A strobe is a device with a light bulb that flashes simultaneously with the transmission of a pulse by the Hall sensor. When the switched on strobe is brought to the crankshaft flywheel with the engine running, the position of the notch becomes visible. Hence the possibility of precise adjustment.

This is what a strobe looks like for fine-tuning the ignition

To set up, connect the strobe power supply to the battery, and the thick wire to the high-voltage wire of the spark plug of the 1st cylinder. Loosen the distributor fastening nut and bring the flashing lamp to the pulley. Slowly turn the distributor body until the notch on the pulley aligns with the short notch, then tighten the nut.

Tuning in the traditional way “by ear” is done like this:

1. Start the engine and loosen the nut holding the ignition distributor.
2. Rotate the distributor smoothly and slowly within 15°. Find the position at which the motor operates most stably.
3. Tighten the fastening nut.

When adjusting, turn the distributor by the membrane body

It is quite natural that after installing a contactless ignition system, the engine idle speed will increase to 1100-1200 rpm due to the increased spark power. Set the rate to 850-900 rpm by tightening the idle screw on the carburetor and using the tachometer as a guide. On VAZ 2105-2107 carburetors of the “Ozone” type, this screw is located in the lower section of the unit on the right side and is large in size. The VAZ 2108 carburetors of the Solex type (these were also installed on the “seven”) have a long plastic handle protruding from the right (in the direction of travel). The second screw, which regulates the composition of the air-fuel mixture, cannot be turned.

The arrow shows the idle speed adjustment screw.

Contactless (electronic) ignition, carburetor

Many car owners are switching to a more accurate (electronic) type of ignition. To adjust the device yourself, you need to have skills in working with the electrical part of a car. If you do not have sufficient knowledge, entrust the work to experienced specialists.

Prepare the instrument for tuning. You will need keys (for “eight”, “ten” and “thirteen”), a Phillips screwdriver, a drill and a pair of self-tapping screws.

Pre-install the contactless system itself, consisting of the following elements:

• Trambler. Start by replacing the distributor by lifting the cover of the latter (this is how you gain access to the “slider”). Place the slider in a position that can be easily adjusted during installation. It is desirable that the notch be on the block opposite the middle mark of the device scale.

  Use a “thirteen” wrench to tighten the fastening nut, and then dismantle the assembly. Now disconnect the central wire connecting the coil and the distributor. Mount the non-contact type sensor and adjust the slider taking into account the previously made mark. Align the distributor body along the notches. Replace the cover and return the wires to their place.

• Coil. In the next step, move on to the ignition coil. Take the eight key and twist the wires that are connected to the device. Now use the key to “ten” to push the assembly away from the car body.

  Install the new coil taking into account the position of contacts “B” and “K”.

  Fix the coil and connect the discarded and new wires to the contact group. Pay attention to the colors of the latter (as a rule, they are identical for the old and new devices). Connect the brown wire to terminal “K” and the blue wire to “B”. Now connect the center wire.

• Switch. Start by choosing a location for this node. In the "seven" the best point for installation is between the headlight on the left side and the washer. In this area there is a flat area on which the device is placed. To begin, lean the switch and mark the mounting locations. After this, screw in the screws. Do not rush to tighten the second fastener - place a black wire under it.

As soon as the described work is completed, check the quality of the connection of the wiring elements and start the engine. The next stage is installing the ignition of the VAZ-2107, which will be discussed below.

Display Guide

So, we figured out where the VAZ module and ignition coil are located and what functions they perform, now let’s talk about setting them up. If the system torque is set incorrectly, this will cause increased gasoline consumption, as well as detonation of the power unit (the “fingers” will start knocking). In general, the operation of the motor will be unstable.

To set up the ignition of a VAZ 2107, you need to perform several steps, all of them are described in detail below:

1. First, you need to correctly adjust the gap that exists between the interrupter device. To do this, you should dismantle its cover in advance and clean the contact surface. At the same stage, it is necessary to check the connection of the contacts - the elements must come into contact over the entire surface, and not just in certain areas. If the contacts are poorly connected, you should try to bend them slightly. You can also try sharpening the plane a little.
2. Having done this, we move on to an important stage. You need to turn the crankshaft until the contacts open as much as possible. Using a feeler gauge, you need to increase the gap to approximately 0.45 mm. It should be noted that during this, the probe between the contacts should move with low resistance.
3. The crankshaft rotates until the “ignition timing” mark marked on the pulley itself. Having done this, a voltmeter should be connected to the terminal of the interrupting mechanism; if it is not there, a regular test light can be used. We are talking directly about the breaker terminal, which is connected to the coil. Using a 13mm wrench, you need to slightly loosen the nut securing the breaker to the BC.
4. After these steps, you need to turn the key in the lock, but do not start the engine; at the same time, the breaker body must be turned counterclockwise. When you notice that the light has gone out, you need to start turning the housing in a different direction until the light comes on again. If the control light is on, this indicates that the moment of spark transmission through the high-voltage wires has been set. Once the torque has been established, the breaker fixing nut should be tightened until it stops.

As for checking, this is easy to do. When the car is traveling at a speed of 40 km/h, you need to press the gas so that the vehicle quickly gains power. During rapid acceleration, a brief detonation should occur until the car can accelerate to 60 km/h. If this is so, then the moment was set correctly and for some time you can forget about this procedure.

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Ignition adjustment in static position:

1. Find a strobe light. If this is not the case, do the work by ear.
2. Loosen the nut holding the ignition coil.
3. Start the engine and warm it up.
4. Rotate the distributor housing left and right.
5. Command your assistant to watch the speed (they should be at 2000 rpm).
6. Listen to the engine noise. Try to catch the moments when there are “dips” or changes in rotation speed.
7. Achieve a situation where the engine runs smoothly and produces the highest speed. In this case, the work should be as rhythmic as possible.
8. Tighten the distributor nut and operate the car.

Setting the ignition timing of the VAZ-2107 in motion:

• Warm up the engine to a temperature of 80-95 degrees Celsius.
• Accelerate to a speed of 40-45 km/h, then move the gearbox selector to the fourth speed position.
• Step on the gas and listen to the engine. If the ignition is set correctly, detonation appears, and after a while the engine speed increases. If you hear a clear knocking of the valves, turn the distributor as the clock hand rotates by about 1-1.5 degrees.
• Perform the manipulations described above until the extraneous sound disappears completely.
• If the speed decreases sharply after pressing the gas, turn the distributor to the same angle, but in the opposite direction.

Remember that adjusting the advance angle may not be enough - often the carburetor itself needs to be adjusted. To do this, find a couple of screws. With one of them you regulate quality, and with the other you regulate quantity. Also clean the carburetor from time to time.

As can be seen from the described technique, setting up electronic ignition on the “seven” is not difficult. At the same time, you can count on serious savings, because at the service station this service will cost a considerable amount.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2107 with an injector?

The ignition system of the “Seven” with direct fuel injection operates under the control of an ECU that receives signals from the following sensors:

• crankshaft position;
• air flow;
• throttle position;
• lambda probe.

Multimeter for checking the ignition module

Based on the readings of these sensors, the controller itself determines the moment of spark formation, so the system is not configured in the usual sense. If any problems occur, the driver can only independently check the functionality of the ignition module, to which the high voltage wires from the cylinders are connected. To do this, you need to take a multimeter (ohmmeter) and perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect all wires from the module.
2. Set the maximum measurement value on the multimeter to 20 kOhm.
3. Measure the resistance between the following pairs of terminals: 1 and 4, 2 and 3.
4. If the measurement results fall outside the range of 3.6-4 kOhm, then the module is faulty and must be replaced.

The seven with an injector has an ignition module, which you can check yourself

Symptoms of a problem

The reel has a reliable design and its service life is significant. And yet this element can also fail.

The main signs that the ignition coil is not working properly are:

• Inability to start the power plant;
• The inscription “Check Engine” appears on the dashboard (on cars with an ECU), and when scanning the system, code P0363 is displayed, indicating a malfunction of the ignition module (on modern injection cars);
• Decrease in power unit performance;
• Misfires, which causes the engine to “trouble” (with time the problem becomes more pronounced);
• Dips when reaching certain crankshaft speeds.

It should be noted that these malfunctions are also typical for other elements of the ignition system, for example spark plugs, so before you “sin” the coil, you should check the entire circuit coming from it.

The principle of operation of the VAZ 2107 injection engine

The injection system's operating methods are fundamentally different from the operating principles of the carburetor system, in which the air-fuel mixture is prepared in the carburetor chamber. In the VAZ 2107 injection engine, the fuel mixture is injected directly into the cylinders. For this, it received the name “distributed injection system”.

Injection systems are characterized by their operating principle and the presence of different numbers of injectors. The “seven” is equipped with a separate injection system with 4 nozzles. That is, injection occurs in each cylinder, which is controlled by a microcontroller of the electronic engine control unit. Using special-purpose sensors, information about the operating mode, gas pedal position and other important parameters is read. Based on this, there is a controlled flow of fuel into the cylinders.

Photo of ECU VAZ 2107

Not only the quantitative proportionality of fuel and air entering the engine combustion chamber, but also control over the creation of a spark on the spark plugs depends on the electronic control unit (ECU).

Fuse and relay diagram 2107

On newer “sevens” a block with 17 fuses and 6 relays is installed. VAZ 2107 fuses on the “new” unit protect the following electrical circuits and devices:

1. Reversing lamps, heater fan, rear window defroster warning lamp and relay, rear wiper motor and rear washer pump.
2. Electric motor for front wipers.
3. Reserve socket.
4. Reserve socket.
5. Power supply for heated rear window.
6. Clock, cigarette lighter, power socket “carrying”.
7. Signal and radiator fan.
8. Turn signal lamps in emergency mode.
9. “Fog lights” and a relay that regulates the voltage of the on-board network.
10. Instrument panel lamps.
11. Brake light bulbs.
12. Right high beam headlight.
13. Left high beam headlight, high beam warning lamp.
14. Side lights (rear right, front left), license plate and engine compartment lighting.
15. Side lights (rear left, front right), glove compartment and cigarette lighter lamps.
16. Low beam (right lamp).
17. Low beam (left lamp).

The block relays perform the following functions:

1. Heated rear window relay.
2. Headlight cleaner and washer relay.
3. Signal relay.
4. Cooling system electric fan relay.
5. High beam relay.
6. Low beam relay.

Disadvantages of injection models of the VAZ 2107 engine

Of course, as usual, in addition to the advantages of the injection “seven”, there are also negative aspects, which consist in the following situations:

• Problematic access to some components due to the location of the engine and other mechanisms under the hood in the same format as in older models. Although at the same time, the system providing fuel injection is reliable and does not require frequent maintenance during operation.

Photo of VAZ 2107 under the hood

• The injection VAZ 2107 is equipped with a catalyst, which is very easy to damage when driving on a bad road with large bumps and obstacles. In such cases, of course, you need to be careful when driving on problematic roads.

Photo of VAZ 2107 catalyst

• The presence of an injection engine increases the requirements for fuel quality, in contrast to the carburetor version. If you use low-quality gasoline, you cannot avoid clogging the fuel system. This leads to unplanned vehicle maintenance.

• If the injection system breaks down, it is not possible to repair it yourself in a garage. Here you only need to contact professionals at a specialized service station.

VAZ 2105 - disassembly and repair of the ignition distributor

September 12, 2013

After the ignition distributor has been removed, you can begin to repair it, the main purpose of which is to disassemble and then replace the failed elements. To repair the distributor on a VAZ 2105 car, prepare a standard set of tools, and then perform the following sequence of actions:

• Wipe the surface of the distributor with a rag to remove dirt.
• Next, we need to knock out the locking sleeve from the oil deflector clutch. To do this, using a mandrel of suitable diameter, knock it out a little, then pick it up with pliers and completely remove it.

• We remove the coupling and the washer located under it from the roller, and then remove the roller itself from the distributor body.
• Now we need to remove the capacitor. To do this, unscrew the screw securing the forked tip of the wire and move it to the side.
• Unscrew the screw securing the condenser clamp to the distributor body and remove it.

• Now we need to remove the vacuum ignition corrector. Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the lock washer from the axle.
• Using a screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the regulator to the distributor body.

• Remove the regulator housing.
• Using a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the contact group, holding the nuts from turning with a 7mm wrench.

• We remove the screws securing the contact group from the housing and remove the tip of the supply wire.
• Unscrew the screws securing the group to the movable plate and remove it from the ignition distributor.

• Now you need to remove the movable plate. First of all, remove the rotor shaft from the housing.
• Unscrew the two screws holding the movable plate. The ground wire tip will be located under one of the screws.
• We remove the movable plate along with the bearing from the housing.

What are the advantages of VAZ 2107 injection models?

• The VAZ 2107 injection engine consumes less fuel. At the same time, it is more powerful than a carburetor engine with the same volume. This is achieved through the optimal formation of the qualitative and quantitative composition of the fuel mixture. Accordingly, the efficiency of an injection engine is higher than that of a carburetor.

• Thanks to electronic speed control, the engine runs more reliably at idle, stalls less when starting, and starts well at low ambient temperatures.

• Compared to a carburetor engine, an injection engine does not require frequent adjustments to the ignition and fuel supply systems.

• The air-fuel mixture that enters the cylinders has the most favorable composition. And the existing catalyst controls the minimum amount of harmful exhaust gases. This plays a big role in preserving the environment and taking care of health.

• There is no need to manually adjust the mechanism, since this is done by the hydraulic chain tensioner and hydraulic valve clearance compensators. They also guarantee less noise (noise insulation) when the engine is running.

• Torque graphics are “smooth”, a larger rpm range allows high torque to be achieved.

WORTH NOTICE! On an engine with an injection system, it is possible to install gas-cylinder equipment not only of the 2nd, but also of the 4th generation. This is a more modern and attractive option, since the installation of the 4th generation of gas equipment provides greater savings and reduces the occurrence of “pops” in the engine to zero.

Causes of clogging of the distributed injection system

One of the faults, a clogged injector, can be repaired with your own hands. The cause of the blockage is the use of low-quality gasoline. The lower the quality of the fuel, the more heavy paraffins it contains. They are deposited on the walls of the fuel system, clog the injector openings, making it difficult to supply fuel.

In addition, paraffins are deposited on the exhaust valves, which leads to their burnout. The engine begins to detonate.

To prevent this from happening, you need to use high-quality gasoline with special additives. But if clogging cannot be avoided, you can wash it yourself using a special flush of injection systems.

To rinse, you must have a syringe and rinsing liquid.

Mix the liquid with gasoline in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the bottle. We fill it into the fuel distribution system through the hose fitting of the vacuum brake booster. First we do this with the engine not running. Then we start it and add the mixture in small portions. This helps break down paraffin deposits. Under the influence of washing, paraffin deposits dissolve, enter the cylinder, burn and come out along with the exhaust gases. In this case, black smoke may come out of the exhaust pipe.

Diagnostics of malfunctions of the ignition module of injection VAZ 2107

The ignition of the injection VAZ 2107 is completely electronic and is considered quite reliable. However, problems can arise with it too. The module plays an important role in this.

Signs of a malfunctioning ignition module

Symptoms of a faulty module include:

• the Check engine warning light on the dashboard lights up;
• floating idle speed;
• engine tripping;
• dips and jerks during acceleration;
• change in sound and color of exhaust;
• increased fuel consumption.

However, these signs can also appear in case of other malfunctions - for example, in case of problems with the fuel system, as well as in case of failure of some sensors (oxygen, mass air flow, detonation, crankshaft position, etc.). If the engine starts to operate incorrectly, the electronic controller puts it into emergency mode, using all available resources. Therefore, when the engine operation changes, fuel consumption increases.

In such cases, you should first of all pay attention to the controller, read information from it and decipher the error code that has occurred. To do this, you will need a special electronic tester, available at almost any service station. If the ignition module fails, error codes in engine operation may be as follows:

• P 3000 - no sparking in the cylinders (for each cylinder the code may look like P 3001, P 3002, P 3003, P 3004);
• P 0351 - break in the winding or windings of the coil responsible for cylinders 1–4;
• P 0352 - a break in the winding or windings of the coil responsible for 2–3 cylinders.

At the same time, the controller can produce similar errors in the event of a malfunction (break, breakdown) of high-voltage wires and spark plugs. Therefore, before diagnosing the module, you should check the high voltage wires and spark plugs.

Main malfunctions of the ignition module

The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 ignition module include:

• a break or short to ground in the wiring coming from the controller;
• lack of contact in the connector;
• short circuit of the device windings to ground;
• break in the module windings.

About their device

Before finding out the importance of the elements of the ignition system in question, it is necessary to understand their structure. Structurally, the high-voltage wire consists of the following parts:

1. A conductor through which current flows.
2. Insulation - rubber or silicone is used as an insulating material.
3. Protective caps on both ends.
4. Metal contacts.

Each element performs corresponding tasks, and at the slightest violation of integrity, it will be necessary to replace it. Armored wires cannot be repaired, since they play one of the main roles in the car’s ignition system, and also belong to the category of consumables.

To distributor or MZ

It is a mistaken belief that armored wires on a car are ordinary wires that are designed to transmit current from a source to a receiver. As you know, VAZ 2107 cars were produced in two variations of the fuel supply system - carburetor and injector. Although many parts and mechanisms on the carburetor and injector are the same, this does not apply to the GDP. The carburetor VVP differs from the injection one on the VAZ 2107 in the following parameters:

1. The length, on which the amount of resistance also depends. The wires on the injection unit are shorter than on the carburetor.
2. Fasteners that connect to the distributor on the carburetor and the ignition module on the injector.
3. The amount of GDP. There are four of them on the injector, and five on the carburetor.
4. Type of caps.

Knowing the design differences, you must also understand that high voltage flows through the wire. The current comes from the distributor or MG through the wires to the spark plugs. The slightest malfunctions lead to the fact that current is not supplied to the spark plug, and a spark does not occur. If a spark does not occur, the cylinder does not work, which negatively affects the operation of the engine.

Possible causes of failure

The weak point of the ignition coils and modules is the secondary winding, which generates a high voltage pulse. A coil break or breakdown may occur in it. The following factors lead to this phenomenon:

• use of low-quality or unsuitable candles;
• operation with non-functioning high voltage wires;
• frequent attempts to check the spark.

The high-voltage pulse arising in the secondary winding must be realized (spent). If this does not happen (if the integrity of a high voltage wire is broken, for example), a high-energy electrical pulse seeks an outlet. He will find it, with a high degree of probability, in the thin secondary winding.

Often, a module malfunction occurs when the integrity of poor-quality factory soldering of wires going to the switch elements is violated. This happens from vibration. Also, the cause of non-working coils can be a banal contact failure in the incoming connector. Another factor leading to a malfunction of the ignition unit is often moisture that gets on the device during washing or driving in unusual conditions.

Checking the ignition module

Checking the ignition module for functionality is carried out in the following ways:

Replacing the ignition module with a known good one

1. The easiest way is to connect a known working module. In this case, the devices must be completely identical, the high-voltage wires are in good condition, and the reliability of the contacts has been checked.

Checking the contacts on the ignition module

2. Moving the module, which allows you to identify unreliable contacts. To do this, move the wire block and the module itself. If during exposure the engine reacts by changing its operation, then the cause of the problem lies in poor contact.

Measuring resistance at the terminals of the ignition module

3. Resistance measurement. To do this, you will need a tester switched to ohmmeter mode. Measurements are carried out on the paired terminals of the module between cylinders 1 and 4, as well as cylinders 2 and 3. The resistance value should be the same and approach 5.4 kOhm.

Checking the ignition module using a tester

4. Check the voltage with a tester. One probe of the device is applied to contact A of the block, the second to ground. After turning on the ignition, take readings from the device. If the wire is in good condition, it will show a voltage of 12 V; if it is missing, check the fuse protecting the ignition module. Then check the continuity of the circuit with a 12 V test lamp. Apply one end of the wire to contact A and rotate the starter. If the lamp does not blink, the circuit is broken. The procedure is repeated in a similar way with other contacts.

Diagnostics of the ignition module with professional equipment

5. Diagnostics at a service station by connecting a computer with special software to the computer. Malfunctions are detected in the form of errors indicated by an alphanumeric code, after which a more in-depth diagnosis of the malfunction is carried out to make a decision - repair the ignition module or replace it. A similar check is carried out at a specialized service station using an oscilloscope.

Product delivery options

Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the delivery method.

Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.

Parcel by Russian Post

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.

Parcel by Russian Post 1st class

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg

Express Parcel EMS

Available payment methods:

• Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
• Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
• Yandex money
• QIWI
• ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.

Ignition module wiring checks

Procedure:

1. Disconnect the block with wires from the ignition module.
2. Turn on the ignition.
3. Using a multimeter in voltmeter mode, check the voltage between terminal 15 and the ground of the block with wires.

The voltage must be at least 12 V. If it is less or absent, the battery is dead or the ECU circuit is faulty.

What to do before setting the ignition

First you need to make sure that:

all spark plugs work, the gaps are adjustable, there is no soot, the top is a spark plug with soot, the bottom is normal.

• clean the coil, distributor cap and distributor contacts from dirt and dust;
• the contact and quality of the wire from the coil are good, the ignition coil is working;
• reinforced wires have good insulation, contact with candles;
• check the distributor contacts to see if they are burnt out. If they are burnt out, they must be replaced;
• Ignition adjustment should be made with the engine fully warmed up.

Removing the ignition module VAZ 2107

1. Remove the air filter housing.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
3. Remove the high-voltage wires from the ignition module cover.
4. Unscrew the three nuts securing the VAZ 2107 ignition module and disconnect it from the bracket.

Before dismantling the ignition module, you don’t have to bother remembering the location of the high-voltage wires. On the body of the device there are numbers indicating the numbers of the cylinders to which each of the terminals of the module should be connected.

Checking the ignition coil

The coil is checked based on two indicators: the presence of a short circuit and an open circuit. Before diagnostics, the ignition coil must be disconnected. After this, one probe of the device is connected to the central contact of the coil, the second to the body (ground). If the display shows resistance equal to infinity, there is no short circuit.

The primary winding of the coil for a break occurs differently. The probes of the device must be connected to the right and left contacts. The resistance between them should be within 3-3.5 Ohms.

If the resistance of the primary winding does not correspond to the norm or there is a short circuit in the coil to the housing, it must be replaced.

Proper short circuit check

First, check the coil winding for short circuits. To do this, you need to connect a multimeter that determines the resistance. Before checking, it is recommended to lubricate the tip of the high-voltage wire with a special lubricant, which can be purchased at any spare parts store for the VAZ 2107, or with technical petroleum jelly.

We disconnect the module from the tips and connect one terminal of the device to the central contact that the coil has, and the other to ground. If the device display shows “infinity”, this means that there is no short circuit - that is, everything is in order. It is worth noting that if, when ringing the circuit, the display indicators did not change (and, for example, the number one was preserved), then this is infinity.

Now let's check the primary ignition circuit for an open circuit.

To do this, you will need to install a multimeter to the left and right contacts, which are responsible for the ignition function. With this installation, the ohmmeter should change its readings. Otherwise, it will be not just the coil that needs to be replaced, but the entire device. Please note that the normal value is 3-3.5 ohms.

Repair

Ignition module VAZ 2107

The design of the ignition module is quite complex: it includes one or more coils, a board, contacts and wires. Of all the above elements, only contact connections can be repaired; in some cases, replacement of parts (transistors, coils) is possible.

The module is dismantled and opened for repair purposes. For this you will need:

1. Socket wrenches with heads 1, 13 and 17.
2. Hexagon 5.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Soldering iron.
5. Flux for aluminum.
6. Stranded wire.
7. Nail polish.

Opening the ignition module

Repair of the ignition module is carried out in the following order:

1. On the removed device, open the case by prying it off with a screwdriver.
2. Remove the silicone film covering the board.
3. All aluminum is removed from the explosive contacts.
4. On the board, new wires are soldered in place of all the dismantled old ones. To do this, the surface of the collector is cleaned of deposits, after which the board is heated to 180°C (a characteristic smell will indicate when the desired temperature has been reached). During the soldering process, the ends of the wires are connected to the module.
5. At the end of the operation, all contacts, the board and the module are covered with nail polish.
6. The device is assembled in the reverse order, installed on the car and the engine is started. In case of normal operation, the ignition module is sealed tightly with sealant, while the wires are tucked inside the cavity so that they are not pinched at the edges by the plate.

If the device does not work, then a breakdown inside the module should be looked for more carefully. The transistor, electronic component may have failed, or there may be a break in the coil. Such a repair makes sense only if its price is significantly lower than the cost of a new part.

The process of replacing spark plugs

Required tools and materials:

• Spark plug head 16 mm;
• Spark plug head 21 mm;
• Candle tube;
• Clean rags.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing spark plugs in a Chevrolet Niva:

1. Open the hood of the vehicle.
2. Remove high voltage wiring. If necessary, take a photo or note the sequence of wire installation.
3. Using a feeler gauge, check the gap between the spark plug electrodes.
4. Check the gap of the new spark plugs.
5. Screw the new parts back in with a torque of 31-39 Nm (the order in which the spark plugs are installed does not matter).
6. Install the ignition wires in the same sequence as removal.

The procedure for replacing spark plugs on a Chevrolet Niva has been completed.

Replacing the ignition module of a VAZ 2107

In case of malfunction, it is better to replace the ignition module with a new one. Repair is possible only if the breakdown is not a break or short circuit of the windings, but a visible violation of any connection. Since all the conductors in the module are aluminum, you will need special solder and flux, as well as certain knowledge from the field of electrical engineering. However, no one can guarantee that the device will work flawlessly. Therefore, it is better to buy a new product that costs about a thousand rubles and be sure that the problem with the ignition module has been solved.

Even an inexperienced car enthusiast can replace the module independently. The only tools you will need is a 5mm hex wrench. The work is performed in the following order:

1. Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Remove the air filter housing, find the ignition module and disconnect the high voltage wires and the wiring harness block from it.
3. Use a 5mm hex to unscrew the four screws securing the module to its bracket and remove the faulty module.
4. We install the new module and secure it with screws. We connect the high-voltage wires and the wire block.
5. We connect the terminal to the battery and start the engine. We look at the instrument panel and listen to the sound of the engine. If the Check engine light goes out and the engine runs stably, everything is done correctly.

Sources

• https://motorltd.ru/sposobyi-samostoyatelnoy-proverki-modulya-zazhiganiya/
• https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/elektrooborudovanie/zazhiganie/zazhiganie-2107/modul-zazhiganiya-vaz-2107-inzhektor.html
• https://hitmind.ru/275-kak-vystavit-zazhiganie-na-vaz-2107-instruktsiya-po-ustanovke-na-karbyuratore-i-inzhektore.html
• https://sis26.ru/ustanovka-zazhiganija-vaz-2107-inzhektor/
• https://mashinapro.ru/1470-zajiganie-vaz2107.html
• https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/elektrooborudovanie/instruktsiya-po-nastroyke-sistemyi-zazhiganiya-vaz-2107-svoimi-rukami.html
• https://VazNeTaz.ru/publ/stati_o_vaz_2101_2115/inzhektornyj-dvigatel-vaz-2107.html
• https://voditelauto.ru/kak-proverit-modul-zagiganiya/
• https://ladafakt.ru/kak-proverit-modul-zazhiganiya-vaz-2107-inzhektor.html
• https://kalina-2.ru/remont-vaz/porjadok-zazhiganija-vaz-2107-inzhektor

Troubleshooting

The first sign of loss of vacuum booster seal is not deterioration of the brakes, as many sources on the Internet describe the malfunction. When air just begins to leak through the leaky membrane, the VUT continues to function properly, since the motor manages to maintain a vacuum in the front chamber. The first symptom is changes in the operation of the engine itself:

• due to air leaks into the third cylinder, the engine begins to “trouble” at idle;
• crankshaft revolutions “float”, the stronger the suction, the greater the amplitude of oscillations;
• a running engine reacts to the brake pedal and stalls when pressed sharply;
• Gasoline consumption increases.

Air leaking into the engine through the VUT causes the third cylinder to turn off - the engine begins to “trouble.”
If the car owner ignores the primary symptoms, the situation gets worse - the pedal becomes harder and requires more physical effort to slow down and stop the car. The car can be used further; a breakdown of the VUT does not lead to a complete failure of the brakes, but it significantly complicates driving, especially if you are not used to it. Emergency braking will become a problem.

How to make sure that the vacuum booster is leaking:

1. Loosen the clamp and remove the vacuum pipe from the fitting on the manifold.
2. Plug the fitting with a tight homemade plug.
3. Start the engine. If the revs level out, the problem clearly lies in the amplifier.
4. Remove the high voltage wire and remove the spark plug for cylinder III. If the VUT fails, the electrodes will be smoked with black soot.

Whenever possible, I use the old “old-fashioned” method - I simply pinch the vacuum hose with pliers while the engine is running. If the third cylinder starts working and idle speed is restored, I proceed to checking the brake booster.

Similarly, the problem can be temporarily fixed while on the road. Disconnect the pipe, plug the fitting and calmly go to the garage or service station - the power unit will operate smoothly, without excessive fuel consumption. But remember, the brake pedal will become hard and stop responding instantly to light pressure.

Additional diagnostic methods:

1. Press the brake 3-4 times and start the engine while holding the pedal. If it does not fail, the valve has probably failed.
2. With the engine not running, disconnect the hose from the fitting, remove the check valve and firmly insert a pre-compressed rubber bulb into the hole. On a sealed amplifier it will retain its shape, on a faulty amplifier it will fill with air.

Using a bulb, you can accurately determine the location of the defect, but the vacuum booster will have to be removed. While pumping air into the chamber, wash the edges of the joints and the stem seal - bubbles will indicate the location of damage.